Pondered for about a half hour or so upgrading the wife's minivan. Some ad popped up here on Edmunds about special deals on the new T&C, so I clicked. It was showing something like $25k for a Touring with DVD and leather, I believe. I didn't have time that day to poke further, so I stopped.
Went to Chrysler's site yesterday to see what's what. However, as I suspected, it is still way north of $30k to get one equipped like her 2008 Limited, and I know she's not give up any of those features. Ah well, she's at about 58k miles on hers, so nothing TOO frightening, although I still think a bit high for the amount of time she's had it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
hopefully just battery. I really have neither the time nor money to deal with something more significant.
and big news, getting another punch on the card today! At least, I think I can count it.
since the dealer rolled us away in the wrong car (well, right car, but they paperworked a different unit), I have a dilemma. and because the plates/registratin have already arrived, the only real solution is to go back, and take in the "used" one and get the brand new unit that matches the DMV work.
needless to say, the dealer is quite freaked out, since we are tooling around in something that belongs to them (with no dealer plate or "authority"), and they have a car sitting on the lot that is already registered, so they could not sell if they wanted to.
so, cleanest solution is, I take back this one, and drive away in a brand new unit complete with some accessories we were going to buy anyway thrown in for our trouble. And they end up with a new (untitled) car back with 400+ miles. Sucks for them.
This doesn't sound like a bad battery but it it's five years old you are puishing your luck especially as we head into the cooler months.
It sounds like maybe a bad ground somewhere.
In any event, I wouldn't trust the "mechanics" at WM to diagnose anything. You might be able to save a few bucks if you have a known and trusted Indy shop but anymore they seem to charge as much as a dealer does.
What is the dealer's 'Doc Fee'? Bet they actually spend way more than that this time... - Ray Pleased with the image of the freaked out dealer folks....
Just goes to show that dealers are human, too, and make mistakes.
Looks like you got the first 400 miles for free, and the dealer will have to explain the next buyer why the car they are selling now has 400 miles on it and wasn't a dealer demo.
Perhaps the buyer can get a bit of consideration for that!
he is 4 hours away so hard for me to do anything about it. The car sits a lot outside in the winter in a real cold climate, so I fully well suspect the battery is on the way out anyway.
so, with all this going on, a new one will be required most likely (or certainly couldn't hurt).
If it won't jump, a new battery may not help either, but at that point (jump failing) it will have to be towed someplace. so putting in a battery himself is a good first attempt. Especially because I know where it is parked, and getting it out via a tow truck may be nearly impossible.
Glad that you and the dealer discovered this now rather than in 6 months.
Hoping for a positive (ie low cost) outcome for the kids' TL. Would truly be no bueno if it needed an expensive repair.
Is he a junior or senior this year? I ask since I'm curious about the possibility of a new (or newer) car for him if he graduates next spring.
We had to switch out the ION for the MINI when my daughter was a junior in college, since the ION died mysteriously twice and my wife refused to let her drive an unsafe vehicle.
Of course, in the 2 1/2 years that I've driven it, not one problem has cropped up.
He is a senior (and yes will graduate in 4 years). My real hope was to get the TL through may, and hope he gets a job quick and can do what he wants with it.
I did discuss what to do if this was a fatal issue (or something else happened to it). 3 choices seemed to be do without (hard off campus), let him use the minivan that I can't seem to sell, or hunt out a cheap basic car lease deal (like those $200 specials on a Subaru Imprezza) and just get that, turning the payments over to him after graduation.
Sounds like a real cluster frigg at the dealer and you came out ahead. Why not take the minivan to them and try to squeeze a decent trade-in that ends your selling fun and saves a bit on sales tax. Nothing ventured -----. Good luck on the TL.
A reporter seeks to interview anyone who recently considered or bought a new Chevy Malibu. Please email PR@edmunds.com before Friday, September 14, 2012 if you are willing to share your thoughts on the car.
Not sure how this one turned out, stick, but if he was having issues with power while he was driving, the issue was most likely his alternator. Probably good at this point to replace the battery, too, but the alternator should keep stuff rolling while the car is on even if the battery took a poo (getting it started is the trick).
