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1) lower auto insurance on the older car.
2) fewer transaction costs.
3) far more flexibility should your circumstances change.
4) far less financial risk.
Another statement like that, and we'll have to cancel your CCBA membership.
In this forum, I'd have to agree with you, though.
-Mathias
A useful response would be to give numerical examples of each of the two approaches, then to discuss the relative merits.
Do you wish to be helpful. . .
or correct?
or correct?
I do not know how to attach a spreadsheet to my post. Nor do I have the time. It is hard to explain the calculations in plain text.
The idea behind my post was not to spoon feed, but to point him in the right direction. If he is interested, he can find out how to do these calculations. One good resource is
http://www.teachmefinance.com
Instead of criticizing me, why don't you yourself give numerical examples?
Do you wish to be helpful or just want to slam me? Geez!
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AH! ok. so now we know what its for, who will be driving it, etc. My advice is to buy a slightly used certified car outright. You get something that is just as good as new (lets say less than 15k miles) AND, in most cases, when certified, the warranty is even better than when it was new (many certified warrantys are 100k mile compared to the factory 36k mile warranty).
you won't have to worry about the number of miles. And, in the end, if you buy the right car, it will still have some value and can be driven longer, sold, traded in, or what have you.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
at possibly a major repair for a broken crankshaft pulley, and I do not want to keep
putting money into this car. My wife likes the new Jetta, but I am curious as to
what kind of lease payment we would have with about 4K of negative equity. I don't
know how much I can help her pay towards a new ride, but having a warranty is a huge issue at the moment.
http://h1.ripway.com/RedlineJunkie/Public/LeaseCalculator.xls
Doesn't drive many miles and has a below average driving record.
I'm incorporated (S corp.) in NY. Currently financing an '03 Altima 3.5 SE and have $10,013 left in payments (~2yrs left) and 87K miles on it (we drive a lot, but expect not to in the future). We want to get rid of the Altima due to the high miles since we will be left having paid about $27K with a car that has insane high miles on it. The wife and I are trying to decide if we should lease or buy.
I keep reading that, if incorporated, it's best to lease due to write-offs. However, from what I know, that only works in your favor, in NY at least, if the car you lease is worth more than $25K, since that is the most you can write-off over 5 years (on a purchased car). Aren't I better off financing a car costing $25K or less and owning it at the end, since i can write that amount off as well.
Whereas with leasing, I'm a slave to higher monthly payments, higher insurance cost, and will always have to worry about car payments. Is the tax break really worth it?
If someone has experience with this and can recommend either buying or leasing for an incorporated individual, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
I see far too many of my fellow shipmates getting in over their heads buying their first car. They get hit with hideous interest rates and overpay all the time.
By the way, what is your son's rate?
1. If I don't have a down payment and I want to lease a new car, but I have a trade-in, will the dealer take what could have been a down payment from my trade-in value? For instance, if my car is worth $10,000 and the dealer wanted $3,000 down payment for the new lease, would they give me $7,000 pay-off on my trade-in?
If I owed $10,000 on my current car , I would then have to finance the remaining $3,000 with my current loan, right?
So I would have a lease payment, plus the loan payment from my old car for whatever was left that the trade-in didn't cover, right?
2. I'm currently driving a 2002 Accord, but I want to get something newer and I think a lease would work out well for me. I owe $14,000 on the Accord, and it's only worth $10,000 - so I'm upside down $4,000. I assume that doesn't get worked in to the lease.
Thanks everyone for your help!
With a lease, the cap cost is the amount you are leasing. Let's say you are looking at a car with a $30k MSRP. You negotiate down to $28k. But, you have no down payment, so the fees that you are failing to pay out of pocket get added back in. Now you're cap cost is $29k, let's say. Oh, but now you have $2k negative equity in your trade. That now bumps your cap cost to $31k. So now the paperwork shows you basically leasing $31k on a $30k car.
