Living is a small quiet place in Eastern Canada, I always find auto door locking an unneeded annoyance. So, I would like auto door locking, when available, to be switchable.
[Just re-read your post, yes, I agree it should be switchable... below is why I think it should be present at all.]
It's nice in two ways, in my opinion: 1) I live near Chicago (enough said there!) 2) If kids are in the back and the door isn't locked then they can open it easily (child safety feature - no pull-to-unlock - only works if the door is locked in the first place). About the only annoying thing is unlocking to pick up a passenger, but I'm used to that from my old car (with auto-locks). Again, YMMV but it seems an oddly simple thing for Toyota to have omitted.
there should be 'child locks" on the RAV, little switches on the dooredge, visible only when the door is open, that disables the inside handles for kids safety. Have a look.
The Center ARM Rest has two cup-holders, but I haven't seen one picture of the Rav4 showing the center armrest lying in between the left and right mid-row seats. Does it fold down only as a 60-40 split? If so, it wouldn't make sense to put two cup-holders in the center arm-rest when in order to use it, half of the mid-row seating would be rendered un-usable.
I have owned my V6 Rav4 for two weeks now. Its a 4X2 with 3rd row seat. We have driven it in all stop-and-go city driving. We have taken it pretty easy for the break-in period. The vast majority of the driving has probably been in the 35 to 55 mph range. On the first tank, we got 20.2 mpg. However, for what its worth, I am a little skeptical whether it truly had a "full tank of gas" as the dealer told me when I bought it (the needle wasn't quite as high as I have noticed it the two times I personally filled it up. Anyway, on the second tank of gas (again, all city driving), we received 21.4 mpg. So, there you go. We'll keep you posted.
I drive 160 miles each day on a flat interstate highway. Camry would be $1200 less money but I like the RAV4's higher driving position. Gas mileage is probably 10% better in the Camry. Any thoughts? Thank you, Mike
Both the Edmunds new car section here or the msn.com car site will give you invoice and msrp for all options. And the third row seat is cloth only.
If you look at the Toyota build and price site section for your zip code you will find out if you can "build" a RAV4 with DVD or third row in your region. If not, then the wait may be very long if ever!
I had the same issue. Couldn't get leather with 3rd row seat. Dealer offered to install for $1300, as opposed to $1050 MSRP ($840 Invoice) per Edmunds.com
Also, for DVD I've been quoted $1900 at dealership, as opposed to $1705 MSRP ($1364 Invoice) per Edmunds.com
We have a 10" portable DVD player for my daughter.. we're going to stick with that instead of getting the entertainment system installed! I'm sure I can connect the audio cable in the Ipod connection area for stereo sound through the SUV's speakers.
Well it comes down to a couple of issues then - 1) what sort of value do you put on the higher driving position? and 2) does the $1200 + 10% more gas make a big difference to you financially? No one can answer those, especially without giving us your personal financial situation (and I sure don't recommend it )
If $ is a primary concern, it's always best to buy a depreciated used vehicle, since your mileage is going to destroy the value of any vehicle.
The center armrest does have two cupholders. The side that is the 60 in the 60/40 split has the armrest. There is a little tab that you have to pull and then you can fold it down. It took me a little while to figure this out. Also, if the armrest is down and you spill it will go right into the cargo compartment.
when you pull the tab, does the entire '60' split fold down, or just the armrest portion of the '60' split? Through pictures I was thinking the entire '60' split has to be lowered to use the cupholders.
The tab is between the backrest and the armrest portion. Only the armrest, which is the center seat folds down. When folder down there is a space between the backrest for the two outside seats. So I guess you could say it is 40/20/40. I love the car...I am so glad that I got it, I was going to wait to get it with Leather and heated seats, since I live in NY, but I need a vehicle right away...
I picked up my Limited V6 on Monday. Got the dealer invoice from Car Cost Canada. They refered me to a dealership which was offering $1600 off MSRP. I took the invoice to my dealer and got them to match it.
yes, I think APA and Car Cost offer about 5% over invoice. However, they are in TO and Montreal...so you might have to be near enough to get the most out of the deal.