Either a bad connection or a failed alternator. Wal-Mart or an auto parts store should be able to diagnose. Alternator is super easy to R&R. Probably 20-30 minutes even for a novice.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Not sure if I want him loose in a walmart with something not a battery. And no way he is going to be changing anything himself.
May be better to just bite the ($) bullet and tell him to take it into the dealer to see what is going on If it turns out to just be the battery, I may end up paying a little more for it, but not the worst thing in the world.
a good case study in the pitfalls of keeping a car indefinitely and running it in
I know for a fact that a bad battery in an E39 can cause problems exactly like you described. That said, I'd like to see an alternator output test AND a battery load test before parts start getting thrown at the problem.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Factory nav, when done correctly, is beautiful, but I generally only use the nav system once every month or two, vacations excepted. Also, my Garmin updates four times per year. I don't know of any factory nav systems that offer lifetime map subscriptions.
The one in my car never was offered an update. I know of issues in my area already, roads and commercial areas that have developed in the past decade that are empty according to my car.
Looking very seriously at trading the civic in. Have a great deal hammered out on a 2012 Chevy Sonic LT. They are offering $6k hard money on the civic (no over allowance since the Sonic is a loss leader car for them). Civic has 108k miles on it and with upcoming mantainence + repairs not covered we are looking at dropping nearly $2k into the car. Still it's a tough decision. On one hand the civic is reliable, but with the long drive and harsh climate we wonder how much longer that will continue. So we came home to think long and hard about it. Nada trade on the civic is $7k so with the damage to the front of the car $6k seems fair.
The Sonic has a few pluses going for it, higher safety rating, stability control, traction control, and it's new. The Civic we know well, it's paid for, and it's already pre-damaged.
I just updated my Garmin and the full ICC finally appears (in MD, DC area).
I also own a Magellan and just updated that, and it does not yet have it. They also do quarterly updates so not sure what the hold up is, it's been open for a while.
Around here they're re-doing the mixing bowl where the DC beltway meets I-95 and also the whole Tysons Corner, VA, area. If you have maps that are 2+ years old you may as well not use it, as it can send you the wrong way and actually hinder proper navigation.
Generally, though, even old maps will get you there, though it may not be the most efficient route.
Personally, I had problems in Orlando last time, the exit off I-4 for Old Town changed and the GPS would send you right past the ramp. It's one of those where you have to get on the local lanes first.
To go back to being car related, Old Town Kissimmee has lots of cool car meets, if you ever go to the area and get sick of the whole theme park thing (Day 1 for me).
Let's see here... $2K potential in maintenance or take out a loan for $12K? Hmm...
What's the sticker on the sonic anyway?
Maintenace is going to have to happen, its been put off long enough, busy summer, kid leaving, trip to Chicago, life happens.
When we bought the car our intention was to replace it after 4 years, it will be 4 years old in 3 weeks. Hubby drives 250 miles to work, he leaves at 3 am, in the winter he may not see more than 4 other cars on the whole trip. His Civic puts up with 4 days in the garage and 3 days sitting in temps that could be as low as 50-60 below zero in the winter. Thus the reason cars wear out quicker here, especially since it seems to be winter 8 months out of the year, I hate Alaska. The last thing hubby needs is a breakdown in the mountains where he could be there for hours in subzero weather. I know that could happen with a new car but its much less likely.
Even so, its a hard decision to give up a car that's been like a faithful dog for 4 years and 108k miles. Its been a great car until recently. The only real complaints hubby has ever had about it is the road noise, the seats hurt his back, and its a very tiring car to drive, but he still loves the Civic.
Invoice is 15,653 on the Sonic LT we are looking at MSRP is 16,310, OTD price is 15,999. However, hubby has decided if he's going to do it he wants the LTZ with the 1.4 Turbo, so will have to rework the deal *sigh*. Guess I don't blame him, why not be comfortable and drive something you want if you have to be in it for 4 hours. He gets his money's worth out of a car.
stick, you should be able to use mid- grade or regular without problems. The computers adjust. My 09 Murano was supposed to need premium and it ran fine on regular. Personal preference and comfort level in using regular -- probably not a whole lot of savings over a year anyway, $300 every 1000 gallons.
