I have only filled up twice in my new TDI. Once was 12.34 gallons. As far as the information panel, this displays both fuel and temp. Make sure it is not off. There is a setting to disable the info display.
You can go 10k miles between oil changes using synthetic oil. I would suggest finding Mobil-Delvac 1 5W-40 (as oppose to the plain mobile 0W-40). I have run this since the beginning (at 120k miles now) and have tested the oil a couple of times. Once I even went 15k miles between changes and the oil was still fine.
As for the timing belt, you really need to look at your owners manuals. In the past, the automatics required a timing belt more frequently than the manual. I'm thinking they're rated for 90k miles on your model, but you need to check the manual. The dealer will probably tell you evey 60k miles and charge you $600, but that's not likely what the book says. If you don't have a manual, get one. Everything is detailed in there, and that's pretty much all that's necessary. You also need a fuel filter about every 20k miles.
As for the tranny issues, I dunno. I've not had much personal experience with them, but from what I've gathered they are a bit quirky and generally either crash during the warranty period, or last forever. A neighbor has one with about 150k miles on it. He also averages around 40mpg, which is normal from what I've seen. The manuals get about 5mpg more.
Hey all... I just had a Check Engine light go on today, so I took it to Auto Zone where they read the code for free , and found out it was a problem with my EGR. The Auto Zone guy said I just needed to clean the EGR, which I did. And it was quite dirty. My problem is now figuring out how to reset my computer to get the Check Engine light to turn off. I disconnected the negative terminal on my battery for a few minutes, but all that did was reset my clock and trip odometer, and the auto-up function on my windows, which started working again after about 25 minutes of driving the car. So how do I get that danged check engine light to go out? Or do I need to do more work on the car first? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
I went to the Mobile 1 web site and put in my vehicle info and selected ultimate for the oil and it suggested Mobile 1 Synthetic, 5W-40 for SUV's and Trucks, gas or diesel motors and it listed all of the specs on the back that met all the requirements for vw diesels. I need to get an owners manual since mine was not in the glove box when I bought it. I figured the dealer would try to get me to change it right now thats whey I didnt want to take it in yet. I will check in the manual to see what it suggests. As far as the tranny goes, I will bring it in and see what the dealer says since it will be covered under warranty. Thanks for your time and info.
I have a 2001 Jetta TDI with 98K. A week ago the glow plug light started flashing. It goes out when the engine is turned off and comes back on 5 to 15 minutes later. The car starts and runs fine. I am in texas and it is plenty hot, so am not using the glow plugs. The manual says that a flashing gp light indicates something is a miss in the ECU. I took it to AutoZone and they plugged in the diagnostic meter. They got a passed (no code). The car was setting still with the light flashing. I disconnected the battery hoping that it would reset the flashing light if the problem had gone away. The light has continued to flash. I have noticed that the cruise control won't engage when the light is flashing, but if I engage the cruise control before the light starts flashing, the gp light never flashes as long as the cruise control is engaged. It resumes flashing The next time the engine is started. I am assuming it has something to do with an engine or vehicle speed sensor. Any suggestions? Otherwise there is no indication of a problem.
The 2005.5 A5 Jetta TDI has an electric heater element included to supplement the engine heat (or lack therof) However, I am in So. Florida and doubt I will need that feature often.
Hi there. We have had EGR valve replaced, emissions stuff done, timing belt done, only used proper synthetic oil--have spent 2100 bucks in last 60 days. The shudder/miss started out being every once in a while, into the shop--AutoFolks in Langley BC to find the problem--and now Jetta is parked basically, because it shudders/stutters so much-try to accelerate and is a miss-miss-miss-miss type of pattern, then picks up again, and then a few minutes later the stuttering again. Hoping its not the turbo! Any suggestions? Planning to take it in to Guildford Volkswagen in Surrey BC--had heard they were pretty good, but getting tired of what seems to be the "replace this, try that-maybe this will work" expensive trial and error stuff. Anyone had this problem before?
I own an '02 Jetta TDI and enjoy the performance so far, it certainly has much more pick up and go for a four cylinder than I thought. Plus the mileage 40mpg hwy and 30mpg city is great. I have one complaint, the interior seems to be degrading quite quickly. Nobody hardly ever uses the back seat and it is already starting to get torn up. I did buy it used though, perhaps that is it.
I've got an '00 with 120k miles and the interior is showing its age, but not so much the seats. They've held up quite well, cloth still looks good. However, the interior rubber grab handles and such are a rather soft material and have sort of worn a bit. I don't have any complaints though, I'm pretty hard on a vehicle.
I just bought an automatic 2000 VW Jetta TDI not long ago and today was the first time I experienced what seems to be a major problem. When starting the car, I placed it in reverse and it did not want to go into reverse. When giving the car a little more gas, it finally jolted in reverse (with a loud clunk). The car runs in "D" drive with no problems and shifts very smoothly (in drive). When coming to a stop I placed the car in reverse and it had no problems. When I arrived at home, I tried to reproduce the problem again, and I did... placed it in reverse, gave it a little gas and then it jolt/clunked backwards. Once the car jolted in reverse, it would drive in reverse with no problems. The only thing I can think of is that took the car up into the mountains last weekend and on my way back down into the valley, I shifted the car into 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd gear to slow down the car instead of using the brakes. The RPM never went above 3100 when I did this. I don't think this caused my reverse problem, but not sure. When I am in drive, the car runs very smooth and strong. Could my transmission be going out? Am I looking at $1,000+ repair at the VW dealer? Please advise...
