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Purchasing at the End of Your Lease



  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    If you're friendly with any dealers they can help out a lot in this case. Especially if you're thinking of buying a new car. If you have a potential buyer, take them with you to the new car dealer and work out where you trade the car and they sell to your buyer for a set price. They make a few easy bucks ($500 would be fair and common), you save on tax and headache/paperwork.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I have done this in the past for as little as $300, but not lately. With inventory and business taxes and liability and warranty issues most dealers will not be interested in helping you our or will charge a LOT more. That is the case with ones around here, anyway. Heck, the doc fee most places locally is $300-500 on any purchase...
  • The lease on my 09 VW CC is up in early March. The residual on the car is $17895. The total payoff including taxes and fees is $20,800 (of which $1200 is future scheduled payments to be made).

    I'm seeing the NADA guide pricing for my car (09 CC Lux package with 30K miles) is currently between $22-24K. Carmax is listing it for around $23500.

    Does it make sense to buy the car now for $20,800 (including taxes), as there is still 4 months or 5000 miles on the warranty, then try to flip it to a private seller to make a profit?

    I know Carmax buys leased cars. When they call VW Credit to get a payoff, I'm assuming that payoff amount will not include sales tax for them. Does this mean their payoff would be the residual plus remaining payments plus any fees? If so, that would give me more equity by avoiding the taxe? Does VW Credit even do this?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,444
    Correct, when a dealer buys the car, they don't pay tax. So Carmax or any other dealer would pay roundabout $19k on the car. If you are buying a vehicle from that same dealer, in some states you pay tax on the new vehicle LESS the trade-in value of what you are giving them. In other words, if the trade-in value is indeed $19k and you buy a $19k car from them, you pay zero tax. Again, that's just some states.

    Now, could you buy it and sell it for a profit? Maybe. But are you willing to take the risk? Selling something so expensive private party is very tough because the buyer either has to arrange their own financing (which often carries a higher rate when buying private party) or pay cash. If I could get it from Carmax for $23,500, then I'd most likely be able to get it from a normal dealer for $22k. So I'd be looking to pay no more than $21k private party. That's a whopping $200 for you after all of your hard work.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    It can depend on which state you live in. For most, sales tax is due when you buy out the car off lease (at any time - now or the end). Some states may not charge this tax (full tax is paid on the lease) and some will rebate the tax to you if you sell the car in xx days - some may not charge sales tax on private party used sales. For most of us, we pay the tax and so would our buyer. This double tax makes it hard or impossible to flip an on lease car for profit. Selling it to or through a dealer means you pay no sales tax. Selling through a dealer is a lot harder than it used to be, so selling to a dealer is perhaps the best option. Carmax or any other licensed dealer can buy your car off of lease now, or any other time, and not pay taxes. There are some lease banks that do not allow this, but most do.

    So at lease end your car would be $17,895 to a dealer (assuming no lease end fees). You need to get a current quote without taxes to compare to see the buyout for a dealer now then decide if you want to hang in and try to sell it later, now, or just turn it in. With some warranty left now and none at lease end, you might be better off to try to sell it now. You will also save the taxes and interest on any remaining payments. Get the buy out, clean up the car and get some quotes to buy it and see where you stand.

    You can also trade it in toward any other car you want, assuming the dealer allows you enough for it to cover the current buy out. Anything over that is discounted on your new car.
  • Thanks very much for the advice and information. You made a lot of good points.

    Sounds like the best thing to do is to sell through a dealer or just let the lease run out and return the car.

    Do you know the the NADA pricing on the internet is a good indication of what kind of pricing a dealer would offer for the car?

    Also, it sounds like it is better to just "sell" the car to a dealer as a leased car instead of purchasing it by paying off the lease and residual.
  • NADA isn't very accurate.

    Post over in "Real World Trade-In Values" and we can give you an idea of actual market value.

