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Comments
Interesting idea.
Cars are bought routinely in Ontario by Quebec drivers and vice versa here in the national capital area. And you're right, plates can be arranged although in the case of Alberta-Ontario that may be a special case. If I were you I would pose these questions to a friendly assistant in the Department of Motor Vehicles in the government of Ontario. You would be getting reliable information and maybe some tips on how to protect yourself in case of problems away from home.
I doubt it will go over well. Doing anything to evade Ontario's structures/tax systems isn't exactly a promoted activity.. even though, in my case, it actually would make things easier for me to take the cross-country tour I've been struggling to make possible. I'd be just as willing to buy in BC or Sask, but if the opportunity is there, it would make the most sense to buy in AB. Do you think if I phrase the question "buy in AB *or* BC" they might be more amenable to helping me arrange it, than if I phrase it like I'm just trying to beat the system?
Yes! Your question must have been asked many times, so it may all be routine for that helpful assistant at the other end of the phone line. You may even want to have a checklist of questions so that you cover everything. For example, are there different standards between provinces related to air pollution equipment. Some Canadians buying cars from the US only realize there is a difference in the EPA standards when they have to go through the mandatory government Drive Clean test and fail because of model differences; that will likely not apply between provinces. Getting these types of details from the source before you trek out is smart.
Another point you may want to consider is financing. I suppose if you're credit worthy in one province, it would probably apply elsewhere. But, because of the amounts involved there may be some "special" check required by the dealership to ensure that everything is legitimate.
Did you say you were planning to visit friends out west? If so, why not get one to ask an AB dealer what would the dealer require? (You can do this in reverse and ask a dealer in ON what they would require for a sale from out of province). This way you've covered the possibilites from both sides before you head out for the "deal of a lifetime" (sorry I could not resist).
Maybe others in the forum have some additional ideas or experience.
All the best!
I'm still thinking about it, though, if I can manage to take that cross-country trip... if anyone else has any experience buying out of province, I'd still love to hear.
Just wanted to know if the 4AT with manual control is worth the extra bucks? I know it is mostly for convenience and to help AT drivers feel more in control, but I've also been told that the 5MT is one of the M3's strong, fun points. Does driving the AT in manual mode increase fuel economy? I don't know much about "manumatics" so please forgive the newbie in me.
Also, any owner's having trouble with their moonroofs? Another option I'm pondering...
This is a great forum guys and gals. Keep posting!
Mr Mech
Mazda 3 GT Sedan (automatic)
6500 down
Financing over 5 yrs @ 3.9%
Monthly: 370.71
I agree that people should learn how to practice using the ABS on their vehicles before they get into a critical situation. A few minutes in an empty lot is all the practice required. Moreover, newer drivers will not have to "unlearn" how to brake the non-ABS way. Finally, since dangerous situations do not happen only during the four months of winter, proper use of ABS increases your chances of getting out of a tight spot most times. In my experience my ABS have paid for themselves.
I'm in the process of getting a new car and have been thinking of getting a Mazda 3. Could you please tell me where you got this quote from??
Cheers!
Mazda 3 GT Sedan (automatic)
C$6500 down
C$370.71 x 60 (5 yrs 3.9%)
Total : C$28742
On the face of it, this is not an exceptional deal for a 3 GT Sedan (automatic) .
After discount and all that jazz, the total "out the door" is $26, 980 on the 2005, Titanium GT with Automatic Trans. This includes everything (incl extended warranty and a life insurance plan that I am going to opt out of when I pick it up.. this will lower the price some more). A little better than the 28, 742 quoted above but still not one of the best deals I've heard of. I did shop the price for a while but that got old so I just took the 26, 980. I feel pretty good about it... what do you think
Sounds okay.
No AC, no leather, no moonroof, right?
An extended warranty for a Honda, Mazda or Toyota product seems a waste to me unless you have a special case (such as, planning to drive far in excess of average yearly mileage, i.e. over 20K km/year). Mazda provides Life insurance? I'd drop both of these to get the price down.
If you add OTD purchase price + financing charges, you'll get the real cost to you. You mentioned 5 years at 3.9% with C$6500 down. If you financed about $20,000 at 3.9% for 5 years (60 months) this would work out to over C$2000. If you add that to the C$27K, the real price exceeds C$29K. In general, I find Mazda's finance rates are much better than those offered by Toyota and Honda.
