How many miles can I reasonable expect to get from my Jetta TDI engine by religiously following the maintenance requirements. I've heard 300-400k out of some engines. I just ran into someone recently who has 800k on an original late 70's Rabbit diesel engine. Anyone have any insight?
I have 261K on my 82 Jetta Diesel. No work done on engine or trans. Myriad electric problems with many false alarms (engine oil, temp) that go off at random. A/C died at around 180. Not much of a car as far as creature comforts or looks and it is very noisy now (they can hear me coming and get out of my way!). However very reliable and 52 mpg! I wish VW could have continued to make a simple diesel like this one, as far as tighter emissions requirements would have allowed. I would not buy a new TDI with the problems described here and the costly maintenance required and the lower mileage. I may not have too,I might be buried in this one!!
Does it matter which way the filter element is oriented (ie rightside up, or upside down)?
ABSOLUTELY!! One end of the oilfilter is labelled "TOP/OBEN". That end should be UP twards you when installed. This is because the oilfilter contains a "baffle" that holds oil when the engine is shut down. This keeps the oil from draining back into the crankcase so the next startup has some oil "in the system" ready to go.
So far, two days and about 60 miles later, it runs fine...no problem starting or with the indicators (i.e. oil pressure light, temperature gauge) etc.
I change my oil at a hobby shop at work. The shop attendant said that he didn't think that it would hurt if I was only a pint over, and that I would probably burn it off, as this is normal with diesels.
The oil is already black (immeadiately after changing it).
I understand that this is also normal.
I guess for 10 bucks, it wouldn't hurt to change the oil filter again, and its easy enough to do.
I understand that the NAPA filters (mad by WIX) have the baffle, but are not marked which is the TOP.
You can pick up a TDI oil-filter at wallymart for about 12 bucks. Although is says Fram CH8530 on the box, the contents is a REAL GERMAN-MADE FILTER just like the one you can get at the dealer. (Factory filters are made by "Mann")
Be careful with the liter bottles. Its easy to overfill. When changing the oil, stop filling after 4 liters, and check the oil level before topping off.
On the subject of oil filters, i'm confused about which end is the top. I understand that the top is labelled on some filters, but is this the end that you insert into the filter housing? Is this the end that is pointing up when the filter and housing are installed on the engine?
OR, is the top of the filter facing downward when installed (since this appears to be where the oil enters the filter)?
What would happen if a filter were installed upside down? I have read that there is a bypass valve on the filter. Would this mean that the oil recirculating through the engine would be essentially unfiltered, if the filter were installed upside down?
I want to replace my filter again, but I want to make sure i'm doing it right this time!
For gods sake don't buy or have any of your TDI's serviced at Cherry Hill Imports!
I bougt a 2000 TDI there and durung a factory service they screwed up the fuel filter assy and had the car in the shop for 22 days only to return it with another leak and screwed up battery assy. THEY ARE IDIOTS!!!!
I have a new Passat TDI and have the same shudder issue, had it back to the dealer thinking it was a re-program of the valve body pressure shift points but they are clueless. It seems to be most noticeable in 3rd gear and I have not noticed it as much when using triptronic mode. Have you had and other responses with recommended fix's?
My goodness, the top is the top. It is the end facing UP.Twards the sky.
If the oilfilter is not labelled, look inside it. If there is no baffle, DO NOT BUY IT. If therre is a baffle, the perferated plastic should be UP twards the top.
There is NO BYPASS VALVE in the TDi oilfilter. (the bypass valve is perminantly built into the oil-plumbing.)
I had a recall on the dipstick on my 05.5 It was reading fuller than the it really should be. I also buy my filter and oil from the dealer for about 35 and I know it meets the warranty. Castrol 5W40 with the 505.1 rating. If that is what the manufacture designed to use. I have cut all brands of filters in half for my class and I wouldn't use anything orange or yellow. If you wonder, cut your own spin on apart.
I recently purchased a 2000 1.9 TDI (Beetle), 110,000 miles. The engines runs fine on regular streets. Good power. Get on the interstate going 70 to 80 mph, after 5 to 10 miles, the car starts slowing down, losing power, shutters, and eventually dies. Excessive diesel exhuast fumes are present in the cabin air of the car at the same time with the AC running. Feels as though the car has run out of fuel. After cranking the engine three or four times at 30 second intervals, it will restart. Any ideas on what is wrong?
