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Toyota Solara



  • hotanhotan Posts: 3
    Hey thanks to the guys who answered questions about my clutch. all the other cars i have driven, i never had to push the clutch so far to start it up. Now, It has been a month since getting my SE V6 MT, I am just use to it already so it doesn't bother me anymore.

    when i get my real tags, i will have them look at my door to adjust it so i don't have to slam it shut. I love this car.

    cunnr- I haven't tried it with my solara yet, but on other cars you can lock your door by holding the inside handle out and pressing the locking button at the same time. try that. I will try it too after work.
  • To clarify:
    The investigator never went to the scene of the accident to check skid marks, and is unaware that we have pictures. He told the storage yard owner what he was going to put in the report, it sounded more like he was trying to appease Toyota. Don't know that it does them any favors.

    As for not hitting the brakes, my daughter never knew what happened until it was all over. She crawled out of the car asking, "Why did my car do that? Why did that happen?" It was the witnesses that told her what had happened. She just knew that the car went into a skid for no apparent reason. In those circumstances, I think anyone's first reaction would be to slow down the car (and she was doing 70 mph, the legal speed limit for the NCarolina hwy.)
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    There is only one way to defeat the anti-lockout feature on the Solara. First, before you put the key in the ignition, lock the doors. Then, put the key in and start it. Don't hit the door lock again as it will now prevent you from unlocking it.
  • i dont know if this was a defect. it sounds like the wheel nuts weren't tightened properly. i had an accident in my 97 accord where the left rear tire came off the wheel (too low tire pressure), which made me totally lose control. it's a LOT easier to maintain control when a FRONT tire goes out because when a rear goes out the car's rear will be loose as in it will slide and counter-steering will only make things worse. on an SUV, a blown tire on any corner will cause a dramatic shift in weight.
  • Start the car, Turn the heat on. Get out. Use extra key and lock the doors. Get ready for work. Go to work! Car is warm and ready!
  • Any suggestions why I get rough shift, 2nd to first stop and go? Dealer says normal. I say not! The lights dim, the charging system and battery check out, I think its a tranny prob or throttle prob. Anyone else have this, where the car drops to 100 to 200 RPMS, stammers then is okay?

