VW Jetta TDI

pat

There is a lot of interest these days in vehicles with diesel engines. We've been talking about the TDI's in the general Jetta discussion, but there are different issues and experiences between them. Let's try a separate discussion to centralize the TDI conversations.

So tell us about your TDI. What made you choose a diesel in the first place? What do you like, what do you not like? How's your mileage compared to the gas-powered version? Are you having any problems? Any regrets?

Let us hear from you!

cwo4

I bought a 2002 Jetta TDI new in June 2002. Traded it in December 2003. In the 18 months I owned it, I had: an air conditioner relay fail, the passenger window fall into the door housing while on an extended trip in January, the clock fail, the steering wheel covering separate from the metal portion, the arm rests on the driver and passenger doors peel, a MAF sensor fail and a transmission interlock fail. All were replaced under warranty, but we lost faith in the car. I loved driving it, and never had an engine problem. I traded it for a 2004 Camry. No problems whatsoever in 17,000 miles. I guess I'm not adventurous anymore. But I sometimes miss driving the TDI.

djasonw

Sorry to hear about your problems. I would probably do the same thing with my Prius if it gave me those types of problems. I still think it was a fluke as I have owned a few Audis (same thing really!) and loved them except that they require TLC. They held up pretty well.

moparbad

Unfortunate you experienced problems with your TDI. A 2002 Honda Civic Si I owned was a lemon so I got rid of it before it was out of warranty.

Are you the person who had the check engine light and oxygen sensor failure in the first 1500 miles on your new Camry XLE?

I've owned two Jetta TDI Wagons. I also had a couple of minor problems. On the first one (2002) the rear washer nozzle had to be adjusted. That's it, nothing else. On my 2004 the radio was replaced in first week due to poor AM sound reproduction. TDI has been very good to me.

mpgman

Been away from VWs for a few years. What happened to the 42 city/49 highway EPA mpg ratings for the manual diesel?

moparbad

VW claimed the new 2004 PD TDI's would obtain better mpg than the previous TDI's prior to the completion of the EPA testing. After EPA testing VW stopped making the claim.
I achieve nearly the same mpg on my 2004 as I did on my 2002. Mixed results with other owners of 2004's. Some are obtaining better mpg with the PD and some worse. High 50's is about the best that has been reported with the PD. Not too bad with diesel at $1.52 and unleaded at $1.93.

jclarke

OK comrades:

I'm like the rest of you. I research the snot of out things until I'm satisfied that I've got all the knowledge that's available, then I pull the trigger. I waited a couple of months for a Prius, but my creaky old '93 Sentra started giving me warning signs, so I went to plan B and bought a Jetta TDI. I'm all about keeping money out of the Saudis' hands, frankly. Something about 15 of the 19 hijackers on 9/11, I suppose. I consider it a key life skill to A: Know who your enemies are, and B: Try not to give them all your money. Call me crazy.

I've got about 100 miles on the odometer at this point. So far, so good. But now I need something else to research. So let's talk about motor oil for the TDI.

My owner's manual seems pretty clear on this question. It's got to conform to VW standard 505.01. Near as I can tell, the only two oils that do that are a Castrol synthetic brand that's only available through the VDub dealer, and a Eurporean brand called Motul Specific that's gettable on the Internet for something $85 for 12 liters.

What's the real skinny here, diesel heads?

jclarke

Any advice about where it's available?

vincentwang

PatHOST, you start a great topic here, especially to the potertial owner like me. I tested drive two times of 04 modle, and pretty much sure I will get a 05, cause it will out in Sep or Oct, and the trade in value of my vehicle will remain almost the same till then. And Myabe 05 model will fix some bugs I hope.

dme_angel25

I am looking to buy a new jetta TDI this september. I have heard that diesel can have some problems starting in cold weather. Where i live i get all 4 seasons so it can get pretty cold during the winter. Any suggestions for me?? And is this even true?

thanks

cwo4

And I totally forgot about the oxygen sensor when I posted #2. I guess it shows no car is perfect. I did enjoy the mileage I got in my TDI. 38-40 MPG with an automatic. Like I said, never an engine problem.

ruking1

Well, for sure the whole issue falls into the category of conundrum!

But let me be clear. Since VW AM is the warrantor, one should use the specified oil i.e., meets the VW specification of 505.01, specifically: Castrol and Motul. VW 505.01 is VERY common in Europe, but obviously not yet as common in the USA- 2004.