Have you found any answers to this problem??? I have the same problem,and code on mine (P1550). It has been a problem for the last year, and yes, I have half the power/lose power up a hill, and it will click on. I have not checked my MAF sensor, But a mechanic that repaird my front bearings said all my stuff checks out on the sensor end.......I am going to try unplugging it like everyone on this sight says, and see what happins. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!!!!!! Thanks, Jklott
I am not talking about engine block warming. I am speaking of a supplemental electric heater element built into the heater core area for passenger compartment heat in colder weather.
I have a 2000 tdi with 63k. I am having a decent amount of oil pooling up under the front (closest to the front bumper) of the engine. It is pooling up right under the oil filter housing. I am on a tight budget and will be trying to do most of the work myself. As far as dignosing the problem area, are there other parts of the engine that might be leaking there? What is the best way to determain where the leak is coming from? I know I don't want to open up more then I need to. Thanks
Hey all. I have an '05 Jetta TDI wagon with 5600 miles. The last two times I filled the car up was when the fuel gage registered a 1/4 tank remaining. Both times I put 14.25 gallons of fuel in a tank that is supposed to hold 14.50 gallons. If I really was that low on fuel, shouldn't the low fuel light have come on? I have an appointment with the dealership next week to check, what they call, the calibration. This is my first diesel and my first VW. Has anyone else had this problem?
The tanks can actually hold closer to 16.5 gallons, although you usually have to "vent" the tank to get that much in. It's possible where you're fueling has a nozzle that is "venting" the tank for you so you could pump some extra in. Unless someone removed the venting button inside the filler neck, which is possible. Most of us have removed the button so that tank will self-vent allowing for a couple extra gallons.
To find a leak, the first thing to do is to make everthing squeeky-clean. Also, you will not get so grungy while working on the vehicle.
Often a spray-on degreser and a scrub brush (old toothbrush) will do the trick. Then hose everything off.
I have used MANY degreaseers over the years and I find I prefer the biodegradable ones that are "activated" with cold water.... beleive-it-or-not, they work just as well as most of the other degreasers without desolving the plastic/rubber parts in the process.
If it is leaking as much as you suggest, then the leak will make itself apparent very quickly. It is possible that your problem is simply that the oil-filter was not installed properly. It is very common to forget to REMOVE one of the old O-rings before installing the new ones..... doubled-up O-rings have been known to cause oil leakage.
Perhaps you should try just replacing the oil-filter. They are available from Wallmart (Says FRAM on the box.... but is a REAL german MANN filter) It comes with 2 O-rings that must be replaced.
That may be what the problem is. A couple months ago I was told to use that button on the neck so the gas wouldn't foam up as much and the tank would be easier to fill. I'm still taking the car in on Monday to make sure everything's OK though. Would hate to run the car out of fuel. From what I've been told, diesels are a real pain when that happens.
I own a Jetta TDI 97. I have had it about 3 years now and it is starting to give me a headache...i seem to have a new problem every couple of months and i have tried numerous time to get it fixed...im not exactly sure what to do with it anymore...it is blowing out large amounts of black smoke from the exhaust(not ur average amount), the engine light is on (been on for 2yrs already), car runs funny loss of power, sometimes when i am driving i loose complete power but the engine still runs and when i restart the car it runs again but the glow plug light comes on (keep in mind that i have replaced glow plug light). then sometimes the car will run and the glow plug light will turn off, sometimes when i turn my car on and let the engine warm up my speedometer goes up by itself (like when u push on the gas pedal), and now my car is barely running it has little to no power. when i took it into the VWdealership in Santa monica they said they were not able to locate the problem and said it could be my engine control unit...then i took it to another place and they gave me other reasons...i am totally confused and i am running out of money to keep this car going.....PLEASE if anyone knows of any knowledgeable, trustworthy mechanics in LA please let me know immediately or just any useful info would help...
Hey guys, Just bought this Jetta TDI, Drove it about 900 miles and Now theres a light on, looks like a yellow engine, the Manual says its emissions related, seems like its way down on power as well, anybody have any suggestions or experience with this problem, Thanks alot
I had a check engine light come on and so I had a shop read the code for me. They gave me 16764-Glow Plug Problem, Q6 occurs intermittantly. So the first thing I did was oehm test between the glow plugs and ground. No problem. Then I put an amp clamp around around the 1st plug, it read 10amps, and then the clamp around the wires that run to all the cylinders, 40amps. So everything seems fine with the Glow Plugs. so what could be the problem??? Could it be the coolant glow plugs that are the problem? Would they show the same error code? And also...where are the coolant glow plugs? I have no clue. thanks for your time in reading and possibly responding to this. All is appreciated.
I was having this problem recenlty with my A3. I changed all the hoses coming from the N75 and that fixed the problem. Did the whole job for about 10 bucks. Working great for now.
I bought a new 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon and I have almost 5000 miles on it. I want to do my own routine maintenance. The owners manual says that when I change the oil and oil filter, that I am supposed to drain the water from the water separator.
What is a water separator, and how do I drain the water out of it?
