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Comments
As far as the information panel, this displays both fuel and temp. Make sure it is not off. There is a setting to disable the info display.
As for the timing belt, you really need to look at your owners manuals. In the past, the automatics required a timing belt more frequently than the manual. I'm thinking they're rated for 90k miles on your model, but you need to check the manual. The dealer will probably tell you evey 60k miles and charge you $600, but that's not likely what the book says. If you don't have a manual, get one. Everything is detailed in there, and that's pretty much all that's necessary. You also need a fuel filter about every 20k miles.
As for the tranny issues, I dunno. I've not had much personal experience with them, but from what I've gathered they are a bit quirky and generally either crash during the warranty period, or last forever. A neighbor has one with about 150k miles on it. He also averages around 40mpg, which is normal from what I've seen. The manuals get about 5mpg more.
The AUTOMATIC xmaission has one less electric heater because the tranny adds heat to the engine coolant via a heat-exchanger.
Hoping its not the turbo! Any suggestions? Planning to take it in to Guildford Volkswagen in Surrey BC--had heard they were pretty good, but getting tired of what seems to be the "replace this, try that-maybe this will work" expensive trial and error stuff. Anyone had this problem before?
Thanks, Jklott
Or the guage really could be messed up.
Often a spray-on degreser and a scrub brush (old toothbrush) will do the trick. Then hose everything off.
I have used MANY degreaseers over the years and I find I prefer the biodegradable ones that are "activated" with cold water.... beleive-it-or-not, they work just as well as most of the other degreasers without desolving the plastic/rubber parts in the process.
If it is leaking as much as you suggest, then the leak will make itself apparent very quickly. It is possible that your problem is simply that the oil-filter was not installed properly. It is very common to forget to REMOVE one of the old O-rings before installing the new ones..... doubled-up O-rings have been known to cause oil leakage.
Perhaps you should try just replacing the oil-filter. They are available from Wallmart (Says FRAM on the box.... but is a REAL german MANN filter) It comes with 2 O-rings that must be replaced.
Di
thanks for your time in reading and possibly responding to this. All is appreciated.
What is a water separator, and how do I drain the water out of it?
Like I said before, there are very specific, step-by-step instructions available that can tell you how to isolate the problem.
Great MPG... 48 to 49
You should find it in Wallmart and it iis available in a 5-quart containers which is good for one change in the TDI. Wallmart also carries your oil-filter. Although it says "Fram" on the box, if you look inside and read the end of the filter element, it will say "Mann" which is the very same German-made filter you can get from any VW dealership. (Fram just re-packages the German filters instead of trying to make them to the exacting German standards )
The good news is that you only have to change the oil/filter in your TDI every 10,000 miles. ("Mobil 1 Truck&SUV 5W40" oil is actually good for a LOT longer than that)
I would rule-out the glow-plugs in this case becaue they do not even come into play after the engine is warmed above 40C. This leaves several other possible things.
I would 1st suggest that you verify that you are using the proper amount of Diesel additive each time you fill up.
Also, consider that VW has changed the design of the engine-temperture sensor due to issues. If the onboard computer does not know what the correct engine temperture is, then it cannot precisely meter the proper amount of fuel. The" new style" engine-temperture sensor is colored GREEN so it is easy to see if you have the updated one installed.
Brake booster failed around 23K miles. Pedal sunk on highway. Very scary. Repaired under warranty.
Original brake pads needed replacement (all four) at approximately 25K. Bought OE pads and replaced myself. Around $120 in parts as I recall. Funny, the pads I installed still have plenty of life almost 50K miles later.
Glovebox handle fell off around 30K miles. Original cupholder broke around same time. I griped to dealer (at length) and they replaced both even though warranty had expired.
Coolant temp sensor failed at approx. 45K (out of the 24K warranty). Bought sensor online and replaced myself. Cost around $30 if I recall correctly.