    00 black SE V6
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    Your grammar makes it difficult to understand what is going on with your vehicle. Do you have a manual or automatic transmission? If it is a manual, it should stick a lot between 2nd to 1st unless you are at a complete stop. This is a safety feature to keep you from over-revving the engine by dropping into 1st at higher speeds.
  • What my car is doing(00 auto), is that when you are driving in stop and go traffic, usually between 1st and 2nd gear, when the car douwnshifts from 2nd to 1st, you feel, or hear a thud or thunk noise, the RPM's drop to 100-200, and the lights dim. The dealer says they can't reproduce the problem, and keep checking the charging system, without even driving the car. The last time It was in for service, the service advisor drove it around the block, and could not reproduce the problem. It happens 50 to 75 percent of the time driving the car, in stop in go traffic on the highway, or parking lots, etc. I agree they cant fix it, if they can't reproduce it, and I would like them to keep it overnight and have a mechanic maybe drive it home from work and then back, to get a better feel of the car. The adviser woun't even speculate what may cause this.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    Thanks for the clarification. Allowing the tech to drive it overnight is a good idea. I hope they are able to reproduce and correct the problem.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    I would have to say that the trans problem is not normal and the lights are dimming because of the idle dropping wich causes the alternator not to charge right.I have 00 also and i don't even feel it downshift at all.
  • I have to say I've been unhappy with the Solara since day one. It's a 2000 which I bought in December of '99. I was having an anxiety attack when I sat down to sign the contract. I now wish I would have paid more attention to that feeling. My other car is a 1996 Camry Coupe which I was fairly happy with. But this Solara... It's really noisy on the inside. It sounds like a lot of air is coming in and sometimes the windows sound like they are going to pop out or something. There is also this constant creaking noise coming from the dash. I've taken it to the dealer three times and they can't seem to repair it. There is also this slight vibration I've noticed since day one. I've taken it to the dealer three times for this also. The other thing I'm unhappy with is the remote security and locking system. This was installed by the dealer (I think) and both doors open at the same time. Which I don't think is such a great security feature. When the salesperson was explaining how to use the system, I was told that you press the remote once to open the one door and twice to open both doors. But that didn't happen that way. I asked the dealer about it when I brought it in for the other problelms and they told me that it only worked by opening both doors and it couldn't be programmed to open only one door. So overall, I'm unhappy with the Solara and I doubt very much that I will buy a Toyota again. Does anyone want to buy it? I'm thinking of trading it in or something for a Volkswagen Passat or a Honda Accord.
  • cunnrcunnr Posts: 9
    Cliffy1, your suggestion to avoid the anti-lockout feature while warming up the car does not seem to work for me. I think you suggested to lock the door before inserting the key into the ignition. No luck so far but I will try it again later with different permutations. Perhaps pulling the exterior handle while closing the door would make a difference as someone else suggested or using a second key to lock the door. I would prefer not to have to carry 2 keys. Has anyone else conducted any experiments on this?
    Another issue has arisen that I would like people's opinion on. I bought my 2000 Solara SLE as a demo with approx 6000 miles. I have since put another 10k miles on the car without problem. During the last routine service call at the selling dealership, I learned that the car had been involved in a minor accident at around 2500 miles (an insurance claim # printed on the service receipt and I followed up with a few questions). As a result of the accident, the left rear wheel was replaced and the associated quarter panel and wheel housing panel was replaced. The repair bill was approx $800. The repair work was done at the same dealer that sold me the car. However, the car was sold to me as a new car (for $23,700; list price was $29,700)and titled as a new car, and I am sure the salesman told me (in response to my question) that the car had never been involved in an accident. But given the volume of cars this dealer sells, I am not sure if each salesman knows the history of each car. Anyone have thoughts on this. I have spoken with the dealer about the facts but have not pushed the issue so far. The dealer initially thought the work was only a "bumper job" but the facts now show a little more than that (but probably not much more). I can't find anything wrong with the car (it even drives straight with no pulling). The repair work seems well done (they even redid the corresion protection). I suppose the resale value of the car might be affected but I plan on driving the car for many years to come. In summary it appears to be an honest mistake and I don't think there was any intentional coverup by the dealer. What do y'all think? Thanks again.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    First, if you lock your door with it running, you need two keys anyway.

    Next, you may have a legal issue here. There are damage disclosure laws that may have been broken. This varies by state but I think in VA it is if the damage is more than 2% of MSRP, we are required to have a customer sign a damage disclosure statement. If this has not been done the car is a "full recourse" which means we would have to refund the entire purchase price at any time the customer wanted it. Even 10 years down the road you would be entitled to your original purchase price.

    As I said, this varies by state so see an attorney. The $800 might now have exceeded the limits in your state for legal disclosure in which case you are out of luck.
  • You need 2 keys. I use my valet, which I hide in the car anyway. (1) start the car, (2) turn on heat, (3)get out! (4) turn key towards front, or counterclockwise to lock doors.(5)get ready for work, and hope somone doesnt break your window and steal your car!
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 723
    can't you buy a remote starter that starts the car by remote control? kinda like, you aim this remote gizmo at your car from the comfort of your home or apartment or condo, and the car starts, and then when it's warmed up, you unlock the door, enter, insert key into ignition and turn just partway, not all the way (since the car's already started), and off you go. am i imssing something here?
  • pbcpbc Posts: 44
    Does anyone know what the warranty is for speakers? I purchased my Solara in Sept of 1999 and have noticed that the tweeter (I Think) on the passenger side now ticks a bit (primarily when listening to a someone speaking on the radio, but I do notice it with songs as well). It's really starting to annoy me, especially since I rarely "crank" the stereo up. Has anyone else had this problem? Does someone know if the warranty covers this? Cliffy?
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    They are covered under the 3 year or 36K mile warranty.
  • hotanhotan Posts: 3
    Hi. i was wondering if anyone knows how to replace the rear 6x9 speakers. the stock ones are okay but i have a better pair of cerwin vega's i like to replace them with. I can't seem be able to get the grill off. I don't know where to start. does anyone out there have any help for me. thanks.

