I use 92 or 93 octane fuel, 94 when I can get it which is seldom. Usually it is 92. I avoid all quick starts and rapid accelerations and treat the accelerator very gingerly. My interstate trip was on relatively flat land. Steep hills or mountain roads greatly decrease the mileage with this car but that is not surprising. I find that for flat land interstate cruising the car is very frequently in 4 cylinder mode and I consider that this is the main factor influencing mileage.
Check out the Goodyear Eagle F1 All Season. This is a tremendous tire from what I can gather. I will be considering it when my RS-A's wear out, either that or the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S.
appears that Carl does have the SS and gets over 25 mpg...nice to know for those who consider the HP of the SS and do not want 19 mpg on the highway...
I was using premium unleaded until gas prices got to high and switched to regular unleaded 89 octane Kwik Trip,thats what I used on our trip and the car seems to run just as good with it. Hills really do effect your mileage I believe we would have gotten close to 30 mpg if it wasn't for the last 60 miles of hills. Around town and back and forth to work ( 12 miles City and HWY) I get 22 to 24.5 but have a bit of a lead foot. Hope this helps.
2006 impala - "idiot" light on - key stuck in ignition - max 20 mph??PLEASE HELP!! I have a 2006 Chevy Impala and I was having a hard time getting it started for a few days and had to "jump" it - then one day I was doing down the road and I could NOT go faster than 20 mph and the "idiot" light came on and when I turned around and took it home and parked it - the key will not come out of the ignition - PLEASE HELP!!! ANY IDEAS OR HAS ANYONE DEALT WITH SIMILAR PROBLEMS BEFORE?? :confuse: :sick:
This is not to sound stupid, but have you placed the shift lever completely into Park???...I know if my car does not "click" into Park, I cannot pull my key out either...I have a Ford, but your shift safety interlock may work the same...
Just a thought...
As far as 20 mph, I had something go wrong on my former Intrepid, a transmission module malfunctioned...it caused the transmission to lock in 2nd gear, so you could limp home up to 35-40 mph, fast enough on local roads, and not stuck in 1st gear so your speed was reasonable...
If your module malfunctioned, it may cause the same thing...mine was fixed by the dealer under ext warranty, so I have no idea of cost, but maybe your problem is similar to mine...
thanks for your response, I now believe the only one to blame for my mileage is me, since when I'm on the Interstate I do cruise steady at 70 to 72, but when I'm in the city, about 50% of my driving, I'm pretty hard on the pedal.
My problem is for the last 40 years, I've owned big block Chevys, Plymouths etc. and I still drive like its 1966. If you want to do that, you got ta pay for it. Thanks again.
Based on owner reviews of the Eagle F1 All Season, they are extremely noisy and only effective in very light snow. They would probably not fare well in a Wisconsin winter.
At 25,900 miles I replaced the OEM Goodyear Integrity tires on my '06 Impala with General Altimax RT touring tires. The Generals are exponentially better than the Goodyears. Quieter, smoother, ride better, and have wet traction that the Goodyears never had. I have yet to drive them on snow, but expect them to be sufficient.
For Wisconsin, the nokian WR may be worth looking into.
Based on owner reviews of the Eagle F1 All Season, they are extremely noisy and only effective in very light snow. They would probably not fare well in a Wisconsin winter.
Based on Tire Rack ratings, the Goodyear Eagle F1 A/S gets excellent noise and ride comfort ratings as well as snow performance, both in light and deep snow. The only higher ratings are designated as "superior." It scored 4th. out of a total of 21 Ultra High Performance A/S tires. The 2nd. and 3rd. scoring tires scored considerably lower in snow performance and the highest-scoring tire in the lot, the Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position, scored only marginally higher in snow performance.
Therefore, how exactly is it "extremely noisy" and "only effective in very light snow?" The tire gets its ratings from a totality of reviewers and not just one or two disgruntled owners.
Take some time to sit and read the owner reviews of the tire. Additionally, Tire Rack themselves stated in their performance test "What We'd Improve: Reduce tread noise and increase traction, especially in the wet."
It appears as though the tires start life quiet (as do most new tires), but get very noisy within the first 5K-10K miles. Unfortunately Tire Rack user reviews are either done after tires have first been installed ("greatest tires on Earth!!!"...sure...they are new), or when the tires need to be replaced ("worst tires ever...replaced them at XX,XXX miles and the new ones are much better"...sure, because now you have new tires). Only a handful of reviewers (me being one of them) go in and update reviews regularly as a tire wears and they live with them.