I have a 2001 Jetta TDI, and a couple weeks ago my check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone to have it read, and they told me it was EGR Flow code, and told me to clean the EGR Valve, which I did. So today I took my car over to my mechanic to delete the code, and about 15 minutes after he did that, the light came back on. I took it back to him, and he ran the VAGCOM again, and said it was a problem with too much air flow to the engine, which will not harm the engine, but will keep the car from passing state emissions inspection. My inspection is due this month, and he told me it would take him a couple hours of diagnostics to figure out the problem, at $60 an hour. My question is, has anybody had this problem, or does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem might be?? I don't have the $120-$180 it might take to figure out what the problem is, much less however much it might cost to fix it. Any ideas?? Anything I can try to do myself, with very little knowledge of the TDI engine? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!! :confuse:
Water seperator is part of fuel filter, theres a little white knob on the bottom you need to loosten it and let the water out, i find its easier to pull it up or out forst, make sure you fill the filter forst, makes starting easier
Most glow-plug related problems have been traced to the WIRE HARNESS or connectors. If you search the internet, you will find all kinds of info about ways to troubleshoot, isolate and fix your problem.
One possible fix for your glow plug problem is the brake switch under the dash. If the glow plug starts to blink after the motor is running, the brake switch may be bad.
To be more specific about my last append... the GLOWPLUG WIRE HARNESS is what I was referring to. The connectors at each glowplug tend to corrode and if they do not make good contact, then the diagnostics flag that as a bad glowplug.
Like I said before, there are very specific, step-by-step instructions available that can tell you how to isolate the problem.
Have 04 TDI also. No such soot problem, but having annoying electrial problems. Radio going into "SAFE" mode, mileage resetting. Has 53K miles. Hope not a sign of more serious problems
I'm a hapless college student who is trying to save money and put myself through school so I apologize for the simple question....what type of oil should i put in my 2002 Jetta TDI?
Your 2002 TDI must have synthetic oil that meets the VW specifications. There are very few oils available in the USA that meet the spec. Perhaps the very best oil available for your TDI is "Mobil 1 Truck&SUV 5W40"
You should find it in Wallmart and it iis available in a 5-quart containers which is good for one change in the TDI. Wallmart also carries your oil-filter. Although it says "Fram" on the box, if you look inside and read the end of the filter element, it will say "Mann" which is the very same German-made filter you can get from any VW dealership. (Fram just re-packages the German filters instead of trying to make them to the exacting German standards )
The good news is that you only have to change the oil/filter in your TDI every 10,000 miles. ("Mobil 1 Truck&SUV 5W40" oil is actually good for a LOT longer than that)
I live in the Tampa Bay area, so you know what the climate here is like. When I get into my 99 Jetta TDI (85k miles) in the mornings, with the engine cold it starts like a champ. While driving for awhile and I make a stop, starting the engine back up when its hot is more difficult. I have never had a problem with it actually starting, but I have to crank it quite a bit longer, and it really sounds like its struggling. Could my glow plugs need changing? Maybe the battery is weak when hot? Any ideas?
You dont say how far is "While driving for awhile and I make a stop". Keep in mind that a "partially warmed" engine is perhaps the trickest thing for a startup. This is because the designers can easilly accomidate a "cold start" or a "hot start"...but a "partially warmed" start is almost imposible to predict all the variables.
I would rule-out the glow-plugs in this case becaue they do not even come into play after the engine is warmed above 40C. This leaves several other possible things.
I would 1st suggest that you verify that you are using the proper amount of Diesel additive each time you fill up.
Also, consider that VW has changed the design of the engine-temperture sensor due to issues. If the onboard computer does not know what the correct engine temperture is, then it cannot precisely meter the proper amount of fuel. The" new style" engine-temperture sensor is colored GREEN so it is easy to see if you have the updated one installed.
I bought a 2001 Jetta GLS TDI new in 2000. Now has 74K miles on it. Problems experienced that are car's fault:
Brake booster failed around 23K miles. Pedal sunk on highway. Very scary. Repaired under warranty.
Original brake pads needed replacement (all four) at approximately 25K. Bought OE pads and replaced myself. Around $120 in parts as I recall. Funny, the pads I installed still have plenty of life almost 50K miles later.
Glovebox handle fell off around 30K miles. Original cupholder broke around same time. I griped to dealer (at length) and they replaced both even though warranty had expired.
Coolant temp sensor failed at approx. 45K (out of the 24K warranty). Bought sensor online and replaced myself. Cost around $30 if I recall correctly.
Found a large spring rolling on floor under driver's seat. Had no idea where it came from. Turns out it's to assist height adjustment on the seat. It mounts to plastic eyes that get brittle and break. Seat still functions fine so I haven't even bothered. Still ticks me off, though.
Front cupholder broke around 50K miles. Bought replacement online for $80 and replaced myself.
Car lost a lot of power around 50K. Turned out to be failed mass airflow sensor (MAF). Bought a new one for $90 and installed myself.
Air conditioner compressor clutch failed at approx 60K miles, in 100 deg. heat of course. Clutch was shredded. Priced replacement clutch @ over $350. Bought entire compressor assembly (including clutch) instead, at VW dealer, for around $250. Doesn't make sense, I know. Did the work myself, including evac and recharge of system. Replaced accessory belt at same time.
Driver's power window failed 2 weeks ago. Window fell into door. Dealer repaired under VW's extended 7 year warranty for windows. Dealer went ahead and pre-emptively modified front passenger side window mechanism at same time, under warranty.
Some interior trim such as the power window switch bezel and the like has worn pretty severely. It seems to be coated in something that's not very durable. Anyway, it is sluffing off. Not a functional problem but annoying nonetheless.
Things that were not the car's fault entirely:
Hit a speed bump a bit too fast and took out the oil pan. The pan is very low in this car. Oil everywhere. Engine was unharmed, thank goodness. Of course, the plastic shield under the engine was toast. Luckily, I didn't take out the front valence that a lot of owners find dragging the ground. Cost me about $500 all told.
