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He did say 100K miles - but when looking at manual posted on internet, was at 80K.
Best answer woudl be if VW did go to a chain, this eliminates the concern.
I know it's just dinky plastic but I think it would have helped a little bit in protecting the oil pan from driving over a dip. I have no idea why it was in my trunk instead of on my car so I called the dealership and told them. Isn't this a legal case for small claims court?? :lemon:
http://www.evolutionimport.com/Volkswagen_Skid_Plates_s/17.htm
http://members.porchlight.ca/benad/skidplate.htm
http://www.dieselgeek.com/Categories.bok?category=Skid+Plates
If the dealer does not accept responsibility. Yes I would small claims them. Worth the filing fee, if nothing else to get their name in the paper. You have a chronic problem of judging dips etc. Get the heavy aluminum skid plate.
HOWEVER: It will not protect the oilpan from frost-heaves, stones, ice-chunks and almost anything else on the road. If you are suggesting that the the dealership is somhow liable for a damaged oilpan because that thin plastic airflow-director was not installed... your argument is almost as thin as the plastic belllypan. 8-)
Alright Buckeyelarry,
I'm going to confuse you even more :surprise:
In my manual ('04 Jetta GLS TDI) in Section 1.1 2004 Volkswagen Maintenance, on page 21 it reads
"Service at 90,000 miles....
...
...
...
Timing Belt: Replace (TDI engine only)...."
So, according to my Owner's Manual, the scheduled interval for Timing Belt Replacement is 90K miles (or about every 3.5 years for me)
What kind of mileage are owners of the new Jetta TDI getting? I've heard from other folks that after it's broken in their seeing 50 mph highway or even slightly better. Has anyone here experienced that? "
Yes, I have an 04 Jetta GLS TDI 5M that I purchased new in April of 04 and have hand calculated every take (I'm a little OCD about it).
It is now almost 2 years since I purchased it and I have just under 53K miles on it.
I, now, AVERAGE 45MPG in mixed driving.
I Average 53MPG on the hwy @ ~67mph.
I average 49MPG on the hwy @ ~75mph.
The absolute Best was 54mpg over a 230miles stretch @ 58mph, but that is not the norm, I was driving to acheive fuel economy.
I average 42mpg city.
My WORST was 36mpg in 100% city, in snow and alot of idling.
My figures are WELL ABOVE EPA estimates and they have gotten slightly better with mileage. BUT to get this kind of mileage you have to know how to drive for fuel economy. AND having a 5 speed manual really helps.
ALAS, tomorrow is my last full day with my Jetta, I traded it Yesterday on a minivan (I couldn't hold out any longer for VW to bring over the Touran or the Sharan with a diesel.......or even a full sized minivan with a diesel...or chrysler or anybody....I just wanted a diesel minivan.... )....oh, as I was saying....I traded it and I take delivery of my new minivan Saturday Morning. So instead of being a three diesel family (03 Ford F350 CC KR PSD, 04 Jetta GLD TDI, 05 Passat GLS TDI) We'll just be a two diesel and one *cough*gasoline*cough* family.
and
VW Sharan Sport 2.0TDI
Then, in about 2002... there was a change to the LONG LIFE belt (and associated better tensionor and stuff.)
Of course, starting with the new "Pumpe Duse" engine, the design is COMPLETELY different. So new recommendations were published.
BOTTOM LINE: You are ALL correct... it is just that you are all looking at the recommendations for different years, xmissions and TDI engines.
thanks
Please if anyone know of a good place that charges less or a best option to avoid these dealers...I'd really appreciate the info.
Thanks.
Jimmy
1. get the oil changer unit here : http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45403 or http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?resultCt=1&js- pStoreDir=wm51&catalogId=10001&productId=81053&keyword=3704574&y=18&x=13&storeId- =10001&ddkey=SiteSearch
which one do you recommend?
2. follow directions n suck out the old oil.
3. which motol oil should i use to replace the old one? and how to I replace it? using the oil changer unit I used to remove the old one?
4. How do I remove the filter and replace it? Where can I get a new filter and what kind? Engine or Oil filter?
I'm talkin about a VW 2005 Jetta 2.5 engine (gas engine)...
you also mentioned a snowscreen, this might sound stupid but what is a snowscreen?
I really don't want to visit the dealer... I'm not about to add to their profits.
Any suggestions will really help.
Thanks.
HOWEVER: You should use your telephone to call around to determine prices. DO NOT just ask for the cost of a 10K mile service.... instead, be very specific about what work you want performed.
If you decide to do it yourself....
The oil filters can be found at Wallmart.
Make CERTAIN you use the correct engine oil. The engine oil for your pumpe-duse engine is NOT available at Wallmart (nor much of anywhere else in North America.)
For starters,you might wish to play around with the above calculator. So for example the tire sizes you mentioned are pretty close in overall REVS/MILE. But this is only the START!! There are LOTS of factors that can accurately and inaccurately affect/effect fuel mileage.
