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Comments
#2 is what your TDI is designed to run on.
BD is derived from PLANTS instead of dead dinosaurs.
BD is most often a mixture of #2 and BD..... (ie B100, B90....etc)
#1 is basically Kerosene and does not have enough lubrication to satisfy the fuel pump (read very expensive damage)
To make things more confusing... in the northorn part of the country during the winter months the #2 diesel that we buy is actually a MIXTURE of #2 and #1 to help make the fuel flow in cold wether. That is why it is IMPERETIVE that all TDI engines have fuel-additive in the tank during the winter. It replaces the lost lubrication and eliminates fuel-gelling.
I am curious.... where in the world did you find #1 fuel oil? I would be very surprised if anyone is actually offering the stuff at a gas station.
Have a friend go along and find a smooth non busy stretch of road where you can do this safely. You only need to drive around 25 miles per hour while your friend sticks his or her head out of the window far enough to see the front and rear wheel/tires while they are rotating. The wobble of a crooked wheel or distorted tire will be quite visible. Your friend can then take the wheel and watch the road while you do the same. You should see absolutely no wobble on alloy wheels and very very little on good tires.
You cannot detect out-of-balance by this method. However, if the tires and wheels run true and are in balance then the problem is in the drive train and that is a manufacturing defect that should be corrected under warrantee.
Crooked axle, loose bearing, defective cv joint are some examples. There is an old diagnostic that says that if the vibration is felt in the steering wheel it is generally the front wheels. If the vibration is felt in the seat or floor the vibration is in the rear wheels.
Good luck
Thanks for the help..........Nullifier
Remotely, the disk-brake assemblies may be the cause of the problem. Do any of the brake rotors get hot to the touch after high-speed driving? (should be just warm)
It should not be a big effort for your dealership to bolt on 4 totally different wheels and go for a drive with you. This test would tell you FOR CERTAIN if the problem is in the wheel/tire assemblies.
The "new" automatic xmission is unlike any other you have ever driven. It is actually a DUAL CLUTCH xmission just like F1 cars. The next gear is ALREADY enguaged and the clutches instantly swap the torque to the the next gear. The difference is that F1 cars use "paddles" by the steering wheel to initiate gear changes while you dont get that feature in the VW ;-)
I am not sure that I buy the story that this technology can get better MPG than a properly-driven manual xmission.... but it sure is better than the old-style automatic.
The easiest thing you could check is the snowscreen. You also need to be adding a cetane-improver at every fillup. (North American diesel fuel is crap) You may want to check the MAF sensor too. (easy to check by disconecting the plug and driving) Beyond that, you need access to VAGCOM to ascertain the IQ (Injection Quality) and fuelpump timing.
Also, make sure you are measuring properly. Diesel fuel foams like a bubblebath. You MUST wait for the froth to subside then fill it again. I always fill until I see the liquid fuel in coming up the filler-neck. (about 2 gallons AFTER the automatic shutoff kicks in due to the froth) I assume you are already burping the fueltank by pushing the button.
As I have said many times before.... my TDI with manual xmission can get 56MPG on the highway and has NEVER been below 40MPG (At least 650 miles per tank).
1. Are there any additives that should be added to a diesel engine in the winter? I know from experience that Diesel is very tempermental at cold temperatures. Also, does this apply to BioDiesel?
2. Any experience with the use of a cetane improver in the TDIs? Can they be used with any BioDiesel blend or #2 Diesel? Which brand would you recommend?
3. Any general quality issues with the current 2004-2006 TDI models?
Thanks in advance for your help.
1) Yes, especially for BD which is far more susceptable to cold temps.
2) Yes, not sure, I use PowerService from Wallmart
3) I do not know about the new design, it has not been around long enough for "problem areas" to make themselves apparent.
I have recently read that newer "Pump Deus" engine in my TDI requires a better oil than Mobile One.
I'm approaching 10K, and will have to change my oil next week.
If Mobile One isn't good enough, what brand of oil can I buy to do it myself?
There are not many sources for VW 505.01 spec oil in North America. Obviously, any VW dealership carries it because VW is one of the sole importers of the stuff to North America.
One of the other sources for the oil you require is MOTUL.
http://www.motul.com/home.html.
If you want MOBIL to bring VW505.01 to North America, see this webpage
http://www.petitiononline.com/mod_perl/signed.cgi?vw50501
I have had nothing but bad experiences in the past.
I called the dealer that I bought my car from, to ask what they charge for scheduled maintenance.