General maintenance, excluding fuel, oil, and filters, and tires:
Timing belt, rollers, tensioner replaced just before 60K miles @ approx $800. Paid a pro to do this, I know my limits.
So, my out of pocket expense for wear and tear and things NOT covered by warranty has been around $2370 (excluding oil and filters) in 5 years of ownership. Let me say that the number would be at least $1000 more if I hadn't done a lot of the labor myself. I can do some things, though, so I do. I expect, but do not hope, that maint. costs will accelerate as the car ages.
While I can't fault the car for things I contributed to, I do think a more substantial skid plate should be used from the factory. Many owners have experienced the oil pan destruction. It's such an issue, in fact, that one can buy an aftermarket skid plate that's made of aluminum instead of plastic. I WILL vehemently complain about the marginal quality of some of the interior items as stated above, and the premature failure of some major components such as the brake booster, A/C compressor, various sensors, etc.
All this being said, I like the car. It still drives like new. The paint finish is still glossy and the car looks like new (when clean). The power is excellent for a car that routinely turns in 42 mpg in the city. That means nothing, however, if you're spending the dollars somewhere else in other maint. Friends who have Honda Accords are chugging along w/very little out of pocket and do not take nearly as good care of their cars as I do mine. $2370 buys one helluva lot of gasoline!
If you like the car, buy it. The car has more character, IMO, than Accords or Camrys. The powerplant is an engineering marvel in my opinion. If you don't care about such things, don't buy the car just because of the mileage and today's high fuel prices. Those reasons may trick you into some false economies. This is not a trouble-free car !
PS: I have always serviced my car per schedule or better. I use Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 every 7-10K miles, Mann oil filters, OE air and fuel filters. All parts replaced have been OE. I expect the engine to be capable of lasting 300K+ miles with routine maint. Not as confident about the rest of the car...
Just to add to the list of problems people have had:
My 2002 TDI... TDI must stand for "trouble driving it." In the less than 3 years I have had it the following things have gone wrong:
1) Fuel line has cracked twice & been replaced twice (under warranty) 2) Radio died 2 months after purchase - replaced (under warranty) 3) Engine cover fell off the undercarriage on road trip - dragging on ground. Not under warranty - they said I must have hit something... $250+ repair 4) Seat warmer burned through seat & singed husband's pants. Really. Replaced under warranty 5) Turn signal went haywire shortly after getting car - would blink double time. Wiring problem, under warranty. 6) Speaker in door went out - wiring problem. Fixed under warranty 7) Several Glow Plug & Glow Plug Harness issues - all under warranty 8) Engine light came on RED twice in dead cold of winter - had car TOWED to dealer the first time only to find it was an electrical error. No problem with car. I drove it there myself the second time. (Not sure, but I think I paid for the towing.) 9) One of my keys only works when within 2 inches of the driver door - got a new battery ($4.95) but it made no difference 10) the other key's metal loop to attach to a key ring broke off after only a few months. Keys not under warranty, so have not been replaced (cost is ridiculous) 11) Front passenger seat repeatedly becomes jammed - can't move it. Dealership can't seem to fix it. 12) Seems that my electrical outlet (for phone charger) went dead last week 13) Accessory: bought the bra for the car & the thing is nearly in shreds underneath. Hasn't held up at all! Elastic hook strap broke within a month or two of putting on the car. It's gone down hill from there. 14) Accessory: Tray for the back of the wagon has warped & become mishapen due to heat/sun. Occurred within first few months of having it. 15) Oil pan had a crack & was leaking oil - I believe the damage occurred during oil change at dealer as I noticed it soon after. They would not pay for it & suggested I damaged it by hitting something while driving. Out of pocket expense here too. 16) Beware - I spilled a little BUG SPRAY on the plastic interior underneath the driver's arm rest & it sort of melted it. While it makes me wonder what the heck it does to my skin, I also think that seems an odd outcome for a car interior. 17) Oh yeah, a knob also fell off one of the audio controls. Reattached under warranty.
Really, I am not a crazy driver at all, despite the dealership's frequent accusations. I think the track record on this vehicle says enough!
So, despite how much I love how it handles & rides, how much I love the awesome mileage, how much I even love the look of the compact wagon... I am selling it before the warranty is up!!
I wish VW would give me my money back. What a hassle! :sick: :lemon:
I had posted about 2 years ago on this forum about my rear brake pads needed to be replaced only after about 65,000 km. I thought that was quite strange as I had never owned a car with 4 wheel disc brakes where the backs wore earlier than the front.
Anyhow, I had them replaced for less than $200 CDN (only replaced pads - did nothing to the rear rotors).
As of today, I have 150,000 km on my TDI. I am still on the original front pads! I would estimate that they have at least 20% life left. I am still on the replacement back pads which now have over 80,000 km on them, however, they have caught up to the fronts meaning all four will have to be done likely at the same time when the fronts finally wear.
I recall someone on this site advising me that the back pads were made from a softer compound and I certainly believe that.
I can understand your frustration with your brakes - the only reason I replied is that if I had to pick one single thing (beyond the incredible mileage I get from my TDI), it would be that I have never owner a car where the front pads when beyond 115,000 km, ever. The fact that I have 150,000 on my front pads simply amazes me - and I probably might get another 30 - 40,000 km out of them yet.