So a bit off topic, I have the 195/65/15's on steel rims as oem. The tires are inexpensive in comparison to larger sizes and infinitely available. For what I use the vehicle and after much research would not think to go to the 205/55/16 route. One reason? I operate this Jetta TDI on acknowledged some of the most worse roads in the country. The extra aspect ratio (65 vs 55) serves as a cushion. Take off's in the 195/65/15 sizes are readily available complete with oem rubber. So if you find you don't like them, they are pretty easy to sell, and you haven't lost an arm and a leg.
Also the oem sachs struts and shocks take a load of vilification. Baring strut/shock leakage in my case, it will easily go 100,000 miles. Have they fallen off a bit? Of course they ALL do! Also the oem GY LSH's have taken vilification. Again in my case for what I use the vehicle they will be good to go easily to 100,000 miles.
I think I'll do that.. I'll call them up tomorrow and find out how much the oil change & filter will cost me. Nothing else rightnow. I don't want to have heart attack on car that is less that 6months old. Just returned from Walmart too and they didn't have the filter & besides, I have stopped by two shops already and I think you're right they don't seem to have the VW 500 00 or 500 01 oil. That sort of leaves me w/little or no alternatives. When I checked on VW what to check, it was @ 10K miles and these were the critical stuff listed:
* Engine Oil - change
* Engine Filter - change
* Windshield Washer Fluid - check level
* Automatic Shift Lock - check operation
* Brake System - check damage/leaks, pad thickness, fluid level
* Wheels - rotate from front to rear
And I think the first two are the most important and the rest can take a line.
Thanks for the response.
Ooh and why do they call those VW Jetta tires "High Performance tires" and they only last 40-50K? I just don't understand the concept behind these technology of bridgestone and the tires are so expensive that I almost say i'll cut my arm and leg to buy just 1.
-jones
That is why I will NEVER EVER buy an automobile with those "oversize" tires (> 15 inch) The tire makers are asking a premium for anything over 15inch wheelsize. Most people are not aware of the DRAWBACKS of having less rubber between the wheel and the road. There is a reason that tires have been 14 or 15 inch for over 30 years!
I reciently read an article in "Consumer Reports" magazine about these oversized tires and the unexpected cost that many folks are encountering. Apparently, most folks do not consider long-term maintenance costs when they select an automobile.
Some people beleive that the tire-manufacturers are encuraging the automakers to put the >15 inch tires on new cars by giving them a good deal on the tires.... the tire-manufacturers know they will have captive buyers when the original tires start to wear out.
BTW: The 15 inch tires on my Jetta were less than $90 each for some very good tires. (The same-brand tire in 17-inch are well over $140 each )
i have a 2006 jetta tdi that just had it's first service. the indicator light began a count down before it became due. the dealer was not able to figure out how to reset it after 2 trips. can anyone help me reset this so it doesn't drive me nuts every time i turn it on?
Thanks for the info and suggestions b.
Using the example of "(The same-brand tire in 17-inch are well over $140 each )" with luck getting 40,000 miles,; my oem tires 195/65/15 (GY LS-H) at $70 per, will (with NO alignments 95 per or balancing 6-15 per and 5 tire rotations I do myself at 10,000 mile intervals) will easily get 100,000 miles.
So over 100,000 miles the 40k miles/ 140 each 17 in tires will cost 2.5 x 140 = 350 PER corner vs 70.!!!???? In the same period of time you will have a min of 2.5 balances at 12-15 or 37.50 vs 15. I am also assuming one will get an alignment with each new set of tires for 95 x 2.5 or 237.50 or an extra 59.38 per corner
So the numbers are (350+37.50+59.38=)
$446.88 vs $ 70.00 (ok if I need an alignment at 100,000 add 23.75 per corner for 93.75.
So the cost per mile 100,000 miles=.0044688 vs .0007.
amount of air in the combustion chamber"
First of all.... CLEAN THE SNOWSCREEN! A plugged snowscreen is the #1 reason that a TDI is not getting enough air. (it should be cleaned annually)
Since you did not mention any starting issues, I would then suggest that you check the vanes in the turbocharger. If you have not been applying FULL THROTTLE accelleration regularly, the vanes are most likely sticking. This could cause the turbocharger to not shove enough air into the engine.
If the above checks out OK, then you need your car connected to a computer to check the injection timing. Since you already changed the timing belt -- the fuel-pump is suspect.
BTW: are you CERTAIN that you installed a TDI MAF? The MAF for the 2.0L gas engine looks exactly the same as TDI MAF but can make smoke. (GAS MAF is much less expensive than TDI MAF... some places sell GAS MAF as a TDI one... DO NOT BE FOOLED!)
I think the look of the 16" makes a night and day difference to the look of the car. Would never go with 15's. But everyone has their personal preference. Looks vs. Practicality.
