I finally got my 300 back on Friday. the Dealership replaced the navigation system, after fighting with it for 3mos. But my windshield wipers are still not working right. The shop supervisor informed me that Chrysler won't let them replace any parts because the computer does'nt show any errors. Whats the deal with that. So its my problem and not theirs. Has anyone else had this type of problem? Please let me know.
I am thinking about purchasing a new 300c with the Hemi, actually I can not decide whether to buy it or the new TL. I was wondering what some of you may think. I am reading alot about this pulling to the right problem, and I was wondering if it would keep you from buying the car if you had know about it in advance.
I am having all sorts of problems with my rain sensing windshield wipers - will not wipe sometimes for a quarter of a mile in steady rain, ocassionally will make one swipe on a dry windshield when I signal a right turn, or dim my lights, or sometimes when I turn the steering wheel to the right. I am having a host of other problems transmission replaced at ~ 4000 miles, drivers window will lose its auto up feature, exit to glide seat function will not stay programmed, etc. etc. I am at the zone level and DiamlerChrysler will not do anything about my problems. I am probably going the lemon law route. All I want is a car that functions properly, when everything works these cars are a pleasure to drive. :mad:
I too was looking at the TL. A friend of mine owns the local Acura dealership and I could've gotten a "deal". But, when I saw the 300c, I had to have one. I love this car and wouldn't trade it for anything. It's so fun to drive. You do have to put up with perfect strangers approaching you about it though.
I have a '05 300 AWD with 1700 mile on the odometer. I am experiencing noise problems when the speedometer approaches 70 MPH. The noise is a low frequency resonant wobble. My guess is that it tire noise. The gas mileage is also lousy (16 mpg, mostly highway driving).
After 8 days at a 5 Star Dealer Service Center, I got my 300c back. This was the third time try to fix the passenger Air Bag light on the dash staying on indicating the bag has been disconnected. The first time they adjusted something, second time they replaced a sensor spring and this time they replaced a module in the steering column and fixed a connector harness.( per direction from a technician from Chrysler). Hopefully this will end the problem. Also, had them verify the chipping and flaking on the rim of the chrome wheels. They took digital pictures and sent them to Chrysler. New ones are now on order and Chrysler is replacing all four of them. Even with these minor problems, my 300C is the best car I have ever owned.
I haven't been in the chat lately, but have some problems, and just wanted to see what the group was talking about. Glad to hear the temp. thing is an easy fix. My rims flaked and they are getting me new ones under warranty. The car pulled, I took it in and they fixed it, no more pulling. My tires are shot at 27,000...Continentals. They will get me 4 new ones that I will have to pay 40% of the cost, about $242 for 4 Continentals. Not sure it is their fault, everything I read about the Continentals is very strong. Maybe the issue still is the pulling?!?!? Is there ANYTHING else the seems to be a common denominator with the 2005 300C Hemi that I should have looked at?
A side note. I installed the new EG Classic Bentley grille. Wow! If you think people thought your car was hot before, just wait. Most people don't know it's a 300C! It took me 4.5 hours, lots of cuts, nicks and 4 letter words, but it's in and looks great!
Take it to your dealer and they will order you new rims. They know its a problem. Mine are on back order so Chrysler knows it's a fault too. Good luck.
Just to update you on my tire problem. Chrysler sent me an email this morning and told me to contact continental about the tires. In 5 minutes Continental called my dealer and told them they were shipping 4 new tires to the dealer. Good going Continental for standing up.
Just took my 300C for 1st oil change to my own mechanic. They showed me a leak coming from right rear seal. I would have never noticed this myself. I'm just wondering if a Chrysler mechanic would have told me? Taking it in Thursday for this problem and headlights flickering, seat not going back when removing key. See what happens Thursday. :sick:
Is your mesage in reference to the 300C rims pitting and losing the coating on them???