The following quotes are from owner reviews of the tire. I did nothing special to find or filter for these, just browsed through the first 70 reviews. Below are 16 noise comments out of 70 reviews. 23% of owners commented on noise. That is more than "one or two disgruntled owners" and warrants pause if tire noise bothers you. If it was less than 10%, it wouldn't be of concern, however 23% is considerable.
However, for noise comments to appear so frequently says something:
"The nosie and vibration level of these tires is close to driving studded snows on dry pavement. The noise is so bad I thought I had at least one maybe two bad tires, but a check with two Goodyear service centers (both Tirerack installers) proved that hypothesis wrong. Love the traction but Hate the noise."
"By 7500 miles, however, the noise level coming from the tires was horrible. The local Goodyear dealer even declared them unbearable at speeds from 0-40mph. Diagnosis: "cupped beyond belief." Goodyear offered to replace the front tires at a 60% discount; a deal which I accepted as there was no alternative. Tire noise stopped, but the dealer assured me it would happen again within 8000-10,000 miles."
"The tire is really nice, but having 10000mi (driven carefully) it reached extreme levels of noise. It starts at 20mph and disappears only at 60-70mph, when it fades with the rest of noises."
"After only 10,000 miles I will have to replace these tires soon because of increasing noise.Now sounds like a knobby truck tire at around 35-40mph."
"Only negative comment is the slight increase in road noise as the tire wears..."
"You'll need Exedrin Migraine medicine after you've had them for a few thousand miles. It will first start with you thinking that your brakes have gone bad. Then, you'll swear a rear bearing needs replacement. Finally, you'll realize it's the F1 tires, but it will be Too Late! "
"The only big complaint I have with the tires is the noise. Between 10-30 MPH, these things sound like a monster truck. At faster speeds, the noise seems to be less severe and is tolerable on the highway. I did get these tires on sale, so for the price, I'm still pretty satisified with the tires. I will not get these tires again though. There are many other brands out there that can do the same thing without the truck like noise."
"Too bad!! I was initially impressed with this tire. It went south FAST! Incredibly noisy within 5000 miles."
"Bad choice....these tires were installed on my car and there was nothing about these tires that I liked. The steering response was just OK, the traction was just OK and I found them to be noisy..."
"Tires became extremely noisy from very early on."
"...and has created a large amount of noise and vibration. From 10-30, theres a grinding feeling coming from the tires, and above that, a constant howling sound."
"After 3 sets of these tires I could not get four tires to balance out. Road harmonic's are terrible"
"Rather loud but less than run-flats and certainly are more comfy than run flats. They are quite noisy, oddly, when turning at slow speeds."
"This tire is a little noisy but my sterio system works just fine."
"Very harsh ride, and noise levels were fine the first 1000 miles or so then turned into the noisiest tire I've ever owned. Couldn't even talk on my bluetooth as nobody could hear me over the road noise."
I have 06 impala lt, just hit 33,000. Once you hit about 45 and roll down rear window sounds like the tires are bouncing. Has been that way since I bought with 16,000. Was told that 2 of the dealer tires had flat spots so I just attributed it that. Just bought a new set of Michelens and the noise is still there. It's loud enough you can't drive it with the rear windows down. Has the 17" rims. Does anyone have any ideas on this? Am heading back to dealer tomorrow to have them look at it. Thanks
Are you hearing the Helmholtz pressure resonance with the rear windows down and it's sounding like tire noise? This occurs with almost all vehicles when a single rear or both rear windows are down without a front window down.
Try putting down the front windows and a rear window. Have someone else drive and you sit in the rear and hang out the window (with your seat belt on to follow the law, grin) and see if the noise actually comes from the tire?
It's my thinking, too, that when he leans out the window he will disturb the envelope of oscillation for the pressures inside versus outside the window that the resonance will stop. I.E. hold your hand out the rear window and you will stop the oscillation.
That sound/condition is what I dislike most about a sedan...well, that and the fact that the B pillar causes the wind to blow right into my ear with the window down. With a coupe, the window opening usually continue beyond the driver and allows for much more comfortable windows-down cruising. I rarely leave my driver's window down with this car.