Having said that, my guess is that the new oil is more for the longevity of emissions parts than anything else. Direct oil analysis of bottled VW 505.01 vs say Delvac One shows that the VW 505.01 brew has less of the normally considered attibutes.

I have a 2003 TDI (CI-4 specification or VW 505.00) and have been using and will continue to use Delvac One or AKA, Mobil One Truck and SUV -5w40.

mpgman

Thanks for the post. Dealer near me has the exact car I want...Jetta TDI wagon with leather. 2 issues. One, at $24k and change list, this is only about $2k less than a Passat TDI with leatherette. Second, isn't there a redesign for 05? Although I heard that the wagon may not be here until 06. Do you know better?

vincentwang

1. It totally up to you, I don't like passat at all because I'm not that old. But I truly hope jetta have that 2.0 engin.

2. 05 will remain the same, maybe some bugs fixed, that all. The redisign jetta line will be 06.

I will get the 05 wagon ASAP.

tom21769

mpgman, I bought the Jetta TDI wagon (manual transmission, GL trim) on Saturday.
Love it! Beyond the fuel economy, the car really rolls. But please drive safely and watch your speed, buddy. I'm 50 years old, generally a very cautious guy, and my teenage son is practically holding my foot off the gas.

The GLS Jetta with leather would be a beautiful little car. A few tips: first, you shouldn't have to pay $24k to get it . We paid $19,577 (including freight), plus taxes, tags, and the stupid $99 "documentation" fee. I did not consider that a screaming deal, but it also included $280 (MSRP) for the Electronic Stabilization Program ( a very desirable option). Moving up to GLS and leather should add about $3k max, I believe (check it out). Now, automatic would add about another $1k -- but would you really want that? This is a sporty little car and in my opinion, if you can drive a stick, that is the way to equip it.

As for the Passat, I don't know how old you are or what your family situation is, but I've driven both cars and believe me, a manual transmission Jetta TDI is a more fun than the Passat TDI w/automatic. Not exactly a Porsche, but If you're as old as I am, the Jetta's like a blood transfusion. With Viagra slipped in.

If you do go for the Passat (a very nice, roomier car), pass on the "leatherette" unless you've got a pack of barfy little kids. That stuff is HOT (and I don't mean sexy.)

mpgman

This is the tough thing with VW...supply. The Jetta GLS TDI they have has exactly the epuipment I want...save perhaps for the auto. At 54, we are in the same league. What kind of mileage are you getting with the manual? If I add up the GLS, leather and auto from what you paid I am right back to $24k. Perhaps leasing for 2-3 years would be a better deal given the expected high residual? For a list of $24,460 and with the dealer having only one, I wouldn't seem to be in the best position to get a great deal if I really want the car. I wonder if just getting the Passat Wagon with the 1.8 and the hot leatherette isn't really the best buy period? Even the GL is well equipped if you can live without the roof. I drove a Passat TDI wagon but at EPA 27 city, am not sure the diesel option provides a real mpg advantage if the 1.8 can deliver in the low 20s. Can it? I may go for the Jetta anyway, but paying in the low to mid 20s for a Jetta seems a bit high given the price range of the full Passat line.

tom21769

I have burned only a half tank so far, but it looks like I'm getting just under 50 mpg from the Jetta TDI/manual. This is with a mix of highway and rural driving (very little stop-and-go).

$24K seems a lot to pay for a Jetta. As I said, I paid $19577 (including freight, before taxes/tags/doc). GLS, leather and auto add up to what -- a little under $4K, I guess
(which of course you'll pay if you want them on other vehicles, too). So yeah, maybe it would be close to $24K if the dealer is unwilling to budge. In that case the only way to cut your cost is to wait for a car without some of those options, or for a GL. That is basically what I did. I called and called, all around, and finally connected with a sales guy who monitored all the incoming shipments for an area dealer. Then I made a deposit on a car that was still on its way.

Another dealer here had a Passat GLS, TDI, at 26-something. That seems like a better value to me than a Jetta for only $2k less. It depends on what you need and want. For us, the Jetta is a second car. If it is your only vehicle, you would welcome the extra room in the Passat any time you have more than one passenger who isn't an elf. But you'll loose some fuel economy, and pay more to buy it.