I have a 300C with 6500 miles, reported this problem in Jan 2005. My dealer told me a factory rep needed to see them. Living in the northeast (upstate New york) I took my 300 to 3 local dealers. One flat out said Chrysler wasn't doing anything about it, second said they were doing a good will to their customers only. And my dealer says yes Chrysler knows about the problem, which also is happening to PT cruisers , Pacifica and Ram 1500 pickups. The rim itself was not completed coated and is now wearing off. You can also see the problem on the inside of the rim toward the breakes. There is nothing they can do. I have asked for a replacement rims but my dealer says the problem will only happen again.
I have made my displeasure known and will fight for new rims. If you all notice the latest 300C's are full rims and no "plastic cladding" . Please reply if you have the same problem and your location. Thanks. Otherwise it is a great car. :mad:
I got 27000 also and tires are shot--------Dealer or Chrysler won't do anything. How did you get them to go the 40%. Who credited Chrysler or Continental?? Got a quote----$856.00 for new ones---guess what----P225/60R-18 are only manufactured by Continental---only one choice for replacement.
I too am experiencing the airbag light show. what really needs to be done to correct the problem? Can someone please tell me so I don't have to keep going back to my dealer. Thanx. Bdate 01/05
I think we as a collective group should also post our build dates. We can try to correlate certain problems that occur and know when corrections were made to problems by Chrysler (my 300C doesn't pull to the right for example). What do you guys think? Lets continue to help each other with the primary goal of knowledge.
So far no help at all, no fix or replacement,... I am not done writing emails yet. One for sure will go to Chrysler. The pit marks are caused when the coating wears off and leaves the rim surface exposed to the weather.
I just purchased a Certified-Previously-Owned (CPO) 2006 300C. I've only had it 4 days but have confirmed the Autostick feature is not working properly. It will downshift, but it is impossible to upshift (i.e., pressing the stick to the right does nothing). The only way to force it back into normal Drive is to put it in Neutral and then put it back into Drive. Weird...it's going to the dealership tomorrow to be repaired but was wondering if anyone had seen this before (am surprised they sold it as CPO like this!). But I LOVE the car.
Here is what DCX dealers have been told to tell owners regarding the tire wear issue:
> At our last meeting Chrysler advised us to make it a point to instruct > each of our Magnum / 300 owners to rotate their tires based on the > "scheduled maintenance guide." The guide shows every 6000 miles and that > should be considered a minimum. Every oil change would be preferred. The > tires on these cars are not the normal compounds and the cars develop a > great deal of caster and camber when cornering which will cause tire > cupping.
It does not differentiate between Goodyear or Continental tires or between models. My guess is that it only applies to the 18" Continentals. So, is it the alignment or do we all suffer from abnormal "compounds"?????
What is everyone's opinion on this latest spin on the tire wear issue?
There is another forum out there dedicated to the new 300. There have been dozens of similar problems and they are getting their wheels replaced free of charge from Chrysler. So don't give up and don't take no for an answer. I came very close to getting a 300 but after reading about all the tire, wheel, transmission, pulling to the right and other problems I'm relieved I didn't.
What should be done and what will be done are two different things..We should have our tires replaced free of charge with "normal" wearing tires on "real" chrome wheels. Can I get an Amen. But sadly thats not likely. Only if some reader is a good consumer lawyer is that even remotely possible. Any takers?
I am going to repost this again because they are going to pull my post due to "masked profanities" and I think people should know about this, so here is the re-write....
Continental Tire Wear & Right Pulling Problem: I had a Rep come out to Massachusetts and look at the pulling problem of my 300. I also asked him about the tire wear issue and he said it is different from the Pull to the Right. The Tire wear is a Continental Tire problem. They have admitted to the problem and are supposed to replace all tires...DO NOT pay any money for more tires! I heard it straight from a Tech Advisor from DM. I really like this car, but it's a total lemon.
As far as the pull to the right, I am getting more lies everytime I talk to them. We need to contact someone and get this story out there - FOX - CNN - Someone! I already tried this at 1 local station, but they didn't reply, so I am going to keep at it, and also dealng with a lawyer. I hate to do it, but the car needs to go.