Has anyone had any problems with the clear-coat finish peeling/flaking from the B and C pillar trim? My 2006 is almost three years old and has started loosing a considerable amount of the clear coat from those trim pieces on all four of the doors. I'm going to mention it to the dealer the next time I'm down there. I don't expect they will do anything about it; I'll probably end up spraying a new coat of clear on the pieces--if I can figure out how the come off. Clark
Has anyone had any problems with the clear-coat finish peeling/flaking from the B and C pillar trim? My 2006 is almost three years old and has started loosing a considerable amount of the clear coat from those trim pieces on all four of the doors. I'm going to mention it to the dealer the next time I'm down there. I don't expect they will do anything about it; I'll probably end up spraying a new coat of clear on the pieces--if I can figure out how the come off. Clark
I purchased my '06 Impala new 2 years ago. 31,000 miles now and these pieces are also just starting to peel and discolor on mine. As long as you are still under the 3/36 warranty, you may be able to get them replaced under warranty. A friend had this happen on her '99 Pontiac Grand Am shortly after she bought it, and the dealer replaced the pieces free under warranty.
For '08, Chevy went to a duller black finish for these pieces. Probably for the reason we are experiencing. If you were to buy the '06 pieces yourself and try to replace them, the front door appliques are ~$35 each. The rear door appliques are ~$45 each. So you would be looking at about $160 for all four pieces. I am not sure how they come off, but I can't imagine it would be all that difficult. In fact, with the piece being called an "applique", it may just be a piece that is held on with 3M body tape. The old piece probably peels off, the old tape residue cleared off and the area cleaned with alcohol, and then the new piece just sticks on. I am just speculating on that, but it makes sense.
Ryan--Thanks for the info. I'll have to reference your experience and that it is not an isolated occurrence. I've got a good dealership and they may very well accept it as warranty related. Thanks again, Clark
Your post got me thinking about these pieces again, so I called my Service Manager. He said they can look at the pieces that are peeling. If there is no obvious sign of previous body work, they would be replaced under warranty. I imagine your dealer would be similar.
I have also talked with other '06 Impala owners and most, if not all, are experiencing peeling of these pieces as well. So it seems to be a common problem.
This is what mine currently look like, but it is only happening on the driver's side:
Ryan--I'm definitely going to follow-up with my dealer. I appreciate your feedback and the pictures. Mine is exactly the same, only spread more extensively. I'll keep you posted regardijng the outcome. Clark
Ryan, I stopped by the dealer today and had them take a look at the B and C pillar trim pieces. No quibblying, no fuss--they initiated the action to replace all six pieces. They should have them in next week. They are also going to replace the ISS. It has started making the proverbially noise again; first time was when the car had only 600 miles on it. Once again, the dealer and service manager initated the action to replace, All I had to do with each of these repairs was mention that there was a problem. They were immediately in the mode of fixing it. My Impala is a 2006, purchased in Dec 05, with 24,070 miles on it. I am extremely pleased with their responsiveness. Clark
That is wonderful news! I ordered some carbon fiber appliques to put over mine. When they arrive, if I don't like them or the potential fit of them, I am going to send them back and then go to the dealer for resolution.
Ideally, I would like to get the '08 model year pieces as replacements. They have a flat black finish and would be less likely to peel/delaminate.
Please let me know how the replacement of your pieces goes. Did the dealer indicate how invasive the replacement would be and/or how long it would take to switch them out?
Ryan, The dealer indicated that it would take less than a day to complete the ISS change and the B/C pillar trim fix. He did say that the trim comes in "white" and has to be painted black and then clear coated. They will do all that prior to my giving them the car. The body shop then just changes the trim pieces. He implied that the pieces were held on by "3M tape" or glued in place. I asked them regarding the ability to use the '08 trim piece; he said he would discuss it with the region office; since it was warranty work he couldn't say which way they would go. I like the looks of the '08 pieces as well, but since warranty covers it, I'll take whatever it is. Clark
I had discovered that my pillar pieces have clear-coat peeling also on both sides of the car, but I am past the warranty by about 4K miles. It looks horrible and is on the B and C pillars. Since I was refused service even before the warranty ran out and have court action pending, I'm sure GM nor the dealer would be willing to replace them at no cost. I had not visited the site in a couple of weeks. I was pretty surprised to check back and find others are having this same problem. If enough are having this problem, couldn't it be cause for a recall or some type of resolution? That happened before with paint issues.