After all this, it's a great car, enjoy!
Not sure about Mazda - but most car companies will let you buy the extended warranty as long as the regular warranty is still in force.
If this is the case - and I really really wanted an extended warranty - I would wait until month 45 / 45K miles before I bought it. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
There is 2 year 0% financing available - i told the dealer I wanted a discount in lieu of the 0% as I can pay cash. He's offered $1000 discount.
Anyone know how this compares to recent incentives/negotiations readers have seen? I live in the Vancouver area.
Much better deal! I agree with you about not opting for the GFX (the 17" tires mean you'll have to pay more when you have to replace them and the 16" tires look great already).
My brother bought his Camry with an extended warranty for the same reason, he used it once in 5 years and was glad he had it. Peace of mind is personal so it makes sense if it makes you feel better.
p.s. I predict a great summer ahead for you!
Incentives for the country and regionally are posted on mazda.ca.
Sounds fair to me. Ensure the discount is applied before calculating taxes.
Ask the salesperson about service and let him/her know that you would appreciate a few free ones (my first one was free, some have received much better).
Don't forget air and gas taxes. Watch out for exhorbitant admin fees and other add-ons.
p.s. if I was buying a car this year, this would be my choice! Best of luck with the deal!
Now, let someone who's had some EXPERIENCE with multiple Mazdas, Mazda North America and these warranties shed some positive light on the subject for a change -- and tell you why, if it is an EasyCare warranty, it's a very nice little pet to have.
About three months ago, with 85,000 miles on my otherwise flawless 2000 Protege ES, I developed the familiar front-end "clunking" noise that comes from worn-out tie-rod bushings or bad CV joints. Turns out it was the bushings and a small arm that connects them to the steering linkage that had worn out, most likely from my somewhat, um, "spirited" driving of this car over the five years I've owned it. Some people might call this a "wear" item and not expect a warranty -- especially an aftermarket extended warranty -- to cover this type of thing. But EasyCare really is comprehensive -- I've had EasyCare warranties on my cars since 1994. See the website for a list of what's covered under their TotalCare warranty that Mazda offers.
It was about a $230 job, parts and labor, to replace these parts. I took the car into my dealer's service department one morning, he pulled up my info, found I had the warranty, gave me a loaner car per the warranty, and I went to work. I drove by the dealership on the way home that afternoon, struck them a check for my warranty's $50 deductible, got in my car and was on my way. Couldn't have been simpler.
BTW, the extended warranty I just bought on my 3s last night will take the car to 6 years/100,000 miles. bumper to bumper, with a $100 deductible. (I raised the deductible and saved a few bucks since prior experience has shown that I hardly ever get my money out of the warranty -- I get them for peace of mind, as someone said. I negotiated the warranty's price and wound up getting it for a little over $800, which raised my monthly payment by $19.)
... And since I still had 9,000 miles of extended warranty left on the car I traded, I will be receiving a check from Mazda in the mail in the next few weeks. I'm not expecting a whole lot (it's pro-rated), but it'll be interesting at any rate to see what I'll get.
Meade
That's the same experinece my brother had who also did not mind paying extra to get the peace of mind. In Canada, the program is called Mazda Added Protection (MAP) and complements your Mazda Limited Warranty for up to 7 years or 160,000 km.
p.s. is this what John Lennon meant when he said: whatever gets you through the night.
"You know, one less thing."
Meade
Too funny, just read your post about the front suspension problem you had and I had the same replacement done at about 115,000km. Again, also likely from, errrrr, sprited driving. I swear our cars were almost symbioticly linked.
Other than that issue, I have only ever had one other problem with the Pro that I basically attribute as my fault. I had some issues with the throttle and RPM sticking at odd times and the only way to fix the problem was a quick, abrupt tap on the old gas pedal. The plugs, wires, everything checked out okay, but eventually the problem got worse and worse. As it turns out, the throttle body was completely toast and gummed up and beyond the point of cleaning. Turns out the damn K&N filter I stupidly put in the car and its associated filter oil got sucked into the throttle body and the oil, combined with a little dirt and carbon turned into an almost concrete like substance that gummed the throttle body.