Yes mine is a 300C Hemi. My local dealer, I didn't buy it there because they didn't have a Hemi with a sunroof, took care of me. I'm very impressed, and they know I buy a car every 12 to 24 months, so next time I will be forced to go to them because they gave me superior customer service. Smart move. The plastic cladding is a huge problem, and frankly DC blew it. Oh well, I'll take the new ones and hope for the best. I guess not everything can be perfect...too bad the car is superior otherwise.
Some other guy in a recent message said Continental knows about it and they are taking care of replacing them entirely. I looked EVERYWHERE for replacement tires of all shapes and sizes that I hoped would work....nothing! You're right, Continentals are the only ones in this size. Trying to get snow tires was a real chore! Nokian Haakapolita was what worked, but they are really an SUV tire. Did the trick though. If I have to stick $250 into 4 new tires with 27K on them, I'm not going to complain. They get mounted tomorrow morning.
I purchased my 300C last September and aside from the pitting/flaking of the wheels I've had no problems at all. I'm extremely impressed by its quality, performance and appearance. And, this is the first Chrysler product I've owned since I was a kid in high school. Regarding the wheels...Chrysler was as cooperative as can be and immediately placed an order for new wheels.
I used a Cobra wall driller picture hook #2632 and mounted it in the top hole of the filler door with a # 8 screw,flat washers on both sides and hex nut.It works great to hold the gas cap leash. dmiller5
My 300 C build date is Jan. 05, I don't have a pull problem but when the car sits for 4 or 5 days I do notice the tire pressure drops .05 - 1 Lbs. or so. Maybe this is contributing to tire wear problems ? I have waxed the plastic " chrome " rims and have not noticed any pitting. The only problem I have had was with the pass.side,again plastic, exterior door handle that had a terrible squeak whenever used and my dealer replaced it under warranty. Other than that after 1200 Mi. no complaints.I will keep my fingers crossed.
Have no problems with my c awd except for add on remote start...it doesnt.....Went to the dealer and darn if it didnt statr every time....went home and...you guessed it....didnt start again????
I have the same problem with my tire pressure and I too wax my plastic wheels. No pitting yet. Let me know if your (dmiller5) passenger airbag idiot light goes crazy. Mine just did, the dealer recallibrated the cumputer and that solved that. Good luck with yours. It will be interesting to see what problems we both have with the same build date.
No problem with the airbag light,but I did see an article in Road & Track where their long term 300C did have. After several trips to the dealer they did get it to fixed. I will keep you posted.
I bought my 300 C about a week ago. Great car, excellent performance, quiet and solid. Unfortunately, about 2 days ago (300 miles on the odo), the car developed a "shutter" that I could feel through the steering wheel. At first I thought that it was the tires following the rain groves in the highway but when I hit the non-grooved parts of road, the shutter remained and didn't go away. I stopped the car, shut it off for a few minutes, restarted it and it was fine until this morning (580 miles on the odo). The shutter returned and became severe. It almost felt like the transmisson's torque converter clutch was having issues. I got it to a dealer and they diagnosed the problem as contaminated tranny fluid. They flushed the transmission but they didn't have the proper filter (at least that's what they said) so I won't get the car back until tomorrow. I've read some of the post's in this forum and it sounds like the dipstick seal is defective which allows water to leak into the transmission. When I get the car back I will re-post in about a week or so and let everyone know if the repair worked or not. Assuming that everything comes out ok, when I go in for my first oil change, I will have some of the tranny fluid removed and sent out for independant testing and analized for contaminants. I still love the car but I'm concerned about the long term outlook for my transmission.
Same thing for me on the CD player. Mine skips all the time. Had it replaced and the new one does the same thing. Makes no difference if the CD is new or not. They all do it. At least one skip per 1/2 hour of play. Drives me nuts.
Same Problem. The dealer has had my car for 2 weeks. Drained and flushed 2 times. Ordered a new torque converter and are replacing today.
They stated that WATER was getting into a sealed system. Da! Lets look at that. I have a trans that is sealed. I have a heat exchanger tied to the Radiator(clue water supply under pressure) and a sealed filler port. By the way, the dealer added an rubber "O" ring to that fitting and coated the area with silicone. A real great engineered application.