I might ask if anyone has experienced this radio issue. Twice in the last month or so I have started my car and had my radio momentarily blare sound. The problem is, both times the radio was turned off. I thought the first time, it was a fluke, but then it happened again about a week ago. I had not had the radio on driving in that morning, but when I went to leave work and started the car, the radio blared briefly and then went silent. I think I have a ghost.
Wanda, I realize your situation is unique, but based on Ryan's comments and the experience you, I and Ryan have personally had, this clear-coat peeling is not an isolated occurrence. It also appears that Chevy/GM is aware of it vis-a-vis the change in the texture/finish of trim pieces for the 2008 model year. If I were you, I think I would attempt going to the dealer once again--if nothing else to further document their refusal to provide service for a known/acknowledged problem. If they work with you, you get the trim replaced; if they don't, it's an additional data point in your lawsuit. I don't envy you in the situation you have; I'm glad my dealership is responsive to "customer service". Good luck and keep us posted. Clark
I almost got T-boned at a red light today by a moron who ran the light. Saw the jerk out of the corner of my eye and leaned on the brake post haste. The Impala stopped literally on a dime. Great car!
I finally got my car into the dealer today to replace the pillar trim pieces--all six. They also replaced the intermediate steering shaft. All went well. I hadn't realized that the ISS would cause a "loose" sensation in the steering feedback. Anyway, it is much tighter and has gotten rid of some strange clunking noises it had acquired. I'm very satisfied with the service and the end result. Clark
You just have a radio that sometime loses its mind. It forgot that it was supposed to be asleep. I hope your blinker, chime, and normal radio functions are still working.
Just out of curiosity, does you car have memory buttons for two drivers for Seat positions and radio and AC settings? If so, have you checked to see if the other setting has the radio on, while yours doesn't? It might be switching to the other setting temporarily--not good, but an explanation.
I have close to 32,000 miles on my '06. So this trip will address the above issues and then I may schedule an appointment at the 35,000 mile mark to address a couple of other issues just before the warranty ends: - Exterior Pillar trim replacement - Passenger seat fix...my front passenger seatback pops when someone shifts in the seat. There is a TSB for this and is a common problem on '06's. Something to do with the seatback frame and insufficient padding or something. - Any other nuisance issues that crop up over the next few months.
The Impala is a mechanically reliable car. It is these other cosmetic/trim/accessory related issues that cause the most headaches. Every car seems to have its own set of idiosyncrasies.
I just has my ISS changed for the knocking and the #2 clutch piston in transmission replaced due to a shudder/rough 1-2 shift when driving light throttle. After repairs i now can hear a buzz/moaning sound when i drive and it gets really annoying once up to 45 mph.
Is anyone else having this problem after getting the ISS replaced. Also the delaer told me i need to give the transmission time to adjust. After one week it is now starting have the same rough shift with light throttle sometimes. Is this normal or are the transmission with the 3.9L engine problematic?
I think I've lost my mind too. :surprise: Car lost it's mind a long time ago. :mad:
Blinkers and chimes seem to be working okay right now. I've had the DIC tell me that my driver door was open when it wasn't and that the trunk was open when it wasn't, but it's only happened once for each.
For those that know my situation, we have progressed to the point that GM wants to send their people to inspect my car. We looking at dates. My attorney's office first said it would take a couple of hours, now they've said GM usually gets a full day. I'll have to arrange for vacation because I am to stay with the car... at the selling dealership. Supposedly it is not the dealer's mechanics, but someone GM sends in.
My ISS was replaced, but it is once again having some clunking when turned all the way, and at times has what I call a squeeching sound when you turn the steering wheel back and forth while sitting still or barely moving.
I still get the rubber squeeching sound when i turn the steering wheel back and forth and intermittent problems with the power steering being very heavy when i turn the wheel, i notice that the heavy power steering is no longer a TSB and the dealer considers it normal. But this buzzing moan sound is annoying and gets more pronounced the faster you go.
The dealer mechanic and district manager said a year ago that the heavy steering was normal for Impalas, but it's ridiculous that this should be the case, especially when not everyone experiences the extremely stiff steering. And when previous vehicles didn't have this problem. My Camero has never had steering like this. They just don't want to have to figure out what is going wrong with the ones that do.