I'm sort of oversimplifying, but it is pretty simple. If you have negative equity in your trade (which you are saying you do) and you have no downpayment, then you could be in for a tough time ... depending on the vehicle you are looking to lease. If it has big discounts, then no problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
In the meantime, if you accumulate enough money to buy a new car for cash, then it would be OK to buy a new car.
My friend, who has been wanting to get the 06 Touareg, is deciding to do this because payments to finance the car is too much.
From what I know, it would be a lot better to just finance from the start. How much more can she expect to spend? Do you guys think it's worth doing this just to have the car that you want?
Of course not.
There are a lot of nice cars these days for very reasonable prices. She should reduce the stress in her life and buy a car she can easily afford. No fancy options. I was 53 years old before we got our first car with alloy wheels and a moonroof.
What is the usual process for this? Can I go into a Lexus dealer with the seller and pay off their lease on the spot?
Thanks in advance
Both my wife and I are able to write off our business use of the vehicle, but from what a friend has explained the tax incentives are relatively equal for lease vs. purchase (we are in Canda).
Our 03 Jetta GLI was supposed to be with us for longer than 3 yrs, but our needs/wants have changed and we want to move into the CUV/Wagon market. We purchased the Jetta cash, and can purchase the SRX cash as well.
Cost of the new SRX is about 46K USD, while the same car used with about 8K should be had for about 33K USD. We would get the certified extended warranty (6 yr/100K)
Assuming that we want to change vehicles every 3 yrs, we are trying to figure out if we should purchase or lease in our scenario.
My first instinct is to purchase the used vehicle, getting rid of monthly payments and that 'drive off the lot' depreciation.
Any advice is appreciated.
Van G
Thanks,
Angela
This should help.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/leasing/articles/78385/article.html
Can you tell us what vehicle you're looking at? We can send you to a discussion where you can get more specific advice on the vehicle you want.
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The 525i that I've priced is $46800 (negotiated price). The monthly lease rate for a 36 month 15k lease is approximately $520 (based on my calculations-I could be a little off). Auto financing rates in this area are 7.5-8%. Home Equity Line/Loan rates for me are 7.75-8.5%.
At this point in my life I would rather not pay cash-nor make a large down payment for a car to keep the payments reasonable. I'd rather preserve the cash for other uses--most notably a new baby!
So leasing seems like a decent way to proceed--but since I know so little about it, I want to make sure it's the right thing to do--especially if I buy the car at the end of the lease (which I intend to do) and keep at minimum of 6 years.
The Home Equity line is attractive as well, since I do not have any kind of mortgage on my house.
So..would it make sense to pay for the car using a Home Equity Line or Loan.. or better ..would t make more sense to use home equity to purchase the car--or lease it?
Maybe a compromise--lease it for 36 months--then buy it with the home equity. Since the effective lease interest rate is around 1.7%.
Any thoughts, opinions, suggestions? Thanks very much!
If you still like it after 3 years, then you can make whatever decision is best for you at that time.
If you lease it, don't put any money down... get the maximum value out of the low finance cost..
Also, negotiate the lowest price possible, then make sure that the dealer is using the base rate money factor and only charging $625 for the acq.fee.. Most BMW dealers will mark-up both of those numbers for extra profit..
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
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Knowing I will over the allowed mileage, I plan on purchasing the vehicle at lease end. Rather than financing the residual value at used car rates,negotiating a lower buy out at the outset results in a lower amount financed. I know the payments will be higher on the lease, but with the low interest rate factors being offered by some manufactures, the incresed depreciation could be financed for less interest charges.
As far as negotiating a lower residual, I always thought it was set based on mileage at the end of lease. But you can always ask. IF you can negotiate the residual, please come back and post it so others can possibly use this information.