Just ran across this board and it seems like a wealth of knowledge. My wife and I just bought an 06 Jetta TDI with 5 speed manual. It is our first diesel car. :shades: We live in South Florida. Questions:
1) Do we need to use fuel additives in this climate? If so which ones and why? 2) I've heard about switching out computer chips to increase mileage and/or HP. Any thoughts? 3) We do mostly city driving, but after the third tank, I calculate only 27 mpg? 4) Should I burp the tank when fueling or wait for foam to clear?
Any other thoughts or input that you think useful would be very appreciated.
1) It is a good idea. Any brand-name works well. the "why" is improved MPG, less smoke, quieter engine, lube for the injection-pumps 2)You could do this, but not required if your goal is improved MPG 3)It takes at least 15,000 miles for TDI engine to break in. (compression to approach maximum) Also, be sure to follow break-in suggesitons found on other websites 4)Since I get over 50MPG, I figure evey gallon I can get in is another 50 miles of driving. I can get about 2 more gallons in the tank by burping and waiting for foam to subside. (that is another 100 miles!!)
(curtc) Many folks (including myself) have proven that fuel-additive does all the things I mention above. Do not forget that the TDI engine is DESIGNED for fuel that is NOT AVAILABLE IN NORTH AMERICA. We need to use additive just to bring the fuel up to standards expected by the TDI engine. (Do you even know what Cetane is?)
Respectfully, you are just plain wrong about #3. Many folks that have measured the compression on TDIs have not only mapped out what the engine compression should be over time...they have also gatherd enough data to recommend some break-in habits to follow.
Generally, for break-in, one wants to use moderately-heavy accelleration (perhaps 10-20 seconds) followed by several minutes of easy driving.... do this over and over and over.
Technically, one needs to produce BOOST from the turbochager to force the rings against the cylinder-walls. (that is the accelleration part) This produces high loads and heat in a new engine which needs to be dissapated into the cooling system. (that is the easy driving part)
It has also been shown that TDI engines which ARE NOT properly broken in (babied during breakin) have "glazed" cylinder-walls. This glaze prevents the rings from sealing properly and such an engine may have poor MPG and consume oil for the rest of its life.
If you are asking your VW dealership about TDI engines, you may getting guesses for answers. Generally, most VW dealerships are not very TDI-savvy. Some even think that the TDI engine has a "wastegate" on the turbocharger or tell people that they do not need VW505.01 oil in their TDI engine. They just do not see enough TDIs to gain experinece with them.
bpeebles, I agreed with you. Obviously, you have been doing a lot of reading from other TDI website. Fuel-additive or bio-diesel is good for diesel engine because it clean the intake better and grease it. The diesel we have here is usually not that good. There's a lot of peoples have TDI for years and hundred thousand miles on their car that recommend to drive the car hard (not crazy) for a several thousand miles for the ring to seat properly.
A good rule of thumb is to use a burst of full-throttle-accelleration perhaps once per trip. This is AFTER the engine has fully warmed up.
After about 10K miles, you can cut back to once or twice a tankful of fuel FOR THE REST OF THE TIME YOU OWN THE VEHICLE. If "babied" too much, The following can happen; *)oil collects in the intercooler. *)The vanes on the VNT get coated with soot *)Piston rings are not forced against the cylinder-walls
Using a burst of full-throttle-accelleration will blow that oil out of the intercooler, burn the soot off the VNT vanes and help seal the rings. It also "exercizes" the turbocharger so the VBT vanes do not get stuck.
Although the TDI engine is very torquey and can pull loads at low RPMs, it likes to spend some time in the upper RPM range once in a while to keep things cleaned out.
Anyone with a TDI can tell you that after babing for awhile, a burst of full-throttle-accelleration can create a puff of smoke from the exhaust. That is all the junk being blown out of the system.
What bad things can happen if you NEVER use a burst of full-throttle-accelleration ?
*)VNT vanes can get so plugged with carbon that the turbocharger ceases to function. *)Cylinder walls glaze over resulting in poor compression and MPG *)Intake manifold (Cooled EGR) can plug up.
Put your foot into the TDI for a short burst as mentioned to break it in. Do not run wide open for a long distance
My first diesel VW Rabbit many people told me the fuel mileage would jump from the mid 30's to over 40mpg when I got 15 to 18k miles on the car. I figured they were full of 'stuff '
By 18k miles on the car it was getting 44 - 48 mpg in town.