They told me that they charge $65 for the 5,000 mile service, and $171 for the 10,000 miles service.
This isn't what bothers me the most...I have already violated my warranty by changing my own oil with an oil that doesn't meet VW spec 505.01.
I know from past experience that dealers with try to avoid warranty repairs if you do not meet their maintenance requirements.
Do I have any other options, besides taking my car to the dealer for service?
You can purchase VW 505.01 oil and do the changes yourself.
Whomever warned you of this had no clue what they were talking about. That can happen on a gasoline vehicle because of the vapor recovery system requiring pressurization of the entire fuel system. The TDI is not pressurized in the tank. In fact, it's purposefully vented. There is a button in the fuel filler neck that you can see and the cap depresses that button to vent the tank. You can drive with the cap off all day long.
Regarding the cetane-improver...the VW manual instructs the driver not to add anything to the fuel...do you think they are being too cautious?
My gas mileage seems too low even for mostly in city driving...
Eric
I own an 04 Jetta and am very happy with the quality. There is one issue that you should be aware of however (and a fairly easy solution but with caveots). TDI engines are subject to pluggage in the intake manifold. It is mostly attributed to 3 factors: 1) EGR (recirculation exhaust gas with some soot back into the intake) 2) CCV (crankcase ventilation gas also get recirced back and they contain an oily mist that serves as glue for the soot from the EGR) 3) Sulfur in the fuel (in a year or so, the limit for sulfur in on-road diesel will drop from the current 500 ppm limit to 15 ppm. People in CA where the ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) is available aren't having this intake manifold pluggage problem. (Another benefit of running bio). In any case, I installed a Provent Coalescing filter in my CCV line to remove the oil mist (it does a very effective job); unfortunately, there has been a case at tdiclub.com where a member was denied warranty coverage of a leaking camshaft oil seal because he had this same mod (just VW weaseling out of paying for a non-related repair), so if you put one on, you might want to consider taking it off (mine is quite simple to take off) if you have any engine warranty problems.
WIth fuel gelling, starting is NOT the problem. Instead, Gelled fuel (paraffan wax particals) can plug up the fuel filter and kill the engine AFTER you have driven for awhile.
USE FUEL ADDITIVE!
Very recently I met a guy at the VW dealership quite by accident when I went over to aggravate my saleman and discovered he is the Oracle of TDI'S at this dealership. His title is Product Manager and if your dealership has one HE IS the person to talk to for technical detail. I was absolutely dazzled by his knowledge.
I was shopping for a vehicle in 2003 at the end of the year and found a new Jetta here for $15,999. I eventally bought a truck but I still think about that end of the year Jetta price.........Good Hunting................................Null
One question: is the DSG essentially a manual or automatic?
SInce TDI gets about 30% better MPG, that means the price of diesel woukd have to be 30% HIGHER than gasoline JUST TO BREAK EVEN So, fear not, a TDI will still be a benifet as the price of fuels rises. I can GUARANTEE you that diesel fuel will NEVER EVER be 30% higher than gasoline.
Keep in mind that diesel fuel powers TRUCKING, RAIL and SHIPS all over the earth. As diesel fuel goes up in price.... so does EVERY THING WE BUY in every store across the country. Because the cost of all the products reflects the cost of
the shipping.
That fact alone GUARANTEES that diesel fuel will always be available across the country. The entire econemy would cease to function if truckers could not find fuel when they need it.
Also, virtually every building in the nortern parts of NorthAmerica is heated with fuel-oil. (diesel fuel or kerosene) If what you suggest happens, then many humans would not be able to live in Canada. ;-)
Your entire Volkswagen would fit into JUST ONE CYLINDER of this engine.
I hope you sold it on eBay or the Auto Trader. They are bringing over MSRP used. If you traded at a Toyota dealer I can guarantee you lost several thousand dollars. Hope you enjoy the Camry. Nice cars just kind of boring to drive.
Did you get your Jetta with the bigger wheels and performance tires? If so that is the harsh ride you were experiencing.
There is a huge variation in diesel fuel. If it sits in the storage tank for a long time it goes bad. It is best to buy from stations that have a quick turn over in diesel. I am spoiled here in CA as I only use the ultra low sulfur diesel that BP is refining for our state. Others may know of an additive that would clean your system and keep it running smoothly.
