yeah, the oil life monitor is very close to zero when I do my 6,000 mile Mobil 1 changes.
As for your ramps, don't get any!! The Maxx has plenty of room to crawl under to get both the oil plug and filter. I use a long plastic oil catcher that I bought at Walmart; it allow me to drain the pan and filter at the same time. Please don't waste your money on ramps or jacks.
True, you can probably do the oil change without raising the car at all, but it's easier to do with ramps, especially the first time when a person may not know where everything is. I have a pretty hard time sliding under the front spoiler on the Maxx without ramps; maybe I just need to go on a diet.
Thank you for the help. I'm in my 60's so I will look for a set of ramps that will work with my MAXX. Just a lot easier and more comfortable, and I still know the job will be done right. Peter
Brake lights weren't working on either side (just the center light), but found that the parking lights work on the passenger side. Checked brake fuses, no problem. Disassembled the rear light assembly, two bad bulbs in the left one, two good ones in the right one. Tried the good bulbs in the left assembly, no luck for parking or brake. Before I did all this the backing and blinker worked on the left, now they don't. Will check the swith on the brake pedal tonight, but still need to get the blinker and backing lights working.
If your center high-mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) works then the problem with the brake lights likely isn't with the stop lamp switch because that switch feeds all those lamps.
Do the turn and back-up lamps work on the right side (just the brake lamp didn't work)? You might want to try just temporarily plugging right lamp into left connector and visa versa and see what problems move with the lamp assembly. The turn and back-up functions will be reversed but you can still check all functions.
You're right, the brake switch works just fine, a bit of a pain to get to though.
Yes,the turn and back-up lamps work on the right side, and now the brake lamp does as well, and I don't know why that works now. I noticed that the licence plate lamp wiring runs right along with the driver-side tail lamp wiring, and the licence plate bulb does not work either. Does that provide more of a clue? Could it be something to do with where the wiring comes out the back of the fuse panel?
I will switch the assemblies this evening and see what that shows. I thought of doing that, but wasn't sure if they were interchangable like that.
OK - did you say that the tail lamps on right side are working now also?? Basically the problem is only with the left lamp (where nothing is working) and the licence lamp?
The stop lamp on right side may have started working again because you played with the bulbs.
just replaced the original bridgestone tires with new michelin x radial dt tires from sams club and what an improvement in noise,cornering,braking,etc. sams club has discounted the tire p215/60r16 to $83.00 per tire
Can some one tell me the tire pressure front and rear for the bridgestone tires on a 2005 Maxx? I purchased my car used but the tire label was removed. Thanks.
Although 30 lb. is not Ford Explorer dangerously low, IMHO American car manufacturers still like to recommend low tire pressures to give a smooth ride. I've raised mine to 36 lb., handling hasn't suffered and mileage of both car and tires should improve.
I put a 2x4 under the front tires and have plenty of room to change oil. It is the easiest car I've ever owned for changing oil. I use synthetic, either the extended Mobil 1 or the new extended Amsoil. Amsoil has a new nano fiber oil filter which is far more effecient than any other it has produced, both for capacity of holding dirt and for filtering out small particles. Most damage is caused by particles smaller than the vast majority of oil filters can remove (I believe between 5-12 microns). Amsoil claims it can filter down to 1 micron, far exceeding any other filter on the market that sells for less than 30 bucks (the new Amsoil filter costs around 17 including shipping). Its a lot of money compared to most filters but a clean running engine is an efficient running engine especially with modern sensors that once fouled by burning oil will lead to poor gas mileage and performance. No I am not an Amsoil dealer nor do I intend to become one. I run my cars till they drop, so the extra money up front is more easily justified.
You should never change you oil while on jackstands. Oil changes should be done with the car on a level surface. If you have to lift it, drive it onto 4 sets of double stacked and screwed 2x6's, and be sure to set the parking brake, or chock the tires. Home oil changes are a pain. It is worth the money to just have it done. Too many people don't recycle the old oil responsibly anyway...
I don't have a Malibu, but I do have a GM with the ubiquitous 2.2L Ecotec that is in most Malibus. I use 5w-30 oil, changes every 4mos/4k miles. At that interval, the used oil is thin as water. I wonder if perhaps I should change it more often.....on the other hand, for a small engine, its crankcase takes 5 quarts, which is nice insurance. More oil in the crankcase means better lubing......the oil filter is a marvel of engineering. No more greasy spin-on filters!!
