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Calm Down, It's Not Ruined - 2016 Mazda MX-5 Miata Convertible Long-Term Road Test

Edmunds.comEdmunds.com Member, Administrator, Moderator Posts: 10,316
edited March 2016 in Mazda

imageCalm Down, It's Not Ruined - 2016 Mazda MX-5 Miata Convertible Long-Term Road Test

Reversing the effects of sandstorm damage by detailing our long-term 2016 Mazda MX-5 Miata.

Read the full story here


Comments

  • lmbvettelmbvette Member Posts: 93
    Nicely done, Mark.

    Can you specify the buffer equipment used and technique for doing the passes?
    Don't worry about what other people think. Drive what makes you happy.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Good job! We must keep in mind, though, that any abrasive is slowly but surely taking away clear coat--so there are limitations on how far you want to go with this.
  • bankerdannybankerdanny Member Posts: 1,021
    I would say the nose is still noticeably duller than the hood, but it's a huge improvement.

    You should look into headlight lens protection film. As a commenter mentioned on an earlier thread about the damage, the restoration process on the lenses removes the UV protection. A high quality film should restore that protection and prevent the lens from dulling over time.
  • audilaw16audilaw16 Member Posts: 7
    Looks great, but the nose definitely looks a bit matted and less glossy than the hood. Maybe it's just the photo/angle though.
  • slick61slick61 Member Posts: 6
    ya know... when I read about the sandstorm mishap, my first thought was... "Meguiar's HQ is right down in Irvine... all the writers/contributors should be REQUIRED to attend one of their weekend detailing classes at some point... this kind of thing is easily within the realm of the "do-it-yourselfer". The DA makes it pretty idiot-proof. A smaller diameter pad might've worked better for some of the tighter areas around the bumper, but nice save!
  • kirkhilles1kirkhilles1 Member Posts: 863
    Congrats! Looks nice.
  • defyant15defyant15 Member Posts: 74
    Very curious to see if this will hold up after a few weeks in the rain and sun. I've seen faded old cars look great after a wax and polish - for a few days.
    Good job Mark - awesome effort and looks great
  • desmoliciousdesmolicious Member Posts: 671
    " I did pop the hood and with a quick brushing with some gloved hands and a blast of compressed air got most of the sand off the engine. Getting the rest off would require pulling the spark plug wires, which I'll get around to later as well."

    Much better to have used a vacuum like a Shop Vac. Suck up the sand, instead of blowing/moving it elsewhere.
  • mtakahashimtakahashi Member Posts: 31
    lmbvette said:

    Nicely done, Mark.

    Can you specify the buffer equipment used and technique for doing the passes?

    Check out the Grand National post here: http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/features/1987-buick-regal-grand-national-long-term-road-test-maintenance.html

    Scroll down about 3/4 of the way down the page and you'll find my three-part series.
  • dgcamerodgcamero Member Posts: 148
    lmbvette said:

    Nicely done, Mark.

    Can you specify the buffer equipment used and technique for doing the passes?

    Not sure exactly what they used, but Harbor Freight has a great dual action buffer for half the price of any comparable machine. Definitely suggest starting with one of those, doing a couple of modifications (the grease mainly) and upgrading to a Rupes or Flex if you get a bit of a detailing itch. Do not skimp on the pads though!
    mtakahashi said:

    lmbvette said:

    Nicely done, Mark.

    Check out the Grand National post here: http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/features/1987-buick-regal-grand-national-long-term-road-test-maintenance.html

    Scroll down about 3/4 of the way down the page and you'll find my three-part series.

    And Mark, you should try some of Meguiars microfiber heavy cutting pads with some D300 on the nose, now that you have a feel for the machine. Much faster and harder cutting, and way easier on the hands and arm joints. Definitely need a pad cleaning brush and hopefully an air blaster connected to a large air compressor to keep the pad clean.
  • speed12silspeed12sil Member Posts: 23
    But the clear coat is still going to be thinner than before and/or just gone by now. So no, it won't just "buff right out". The correct thing would be to get it clear coated again, but then that could cost (much more) money...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited April 2016
    Clear coat is just paint and all paint will "wear away" in daily use millimeter by millimeter layer. You gain some protections with clear coat (UV) and lose other qualities (swirls show more). We're just talking a roadster here, not a Rembrandt. The Miata just got a head start on the patina process. :)

    Maybe it depends on whether you want something fun to drive or something fun to look at in your garage.
  • rosamond_carosamond_ca Member Posts: 4
    I agree that the paint can be saved, but it's the headlight lenses that I would be concerned about. Though I am not a fan of the "clear bra" (for your car) it's these expensive headlights (where it's not just a bulb change) that I do advocate for the headlight film to be applied to protect the lens.
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