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Comments
Other than turning, does anyone know what, if any, reason driving in 4wd would hurt on dry pavement if you are driving, say, on a straight stretch of interestate at hwy speeds? Obviously, with more parts moving, things will get a little more wear over time, but is there anything damaging, like there might be if you had in full 4wd on dry pavement in town where you would be making a lot of turns?
I flip the ESOF to 2wd going into parking lots and then shift it back to 4wd to get out of the parking lot and back on the road. That eliminates the binding up when maneuvering in parking lots.
Lewac, the PSD is covered for 100,000 miles under the standard warranty. However, I've been told that some things may not be, maybe like belts, which can get pricey. Any truth to that, and did your extended warranty pick up that slack?
For me, I'll be getting a little nervous next winter. I didn't opt for the extended warranty, and I should be hitting 36,000 miles by the end of summer. I got the extended warranty on my 92 and didn't get any use out of it. I had some pre-36,000 mile warranty work done, but none between 36,000 and 72,000. The extended warranty at that time didn't cover stuff like shocks, brakes, belts, hoses, clutches, etc. It basically only covered major drive train problems.
I like the clearance lights. They grow on you. With my camper on, I'm lit up like a Christmas tree anyway.
I know I may not be explaining it very well, it almost sounds like putting the clutch in when you have in understress, that kind of taking up of the slack in the drive train.
Just seems to be noticeably more than my past 4wd's.
Thanks again for any thoughts
ROTFLMAO = rolling on the floor laughing my @$$ off
Lewac-Reading your posts is like reading a great technical manual. Did you ever think a year ago that you would be the world's authority on truck orders? You are THE Ford orders information guy! A few of my horsey friends are in Florida this winter for a couple of months of warm-weather riding. I'll tell them to keep an eye out for the best looking Oxford White dually on the road ...clearance lights and all!
Cowpokes-Thank you
I had to push this fleet salesman through the whole process, he was either clueless or just doesn't care. More the latter I suspect, they don't make a lot off of us, and I never did feel he was too concerned with my order. At least he obviously had a good allotment. This forum allowed me to educate him and give that extra push. Thanks all!!
I have to admit, I ordered this truck sight unseen, never even drove one either. I needed a truck to carry a slide in camper and for me this truck was the only option I had. I thought maybe a few of you were just a little too happy with your trucks. But after spending two hours under, over and in this thing at the dealers, and then jumping on the freeway with this beast and driving awhile, it's an incredible truck - you all were right - awesome. I didn't find my slide in camper certification, so that remains to be solved, Brutus - what does it look like?? A paper, sticker, label?? They're going to call Ford for help Monday, but I'd like to know this one ahead of them too if I can.
ashewitt, my truck has a Kentucky sticker and VIN, so as we talked about previously, their recording must say foreign assembly plant to everybody. Dwucher, you won't get a VIN until after it's scheduled as far as I recall. The best news of all was it fit in the garage with about 2" to spare top and end. I can deal with that. Sorry this is so long, just a little pumped now that it's here.
Porky, the railcar holding my truck switched trains in Spokane, then took the Northern route over Stevens Pass. It was supposed to arrive in Kent WA. tomorrow morning, but it actually got there tonite, so I did not get a chance to see the train rumble by with my truck on it. I'll keep checking the Burlington-Northern VIN tracking tool, 'cause they have an "unloaded" status that tells you the truck is off the railcar.
Looks like sometime in the next week, I should be switching from a "have-not" to a "have"!
My thought was, since the beast would not fit in my garage and would have to be left out in the elements --- I could plug in a block heater and have "warm" water circulate throughout the system including the heater core. In essence, reducing any moisture inside the cab from sitting a couple of days. Western Washington State just doesn't see to many -10 to -30 nights ( or days for that matter!! If ever!!!) Oh well -- ignorance is bliss and when I finally sell, maybe it will be to someone from Alaska. Thanks again!!
Sdman: Hope you don't get a "run around" like lewac!!!! Will be looking for your post, "being a HAVE" before next week end !!! Good Luck !!! You WILL be THRILLED when you get your paws on it!!
I have a friend in Woodinville -- works for the city of Redmond -- D. Brunelle. Know him????
Can't wait to get the new rig! I ordered on December 8th, so the wait has not been too bad. My wife is even more excited than I am. I am also going to get a spray-in bedliner. Any recommendations for a Seattle-area installer?