Found a large spring rolling on floor under driver's seat. Had no idea where it came from. Turns out it's to assist height adjustment on the seat. It mounts to plastic eyes that get brittle and break. Seat still functions fine so I haven't even bothered. Still ticks me off, though.
Front cupholder broke around 50K miles. Bought replacement online for $80 and replaced myself.
Car lost a lot of power around 50K. Turned out to be failed mass airflow sensor (MAF). Bought a new one for $90 and installed myself.
Air conditioner compressor clutch failed at approx 60K miles, in 100 deg. heat of course. Clutch was shredded. Priced replacement clutch @ over $350. Bought entire compressor assembly (including clutch) instead, at VW dealer, for around $250. Doesn't make sense, I know. Did the work myself, including evac and recharge of system. Replaced accessory belt at same time.
Driver's power window failed 2 weeks ago. Window fell into door. Dealer repaired under VW's extended 7 year warranty for windows. Dealer went ahead and pre-emptively modified front passenger side window mechanism at same time, under warranty.
Some interior trim such as the power window switch bezel and the like has worn pretty severely. It seems to be coated in something that's not very durable. Anyway, it is sluffing off. Not a functional problem but annoying nonetheless.
Things that were not the car's fault entirely:
Hit a speed bump a bit too fast and took out the oil pan. The pan is very low in this car. Oil everywhere. Engine was unharmed, thank goodness. Of course, the plastic shield under the engine was toast. Luckily, I didn't take out the front valence that a lot of owners find dragging the ground. Cost me about $500 all told.
General maintenance, excluding fuel, oil, and filters, and tires:
Timing belt, rollers, tensioner replaced just before 60K miles @ approx $800. Paid a pro to do this, I know my limits.
So, my out of pocket expense for wear and tear and things NOT covered by warranty has been around $2370 (excluding oil and filters) in 5 years of ownership. Let me say that the number would be at least $1000 more if I hadn't done a lot of the labor myself. I can do some things, though, so I do. I expect, but do not hope, that maint. costs will accelerate as the car ages.
While I can't fault the car for things I contributed to, I do think a more substantial skid plate should be used from the factory. Many owners have experienced the oil pan destruction. It's such an issue, in fact, that one can buy an aftermarket skid plate that's made of aluminum instead of plastic. I WILL vehemently complain about the marginal quality of some of the interior items as stated above, and the premature failure of some major components such as the brake booster, A/C compressor, various sensors, etc.
All this being said, I like the car. It still drives like new. The paint finish is still glossy and the car looks like new (when clean). The power is excellent for a car that routinely turns in 42 mpg in the city. That means nothing, however, if you're spending the dollars somewhere else in other maint. Friends who have Honda Accords are chugging along w/very little out of pocket and do not take nearly as good care of their cars as I do mine. $2370 buys one helluva lot of gasoline!
If you like the car, buy it. The car has more character, IMO, than Accords or Camrys. The powerplant is an engineering marvel in my opinion. If you don't care about such things, don't buy the car just because of the mileage and today's high fuel prices. Those reasons may trick you into some false economies. This is not a trouble-free car !
PS: I have always serviced my car per schedule or better. I use Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 every 7-10K miles, Mann oil filters, OE air and fuel filters. All parts replaced have been OE. I expect the engine to be capable of lasting 300K+ miles with routine maint. Not as confident about the rest of the car...
My 2002 TDI... TDI must stand for "trouble driving it." In the less than 3 years I have had it the following things have gone wrong:
1) Fuel line has cracked twice & been replaced twice (under warranty)
2) Radio died 2 months after purchase - replaced (under warranty)
3) Engine cover fell off the undercarriage on road trip - dragging on ground. Not under warranty - they said I must have hit something... $250+ repair
4) Seat warmer burned through seat & singed husband's pants. Really. Replaced under warranty
5) Turn signal went haywire shortly after getting car - would blink double time. Wiring problem, under warranty.