  • evaddaveevaddave Posts: 156
    We got one for my soon-to-be mother-in-law, so I can help with this question.

    With any good remote starter, there's no need to point the remote at the car--it works on radio frequency (like car radios) not infrared (like a tv remote). The one we bought also has a remote entry feature, so when you start the car, it automatically locks the doors. This is not really necessary to prevent theft, which I'll explain later. Then when you go out to the car, you push the Unlock button on the remote and get into your warm (or cool) car.

    The starter has a timer in it that will turn the engine off after 15 minutes of running so you don't accidentally run it out of gas.

    Here's the anti-theft feature that I referred to above: if you depress the brake pedal before inserting the key into the ignition and turning to the ON position, the remote starter will kill the engine. The thought here is that you have to depress the brake pedal to shift out of Park, so you can't drive it away without having the key.

    And some have a starter saver feature so that if you hop in the running car and try to start the engine, it will keep the starter from grinding.

    And here's a funny story just to tie it all together. Mom-in-law used the remote starter to warm up her car, but when she went to get in it, the remote's batteries had died. Naturally she was concerned because she thought the car would run out of gas (she didn't know about the 15-minute limit) before AAA could get there to open the car. She went back into the house to call one of her daughters, who responded, "Why don't you just use the key?"

  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    You can't get this if you have the engine immobilizer. Well, you can but it requires disabling this anti-theft feature.
  • I was looking for a remote starter, and got a quote of at least $400.00, to use with the immobilizer, from Car Boutique. I also got a warning from a sales kid at Circuit City not to put one in my Solara as I won't be able to lock my doors with the remote for whatever reason, and I will have to use a different remote, which is not bad, since the range is poor, and I am put to shame by my friends Hyundai Sonata remote range, which is also greatly enhanced by the remote starter. I do not know how accurate this info is,(the door locking) but I would like a remote, as I had one years ago, and it was a nice feature on a cold day.

    Latest Solara problem...

    Now to add to my growing list of complaints, I have an annoying squeek from the rear wheels when going over small bumps, or entering parking lots at slow speeds! New shocks, maybe? Maybe a lube job. I am up to 19,000 miles, and this car is staring to remind me of my last car, the 1997 Dodge Avenger, probably Americas worst car next to Ford Pinto. I am very unimpressed by Toyota quality, as it seems to be the same as every other car. Maybe their statistics are good, on paper, and I got a lemon. Perhaps I am too picky. I am not one to be trapped by the marketing confines of "brand identification" and will probably not spend another 25 grand, cash, on a Toyota again. All it got me is numerous unresolved trips to the service department, feeling of anxiety when being explained how to answer (told how to answer)the CUSTOMER SERVICE SURVEY.
  • uh...squeaking of the rear anti-roll bar doesn't qualify as being a lemon. fords have blown head gaskets. you have a squeaky rear end. :) have the dealer lube the bushings on the anti-roll bar and that should solve the problem. this is a typical problem in cold weather.
  • hydrozzhydrozz Posts: 22
    what kinda of gas mileage should you get on the v6? im only averaging under 400 per tank, is there soemthing wrong w/ my car?
  • Uh, squeeking maybe typical in cold weather, for an old car. Not a 9 month old car. I am 31 years old, and buy a new car every 1-2 years, and have never had this many probems, accept for my 97 Avenger. The lemon comment is based on...

    1) Third battery in 9 months replaced by dealer.

    2) Too many chips on hood to count (poor paint quality).