The price spread between a Passat diesel and gas model, all else being equal, is only a couple hundred dollars. There surely is enough mpg advantage from the diesel Passat (7-8 mpg?) to make that back quickly (IF you can find one). As for the leatherette seats, they have the advantage of low maintenance. If you agree they feel hot, you can always get some seat covers. Then you can expect to have an easily cleaned interior at trade-in time.

dpl

I recently bought a 2004 TDI jetta and been looking for the right oil that meets the VW 505.01 standards. Let me get this right. Your using Mobil One Truck & Suv - 5w40 oil for you jetta? Question #2 How difficult is it to change your own oil? Does the plastic shroud need to be removed from the bottom? And what about the plastic piece on top for the oil filter? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

oldboy

Please note that Ruking1 has a 2003 TDI Jetta, not a 2004. He can use the Mobil One oil because it meets the 505.00 spec. VW makes it very clear that only 505.01 oil is acceptible in the new TDI, and using anything else could void your warranty! Motul and Elf both have 505.01 oil available on the internet; or you can buy the Castrol 505.01 oil from your VW dealer, but at a higher price. Check out www.tdiclub.com for more information, including how-to videos for DIY maintenance, etc.

pusterracing

"What kind of mileage are you getting with the manual? "

I have an 04 GLS TDI 5SPD Sedan and I average 44mpg in mixed driving. My lowest has been 41MPG in 100% city driving and my highest has been 52MPG in 100% hwy driving. I don't drive to conserve fuel..I just drive "normal"...sometimes I am quite agressive with the accelerator, but not all the time. BTW I paid $21,400 for mine with leather..only options I don't have is the CD-Changer (trunk mount) and Auto Tranny.

ruking1

Sorry for the late answer, out and about for a few days on the CA coast in Santa Barbara, CA. Yes, you have that correct but make sure, since you have a 2004 that you get either the Motul or the Castrol that meets the 505.01 VW specification also in 5w40.

It is not really difficult to change oil the old traditional way. VW of course, wants to make it more difficult: 1. with the plastic pan underneath. 2. you ran into the three bolt plastic piece on the top, with plastic caps.

I bought a Mity Vac evacuator, and changing oil after almost 5 decades is almost fun again. After the plastic top removal of 3 each 10 mm nuts,(use a 10 mm nut driver) you pull it off to expose the plastic top loaded cartridge oil filter top. You remove the dip stick and put the evacuator straw down app 33 in and pump the evacuator and remove the hot to warm oil. It might take you all of 3 mins!!! After you remove the plastic top loaded cartridge oil filter top, you can pull out the oil filter cartridge (use a plastic bag, as if you are picking up dog poop, and you can turn the bag in on itself for little to no messy drip all over your engine block) When the evacuator is finished (app 4-4.25 qts), pump it again once you put the straw into the oil filter cartridge holder and evacuate the oil in the deep holes and in the upper portion. Total oil change and rebutton takes app 10 min.

gagrice

I have a couple questions. What is the brand on the evacuator device? Do you think the 505.01 type oil is hype or real damage could be caused by using any other type oil? There are so many diverse opinions on which oil to use that it is very confusing.

oldboy

I know you were asking Ruking1, but let me put in a word, Gary. It is indeed critical that owners of the 2004 PD TDI use only the 505.01 oil, as specified by VW. I've read something about the Pumpe Duse injectors having tight tolerances, subject to wear. VW developed the 505.01 oil specifically to meet this need, and they warn that using any other oil could void your warranty! It is a nuisance having to search for this oil, but necessary. I hear that Mobil and Shell have the correct oil available in Europe, but not here - yet. Meanwhile there is the Castrol oil, available only from VW dealers, and there is Motul, available on the internet. Best price I have seen for it lately is $27 for 5 liters. I don't think I'm allowed to give that seller here, but you can find it easily but searching Motul 505.01.

ruking1

The one I got was the Mity Vac brand. There are many brands, such as the Pela. Mine happens to be a long cylinder and seems to evacuate faster than others have reported with the other brands. For me the Mity Vac stands in a corner with very little footprint. However, some folks will definitely like the compact app size of a basketball put in the trunk feature of, say like the Pela unit. They are app 15-50 dollars.

For certain! Go with the warranty recommendations of VW spec 505.01. I would, if I were a 2004 PD TDI owner, i.e., Castrol and or Motul, 5w40.

However, my own personal opinion before and after seeing the virgin oil analysis of the VW 505.01 oils such as Castrol and Motul is that it is primarily formulated to make the emissions control portion last longer. If you compare the three oils side by side; (Mobil One Truck and SUV aka) Delvac One (this is a CI-4 specification), Castrol, Motul, the Delvac One seems to have more of the elements of additive package than the Castrol and Motul. I also realize that my own personal opinion is a bit like cursing in church, But truly I am not interested in starting any controversy.

gagrice

Thank you both for the explanation. I doubt I would take a chance for $27 an oil change. I will look at the mity vac. sounds like a cleaner way to change oil. There was so much difference of opinion on oil for my Kubota tractor, I just wondered if this was the same deal.

ruking1

Actually the oil discussion can get almost to the bizarre! VW (I am certain you have probably read the owners manual and/or technical data) basically adds "fuel to the fire" in regards to oil and oil viscosity!