But you might want to track your MPG on the regular vs. your MPG on premium because it may be a false economy there. The computers adjust by de-tuning the engine slightly, and if you lose just 1 or 2 MPG on regular you could just about wipe out any cost savings.
If reliability is a key issue, as it clearly is in your case, I'd take your current Civic over the Sonic. Flags set off by the Sonic - first year model, made by the part of GM that had been Daewoo.... I'd be skittish. Of course for me is I'd have to add that the nearest Chevy dealer is 20 some miles away.
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
Flags set off by the Sonic - first year model, made by the part of GM that had been Daewoo.... I'd be skittish. Of course for me is I'd have to add that the nearest Chevy dealer is 20 some miles away.
Isn't the drivetrain of the Sonic the same as what's been in the Cruze for the past couple of years? I would think the bugs have been worked out by now.
ak - sedan or hatch? I like the LTZ hatch myself - a but funky looking, but it appeals to me for some reason.
............starting to turn into a serious "city car" kind of guy.
Drove a Mazda3i Touring, 6-speed manual and really liked it. Absolutely loved the shift feel - I dare say it reminded me of the Miata - just really nice short, precise shifts. Given the EPA ratings, I thought it had plenty of power. You can't get the manual trannie with such things as leather, nav, sunroof, etc., but...
All those goodies are on the Grand Touring model, of which the 3i is only available as an auto, but I think the 3s can still be had with the manual. Of course, then you lose a lot of the high-MPG aspect, as it's only rated 22/29, same as my Volvo.
I wonder how many 3s models Mazda will continue to sell now that the 3i has the SkyActiv?
If it's the Cruze engine that's a third strike. My daughter's boyfriend's Cruze has had the engine fail twice - just stop dead. It's been fixed both times under warranty but I can't wait for the day he doesn't have it anymore.
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
With those winters & that commute, I don't blame you for wanting something new every 4 year/100K. Make sure you check out inside line's Long Term Sonic. Let us know how it goes!
Someone somewhere should keep track of yearly punches on the board as well as vital stats, time & miles owned... Might be fun to look at for end of the year.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Needed some new shoes for my Civic so ended up with some Firestone Firehawks. Wanted the Bridgestone G019's (?) but they were a closeout and not being made anymore, so went with the Firehawks. Like driving a new car, and a lot quieter than the Fuzions it had previously. Even took a few corners a little more aggressive than normal and they held the road beautifully...am very pleased. So with just over 34k on the clock, am hoping for another six or so years out of this baby. And honestly, I'm not really wanting anything out there right now except maybe an Elantra but why spend the $ on a car which is pretty flawless. Now I need to take care of the coolant. I thought that the coolant is lifetime for the last generation Civic. Am I correct here Isell? Already have done the tranny and brake fluid changes.
On the tires, I had wanted the Firestone Affinity's that I put on the wife's Mazda 3s and the daughter's Versa but my tire guy pushed the Firehawks for me. Overall, we're impressed with the latest Firestone products.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I believe Honda wants the coolant changed around the 90K mark. My memory is slipping since I'm not living that life everyday.
I know I wouldn't go much farther than that.
As far as tires, I've never used Firestones. I've always been a big fan of Michelins and have no feelings ether way about Firestones. After your rave reviews I wouldn't rule them out.
The certainly WILL make a big difference in road noise.
Tires make such a difference! My old 00 Accord came with Michelins that were clearly designed for long treadlife. When I finally replaced them with ones that rated performance and quiet ahead that (I think they were Dunlop A4s) the difference was amazing. When I'm buying for me it's performance, comfort treadlife. For my wife's car trade places between comfort and performance.
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
"Same here. Part throwing is never a good option..."
Yes, unless it's a common problem (like fintail's brake light switch). I just wasted about $40 on my Altima for a new external temperature sensor. The display was slow to update after the car had been parked all day, so I convinced myself a new sensor would fix it. It may be normal, and at any rate, it's not something I can't live with.
"FWIW, tires get noisier as the tread wears, so any new tire will seem more quiet than the worn ones it replaces."
There are a couple of factors at play there. One is that many people don't rotate their tires often enough, and another is that the facility doing the rotation doesn't always use the optimal rotation pattern (one of the cross patterns if you're dealing with four non-directional tires of the same size). The rear tires on my Nissan tend to develop a sawtooth pattern along the edges, and if they're rotated straight front to rear, it tends to get worse. I had a cross rotation done a couple of thousand miles ago, and it's already helped even out the wear pattern.