Per your post and others, sounds like I ended up with a poor dealership. Having bought 3 GMCs and 2 Dodges in the past 10 years, I can only say my 1st attempt at Ford ownership hasn't been pleasant. Ironic -- I have one of those Ford Visa cards and ended up losing expired rebate $ because the delivery didn't show up by year-end. At least my "honey" had fun building them up!!
...For SNOWPLOW information, here in Central ILL, WESTERN is the plow of choice, although the newer BOSS plows are becoming more and more popular. The BOSS has a unique plow that you can put in a "V" position, or the standard straight blade. I checked into a few different models and the cost was anywhere between $3000.00 and $4500.00 depending on model(the v-boss blade the latter price), this was installed. If you live close to central ILL, I can give the name of the company I checked. They have the best reputation in the area.
....Something of a side note...pulled a SEMI out of our loading dock at work on thursday. We had some freezing rain and the tractor rig didn't have enough weight to overcome the incline/ice. Hooked tow rop up to front tow hook, put in low-range and backed up. The extra pull from the V-10 was enough to get him up and over the incline!! GO V-10 POWER!!
Y2K F250 XLT PSD 6SP 4WD CC Red - ordered at Eatonville Ford, Eatonville Washington on 12/8/99, eta next week!
So, just as a suggestion, when you do receive the survey --- fill it out honestly!!!!! Tell them what a couple of jerks they have representing Ford at this dealership and that you would never go back or recommend them to a friend. There really isn't space for comments but that didn't stop me from writing between the lines, telling them exactly how I felt. My personal experience was excellent except for the wait. I told them if it wasn't for the "friendly service" and "how can I help you today" attitude of the salesperson, I would have given up and bought a "Cheby" as Crazyelvis would put it.
(I'm making a basic assumption that everyone received this survey and that it was not a spot check from Ford.)
Hope this clears up any confusion.
Dave
I found a website with some pictures of Superdutys (and other trucks) and slide-in campers (mainly Bigfoot and Lance). One of the rigs looks very similar to mine. The website is:
www.duedall.fit.edu/bbff/
Click on Picture Gallery. Then click on Trucks & Slide-in Campers. The one that looks similar to mine belongs to a guy named Brian Aut. The differences are: my truck is black instead of grey; mine is a V-10, instead of PSD; my camper is a 99 model, although it looks the same as his 98; the trim on my camper is green, instead of maroon. The size and model of truck and camper are the same.
Maincowgirl... yeah, people often tell me to just give them the time!... don't tell them how to build the watch. honestly, though; I've learned much from this board in regard to a bunch of different issues. mostly just common sense application. all of these trucks are simply awesome (no matter the config) & it's the only reason some of us tolerate all the delays.
oturner1... "Husky". That was the brand I remember seeing in past posts. I think we can obtain them from our local truck accessory store... will be visiting them in a couple of weeks for some other stuff (getting line-X liner installed next Thurs then we pay a visit to the truck store). thanks.
dwucher... the average? don't know. but the average for a dealer with adequate allocation for your config ought to be no more than a couple of weeks after the DORA. note that you normally obtain a VIN well b4 you're scheduled... but not always. scheduling mostly has to do with dealer allocation. being "locked" has to do with the truck inventory (you don't get locked until ALL the parts for the truck are available for the build). your VIN (probably) could get held back due to the chassis itself not being avail. but is that realistic? no chassis? I don't think so. One thing, though; you NEED that VIN because it "ties" you directly to YOUR truck. finally, what time frame did they quote you for the various "stages"? are they in line with their "quotes"? if not?....
tbender1... my .o2. that kind of treatment is totally uncalled for & reason alone to abandon that dealership. AND they are WAY over their estimate (remember that MY delay was beyond dealership control and they busted "buns" to find where the hell the thing went. that's not the case here). look at some of the posts here... people are getting their trucks in as little as 5 to 6 weeks! the fact that this dealership can't keep people also tells a story in itself. and you need to order promptly (as my salesperson indicated a Ford shutdown on taking orders is not far in the future (had absolutely NO reason to "lie" about that))... As mentioned above (as well as others in prior posts); the VIN is MOST often issued BEFORE a build scheduling. remember. just because everyone has "left" should not change your "deal" with a "deal"-ership one iota. yes. you do have 6 months vested. but you also STILL do NOT have a VIN or scheduled build date! the problem now with a reorder is that Ford may have cut-off brand new orders (at least on some configs). check with a few dealers mentioned on this board & see what they say. remember that you can reorder a SECOND truck b4 you cancel this first one! keep us posted.
They would be great for tying stuff down (there are enough of them and they fit the strap hooks) except that the sheet metal has NO reinforcing and will deform very easily. (It's only a double layer sheet metal). I think that Ford is counting on the plastic caps to help add rigidity.