For the 2004 PD they are almost skitzoid! I have heard more than a few horror stories of VW DEALERS NOT putting in VW 505.01, despite the dire warnings to the contrary. VW dealers of course would be the warranty agent in case of fulfillment on engine warranty!

Again it is important to use the 5w40 oils, again with the proper specifications. I also know that VW 505.01 is "backward compatible" with the 505.00 VW specification, i.e., I can use 505.01 in my 505.00 specified 2003 TDI.

The TDI's also are not up to full PSI till around 60,000 miles. So in a manner of speaking my 33k TDI is still "breaking in" I use the Delvac One 5w40 in light of the long term goal to keep this thing running 500k - 1M miles.

I really think it is only a matter of time before Mobil will get certified for the VW 505.01 specification in the USA. (some of the Mobil brands in Euro are already certified) But truly, I could be wrong.

oldboy

Exactly! I would not trust any quick-lube place, or even some VW dealers, to do an oil change. Even if the dealer knows enough to use the correct oil, the kid he hires to do the work may not know, or not care. I even heard recently of some kid at a VW dealer pumping GAS into a diesel fuel tank! Until the diesels become more common, it's better to do your own maintenance in my opinion.

transfx

The 04/05 Passat diesel with 5spd tiptronic has a problem in that it shudders at low in town speeds. It is much like driving a manual car too slow in to high a gear. Has anyone noticed this problem with the Jetta tiptronic auto?? Note consumer reports also noticed this problem with the passat diesel

gagrice

I have not bought a Jetta TDI. I am thinking about it for our place in Hawaii. They are popular over there and more plentiful than CA. If you were buying a used TDI what is the oldest you would consider? This question is for anyone with an opinion. It sounds like I should keep my coveralls and do my own maintenance. I have gotten lazy in my older age (61). I usually watch and have caught inexperienced mechanics making big mistakes.

oldboy

I did not reply right away, Gary, because I thought someone more knowledgeable might offer an opinion. Fact is I do not have a TDI yet myself, but I have read up on them. Personally I plan to wait until we get ULSD fuel in 2006. If you do get a 2003 or earlier Jetta, you should have no trouble finding oil, as the Mobil 1 or Delvac 1 5w-40 (which meets 505.00) is readily available. You could probably trust your VW dealer to do oil changes with the older models too, if you don't care to do it yourself. It is only the 2004 with its need for the rarer 505.01 spec. that would make me cautious.
Another consideration with an older TDI is that you must replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles, whereas the new TDI can go 100,000 miles before this is needed. If you don't do this, and the timing belt breaks, it will likely destroy your diesel engine! So if you get an older TDI with about 60,000 miles, find out if the timing belt has been replaced. If not, get it done right away. Good luck!

gagrice

The real issue is the only dealer on the Big Island is in Kona on the other side. I have talked to them and they sell about 50% diesel vehicles because of the high cost of unleaded. I would assume they would be qualified to maintain. I would hate to have a lot of warranty issues and be going back and forth. I may just buy a diesel truck. They don't have ULSD over there yet from what I have read.

vincentwang

Went to a dealer yesterday, and the guy checked the coming 05 for me on his internal web. About 20 wagon TDI is on transportation to BC. Very nice! I will order one at Sep. or Oct.

The bad news is nothing changed on new model. Hope they fix some bugs.

fastrack003

Tough Decision: I've narrowed it down to 2 cars, and have researched until my eyes bleed. I'm just looking for any advice on both cars or which one is the better overall purchase. I'm a little leary of Mazda's performance over time (a diesel Jetta would probably last me atleast 200,000 miles), but I've also heard some bad things about the Jetta's performance. Any advice from professionals and owners of these 2 cars would be helpful. THANK YOU!

caseyr1

Need a little help here?

Does anyone know of a good TDI mechanic in the Salt Lake City UT. area if so please let me know.

I have an 01 with about 46,000K and my check engine light just came on. My turbo seems to be working fine and I haven't noticed any loss of power or mileage, however I have only been averaging about 36 mpg since I bought it earlier this year. (it is an auto).