Apart from brakes, I have had some minor things go wrong with the car (ie glow plug harness, mass air flow sensor) plus I had to do that famous timing belt job. These concerned me at first but overall my car seems to be very reliable and the few bucks I have spent repairing it I will earn back many times over in mileage + longevity. My car runs as good today with 150,000 km on it and I fully expect to get it up to 500,000 km. The most I have ever put on a car previously was a Mazda B2200 which had 220,000 km before I let it go.
I guess some of us have better luck than others - but I would buy another TDI in a hearbeat - but would probably upsize to the Passat for more room.
We don't disagree. I too would buy another TDI - and like you, I'd move up to the Passat. I'm fond of the car and appreciate things about it that are not important to a lot of people. I also don't mind doing my own work. However, my post was intended to inform folks that there are many potential costs associated with the car - many of which are not insignificant - and that a decision based solely on its fuel economy is misguided from a financial perspective.
Look at Amsoil and Redline racing oil. Also Lucas makes some good products. I think you can get all on-line at summit racing. All of these products are significantly better that synthetic oil you get a WalMart. And Summit has free shipping on orders over 50.00 so you only ending up spending about 1.75 more per quart. Good luck.
....if you like the diesel in a VW, but need more room than the pre-gen Jetta, you really ought to check out the new [A5] Jetta. It has as much room inside as the current-gen Passat [minus maybe an inch of width], and a huge trunk [much bigger than the current Passat]. Diesels are just becoming available in this car, and they are trickling out to the dealerships in small numbers, but I've tried one and can tell you the car is a complete improvement over the current Jetta in just about every conceivable way.
AND....at the moment, VW seems to have no plans to put the diesel in the New Passat when it finally starts to arrive in the fall. I think that will eventually happen, but not before model year 2007, when low-sulfur diesel will be available nationwide. They apparently do not want to certify the current TDI in the Passat, and then turn around and do it again for a new engine that they have planned that relies on the low-sulfur fuel to meet emissions standards.
For the time being, the few current-gen Passats that are left at dealerships with TDI engines are all there will be for about two years. Having driven both, if you aren't carrying more than 4 people, I actually prefer the new Jetta to the old Passat, styling notwithstanding [I won't go to that topic].
For the uninformed, is DSG the standard gearbox with the manual transmission?
Seems it would be alot more fun than the automatic. Checkedout the Beetle and Jetta at the dealer yesterday and even the sales manager was trying to tell me I meant the Tiptronic transmission as the only transmission that gave you the option of not requiring shifting.
The manual transmission is still a manual transmission. The DSG, when offered, is the automatic option. When you buy, for example, a new A5 Jetta with the "automatic", you are getting the DSG.
And a fine piece of work it is. I've driven the Audi A3 with it, and it is fabulous - completely seamless and unobtrusive as an automatic, and if you want to shift for yourself, faster than you could ever change gears with a clutch and gear lever.
I have had my TDI and it has been great, it didn't come with a manual so I went by the dealer to see if there was anything I needed to know about the anti-freeze that I needed to put in my car. THey claimed that I needed the special VW anti-freeze....is this true or is there a more sensible alternative?
They are correct, you must use a special antifreeze that is safe for the engine. Unfortunately, it's rather spendy.... around $20 for a gallon if I recall correctly.
DO NOT put in the normal stuff you find at Autozone or Pep Boys, i.e., Prestone or the like.
BEST fuel efficiency? About as high as you can go without popping the tire off the rim. Some folks run 40psi or higher, whatever the maximum listed on their tire.
BEST compromise? I find about 32-35psi is comfortable enough, and gives a good compromise between ride, handling, efficiency. I do like a rather stiff ride though, so it may not feel comfortable to you.
I've never had tires wear funny running 32-25psi either.
I think VW recommends 26psi which is bogus IMHO. Car handles horrible with that setting and the stock suspension.
I too think we are on the same page - we both love the car and would buy another (although bigger) one! The new version (2006) of the Jetta is definitely bigger but I personally don't prefer the styling to 2001 version - so I would still go for the Passat.
When I posted to this site a couple of years ago, my discussion was virtually the same as yours. Essentially, I said that the savings in fuel go right back into vehicle maintenance - so like your comment, I was implying that the savings are somewhat misguided from a financial perspective.
However, after another 2 years of driving, I am convinced that the longevity of the car is significantly superior t o anything else in its class. So, should one be ok with driving an older car with many km on it, as opposed to having something new every 5 or six years, I believe there is an overall savings (incuding the significant cost of maintenance) when you factor in the cost of buying a new car to replace your current one.
Take a Japanese model (or a North American car) for instance. Yes, the maintenance might be cheaper than compared to the TDI - but on average, will it go over 500,000 km as conistently as a TDI? You would probably be replacing it sooner than the TDI, and when you factor that cost in, I believe you are saving in the long run. I have actually heard that the TDI engine, properly maintained ofcourse, can do alot more than 500,000 km.
My Jetta cost me $29,000 when I bought it in October, 2001 (CDN, all options + all taxes). I put about 40,000 km per year. If I drive it 12 years, I will get very close to that 500,000 km figure, as an example. During the first 150,000 km, my maintenance costs (excluding oil changes, tires + fuel) are probably in the range of about $2,400 CDN (timing belt, mass air flow sensor, ignition switch, glow plug harness, sway bar bushings, rear brake pads, fuel filters). If I keep spending for maintenance at that rate (and I am sure I will!), I still will not need to replace the car until it is at least 12 years old (probably even longer). Pretty much any conventional gas engine car will need to be replaced sooner than the TDI (and how how will it perform after it has 300,000 + km on it?). Plus, we must not forget that the body will take you to 12 years with any rust problems based on VW's warranty.