    3) Pulled to left until 3 wheel alignments, and rotations, gave an acceptable ride at highway speeds.

    4) Passenger seat squeeks at high speeds, even after repairing a loose clamp, or whatever it was, and having every passenger say,"Hey, your seat is broken!"

    4) Drivers seat moves back when accelerating from stop to start.

    5) Coin box is mis-aligned.

    6) Paint peeled on muffler first week.

    7) Ignition is starting to stick, but not bad.

    8) Rough trans shifting and dimming lght problem, still unresolved.

    9) Strange vibration in drivers seat when driving on wet roads, making noise, or strange vibration when driving at constant speeds.

    10) Horrific shudder in dash when front wheels spin on wet roads.

    11) Lack of alloy spare, and Toyotas lack of willingness to provide one, as mentioned in the sales brochure.

    Don't get me wrong, I still like my Solara, but am not so impressed as many others seem to be. If I had to say what car I had that never gave me any problems, it would be, and don't laugh, but my 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier. I drove it 55k, and then the A/C condensor went bad. That was it! It cost 1/2 of what Solara cost, but never a problem, let alone, bad, chipped paint, and rough shifting.
  • Man, sorry to hear that you are unsatisfied with the Solara. I think it is the best car I have had, and I am in the same boat as you (new car every 2 years). I drive 100miles a day and love every one. There seems to be a few common problems dispersed among the Solaras that have been fixed, but it seems you have them ALL! I know my service department is open until midnight, so I get my stuff fixed after work. If I had to be without my car I would be even more upset when something goes wrong than I already am. I have the supercharger, TRD exhaust, and just installed the quick sifter (take a look at the shifter installation:) The only problem I have had was a faulty knock sensor which set off my check engine light and caused my timing to retard. My dealership fixed it and I was back on the road. That is why the car comes with a warranty. NO ONE is perfect. As for the spare problem, I think I remember someone a while back filing a small suit claim against the dealer (or something like that), and the dealer just gave him the alloy spare like it says in the brochure. It probably was a hassle, but it made the dealer live up to what Toyota says.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    350 to 375 miles on a tank is pretty normal. What is your actual mileage? If you live in an area with oxygenated fuel, you could be getting as low as 20 to 22 on the highway. After Feb 15, that should increase to 24 to 28 with the V6 engine.
  • black00black00 Posts: 48
    What is oxygenated fuel? I.e why and beyond the obvious meaning of the word.

    Do they go back to "regular fuel" after the winter?
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    In many parts of the country, you will see a small note on the gas pump stating that oxygenated fuel is used between November 15 and February 15. It seems this stuff reduces emissions in cold weather. It is awful stuff. Many cars run rougher and suffer poor mileage when using this garbage. Aren't you all proud of our beloved federal government for taking such good car of us?
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 723
    i get 450 to 500 miles to a tank of gas, depending on whether i do city or highway mostly...i have the V6 5 speed, on 87 octane....i think i get maybe a bit less in lose air pressure as temp lowers, so make sure those tires don't have air showing through if you're living in the land of the wind chill factor....(to paraphrase hank williams, sr./prine) ..seems to me that 350 to 375 miles on a tank is NOT normal--- you got an 18.5 gallon tank there...i would think you can get about 24 to 26 miles per gallon in mixed multiplying 18.5 times 24 gets you 440 miles... if you're getting 375 miles max on a tank of gas, heck, that's just 20 miles to a gallon and to me, that must mean you're city driving all the time (and not doing a rodney king 65 in a 25 mile per hour zone).... and who does that? if somebody is doing 80%-100% city driving, you don't need a solara, you need a geo metro/ford festiva. and if you're paying tolls for city bridges, the solara isn't for you due to the lame coin box.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    You are correct if you run the tank dry. The low fuel light come on at about 15 to 15.5 gallons. If you fill up when the light comes on, you would have 360 miles if you were getting 24 MPG.
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