    Dealers generally use Black Book or Galves.
  • Brentwood...thanks just posted it.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    You can check here on edmunds and at kbb for an idea of trade in value. Carmax used to pay KBB trade value when they first opened here, but that was a long time ago and they usually do not pay that much these days. They get a lot of cars at auction so they are not inclined to pay more than auction money to buy one from an individual. Ditto the other car dealers. If you have a wildly desirable or scarce car then you can get more than you might expect (I netted $2k selling them my wife's on lease Pilot 2 years back). If you have something they have a lot of or do not think they can move then you might expect less. You can check their nation-wide inventory online to see what they are selling similar cars for. The 2 I sold them were offered at $2.5k to $3.5k over what I was paid.

    They show 4 2009 C lux cars in inventory with 40k or less miles ranging from $23,599 to $23,998 so I would expect around $20k or maybe a little more.

    Carmax is really set up well to do this and can be a quick and painless way to move a car you now longer want. Most other dealers do not seem as interested or as easy to deal with to sell a car. You can also try the new(er) service autotrader has to solicit offers from local dealers for your car, but I would start with Carmax if there is one around.
  • There's no Carmax stores in my market but I know a bunch of Carmax buyers.

    Basically, if it's a car that they can retail and would otherwise buy for inventory, they will pay market value for it (IE about what they'd pay for it at auction) however, if it's a car that they won't retail they will take it in at a number where they can wholesale it at a profit.

    A clean CC without Paintwork and a clean carfax with good miles is probably a retail car for them.
  • Hi, my lease for 2010 rx350 nav / backup camera is ending in July 2012. The purchase option is at about 28k. It should be about 36k at the lease end. I checked KBB for trade in and it comes out to be 35k for "very good". I realize there's time gap between now and the lease end and the price might depreciate, but I just wanted to give a shot in asking if buying the car might be more beneficial financially.
    Also, I leased it in TX so I did pay the sales tax upfront. If I buy the car, do I have to pay tax again?
  • I would like to know what kind of fees I will be faced with for 2012 cmry lease, I have a 2008 leased camry 4 door. How do I find out the real selling price and fees? thanks
  • My 08 R32 has 2 more payments left so I called VW Credit for a purchase quote if I want to buy the car. As a customer, my purchase price would be my contractual residual value. If your a dealer, they get to purchase the car at FMV.

    The price that VW Credit gave the dealer was about $10K more then this highest wholesale price. The wholesale price was also close to KBB trade in value. It is also about 7K more then my customer buyout price. The car has 76,000 miles on it.

    Any idea why VW Credit whould have such a crazy dealer price? This just kills any trade-in deal since no dealer will pay $10K above wholesale or FMV. Makes no logical sense....

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    The lease bank (VW credit) owns the car and can do whatever they want with it. By contract, they have to sell you the car for the residual, pre-negotiated price - there is nothing that says they have to honor that price for anyone else - like a car dealer.

    Did you have a VW dealer call or another brand / independent ? VW might allow a VW dealer to buy it at that price but may block others.

    In most states sales tax is due when you by your car off of lease, even if this is the case where you live buying + tax may net you a profit when you trade / sell the car. Most states have a tax break for trading in an OWNED car (lease cars do not apply) so you could recoup your tax money plus profit if you BUY a replacement.

    Say your buy out is $10,000 and you live here in high tax land (7%), it would cost you $10,700 to buy the car. Then you trade it in on a new (purchased) replacement and get get say $17,000 for it. You would then save $1,190 in sales tax on the new ride. So your net profit is $7,490 for flipping the car (assuming no property or tag fees).

    They took a chance on future value and if were worth less than residual and you turned it in they would be out that money. The fact that it is worth more means a windfall or profit for them, if you are dumb enough to just return the car and leave thousands on the table...
  • Thanks for the information. Apparently that price is for all dealers. My buyout is $18K, and if I returned to a dealer I would get dinged for close to $7K with miles penalty. I have 76,000 miles and market value for trade in is about 16K. You would be nuts to pay what VW is asking in dealer price, since the market is saying otherwise. Only smart thing is to purchase the car.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,444
    edited January 2012
    Trade-in would be even less than that, I'm afraid. With those miles, that might do $15,500 or so at dealer auction. Dealers would most likely hit it at $14k or so ... unless they are killing you on the car you are buying, that is. You might get more at a place like carmax, if you have access to one. Just don't buy a car from them because they are grossly overpriced!