Does this vibration occur on all road surfaces? My Passat TDI with 17" wheels and Michelins will vibrate on concrete roads quite noticeably. On black top they are as smooth as silk. I would not buy another car with the low profile wheels and tires as the ride is not to my liking. They handle Great. Life is full of compromises.
I don't know what kind of deal you have made for the Camry. I cannot imagine the top of the line Camry selling for as much as your VW is worth with only 4000 miles. With all the rebates Toyota is offering a top of the line V6 XLE for $22k. A stripped VW Jetta TDI will bring that much. If you just bought the VW you probably paid MSRP for it. They are a premium car right today, just like the Prius. Everyone wants that 50 MPG car. Good luck
I had a viabration/noise in an early Civic years ago and a friend that owned a tire company told me to bring the car in. He looked at and felt the tires, took two off and put the tires on a truing machine. It's a machine that slowly turns the tire (like a balance machine only much slower) and slowly moved a large cutter into the tire. Tires don't always come from the factory exactly round and this machine would make the tire completely round. When the cutter is done, voila, an exactly round tire. In my case, the tire was so warped that I had to replace it. Truing machines fell out of favor sometime in the 80's and now a lot of shops don't use them.
THe reason I tell you this is that if the noise/vibration changes as you ride over different road surfaces, to me, the most logic place to start would be the tires.
If you keep the VW or go for the Camry, you'll be getting a fine car............Null
http://www.pelaproducts.com/
http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10051&catalo- gId=10051&langId=-1&categoryId=343395&bct=t249085%3Bc300838
This is the one I have:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?resultCt=1&jspStoreDir=- wm51&catalogId=10001&productId=81053&keyword=3704574&y=18&x=13&storeId=10001&ddkey=SiteSea- rch
That being said....I can't say that my Jetta is worlds different out on the open road. I have the 15" wheels/tires and overall it drives very smooth. The bumps are more harsh and it's a tad noisey, but I never once wished I had the Camry back in that department. If anything, the Camrys were always too soft for my liking, but the rest of tha package sold me. My '94 Camry was an SE and it was a bit better. I think you've got a problem as these cars do not generally vibrate like that.
How about this....take the time you were going to spend buying a new car and try to figure out what's wrong with the Jetta. Go drive another one, swap some tires around, have them inspected. You say you've ruled out a tire problem....could you explain what's been done to form that conclusion?
Finally, you need to find a new dealer. VW dealers in general are horrible. Up there with Toyota IMHO, but we have some real rotten Toyota dealers around here as well. If you can't get to another dealer, it might be best to toss the car. You might try a Honda instead. We've had good luck with them recently, and I drove a V6 Accord recently that was very impressive. Wasn't near as soft as a Camry, and overall was a better car IMHO. I'm thinking about replacing my TDI with an Acura TL soon. Was going to go to a Passat TDI, but I'm not traveling as much anymore and looking for something with a little more zing.
I had a vibration problem similar to what you describe many years ago. It turned out to be a flat-spotted tire caused by a lock-up. It wasn’t easy to find since the wheels run true and the tire didn’t wobble. And, it got worse with speed – a lot worse. I didn’t mention it because you have 4-wheel antilock brakes.
The tires were spin-balanced without success. I eventually lifted the car to spin the tires with the vehicle off the ground. I swapped in the non drive wheels and repeated the experiment. A flat spot on a spin-balanced tire will not shake a car that is off the ground with the wheels spinning and is not easy to detect visibly. I used something as a pointer (don’t remember what) to find the flat spot on the surface of the tire. The flat spot was about 1/8 inch over a few inches.
It’s not clear how you could have gotten a flat spot on a tire. Maybe the tire manufacturer has somehow unintentionally come up with the technical equivalent of a flat spot during manufacture.
I'm a happy 05and half owner with 10K miles on it. The vibration I had and rough ride was from. The tire pressure was at 45psi instead of 32psi. 32psi and it rides alot smoother. Vibration was from my auto student tightening the lugs with the impact instead of the torque wrench. I get 42mpg on the road at 80mph. 30 in town with DSG trannie. I Love it. No real problems yet. I drove it like stole it.
Don
However, it’s a rare street tire that is not 1/64 to 1/32 inch out of round and that is not usually enough to cause a problem. I’m not suggesting that you have an actual flat spot or serious out-of-round condition or lack the skill to find it. I am suggesting that you MAY have a tire with an internal construction problem that is round, in balance, but imparting impulses to the suspension as it rotates at speed due to something like a defective belt. If it is a tire uneven wear should be visible eventually.