To each their own. It may be a pain for most to do their own oil, but there's those of us that have several drivers and vehicles in the household so there is an economy of scale. But that's not to say you should or should not change your own - that's your choice.
The oil drain on the new Malibu is at the lowest point in the back of the pan so why would it be important to drain the oil whilst the car is level? Raising the front 4-5 inches to gain access is not going to make a difference on what drains out anyway. I do run mine up on a set of homemade ramps but wouldn't have a problem with a car on jackstands. I've been wrenching on these mobiles for 35 years including complete engine teardowns and rebuilds, just to set the record.
It is much more convienent to have an oil change outfit do it for you, it is cleaner, etc but I got tired of telling the gizmos that I didn't want anything more than an oil change and lube. I quit OilCanHenrys when they quit using Valvoline. The other reason I quit going to those places? If they fergit fill your crankcase and you drive away, you are responsible for the damage to the engine. YOU are, not them. If I'm the responsible party, then I'll be the one to put oil in my engine. The aforementioned outfit underfilled my auto tranny once, the ol' pontiac was never quite the same after that.
I drain my filters and recycle them, the oil, every drop, goes to the recycling center. I know of no one these days that doesn't recycle their used oil. My pops used to pour it along the fence lines to kill the weeds and grass, I use 2-4d to do the same thing.
In general, it is considered a bad pratice to use ramps when changing oil, and frankly, unless you are driving a slammed low rider, it is not necessary.
My Dad did the same weed control with his old oil... but became more enlightened in his latter years. As for people recycling, many people still dump it on the ground for "dust control" and many others abandon it in milk jugs in retail dumpsters... or leave it with the old refrigerators and tires along the road at clandestine dump sites... aka: dead end dirt roads.
As for the retail oil change... my place delivers the dip stick to my door and shows me the full level. If they did not, I'd ask for them to do so. I changed my own oil from 1974 to 1999. My time is too valuable to step back into changing my own oil. Its just not worth the trouble.
I don't agree about the ramps as being a bad practice. I've changed may oil for twenty years using ramps with no mishaps. I always block the the tires before getting under my vehicle i don't know if you due.
This is how I spotted the two oil leaks on my o5 malibu so GM could fix them before they became a large problem. It's preventive maintenance.
Are you getting a lot of heat out of the heater after running it for a period of time? Then it's not the thermostat. I have thrice had a problem over the last two years where I've run my '04 Maxx for awhile, say a half hour up to 4 hours, then stopped for a half hour or so, then upon starting out again, the temp gauge sits on the C mark while the engine idles fast 'cause the computer thinks the engine is cold. To get it to return to normal operation, I have to let the car cool down overnight, then it's ok.
In your case, if you are getting good heat from the heater, it sounds like the temp sender is bad or the wiring/connections between it and the BCM.
I took mine to the dealer just before the warrenty expired complaining of this and a couple other issues, so they have it in writing it was an issue within the warrenty period. When it happens again, I'll run it into the dealer and make 'em fix it on their dime. If you are still within your warrenty period, then make the dealer fix it. Otherwise, I'd start with the temp sender.
Thanks for the info. I had some heat, but not intense heat...enough to tell that when I went between cold and hot I could feel the difference....not a huge difference...but some. This morning the gauge went back to normal and at lunch it was @ normal as well. I have 52000 miles on the car, so its out of warranty (rats!!). Thanks again!
It is not about mishaps. Its about not getting all the oil out. On the Maxx it is not a big issue, but on some cars you can leave behind quite a bit of old oil.