I noticed last night that when I turn left through curves there is a bumping feeling in the steering wheel. Don't really notice it turning to the right. Last time I felt that it was the beginning of a tie-rod going bad. I've already had one replaced and I think it was on that same side. I hope not since GM has told me I can bring it back in for repairs.
I noticed last night that when I turn left through curves there is a bumping feeling in the steering wheel. Don't really notice it turning to the right. Last time I felt that it was the beginning of a tie-rod going bad. I've already had one replaced and I think it was on that same side. I hope not since GM has told me I can bring it back in for repairs.
My '06 does the EXACT same thing. It is supposed to go in this coming Wednesday to be looked at. With all of these recent posts about the ISS repairs not working, I am getting hesitant to have it touched.
My '06 has been mechanically fine for the first 2yrs/32,000mi, but now I am starting to run into all of the issues that have plagued the '06's (ISS, warped rotors, peeling exterior pillar trim, popping passenger seatback, etc.) Not to mention an increase in dash and door rattles.
Despite the current economy, I am wondering if it is simply time to trade and move along to something else??
Ryan, The current economy may give you a great buying opportunity. The uncertainty is your personal situation and the prospect of stability therein; only you can judge that aspect. Personally, I think we have some grave situations ahead of us over the next 1 or 2 years. On the brighter side, the replacement of the ISS on my car has given it a totally different feel in tightness and responsiveness to steering inputs. I had gradually become acustomed to the deteriorating condition and accepted it ans normal. I'm glad it started popping to make me reassess it and take it in for repair. I've only got 25k on my Impala, but so far I have not been plagued with anything other than the ISS and the pealing B/C pillar trim. I can live with that. Maybe I just compare all my cars to the first car I had--which I built myself from a car without engine and a torn-down engine in the corner of a garage. However, it WAS a '56 Chevy Bel-Air 2-door hardtop, 300hp/327, 3-speed on the floor and worth all the frustration it gave me; wish I still had it. Clark
Hi everyone, before I dare to venture out (again) and purchase a new 08 impala ss, I was wondering if anyone knows if chevrolet changed the suspension on the 08 ss models? I owned a 2006 impala ss and the front struts and springs felt like they were quite soft. Although I dont drive my vehicles hard, just crawling over speed bumps, or driving over dips in the road made the front end dip much lower than it should. I appreciate any feedback that you all might have. Thank you! -Rob
There were no changes made to the SS suspension on the '08 SS models. The only suspension change made to any of the models in '08 was to the LTZ trim, which now has the FE3 performance suspension standard.
It is also my understanding that all models (LS, LT, LTZ, SS) have the same front suspension. It is only the rear suspension that varies between the different suspension set-ups.
My car has been sitting at the dealer since yesterday waiting for the ISS to be replaced. Hopefully they will do the job right and that will eliminate the popping/knocking. Although, with the sound only happening on left-hand turns I am more inclined to think it is a tie-rod. The dealer did a four-wheel alignment and claimed the tie-rods were inspected as part of that, and no issues were reported. We will see. Despite the ISS being done under warranty, I am looking at $450 service bill for the other work that needs to be done. That's a big bill for a car with only 32K miles on it.
Thanks for your comments on the economy and I agree that the next couple of years will be rough. It is true that much of the uncertainty is a personal matter, however as the economy worsens it becomes a problem that we will all face. The "trickle down" effect is the scariest factor in this whole thing.
I purchased the 2006 Impala new in Nov 2005. I've had this problem the past few winters, but just now thinking about it since it was chilly this morning. The heat works great until I stop, then it just goes out. Air is still blowing, but no heat. Soon as I go, the heat starts working again. If I stop at a redlight I freeze, haha.
I stumbled upon this website searching for an answer. I'm afraid I don't have time today to go back over all the posts. I will when I have some leisure time, appears very interesting. So, any help at all will be much appreciated.
I purchased the 2006 Impala new in Nov 2005. I've had this problem the past few winters, but just now thinking about it since it was chilly this morning. The heat works great until I stop, then it just goes out. Air is still blowing, but no heat. Soon as I go, the heat starts working again.
If I stop at a redlight I freeze until the light turns green.
I think the warranty has expired since I'm over 36k miles. Any advice I can do myself will be much appreciated.
