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All seem to have the same amount of thread wear.
But rotate if you want and change the oil every 3000 miles if you got time and money to waste.
Others may differ.
That's what makes horse races.
Even vehicles with pretty good alignment will eventually get irregular wear, and this is especially true on FWD as the rears wear fairly slowly compared to the front and as much more suspectibleto this.
Might be true if one has to pay for rotations..however, Discount Tire will rotate for tires free, even if you didn't buy them there. They are in many states. Flat repairs are free also.
I am not connected in any way with Discount Tires, other than as a customer.
You can get the tires rotated at the dealer during a regular service interval with the oil changes for a few extra dollars.
Something isn't right but so far nothing has been done by the dealer or Toyota except to document and add oil. Any ideas or have any of you had similar problems with the 2007 Camry?
Assuming an even 4 quarts, that's about 1 quart every 3000 miles. Not exceptional under normal circumstances. However, if you aren't changing oil during that 11,000 miles but just adding when needed, oil consumption like that is predictable.
I'm more concerned about gas mileage. You say nil about driving style--that's the single biggest factor in getting good mileage. How do you rate in that factor?
The LE only holds just a hair over 4 qts of oil (w/filter)to begin with. If you assume changing oil at 4K miles, that's over a quart of oil every oilchange, or 25% of the total volume of oil in the car. I have an LE 4cylinder with over 12K miles, hasn't dropped below full mark on the stick. No way is that oil consumption acceptable for a brand new vehicle. Since it hasn't been stated that an oil leak is noticed (you'd notice that much oil on the ground), it must be burning it. Whether an oil ring is missing or hasn't ever set properly, or something is defective where it is sucking the oil into the intake...something is definitely wrong.
IMO, jumping to conclusions and advocating drastic action or suggesting alarmist situations without of any really meaningful information is a bit premature. Nuff said.
That said, It's none of our business anyway, so I'll just back on out of this one. Cheers.
Today I had the opportunity to drive my V6 2007 Camry in the snow for the first time since it was purchased. There is a difference in a cable / linkage controlled throttle, and a drive by wire controlled throttle, when traveling on snow covered roads.
When plowing through deep snow in the streets, you cannot pump the accelerator with a "drive by wire vehicle", since there is a delay in the response of the throttle, as opposed to the throttle controlled by "linkage" or a "cable"! Part of my trip was on two lane back roads, so I operated the vehicle in manual 2,3 and 4 depending on the road conditions. This gave me maximum control of the vehicle.
My 2003 4 cylinder automatic Accord gave me more control in the snow than the V6 Camry. The rear of the Camry has a tendancy to try to "slide out" left or right, when one of the front wheels meets resistance from deep snow! When turning into a street, (right angle turn), keeping the rear from sliding in the opposite direction of the turn is a concern with this vehicle. This could be the result of learning to drive a "drive by wire vehicle"!
I am NOT unhappy with the performance of the vehicle in the snow, but it is different than the Accord, and it will take some time to become familiar with the operating characteristics of a "drive by wire vehicle"!
Best regards. ----- Dwayne
Are they some kind of modified cloth, or a different material altogether?
"Burning" that much oil during a time period when you should have had two oil changes is very unusual.
As far as the other person on here saying it is normal, I disagree with that person. That is not normal, especially not for a new car.
I would be worried and upset if my '07 Camry "burnt" that much oil after I had an oild change. If I were you I would go to a different dealer because any Toyota dealer can do the work for you.
Please help!!!! :confuse:
If the software were the problem, why didn't Toyota fix the others from earlier production by just porting the new software into the engine/transmission controls. They switched valve bodies, replaced transmissions, and drivers still have trouble.
It's not that simple.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Besides some new paint colors, I wonder if they will have a new wood trim color for the XLEs? Maybe more widespread availability of some options that are in the brochures, but not actually produced in many regions (4 cylinder models with VSC on the west coast and so forth). The new 2008 Accord will likely have VSA standard even on the 4 cylinder models, so I wouldn't be surprised if the 2008 Camry also has it standard or it is at least widely available as an option nationwide.
Factory satellite radio included in the JBL stereo (as opposed to the dealer or port-installed add-on that costs several times what it should and requires interior disassembly to install)?
As to the 6 cylinder, I can't speak for it.
These forums attract people with problems like a magnet. Misery loves company I suppose.
I read the Honda forums mostly and I watch as people have some oddball problem that I have NEVER heard of and then others chime in..."Oh, I checked and mine does the same thing" Some peoblems are real and others get vastly overblown. If you read too much into these problems you will be scared to buy ANYTHING!
Of course, I perfer Hondas to Toyota but Toyota builds great cars that cause far less trouble than most makes.
They just wouldn't receive satellite radio. Everything else would work.
Very few people are having problems with their cars. I had a TSB perfromed because I was having "minor" issues that I didn't think was a problem until someone said it was a problem. The TSB was available to me so I had it done and now my car is driving better than it was before. There were a few rattles but everything was fixed under warranty....so no big deal. I love my car. I got the JBL stereo and highly recommend it as an option.