After 2 tanks of fuel our 2006 Jetta TDI with auto trans is getting 37 mpg
While I agree a lot of the info here is from enthusiasts (i am one, although I don't get overly cozy with my vehicle, maintenance or otherwise), I would not believe everything a VW dealer would tell you. I have heard good things about the dealer in Pittsburgh you referred, and in general that region has a large TDI population and some of the dealers are knowlegeable. There's a pretty good TDI tech just over the river in Steubenville Ohio as well.
I have about 120k miles on the TDI clock and really have never religously used fuel additives. I do however try to run premium diesel and I can tell a difference with that fuel. Just adding Powerservice or other additive, I've never noticed any difference. I only use it when I'm not familiar with the fuel I'm buying, or the temps are very low (say below 20ºF). BP Diesel Supreme is an excellent fuel and you should be able to find it in your region. The motor quiets down, much smoother, and I can't make it smoke even with my performance mods and a cold start. Just have to make sure it's actually BP Diesel Supreme. Sometimes they say it is but it's not. BP Diesel Supreme is crystal clear (looks like sprite, very little foam) and has a very mild odor. I can look at the fuel while it's going into the car and tell. If it has a green or yellow tint, it's not diesel supreme. BP Supreme has a much higher cetane rating and sulphur is down around 15ppm, which explains why it runs better.
As for break-in, I don't know about compression ratios or any of that, as I have no reason to monkey with my car to that extent. However, my fuel mileage had a nice steady increase to about 20k miles and has remained above 45mpg for the most part ever since.
I can testify to BP ULSD. After the original tank of diesel, I have used only BP ULSD in my new Passat. I have never seen any exhaust. The smell is less obnoxious than unleaded gas. Generally it is less per gallon than other diesel in the San Diego area. ULSD mandated is a good thing for diesel. It should go a long way in enhancing the diesel position in the car market.
With regard to addititives it is notable that in the VW website owners section there is PDF file which recommends a particular addititve. Take it or leave it, but of course its on the US website which why I would tend to think its recommend because of the quality of diesel fuel in NA.
I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. And the winters can get down to -40F for a day or 2 per year. I have the block heater option installed on my new Jetta TDI 2006, so I can plug it in. However, should I be starting the car prior to driving and letting it idle for any length of time. Or on these ( MANY ) below zero days just start the car and drive after the oil has had a min to slosh around? :confuse: And Fuel additive sounds like a must on these freezing cold days.? I dont plan on using additive during the summer, but after reading everyones postings I would say Yes for the winter... If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. I was already told to steer clear of the car starter........The heated seats will be worth their weight in gold up here. :shades:
Clean the windshield, start the car, crank up the heated seats and start driving. TDI will not warm up well on idle, will warm up best by driving. Use of additive is recommended year round IMHO. Unit injectors on the newer TDI or injector pump on the older TDI use very high pressures and require lubricity. Additive will add lubricity and improve cetane of the fuel.
I concour with Mr. moparbad. Use of additive should not be considerd "optinoal" in North America. Even VW suggests using it. The fuel system components cost THOUSANDS of dollars and are well worth protecting.... besides, the added cetane will improve 3-5MPG.
I have measured 56MPG from my TDI using cetane-improver. When I do not put the additive in, my engine is NOISY and only gets about 50 MPG.
In severly cold temps , without antigell, the gelled fuel will plug up the fuel filter and you will not drive very far before it starves for fuel and stalls.
Mr curtc, Please take your comments elsewhere. We are trying to have an intelligent discussion. You sound a little like one of the political parties in the USA which always disagrees but never offers any alternative.
Most of us are stating FACTS while you simply are wasting our time having to read your baseless contradictions. Do you have any useful comments to help the folks that are asking for assistance?
I use about 6oz of PowerService brand. (Grey bottle in summer and white bottle in winter) I purchase it at wallymart in large container. Keep less than 1qt in trunk double-sealed (container within contaner)
I found a pack of 200 8oz paper cups and carry some in the trunk too. It is easy enough to form paper cup into "spout" and fill it to about 6oz level....then toss it out. (Diesel additive is VERY stinky and needs to be handled carefully.)
Anyone using words like"bozo" and "stupid" just do not help in any practical way on any subject at any time. Once ego and pride are out of the way, those type of words should rapidly follow. If they don't, the problem then is self evident and reflects poorly on the source's ability to communicate, reason, or control their emotions effectively in a public forum.