Last Friday finally had some nice weather in New York. I like driving with the rear windows open & front closed. The noise was real loud & the car started vibrating. All was ok once I opened a front window.
Just curious if any one has had this on other SUV's?
As the other posters mentioned this is a known issue. I have driven my brother's ford focus with the same probelm. The high pitched whistling noise can be eliminated by opening another window just a crack, to equalize the air pressure. Some people think this is a design flaw or a serious problem. Yes, if it happens on one Rav4, it will happen on all Rav4's...if driven in the exact same conditions. In fact if you are test driving this vehicle, drive another Rav4 right after...to see if you can re-create the problem. :shades:
I just got my (black) 2006 Sport yesterday and love everything about it but I think it would look even cooler with clear tail-light lenses (and a chrome exhaust extension) instead of the stock red ones.
Does anyone know if aftermarket lenses are available yet for the 2006?
Having read the other thread on hitches here I've still got questions. For my V6 Rav4 I've found what seems to be the right hitch for me (Hidden Hitch 70785). It seems it'll be quite easy to install. However, I have two questions (the first being more urgent since I want to place the order soon):
1) I already have a 1-1/4" mount bike rack from my previous vehicle, so I know I need a 2" to 1-1/4" receiver adapter... question is, should I actually get an adapter with extension due to the tire on the back and all, or is the adapter enough (some do not add any length at all to the hitch)? I have a Thule 935 Hitching Post Pro rack so it *should* be ok but I figure it's worth asking.
2) All this towing prep and pre-wire business... does that mean I have a flat-4 somewhere in the wheel well already or what?
Your new RAV4 has EPS, Electric Power Stearing, which is integrated with the VSC system. Your stearing wheel will now ACTIVELY RESIST being turned in the "wrong" direction during VSC activation.
If the front is plowing, understearing, it will make it hard to turn the stearing wheel to a greater angle. If the vehicle is over-stearing (unlikely with FWD or front torque biasing) it will assist you in turning the vehicle INTO the direction of the skid but resist otherwise.
No more FWD torque stear, either due to halfshaft windup or side to side traction inbalance.
If you have access to techinfo.toyota.com start reading at CH-114.
AND....
With heavy stearing loads, lots of lateral force, the 4WD system will automatically raise/switch engine torque to the rear as the level of side force at the front increases.
Not as good as the Acura SH-AWD system, but a movement in the right direction to help alleviate the hazards of FWD and front biased AWD.
should I actually get an adapter with extension due to the tire on the back
Someone posted info about this over on the RAV4world forum. Since this was an issue of interest to me, I paid attention. Without an extension the Thule bike rack only cleared the spare by a fraction of an inch. Since it is likely to flex a bit during travel, it was his conclusion that an extension was required to prevent damage to the spare cover.
I am also interested in hearing from anyone with the tow prep package about the "pre-wiring". What exactly is provided. It sounds like a plug in connector is installed. Is that right?
I was able to look under an I4 Rav4 and see that a hitch is trivial to install. The dealer told me that with the V6 tow prep, the wires and a connector are stowed under the rear end of the car to allow plug in of trailer connections. I have not been able to look at a V6 under there to see what it is like.
Funny you should mention it. I drove a Sport and Limited V6 at my dealer a few weeks ago. When I floored it from a standing start I thought for a second it pulled hard right but the wheel did not seem to move to the right so I sort of dismissed it all.
Now you have me wondering as to what was going on, unless it was all my imagination. By the way, as person who has experience in aircraft fly-by-wire flight controls I am hoping that the electrical assist can be over ridden at some point of steering input. I would not like to be trying to swerve to miss something/someone and not be able to steer. Any thoughts on this?
V6 Owners here could look for torgue steer once their engines are broken in.
I've seen pictures of the 2006 Rav4 with the spare tire removed. There appears to be a panel where the tire would be located. Has anyone purchased this piece? Is it an option in the US?
Oil canning? Have you experienced this or are you just asking? I vaguely remember someone complaining about their hood doing this years ago, but don't remember the make/model.
Yes I have. I was doing 65mph in 30mph winds. I was also behind a truck in considerable turbulence, but I have never before had a vehicle's sheet metal buckle under any driving conditions. I've emailed Toyota and I'd like to find out if anyone else has experienced this.
Since even the 4WD version is primarily FWD I doubt that the EPS would "assist" you in suddenly, quickly, turning right or left while under hard acceleration.
Not much different than a fly-by-wire control yoke resisting farther rearward deflection once the stall warning sounds. You can do it but it takes more muscle.
I drove across Pennsylvania with 25-30 winds with gusts much higher yesterday, did not notice this. Did the metal remained buckled? Also, to answer another question posted, I have noticed some engine torque creating some steering pull.
My wife drove about 25km on mostly level ground with the Downhill Assist Control on. Apparently, it took her a while to figure out what it was and how to turn it off.
I can't see how this would really do any harm but should I be concerned (about the car, although the wife was a bit frazzled by the experience and I'm having some doubts about the value of her MSc degree).
I think you can have the DAC button on and the DAC indicator will flash, but DAC isn't actually activated unless you have the vehicle in low gear. I suspect that if she was driving on level ground, she wouldn't have been in low gear, and just had the switch on inadvertently. I wouldn't be concerned about it.
Does anybody know the procedure for disabling the Vehicle Stability Control system? I'm guessing it's a "programming" thing where you push some buttons in a specific order within a specific time and that's it. It's probably in the shop manual.
I'm not necessarily going to turn it off right now but I'd like to have the option at least should it turn out to be a real annoyance.
If you unplug the engine's MAF/IAT module while the engine is running the engine will die. Reconnect the module and the engine will restart but now you have an engine fault light and by default the VSC/Trac system will be disabled until the engine fault clears in about 4 drive cycles.
Do you know what issue? I would not normally disable VSC.
But my Audi has a switch to do that and I have found that in deep snow where your going 10-20 mph or so it is better with VSC off as the VSC tends to kill monmentum as your trying to keep moving. I have only needed to do this maybe 3 times in four years.
Except for this deep snow thing, I find the Audi version near perfection. A yellow display symbol comes on and off as VSC activates but there is no sound. Except in snow or ice it rarely comes on.
Yes, I to have noticed a lot of tourque steering with the V6. The dealer said it was caused by the electronic steering being too sensitive under hard accelerations. This has resulted in a pulling side to side under very hard accerations. Not too big of a concern. Still lovin the V6
Torque stearing is the result of one halfshaft being shorter than the other and therefore will only "pull" to one side. And in reality the EPS is actually de-sensitized under hard acceleration.
Are there any problem areas to watch out for (aside from removing the radio antenna) when taking a 2006 RAV through a car wash (we usually use the "Simonize" fully-automated one at Canadian Tire)?
We had trouble with our old Taurus wagon; the front license plate sometimes got caught and mangled.
My friend owns an ML320 and said the same thing, he has to disable it to be able to get momentum in the snow. They should tune the systems better than that.
Comments
Living is a small quiet place in Eastern Canada, I always find auto door locking an unneeded annoyance. So, I would like auto door locking, when available, to be switchable.
It's nice in two ways, in my opinion: 1) I live near Chicago (enough said there!) 2) If kids are in the back and the door isn't locked then they can open it easily (child safety feature - no pull-to-unlock - only works if the door is locked in the first place). About the only annoying thing is unlocking to pick up a passenger, but I'm used to that from my old car (with auto-locks). Again, YMMV but it seems an oddly simple thing for Toyota to have omitted.
Any thoughts?
Thank you, Mike
My dealer told me I could not order 3rd row with leather. I had to choose one or the other. Anyone else heard this?
Also, They quoted $1500 - $1800 for the factory DVD. Some Non-Toyota web sights show it for just over $1000. Any ideas to find the actual price?
Of course, the dealer wants to sell me after market Leather and DVD. They have quoted me 5 month wait for factory orders. :confuse:
If you look at the Toyota build and price site section for your zip code you will find out if you can "build" a RAV4 with DVD or third row in your region. If not, then the wait may be very long if ever!
Also, for DVD I've been quoted $1900 at dealership, as opposed to $1705 MSRP ($1364 Invoice) per Edmunds.com
We have a 10" portable DVD player for my daughter.. we're going to stick with that instead of getting the entertainment system installed! I'm sure I can connect the audio cable in the Ipod connection area for stereo sound through the SUV's speakers.
If $ is a primary concern, it's always best to buy a depreciated used vehicle, since your mileage is going to destroy the value of any vehicle.
I'd be looking for a fuel miser, maybe a 4 cylinder Camry, potentially even a hybrid.
-juice
Just curious if any one has had this on other SUV's?
Some have even been known to start lifting off the pavement! :P
------------------------
Does anyone know if aftermarket lenses are available yet for the 2006?
Thanks,
Martin
1) I already have a 1-1/4" mount bike rack from my previous vehicle, so I know I need a 2" to 1-1/4" receiver adapter... question is, should I actually get an adapter with extension due to the tire on the back and all, or is the adapter enough (some do not add any length at all to the hitch)? I have a Thule 935 Hitching Post Pro rack so it *should* be ok but I figure it's worth asking.
2) All this towing prep and pre-wire business... does that mean I have a flat-4 somewhere in the wheel well already or what?
Regards,
Marty
If the front is plowing, understearing, it will make it hard to turn the stearing wheel to a greater angle. If the vehicle is over-stearing (unlikely with FWD or front torque biasing) it will assist you in turning the vehicle INTO the direction of the skid but resist otherwise.
No more FWD torque stear, either due to halfshaft windup or side to side traction inbalance.
If you have access to techinfo.toyota.com start reading at CH-114.
AND....
With heavy stearing loads, lots of lateral force, the 4WD system will automatically raise/switch engine torque to the rear as the level of side force at the front increases.
Not as good as the Acura SH-AWD system, but a movement in the right direction to help alleviate the hazards of FWD and front biased AWD.
Someone posted info about this over on the RAV4world forum. Since this was an issue of interest to me, I paid attention. Without an extension the Thule bike rack only cleared the spare by a fraction of an inch. Since it is likely to flex a bit during travel, it was his conclusion that an extension was required to prevent damage to the spare cover.
I am also interested in hearing from anyone with the tow prep package about the "pre-wiring". What exactly is provided. It sounds like a plug in connector is installed. Is that right?
My v6 ltd should be in next week. Before I pull off the lot I'll make sure I know where the wires are hidden.
Now you have me wondering as to what was going on, unless it was all my imagination. By the way, as person who has experience in aircraft fly-by-wire flight controls I am hoping that the electrical assist can be over ridden at some point of steering input. I would not like to be trying to swerve to miss something/someone and not be able to steer. Any thoughts on this?
V6 Owners here could look for torgue steer once their engines are broken in.
Steve, Host
Not much different than a fly-by-wire control yoke resisting farther rearward deflection once the stall warning sounds. You can do it but it takes more muscle.
My wife drove about 25km on mostly level ground with the Downhill Assist Control on. Apparently, it took her a while to figure out what it was and how to turn it off.
I can't see how this would really do any harm but should I be concerned (about the car, although the wife was a bit frazzled by the experience and I'm having some doubts about the value of her MSc degree).
- Martin
I'm not necessarily going to turn it off right now but I'd like to have the option at least should it turn out to be a real annoyance.
- Martin
-juice
VSC.
But my Audi has a switch to do that and I have found that in deep snow where your going 10-20 mph or so it is better with VSC off as the VSC tends to kill monmentum as your trying to keep moving. I have only needed to do this maybe 3 times in four years.
Except for this deep snow thing, I find the Audi version near perfection. A yellow display symbol comes on and off as VSC activates but there is no sound. Except in snow or ice it rarely comes on.
We had trouble with our old Taurus wagon; the front license plate sometimes got caught and mangled.
- Martin
Stats to date:
First tank 164 miles 10.5 gallons = 15.62 MPG
Second tank 240 miles 13.0 gallons = 18.46 MPG
To date 404 miles 23.5 gallons = 17.19 MPG
Now, I have to say, that I have a bit of a lead foot, and I love the V6, so I am sure that I am not driving under ideal conditions.
I must say that I love my new RAV!
C&D April 2006, I believe.
scotty: at least it's improving.
-juice