We'll see this afternoon, maybe an application for this states "Lemon Law"
Please post your finding including the dealer fix please
Did your dealer confirm the source of the problem ? Sort of. They suspected contaminated transmission fliud and flushed the transmission and installed a new filter. I got the car back yesterday and it drove fine. This morning, however, I had some vibration through the steering wheel when the lock up converter engaged. I backed off on the throtle and let the torque converter clutch disengage. When I re-applied the gas, the problem went away. The jury is still out as to weather or not the fluid change fixed the problem. I should know within the next couple of days.
What is your build date ? I don't know the actual build date, but the delivery date to the dealer as April 1st, 2005.
Thanks for your post. I have suspected the lock torque converter from the start. I'm not confident yet that the fluid change the dealer did on my car is the answer. I would really appreciate knowing if the torque converter swap solves your car's problem.
I was wondering if your dealer had an answer as to how transmission fluid in a sealed transmission became contaminated ? Your build ( mfg ) date is on a bar code sticker on your front ( drivers ) door. Thanks for your reply.
The transmission is not sealed on this car, but appears that way since there is no dipstick. The A/C condensor is located right above the transmission fill tube and it appears that is where the water is coming from. (this is different from the vibration felt at 55 miles an hour)
TSB#: 21-011-05
Date: April 23, 2005
Models: 300/Magnum/Charger/Grand Cherokee (WK w/3.7L, LX w/ 5.7L, or LX AWD w/3.5L) equipped with a NAG1 (W5A580) transmission (sales code DGJ).
OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves thoroughly flushing the NAG1 (W5A580) transmission of any water contamination, replacing the transmission filter, and applying RTV sealant around the base of the transmission fill tube to prevent water intrusion past the fill tube seal.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The customer may experience a transmission shudder when shifts occur. The shudder is most noticeable with partial application of the torque converter clutch in 3rd and 4th gear.
DIAGNOSIS: If the customer experiences the condition perform the Repair Procedure.
NOTE: This condition may occur when only a small 0.5% concentration of water is present in the automatic transmission fluid. It will be very important to ensure that the transmission and torque converter is thoroughly flushed of any water and other possible contaminants.
9336 Special Tool - Transmission Oil Dipstick - Used for LX CH9401 StarSCAN™ Tool CH9404 StarSCAN™ Vehicle Cable
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This repair procedure involves a triple flush of the transmission. Follow the Repair Procedure carefully to ensure that all residual contaminated fluid has been removed from the transmission, especially the torque converter.
1. Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist.
2. Inspect that the fill tube seal is properly installed to the transmission housing.
NOTE: The seal between the fill tube and transmission housing is correctly installed when the top surface of the seal is flush with the outer surface of the transmission housing. If the seal is not correctly installed (extends up above the transmission housing surface) then its position must be corrected prior to proceeding further.
3. Loosen (but do not remove) the lower fill tube attaching bolt located at the base of the fill tube (Fig. 1).
4. Loosen the upper fill tube attaching bolt.
5. Verify that the transmission fill tube is centered (no side loading) in the transmission housing opening and seal.
6. Tighten the upper attaching bolt to 40.7 Nm (30 ft. lbs.). The upper bolt MUST be tighten before the lower bolt is tightened.
7. Tighten the lower fill tube attaching bolt to 11.9 Nm (105 in. lbs.).
8. Thoroughly clean the base of the fill tube and the area of the transmission where the fill tube mates to the transmission housing.
9. Apply ATF-RTV sealer, p/n 05010884AA, to the area where the fill tube mates to the transmission housing.
NOTE: Verify that the RTV sealer is installed completely around the base of the fill tube and completely seals off the transmission housing fill tube seal from possible water intrusion past the seal.
10. Remove the transmission oil pan. Drain the transmission fluid.
11. Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan.