Let's get ego and pride out of this forum, stick to the car and related practices, and try to avoid that other form of interaction please.
Back to lurking now... waiting for demand to slacken and prices to drop... and glad I'm not a moderator since this post may not initially moderate anything...
We need to be talking about the cars and not each other. If you don't care for a post someone makes, just skip on past it. Please do not get into telling each other what to post, that's not where we want to be.
Here is official VW document about fuel-additives. If your dealership does not refer you to this information when asked about additives, perhaps they are not up to speed on other aspects of TDI engines as well 8-)
I never said that the act of disagreeing was an issue in any way. Nor, in fact, do I actually disagree with you. I think it makes sense to check with the dealer or manufacturer while trying to assimilate all this information - especially if you are not a Chem-E, Mech-E, or Mech-anic with related experience. And I am none of the above. I also think most fuel additives are snake oil. And l actually chuckled at your imagery about the engine fusing into a block of steel
But in this case, based on the data provided from VW via CPEEBLEs they do look justified at the edge of the application envelope for the car (i.e. really cold weather combined with marginal fuel). Thanks for the URL!
And it's good to see the forum back in it's groove. IMHO this is one of the best groups on the board.
Ok got a question for you guys, I'm purchasing a 06 Jetta TDI and want to know if anyone has ran Jet A in one. Years ago I a Rabbit Diesel and ran nothing but Jet A and never had a problem so I was wondering if anything has changed with the newer TDIs? Where I work we get alot of sumped jet fuel that is check daily for water and have to dispose of it so I may as well put it to good use. In the past I would use and additive for extra lubrication and would assume that would still work, any ideas on this.
One last question is there much gas mileage diff. between a manual or automatic?
I'll relate to ya'll my EXPERIENCE with a Rabbit diesel I owned for a few years. In the area of the state I live in there are lots of fairly steep hills. If I didn't put additive to the fuel, the car would still run and pull hills. It just didnt pull the hills as quickly and I might lose a gear going up the grade. It was a noticable decline in the power. For me, it was worth the price of a can of additive to get the most from the little diesel.
Your engine will break in better if you wait until at least 5000 miles on the odometer. VW recommends synthetic, but the factory fill in Mexico is 10W30 non synthetic. My cousin worked in the factory for 2 months setting up the manufacting areas. He spent a great deal of time investigating what type of oil the use in the TDI for the factory fill. It make sense that they use no systhetic for the factory fill. Ask any engine builder. They will tell you that the rings won't seat and your engine won't break in if the oil is syntetic. It's too slippery.
The "Jet A" fuel is closer to Kerosene than it is to Diesel fuel. The refining process to make "Jet A" also removes most of the "lubricity" from the fuel. This makes "Jet A" a poor choice for use in a modern diesel engine....especially your 2006 with the Pumpe Duse engine. Your engine has a seperate fuel pump for each cylinder which is driven off the camshaft. The PD engine increased injector psi from about 15,000 up to 30,000 psi over the last VW TDI engine design.
This goes right along with the discusison about using fuel additives. One of the reasons that educated folks use additives is to improve the "lubricity" of the fuel. The fuel pump(s), and injectors need to be lubricated...lest they will have a short lifespan.
As for your question about MPG difference between Manual and AUtomatic xmission.... the window sticker says it all. In real "on the road" usage, if one is buying a TDI for MPG, the manual xmission is the way to go. (up to 10MPG better than automatic)
This makes sens if one looks at the numbers.... If an automatic xmission loses 10% as compared to a manual xmission, then as the efficency of the engine goes up, so does the difference in MPG between the 2 types of xmissions.
One thing I should mention here, VW/Audi now offer a very special "automatic" xmission. The DSG xmission has been described as an "automatic manual xmission". It is based on the same technology as F1 racecars that have the paddle-shifters on the steering wheel. If you have one of these xmissions on your TDI, it is said that they get better MPG than a manual. (too bad VW/AUDI do not provide the paddle-wheels on the steering wheel ;-)
That is what I have trying to say all along...using diesel additive provides more power, more MPG, less smoke and quiter engine. This is not "snake oil" it is the nature of TDI engine when fed with crappy North American Diesel fuel.
Please, anyone that thinks this is not true, reseach "cetane" as it relates to what is available in North American Diesel fuel compared to what cetane level VW recommends for their TDI engine.