I choose to remove the caps and have my Rhino liner sprayed over the rail, but I then mounted my high-side toolboxes on the rail, so the holes were covered up again. Last year no one was making aluminum rail caps for the superdutys (that may have changed)
I installed DeeZee Brite Tread running boards (about $475 for pair of crew cab front and dually long box) and they look really sharp.
They look to cut ground clearance (especially with the LWB) but there are other parts that hang lower. Trucks this big can't fit on rock-crawling trails anyway - I'll have to use my "compact truck" (Chevy Suburban) for those (tow it to the trailhead with the SD)
I did notice that the DeeZee extruded running boards on the Suburban have much better grip. Diamond tread aluminum is NOT a slip resistant finish.
The DeeZee installation was very simple (although it took a while because I put them on all the way and then took them back off to add undercoating, rubber, and silicone for weatherproofing.) They slipped right into the factory step holes, all I had to drill were a few sheetmetal screw holes for the mudflap parts. If you just put them on once, you could do all 4 in a weekend day.
And where is my blanket or cooler???!!!!!!!
Next I need a Class IV hitch (one of the 11-12k rated ones?) and some kind of bedliner other than the Weyerhauser brand (4x8 plywood) I've used before. I'll post mileage and towing impressions when we load up the cargo trailer and hit the interstate. Thanks again, gang. Love this truck.
Happy towing!
The dealer gets a copy of that form after ford
records it in the dealer QC file. Any negitive
or positive responce should come from the dealer.
Believe me, that form has a lot of meaning!
Buy the way LOL stands for laughing out loud.
John
MY .02.
How do you think the ESOF will hold up to the constant heavy use with plowing ? I had originally ordered the ESOF but changed my mind and stuck with the old get out lock in the hubs and pull the lever. Less things to go wrong as I see it.
00 250 sd,sc,lariat,4x4,sb,V10,auto ordered 11/06/99
a weldor (I've owned my own shop for the past 23 yrs. ) and it seems to me that we repair a lot more Fishers than any other brand. Not too many Meyers around here for some reason but the ones I've seen in the past seem very similar to the westerns. That Curtis that I'm looking at can be seen on the net at www.curtisplow.com if you care to look. The Curtis is like the Bose because all of it comes off also. That $1800 price for the Meyers seems very good when compared to the westerns etc. I'm looking at around $2500 for the Curtis and I think the Westerns are close.
I don't know about the ESOF, I just took a chance on it. My salesman told me to switch my lockouts to the lock position when I plow ( they are either in auto or lock) but the owners manual says nothing about doing that. I don't see where it should make any difference, the manual position should be needed only if the auto system fails I think. You are right though, the old system does have less to go wrong and always worked good for me too. I haven't bought a new truck in 20 yrs. so I guess I went a little nuts on this one. So far I'm loving it.
The only ego I've seen on this site, ma'am (and I've only been tuning in since early last fall) is where some folks opine about things that they might not know a whole lot about, in which case it's their ego talking, not their know-how.
As for the Boss they come in both a straight blade and the v blade they have a web site a www.bossplow.com where you can get all there info on both types of plow.
I think if I had the ESOF I would still want to lock in the hubs manually, as this is a positive hub connection that does not use the magnets to place drive power to the front wheels. In 95 the magnetic hubs were not rated for plowing, they maybe heavy enough now but I wouldn't want to take the chance. My thinking is take the time to lock the hubs manually if your plowing as it is not going to hurt anything.
I still need to figure out where to get my spray-in bedliner done. based on the posts I've read, I plan on going with line-x, but there are three dealers to choose from in the Seattle area, and I am still hoping to get a recommendation from someone who has used one of them.
Not to so called lawyers that as of yet have not answered the question about if you are working for the auto industry or not.
John
Just a suggestion since I was the one who didn't let the semi-insulting comment that basically said anyone who would recommend using the threat of negative recourse against a dealership they feel wronged them......let's not get into a [non-permissible content removed] for tat. If you check out some of the other topics, such as many of the Tundra topics where you have a lot of the Toyota bashers against the Toyota lovers, there isn't much uselful information being exchanged. I think we've done a pretty good job of staying fairly focused and tend not to stray far from the subject (when we do, I'm often one of the offenders). I'll take the blame for this diversion and drop it. Everyone can determine their own recourse if they run into problems with their dealership.
Jeff L
Lewac.....what's up....or as the bud commercial goes....
whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaas Uuuuuuuuuuuup Ahhhhhhhhhhh!