Possible a half to one liter could be left behind if you have a overhead cam engines, which the 3.5 liter engine isn't. Cars like the honda, toyota, nissan that use overhead cam engines will hold alot more oil in the mechanical parts of the heads. Twice as many valves,rockers and cams, will trap all of oil. :surprise: At these lube shops, how long do they wait after the engine is stopped before draining the oil. Five or ten minutes? I bet you they don't, time is money for them. If they don't allow enough time(Ten minutes) for all of the oil to drain out of the engine you will have left over oil!! Problem.......yes. I allow Fifteen minutes for as much oil as possible to empty from all of my vehicles.
my wife has a 2002 malibu ls with 28,000 miles on it which we purchased brand new. she basically drives it to work and back and to go shopping. she changes the oil every 3k miles, always checks tire pressure, she changed her brakes in the front for the 1st time 2 months ago.
since the owners manual doesn't really specify this we are a bit confused. how often should she flush the radiator? we have not done it once since she owned it in 4 years.
also, what other recommended maintenance chould she be doing? did i miss anything?
Well to keep it up to par I would change the coolant now. Replace the transmission fluid and filter, NO FLUSH, most likely it would cause problems, just pan drop and filter change. Don’t let anyone talk you in to a transmission flush. This would be a good time to replace the fuel filter. These recommendations are what I do with my vehicles, they go trouble free on the big stuff, engine, transmission.
I am the original owner of a '99 'bu LS with 60K miles. Have been generally satisfied with the my car with the primarily problems: warped rotors (replaced under warranty), intake manifold gasket work, and alternator replacement. Oh, and the A/C control problem often noted on this board.
Here's my current problem:
I just recently had my radiator flushed. To be honest, I went over the 5 year limit by two years. My local Chevy dealer did the flush. Now 4 weeks later, the car is consistantly running hot (the temp needle crosses the half way mark - which is has never done before) and I have had to add coolant several times - once the light indicator for adding coolant came on. Thoughts on possible problems or other indicators I need to look at????
I had the much noted intake manifold gasket work done several years ago and there is no evidence of antifreeze in the oil but am not sure if this is the only indicator of this problem.
Look for sighns of leakage around the water punp and hoses, also put your heater on full blast set to high, see if it smells of coolant, that would be a bad heater core. Keep your eye closely on the dip stick and check the radatior for any signs of contaimination. How many miles on the engine?? Most water pumps fail around the 90-125K range. Hope this helps..
Thanks! I need to look for leakage but have noticed the "cap" of the cooling resevoir always seems to be brown and has a abnormal look when I add the additional coolant. Will try the other suggestions you offer and see what's going on.
There is quite a bit leakage occuring underneath the car. I just had a radiator flush 3-4 weeks ago. Is it ever possible they did not properly do this? My local Chevy dealer.
You can check the radaitor petcock ( drain valve) to make sure it's tight. It's located on the bottom of the radaitor. What is the milage of this car???
Car Profile: I am the original owner of a 99 Malibu LS with 59K miles.
Reported coolant leak in thread above. Took into my dealership this week and said they conducted a pressure test and discovered a leaking intake manifold!! I had this *same* repair done at 36K miles over 2 years ago at a local garage in my town!! My dealership quoted me $750 to fix it.
I declined the service at my dealership and have made my appointment with the local garage who did the work two years ago for them to take a look at it this Tuesday. A quick Google search tells me this problem can be reoccuring in the Malibu. If anyone has any thoughts or questions I should ask my garage let me know.
Also, I am a bit paranoid given the age of my car and mileage if one should be "proactive" and get the water pump replaced now. Any thoughts on this are welcome.
From what I have read concerning the leaking intake gaskets a newer designs gasket has been developed by Fel-pro that solves the problem. As for the water pump I've never seen one last past 125K. In most FWD OHC engines a lot of people would have it changed with the timeing belt since the water pump ran off the timeing belt and you allready had access to it. I haven't worked on the 3.1 V6 (mine is a '05 3.5) so I can't say if it's the same situation or not, the 3.1 and the 3.5 are pushrod engines and dont have a timeing belt. Maybe someone who has worked on one could be of more advise here...
Saw my local garage today. A local mom and pop I trust though usually you need to plan on several days before getting your car back. They thought the dealership was wrong per problem noted in thread above. Chevy dealership said I had a leaking gasket. They believe the cap to the coolant reservoir was defective (the plastic ring around it was broken) and not properly holding pressure for the cooling system. Total cost $13. How about that?
i bought my 2002 malibu brand new and it has 30,000 miles on it. last week i went out of my driveway in reverse into about 7-10 inches of snow at the end of my driveway. since then i am noticing a different sound coming from either my exhaust system and my converter. i looked underneath and the catalytic converter is rusted. no smoke is coming out from anywhere but my car has a unusually lower rumble sound than normal. any idea if i am right on this and how much does it cost to change a catalytic converter.