Sure, a TDI will *run* without cetane improver... but for my money I like to get an extra 40-60 miles out of each tank of fuel!! (that is not snake-oil my friends)
What years Jetta diesels did your friends own? 2004-current has different engine than 1999 1/2 - 2003, and the 1997-1999 engine is very similar to the 1999 1/2 to 2003 engine although the minor changes have some significant ramifications.
The current engine is the most intolerant to improper oil or low quality diesel. And it is important to note that the PD is desigined to run on higher cetane fuel of Europe that is typically not easily found in North America.
Does the owners manual explain intake clogging? Does the owners manual tell you that some of it's dealers do not use the correct engine oil? Did the owners manual provide info. on defective MAF sensors and the effect on drivability? Did the owners manual warn that the dealer was going to put the wrong timing belt on the TDI? Is "relay 109" problem for earlier TDI explained in the owners manual?
There are a great number "tricks" that can improve your ownership experience of a VW TDI.
People with an attitude like yours are typically the ones complaining at MyVWLemon. Careful review of anything posted and some degree of skepticism is a wise course, however, your earlier posts are inflammatory and disruptive and show a lack of knowledge or willingness to accept information.
If you only want your TDI to last until the warranty expires then use whatever oil is the cheapest, diesel fuel from stations that have a low diesel business, and drive your TDI like a gasser.
It was a Pkg 1 with DSG. The seats were great and it handled like it was on rails. I got to take it on the interstate and some pretty beat up and bumpy farm roads. Not to stiff, not too soft. Even better then my Passat. Best of all, my clubs fit nicely in the trunk with the Driver still in the bag. There would even be extra room for plenty of fuel additives I'm sold.
The stereo was excellent. Does anybody know if you get the same one in a Pkg Zero (dealer's words) car? The salesman I had wasn't sure.
My only quibble was that the DSG got thru 1st gear almost like it was a creeper gear. It had a little herky-jerkiness on take off as a result. Once rolling in 3rd it was excellent and I found myself quickly in the ticket zone.
I'll miss my 5 speed but my job causes me to need to be on the cell while driving so an automatic is a must have in my next car. Traffic in Austin stinks. I wish this thing had Blue Tooth. Anybody know how hard/expensive it would be to add it to the stereo? For that matter, is the stereo still a part of the car's diagnostic system like it was in my Passat? That's a real pain if you need service and have to get the factory head unit back in place...
Minutes later I drove a Ford Fusion 3.0L SEL with their auto. I must say that it drove and shifted smoother all around, but the handling was better on the VW as was the rest of the interior and general feel. That the VW will probably get 50% to 75% better fuel efficiency ices the cake. Assuming I keep the car as long as my last one I'd expect prices to average close to $4/gal during the total ownership time. So that's important.
I've been to the two local dealers near my home (north Austin, TX). On is selling for sticker, the other has some BS add on crap for a few hundred over. I told the more helpful/friendly of the two I was looking for $500 over invoice and he said to be prepared to wait about a year - but he took my name and number down. No hassle at all.
Time will tell if and when I buy one. My car is fine so I can be patient. If anybody out there has gotten a decent deal please share. I flew up to Tulsa to get my Odysee a few years ago - and save >$2000 in return for the long drive home even after factoring in air fare.
Comments
Don
I bought a case of XTC 5W40 Oil from Bardahls.
However, I forgot that these were liters, not quarts of oil, and think I may have overfilled.
I put in about 4 1/2-3/4 liters.
The dipstick is about an inch over the max. Probably about 1/2 quart over the max.
Should I drain some oil, or will I be OK?
I checked it when the engine was hot.
I am a rookie at car maintenance...I think I did alright with the oil filter and gaskets.
Does it matter which way the filter element is oriented (ie rightside up, or upside down)?
ABSOLUTELY!! One end of the oilfilter is labelled "TOP/OBEN". That end should be UP twards you when installed. This is because the oilfilter contains a "baffle" that holds oil when the engine is shut down. This keeps the oil from draining back into the crankcase so the next startup has some oil "in the system" ready to go.
The top had a part number.
The bottom had "made in Poland" labeled on it.
So far, two days and about 60 miles later, it runs fine...no problem starting or with the indicators (i.e. oil pressure light, temperature gauge) etc.
I change my oil at a hobby shop at work. The shop attendant said that he didn't think that it would hurt if I was only a pint over, and that I would probably burn it off, as this is normal with diesels.