One thing you may want to check is the coolant level in the coolant reservoir. Check it when the engine is cold, and make sure the coolant (Dex-cool) is at the cold level line on the reservoir.
Low coolant can cause car heaters to be inefficient. I know the coolant level in my '06 tends to drop over time. I have had to bring the level back up several times in the past 2 years...I always keep a bottle of the pre-mixed Prestone Dex-cool handy
Hi, I have a 2006 Chevy Impala with 60,000 miles on it. Great car, looks and runs great. Over the past week I have noticed a couple of things. My car takes about 20 min for it to get warm. I have the heater turned all the way up, either on heat or defrost, and it's still blowing cold air for 20 min of my drive to work.
At this same time, when I accelerate, the temp gauge goes from completely in the middle of normal to one notch above normal.
Also, my brother in law noticed some leakage on his driveway after I'd been there. It is not oil, we changed the oil a month ago and it does not show any leakage...but....looking up under the hood my husband noticed some sort of fluid looked like it had leaked and had been spattered all over the motor by the belts...and he said it looked to him like power steering fluid.
I had a similar problem just happen to my '06 Impala 2 days ago. A seal in my water pump failed, causing the car to lose a considerable amount of coolant. The coolant in these cars is orange, which is very similar to power steering fluid. If you are losing coolant, you should notice a strong sickeningly sweet smell from under the hood while the engine is warm.
When my water pump spewed, coolant was thrown all over the engine compartment. I was also losing a lot of coolant while parked.
The heater was also ineffective. It would warm up while the engine was under load, but immediately stop working at idle. The more coolant I lost, the less the heater would work. By the time I got the car to the dealer, the heater barely worked.
The dealer replaced a seal/gasket on the water pump and all is well again. It was, however, a major inconvenience for a car with only 33,000 miles on it.
I have an 06 Impala. Seems everytime I stop at a red light or anywhere in the matter the vents start kicking out cold air. But once I start moving again it starts heating up. What could be causing this to happen?
Comments
( 12 miles City and HWY) I get 22 to 24.5 but have a bit of a lead foot. Hope this helps.
Just a thought...
As far as 20 mph, I had something go wrong on my former Intrepid, a transmission module malfunctioned...it caused the transmission to lock in 2nd gear, so you could limp home up to 35-40 mph, fast enough on local roads, and not stuck in 1st gear so your speed was reasonable...
If your module malfunctioned, it may cause the same thing...mine was fixed by the dealer under ext warranty, so I have no idea of cost, but maybe your problem is similar to mine...
My problem is for the last 40 years, I've owned big block Chevys, Plymouths etc. and I still drive like its 1966. If you want to do that, you got ta pay for it. Thanks again.
At 25,900 miles I replaced the OEM Goodyear Integrity tires on my '06 Impala with General Altimax RT touring tires. The Generals are exponentially better than the Goodyears. Quieter, smoother, ride better, and have wet traction that the Goodyears never had. I have yet to drive them on snow, but expect them to be sufficient.
For Wisconsin, the nokian WR may be worth looking into.
Based on Tire Rack ratings, the Goodyear Eagle F1 A/S gets excellent noise and ride comfort ratings as well as snow performance, both in light and deep snow. The only higher ratings are designated as "superior." It scored 4th. out of a total of 21 Ultra High Performance A/S tires. The 2nd. and 3rd. scoring tires scored considerably lower in snow performance and the highest-scoring tire in the lot, the Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position, scored only marginally higher in snow performance.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=UHPAS
Therefore, how exactly is it "extremely noisy" and "only effective in very light snow?" The tire gets its ratings from a totality of reviewers and not just one or two disgruntled owners.
It appears as though the tires start life quiet (as do most new tires), but get very noisy within the first 5K-10K miles. Unfortunately Tire Rack user reviews are either done after tires have first been installed ("greatest tires on Earth!!!"...sure...they are new), or when the tires need to be replaced ("worst tires ever...replaced them at XX,XXX miles and the new ones are much better"...sure, because now you have new tires). Only a handful of reviewers (me being one of them) go in and update reviews regularly as a tire wears and they live with them.
The following quotes are from owner reviews of the tire. I did nothing special to find or filter for these, just browsed through the first 70 reviews. Below are 16 noise comments out of 70 reviews. 23% of owners commented on noise. That is more than "one or two disgruntled owners" and warrants pause if tire noise bothers you. If it was less than 10%, it wouldn't be of concern, however 23% is considerable.