12. Install the transmission oil pan. The pan gasket is reusable.
13. Lower the vehicle leaving the rear wheels off the ground.
14. Fill the transmission with four (4) quarts of ATF+4 transmission oil.
15. Apply the service brake and start the vehicle engine.
16. Shift the transmission into drive, release the service brake, and lightly accelerate the engine speed to allow the transmission to upshift through all forward gears.
17. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
18. Shift the transmission into reverse and release the service brake. Let the wheels turn for approximately 5 seconds.
19. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
20. Repeat steps 16 - 19 two more times.
NOTE: At times, the transmission may go into “limp-in” mode due a to transmission generated DTC. The DTC must be erased/cleared before proceeding further. The transmission fluid may not be properly circulated in the transmission if the transmission remains in “limp-in” mode.
21. Stop the engine and place the transmission in the PARK “P” position.
22. Raise the vehicle.
23. Remove the transmission oil pan. Drain the transmission fluid.
24. Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan.
25. Install the transmission oil pan. The pan gasket is reusable.
26. Lower the vehicle leaving the rear wheels off the ground.
27. Fill the transmission with four (4) quarts of ATF+4 transmission oil.
28. Apply the service brake and start the vehicle engine.
29. Shift the transmission into drive, release the service brake, and lightly accelerate the engine speed to allow the transmission to upshift through all forward gears.
30. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
31. Shift the transmission into reverse and release the service brake. Let the wheels turn for approximately 5 seconds.
32. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
33. Repeat steps 29 - 32 two more times.
NOTE: At times, the transmission may go into “limp-in” mode due a to transmission generated DTC. The DTC must be erased/cleared before proceeding further. The transmission fluid may not be properly circulated in the transmission if the transmission remains in “limp-in” mode.
34. Stop the engine and place the transmission in the PARK “P” position.
35. Raise the vehicle.
36. Remove the transmission oil pan and filter. Drain the transmission fluid.
37. Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan and pan mating surfaces.
38. Install a new transmission oil filter, p/n 52108325AA.
39. Install the transmission oil pan (gasket is reusable). Torque the pan fasteners to 8 Nm (71 in. lbs.).
WARNING:Risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when engine running. Risk of injury from contusions and burns if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself. Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch hot or rotating parts.
CAUTION: Transmission oil temperature readings are taken using the StarSCAN™ tool. The transmission oil temperature can be read ONLY when the gear selector and transmission are in either the Reverse “R” or in one of the Drive “D” / forward gear positions. Always set the vehicle park brake AND apply the vehicle service brake when taking transmission oil temperature readings. Take a transmission oil temperature reading and return the
I was wondering if your dealer had an answer as to how transmission fluid in a sealed transmission became contaminated ? The dealer said and I quote "that's the way that it came from the factory" Hard to believe.
I found the build date 03-05 (thank you for letting me know where to find it)
Has anyone had a problem with there climate control fan squeaking on their 300? I noticed recently that there is an intermittent squeak when the fan is on (it's almost like the sound a CD player makes when it is moving from one song to the another). It seems to occur more often when I am driving on the freeway.
Comments
Thanks.
Is anyone else having problems like this?
Also, had them verify the chipping and flaking on the rim of the chrome wheels. They took digital pictures and sent them to Chrysler. New ones are now on order and Chrysler is replacing all four of them.
Even with these minor problems, my 300C is the best car I have ever owned.
A side note. I installed the new EG Classic Bentley grille. Wow! If you think people thought your car was hot before, just wait. Most people don't know it's a 300C! It took me 4.5 hours, lots of cuts, nicks and 4 letter words, but it's in and looks great!
As always... enjoy the ride!
Good going Continental for standing up.
Dennis
I have a 300C with 6500 miles, reported this problem in Jan 2005. My dealer told me a factory rep needed to see them. Living in the northeast (upstate New york) I took my 300 to 3 local dealers. One flat out said Chrysler wasn't doing anything about it, second said they were doing a good will to their customers only. And my dealer says yes Chrysler knows about the problem, which also is happening to PT cruisers , Pacifica and Ram 1500 pickups. The rim itself was not completed coated and is now wearing off. You can also see the problem on the inside of the rim toward the breakes. There is nothing they can do. I have asked for a replacement rims but my dealer says the problem will only happen again.