The oil is already black (immeadiately after changing it).
I understand that this is also normal.
I guess for 10 bucks, it wouldn't hurt to change the oil filter again, and its easy enough to do.
You can pick up a TDI oil-filter at wallymart for about 12 bucks. Although is says Fram CH8530 on the box, the contents is a REAL GERMAN-MADE FILTER just like the one you can get at the dealer. (Factory filters are made by "Mann")
Now I need to see if PepBoys will sell me 2 Fram CH8530 filters for $6.50 with their coupon in the sunday paper.
On the subject of oil filters, i'm confused about which end is the top. I understand that the top is labelled on some filters, but is this the end that you insert into the filter housing? Is this the end that is pointing up when the filter and housing are installed on the engine?
OR, is the top of the filter facing downward when installed (since this appears to be where the oil enters the filter)?
What would happen if a filter were installed upside down? I have read that there is a bypass valve on the filter. Would this mean that the oil recirculating through the engine would be essentially unfiltered, if the filter were installed upside down?
I want to replace my filter again, but I want to make sure i'm doing it right this time!
I bougt a 2000 TDI there and durung a factory service they screwed up the fuel filter assy and had the car in the shop for 22 days only to return it with another leak and screwed up battery assy. THEY ARE IDIOTS!!!!
If the oilfilter is not labelled, look inside it. If there is no baffle, DO NOT BUY IT. If therre is a baffle, the perferated plastic should be UP twards the top.
There is NO BYPASS VALVE in the TDi oilfilter. (the bypass valve is perminantly built into the oil-plumbing.)
Don
Just ran across this board and it seems like a wealth of knowledge. My wife and I just bought an 06 Jetta TDI with 5 speed manual. It is our first diesel car. :shades: We live in South Florida. Questions:
1) Do we need to use fuel additives in this climate? If so which ones and why?
2) I've heard about switching out computer chips to increase mileage and/or HP. Any thoughts?
3) We do mostly city driving, but after the third tank, I calculate only 27 mpg?
4) Should I burp the tank when fueling or wait for foam to clear?
Any other thoughts or input that you think useful would be very appreciated.
1) It is a good idea. Any brand-name works well.
the "why" is improved MPG, less smoke, quieter engine, lube for the injection-pumps
2)You could do this, but not required if your goal is improved MPG
3)It takes at least 15,000 miles for TDI engine to break in. (compression to approach maximum) Also, be sure to follow break-in suggesitons found on other websites
4)Since I get over 50MPG, I figure evey gallon I can get in is another 50 miles of driving. I can get about 2 more gallons in the tank by burping and waiting for foam to subside. (that is another 100 miles!!)
Respectfully, you are just plain wrong about #3. Many folks that have measured the compression on TDIs have not only mapped out what the engine compression should be over time...they have also gatherd enough data to recommend some break-in habits to follow.
Generally, for break-in, one wants to use moderately-heavy accelleration (perhaps 10-20 seconds) followed by several minutes of easy driving.... do this over and over and over.
Technically, one needs to produce BOOST from the turbochager to force the rings against the cylinder-walls. (that is the accelleration part) This produces high loads and heat in a new engine which needs to be dissapated into the cooling system. (that is the easy driving part)
It has also been shown that TDI engines which ARE NOT properly broken in (babied during breakin) have "glazed" cylinder-walls. This glaze prevents the rings from sealing properly and such an engine may have poor MPG and consume oil for the rest of its life.
If you are asking your VW dealership about TDI engines, you may getting guesses for answers. Generally, most VW dealerships are not very TDI-savvy. Some even think that the TDI engine has a "wastegate" on the turbocharger or tell people that they do not need VW505.01 oil in their TDI engine. They just do not see enough TDIs to gain experinece with them.
also, should i start using additives from the get go? if not when? if so how often?
Thanks for the input.
After about 10K miles, you can cut back to once or twice a tankful of fuel FOR THE REST OF THE TIME YOU OWN THE VEHICLE.
If "babied" too much, The following can happen;
*)oil collects in the intercooler.
*)The vanes on the VNT get coated with soot
*)Piston rings are not forced against the cylinder-walls
Using a burst of full-throttle-accelleration will blow that oil out of the intercooler, burn the soot off the VNT vanes and help seal the rings. It also "exercizes" the turbocharger so the VBT vanes do not get stuck.
