My local dealer has and Everglade Limited up on one of those stands. Looks very nice. Depends on sun etc but looks grey and with a green tint at some angles
I have looked at maybe 25 Rav4s. A while back most had Bridgestone Dueler xt 687s or some number close to that. Lately most seem to have Yokohama Geolander G91s. They come in both 17" and then 18" on sport. I though the G91s were quieter and squealed less on hard turns. You do not seem to get a choice...luck of the draw it seems G91s cost about $60 more that the other tire at Tire Rack.
I decided to punt and just let them install it at the dealer. The overhead lights aren't keyed either and that ACC power is the biggest problem (right next to running wires cleanly whist avoiding issues with the SRS). I'm not comfortable with the thought of playing around with that part of the system at all.
Yes that's good as long as the dealer didn't simply "play games" and shuffle numbers around with a trade-in and dealer add-ons, accessories, extended warranty and marked-up financing to make it look like the car was discounted when they really only moved the same profits to other parts of the deal.
And, for what its worth, the "Lieu Tax" I inquired about above is simply the registration for the vehicle for the year in AZ. (Although I did like the person's humor above who noted it was a tax for using their bathroom!)
Thanks Silverphx - I live in Phoenix and it looks like a you got a pretty reasonable deal, especially for the first batch of V-6's. Were they OK to deal with, or did you go through the typical back and forth sales manager-saleman/good cop/bad cop ordeal?
They were great to deal with. However, I always go through the internet fleet department at any dealer I go to. You can either contact them through "Edmunds.com" (which is a simple process) or you can contact them directly by calling them and asking for the internet fleet department. When I have gone through the internet fleet departments, I have NEVER had to deal with that typical manager-salesman back-and-forth garbage. The only "back-and-forth" you may encounter with internet fleet departments is when you have two separate internet fleet departments from two different dealers vying for your business---you can go back and forth between the dealers via simple e-mails or simple phone calls and explain that "the other dealer just came down another $400, can you beat that"---back and forth. But that's easy and good because they are simply going to bid each other down until you reach the lowest possible prices from each dealer. HOWEVER, in my opinion, you won't get to do that right now on the RAVs simply because, at least right now, there is very little stock of these cars around town--as a result, they won't be able to bid each other down and you can expect to pay a pretty penny for these for right now. If your not in a rush, my advice would be to wait a few months. For what it is worth, Big Two Toyota in Mesa called me just tonight and said they have "some V6's that just arrived on their lot." You can contact their internet fleet department as well. (But I think they are asking MSRP). Good luck.
I know they do base models with 3rd row seat because a Las Vegas dealer (Fletcher Jones Toyota) called me about 1 1/2 weeks ago regarding a V6 Everglade base he had on his lot with a 3rd row seat. In fact, he faxed me the "vehicle inquiry report" which showed it.
I build my new RAV4 on both sites and I get different options and prices. ex. Edmunds shows a DVD option but Toyota does not. Toyota as three bundles while Edmunds breaks it down.
One dealer is $500 over invoice and another is $1600 under MSRP. Toyota only shows MSRP but when I use edmunds and pick the same options the Edmunds MSRP is less than Toyotas???
OK--the dealer is offering $500 over invoice for a V6 but is adding a TDA charge of $425. He says that it's a regional charge that they tack onto each vehicle. Is this a standard charge for Toyota?
2006 RAV4 4X4 4Cyl Limited owner for about a month now. My wife drives it and is really happy with it. However, I have some concerns... 1. The specs say that the gas tank has a capacity of 15.9 gallons. But both times she filled up so far, it took only 12.8 gal. She filled the tank just when the indicator is touching the "E". I don't understand why there is such a big difference. 2. On the first two tanks, we got only about 17 mpg. This is with mostly city driving including in the snow, but still I was expecting something like 23mpg. Only 220 miles on a full tank? I was expecting something much better. What's going on? Thanks Matt
Along with other reasons, city driving in cold weather is not a good mix for returning good gas mileage with any gas powered vehicle. You'll have to wait for warmer weather and a little more break-in time before improving on the gas mileage. Another tip, follow the recommended break-in procedures. Good luck.