The wifes 2004 LS V-6 3.5 has 65,700 and has averaged 27.506 MPG. This car has once per year oil changes mileage is 20~25K per year Oil Change # 1 @ 3840 Miles Oil Change # 2 @ 28,099 miles Oil Change # 3 @ 46,938 miles Oil Change # 4 @ 59,661 Miles
this is not my first car to have extended drains. I also have a Ford Diesel with over 200K with 2 oil changes but it has a BY PASS oil filter system. With the an oil designed for extended drains no problems
I have been using AMSOIL for many years. It is in all mygas/diesel engines. The old saying " This is not my first rodeo" Have been doing extended drains since 1982 when I started to go 7500 miles.
he, he...you probably suffered from a traumatic experience at one of those "lube" places. Their shoddy workmanship is enough to swear anyone off oil changes. I change my Maxx every 6k with Mobil 1. While I recognize this may be overkill, the Maxx is so easy to change, I'm done in 15 minutes. I use the 6k interval as an excuse to crawl under my car and look for problems. My mechanic has always marvelled how I catch mechanical problems way before a part could ever break down. Essentially, I'm doing a visual inspection of the whole car each time I change my oil. Hopefully before I get too old, we'll be done with oil, and I won't have to worry about fluid changes.
Well I guess there's the question of what one CAN do as opposed to what one SHOULD do....it would make me nervous to push beyond 15K oil changes even with synthetic. Maybe on older cars or less valuable ones this is a risk worth taking but with an engine worth $15,000 I haven't got the guts. :P
Perhaps will periodic oil analysis I'd be more comfortable doing what you are doing. But for the average bear, they might not be as conscientious as you are.
I am a original owner of a 1999 Malibu LS. Despite bad reviews - this car has done well for me and only has 60K miles. A few service questions:
1. I still have the original spark plugs in the car! I never have had a tune-up. I am curious if postponing this has done any damage or costing me gas mileage? Of course, when I bought the car they said 100,000 before first tune-up but it has been almost 8 years.
2. I have never done a transmission service. What is the normal timeframe for conducting these?
3. Given the age of the car and mileage what major repairs should I be prepared for? I have already done the intake manifold gasket repair several years ago and the well-documented A/C problem repaired.
I own an '04 Maxx, essentially a different car, so I'll pass on this. I would wonder how hard the plugs would be to get out, however--but 12K a year would get you under the GM service so I guess things should work.
Last summer with our '04 3.5 v6, water temp ran high except at highway speeds. This may with 35k on the odometer, dexcool a little low, talked a little firmer this time and didn't want the ok no problem answer. New intake manifold gasket, new dino oil (immediately replaced with m1 and a new undented filter) and new water pump. Now good as it was new. Even with ethanol, gets 23+ around town and 35+ on the road(last weekend with 5k on the oil), keeping up with the flow. Still a darn fine vehicle and still too often chirps the kumho replacement handling tires.
I bought vehicle use when I open the hood I notice the coolant jug lack coolant, I drove for two hrs and at the begining when I stop for long periods the temp gauge goes past the half mark and when the car runs it goes back down to half mark and never goes up to the red zone only almost to three quarter on the temp gauge when stop then goes back is this functioning correct. I check the jug next morning and is at the right amt cold indicator line I use the correct coolant do I need to change thermostat or flush. thankyou.
Well I've read and read. Searched and searched and yet to find an answer, so I'll ask and maybe someone will give it up or point me in the right direction. Just purchased an 08 Malibu with the 2.4 four cylinder engine. Have yet to change oil in it but just purchased a new filter for when it's time. Though I have brief knowledge of some older 4 cylinder GM engines I knew of one that the filter is in the oil pan. After purchasing the new filter for my Malibu I suspect that this engine also has the filter in the oil pan since it is not the typical spin on type filter. Am I correct? No to question number 2. If this is the case with the filter in the pan do you loose all the oil from the pan when you drop the filter? :confuse:
Comments
As for your ramps, don't get any!! The Maxx has plenty of room to crawl under to get both the oil plug and filter. I use a long plastic oil catcher that I bought at Walmart; it allow me to drain the pan and filter at the same time. Please don't waste your money on ramps or jacks.
