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Comments
This morning, I discovered the "service engine soon" light is on, and the dash/radio lights don't dim when I turn the lights on.
Nothing on the left side works except the back up light, including the license plate light.
I guess I should have left the brake light out.
Thanks for the help...any more ideas?
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Would you be willing to post back last 6 digits of your VIN (just the last 6) to allow figuring out when your vehicle was built?
I've been thinking of Falken tires as ConsumersUnion felt they were very good (good ride, grip, etc.), but only one dealer in our area carries them, and they're pushing a Falken model that wasn't tested.
Having been burned many times by replacement tires, Loathe am I to put unknown tires on a car any more. The Maxx is the first car I've owned that doesn't have a harsh ride over small bumps, and I'd really like to keep it that way. Tires seem to be a big factor for that.
97 Cavalier. Crappy crude car but BFG Radial TA's were pretty good. Replaced two tires with Hercules, not a bad tire. TA's were still on the back when I got rid of it at 85000 miles.
01 Elantra. Michelin Energies were pure overpriced crap. Wore out at less than 40K miles. Got Uniroyal TigerPaw GT-H's from Wally World. Less than half the price than the Energies and far better tires. Got a bit more than 40K on them.
Interesting to me that 138 hp Elantra required H rated tires and Maxx with 50% more horsepower doesn't require them. I think choice of Michelins is a pure marketing scam. Manufacturers pay $10 for them and figure you'll either rip one of them, or be stupid enough to buy them as a replacement set for $500. But with a lot of dealers once on H rated tires, always on H rated tires.
The Elantra dropped Kumho OEM's when it went "upscale" in 01. Interestingly enough Kumho gets the best bang for the buck ratings on TireRack and would probably be on my short list for replacements on the Maxx.
Those Douglas (Kelly) touring tires @ Wal-Mart have an 80K warranty (think the uniform mileage rating is about 780). I don't have much experience with Goodyear-Kelly, but these look like a lot of tire for the money and interestingly enough I've had good luck with Wally World's tire shops (will probably pay $7 a tire to get lifetime balance and rotation on the Bridgestones). However, the potential for being linked to a truly bad tire that doesn't wear out for 80,000 miles scares me. Wal-Mart says these tires are quiet and they are A-A rated so the traction should be at least as good as the Bridgestones. If they knocked 2 mpg's off my mileage because of rolling resistance I'd be pode however.
http://www.autonet.ca/AutonetStories/Stories.cfm?StoryID=10599
My question and statement is. Has anyone else had this problem, since I mostly drive freeways I thought this was real strange...any way i thought i would pass this on and alert the rest of you using this forum which i think is just great..
TOP TIER Gasoline Retailers:
QuikTrip
Chevron
Conoco
Phillips
76
Shell
Entec Stations
MFA Oil Company
QuikTrip dominates the St. Louis market and seems to control most pricing within the market.
(We've discussed GM recommendations, fuel octane, fuel brand before. He's a big proponent of big name [ Exxon ] and high octane [ 91 or higher ] in all of his vehicles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends.)
No Vallero either, but Vallero processes high sulphur oil and I suspect their gasolines are second or third tier. Chevron's Techtron additive comes in handy when using the lo qual stuff.
Just dropping the pan and changing filter get out less than 2/3 of fluid. I always change out the filter while I'm at it. It is a good way to get synthetic fluid in the trany if your car did not already come with it.
It wouldn't hurt to check with someone who knows your car before doing this, however.
My dealer keeps plugging this, especially now that I've reached 12000 miles on my 04 Maxx LS. It's supposed to be some kind of cleaning process of the fuel injectors and intake; they claim it removes crud that reduces fuel mileage and performance. The price: $89.95. :surprise: Is it worth it, or is this just a high-profit add-on?
In fact, I came across TSB 04-06-04-051A which GM issued Sept 2004. The rest of this post contains the text from this bulletin.
General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools, equipment and programs to support fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance procedure. General Motors does not endorse, support or acknowledge the need for fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance procedure. Fuel injector cleaning is approved only when performed as directed by a published GM driveability or DTC diagnostic service procedure.
Due to variations in fuel quality in different areas of the country, the only preventative maintenance currently endorsed by GM regarding its gasoline engine fuel systems is the addition of GM fuel system treatment, P/N 12345104 added to a tank of fuel at each oil change. Refer to corporate bulletin number 03-06-04-030A for proper cleaning instructions.
IMPORTANT: The addition of GM fuel system treatment should not be necessary for those customers who exclusively use Top Tier Detergent Gasolines only.