All cars/trucks/suv's are tested in the same manner to get the MPG. I know some find this to be impossible and I wouldn't have believe it if someone tole me: I drive a 2005 Pontiac Montana SV6 and the estimates for it are 18 city, 25 highway. I drove from Tulsa to Houston during Xmas, 530 miles, on a single tank and got 29.9 mile/gallon according to the digital readout. When I filled up (I always top it off to get an accurate read) I actually got 28.5 mpg. I drove 70-75mph about 90% of the 8 hour trip. Stopped only twice to go to the bathroom. BUT, I accelerated slowly, tried not to use my brakes, etc. I also filled my tires to 38lbs before leaving Tulsa. I was actually playing a game where I was trying to get the best possible mpg and watching the digital MPG readout go up and down accordingly.
So now I am sure that they don't use the best possible conditions and speed to get the estimated mpg. But most young people (I am 49) accelerate and use their brakes way too often and this lowers your mileage more than you realize.
It feels rather nice to be on the leading edge of something really hot like this! Hopefully it doesn't end up being a thief magnet though... :surprise: - Marty, 8 days from delivery!
DON'T try this, but driving it til it stops and won't start again without more go-go juice will certainly give the most accurate info. (I've always understood you could end up sucking in nasty crud from the bottom of the tank when almost empty, and so that's generally a very bad idea.)
It's quite possible that "E" = less than 3 gallons left in the tank on your RAV4 (maybe in general). I'm not sure if some small volume is typically lost due to the way the emission control system works but that could also be a minor factor (i.e., you don't want to "top off the tank" after the first time the pump automatically stops). Bottom line: you probably have more reserve capacity than the gauge implies.
I'll second that (conditionally, since I haven't yet taken delivery from Fitzmall). So far they've been very helpful and I will have almost exactly the RAV4 I originally wanted (paint color is slightly different but equally acceptable) and could not get one *anywhere* else like this without special ordering and waiting many months more.
"DON'T try this, but driving it til it stops" Great idea. Sounds like it could be a good Seinfeld episode. We could even get Kramer to drive the vehicle. Naw... sounds too much like a show about nothing. Sorry couldn't resist.
What is the official break-in procedure for the V6 according to the Owner's Manual? My fiancee is picking hers up from Fitzmall Saturday ($100 under invoice). I'm thinking that the engines are fully run in at the factory, and the only thing to be careful with is the brakes. But can anyone confirm this?
I don't own one but from what I have seen in comments here there is a very specific proceedure. You should call a Toyota dealer or make sure he reads the manual before he starts off.
Usually on most cars there is a speed/rpm limit for the 1st 500 miles or so and directions to vary the speed, not driving at any one speed for very long.
I've not read the new RAV's manual, but if it's like the 9 previous Toyotas I've purchased, here are a few tips that Toyota recommends (that can add to the future economy and long life of the vehicle). Drive gently and avoid high speeds
For the first 1000 miles, -Do not drive over 55 mph. -Run the engine at moderate speed between 2000 and 4000 rpms. -Avoid full-throttle starts. -Try to avoid hard stops during the first 200 miles. -Do not drive slowly with the manual transmission in high gear. -Do not drive for a long time at any single speed either fast or slow. -Do not tow a trailer during the first 500 miles.
Some believe that it isn't necessary to adhere to these recommended tips. I consider it to be short term pain for long term gain (it's actually a pain in the you-know-where). Heck, there not giving these things away. If there wasn't something to the tips, Toyota wouldn't suggest them. However, it is a personal decision (I've always followed them). Hope this information helps.
We've been looking for a couple of months for a red ltd. Can't find one. Visiting the in-laws 800 miles from home and find a red sport with all the stuff we need/want. Deal may not be quite as good as what i thought i'd get locally, but it's here where I can see it, drive it, touch it, etc.
What about Sport vs Limited? No dual a/c, no leather wrapped steering wheel. Are bigger tires better? What about the "sport tuned suspension"? (I didn't really notice in the excitement of the moment.) The only other thing I can find are the power seats. MSRP's are virtually identical. What am I missing, or are there any other differences to check out?
Toyota's always have about a 3 gal reserve.. On my Camry's I could drive nearly 100 mi with the warning light on.. but running out of gas is a risk.