Do the turn and back-up lamps work on the right side (just the brake lamp didn't work)? You might want to try just temporarily plugging right lamp into left connector and visa versa and see what problems move with the lamp assembly. The turn and back-up functions will be reversed but you can still check all functions.
Yes,the turn and back-up lamps work on the right side, and now the brake lamp does as well, and I don't know why that works now. I noticed that the licence plate lamp wiring runs right along with the driver-side tail lamp wiring, and the licence plate bulb does not work either. Does that provide more of a clue? Could it be something to do with where the wiring comes out the back of the fuse panel?
I will switch the assemblies this evening and see what that shows. I thought of doing that, but wasn't sure if they were interchangable like that.
Thanks for the tips.
The stop lamp on right side may have started working again because you played with the bulbs.
Thanks.
Its a lot of money compared to most filters but a clean running engine is an efficient running engine especially with modern sensors that once fouled by burning oil will lead to poor gas mileage and performance.
No I am not an Amsoil dealer nor do I intend to become one.
I run my cars till they drop, so the extra money up front is more easily justified.
I dont seem to see any, anywhere.
Brake job: if it included new rotors as well as pads, it is in the range.
Suspension job: Looks a bit high but I am not sure what exactly was done.
The oil drain on the new Malibu is at the lowest point in the back of the pan so why would it be important to drain the oil whilst the car is level? Raising the front 4-5 inches to gain access is not going to make a difference on what drains out anyway. I do run mine up on a set of homemade ramps but wouldn't have a problem with a car on jackstands. I've been wrenching on these mobiles for 35 years including complete engine teardowns and rebuilds, just to set the record.
It is much more convienent to have an oil change outfit do it for you, it is cleaner, etc but I got tired of telling the gizmos that I didn't want anything more than an oil change and lube. I quit OilCanHenrys when they quit using Valvoline. The other reason I quit going to those places? If they fergit fill your crankcase and you drive away, you are responsible for the damage to the engine. YOU are, not them. If I'm the responsible party, then I'll be the one to put oil in my engine. The aforementioned outfit underfilled my auto tranny once, the ol' pontiac was never quite the same after that.
I drain my filters and recycle them, the oil, every drop, goes to the recycling center. I know of no one these days that doesn't recycle their used oil. My pops used to pour it along the fence lines to kill the weeds and grass, I use 2-4d to do the same thing.
Again - To each their own.
--BruceMc, '04Maxx...
My Dad did the same weed control with his old oil... but became more enlightened in his latter years. As for people recycling, many people still dump it on the ground for "dust control" and many others abandon it in milk jugs in retail dumpsters... or leave it with the old refrigerators and tires along the road at clandestine dump sites... aka: dead end dirt roads.
As for the retail oil change... my place delivers the dip stick to my door and shows me the full level. If they did not, I'd ask for them to do so. I changed my own oil from 1974 to 1999. My time is too valuable to step back into changing my own oil. Its just not worth the trouble.
This is how I spotted the two oil leaks on my o5 malibu so GM could fix them before they became a large problem. It's preventive maintenance.
Thanks!
In your case, if you are getting good heat from the heater, it sounds like the temp sender is bad or the wiring/connections between it and the BCM.
I took mine to the dealer just before the warrenty expired complaining of this and a couple other issues, so they have it in writing it was an issue within the warrenty period. When it happens again, I'll run it into the dealer and make 'em fix it on their dime. If you are still within your warrenty period, then make the dealer fix it. Otherwise, I'd start with the temp sender.
Good luck; let us know what you find.
--BruceM; 04Maxx
Cars like the honda, toyota, nissan that use overhead cam engines will hold alot more oil in the mechanical parts of the heads. Twice as many valves,rockers and cams, will trap all of oil. :surprise:
At these lube shops, how long do they wait after the engine is stopped before draining the oil. Five or ten minutes? I bet you they don't, time is money for them. If they don't allow enough time(Ten minutes) for all of the oil to drain out of the engine you will have left over oil!! Problem.......yes.