However, for noise comments to appear so frequently says something:
"The nosie and vibration level of these tires is close to driving studded snows on dry pavement. The noise is so bad I thought I had at least one maybe two bad tires, but a check with two Goodyear service centers (both Tirerack installers) proved that hypothesis wrong. Love the traction but Hate the noise."
"By 7500 miles, however, the noise level coming from the tires was horrible. The local Goodyear dealer even declared them unbearable at speeds from 0-40mph. Diagnosis: "cupped beyond belief." Goodyear offered to replace the front tires at a 60% discount; a deal which I accepted as there was no alternative. Tire noise stopped, but the dealer assured me it would happen again within 8000-10,000 miles."
"The tire is really nice, but having 10000mi (driven carefully) it reached extreme levels of noise. It starts at 20mph and disappears only at 60-70mph, when it fades with the rest of noises."
"After only 10,000 miles I will have to replace these tires soon because of increasing noise.Now sounds like a knobby truck tire at around 35-40mph."
"Only negative comment is the slight increase in road noise as the tire wears..."
"You'll need Exedrin Migraine medicine after you've had them for a few thousand miles. It will first start with you thinking that your brakes have gone bad. Then, you'll swear a rear bearing needs replacement. Finally, you'll realize it's the F1 tires, but it will be Too Late! "
"The only big complaint I have with the tires is the noise. Between 10-30 MPH, these things sound like a monster truck. At faster speeds, the noise seems to be less severe and is tolerable on the highway. I did get these tires on sale, so for the price, I'm still pretty satisified with the tires. I will not get these tires again though. There are many other brands out there that can do the same thing without the truck like noise."
"Too bad!! I was initially impressed with this tire. It went south FAST! Incredibly noisy within 5000 miles."
"Bad choice....these tires were installed on my car and there was nothing about these tires that I liked. The steering response was just OK, the traction was just OK and I found them to be noisy..."
"Tires became extremely noisy from very early on."
"...and has created a large amount of noise and vibration. From 10-30, theres a grinding feeling coming from the tires, and above that, a constant howling sound."
"After 3 sets of these tires I could not get four tires to balance out. Road harmonic's are terrible"
"Rather loud but less than run-flats and certainly are more comfy than run flats. They are quite noisy, oddly, when turning at slow speeds."
"This tire is a little noisy but my sterio system works just fine."
"Very harsh ride, and noise levels were fine the first 1000 miles or so then turned into the noisiest tire I've ever owned. Couldn't even talk on my bluetooth as nobody could hear me over the road noise."
"they are a bit noisy..."
Try putting down the front windows and a rear window. Have someone else drive and you sit in the rear and hang out the window (with your seat belt on to follow the law, grin) and see if the noise actually comes from the tire?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I purchased my '06 Impala new 2 years ago. 31,000 miles now and these pieces are also just starting to peel and discolor on mine. As long as you are still under the 3/36 warranty, you may be able to get them replaced under warranty. A friend had this happen on her '99 Pontiac Grand Am shortly after she bought it, and the dealer replaced the pieces free under warranty.
For '08, Chevy went to a duller black finish for these pieces. Probably for the reason we are experiencing. If you were to buy the '06 pieces yourself and try to replace them, the front door appliques are ~$35 each. The rear door appliques are ~$45 each. So you would be looking at about $160 for all four pieces. I am not sure how they come off, but I can't imagine it would be all that difficult. In fact, with the piece being called an "applique", it may just be a piece that is held on with 3M body tape. The old piece probably peels off, the old tape residue cleared off and the area cleaned with alcohol, and then the new piece just sticks on. I am just speculating on that, but it makes sense.
I have also talked with other '06 Impala owners and most, if not all, are experiencing peeling of these pieces as well. So it seems to be a common problem.
This is what mine currently look like, but it is only happening on the driver's side:
Ideally, I would like to get the '08 model year pieces as replacements. They have a flat black finish and would be less likely to peel/delaminate.
Please let me know how the replacement of your pieces goes. Did the dealer indicate how invasive the replacement would be and/or how long it would take to switch them out?