Do a search on the hybrid forums about fuel economy and the reasons why the driving public doesn't get the EPA numbers. It's quite an eye opener if you've never paid any attention to it.
The Prius and the rest of the hybrids have generated a wealth discussion and tremendously increased the base of knowledge of all consumers. If you want I can point you to some posts in other forums. It applies to all vehicles.
I sell them. There is no specific procedure except .. dont tow anything for a short time dont do jackrabbit starts try not to do panic stops - but be safe
That's it on all Toyota's for the first 1000 mi. Drive normally, dont baby it, dont push it too hard.
Well biggest differerence on Sport are things you mentioned, plus interior is all dark grey. Ext color choices are less and no power seats and leather.
I have driven both the Sport and the Limited 4 and v6. Both are nice. The Sport handling is a little better but the ride is a little rougher. I think the bigger tires are 75% style and 25% performance. Some people here disagree. Before you buy a Sport you should drive it as you may not like the stiffer ride which is a little noiser on rough pavement. The handling is super but the Limited handling is fairly good also. The V6 is very powerful.
I am buying a Sport but that may not be the right choice for you. Drive both models with both engines. Also, don't pay close to MSRP unless your deperate. You can get these things for $500-700 over invoice if your serious and patient. See www.fizmall.com for reasonable prices. Also, you dealer should be able to find or get you a red limited if your can wait a bit.
I am a happy owner of a 2001 RAV4 (great mileage - 26mpg winter - 28mpg summer, comfort, all wheel drive, dependability, style and I fit).
The new 2006 RAV4 interior is a major disappointment because the driver space seems smaller. The side walls curve more toward the interior and the plastic molding above the windows is larger. The space directly above my head ( six foot 2 inch body) is fine but it seems as if the side window frame is in the side of my head so that I can not lean when turning corners or for any other reason. Many cars are like this with the older Ford Taurus being the extreme example.
I can not sit in the back seat of the new RAV because my head hits the ceiling.
The front seat legroom is unchanged or slightly smaller.
I was looking forward to owning another RAV but "if the RAV don't fit I must git" (something else).
"DON'T try this, but driving it til it stops and won't start again without more go-go juice will certainly give the most accurate info. (I've always understood you could end up sucking in nasty crud from the bottom of the tank when almost empty, and so that's generally a very bad idea.)"
Well, if you believe Click and Clack on Cartalk there is no chance of sucking up any residue from the bottom of the gas tanks in the vehicles of today because of the completely closed fuel systems (filter inside the tank). I guess, you could have someone vandalize your car and pour something nasty down the filler opening that could overcome the fuel filter. No one would vouch for any submerged fuel system like those on the vehicles coming from New Orleans and the Gulf Coast.
I've heard that too Gogiboy, but I've also heard that the gas cools the fuel pump and running the tank low consistently shortens the life of the pump.
But I often wait until my gauge is well below 1/4th (or even let the low fuel light come on) before filling up and I haven't had a fuel pump go out on me ... yet. :shades:
On a RAV that has no body molding. I mean not even any color coded platoc molding. The RAV in showroom was already chipped on the side? Am I missing something here? Is there a molding that can be added?
I'm sure that some quality molding is or will be available (I've seen some on the new model RAV in the local showrooms). However, many new vehicles don't have them. Some vehicles that do have them are situated where they are totally useless. With the different size vehicles available today it's virtually impossible to protect against parking lot dings (unfortunately). It was easy (years ago) when most vehicles on the road were cars of the same size (not so today). I had a Matrix for over 2 years (no moldings). It didn't have one parking lot ding on it. I'm probably one of the few that parks far enough away to avoid them (the wife doesn't like it too much). Hey, it's a way to get a little exercise (even in freezing cold temperatures). I find it amusing to see individuals fight for a close parking spot as I walk past them (complete waste of time and energy). The bottom line is there is no guarantee.
I must strongly disagree re: parking lot dings. I always park right next to the store entrance and have never had so much as a fingerprint on my car. Of course, someone would probably say that this is because I have 4 big guys carrying shotguns who stand next to my car while I'm in the store but that's just jealous rantings coming from some envious person who didn't get the parking spot. But to be fair I must admit that the presence of the pit bulls probably has had some (and I stress a very small "some") effect BUT only on old people and the handicapped who want to complain about having to walk a few extra feet to the store. Well there's just no pleasing some people.