6) Speaker in door went out - wiring problem. Fixed under warranty
7) Several Glow Plug & Glow Plug Harness issues - all under warranty
8) Engine light came on RED twice in dead cold of winter - had car TOWED to dealer the first time only to find it was an electrical error. No problem with car. I drove it there myself the second time. (Not sure, but I think I paid for the towing.)
9) One of my keys only works when within 2 inches of the driver door - got a new battery ($4.95) but it made no difference
10) the other key's metal loop to attach to a key ring broke off after only a few months. Keys not under warranty, so have not been replaced (cost is ridiculous)
11) Front passenger seat repeatedly becomes jammed - can't move it. Dealership can't seem to fix it.
12) Seems that my electrical outlet (for phone charger) went dead last week
13) Accessory: bought the bra for the car & the thing is nearly in shreds underneath. Hasn't held up at all! Elastic hook strap broke within a month or two of putting on the car. It's gone down hill from there.
14) Accessory: Tray for the back of the wagon has warped & become mishapen due to heat/sun. Occurred within first few months of having it.
15) Oil pan had a crack & was leaking oil - I believe the damage occurred during oil change at dealer as I noticed it soon after. They would not pay for it & suggested I damaged it by hitting something while driving. Out of pocket expense here too.
16) Beware - I spilled a little BUG SPRAY on the plastic interior underneath the driver's arm rest & it sort of melted it. While it makes me wonder what the heck it does to my skin, I also think that seems an odd outcome for a car interior.
17) Oh yeah, a knob also fell off one of the audio controls. Reattached under warranty.
Really, I am not a crazy driver at all, despite the dealership's frequent accusations. I think the track record on this vehicle says enough!
So, despite how much I love how it handles & rides, how much I love the awesome mileage, how much I even love the look of the compact wagon... I am selling it before the warranty is up!!
I wish VW would give me my money back. What a hassle! :sick: :lemon:
I had posted about 2 years ago on this forum about my rear brake pads needed to be replaced only after about 65,000 km. I thought that was quite strange as I had never owned a car with 4 wheel disc brakes where the backs wore earlier than the front.
Anyhow, I had them replaced for less than $200 CDN (only replaced pads - did nothing to the rear rotors).
As of today, I have 150,000 km on my TDI. I am still on the original front pads! I would estimate that they have at least 20% life left. I am still on the replacement back pads which now have over 80,000 km on them, however, they have caught up to the fronts meaning all four will have to be done likely at the same time when the fronts finally wear.
I recall someone on this site advising me that the back pads were made from a softer compound and I certainly believe that.
I can understand your frustration with your brakes - the only reason I replied is that if I had to pick one single thing (beyond the incredible mileage I get from my TDI), it would be that I have never owner a car where the front pads when beyond 115,000 km, ever. The fact that I have 150,000 on my front pads simply amazes me - and I probably might get another 30 - 40,000 km out of them yet.
Apart from brakes, I have had some minor things go wrong with the car (ie glow plug harness, mass air flow sensor) plus I had to do that famous timing belt job. These concerned me at first but overall my car seems to be very reliable and the few bucks I have spent repairing it I will earn back many times over in mileage + longevity. My car runs as good today with 150,000 km on it and I fully expect to get it up to 500,000 km. The most I have ever put on a car previously was a Mazda B2200 which had 220,000 km before I let it go.
I guess some of us have better luck than others - but I would buy another TDI in a hearbeat - but would probably upsize to the Passat for more room.
We don't disagree. I too would buy another TDI - and like you, I'd move up to the Passat. I'm fond of the car and appreciate things about it that are not important to a lot of people. I also don't mind doing my own work. However, my post was intended to inform folks that there are many potential costs associated with the car - many of which are not insignificant - and that a decision based solely on its fuel economy is misguided from a financial perspective.
Keep it between the lines,
Enchilada
AND....at the moment, VW seems to have no plans to put the diesel in the New Passat when it finally starts to arrive in the fall. I think that will eventually happen, but not before model year 2007, when low-sulfur diesel will be available nationwide. They apparently do not want to certify the current TDI in the Passat, and then turn around and do it again for a new engine that they have planned that relies on the low-sulfur fuel to meet emissions standards.