So, my thoughts are like yours in that anyone purchasing a TDI should consider all maintenance costs with the TDI (and they are significant) as opposed to only thinking about the fuel savings. However, I think they should also factor in replacement cost based on the service life of the car - I think that would overall make it a cheaper car to own. If, however, someone only plans to own the car for 5 or 6 years and replace it soon before its service life expires (because many people simply want to get something "new" after this period of time), then the savings on fuel will all be lost into the higher maintenance costs and it won't be a cheaper car to own in my opinion. In any event - it is still a great car to drive!!
I am going to be going off to school and making only long trips on a tight budget, what are some ideas that would increase my gas milege and make every drop count a bit more?
Comments
As far as the information panel, this displays both fuel and temp. Make sure it is not off. There is a setting to disable the info display.
As for the timing belt, you really need to look at your owners manuals. In the past, the automatics required a timing belt more frequently than the manual. I'm thinking they're rated for 90k miles on your model, but you need to check the manual. The dealer will probably tell you evey 60k miles and charge you $600, but that's not likely what the book says. If you don't have a manual, get one. Everything is detailed in there, and that's pretty much all that's necessary. You also need a fuel filter about every 20k miles.
As for the tranny issues, I dunno. I've not had much personal experience with them, but from what I've gathered they are a bit quirky and generally either crash during the warranty period, or last forever. A neighbor has one with about 150k miles on it. He also averages around 40mpg, which is normal from what I've seen. The manuals get about 5mpg more.
The AUTOMATIC xmaission has one less electric heater because the tranny adds heat to the engine coolant via a heat-exchanger.
Hoping its not the turbo! Any suggestions? Planning to take it in to Guildford Volkswagen in Surrey BC--had heard they were pretty good, but getting tired of what seems to be the "replace this, try that-maybe this will work" expensive trial and error stuff. Anyone had this problem before?
Thanks, Jklott
Or the guage really could be messed up.
Often a spray-on degreser and a scrub brush (old toothbrush) will do the trick. Then hose everything off.
I have used MANY degreaseers over the years and I find I prefer the biodegradable ones that are "activated" with cold water.... beleive-it-or-not, they work just as well as most of the other degreasers without desolving the plastic/rubber parts in the process.
If it is leaking as much as you suggest, then the leak will make itself apparent very quickly. It is possible that your problem is simply that the oil-filter was not installed properly. It is very common to forget to REMOVE one of the old O-rings before installing the new ones..... doubled-up O-rings have been known to cause oil leakage.
Perhaps you should try just replacing the oil-filter. They are available from Wallmart (Says FRAM on the box.... but is a REAL german MANN filter) It comes with 2 O-rings that must be replaced.
Di
thanks for your time in reading and possibly responding to this. All is appreciated.
What is a water separator, and how do I drain the water out of it?
Like I said before, there are very specific, step-by-step instructions available that can tell you how to isolate the problem.
Great MPG... 48 to 49
You should find it in Wallmart and it iis available in a 5-quart containers which is good for one change in the TDI. Wallmart also carries your oil-filter. Although it says "Fram" on the box, if you look inside and read the end of the filter element, it will say "Mann" which is the very same German-made filter you can get from any VW dealership. (Fram just re-packages the German filters instead of trying to make them to the exacting German standards )
The good news is that you only have to change the oil/filter in your TDI every 10,000 miles. ("Mobil 1 Truck&SUV 5W40" oil is actually good for a LOT longer than that)
I would rule-out the glow-plugs in this case becaue they do not even come into play after the engine is warmed above 40C. This leaves several other possible things.
I would 1st suggest that you verify that you are using the proper amount of Diesel additive each time you fill up.
Also, consider that VW has changed the design of the engine-temperture sensor due to issues. If the onboard computer does not know what the correct engine temperture is, then it cannot precisely meter the proper amount of fuel. The" new style" engine-temperture sensor is colored GREEN so it is easy to see if you have the updated one installed.
Brake booster failed around 23K miles. Pedal sunk on highway. Very scary. Repaired under warranty.
Original brake pads needed replacement (all four) at approximately 25K. Bought OE pads and replaced myself. Around $120 in parts as I recall. Funny, the pads I installed still have plenty of life almost 50K miles later.
Glovebox handle fell off around 30K miles. Original cupholder broke around same time. I griped to dealer (at length) and they replaced both even though warranty had expired.
Coolant temp sensor failed at approx. 45K (out of the 24K warranty). Bought sensor online and replaced myself. Cost around $30 if I recall correctly.
Found a large spring rolling on floor under driver's seat. Had no idea where it came from. Turns out it's to assist height adjustment on the seat. It mounts to plastic eyes that get brittle and break. Seat still functions fine so I haven't even bothered. Still ticks me off, though.
Front cupholder broke around 50K miles. Bought replacement online for $80 and replaced myself.
Car lost a lot of power around 50K. Turned out to be failed mass airflow sensor (MAF). Bought a new one for $90 and installed myself.
Air conditioner compressor clutch failed at approx 60K miles, in 100 deg. heat of course. Clutch was shredded. Priced replacement clutch @ over $350. Bought entire compressor assembly (including clutch) instead, at VW dealer, for around $250. Doesn't make sense, I know. Did the work myself, including evac and recharge of system. Replaced accessory belt at same time.