You just have a radio that sometime loses its mind. It forgot that it was supposed to be asleep. I hope your blinker, chime, and normal radio functions are still working.
jt
Just out of curiosity, does you car have memory buttons for two drivers for Seat positions and radio and AC settings? If so, have you checked to see if the other setting has the radio on, while yours doesn't? It might be switching to the other setting temporarily--not good, but an explanation.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My Impala goes in week after next for a whole list of problems that have manifested themselves.
- Warped front brake rotors
- Intermediate Steering Shaft symptoms
- Four-wheel alignment
I have close to 32,000 miles on my '06. So this trip will address the above issues and then I may schedule an appointment at the 35,000 mile mark to address a couple of other issues just before the warranty ends:
- Exterior Pillar trim replacement
- Passenger seat fix...my front passenger seatback pops when someone shifts in the seat. There is a TSB for this and is a common problem on '06's. Something to do with the seatback frame and insufficient padding or something.
- Any other nuisance issues that crop up over the next few months.
The Impala is a mechanically reliable car. It is these other cosmetic/trim/accessory related issues that cause the most headaches. Every car seems to have its own set of idiosyncrasies.
Is anyone else having this problem after getting the ISS replaced. Also the delaer told me i need to give the transmission time to adjust. After one week it is now starting have the same rough shift with light throttle sometimes. Is this normal or are the transmission with the 3.9L engine problematic?
Blinkers and chimes seem to be working okay right now. I've had the DIC tell me that my driver door was open when it wasn't and that the trunk was open when it wasn't, but it's only happened once for each.
For those that know my situation, we have progressed to the point that GM wants to send their people to inspect my car. We looking at dates. My attorney's office first said it would take a couple of hours, now they've said GM usually gets a full day. I'll have to arrange for vacation because I am to stay with the car... at the selling dealership. Supposedly it is not the dealer's mechanics, but someone GM sends in.
I noticed last night that when I turn left through curves there is a bumping feeling in the steering wheel. Don't really notice it turning to the right. Last time I felt that it was the beginning of a tie-rod going bad. I've already had one replaced and I think it was on that same side. I hope not since GM has told me I can bring it back in for repairs.
My '06 does the EXACT same thing. It is supposed to go in this coming Wednesday to be looked at. With all of these recent posts about the ISS repairs not working, I am getting hesitant to have it touched.
My '06 has been mechanically fine for the first 2yrs/32,000mi, but now I am starting to run into all of the issues that have plagued the '06's (ISS, warped rotors, peeling exterior pillar trim, popping passenger seatback, etc.) Not to mention an increase in dash and door rattles.
Despite the current economy, I am wondering if it is simply time to trade and move along to something else??
It is also my understanding that all models (LS, LT, LTZ, SS) have the same front suspension. It is only the rear suspension that varies between the different suspension set-ups.
Thanks for your comments on the economy and I agree that the next couple of years will be rough. It is true that much of the uncertainty is a personal matter, however as the economy worsens it becomes a problem that we will all face. The "trickle down" effect is the scariest factor in this whole thing.
I stumbled upon this website searching for an answer. I'm afraid I don't have time today to go back over all the posts. I will when I have some leisure time, appears very interesting. So, any help at all will be much appreciated.
If I stop at a redlight I freeze until the light turns green.
I think the warranty has expired since I'm over 36k miles. Any advice I can do myself will be much appreciated.
Low coolant can cause car heaters to be inefficient. I know the coolant level in my '06 tends to drop over time. I have had to bring the level back up several times in the past 2 years...I always keep a bottle of the pre-mixed Prestone Dex-cool handy
At this same time, when I accelerate, the temp gauge goes from completely in the middle of normal to one notch above normal.
Also, my brother in law noticed some leakage on his driveway after I'd been there. It is not oil, we changed the oil a month ago and it does not show any leakage...but....looking up under the hood my husband noticed some sort of fluid looked like it had leaked and had been spattered all over the motor by the belts...and he said it looked to him like power steering fluid.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
When my water pump spewed, coolant was thrown all over the engine compartment. I was also losing a lot of coolant while parked.
The heater was also ineffective. It would warm up while the engine was under load, but immediately stop working at idle. The more coolant I lost, the less the heater would work. By the time I got the car to the dealer, the heater barely worked.
The dealer replaced a seal/gasket on the water pump and all is well again. It was, however, a major inconvenience for a car with only 33,000 miles on it.