I had read about this happening to a lot of cars with K&N's over the years and largely discounted it as over-oiling by the users. I did not overoil my filter and it still happened. The mechanic and service guys just kinda chuckled and said they see a lot of this happening, especially with the younger guys throwing the K&N in their cars with a modified intake and exhaust. I think the smile was more pity as I'm not really classed as a young guy anymore... LOL
Hey, still waiting for your thoughts on the 3. I also see the forums have not changed much in the last 2 or so years since Iast posted and that you still have these ghost posters who only have negative things to say about a particular car, or trash the car as compared to say, a Yugo. LOL. really too funny.
Roger-dodger on the K&N. I started hearing about K&N this and K&N that back when I owned the B2300 pickup; all the kids over on fordranger.com were touting how wonderful they were -- and all I could do was wonder what business oil had in the air coming into your engine. Glad to see that going with my gut feelings was the right thing to do; sorry about your outcome. I guess there is something to be said about how a manufacturer puts a car together, huh? If anyone should know what to stick where on an engine, it should be the company building the car! That's why I modify NOTHING. (My warranty stays nice and intact that way too.)
Well, I've put a grand total of about 35 miles on my 3. I can report that driving it is definitely a blast, with wayyyyy more power than the Protege had. More to come on that after I rack up a few miles, but I did spend a few good moments (between thunderstorms) last night "discovering" the features of the car in my driveway, owner's manual in-hand. I've spent two years reading about the 3, driving them, borrowing them, etc. -- but I still learned a lot. Here are a few observations (well, quite a few, actually) that may not be readiliy apparent at first blush. You may find some of these interesting.
This was the first time I've been around the 3 at night, and the first thing I noticed was, "what's that funny red blinkin' light on the dash?" Turns out the car's got that "engine immobilizer" thing with a chip in the key, and the flashing LED in the speedo indicates the car is "armed" when the ignition's off. I like it because it looks just like an alarm system light, but it's just the immobilizer. The car won't start unless my key is in the ignition.
I'm glad now that I didn't opt $700 for the xenons. The manual says the dealer must install replacement bulbs. So what -- $30 or $40 for the part, and an equivalent amount for labor, for one bulb replacement? No thanks!
The interior lights not only dim out, but they fade on as well. And the steering-wheel audio controls -- man, it even has a freakin' MUTE button on the wheel! You don't have to reach for the center stack at all! (And those funny scrolling lights on the center stack also do their dance when you use the steering-wheel controls. Kinda fun!) The cruise control takes control the absolute second you press the button -- no lag at all. And the manual says that pressing the "up" or "down" buttons on the steering wheel will increase or decrease your speed in 1-mph increments. Can't wait to try that out on the highway.
When you're stopped at a light, even with the fan and radio off, you cannot hear or feel the engine running at ALL. This car is 10 times more quiet inside than my Protegé was. I actually wanted to hear what my engine sounded like taking off from a light last night, and I had to open the window to hear it. (I will admit there's quite a bit of road noise from those Goodyear Eagle RSAs when I'm on the highway, but no more than I experienced in the Protegé.) The shifter is tight and the throws are much shorter than the Protegé's were. And after reading the manual last night, I found that the cargo-area cover -- you know, that thing on strings that's hinged in the middle, that opens when you open the hatch -- has a handle on the side facing the back of the rear seats, so a rear-seat occupant can reach over the back seat, lift the handle and open the forward half of it to gain access to the trunk from inside the car. And I didn't realize until I read the manual that you can use the trunk floor dividers not only to divide the trunk horizontally, but VERTICALLY as well. There are little fold-out tabs you can use with the floor piece to create a second shelf in your trunk! (Now, as to why you'd want to do that ...?)
The gosh-darned glove box is so deep you could put your leg in it up to your knee. No kidding -- it must be every bit of 20 inches deep. I am certain it would swallow two 2-liter bottles with the caps facing out. Or, to make a better comparison that men can relate to, it looks like it might even be able to swallow a 12-pack of beer cans and have room left over for a couple of loose cans. What else -- oh, the driver's seat has a manual lumbar support adjustment. I hadn't read that before a few days ago. The manual says "some models" have a low-washer-fluid indicator and a cabin air filter; I can't verify these things yet, but since mine's an "s" it should have that kind of stuff, I would think? I'll find out. Since the "electroluminescent" gauges have two modes -- daytime and nighttime, there are separate dimmer controls for the daytime and nighttime modes -- so you don't mess up your night setting when you want a brighter day setting or vice versa.
