I just purchased a 2006 V6 Limited 4WD RAV. The V6 is very peppy and road handling is terrific. Instead of going on about all the positives I would like to mention some negatives. Because the car is very quiet at highway speeds one hears significant wind noise around the lower windshield. The throttle is very jumpy and needs some getting used to. I find the driver side leg room a little tight (I am 6ft 1 in). I find the throttle pedal angle a little uncomfortable and required some experimentation to find right position on the pedal. This is my wife's car and she is extremely happy with the comfort level. I thought I would pass on some of my observations. It is a fun car to drive and extremely well built. A terrific SUV for people who hate SUV's.
sorry about that. I have never bought a new car before. In following this forum I have heard about getting x amount over invoice. I have gone to edmunds and priced out the rav I want and it shows a quote for invoice and msrp. When people are talking about over invoice are they talking about what edmunds shows or does the dealer have their version of invoice and if so how do you know what that really is if you are working with a dealer by phone or internet? I'm trying to understand so I can know if I am really getting a good deal or not. Thanks in advance.
Well I have found that the Edmond's "invoice"price is close to what my dealer talks about but Edmund's does not include the advertising fee that Toyota seems to include of about $450. If you want to get an idea of good prices see the RAV4 section of www.fitzmall.com.
And yes you can get a RAV4 for $00-$750 over invoice both from them and local dealers if you don't jump at the first offer they try on you. Good luck.
The prices on each similarly equipped are comparable because of the big discounts offered now on the Highlander. I would appreciate hearing the pros and cons as you see them.
Edmunds doesn't include the ad fees because they vary from region to region and are too hard to keep track of. I don't know how the data people keep track of all the invoice and option info for all those makes/models as it is!
The link is taking me where it's supposed to go. It could have been a temporary glitch or perhaps you have a cache problem with your browser? Try clearing it.
Thanks, typesix, for responding. Since in my case I wasn't doing a "hard" acceleration, I have to assume that the car I drove and the jerk I felt was not typical of 4cyl Automatic 4wd's.
Glad to see the negatives posted, I,ve chosen the limited v6 after driving both. Now I am just waiting to put my order in tomorrow. Is there anyone that bought the RAV4 V6 out there and has regrets???
I will soon be putting in my order for a V6 Rav 4 with the tow prep package.( about a 6 mth wait - they are only put in at the factory ) The only place they are now coming into the USA with the tow package are the few headed for Denver. ( I'm in Calif. ) My question is weather to get the on demand all wheel drive or the 2 wheel drive model. Toyota only says that ither way the V6 with the tow package can pull 3500 lbs. I seem to get varring opinions on this from the people I've talked to. Some have said the 4x4 on demand ( 95% of the time the car is in 2 wheel drie mode - transfering up to 40% of the power to the rear wheels only if there is detected slipage ) making for a more stable situation. Others have said all you realy want or need is the 2 wheel drive. Any coments?
From the Aussies: (Sorta sad the Rav can't take much abuse)
"It must have seemed like a good idea at the time for Toyota to launch its new-generation RAV4 off-roader in the rugged Australian bush; a chance to show that a city-slicker compact soft-roader can cut it in the wild.
But a combination of 45-degree heat and harsh terrain in South Australia's Wilpena Pound made for a formidable challenge that saw the RAV4 struggle and had Toyota engineers - flown in from Japan - scratching their heads.
The new RAV4, which will make its Australian debut at the Melbourne motor show this week, has gone from a constant four-wheel-drive to a torque-on-demand system, with a maximum of 45 per cent of the engine's torque fed to the rear wheels when needed.
It has also gained a lot of weight - 140 kilograms - over the model it supersedes (now 1550 kg to 1590 kg), yet the engine has been tweaked to produce just 5 kW more, 125 kW at a lofty 6000 rpm, and 224 Nm at a rather high 4000 rpm. The weight blunts acceleration.
The RAV4 struggled to climb a steep gravel incline from a standing start. Twice, the manual car simply washed off engine revs until it stalled, and out of fear of burning out the clutch, the decision was made to abandon the exercise, reverse down and take a run-up to the hill, which was successful.
A water crossing that followed posed little challenge for our car, but other Australian media complained trick electronics (it was presumed) limited the cars' power, leaving barely enough to create a wake ahead of the front wheels."
Well you have some bad info. There are V6 RAV4s with tow package all over the east coast. I have driven several in NY and the fitzmall site in MD has them. It depends on your region.
If your gonna tow on a regular basis the AWD would seem to make sense. Especially if your going to pull a boat or somthing up a ramp or on bad weather.