    If you don't want the car, your best bet, of course, is to try to sell it yourself. You could probably get the $18k you owe for it.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Ouch! That is what happens when you go over miles on a lease.

    Does $18k include taxes or not? Often they quote buyout with tax to you, your base amount is the residual from the lease contract.

    qbrozen's suggestion to sell it yourself will not work in most states - title can only pass to you (for your buyout price) or to a dealer (for a higher price you said). It also has to be through a dealer and it is hard to find one to do a buy and bye these days. If you get a tax credit for reselling then you can buy and sell it private.

    Otherwise you may have to just pay the over mile fees or roll the negative equity into the next deal.

    The ideal thing is to not lease if you are a high mile driver or to build those into the lease. Failing that, then save the extra mile fees every month so you will have the money socked away at lease end.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,444
    I meant to buy it out and THEN sell it.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Buyout price plus sales tax would likely to be more than retail value. It would be nice if you could sell private off lease, but in most places you have to pay tax. Of course, losing a little reselling it is not bad compared to paying $7k in over mile charges...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,444
    Of course, losing a little reselling it is not bad compared to paying $7k in over mile charges...

    Exactly. It is the path of lowest cost.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • Hello everyone ,please help! I am half way done with my lease and I'm already at my max mileage. At the end of my lease should I purchase my car to avoid all the mileage overage charges?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    Depends. If the difference between the buy-out and market value is less than the mileage charge....then buy it out. Pretty hard to predict that at this point.

    I would recommend you make payments to your savings account equal to your monthly mileage x the overage rate. Then it won't be a scramble on the tail end.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I agree with sebring, start saving now to pay the over mile charges at the end. Buy it out only if you want it and it makes sense, otherwise pay the charges.

    You can also try to sell it now to a dealer (like Carmax) if it is worth close to buyout value on the lease. It might cost you to get out of it but that may be cheaper than keeping on driving it and paying the penalty. High mile drivers should not do leases, in general :D
  • Sorry if i repeat anything anyone was talking about but I joined this discussion late.

    So in my scenario I am two months before the end of my lease, my 2008 GMC Acadia is worth about a $1000 more than the ballon payment (per Kelly Blue Book) but I am over mileage to the tune of $5000, if I trade my car towards the purchase of another car other than GMC and they give me what is owed on the car then would I still have to pay that mileage?

    I am just trying to figure out what ways other than purchasing the vehicle to get away from paying the mileage?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    As long as you don't return the vehicle at the end of the lease, you won't have to pay the mileage fee. You can trade it anywhere you want (essentially the dealer is buying out your lease) or you can buy it out yourself. I have seen some GM leases (assuming it's GMAC/Ally) that have more favorable buy-out terms if it's being bought-out by a GM dealer.
  • Hi, My lease is up on my Honda and I want to buy it out. Mileage is well below what the lease allowed, very good shape, only about 20K miles on it. I've heard that Honda does not negotiate the residual value currently listed. Is this true, and can anybody offer some insights in negotiating my terms and payments?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Coming in late here...

    The residual is set in stone as it should be.

    You can probably finance it through a local bank. If you have the dealer do this for you, you will be charged a fee. Just do this yourself!
  • I just recently had a Chrysler dealer do a payoff on my Rav 4 lease that had low miles on and quite a bit of equity (I know this is rare), I contacted Toyota and they said the dealer would have me sign buyout paperwork which they did but I'm concerned about the check Chrysler is cutting, it was for the exact amount of the car buyout but without tax, when I questioned this because I knew that I would have to pay tax if I bought it from Toyota they said that dealers are exempt from having to pay the tax. I can't get in touch with Toyota until after the holiday weekend but now I'm really questioning this. Does anyone know if a dealer has to pay tax on a lease buyout just like I would if I would have bought it? NY resident.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    Since the dealer is buying it out, they would not pay sales tax.
  • Thank you!
  • czar4czar4 Posts: 33
    I understand in some states there is dealer pass-through when you want to sell a car privately but recoup sales tax paid against the purchase of a new car. Is this true in CT? I am trying to get out of a lease, and I can sell my leased car (leased through Toyota) for about $3k more than the dealer is offering; however, I would have to pay$1700 in sales tax based on the current balance owed. It seems crazy to me (although I understadn the mechanics behind it) to pay $1700 in tax for a car that will be immediately passed to a new owner.