Not to be too cheeky but... the people who wrote those tips have apparently never driven around Chicagoland! True, 55 is the speed limit on all the local freeways but I dare people to try driving 55 or even 65 during non-peak hours around here. You'll get passed by virutally everyone at 10-20 and even 30+ over that. (And those brakes will get a good workout too... when all the traffic stops suddenly for the lone cop writing a speeding ticket for someone going the other way!) :shades:
As noted elsewhere in this thread, as long as you don't dog the engine and vary the speed and/or RPMs you should be ok. We'll see... my first 800 miles will include a fair amount of hilly terrain so I'm hopeful that'll help vary the load without overdoing it. I've even read that you should occasionally give it a little more oomph! to seat things properly. The same source suggested being *too* gentle during break-in can actually hinder the process long-term. Spare the rod and spoil the camshaft?
Yes, but they're mainly thru Canadian dealers . After market moldings are available HERE also. '06 Rav4's aren't listed but they are available. They're wider than the OEM moldings and more expensive.
Comments
Regardless, thank you for all the info!
You have to baby the vehicle/ feather the throttle and accelerate very easily to achieve the epa highway estimates.
And, for what its worth, the "Lieu Tax" I inquired about above is simply the registration for the vehicle for the year in AZ. (Although I did like the person's humor above who noted it was a tax for using their bathroom!)
HOWEVER, in my opinion, you won't get to do that right now on the RAVs simply because, at least right now, there is very little stock of these cars around town--as a result, they won't be able to bid each other down and you can expect to pay a pretty penny for these for right now. If your not in a rush, my advice would be to wait a few months. For what it is worth, Big Two Toyota in Mesa called me just tonight and said they have "some V6's that just arrived on their lot." You can contact their internet fleet department as well. (But I think they are asking MSRP). Good luck.
2) A base model with a 3rd seat.
We are trying to determine if we should wait a few more months or buy now.
One dealer is $500 over invoice and another is $1600 under MSRP. Toyota only shows MSRP but when I use edmunds and pick the same options the Edmunds MSRP is less than Toyotas???
1. The specs say that the gas tank has a capacity of 15.9 gallons. But both times she filled up so far, it took only 12.8 gal. She filled the tank just when the indicator is touching the "E". I don't understand why there is such a big difference.
2. On the first two tanks, we got only about 17 mpg. This is with mostly city driving including in the snow, but still I was expecting something like 23mpg. Only 220 miles on a full tank? I was expecting something much better. What's going on?
Thanks
Matt
Dealer pricing differs from Edmunds.com
Steve, Host
I drive a 2005 Pontiac Montana SV6 and the estimates for it are 18 city, 25 highway. I drove from Tulsa to Houston during Xmas, 530 miles, on a single tank and got 29.9 mile/gallon according to the digital readout. When I filled up (I always top it off to get an accurate read) I actually got 28.5 mpg. I drove 70-75mph about 90% of the 8 hour trip. Stopped only twice to go to the bathroom. BUT, I accelerated slowly, tried not to use my brakes, etc. I also filled my tires to 38lbs before leaving Tulsa.
I was actually playing a game where I was trying to get the best possible mpg and watching the digital MPG readout go up and down accordingly.
So now I am sure that they don't use the best possible conditions and speed to get the estimated mpg.
But most young people (I am 49) accelerate and use their brakes way too often and this lowers your mileage more than you realize.
- Marty, 8 days from delivery!
It's quite possible that "E" = less than 3 gallons left in the tank on your RAV4 (maybe in general). I'm not sure if some small volume is typically lost due to the way the emission control system works but that could also be a minor factor (i.e., you don't want to "top off the tank" after the first time the pump automatically stops). Bottom line: you probably have more reserve capacity than the gauge implies.
Happy driving!
Usually on most cars there is a speed/rpm limit for the 1st
500 miles or so and directions to vary the speed, not driving at any one speed for very long.
For the first 1000 miles,
-Do not drive over 55 mph.
-Run the engine at moderate speed between 2000 and 4000 rpms.
-Avoid full-throttle starts.
-Try to avoid hard stops during the first 200 miles.