At 100 k miles -- the Civic should be fine for another 100k if the hoses, belts and battery are in top shape, unlikely to have a breakdown. Now the seat issue could be fixed with an overhaul -- cushion, cover etc. But new is new.
I just read the owners manual in my new Acura. Cover to cover. and surprisingly, the rotation diagram (assuming non-directional tires) is to cross rotate.
I don't know (can neither confirm nor deny!). The owner's manual on both my FWD cars (yes, I've only ever owned two FWD cars...) indicate a cross-rotation pattern of the front tires to the opposite rears, and the rear tires to the same-side front.
On my AWD cars, it is same-side front-to-rear (and back) only. Then again, I tend to use directionals on those, so it wouldn't matter either way.
In practice, unless I see an uneven wear pattern on the tires, I don't pay attention to which side is which (for the non-directionals). When I do my seasonal change-outs, I put the front tires on the bottom of the stack and the rear tires on the top. The next season, the tires on top go on the front and the tires on the bottom go on the back. Left or right? I don't care (unless there's an uneven wear pattern). Unless one (or more) end up dying a savage death, my tires always meet or exceed the rated tread wear expectation.
I also measure the tread depth at every change-out. That lets me look at the wear vs. mileage to see how the tire is doing and if the rate of wear has changed from season to season. Yes, I know, it's goofy, but I log all maintenance actions with dates, mileage, and cost, even if it is just changing tires.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
The belt issue may have been true in the early days of radial tires, but isn't now. Tire Rack says it's fine, and they should know. Many mechanics and some car manufacturers still specify straight front to rear only, probably because, if that procedure is followed, it prevents a mechanic from installing directional tires backwards. Then again, there are also directional wheels to make things even more complicated, like the ones on the new Accord plug-in hybrid!
Also, those of us with staggered wheel/tire sizes can rotate them left to right on the same axle (again, Tire Rack says it's cool), so long as the tires aren't directional. capriracer has done a great job of explaining a lot of this on the Tires, tires, tires topic here at Edmunds.
My fwd '01 Prelude Type SH says to cross rotate. I just do front to back as I use unidirectional high performance Yokohamas.
My 4WD (fwd based) '11 Pilot says to cross rotate (& that's what I've been doing).
My AWD (rwd based) '11 328xi recommends against rotating tires. What say the other BMW experts on the board? It should extend the life of my run flats which I'll most likely have to replace by the end of my 30 month/50K mile lease.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Comments
Went to Chrysler's site yesterday to see what's what. However, as I suspected, it is still way north of $30k to get one equipped like her 2008 Limited, and I know she's not give up any of those features. Ah well, she's at about 58k miles on hers, so nothing TOO frightening, although I still think a bit high for the amount of time she's had it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
and big news, getting another punch on the card today! At least, I think I can count it.
since the dealer rolled us away in the wrong car (well, right car, but they paperworked a different unit), I have a dilemma. and because the plates/registratin have already arrived, the only real solution is to go back, and take in the "used" one and get the brand new unit that matches the DMV work.
needless to say, the dealer is quite freaked out, since we are tooling around in something that belongs to them (with no dealer plate or "authority"), and they have a car sitting on the lot that is already registered, so they could not sell if they wanted to.
so, cleanest solution is, I take back this one, and drive away in a brand new unit complete with some accessories we were going to buy anyway thrown in for our trouble. And they end up with a new (untitled) car back with 400+ miles. Sucks for them.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
It sounds like maybe a bad ground somewhere.
In any event, I wouldn't trust the "mechanics" at WM to diagnose anything. You might be able to save a few bucks if you have a known and trusted Indy shop but anymore they seem to charge as much as a dealer does.
Bet they actually spend way more than that
this time...
- Ray
Pleased with the image of the freaked out dealer folks....
Looks like you got the first 400 miles for free, and the dealer will have to explain the next buyer why the car they are selling now has 400 miles on it and wasn't a dealer demo.
Perhaps the buyer can get a bit of consideration for that!
so, with all this going on, a new one will be required most likely (or certainly couldn't hurt).