IMHO, you stated before that your house is paid for. Could you have used a tax deduction this year? If you use the Home Equity line of credit you can write off the interest paid on your taxes next year. Just a thought
A dealer has offered me the buyout price for a leased 2004 XC70 w/ 25000 mi for $26,000. Also,the option to purchase an extended 100,000 mi/or/3 yr certified warranty for an additional $1500. I have been offered $6000 for my 1999 XC70 w/ 96000 miles. Dealer has assessed my car to be in Excellent condition (stated that rarely or never happens). He says there is no room for negotiation as the buyout price is stated on lease agreement (showed me a copy). Is this a good deal?
If you are getting a tax advantage, then just lease and forget about purchasing afterwards. Just make sure you have enough miles allowed so yo don't have to pay an overage amount at the end of lease.
MSRP $33,500
Purchase: $30,000 plus 5% sales tax= $31,500.
$31,500 @ 5.5% for 60 months=601.68x60=$36,100
Lease: Cap $30,000
Residual 40%x$33500=$13,400
Rate .00059 = 1,41%
Lease $511x36= $18,396 (Includes 5% ST)
Purchase at End
$13,400 + 5%Sales Tax= $14,070
$14,070 @6% for 24m=623.59x24=$14,966
Total lease+purchase=$33,362
Total if Purchase $36,100
Savings $2,738
My original computation had a lower residual value
resulting in a greater savings.I recomputed the lease at 40% as a more realistic figure.
Still leaves you $2000 to the positive side by leasing..
But, most cars that have that kind of leasing incentive (low money factor) would also have some sort of purchase incentive (3.9 financing or $1500 rebate).
Not saying it can't happen.... but, it would be a rare case...
regards,
kyfdx
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Edmunds Lease Calculator
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What car are you thinking about doing this with?
This is what I learned - that swapalease is cheap but unreliable - most of the cars on swapalease are already sold, often several months out of date.
And that leasetrader, despite charging fees for membership and creditchecking everyone on the site - so giving the impression of running a tight ship, in which every buyer and seller is properly vetted - will happily take a transfer fee from you for cars that are simply ineligible.
This happened to me - I paid Leasetrader $150 to organise the transfer of a Ford Escape, but the financing company refused - they didn't permit transfers on cars that had less than 13 months left on the lease. So now I have no car, Leasetrader has my $150 and they're refusing to pay it back on account of "it's not our fault, it's the seller".
SO THE MORAL OF THE STORY - AVOID LEASETRADER.COM!
Check out the email that I received from the dealer salesperson:
"The selling price would be different on a buy and on a lease (im sure
you
researched it). My guess is that you would need to know first if your
A.
going to be leasing B. if your going to be buying and C. when you would
be
making your "final" decision. Whatever number you get on a lease that
you
think is the best number run it by me since you are shopping prices.
Let me know."
What?????!!!!! What kind of crap is he trying to pull?? someone tell me if I'm completely off base here, but last I looked/read, there's no difference in the price if you buy/lease. I've read time and time again, that you should negotiate the price of the car as if you were going to purchase it... So, what's the deal??
Somoeone help me out here because I'm really starting to lose my mind with these sneaky, lying salespeople!!
Thanks,
Maradag
You can either make him an offer that is not contingent on whether you lease or buy, or just walk on over to another dealership.
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Honda Accord is a good example. If you buy, there is a $750 dealer cash incentive... but, if you lease.. no dealer cash incentive, but they have below-market money factors.
If you tell us what kind of car you are shopping, we might know if that is the case in your example.
Your dealer doesn't sound like he is very forthcoming, however..
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
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Edmunds Moderator
I want to know all my options so I can make a decision that works for me... it doesn't help when you have not nice(I'm substituting for much nastier words here) salespeople who really try to throw you off.
I posted the same message in the make/model forum and someone there told me that I have to realize that there are different incentives that apply to lease or purchase but they don't apply to both.
So there's a $2000 cash incentive on this car (mind you I was quoted far below the MSRP less the incentive). Do you think that makes any difference in the quotes that I've received??
Thanks again!!
Maradag.