Although the TDI engine is very torquey and can pull loads at low RPMs, it likes to spend some time in the upper RPM range once in a while to keep things cleaned out.
Anyone with a TDI can tell you that after babing for awhile, a burst of full-throttle-accelleration can create a puff of smoke from the exhaust. That is all the junk being blown out of the system.
What bad things can happen if you NEVER use a burst of full-throttle-accelleration ?
*)VNT vanes can get so plugged with carbon that the turbocharger ceases to function.
*)Cylinder walls glaze over resulting in poor compression and MPG
*)Intake manifold (Cooled EGR) can plug up.
My first diesel VW Rabbit many people told me the fuel mileage would jump from the mid 30's to over 40mpg when I got 15 to 18k miles on the car. I figured they were full of 'stuff '
By 18k miles on the car it was getting 44 - 48 mpg in town.
After 2 tanks of fuel our 2006 Jetta TDI with auto trans is getting 37 mpg
I have about 120k miles on the TDI clock and really have never religously used fuel additives. I do however try to run premium diesel and I can tell a difference with that fuel. Just adding Powerservice or other additive, I've never noticed any difference. I only use it when I'm not familiar with the fuel I'm buying, or the temps are very low (say below 20ºF). BP Diesel Supreme is an excellent fuel and you should be able to find it in your region. The motor quiets down, much smoother, and I can't make it smoke even with my performance mods and a cold start. Just have to make sure it's actually BP Diesel Supreme. Sometimes they say it is but it's not. BP Diesel Supreme is crystal clear (looks like sprite, very little foam) and has a very mild odor. I can look at the fuel while it's going into the car and tell. If it has a green or yellow tint, it's not diesel supreme. BP Supreme has a much higher cetane rating and sulphur is down around 15ppm, which explains why it runs better.
As for break-in, I don't know about compression ratios or any of that, as I have no reason to monkey with my car to that extent. However, my fuel mileage had a nice steady increase to about 20k miles and has remained above 45mpg for the most part ever since.
I can testify to BP ULSD. After the original tank of diesel, I have used only BP ULSD in my new Passat. I have never seen any exhaust. The smell is less obnoxious than unleaded gas. Generally it is less per gallon than other diesel in the San Diego area. ULSD mandated is a good thing for diesel. It should go a long way in enhancing the diesel position in the car market.
http://www.flyingj.com/fuel/diesel_CF.cfm
http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/gdu/gasdiesel.asp
Use of additive is recommended year round IMHO. Unit injectors on the newer TDI or injector pump on the older TDI use very high pressures and require lubricity. Additive will add lubricity and improve cetane of the fuel.
I have measured 56MPG from my TDI using cetane-improver. When I do not put the additive in, my engine is NOISY and only gets about 50 MPG.
In severly cold temps , without antigell, the gelled fuel will plug up the fuel filter and you will not drive very far before it starves for fuel and stalls.
What additive should I be using and how much at each fill up.
Thank's...this is my first diesel and I don't know any of this stuff yet.
Most of us are stating FACTS while you simply are wasting our time having to read your baseless contradictions. Do you have any useful comments to help the folks that are asking for assistance?
I found a pack of 200 8oz paper cups and carry some in the trunk too. It is easy enough to form paper cup into "spout" and fill it to about 6oz level....then toss it out. (Diesel additive is VERY stinky and needs to be handled carefully.)
There are other good brands of diesel additive. Here is the one that VW recommends.
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/ppt_dfa.asp
None of us have to read any message we don't want to read, nor do we have to give any credence to messages that we don't find useful.
Let's just have the conversations we'd like to have and skip the ones that we don't.
Anyone using words like"bozo" and "stupid" just do not help in any practical way on any subject at any time. Once ego and pride are out of the way, those type of words should rapidly follow. If they don't, the problem then is self evident and reflects poorly on the source's ability to communicate, reason, or control their emotions effectively in a public forum.
Let's get ego and pride out of this forum, stick to the car and related practices, and try to avoid that other form of interaction please.
Back to lurking now... waiting for demand to slacken and prices to drop... and glad I'm not a moderator since this post may not initially moderate anything...
Thanks.
If your dealership does not refer you to this information when asked about additives, perhaps they are not up to speed on other aspects of TDI engines as well 8-)
But in this case, based on the data provided from VW via CPEEBLEs they do look justified at the edge of the application envelope for the car (i.e. really cold weather combined with marginal fuel). Thanks for the URL!