That was probably the case for my test drive. We just walked over to the spot in the newcar lineup where it was parked, started the engine, and off we drove. However, that still bothers me. It takes me back to a 1964 Corvair that I once owned (I bought it new). It was a stick shift and each time I started off with everything cold, I had to stay in 3rd gear (I believe it was a 4 spd) until things warmed up. I took it to the Chevy dealer once but he said he couldn't find anything wrong. Obvious thing was for me to leave it there over night but since the dealership was in the next town, I never got that arranged. Anyway, as I said, having to warm up the car to get rid of the jerk sort of bothers me. Thanks for your reply.
I've had the new Rav4 for a couple months & my folks have a Highlander. I'm sure you'll test drive both, but I can tell you the Highlander sure feels bigger & heavier. Especially when cornering or going up steep inclines. The Highlander is quieter as far as engine/exhaust/road noise, but makes up for this with more wind noise at cruising speed. Of course, my comparison is an I4 Rav4 against a V6 Highlander. Even so, the acceleration in the Rav4 is a bit better (since it's about 600 lbs. lighter). If you're considering the Rav4 V6, you'll really blow away the Highlander. To sum up, the Rav4 is just plain more fun to drive.
Thanks "hit_the_road" for your comments. I've had a real problem deciding between the two vehicles. If it were not for the external spare tire on the Rav4, I would choose it without futher ado. One thing that bothers me about the Highlander is that it will be replaced with a completely new design this fall, according to Edmunds. However I suspect it will grow in size by a few inches and feature a a truly functional third row seat, which I have no use for.
It's interesting that you find the I4 Rav4 has somewhat better acceleration than the V6 Highlander. Comparing them on the basis of torque-to-weight ratio, the Highlander is about 22% greater.
In my test drives of the I4 Rav4, I too found it more fun to drive than the Highlander, which is an important factor to me.
The RAV4 V6 is really fun to drive even with a somewhat touchy throttle. There is no comparison to the V6 Highlander or Pilot. Both drive like trucks compared to the RAV!
I drove an 01 Rav4 for nearly five years and found it almost perfect for my needs. The only negatives were the spare tire outside, and that it was a bit noisy on the highway. But it held the road nicely at 70 mph, and you couldn't beat for daily use around town.
The new Rav4 is somewhat bigger than I would have preferred. I was hoping it would be only about 6 inches longer, not a whopping 14.5 inches, and that the spare would be inside or under the vehicle.
I don't see much of a problem with rear visibility on either the Highlander or the Rav4. The spare tire on the new Rav 4 does block the view a little but not seriously. The side opening rear door would be fine if the spare tire were not mounted on it. The Highlander is better in that respect.
I like this arrangement. This gives me more and lower interior cargo space and also like the way the door swings open to the side. I am a avid cyclist and this makes for loading of my bike a lot easier. By the way I like the headroom in the RAV for I carry my large bike inside vertically (front wheel removed) and not drop the seat tube (saddle). I don't like outside bike racks or roof bike racks. Still plenty of space for luggage. This was a real chore with my Subaru Outback. Lots more usable space in the RAV. I also like the ride better and the V6 power.
The spare wheel cover is locked in place when the rear door is closed by a latch which can be only opened with the rear door open.
Anybody know where the oil filter is located on the V6??? Not obvious to me on a cursory look from underneath.
The latch to lock the spare wheel cover is not inside. It is near the bottom of the cover on the outside and with the door closed the latch cannot be opened due to by design interference with the rear bumper. I guess if someone wanted to steal the rear wheel they could use a hacksaw to cut open the latch when the door is closed.
IMO, as a I4 owner, everyone should be considering the V6. For the small sacrifice in mpg, you are gaining a heck of an engine. Anyone want my I4? Haha
My "Sport" has the soft, zippered cover. There's nothing (that I can see) to stop the cover from being unzipped but the spare tire is secured with a locking wheel nut anyway so it's not going anywhere too easily.
It's actually not bad - I'm still consistently getting around 24 mpg. I just filled up on Sunday, put 10.779 gals in and had driven 260 miles since last I'd filled up.
I am here in NE Pa, getting about 23 MPG with my V6 Ltd in mixed driving conditions, I have about 1400 miles on the car, and I have been enjoying the power of the V6.
It is pretty hilly where we're at, since we're a stone's throw from Lake Tahoe and the Sierras - so yes, we're at high altitude. My commute to work isn't what I would call all that hilly, which is the main chunk of driving I've done in the Rav4 thus far. It's mostly highway driving, with some city at beginning and end of the journey.