Driver's power window failed 2 weeks ago. Window fell into door. Dealer repaired under VW's extended 7 year warranty for windows. Dealer went ahead and pre-emptively modified front passenger side window mechanism at same time, under warranty.
Some interior trim such as the power window switch bezel and the like has worn pretty severely. It seems to be coated in something that's not very durable. Anyway, it is sluffing off. Not a functional problem but annoying nonetheless.
Things that were not the car's fault entirely:
Hit a speed bump a bit too fast and took out the oil pan. The pan is very low in this car. Oil everywhere. Engine was unharmed, thank goodness. Of course, the plastic shield under the engine was toast. Luckily, I didn't take out the front valence that a lot of owners find dragging the ground. Cost me about $500 all told.
General maintenance, excluding fuel, oil, and filters, and tires:
Timing belt, rollers, tensioner replaced just before 60K miles @ approx $800. Paid a pro to do this, I know my limits.
So, my out of pocket expense for wear and tear and things NOT covered by warranty has been around $2370 (excluding oil and filters) in 5 years of ownership. Let me say that the number would be at least $1000 more if I hadn't done a lot of the labor myself. I can do some things, though, so I do. I expect, but do not hope, that maint. costs will accelerate as the car ages.
While I can't fault the car for things I contributed to, I do think a more substantial skid plate should be used from the factory. Many owners have experienced the oil pan destruction. It's such an issue, in fact, that one can buy an aftermarket skid plate that's made of aluminum instead of plastic. I WILL vehemently complain about the marginal quality of some of the interior items as stated above, and the premature failure of some major components such as the brake booster, A/C compressor, various sensors, etc.
All this being said, I like the car. It still drives like new. The paint finish is still glossy and the car looks like new (when clean). The power is excellent for a car that routinely turns in 42 mpg in the city. That means nothing, however, if you're spending the dollars somewhere else in other maint. Friends who have Honda Accords are chugging along w/very little out of pocket and do not take nearly as good care of their cars as I do mine. $2370 buys one helluva lot of gasoline!
If you like the car, buy it. The car has more character, IMO, than Accords or Camrys. The powerplant is an engineering marvel in my opinion. If you don't care about such things, don't buy the car just because of the mileage and today's high fuel prices. Those reasons may trick you into some false economies. This is not a trouble-free car !
PS: I have always serviced my car per schedule or better. I use Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 every 7-10K miles, Mann oil filters, OE air and fuel filters. All parts replaced have been OE. I expect the engine to be capable of lasting 300K+ miles with routine maint. Not as confident about the rest of the car...
My 2002 TDI... TDI must stand for "trouble driving it." In the less than 3 years I have had it the following things have gone wrong:
1) Fuel line has cracked twice & been replaced twice (under warranty)
2) Radio died 2 months after purchase - replaced (under warranty)
3) Engine cover fell off the undercarriage on road trip - dragging on ground. Not under warranty - they said I must have hit something... $250+ repair
4) Seat warmer burned through seat & singed husband's pants. Really. Replaced under warranty
5) Turn signal went haywire shortly after getting car - would blink double time. Wiring problem, under warranty.
6) Speaker in door went out - wiring problem. Fixed under warranty
7) Several Glow Plug & Glow Plug Harness issues - all under warranty
8) Engine light came on RED twice in dead cold of winter - had car TOWED to dealer the first time only to find it was an electrical error. No problem with car. I drove it there myself the second time. (Not sure, but I think I paid for the towing.)
9) One of my keys only works when within 2 inches of the driver door - got a new battery ($4.95) but it made no difference
10) the other key's metal loop to attach to a key ring broke off after only a few months. Keys not under warranty, so have not been replaced (cost is ridiculous)
11) Front passenger seat repeatedly becomes jammed - can't move it. Dealership can't seem to fix it.
12) Seems that my electrical outlet (for phone charger) went dead last week
13) Accessory: bought the bra for the car & the thing is nearly in shreds underneath. Hasn't held up at all! Elastic hook strap broke within a month or two of putting on the car. It's gone down hill from there.
14) Accessory: Tray for the back of the wagon has warped & become mishapen due to heat/sun. Occurred within first few months of having it.
15) Oil pan had a crack & was leaking oil - I believe the damage occurred during oil change at dealer as I noticed it soon after. They would not pay for it & suggested I damaged it by hitting something while driving. Out of pocket expense here too.
16) Beware - I spilled a little BUG SPRAY on the plastic interior underneath the driver's arm rest & it sort of melted it. While it makes me wonder what the heck it does to my skin, I also think that seems an odd outcome for a car interior.
17) Oh yeah, a knob also fell off one of the audio controls. Reattached under warranty.
Really, I am not a crazy driver at all, despite the dealership's frequent accusations. I think the track record on this vehicle says enough!
So, despite how much I love how it handles & rides, how much I love the awesome mileage, how much I even love the look of the compact wagon... I am selling it before the warranty is up!!
I wish VW would give me my money back. What a hassle! :sick: :lemon:
I had posted about 2 years ago on this forum about my rear brake pads needed to be replaced only after about 65,000 km. I thought that was quite strange as I had never owned a car with 4 wheel disc brakes where the backs wore earlier than the front.
Anyhow, I had them replaced for less than $200 CDN (only replaced pads - did nothing to the rear rotors).
As of today, I have 150,000 km on my TDI. I am still on the original front pads! I would estimate that they have at least 20% life left. I am still on the replacement back pads which now have over 80,000 km on them, however, they have caught up to the fronts meaning all four will have to be done likely at the same time when the fronts finally wear.