And it's good to see the forum back in it's groove. IMHO this is one of the best groups on the board.
Bill
One last question is there much gas mileage diff. between a manual or automatic?
Thanks
This goes right along with the discusison about using fuel additives. One of the reasons that educated folks use additives is to improve the "lubricity" of the fuel. The fuel pump(s), and injectors need to be lubricated...lest they will have a short lifespan.
As for your question about MPG difference between Manual and AUtomatic xmission.... the window sticker says it all. In real "on the road" usage, if one is buying a TDI for MPG, the manual xmission is the way to go. (up to 10MPG better than automatic)
This makes sens if one looks at the numbers.... If an automatic xmission loses 10% as compared to a manual xmission, then as the efficency of the engine goes up, so does the difference in MPG between the 2 types of xmissions.
One thing I should mention here, VW/Audi now offer a very special "automatic" xmission. The DSG xmission has been described as an "automatic manual xmission". It is based on the same technology as F1 racecars that have the paddle-shifters on the steering wheel. If you have one of these xmissions on your TDI, it is said that they get better MPG than a manual. (too bad VW/AUDI do not provide the paddle-wheels on the steering wheel ;-)
BTW: There is no"gas milage" with a TDI 8-)
Also the Jetta I'm looking at does have the DSG trans.
Regards
That is what I have trying to say all along...using diesel additive provides more power, more MPG, less smoke and quiter engine. This is not "snake oil" it is the nature of TDI engine when fed with crappy North American Diesel fuel.
Please, anyone that thinks this is not true, reseach "cetane" as it relates to what is available in North American Diesel fuel compared to what cetane level VW recommends for their TDI engine.
Sure, a TDI will *run* without cetane improver... but for my money I like to get an extra 40-60 miles out of each tank of fuel!! (that is not snake-oil my friends)
The current engine is the most intolerant to improper oil or low quality diesel. And it is important to note that the PD is desigined to run on higher cetane fuel of Europe that is typically not easily found in North America.
Does the owners manual explain intake clogging?
Does the owners manual tell you that some of it's dealers do not use the correct engine oil?
Did the owners manual provide info. on defective MAF sensors and the effect on drivability?
Did the owners manual warn that the dealer was going to put the wrong timing belt on the TDI?
Is "relay 109" problem for earlier TDI explained in the owners manual?
There are a great number "tricks" that can improve your ownership experience of a VW TDI.
People with an attitude like yours are typically the ones complaining at MyVWLemon. Careful review of anything posted and some degree of skepticism is a wise course, however, your earlier posts are inflammatory and disruptive and show a lack of knowledge or willingness to accept information.
If you only want your TDI to last until the warranty expires then use whatever oil is the cheapest, diesel fuel from stations that have a low diesel business, and drive your TDI like a gasser.
The stereo was excellent. Does anybody know if you get the same one in a Pkg Zero (dealer's words) car? The salesman I had wasn't sure.
My only quibble was that the DSG got thru 1st gear almost like it was a creeper gear. It had a little herky-jerkiness on take off as a result. Once rolling in 3rd it was excellent and I found myself quickly in the ticket zone.
I'll miss my 5 speed but my job causes me to need to be on the cell while driving so an automatic is a must have in my next car. Traffic in Austin stinks. I wish this thing had Blue Tooth. Anybody know how hard/expensive it would be to add it to the stereo? For that matter, is the stereo still a part of the car's diagnostic system like it was in my Passat? That's a real pain if you need service and have to get the factory head unit back in place...
Minutes later I drove a Ford Fusion 3.0L SEL with their auto. I must say that it drove and shifted smoother all around, but the handling was better on the VW as was the rest of the interior and general feel. That the VW will probably get 50% to 75% better fuel efficiency ices the cake. Assuming I keep the car as long as my last one I'd expect prices to average close to $4/gal during the total ownership time. So that's important.
I've been to the two local dealers near my home (north Austin, TX). On is selling for sticker, the other has some BS add on crap for a few hundred over. I told the more helpful/friendly of the two I was looking for $500 over invoice and he said to be prepared to wait about a year - but he took my name and number down. No hassle at all.
Time will tell if and when I buy one. My car is fine so I can be patient. If anybody out there has gotten a decent deal please share. I flew up to Tulsa to get my Odysee a few years ago - and save >$2000 in return for the long drive home even after factoring in air fare.