-Do not drive slowly with the manual transmission in high gear.
-Do not drive for a long time at any single speed either fast or slow.
-Do not tow a trailer during the first 500 miles.
Some believe that it isn't necessary to adhere to these recommended tips. I consider it to be short term pain for long term gain (it's actually a pain in the you-know-where). Heck, there not giving these things away. If there wasn't something to the tips, Toyota wouldn't suggest them. However, it is a personal decision (I've always followed them). Hope this information helps.
What about Sport vs Limited? No dual a/c, no leather wrapped steering wheel. Are bigger tires better? What about the "sport tuned suspension"? (I didn't really notice in the excitement of the moment.) The only other thing I can find are the power seats. MSRP's are virtually identical. What am I missing, or are there any other differences to check out?
Thanks for your thoughts.
jdr
Well, the $100 under invoice is only achieved with the help of the $400 rebate.
Do a search on the hybrid forums about fuel economy and the reasons why the driving public doesn't get the EPA numbers. It's quite an eye opener if you've never paid any attention to it.
The Prius and the rest of the hybrids have generated a wealth discussion and tremendously increased the base of knowledge of all consumers. If you want I can point you to some posts in other forums. It applies to all vehicles.
dont tow anything for a short time
dont do jackrabbit starts
try not to do panic stops - but be safe
That's it on all Toyota's for the first 1000 mi. Drive normally, dont baby it, dont push it too hard.
I have driven both the Sport and the Limited 4 and v6. Both are nice. The Sport handling is a little better but the ride is a little rougher. I think the bigger tires are 75% style and 25% performance. Some people here disagree. Before you buy a Sport you should drive it as you may not like the stiffer ride which is a little noiser on rough pavement. The handling is super but the Limited handling is fairly good also. The V6 is very powerful.
I am buying a Sport but that may not be the right choice for you. Drive both models with both engines.
Also, don't pay close to MSRP unless your deperate. You can get these things for $500-700 over invoice if your serious and patient. See www.fizmall.com for reasonable prices. Also, you dealer should be able to find or get you a red limited if your can wait a bit.
The new 2006 RAV4 interior is a major disappointment because the driver space seems smaller. The side walls curve more toward the interior and the plastic molding above the windows is larger. The space directly above my head ( six foot 2 inch body) is fine but it seems as if the side window frame is in the side of my head so that I can not lean when turning corners or for any other reason. Many cars are like this with the older Ford Taurus being the extreme example.
I can not sit in the back seat of the new RAV because my head hits the ceiling.
The front seat legroom is unchanged or slightly smaller.
I was looking forward to owning another RAV but "if the RAV don't fit I must git" (something else).
might bite the bullet if dealer comes down a bit, this is in NORCAL
Well, if you believe Click and Clack on Cartalk there is no chance of sucking up any residue from the bottom of the gas tanks in the vehicles of today because of the completely closed fuel systems (filter inside the tank). I guess, you could have someone vandalize your car and pour something nasty down the filler opening that could overcome the fuel filter. No one would vouch for any submerged fuel system like those on the vehicles coming from New Orleans and the Gulf Coast.
Gogiboy
But I often wait until my gauge is well below 1/4th (or even let the low fuel light come on) before filling up and I haven't had a fuel pump go out on me ... yet. :shades:
Steve, Host
Seems a little difficult to do this.
Any input?
Also when I click on consumer reviews from the 2006 forum it takes me to 2005 RAV4 reviews?
Meanwhile, if you go to the New Cars tab at Edmunds.com you can get there:
Consumer Ratings & Reviews
If you own a RAV4, please take a few minutes and fill out a review.
Steve, Host
As noted elsewhere in this thread, as long as you don't dog the engine and vary the speed and/or RPMs you should be ok. We'll see... my first 800 miles will include a fair amount of hilly terrain so I'm hopeful that'll help vary the load without overdoing it. I've even read that you should occasionally give it a little more oomph! to seat things properly. The same source suggested being *too* gentle during break-in can actually hinder the process long-term. Spare the rod and spoil the camshaft?
Yes, but they're mainly thru Canadian dealers .
After market moldings are available HERE also. '06 Rav4's aren't listed but they are available.
They're wider than the OEM moldings and more expensive.
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