I have made my displeasure known and will fight for new rims. If you all notice the latest 300C's are full rims and no "plastic cladding" . Please reply if you have the same problem and your location. Thanks. Otherwise it is a great car. :mad:
> At our last meeting Chrysler advised us to make it a point to instruct
> each of our Magnum / 300 owners to rotate their tires based on the
> "scheduled maintenance guide." The guide shows every 6000 miles and that
> should be considered a minimum. Every oil change would be preferred. The
> tires on these cars are not the normal compounds and the cars develop a
> great deal of caster and camber when cornering which will cause tire
> cupping.
It does not differentiate between Goodyear or Continental tires or between models. My guess is that it only applies to the 18" Continentals. So, is it the alignment or do we all suffer from abnormal "compounds"?????
What is everyone's opinion on this latest spin on the tire wear issue?
Continental Tire Wear & Right Pulling Problem:
I had a Rep come out to Massachusetts and look at the pulling problem of my 300. I also asked him about the tire wear issue and he said it is different from the Pull to the Right. The Tire wear is a Continental Tire problem. They have admitted to the problem and are supposed to replace all tires...DO NOT pay any money for more tires! I heard it straight from a Tech Advisor from DM. I really like this car, but it's a total lemon.
As far as the pull to the right, I am getting more lies everytime I talk to them. We need to contact someone and get this story out there - FOX - CNN - Someone! I already tried this at 1 local station, but they didn't reply, so I am going to keep at it, and also dealng with a lawyer. I hate to do it, but the car needs to go.
dmiller5
Good luck!
The only problem I have had was with the pass.side,again plastic, exterior door handle that had a terrible squeak whenever used and my dealer replaced it under warranty. Other than that after 1200 Mi. no complaints.I will keep my fingers crossed.
They stated that WATER was getting into a sealed system. Da! Lets look at that. I have a trans that is sealed. I have a heat exchanger tied to the Radiator(clue water supply under pressure) and a sealed filler port. By the way, the dealer added an rubber "O" ring to that fitting and coated the area with silicone. A real great engineered application.
We'll see this afternoon, maybe an application for this states "Lemon Law"
Please post your finding including the dealer fix please
What is your build date ? I don't know the actual build date, but the delivery date to the dealer as April 1st, 2005.
TSB#: 21-011-05
Date: April 23, 2005
Models: 300/Magnum/Charger/Grand Cherokee (WK w/3.7L, LX w/ 5.7L, or LX AWD w/3.5L) equipped with a NAG1 (W5A580) transmission (sales code DGJ).
Model year: 2005
SUBJECT: NAG1 (W5A580) Transmission - Shudder When Torque Converter Clutch Engages
OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves thoroughly flushing the NAG1 (W5A580) transmission of any water contamination, replacing the transmission filter, and applying RTV sealant around the base of the transmission fill tube to prevent water intrusion past the fill tube seal.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The customer may experience a transmission shudder when shifts occur. The shudder is most noticeable with partial application of the torque converter clutch in 3rd and 4th gear.
DIAGNOSIS: If the customer experiences the condition perform the Repair Procedure.
NOTE: This condition may occur when only a small 0.5% concentration of water is present in the automatic transmission fluid. It will be very important to ensure that the transmission and torque converter is thoroughly flushed of any water and other possible contaminants.
Parts required:
13 P/N 05013457AA Fluid, Automatic Transmission, MS-9602 ATF+4, Qt.
1 P/N 05010884AA ATF - RTV
1 P/N 52108325AA Filter, Transmission Oil
Special tools:
9336 Special Tool - Transmission Oil Dipstick - Used for LX
CH9401 StarSCAN™ Tool
CH9404 StarSCAN™ Vehicle Cable
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This repair procedure involves a triple flush of the transmission. Follow the Repair Procedure carefully to ensure that all residual contaminated fluid has been removed from the transmission, especially the torque converter.
1. Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist.
2. Inspect that the fill tube seal is properly installed to the transmission housing.
NOTE: The seal between the fill tube and transmission housing is correctly installed when the top surface of the seal is flush with the outer surface of the transmission housing. If the seal is not correctly installed (extends up above the transmission housing surface) then its position must be corrected prior to proceeding further.
3. Loosen (but do not remove) the lower fill tube attaching bolt located at the base of the fill tube (Fig. 1).
4. Loosen the upper fill tube attaching bolt.
5. Verify that the transmission fill tube is centered (no side loading) in the transmission housing opening and seal.
6. Tighten the upper attaching bolt to 40.7 Nm (30 ft. lbs.). The upper bolt MUST be tighten before the lower bolt is tightened.
7. Tighten the lower fill tube attaching bolt to 11.9 Nm (105 in. lbs.).
8. Thoroughly clean the base of the fill tube and the area of the transmission where the fill tube mates to the transmission housing.
9. Apply ATF-RTV sealer, p/n 05010884AA, to the area where the fill tube mates to the transmission housing.
NOTE: Verify that the RTV sealer is installed completely around the base of the fill tube and completely seals off the transmission housing fill tube seal from possible water intrusion past the seal.
10. Remove the transmission oil pan. Drain the transmission fluid.
11. Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan.
12. Install the transmission oil pan. The pan gasket is reusable.
13. Lower the vehicle leaving the rear wheels off the ground.
14. Fill the transmission with four (4) quarts of ATF+4 transmission oil.
15. Apply the service brake and start the vehicle engine.
16. Shift the transmission into drive, release the service brake, and lightly accelerate the engine speed to allow the transmission to upshift through all forward gears.
17. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
18. Shift the transmission into reverse and release the service brake. Let the wheels turn for approximately 5 seconds.
19. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
20. Repeat steps 16 - 19 two more times.
NOTE: At times, the transmission may go into “limp-in” mode due a to transmission generated DTC. The DTC must be erased/cleared before proceeding further. The transmission fluid may not be properly circulated in the transmission if the transmission remains in “limp-in” mode.
21. Stop the engine and place the transmission in the PARK “P” position.
22. Raise the vehicle.
23. Remove the transmission oil pan. Drain the transmission fluid.
24. Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan.
25. Install the transmission oil pan. The pan gasket is reusable.
26. Lower the vehicle leaving the rear wheels off the ground.
27. Fill the transmission with four (4) quarts of ATF+4 transmission oil.
28. Apply the service brake and start the vehicle engine.
29. Shift the transmission into drive, release the service brake, and lightly accelerate the engine speed to allow the transmission to upshift through all forward gears.
30. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
31. Shift the transmission into reverse and release the service brake. Let the wheels turn for approximately 5 seconds.
32. Apply the service brake and stop the wheels from turning.
33. Repeat steps 29 - 32 two more times.
NOTE: At times, the transmission may go into “limp-in” mode due a to transmission generated DTC. The DTC must be erased/cleared before proceeding further. The transmission fluid may not be properly circulated in the transmission if the transmission remains in “limp-in” mode.
34. Stop the engine and place the transmission in the PARK “P” position.
35. Raise the vehicle.
36. Remove the transmission oil pan and filter. Drain the transmission fluid.
37. Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan and pan mating surfaces.
38. Install a new transmission oil filter, p/n 52108325AA.
39. Install the transmission oil pan (gasket is reusable). Torque the pan fasteners to 8 Nm (71 in. lbs.).
WARNING:Risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when engine running. Risk of injury from contusions and burns if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself. Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch hot or rotating parts.
CAUTION: Transmission oil temperature readings are taken using the StarSCAN™ tool. The transmission oil temperature can be read ONLY when the gear selector and transmission are in either the Reverse “R” or in one of the Drive “D” / forward gear positions. Always set the vehicle park brake AND apply the vehicle service brake when taking transmission oil temperature readings. Take a transmission oil temperature reading and return the
I found the build date 03-05 (thank you for letting me know where to find it)