I allow Fifteen minutes for as much oil as possible to empty from all of my vehicles.
my wife has a 2002 malibu ls with 28,000 miles on it which we purchased brand new. she basically drives it to work and back and to go shopping. she changes the oil every 3k miles, always checks tire pressure, she changed her brakes in the front for the 1st time 2 months ago.
since the owners manual doesn't really specify this we are a bit confused. how often should she flush the radiator? we have not done it once since she owned it in 4 years.
also, what other recommended maintenance chould she be doing? did i miss anything?
These recommendations are what I do with my vehicles, they go trouble free on the big stuff, engine, transmission.
Here's my current problem:
I just recently had my radiator flushed. To be honest, I went over the 5 year limit by two years. My local Chevy dealer did the flush. Now 4 weeks later, the car is consistantly running hot (the temp needle crosses the half way mark - which is has never done before) and I have had to add coolant several times - once the light indicator for adding coolant came on. Thoughts on possible problems or other indicators I need to look at????
I had the much noted intake manifold gasket work done several years ago and there is no evidence of antifreeze in the oil but am not sure if this is the only indicator of this problem.
Thank you in advance for any advice!!
Magnus
also put your heater on full blast set to high, see if it smells of coolant, that would be a bad heater core. Keep your
eye closely on the dip stick and check the radatior for any
signs of contaimination. How many miles on the engine?? Most
water pumps fail around the 90-125K range. Hope this helps..
Magnus
Thanks, Magnus
sure it's tight. It's located on the bottom of the radaitor.
What is the milage of this car???
Reported coolant leak in thread above. Took into my dealership this week and said they conducted a pressure test and discovered a leaking intake manifold!! I had this *same* repair done at 36K miles over 2 years ago at a local garage in my town!! My dealership quoted me $750 to fix it.
I declined the service at my dealership and have made my appointment with the local garage who did the work two years ago for them to take a look at it this Tuesday. A quick Google search tells me this problem can be reoccuring in the Malibu. If anyone has any thoughts or questions I should ask my garage let me know.
Also, I am a bit paranoid given the age of my car and mileage if one should be "proactive" and get the water pump replaced now. Any thoughts on this are welcome.
Thank you in advance, Magnus
a newer designs gasket has been developed by Fel-pro that
solves the problem. As for the water pump I've never seen
one last past 125K. In most FWD OHC engines a lot of people
would have it changed with the timeing belt since the water
pump ran off the timeing belt and you allready had access
to it. I haven't worked on the 3.1 V6 (mine is a '05 3.5)
so I can't say if it's the same situation or not, the 3.1 and
the 3.5 are pushrod engines and dont have a timeing belt.
Maybe someone who has worked on one could be of more advise
here...
Magnus
i bought my 2002 malibu brand new and it has 30,000 miles on it. last week i went out of my driveway in reverse into about 7-10 inches of snow at the end of my driveway. since then i am noticing a different sound coming from either my exhaust system and my converter. i looked underneath and the catalytic converter is rusted. no smoke is coming out from anywhere but my car has a unusually lower rumble sound than normal.
any idea if i am right on this and how much does it cost to change a catalytic converter.
Oil Change # 1 @ 3840 Miles
Oil Change # 2 @ 28,099 miles
Oil Change # 3 @ 46,938 miles
Oil Change # 4 @ 59,661 Miles
this is not my first car to have extended drains. I also have a Ford Diesel with over 200K with 2 oil changes but it has a BY PASS oil filter system. With the an oil designed for extended drains no problems
Ken
Visiting Host
The old saying " This is not my first rodeo" Have been doing extended drains since 1982 when I started to go 7500 miles.
Perhaps will periodic oil analysis I'd be more comfortable doing what you are doing. But for the average bear, they might not be as conscientious as you are.
1. I still have the original spark plugs in the car! I never have had a tune-up. I am curious if postponing this has done any damage or costing me gas mileage? Of course, when I bought the car they said 100,000 before first tune-up but it has been almost 8 years.
2. I have never done a transmission service. What is the normal timeframe for conducting these?
3. Given the age of the car and mileage what major repairs should I be prepared for? I have already done the intake manifold gasket repair several years ago and the well-documented A/C problem repaired.
Any feedback or thoughts are welcome!!!
Magnus