I know it is hard to diagnose a problem with this kind of information however any suggestions would be appreciated.

gagrice

The dealer below has 2004 VW TDI vehicles with over 7500 miles legal in California. They have a Jetta Wagon GLS fully loaded, & others. I wish I needed one right now.

Wild Rose Motors Limited
1890 West Commonwealth Avenue
Fullerton, CA 92833

jharton

I was wandering if it is ok to use the mobil with the vw 505.00 that is all i can find and the dealer just wants to charge an arm and a leg.

jharton

Can anybody tell me what oil they are using for their 2004 tdi? i can only find 505 00 and it is recommended 505 01? what is working?

ruking1

Let me tell you first, the party line: VW 505.01. What this means in English is there are three so called commonly available oil in the USA retail distribution chain, which meets this standard. GC or "German" Castrol (which is available at the dealers, at or above retail prices) Motul, and ELF. If you have your 2004 TDI owners manual handy, you can read the actual verbiage, but in words to this effect, it says that if you do not use oils which comply to VW 505.01 you are in imminent danger of catastrophic engine damage, which of course will not be covered by warranty.

pruzink

There are only 2 oils sold in the US that meet VW's 505.1 standard (505.1) for the 2004 TDI PD. You REALLY don't want to use anything but those as you WILL void your warranty. You really should keep proof that you use the correct oil. I just bought a case of the oil (VW part # G-052-167-A2) from my local VW dealer, it was $6.50 per quart per case of 12. I also saw it sold online for $5.70 (plus S/H). Motul also sells an oild that meets this spec. I bought a case of Mobil 1 Delvac 5W-40 because I had read it was a highly recomended oil for this engine (unfortunately, not the 2004 PD version). There are tons of posts regarding this on Fred's TDI forum, after reading them, I decided that I will only use VW's sanctioned oil (it appears that it could lead to serious problems if you do not).

midnightcowboy

I went and drove a 2005 Jetta TDI 5-speed manual with leather and it seemed very nice. It was a lot faster and powerful than I thought it was going to be. Are there any changes added for 2005 over 2004. What are the main considerations of getting a diesel?

Thanks,

MidCow

bpeebles

Q:What are the main considerations of getting a diesel?

PLUSses:
MPG is far better than any other available vehicle on the market today. (Even the "hybreds" cannot get 52 MPG on the highway.)

Less maintenance (No ignition system to fail)

LOONNNGG LIFE! (Life expectancy of the TDI is around 500,000 miles)

TORQUE! http://michalborz.myr32.com/michal.swf

MINUSes:
In cold weather, the TDI will start as well or better than any gasser. But... the fuel MUST be treated for "gelling" and the engine takes about 15 minutes to warm up and blow heat out the vents. GET HEATED SEATS!!

The VW TDI requires specific lubrication requirements. Some folks feel this is a negative thing.

Most dealership service is AWEFUL. There many stories of apparently incompetent service departments. Take the time to locate a service department that you can deal with.

midnightcowboy

The dealer (salesman) is trying to tell me it is 5,000 miles but i understand it is really 10,000 after an itial 5,000 mile change.

What kind of special lubrication requirments does the TDI have?

I asked a local auto maintenance mechanic about VW and he said they have very soft brakes and rotors. Have to replace pads and rotors every 20,000 miles. Was he just blowing smoke?

Drove another one yesterday. I like it. I just wish I knew what the reliability would really be like?

YMMV,

MidCow

P.S.- Is the 52 mpg obtainable on the new 100hp TDIs?

ruking1

The PD has the VW 505.01 oil spec requirement. Be that as it may, the change interval is still 10,000 miles (after the ones at 5/10k. If you have the 2003 TDI and can run a top quality oil like Amsoil, Delvac One, Mobil One Truck & SUV, Redline etc 15,000 miles oil and filter change intervals have been shown by oil analysis to be VERY conservative. My front TDI brakes at 40k look to easily go to 80-120k. Rear brakes as you have probably read, seem to go earlier and I am projecting 80k. With 40k on the clock in 19 mo, I have only changed the oil and filter, 4 times, fuel filter and rotated the tires 4 times, plus the required interval inspections. Any and all the fluids have NEVER needed to be topped. OEM "GOOD"years are on track for 80-95k.

Answer to PS. I would say yes very do able! However, I think you'd have to "soft foot" it a bit. In addition there are ways and more fuel efficient ways to drive a TDI AND also to accomplish longevity goals.