    If I can sell it privately and NOT pay tax, I would be close to what I owe, so the thought of eating $1700 is tough to swallow - although I understand I would have swalloed that had I purchased the car originally. Thanks for any help!
  • mrsuribemrsuribe Posts: 4
    Our lease is up in July & our residual for our 2010 exl is 15,525. We've had some late payments with Honda so they've told us they will not be able to provide a loan for the lease buyout.

    The KBB value is well over the residual & it feels like they'd rather get the car back & resale & make the profit. Any idea who to apply for a loan with for this situation? Our score is approx 630. We live in CA. Let me know if you have additional questions.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 137,855
    Try your local bank or credit union..

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 5,034
    In the future, don't have any late payments...or maybe y'all are leasing more vehicle than can be afforded. Many folks seem to do that and buy/lease something way too expensive. Better to have a less expensive model that is affordable since you are dinging your credit scores which is just plain dumb! We can afford any vehicle we want but we're smart enough to only purchase affordable one's that we can pay for all at once. We only finance if the rate is 0% or very very low. We also keep them for a long time, our Mazda is over 118k, an '05 and my '06 Civic is at the 40k point so it'll be here for a few more years, until at least 2016. Got my credit score last week and it's at 800.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • I see someone mentioned "dealer pass through" above - can someone expound on this?
    I am in VA and have a leased 2011 Camry LE coming up in July. I have a friend who wants to buy the car - ideally he would just buy the car from us through Toyota at the residual + taxes (~14.5k i believe) but I'm not sure what the best process is to accomplish this.
    In addition - do I have to wait until the lease is over or could I just finish out my last payment and do it before then?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,444
    edited June 2013
    Unfortunately, YOU would have to buy the car from Toyota and then your friend buys it from you, ensuring that you both pay taxes and transfer costs both times.

    Doing it through a dealer avoids the double taxes and double fees. However, dealers won't necessarily do this, at least not with some fee involved, and rightly so because it puts them on the hook for the car. They are responsible if something goes wrong and, of course, it costs them time and money to do the paperwork. They are obviously much more willing to if you are buying a car from them and your request is part of the necessary details to get the deal done.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    A credit score of 800 really does not get a person any more than a credit score of 720 or so. Either will usually get the top tier financing rates.

    Many of us prefer not to spend the limited time we have driving an eight year old Mazda with 100K miles or a seven year old Civic when we can afford more. For us, getting there with some style while enjoying the drive is important. We only live once so why settle for less?

    Different strokes for different folks.

    Anyone can encounter financial difficulties which ding the credit score. Those difficulties do not mean a person is dumb.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    As qbrozen mentioned, there may be some dealers not interested in this. I have a couple friends in the biz that did it for me, but they have also done it for other people for a small fee ($400 give or take). A smaller used dealership would likely be more interested in making a few bucks for pushing some paperwork.