I recall someone on this site advising me that the back pads were made from a softer compound and I certainly believe that.
I can understand your frustration with your brakes - the only reason I replied is that if I had to pick one single thing (beyond the incredible mileage I get from my TDI), it would be that I have never owner a car where the front pads when beyond 115,000 km, ever. The fact that I have 150,000 on my front pads simply amazes me - and I probably might get another 30 - 40,000 km out of them yet.
Apart from brakes, I have had some minor things go wrong with the car (ie glow plug harness, mass air flow sensor) plus I had to do that famous timing belt job. These concerned me at first but overall my car seems to be very reliable and the few bucks I have spent repairing it I will earn back many times over in mileage + longevity. My car runs as good today with 150,000 km on it and I fully expect to get it up to 500,000 km. The most I have ever put on a car previously was a Mazda B2200 which had 220,000 km before I let it go.
I guess some of us have better luck than others - but I would buy another TDI in a hearbeat - but would probably upsize to the Passat for more room.
We don't disagree. I too would buy another TDI - and like you, I'd move up to the Passat. I'm fond of the car and appreciate things about it that are not important to a lot of people. I also don't mind doing my own work. However, my post was intended to inform folks that there are many potential costs associated with the car - many of which are not insignificant - and that a decision based solely on its fuel economy is misguided from a financial perspective.
Keep it between the lines,
Enchilada
AND....at the moment, VW seems to have no plans to put the diesel in the New Passat when it finally starts to arrive in the fall. I think that will eventually happen, but not before model year 2007, when low-sulfur diesel will be available nationwide. They apparently do not want to certify the current TDI in the Passat, and then turn around and do it again for a new engine that they have planned that relies on the low-sulfur fuel to meet emissions standards.
For the time being, the few current-gen Passats that are left at dealerships with TDI engines are all there will be for about two years. Having driven both, if you aren't carrying more than 4 people, I actually prefer the new Jetta to the old Passat, styling notwithstanding [I won't go to that topic].
Seems it would be alot more fun than the automatic. Checkedout the Beetle and Jetta at the dealer yesterday and even the sales manager was trying to tell me I meant the Tiptronic transmission as the only transmission that gave you the option of not requiring shifting.
Thanks, Rob.
The manual transmission is still a manual transmission. The DSG, when offered, is the automatic option. When you buy, for example, a new A5 Jetta with the "automatic", you are getting the DSG.
And a fine piece of work it is. I've driven the Audi A3 with it, and it is fabulous - completely seamless and unobtrusive as an automatic, and if you want to shift for yourself, faster than you could ever change gears with a clutch and gear lever.
DO NOT put in the normal stuff you find at Autozone or Pep Boys, i.e., Prestone or the like.
BEST compromise? I find about 32-35psi is comfortable enough, and gives a good compromise between ride, handling, efficiency. I do like a rather stiff ride though, so it may not feel comfortable to you.
I've never had tires wear funny running 32-25psi either.
I think VW recommends 26psi which is bogus IMHO. Car handles horrible with that setting and the stock suspension.
I too think we are on the same page - we both love the car and would buy another (although bigger) one! The new version (2006) of the Jetta is definitely bigger but I personally don't prefer the styling to 2001 version - so I would still go for the Passat.
When I posted to this site a couple of years ago, my discussion was virtually the same as yours. Essentially, I said that the savings in fuel go right back into vehicle maintenance - so like your comment, I was implying that the savings are somewhat misguided from a financial perspective.
However, after another 2 years of driving, I am convinced that the longevity of the car is significantly superior t o anything else in its class. So, should one be ok with driving an older car with many km on it, as opposed to having something new every 5 or six years, I believe there is an overall savings (incuding the significant cost of maintenance) when you factor in the cost of buying a new car to replace your current one.
Take a Japanese model (or a North American car) for instance. Yes, the maintenance might be cheaper than compared to the TDI - but on average, will it go over 500,000 km as conistently as a TDI? You would probably be replacing it sooner than the TDI, and when you factor that cost in, I believe you are saving in the long run. I have actually heard that the TDI engine, properly maintained ofcourse, can do alot more than 500,000 km.
My Jetta cost me $29,000 when I bought it in October, 2001 (CDN, all options + all taxes). I put about 40,000 km per year. If I drive it 12 years, I will get very close to that 500,000 km figure, as an example. During the first 150,000 km, my maintenance costs (excluding oil changes, tires + fuel) are probably in the range of about $2,400 CDN (timing belt, mass air flow sensor, ignition switch, glow plug harness, sway bar bushings, rear brake pads, fuel filters). If I keep spending for maintenance at that rate (and I am sure I will!), I still will not need to replace the car until it is at least 12 years old (probably even longer). Pretty much any conventional gas engine car will need to be replaced sooner than the TDI (and how how will it perform after it has 300,000 + km on it?). Plus, we must not forget that the body will take you to 12 years with any rust problems based on VW's warranty.
So, my thoughts are like yours in that anyone purchasing a TDI should consider all maintenance costs with the TDI (and they are significant) as opposed to only thinking about the fuel savings. However, I think they should also factor in replacement cost based on the service life of the car - I think that would overall make it a cheaper car to own. If, however, someone only plans to own the car for 5 or 6 years and replace it soon before its service life expires (because many people simply want to get something "new" after this period of time), then the savings on fuel will all be lost into the higher maintenance costs and it won't be a cheaper car to own in my opinion. In any event - it is still a great car to drive!!