I have about 1400 miles on mine too, and like you, am enjoying the power of the V6! Such a dramatic contrast to the little Mazda Protege I used to drive!
i guess in ohio region they don't have the limited with the tow pac. at least thats what i was told they said they could dealer trade from another region but i wonder if that'll cost more i did'nt ask. they quoted a limited v6 4+4 with no leather no tow or jbl or running lights for 27,437 that sounds good i guess. just wondering about the dealer trade thing anyone know anything about how that works?
Thanks in great part to this fantastic list, I was determined to get a RAV4. They are hard to find in Arizona but I got lucky. I was convinced I wanted the 4cyl. and I drove it several times. Then, by chance, they got a V6 in. People were lined up to test drive it so I drove the 4cyl until it was my turn for the V6 test drive. The V6 won hands down. I bought it. People were still lining up to test drive MY car. LOL And it was a Limited..exactly what I wanted. I paid $500 under MSRP. and now for my question....AOL had a blurb on their home page that said on Edmunds.com a person can view the TSB's on any given vehicle under the 'car maintenance' portion of Edmunds. I can't find this section...does anyone know how to tell me to find it? Thanks, Joyce in Arizona
My RAV4 V6 has 600km no the odometer and I've driven the last 370 km mixed city Hwy stop and go and up to 120 km/h and my gas fill for this was 39 liters which computes to 10.54 l/100 km or 22.53 MPG (US gallon). Considering the fact that the car is far from broken in I think it's pretty good, thank you Toyota.
I have a Toyota brochure that shows a photo of the Sport model with a full hardshell spare tire cover. I know it only comes on the Limited model, but are they interchangable, given the different size tires/wheels? I'd prefer the full hard shell on the Sport model I have ordered. Of course, the booklet also shows a Limited with flint mica color also (under colors section), but the flint mica does not come with the Limited, or the base, as the footnote states..
Well the outside diameter of the 18" tire is the same as the 17" . You would have to measure a cover closely. And then pay Toyota a ton to order and paint one to match your Sport I bet. The msn car site shows the full hard cover as a dealer option for the Sport. Option TC but no price shown
I've gone over all the messages posted here,and have not found the answer to a probably really stupid question. Is the extra expense for the 4 wheel drive (initially and long term) worth it over the 2 wheel, given that I really only drive surface streets, but have had a few times where in bad weather had to go thru some mud or light snow?
I don't think there is a single answer to that question because it depends mainly on your requirements and circumstances. You may want to consider that the four wheel drive edition is heavier and your fuel costs will be slightly higher.
I don't know of, can't think of any, AWD system based on an original FWD vehicle wherein the AWD version is really worthwhile.
WEll, maybe the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system...
The statement assumes the FWD only version has traction control that is always automatically turned on when you initially start the engine. FWD is dangerous enough absent not having traction control let alone inadvertently operating the vehicle with it turned off.
If you insist on buying a FWD "based" vehicle then I know of no instance except the SH-AWD system, wherein the AWD system isn't reactive, engages only "after the fact". So go with the FWD version only but be sure it has traction control, first, and VSC, or some form of stability control.
And never, NEVER put chains on the driven wheels and then drive at any speed above 10 MPH, especially on a slippery downhill slope.
Most automotive specialists will advise you that in adverse roadbed conditions it is NEVER a good idea to have a higher roadbed traction level on the front vs the rear. And as we all know, front engine FWD vehicles start out with this advantage and potential disadvantage. They always have higher traction at the front vs the rear, so the trick is to NEVER do anything to exacerbate the already unsafe nature of FWD.
Comments
I have never bought a new car before. In following this forum I have heard about getting x amount over invoice. I have gone to edmunds and priced out the rav I want and it shows a quote for invoice and msrp. When people are talking about over invoice are they talking about what edmunds shows or does the dealer have their version of invoice and if so how do you know what that really is if you are working with a dealer by phone or internet? I'm trying to understand so I can know if I am really getting a good deal or not. Thanks in advance.
And yes you can get a RAV4 for $00-$750 over invoice both from them and local dealers if you don't jump at the first offer they try on you.
Good luck.
Don't overlook the Toyota RAV4: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion either.
Steve, Host
The link is taking me where it's supposed to go. It could have been a temporary glitch or perhaps you have a cache problem with your browser? Try clearing it.
tidester, host
http://www.drive.com.au/editorial/article.aspx?id=11038&vf=1
"It must have seemed like a good idea at the time for Toyota to launch its new-generation RAV4 off-roader in the rugged Australian bush; a chance to show that a city-slicker compact soft-roader can cut it in the wild.
But a combination of 45-degree heat and harsh terrain in South Australia's Wilpena Pound made for a formidable challenge that saw the RAV4 struggle and had Toyota engineers - flown in from Japan - scratching their heads.