    I had a Toyota once and the lease required I complete the buy-out at a Toyota dealer. I think they charged me $500 to process the paperwork.....but that's a little bit different since it was my lease and I was the one buying it out.
  • Thanks for the insight.
    However what do you mean by some dealers not necessarily wanting to do this - why wouldn't it be in their best interest to turn around and sell the car when I turn it in?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,444
    edited June 2013
    well, sure, if you are willing to pay a normal markup. I was referring to the "in and out," or "dealer pass through" as you called it, where the parties expect a dealer to do the paperwork for free or nearly free.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • Right, gotcha. Sebring mentioned ~$500 to do the paperwork for the passthrough - is that a reasonable fee in your opinion?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,444
    I honestly couldn't tell you what a dealer would feel is adequate. Frankly, if I owned a dealership and I was going to get NOTHING out of a deal other than $500 (meaning the other party isn't buying a replacement vehicle from me), I wouldn't do it. Its just not worth the liability.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • michaelm6michaelm6 Posts: 1
    I dont understand the Sandman's motive for his post other than to brag about his 800 credit score. People buy what they can afford at the time, then People lose jobs, finances can change sometimes without a persons control.this happened to my parents , when my father got sick years ago. the original poster was asking a question about their options,not to be reprimanded. what it necessary to scold them for having late payment? I think not, if you don't have something productive to say, then why join the conversation? It cost nothing to be kind
  • ckrayckray Posts: 1
    I think we'd like to buy out our 2010 Forester. It's in good shape, rear bumper was replaced after I got gently rear-ended, but other than that, it's good. But I don't even know where to start this process. I called the dealer we leased it from, and they want me to come in and have an inspection; they warned me that they would like to buy the car and talk us into another used car (I guess the Subarus have good resale value), but I'm always wary of what's good for the dealer. Do I even need to go to the dealer? Can I just call the leasing company and arrange a loan from our credit union? TIA!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    This should be outlined in your lease contract. I've never seen an inspection required for a buy-out...sounds like dealer nonsense to me. Call whomever you leased it from. A used vehicle you have experience with is always better than risking someone else's headache.
  • We have 2 leased 2011 Chevrolet Equinox's that will be up next year, one in May and one in June. One vehicle has 13000 miles on it and the other has 10000. The vehicles are in immaculate condition.

    When we turn these in next year what fees might we encounter? We're thinking of possibly purchasing one of them and turning in the other. We have never had a late payment on either vehicle and they were financed through Ally Financial. Thank you.
  • kanchiskanchis Posts: 33
    Need some advice on what I should do at the lease end for my 2011 335d BMW. My residual is $32,396 and I'm right at the 44.5k Miles (allowed 45k miles). After talking with my dealer they said they can purchase my car from BMWFS and turn it around as a CPO and sell it for 34650 and give 0.9% for 48 months which is a good term at the current finance rates. There is not going to be a lease disposition fee ($350 or 450) but there is going to be a dealer fee of 599 that is non negotiable+$45 title tag fee. So with tax and everything out the door its going to cost me 37,634 with CPO (6Yr 100,000 Mile) warranty. Does this sound good?

    The tax rate here in GA is 6.5% of what a valuation that DMV suggests (which happens to be 50 bucks below the residual so no harm done). I got 2 days left to decide so any info is much appreciated. Thanks!
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    edited August 2013
    I ran the number (about 18 times because I had my two evening Valium BEFORE my two (or five) evening beers...and MATH IS HARD right now for me....

    Seriously, (there was no beer, just two Valium and9% some round pill I found on the bathroom floor)...

    According to, Bank of America has a 48-month Used Car Loan available at only 2.09% interest. If that is correct and you qualify for that rate, buying the CPO at 0.9% will cost about $1750 more when all is said and done. That includes an assumed $350 Lease Disposition Fee if you buy it at the Residual Value...if that's not the case, then it could be more like $2100 more overall.

    I am leery of BMWs out-of-warranty, so even though is normally not a move I would recommend on most regular makes, this could be worth it. But the question that we don't really have much inforamation to answer is how reliable and durable will that BMW TurboDiesell be over the next 3yrs and 55k miles? Most diesels would just be getting broken in at 100k...but BMWs can be, how do I put this, delicate...fragile best friend's 2005 330i started leaking oil and the transmission started acting up within 4 weeks of the warranty expiring....

    I'm curious- what color is your 335d and what options and/or Packages does it have?

    The reason i ask is because I did some searching for CPO 2011 335d models located in the Southeast and the CPO price they're quoting you seems a bit high.