For the time being, the few current-gen Passats that are left at dealerships with TDI engines are all there will be for about two years. Having driven both, if you aren't carrying more than 4 people, I actually prefer the new Jetta to the old Passat, styling notwithstanding [I won't go to that topic].
Seems it would be alot more fun than the automatic. Checkedout the Beetle and Jetta at the dealer yesterday and even the sales manager was trying to tell me I meant the Tiptronic transmission as the only transmission that gave you the option of not requiring shifting.
Thanks, Rob.
The manual transmission is still a manual transmission. The DSG, when offered, is the automatic option. When you buy, for example, a new A5 Jetta with the "automatic", you are getting the DSG.
And a fine piece of work it is. I've driven the Audi A3 with it, and it is fabulous - completely seamless and unobtrusive as an automatic, and if you want to shift for yourself, faster than you could ever change gears with a clutch and gear lever.
DO NOT put in the normal stuff you find at Autozone or Pep Boys, i.e., Prestone or the like.
BEST compromise? I find about 32-35psi is comfortable enough, and gives a good compromise between ride, handling, efficiency. I do like a rather stiff ride though, so it may not feel comfortable to you.
I've never had tires wear funny running 32-25psi either.
I think VW recommends 26psi which is bogus IMHO. Car handles horrible with that setting and the stock suspension.
I too think we are on the same page - we both love the car and would buy another (although bigger) one! The new version (2006) of the Jetta is definitely bigger but I personally don't prefer the styling to 2001 version - so I would still go for the Passat.
When I posted to this site a couple of years ago, my discussion was virtually the same as yours. Essentially, I said that the savings in fuel go right back into vehicle maintenance - so like your comment, I was implying that the savings are somewhat misguided from a financial perspective.
However, after another 2 years of driving, I am convinced that the longevity of the car is significantly superior t o anything else in its class. So, should one be ok with driving an older car with many km on it, as opposed to having something new every 5 or six years, I believe there is an overall savings (incuding the significant cost of maintenance) when you factor in the cost of buying a new car to replace your current one.
Take a Japanese model (or a North American car) for instance. Yes, the maintenance might be cheaper than compared to the TDI - but on average, will it go over 500,000 km as conistently as a TDI? You would probably be replacing it sooner than the TDI, and when you factor that cost in, I believe you are saving in the long run. I have actually heard that the TDI engine, properly maintained ofcourse, can do alot more than 500,000 km.
My Jetta cost me $29,000 when I bought it in October, 2001 (CDN, all options + all taxes). I put about 40,000 km per year. If I drive it 12 years, I will get very close to that 500,000 km figure, as an example. During the first 150,000 km, my maintenance costs (excluding oil changes, tires + fuel) are probably in the range of about $2,400 CDN (timing belt, mass air flow sensor, ignition switch, glow plug harness, sway bar bushings, rear brake pads, fuel filters). If I keep spending for maintenance at that rate (and I am sure I will!), I still will not need to replace the car until it is at least 12 years old (probably even longer). Pretty much any conventional gas engine car will need to be replaced sooner than the TDI (and how how will it perform after it has 300,000 + km on it?). Plus, we must not forget that the body will take you to 12 years with any rust problems based on VW's warranty.
So, my thoughts are like yours in that anyone purchasing a TDI should consider all maintenance costs with the TDI (and they are significant) as opposed to only thinking about the fuel savings. However, I think they should also factor in replacement cost based on the service life of the car - I think that would overall make it a cheaper car to own. If, however, someone only plans to own the car for 5 or 6 years and replace it soon before its service life expires (because many people simply want to get something "new" after this period of time), then the savings on fuel will all be lost into the higher maintenance costs and it won't be a cheaper car to own in my opinion. In any event - it is still a great car to drive!!