Coolest thing at night -- While the dash and center stack glow in orange, there's a hidden light that casts a pleasantly dim blue glow onto the shifter and the little open slot next to it -- which I found is a great place to hold my toll and parking deck cards. It's dim enough that it's not distracting, but it's bright enough that you could hold a watch or whatever under it and be able to read it. Kinda like moonlight coming down on the shifter area; very, very cool indeed.
I have but one complaint about the car: There's a map pocket on the back of the DRIVER'S seat. Now, anyone who knows cars knows that the map pocket goes on the back of the passenger's seat, so the driver can reach around and grab a map from it. There's no pocket on the back of the passenger seat, and there's no way -- unless you're extremely flexible -- to reach around behind your seat and into that pocket while you're driving. I think Mazda saved a buck on assembly by keeping all of the interiors on the European setup -- i.e. the map pocket is in the correct position for cars where the steering wheel is on the right. Oh well, that's not much of a complaint I guess, especially since the Protege had no map pockets behind the seats at all.
My son saw me pulling into the driveway, came out on the porch and said I now have a "mommy car" (since it resembles Tammy's P5)! Of course, the red ranks a solid approval from Sean, who will be 4 in a month. Daddy kinda likes it too ...
Hey -- I turned 40 a month and a half ago. Midlife crisis vehicle? Maybe. Midlife crisis COLOR? Definitely! Fun car? You betcha. Reliable? Well, consumer reports says so, based on hundreds of owner surveys. So it's hundreds to one in favor. We'll see!
Hey -- you still got my e-mail address?
Meade
Meade
Mazda 3 Sedan
Velocity Red
Power / Sport Package
Hood Deflector
Manual Transmission
Total, with taxes and hidden fees: $25,500
I didn't take any of the add-ons they tried to pawn on me, like extended warranty and rustproofing.
Bought it at Argus Mazda, after having had a bad experience with Performance Mazda and a decent experience at Bank Street Mazda.
I pick it up early next week (they apparently have 46 vehicles to deliver this week).
I have never really driven a manual vehicle before, so I took a one hour course with a respected driving school yesterday. Anyone have any tips about the Mazda 3 with manual?
Théo,
Ottawa
Meade in Virginia
(2-week-old Mazda3s wagon, Velocity Red, 5-speed)
Anyone having similar experiences and what have been the solutions
Yesterday you said: Having brake noise from the fron as well as rear. Also a thumping souind shifting from 1-2 in the transmission.
Wow! It sounds like there are quite a few issues for a car that is 10 months old. How many kilometres/miles on your automatic? Did the dealership replace the front pads in March? Did the dealer recommend any additional service or make any related comments at the time?
I put RAINX on a rear window and it caused all kinds of problems - I went to the RainX web site and it said to use SOFTSCRUB to remove it.
I used it to get the RainX off and have also used it several times to remove crud from the windshield.
The only thing - get the kind without bleach - and when it gets on your paint it is hard to rinse off. I normally use it before I wash the car.
It does not scratch the glass -
Since this is my first Mazda it took me a little while to understand how customer service at Mazda works (really how it works for them and does nothing for the customer) - let me save you some time. When Mazda says it is normal (within specification) it means one of three things.
1. They know about the problem - but don't know how to fix it - so until they do they call it normal.
2. They know about the problem - don't know how to fix it - and don't plan on ever trying to fix it - so they call it normal.
3. They know about the problem - KNOW how to fix it - but decided it would be cheaper to just tell customers it is normal so they don't have to fix it.
I have given up on the brake grinding defect - I just turn the radio up a little.
I now have a file number set up at Mazda for the harsh 1-2 shift. But that really doesn't mean much - They can always use #3 above.
Make sure you clean your wiper blades with it too. Anytime you clean your windshield, clean your wiper blades with the same product.
And yep, like Bill said, it's with the household cleaners. You can find it in any grocery store.
Meade
just got a new Mazda 3 gt standard.
man does that car drinks gas.
went to montreal at 120km/h and was only abble to do 550kms with a tank full. the gas is around 1$ litres here so lets say 55$ for a full tank.
MAN thats 1 $ for every 10 kms. not so good for a new car who is suppose to do 6.8 litre for 100kms. so about 800kms on a tank. my car is at obout 3000kms now and i havent seen a improvement so far.