If it won't jump, a new battery may not help either, but at that point (jump failing) it will have to be towed someplace. so putting in a battery himself is a good first attempt. Especially because I know where it is parked, and getting it out via a tow truck may be nearly impossible.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Hoping for a positive (ie low cost) outcome for the kids' TL. Would truly be no bueno if it needed an expensive repair.
Is he a junior or senior this year? I ask since I'm curious about the possibility of a new (or newer) car for him if he graduates next spring.
We had to switch out the ION for the MINI when my daughter was a junior in college, since the ION died mysteriously twice and my wife refused to let her drive an unsafe vehicle.
Of course, in the 2 1/2 years that I've driven it, not one problem has cropped up.
I did discuss what to do if this was a fatal issue (or something else happened to it). 3 choices seemed to be do without (hard off campus), let him use the minivan that I can't seem to sell, or hunt out a cheap basic car lease deal (like those $200 specials on a Subaru Imprezza) and just get that, turning the payments over to him after graduation.
so yes, a new battery would be best case!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Either a bad connection or a failed alternator. Wal-Mart or an auto parts store should be able to diagnose. Alternator is super easy to R&R. Probably 20-30 minutes even for a novice.
May be better to just bite the ($) bullet and tell him to take it into the dealer to see what is going on If it turns out to just be the battery, I may end up paying a little more for it, but not the worst thing in the world.
a good case study in the pitfalls of keeping a car indefinitely and running it in
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
The Sonic has a few pluses going for it, higher safety rating, stability control, traction control, and it's new. The Civic we know well, it's paid for, and it's already pre-damaged.
LOL.
New term, to me...
Good luck with your choices here.
- Ray
'pre-damaged' - kinda like gettin' that
first parking lot door ding?
I also own a Magellan and just updated that, and it does not yet have it. They also do quarterly updates so not sure what the hold up is, it's been open for a while.
Around here they're re-doing the mixing bowl where the DC beltway meets I-95 and also the whole Tysons Corner, VA, area. If you have maps that are 2+ years old you may as well not use it, as it can send you the wrong way and actually hinder proper navigation.
Generally, though, even old maps will get you there, though it may not be the most efficient route.
Personally, I had problems in Orlando last time, the exit off I-4 for Old Town changed and the GPS would send you right past the ramp. It's one of those where you have to get on the local lanes first.
To go back to being car related, Old Town Kissimmee has lots of cool car meets, if you ever go to the area and get sick of the whole theme park thing (Day 1 for me).
Also, I wonder if those engines accept a tune? 138hp ain't bad, but they're a bit heavy for their class.
What's the sticker on the sonic anyway?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
What's the sticker on the sonic anyway?
Maintenace is going to have to happen, its been put off long enough, busy summer, kid leaving, trip to Chicago, life happens.
When we bought the car our intention was to replace it after 4 years, it will be 4 years old in 3 weeks. Hubby drives 250 miles to work, he leaves at 3 am, in the winter he may not see more than 4 other cars on the whole trip. His Civic puts up with 4 days in the garage and 3 days sitting in temps that could be as low as 50-60 below zero in the winter. Thus the reason cars wear out quicker here, especially since it seems to be winter 8 months out of the year, I hate Alaska. The last thing hubby needs is a breakdown in the mountains where he could be there for hours in subzero weather. I know that could happen with a new car but its much less likely.
Even so, its a hard decision to give up a car that's been like a faithful dog for 4 years and 108k miles. Its been a great car until recently. The only real complaints hubby has ever had about it is the road noise, the seats hurt his back, and its a very tiring car to drive, but he still loves the Civic.
Invoice is 15,653 on the Sonic LT we are looking at MSRP is 16,310, OTD price is 15,999. However, hubby has decided if he's going to do it he wants the LTZ with the 1.4 Turbo, so will have to rework the deal *sigh*. Guess I don't blame him, why not be comfortable and drive something you want if you have to be in it for 4 hours. He gets his money's worth out of a car.
It's newer, safer, will last longer, use less gas, spur the economy, ...
Basically the world will come to an end if you don't buy the new car soon. The world is counting on you.