I have a 2004 Jetta TDI wagon. I have been back and forth to the dealer for the following problem: when I turn the key to the glow plug, a vibrating/rattle sound comes from about the gas tank (so, I think- fuel pump). VW, under warranty, replaced the "tandem fuel pump" but said that was at the front of the car-engine. The rattle/vibrate sound is still there. Isn't there a fuel pump in the gas tank-like a vacuum?- plastic lines that go up to the fuel filter?? I am confused and I can't get a striaight answer. Where (Located on the car) is the "tandem fuel pump" and the replaced "fuel/vacuum pump" that the VW invoice states has been replaced? - Much thanks to anyone who can help.
To answer your question... there is a pump in the fuel tank that feeds fuel up to the fuel filter. You did not specify which TDI engine you have (pumpe duse?) and the fuel-handling is different depending on which engine you have.... but in any case, that part of the fuel handling is under the hood and not at the rear of the vehicle.
NOW: Please tell us why you think this sound is a "problem"? Does it affect the operation of the vehicle? Can you even hear it while the engine is running?
"http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=134924"
The problem for VW is new Euro 5 (2008) and American Tier 2 tailpipe emissions regs (2007). These new regs will require the installation of particulate traps for Europe and particulate traps and some kind of advanced NOx reducing devices that are just now being developed for the U.S. Problem is that VW cannot control this equipment with computers using unit injection, and they must redesign their whole fleets with commonrail injection.
Even with the new design, VW will struggle trying to meet the outlandishly strict limits on NOx in the U.S. While Daimler-Chrysler has a system called "Blue-Tec", that uses exhaust treatment systems that will permit their diesels to be fifty-state legal, this is expensive technology. Applying this technology to cars like the Jetta and Golf that are marketed to the lower-middle class will be a difficult economic delimma. Right now, you can get a TDI diesel for $1,000 more than a 2.5 and get 40% better fuel economy. With all this pollution equipment, they may add as much a premium as hybrid technology.
We can thank our EPA, who in their wisdom, have decided to require diesels to go from 1.0 gram per mile for NOx to .2 gram per mile without a cost-friendly technological means to do so. Never mind the fact that diesels emit fewer carbon monoxides, hydrocarbons, and carbon dioxides than average gasoline cars. Never mind that diesels average 35% better fuel economy than gasoline counterparts. Never mind that all diesel engines can accept biodiesel without engine modification and has the highest energy content of any alternative fuel. Never mind the fact that biodiesel in its pure form will only reduce fuel economy five to ten percent versus ethanol which can reduce fuel economy up to 30% in a vehicle that already uses 30% more fuel. And never mind the fact that Europeans choose the diesel option 50% of the time over gas, because of their superior fuel economy and superior torque, while America continues to pretend like the technology does not exist.
In essence, the EPA is giving diesel cars the "death penalty" for a while in the U.S., just when the opportunity to bring them with ULSD fuel just became available. Sure, we'll see diesels in 2007, but they'll be in the high margin vehicles: SUVs and luxury sedans, i.e Mercedes Benz.
Time to revamp the EPA & CARB.
I believe the EPA and CARB have increased our consumption and need for imported oil and done very little to clean the air. They have done everything possible to stifle the use of highly efficient diesel and promote poor performing ethanol like it’s going to free the world.
And this flex car stuff. Use E85 and loose 25% efficiency??
Let’s look at this using a gallon of gas as a benchmark.
On a gallon of diesel/bio diesel I can go 28 miles @ 40% more efficient.
On a gallon of gas I can go 20 miles. (Benchmark)
On a gallon of E85 gas I can go 15 miles @ 25% less efficient
So under the US plan (EPA, CARB) I go from 28MPG diesel to 15MPG E85.
I’m loosing 13 miles per gallon, I’m increasing my use of oil and I’m spending more to do it.
Brilliant, absolutely brilliant.
Only in America.
So, how do we as ordinary citizens start a movement to overhaul the EPA?
That is good question. I believe I will write a letter to my senators and congressmen. Letting them know that the current direction of both CARB & EPA are not helping us solve anything, except Exxon & ADM's net profit. Promoting Ethanol where it is practical may be OK. Not in states that have logistical barriers. Biodiesel and promoting diesel cars is a more progressive approach to the fossil fuel usage problem. It is a shame that VW is being squeezed out of the diesel picture. The only company that has hung in over the years.
Thanks
Thanks
good luck
i've heard something about more 2-a-reg TDIs arriving in USA, maybe doubling the # from 500 to 1000!
We cannot decide between the TDI and the Toyota Camry. I know that the MPG is different, but the TDI is a new model for '06 and I am a little leery of this. Toyota does have a great reputation for quality and reliability.
Can anyone offer some assistance or advice?
Thanks.
Jeff
I think that Jetta has higher quality than anything else in the price-range. The fit, feel and finish is impeccable. Dont forget that Jetta is more like a $35,000 Audi from that perspective.
Also.... the Toyota will NEVER EVER travel over 600 miles on a tank of fuel. I like that my TDI can do that every time. (more like 700 miles if I am on a highway trip)
With the price of fuel these days and no end in sight (petrolium experts predict even higher prices in our near future) The TDI seems to be more cost-effective than anything else out there.
(Hybrids have a HUGE drawback... $3000 to replace the batteries)