Beleive me if they dont find the problem, i know who will get rid of the Mazda.
i already had a 323 gtx before and that car was just super even on Gas.
this car is super for everything else exept gas drinking.
i am thinking about putting him on detox....
if anyone is having the same or had the same problem please let me know.
Thanks
There's something else odd about Mazda windshields, on my Protegé when I claen it, the windshield blade pattern shows in the glass, the swept area, but when it's dry the pattern isn't visible.
fowler3
I went back and the guy at the parts desk looked at it and kept telling me i put the little plastic bumpers in the wrong spot. I had not. The deflector was sitting too low. So he ordered another one for me.
Anyways, just wondering if anyone else had a problem with theirs. Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket ones on the market, and if they fit better than the OE? please let me know guys and gals. thanks !
That note at the bottom applies to glass too. It has a "mild abrasive" in it, but that's what takes off the stuff you want to remove from your windshield. I always use a wet sponge with about a quarter-sized drop of the stuff on it, and don't press hard at all. You'll see it goes a long way because it suds up.
Meade
Up till now I have been a staunch Toyota fan but I am very impressed with the 3. Before I take the leap I just want to assure myself the build quality is on par with Toyota. Any info is appreciated.
marcabel
In the 2005 Auto Guide of Consumer Reports both the Mazda3 and Ford Focus rated higher than the Corolla. The Volvo S40, Mazda3 and Ford Focus all share the same platform and this seems to be paying off for each of them. In my books the Mazda3 provides the best overall value.
p.s. Mazda3 is the latest generation of the Protege/323/GLC family; CR continues to rate the predecessor, Protege, highly.
Meade
I'm a Gatineau/Ottawa boy who has been dreaming of a M3GT Sedan for 2 years!... 1 more year with the piece of crap neon... 1 more year...
1. Am perplexed.....Will mazda allow me to take the 17 inch wheels out of the GFX package and replace it with 16inch?? - but keeping the other elements of the GFX...?
2. Will Mazda allow me to put blue/black cloth seats in Black Mazda3GT - although website and pamphlets seem to indicate Red/black as only cloth colour combination....?
any input would be much appreciated...
And I'd hate to venture a guess at how much a full set of seatcovers for a car would cost (remember, you'll need the seat and back cushions for both front seats AND the rear bench).
May I ask what your aversion is to the red/black seats? I originally was looking at a Winning Blue Mazda3 that had the blue/black ones, but when I opted for a Velocity Red car at the last minute, it had the red/black ones. It really didn't make a whole lot of difference to me -- both look nice in my book.
Meade
My reason was to bring a bit of colour... as in black car, black interior, red being a darker colour... well I would have preferred blue...
But that brings up an interesting point... I was walking a Mazda lot the other day... and saw a GS with the entire instrument panel plated with aluminum... from factory... including around the parking brake and shifter.....continues to above the controls there is a number ''3'' at the top.
Have you seen this!!!... it looked awesome... especially since I want to lighten up the instrument panel.... of course its a personal choice.... I wonder what the option is called to get this and if they'll do it in a GT....?
If you look closely at the blue and red seat inserts, the red is brighter, shows better than the blue. The red is a pattern of tiny squares, the blue isn't, in fact, I have never been able to see what the blue is.
blackisbest: You just might have to reprogram a remote to avoid the person finding the keys looking for your car. By reprogramming the remote the car can't be opened and the lost key won't open the doors, trunk, or start the engine if the locks/ignition are changed. The key isn't reprogrammed because there isn't a chip in it, you buy new keys and they change the locks/ignition switch to fit it.
Some manufacturers have keys with chips that do have to be reprogrammed. They can also be damaged, chip changes, if kept near anything magnetic, garage door openers, or other keys with chips. That's the downside.
Once you lose car keys you never do it again -- NEVER. You keep those suckers handy all the time, never out of your sight. Never leave your keys in the car in your garage. Garage doors can be opened and by the time you wake up and figure out what is happening your car is gone. Always have a particular place in the house where you keep the keys. I keep mine in a bowl in the foyer near the door to the garage which makes them handy in an emergency -- I can always leave fast regardless of how I am dressed.
fowler3
As far as not being able to use the key unless it has a remote with it - that is hard to accept - but easy to test. Lock your car with the remote - take the remote off your key chain and leave it in the house - go out and try and open the door with the key - try and start the car - I bet it works.