I can easily get 51 mpg if I keep in 85 mph and under. However for me, that is easier said than done; so I am content with 44-48 mpg normally. My wife in commute, (25/50 RT commute) routinely gets 48-51 and this is also during some rush hour traffic jams.

sebring95

I replaced my rear pads at 75k miles. Fronts look like they're barely half worn. Currently at 93k miles. Very minimal problems, I actually expected more than I've had. I usually chang the oil between 10k-12k miles, running Delvac 1 synthetic. Oil analysis shows these are more than adequate invtervals. There is a ton of DIY info on the net for maintaining and operating these TDI's. So far, mine has been cheaper to maintain than any other vehicle i've owned, including Toyotas.

ruking1

So in effect you are getting two different snap shots at 40/93k.

Not too long ago at 93k you were looking to bale out and fast of ANY car with 100k!!!

I am actually looking forward to the first 250,000 miles on this VW Jetta TDI.

midnightcowboy

Ruking1,

Thanks for the information. I appreciate you taking the time to explain. I haven't had a diesel or VW before.

Thanks,

MidCow

bpeebles

THat "soft brakes" syndrome was only for some 1999-2001 models and was mainly on the rear end.
VW actually covered the replacment cost for many of them.
 
Many modern vehicles have weak rotors. Given the new mandates for pedal-pressure anot other specifications, some rotors just cant take the pounding from the more abrasive pads.

In response to all of this "churn" in brake design and component expectations, Many manufacturers are migrating from "carbon-steel" towards "ceramic-copper" blends in the pad material.

Personally, I have been installing the ceramic-based pads on my vehicles. Not only are they quietier (less squeel/grinding noises) They also produce MUCH less dust. This keeps my alloy wheels cleaner. The ceramic-based pads are also said to be nicer to the rotors.

pusterracing

"Is the 52 mpg obtainable on the new 100hp TDIs? "

The answer to this is yes, 52MPG is the highest I have acheived and that was 100% hwy at 80mph, matched it again week before last driving from New Orleans to Chicago.

I average 45mpg in mixed driving 80city/20hwy.

I don't drive to conserve fuel, but I also don't tach out everytime I run through the gears either.

thepod28

Hey guys. I'm new to the whole TDI forum thing. What I wanted to know is what people mean by "And may-be in 2005 a lot of the bugs will be fixed". I suppose I'm confusing durability and reliability of these diesel cars [for which I believe they are famous] with the more cosmetic things like handles and knobs snapping and breaking. Anyone care to enlighten me. I always thought VW Diesels were built like tanks. Yet some say that ever since they started making these things in Mexico the quality has gone down. So one of the questions I have is; are all Jettas made in Mexico or do the TDI for some reason come from Germany? Or are the more critical mechanical components [i.e. engine, transmission and suspension] still made in Germany and then simply shipped to Mexico for final assembly? In conclusion, I need a good durable car that can last me 300,000 Km. I'd also like some decent gas mileage. Finally, I live in Canada where the weather can be cold. Are the 2004 TDIs really that touchy with respect to cold weather? I thankfully live near a truck stop [apparently this is good since the diesel there is "better"].

Regards

sebring95

The diesel engines themselves are still made in Germany. I think the only bodystyle still actually made in Germany is the jetta wagon. All the rest are made in Mexico. They're all made with the same parts though.

I think the biggest issue with these cars are the little things. VW's have always had little problems, although a 2005 should have a lot of the things worked out. When I say that, I mean a lot of the parts that were problematic early in the life of these cars (this bodystyle started in '99) have been improved. For example, the early power window clips were nylon which would break. The new ones are metal. Also, I had to replaced the power mirror knob on my '00 because it broke. The replacement is a better design.

I don't think you'll have any problems with the mileage you're expecting. I'm about to turn 100k miles on mine and have only had a few small problems. Most of which was covered under warranty. The only part I've bought as a repair was a $30 power mirror switch.

thepod28

Great stuff. Right now my daily driver is a 1995 Ford Taurus SHO. Believe it or not, the thing still can outpace most cars on the road. Of course, the engine and tranny are not Ford but Yamaha. Thing is, the SHO drinks gas pretty heavily. I do 325 clicks on 55 liters. I can hear the TDI people laughing at me as their cars could probably do close to triple the mileage on 55 liters of diesel.

Thanks man. Good post. I'm gonna think it through. Still haven't test driven one. I'm used to fast cars so I'm hoping I'm not overly disappointed. Frankly, as long as the car can do 130 clicks per hour I'm happy. 0-to-60 who cares? My fast and the furious days are behind me.