    The first one has me ready to drive up to Winston-Salem NC tomorrow and buy it myself! (BTW, I'm located on northern edge of metro Atlanta area)

    This one would have stickered for $54,710 when new.
    2011 BMW 335d, CPO, 48,200mi- $32,449
    Space Gray Met w/ Black Dakota Leather
    Heated Steering Wheel
    Harmon Kardon Surround Sound Audio
    SIRIUS sat radio w/ 1yr subscrip
    @ Flow BMW in Winston Salem NC

    2011 BMW 335d, CPO, 19,380mi - $33,488
    Alpine White w/ Beige Dakota Leather
    SIRIUS Sat radio w/ 1-year subscrip
    iPod & USB Adapter
    @ BMW of South Atlanta

    2011 BMW 335d, CPO, 36,979mi - $32,307
    Black Sapphire Metallic w/ Gray Dakota Leather
    Heated Steering Wheel
    SIRIUS sat radio w/ 1yr subscrip
    iPod & USB Adapter
    @ Bluegrass BMW in Paducah KY

    This one causes me ‘visual nausea’ (I just coined that meaningless phrase)!
    It’s a 2011 BMW 335d but the color combination is, um, eww….
    I can’t fathom going to the BMW dealer and thinking, I really want to pay $50k for THAT one….this had to be a customer-order from the factory, right? I pray this poor soul has been introduced to a wonderful thing called a Color Wheel and it shows the range of colors that will ‘go’ with others…
    Tasman Green Metallic with Chesnut Brown Leather (and the Chestnut Brown has an orange-like glow… - b5cd85ca64ca3.htm
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • kanchiskanchis Posts: 33
    edited August 2013
    Thank you for the help! I actually pulled the trigger and bought it with the CPO warranty. My two options were;
    1. Buy the car at residual $32396, with BOA financing for 48months @ 2.04%.

    2. Give the car up to my dealer and pay no lease disposition fee of $350. The dealer certifies the car and makes it a CPO with 6Yr 100,000 Mile warranty and sell it back to me for $34650 AND give me 0.9% financing.

    So the net difference between the two scenarios at the end of the loan term was $1721, which was a reasonable price to pay for CPO I thought.

    So....a little bit info on my car.
    The MSRP on this was $57850
    It has Lemans blue exterior and Sandle brown interior leather.
    M Sport, Premium Pkg, Cold Weather Pkg, Convenience Pkg, HK upgraded sterior, Navigation, Ipod integration, Smart phone integration, ....The only option I didnt get was SAT radio, because I personally hate sat. This car was ordered by me so I pretty much over loaded it with options and picked it off at SC (good memories!!:::))))

    I also did some research to find any M Sports but there arnt any. The closest sport package CPO was 35-37k and it was not even close to my M sport (looks wise). Since I had owned this car from 0 miles on it I know the history and the way I've maintained it so there's a premium I was willing to pay for that I guess. Also the emotional attachment cost a few bucks too ;) I'm pretty anal when it comes to maintaining my car. I dont eat, drink, smoke inside the car and my wife hates me for that :) I know every small scratch on it inside and out and I pretty much lick the car clean every week my self. So ya I doubt that i'd be able to find a car that was babied like mine, or will never know at least.

    Here's a link for some pictures of the car

    I think I made the correct choice. Thanks for letting me vent.

    PS: Here's a M sport thats on sale on - listingId=123096552&paId=531153872&listingRecNum=1&criteria=fuelTypeId%3d31766%2- - 6sf1Dir%3dDESC%26mkId%3d20005%26stkTyp%3dU%26mdId%3d20445%26rd%3d100000%26crSrtF- - lds%3dstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-yrId-fuelTypeId%26zc%3d30024%26rn%3d0%26PMmt%- - 3d1-1-0%26stkTypId%3d28881%26sf2Dir%3dASC%26sf1Nm%3dprice%26yrId%3d34923%26sf2Nm- - %3dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3dfalse%26rpp%3d50%26feedSegId%3d28705&tracktype=use- - dcc&pageNumber=&numResultsPerPage=&largeNumResultsPerPage=0&sortorder=descending- - &sortfield=PRICE&certifiedOnly=false&&aff=national

    The difference is that its not a CPO, doesnt have conveniance pkg, and white color (which is 500 bucks less than a premium paint).