The new RAV4, which will make its Australian debut at the Melbourne motor show this week, has gone from a constant four-wheel-drive to a torque-on-demand system, with a maximum of 45 per cent of the engine's torque fed to the rear wheels when needed.
It has also gained a lot of weight - 140 kilograms - over the model it supersedes (now 1550 kg to 1590 kg), yet the engine has been tweaked to produce just 5 kW more, 125 kW at a lofty 6000 rpm, and 224 Nm at a rather high 4000 rpm. The weight blunts acceleration.
The RAV4 struggled to climb a steep gravel incline from a standing start. Twice, the manual car simply washed off engine revs until it stalled, and out of fear of burning out the clutch, the decision was made to abandon the exercise, reverse down and take a run-up to the hill, which was successful.
A water crossing that followed posed little challenge for our car, but other Australian media complained trick electronics (it was presumed) limited the cars' power, leaving barely enough to create a wake ahead of the front wheels."
If your gonna tow on a regular basis the AWD
would seem to make sense. Especially if your going to pull a boat or somthing up a ramp or on bad weather.
a Highlander. I'm sure you'll test drive both, but I can
tell you the Highlander sure feels bigger & heavier.
Especially when cornering or going up steep inclines.
The Highlander is quieter as far as engine/exhaust/road noise, but makes up for this with more wind noise at cruising speed. Of course, my comparison is an I4 Rav4 against a V6 Highlander. Even so, the acceleration in the Rav4 is a bit better (since it's about 600 lbs. lighter). If you're considering the Rav4 V6, you'll really blow away the Highlander. To sum up, the Rav4 is just plain more fun to drive.
It's interesting that you find the I4 Rav4 has somewhat better acceleration than the V6 Highlander. Comparing them on the basis of torque-to-weight ratio, the Highlander is about 22% greater.
In my test drives of the I4 Rav4, I too found it more fun to drive than the Highlander, which is an important factor to me.
But what about space wise (rear seats, trunk, driver comfort)
Also rear visibility
How do you like rear door rav4 vs Highlander
Thanks a lot
Ross
The new Rav4 is somewhat bigger than I would have preferred. I was hoping it would be only about 6 inches longer, not a whopping 14.5 inches, and that the spare would be inside or under the vehicle.
I don't see much of a problem with rear visibility on either the Highlander or the Rav4. The spare tire on the new Rav 4 does block the view a little but not seriously. The side opening rear door would be fine if the spare tire were not mounted on it. The Highlander is better in that respect.
http://www.donlen.com/buildstart_toyota.asp
The spare wheel cover is locked in place when the rear door is closed by a latch which can be only opened with the rear door open.
Anybody know where the oil filter is located on the V6??? Not obvious to me on a cursory look from underneath.
- Martin
and now for my question....AOL had a blurb on their home page that said on Edmunds.com a person can view the TSB's on any given vehicle under the 'car maintenance' portion of Edmunds. I can't find this section...does anyone know how to tell me to find it?
Thanks,
Joyce in Arizona
Here's the link to the TSBs, recalls, etc:
Edmunds Maintenance Guide
Steve, Host
I know in Canada, they usually start arriving in Sept/Oct, but since this is a short release cycle for the 2006, I thought it might be different.
vroom2grow
http://www.donlen.com/buildstart_toyota.asp
Is the extra expense for the 4 wheel drive (initially and long term) worth it over the 2 wheel, given that I really only drive surface streets, but have had a few times where in bad weather had to go thru some mud or light snow?
tidester, host
http://www.toyota.co.nz/MOTMNav/RAV4launch
Click on the man or woman head picture frame... Do not forget to turn on your speakers...
WEll, maybe the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system...
The statement assumes the FWD only version has traction control that is always automatically turned on when you initially start the engine. FWD is dangerous enough absent not having traction control let alone inadvertently operating the vehicle with it turned off.
If you insist on buying a FWD "based" vehicle then I know of no instance except the SH-AWD system, wherein the AWD system isn't reactive, engages only "after the fact". So go with the FWD version only but be sure it has traction control, first, and VSC, or some form of stability control.
And never, NEVER put chains on the driven wheels and then drive at any speed above 10 MPH, especially on a slippery downhill slope.
Most automotive specialists will advise you that in adverse roadbed conditions it is NEVER a good idea to have a higher roadbed traction level on the front vs the rear. And as we all know, front engine FWD vehicles start out with this advantage and potential disadvantage. They always have higher traction at the front vs the rear, so the trick is to NEVER do anything to exacerbate the already unsafe nature of FWD.