The Camry looks great, rides smoothly, shifts smoothly, and I think it is a lot of fun to drive. MY ADVICE, do not just go out and buy a car without shopping around and looking at other cars AND definitely go for a long test drive.
Good luck!!
All cars use SOME oil. They have to.
A quart every 3000 miles is probably considered withing normal limits. Back in the "old days" it was pretty normal for a car to go through a quart of oil every 1000 miles and nobody thought anything of it.
I think I would rather spend a dollar on a quart of oil once in awhile than have someone tear my engine apart and "maybe" improve consumption.
I once had a Pontiac GTO that used a quart of oil every 800 miles like clockwork. It never got any worse and that old GTO was a great car!
And, to be quite honest, if I wanted a really fast car I wouldn't have bought a Camry.
Are you using 0-20 weight engine oil? (Hard to find by the way)... if you are, I suggest switching to the optional 5-20 oil. Also a blocked air filter can increase oil consumption, and a bad PCV can do it too (a buildup of pressure)
I have heard that that much consumption will lead to a catalytic converter failure unless you take long (hot) trips often.
I agree with isellhondas that this amount of oil usage is not a cause for concern. I'm assuming that the owner with the issue has changed the oil according to Toyota's schedule: 6 months or 5000 miles, whichever comes first.
Back to what Kiawah said about his cars never using oil, this has been true only for my 4 most recent cars, including all 3 Camrys I have owned (all 4 cylinders) plus my 1998 Nissan Frontier.
But all my cars before that (dating back to 1975) used some oil, some more than others. The two VW Rabbits I owned were notorious for excessive oil consumption, and the EPA recalled my '79 for VW to replace the valve stem seals, which were deteriorating prematurely (causing oil burning and excessive hydrocarbon emissions).
thanks
I have a 2004 Camry with a moonroof, and no doubt the 2007's is similar. There is some wind noise with the roof tilted open, but it's not that extreme at 55-65 mph. If you open it all the way, you'll definitely get more noise, but there is an accessory deflector sold by Toyota (I don't have it).
Still, I often ride around with the roof fully open on my commute (55 mph roads).
You can always leave the roof closed and just enjoy the view by opening the sunshade!
Can anyone who has had a former Toyota extended warranty let me know how long it took to obtain paperwork from Toyota once they purchased their extended warranty? I got the original 1-piece sales literature from the dealship with limited verbage but would like to know minute details such as do they provide road towing?, loaner rides during a weekend especially if the Camy is in the shop for a protracted stay, etc.
Finally, if and when the 3yr/36k warranty lapses and you get a damaged tire requiring a complete tire replacement does this mean if the tire repair facility somehow damages one of the air presure sensors and a replacement is required, do we have to eat the cost of bringing the vehicle to a Toyota dealership getting rid of the offending air pressure dash light since the replaced tire might or might not have it's original "personized" sensor intact. Sounds simple but in New York City I believe we will fail inspection if there exists either a DTC or any vehicle dash indicator. Tahnks everyone!....
Two-three weeks.
Yes.
TirePressure.....Each of the 5 tires has a transmitter, which transmits it's 7digit ID# and it's pressure. The TPMS computer monitors these to ensure all are within tolerance. If you have to replace a sensor, be sure to have the tire dealer write down the new ID#. There is a dealer initialization process that they go thru, using a hand held TPMS tool.
The service manual for TPMS, indicates that there is a small black reset button to the left of the glove compartment (after opening it). I haven't personally done this, and proceed further on your own risk....all standard legal and self diagnosis disclaimers apply. It appears that the reset process is as follows. Inflate all the tires to their correct pressure. Turn on the Ignition, hold the reset button for greater than 3 secs. When the initialization begins it will blink the TPMS light 3 times, on and off for a second each. The TPMS ECM will then begin reading the sensors, taking approximately a minute per read. The initialization is completed, when the ECM reads successfully from all 5 sensors the pressure.
Note: it is not real clear to me whether this reset process can be used if a sensor was replaced, or whether this is just used to reset after a low tire pressure detection. There is a separate area of the TPMS service manual, which has a statement that the dealer intialization has to be used to 'register' the new TPMS ID.
I currently have a 2007 Camry Hybrid with the Smart Key system, and no valet key, so I can't say for sure, but it seems to me that on previous Camry's I have had, most recent 2003, there was a lever in the trunk to deactivate the "inside the car lever", so access to the trunk could be locked out. Can anyone confirm this? (I could be dreaming, as I never had a use for the valet key anyway....)
Isn't that why the folding rear seats have the levers in the trunk???
This alleviates Swong 6's concern about being able to get into the trunk, via the valet key.
Thanks....
You're welcome! I knew that there HAD to be a way!
The Avalon does it differently because the trunk release is push button.
Simply provide a key lock on the trunk release lever itself.
No manual-reading required.
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