"Mr.Goodwrench Transmission Fluid Level Check Service For Your New Malibu - $25"
Or $30, or $50. Who knows how much they would charge to put your idling car on a lift to access that little hole on the transmission to check your hot transmission fluid. Something that you could do yourself if GM hadn't deleted the dipstick. How much did GM save by doing this? If they would have made the dipstick an option I would have bought it.
So, if you want to check for burnt, foaming, or low fluid level, you have to crawl under your car or over your engine to do it.
Or take your car to Mr. Goodwrench. I'm sure he'd be happy to do it for you. $$$$
I found this link which shows where it is: http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations/bl629a-lib.htm
Good luck
1. open glove box
2. empty all contents
3. there are two plastic pegs; one on each side of the lower back side of the box allowing the box to pivot. Squeeze (VERY HARD ) the sides of the lower box inward to allow the pegs to exit the side holes. I wiggle the glove box back and forth violently while pushing in. Don't worry about breaking the the pegs; I have done mine 5 times now, and each time I have to push as hard as I can to get the box to push inward and release the pegs.
4. once inside, you will see the black plastic snap to enter the cabin filter door. Lift the snap upwards
5. slide in your 8 x 10 inch (one inch thick) cardboard high efficience furnace filter cutting.
6. close your glove box (the plastic pegs slide easily back into place)
update: I just put a new one in this week. It still is unbelievably hard to push in on the sides to get the plastic pegs to release from their pivot points. I had a little better luck this time pushing in on the left side (console side) of the glove box first and releasing that peg. Anyway, the car did not come with a cabin air filter; only a slot for one.
Is it just the brake lamps that don't work (turn signal and back-up lights are OK)? There are 2 brake lamps per side - all 4 don't work?
The brake lamp bulbs also act as rear tail lights (they turn on when you turn on parking lights) at a lower intensity. Does that function work or is it also inoperate?
Have you removed the rear lamp assemblies (procedure in owner manual) and checked the bulbs? I think this is a bulb #3057.
Then, to top it all off, when I thoroughly read the owners manual I found that it said except for heavy duty usage (taxi, etc.) which required service at 50,000 miles, the fluid did not require changing!
I come from the old school of preventive maintenance, but with advanced technology and prices to match, I really wonder. I am nervously trusting the engine "oil life" indicator, and changing when it says around 10%. I use Mobile 1 5w-30 synthetic lubricant and a Fram "7,000 mile" filter. Yet, it all seems to be a gamble, with the players being opportunists, new technology, ignorance, experience, high prices, and trust. I don't want to be foolishly cheap, but nothing is really inexpensive anymore. My dealer also told me that my 3.5 engine would cost $6,000.
OK, now before another person on this board tells you what a great idea preventative maintenance is, I'll tell you to simply follow the manufacturer's recommendations which says exactly what you stated above. Please don't waste your money on 30k service. This is simply a way to take money from your wallet. I normally would get the tranny fluid evacuated at the Jiffy Lube for the $79 you quoted. They have the exact same machines as the dealer. I've been going there for years, and they do a great job. I even watch the fluid coming out the hoses and see that they are running clear fluid through the waste line before unhooking my car. The Malibu contains Dexron III, which I believe is a new fluid on the market. You would need to ensure that your technician has that type of fluid. But, if GM says you never need it done, yet you still want it done, and do not tow or drive in the mountains all the time, I'd shoot for 70k to have it done.
As for the oil, I use the same oil. I change mine every 6k myself. I think your 7k is just fine since you obviously are doing a lot of highway mileage to get to 30k so fast. I do recommend using the high end Frame XG filter and not the ordinary Fram.
While there is nothing wrong with having your car inspected at 30k, have your trusty mechanic do it, not the dealer. Seeing that you put that many miles on in such a short time, I seriously doubt you have cause for concern. Save your $400 and buy me lunch.
well stated...Im about to turn 46k on my Maxx...04LT as you remember....and no problems as all...Im over to syth oil now...running and changing every 6K or so...usually the GMOL is at 40% by the time I get it changed..seems to go 10% for every 1000 miles or so of driving.....Im averaging 750-1000 miles a week with a new commute....but that will go down to 35 miles..come 1 Oct...but been doing this one since July..coupled with 4 trips so far to SC and back this fall for football....Im very happy with this car...no problems....over 30K on the new tires and no sign of real wear, gas mileage down a little...but suspect that is the 17inch rims and larger profile tires...getting about 28-30 on the interstate and 24-26 around town..but happy with those numbers....all in all..very satisfied with my Maxx....and I agree..just followed the maintenance schedule in the owners manual....and find a good mechanic you trust after that 36K mark.....
I have an 04 Maxx which I bought new and intend to keep forever. I am contemplating flushing the trany oil, even though the car has less than 13,000 miles, to get the clutch fibers and machining residue out of the system. I would flush it for sure if it did not come with synthetic trany fluid.