But you might want to track your MPG on the regular vs. your MPG on premium because it may be a false economy there. The computers adjust by de-tuning the engine slightly, and if you lose just 1 or 2 MPG on regular you could just about wipe out any cost savings.
Isn't the drivetrain of the Sonic the same as what's been in the Cruze for the past couple of years? I would think the bugs have been worked out by now.
ak - sedan or hatch? I like the LTZ hatch myself - a but funky looking, but it appeals to me for some reason.
............starting to turn into a serious "city car" kind of guy.
All those goodies are on the Grand Touring model, of which the 3i is only available as an auto, but I think the 3s can still be had with the manual. Of course, then you lose a lot of the high-MPG aspect, as it's only rated 22/29, same as my Volvo.
I wonder how many 3s models Mazda will continue to sell now that the 3i has the SkyActiv?
With those winters & that commute, I don't blame you for wanting something new every 4 year/100K. Make sure you check out inside line's Long Term Sonic. Let us know how it goes!
Someone somewhere should keep track of yearly punches on the board as well as vital stats, time & miles owned... Might be fun to look at for end of the year.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Sonic has been out for a while and is made in the USA.
It was designed by GM-DAT, however. Given they specialize in small cars, that may not be such a bad thing.
http://www.truedelta.com/
You may have to register to see specific info, but the 18 Sonics registered there have reported 57 repairs.
Great site, BTW. They're a good year or so ahead of CR and JDP data because they gather and share live.
If Daewoo has anything to do with a Sonic I wouldn't touch one.
On the tires, I had wanted the Firestone Affinity's that I put on the wife's Mazda 3s and the daughter's Versa but my tire guy pushed the Firehawks for me. Overall, we're impressed with the latest Firestone products.
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I know I wouldn't go much farther than that.
As far as tires, I've never used Firestones. I've always been a big fan of Michelins and have no feelings ether way about Firestones. After your rave reviews I wouldn't rule them out.
The certainly WILL make a big difference in road noise.
At least that's my experience.
Same here. Part throwing is never a good option, and certainly not the first option!
It's not uncommon for a Honda to go 70,000 miles or more on the original tires.
Yes, unless it's a common problem (like fintail's brake light switch). I just wasted about $40 on my Altima for a new external temperature sensor. The display was slow to update after the car had been parked all day, so I convinced myself a new sensor would fix it. It may be normal, and at any rate, it's not something I can't live with.
There are a couple of factors at play there. One is that many people don't rotate their tires often enough, and another is that the facility doing the rotation doesn't always use the optimal rotation pattern (one of the cross patterns if you're dealing with four non-directional tires of the same size). The rear tires on my Nissan tend to develop a sawtooth pattern along the edges, and if they're rotated straight front to rear, it tends to get worse. I had a cross rotation done a couple of thousand miles ago, and it's already helped even out the wear pattern.
It changes their direction of travel which can cause big trouble with the belts.
At least that's what I was taught.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
On my AWD cars, it is same-side front-to-rear (and back) only. Then again, I tend to use directionals on those, so it wouldn't matter either way.
In practice, unless I see an uneven wear pattern on the tires, I don't pay attention to which side is which (for the non-directionals). When I do my seasonal change-outs, I put the front tires on the bottom of the stack and the rear tires on the top. The next season, the tires on top go on the front and the tires on the bottom go on the back. Left or right? I don't care (unless there's an uneven wear pattern). Unless one (or more) end up dying a savage death, my tires always meet or exceed the rated tread wear expectation.
I also measure the tread depth at every change-out. That lets me look at the wear vs. mileage to see how the tire is doing and if the rate of wear has changed from season to season. Yes, I know, it's goofy, but I log all maintenance actions with dates, mileage, and cost, even if it is just changing tires.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also, those of us with staggered wheel/tire sizes can rotate them left to right on the same axle (again, Tire Rack says it's cool), so long as the tires aren't directional. capriracer has done a great job of explaining a lot of this on the Tires, tires, tires topic here at Edmunds.
My 4WD (fwd based) '11 Pilot says to cross rotate (& that's what I've been doing).
My AWD (rwd based) '11 328xi recommends against rotating tires. What say the other BMW experts on the board? It should extend the life of my run flats which I'll most likely have to replace by the end of my 30 month/50K mile lease.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD