By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I have never bought a new car before. In following this forum I have heard about getting x amount over invoice. I have gone to edmunds and priced out the rav I want and it shows a quote for invoice and msrp. When people are talking about over invoice are they talking about what edmunds shows or does the dealer have their version of invoice and if so how do you know what that really is if you are working with a dealer by phone or internet? I'm trying to understand so I can know if I am really getting a good deal or not. Thanks in advance.
And yes you can get a RAV4 for $00-$750 over invoice both from them and local dealers if you don't jump at the first offer they try on you.
Good luck.
Don't overlook the Toyota RAV4: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion either.
Steve, Host
The link is taking me where it's supposed to go. It could have been a temporary glitch or perhaps you have a cache problem with your browser? Try clearing it.
tidester, host
http://www.drive.com.au/editorial/article.aspx?id=11038&vf=1
"It must have seemed like a good idea at the time for Toyota to launch its new-generation RAV4 off-roader in the rugged Australian bush; a chance to show that a city-slicker compact soft-roader can cut it in the wild.
But a combination of 45-degree heat and harsh terrain in South Australia's Wilpena Pound made for a formidable challenge that saw the RAV4 struggle and had Toyota engineers - flown in from Japan - scratching their heads.
The new RAV4, which will make its Australian debut at the Melbourne motor show this week, has gone from a constant four-wheel-drive to a torque-on-demand system, with a maximum of 45 per cent of the engine's torque fed to the rear wheels when needed.
It has also gained a lot of weight - 140 kilograms - over the model it supersedes (now 1550 kg to 1590 kg), yet the engine has been tweaked to produce just 5 kW more, 125 kW at a lofty 6000 rpm, and 224 Nm at a rather high 4000 rpm. The weight blunts acceleration.
The RAV4 struggled to climb a steep gravel incline from a standing start. Twice, the manual car simply washed off engine revs until it stalled, and out of fear of burning out the clutch, the decision was made to abandon the exercise, reverse down and take a run-up to the hill, which was successful.
A water crossing that followed posed little challenge for our car, but other Australian media complained trick electronics (it was presumed) limited the cars' power, leaving barely enough to create a wake ahead of the front wheels."
If your gonna tow on a regular basis the AWD
would seem to make sense. Especially if your going to pull a boat or somthing up a ramp or on bad weather.
a Highlander. I'm sure you'll test drive both, but I can
tell you the Highlander sure feels bigger & heavier.
Especially when cornering or going up steep inclines.
The Highlander is quieter as far as engine/exhaust/road noise, but makes up for this with more wind noise at cruising speed. Of course, my comparison is an I4 Rav4 against a V6 Highlander. Even so, the acceleration in the Rav4 is a bit better (since it's about 600 lbs. lighter). If you're considering the Rav4 V6, you'll really blow away the Highlander. To sum up, the Rav4 is just plain more fun to drive.
It's interesting that you find the I4 Rav4 has somewhat better acceleration than the V6 Highlander. Comparing them on the basis of torque-to-weight ratio, the Highlander is about 22% greater.
In my test drives of the I4 Rav4, I too found it more fun to drive than the Highlander, which is an important factor to me.
But what about space wise (rear seats, trunk, driver comfort)
Also rear visibility
How do you like rear door rav4 vs Highlander
Thanks a lot
Ross
The new Rav4 is somewhat bigger than I would have preferred. I was hoping it would be only about 6 inches longer, not a whopping 14.5 inches, and that the spare would be inside or under the vehicle.
I don't see much of a problem with rear visibility on either the Highlander or the Rav4. The spare tire on the new Rav 4 does block the view a little but not seriously. The side opening rear door would be fine if the spare tire were not mounted on it. The Highlander is better in that respect.
http://www.donlen.com/buildstart_toyota.asp
The spare wheel cover is locked in place when the rear door is closed by a latch which can be only opened with the rear door open.
Anybody know where the oil filter is located on the V6??? Not obvious to me on a cursory look from underneath.
- Martin
and now for my question....AOL had a blurb on their home page that said on Edmunds.com a person can view the TSB's on any given vehicle under the 'car maintenance' portion of Edmunds. I can't find this section...does anyone know how to tell me to find it?
Thanks,
Joyce in Arizona
Here's the link to the TSBs, recalls, etc:
Edmunds Maintenance Guide
Steve, Host
I know in Canada, they usually start arriving in Sept/Oct, but since this is a short release cycle for the 2006, I thought it might be different.
vroom2grow
http://www.donlen.com/buildstart_toyota.asp
Is the extra expense for the 4 wheel drive (initially and long term) worth it over the 2 wheel, given that I really only drive surface streets, but have had a few times where in bad weather had to go thru some mud or light snow?
tidester, host
http://www.toyota.co.nz/MOTMNav/RAV4launch
Click on the man or woman head picture frame... Do not forget to turn on your speakers...
WEll, maybe the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system...
The statement assumes the FWD only version has traction control that is always automatically turned on when you initially start the engine. FWD is dangerous enough absent not having traction control let alone inadvertently operating the vehicle with it turned off.
If you insist on buying a FWD "based" vehicle then I know of no instance except the SH-AWD system, wherein the AWD system isn't reactive, engages only "after the fact". So go with the FWD version only but be sure it has traction control, first, and VSC, or some form of stability control.
And never, NEVER put chains on the driven wheels and then drive at any speed above 10 MPH, especially on a slippery downhill slope.
Most automotive specialists will advise you that in adverse roadbed conditions it is NEVER a good idea to have a higher roadbed traction level on the front vs the rear. And as we all know, front engine FWD vehicles start out with this advantage and potential disadvantage. They always have higher traction at the front vs the rear, so the trick is to NEVER do anything to exacerbate the already unsafe nature of FWD.