    Here's another one, thats more close to my car priced at 34880 with No CPO. gId=122059286&listingRecNum=23&criteria=fuelTypeId%3D31766%26sf1Dir%3DASC%26mkId- %3D20005%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D20445%26kwm%3DANY%26rd%3D100000%26crSrtFlds%3Dstk- TypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-yrId-fuelTypeId%26zc%3D30024%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%2- 6stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D34923%26requestorTrack- ingInfo%3DRTB_SEARCH%26kw%3Dm+sport%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%2- 6rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=national&listType=1
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    Congrats! I had only seen LeMans Blue in photos until just a few months ago. The BMW dealership near my office had a new 135is in Lemans Blue and it looked amazing! I love it!

    Choosing an exterior color is usually the most difficult part of the buying process for me. I actually love the color blue, but rarely does an automaker offer a shade of blue that looks so amazing! Acura offers a color on the TSX called Vortex Blue Pearl that was my favorite blue until I saw LeMans Blue....Vortex Blue can't hold a candle to it!

    I also think the Saddle Brown interior is beautiful. It looks great with the LeMans Blue. If I had ordered it, I would've played it safe with Black interior. But the Saddle Brown really stands out and it's a stunning color combo. I'm far too conservative when it comes to colors, and I wish I was a little more adventurous. I actually have a rare type of color blindness and it sucks because I play it safe when it comes to choosing car color combinations, clothes (khakis go with everything, right?) and even paint color for my walls. I'm almost 39 and I still run color choices by my mom to make sure they actually appear the way I'm seeing them or if they clash and look horrible. On the upside, soldiers with the same type of color blindness that I have were part of a special group in the South Pacific during WW2. Apparently, people with this condition were able to detect the camo worn by the Japanese, even if they were hiden in thick island rain forests....

    The two white ones you posted the links for also look amazing! I love white cars if they are a pure, clean white and BMW's Alpine White is a perfect example of one. I don't get the appeal of Pearl White, but it's far more common than regular white on new cars!

    A lot of people dislike Jet Black and Alpine White models since they are the only two 'base' colors available at no charge instead of paying $550 for one of the Metallics. Whenever I used to see a White or Red previous-genereation 325i (esp. with the standard wheels) it makes me think "wannabe". I have a friendd who recently sold a 2008 Lexus IS250 without a single option. It didn't even have heated seats.

    But the M Sport Package in Alpine White- WOW!

    So back on the topic of your purcahse....

    I definitely think you made the best decision because you clearly love this car and I suspect you'll hang onto it for quite a while. So the CPO additional warranty coverage is well worth the peace of mind it affords you!

    Had I known that you spec'd this car down to the last detail and tookd delivery at the factory, I wouldn't have even mentioned any of the slightly lower priced examples of the 335D. Given the color combo and the number of options and options packages on your car, it might even ben one of a king....that would be very cool!

    What did you think of the delivery experience at the SC facility? There was a lot of debate about whether Americans would even accept the 3-series being built at as US factory. Then they were concerned about whether to offer the factory delivery option but I'm glad they did because everyone I know who has experienced it had a great experience!

    Back in 1998, my ex-wife and I used the Volvo Overseas Delivery program whe she ordered a new Volvo S70 T5 to replace her aging 1993 Volvo 850. We had an amazing day touring the Volvo facilities and got to spend an hour wth the guys in the safety center!

    I learned two VERY important lessons on or as a result of that trip-

    1- Don't try to drive in countries with road signs in a language you don't understand.

    2- The Swedes are some of the kindest and most friendly folks I've ever met. Everything in Gothenberg was in so clean and neat. We were tryign to drive to Oslo, Norway but ended up about 120 miles off course and too sleepy to drive. We had no cell receptioin (we were in the middle of nowhere, with one house and chimney smoke on one side and a cliff looking down over a fjord on the other. We went to the housee with the smoke and the familly insisted that we stay the night with them! It was one of the most touching acts of kindness and I still keep in touch with the couple to this day!!!

    Buddy, I am very happy for you! You just need to plan on keeping your 335d forever because it will be just as amazing in 20 years as it is now! =)

    Peace out.
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
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