I've noticed that my 00 350 PSD seems to hop / skip in 4WD going around sharp turns on dirt roads. If the surface is real slick (e.g., ice) it doesn't hop. I thought it was the weight from the PSD that made it to hard for the front wheels to slip but it sounds like this happens with the gas engines as well. I try to remember to go into 2WD before I turn in or out of my driveway but sometimes I forget. Of course sometimes after I turn I'm on ice again and I have to roll back and put it in 4WD to get up the drive but by then I'm pointed straight ahead - so - no hop.
The hop around a turn in 4wd does seem a little bit more in my 99 F-350 dually than in my 92 F-250 HD SRW. Still, the hop is normal. I'm no mechanic, so someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the explanation for the hop is pretty simple. There is even power to both front tires in 4wd. When you turn, one tire has a shorter distance to travel, but the power is still equal to both tires. On snow and ice, you'll still get the hop, but the one tire will get to slip to make up for the power difference. The lack of the tire slipping is why it is not recommended to drive in 4wd on dry pavement.
Other than turning, does anyone know what, if any, reason driving in 4wd would hurt on dry pavement if you are driving, say, on a straight stretch of interestate at hwy speeds? Obviously, with more parts moving, things will get a little more wear over time, but is there anything damaging, like there might be if you had in full 4wd on dry pavement in town where you would be making a lot of turns?
I flip the ESOF to 2wd going into parking lots and then shift it back to 4wd to get out of the parking lot and back on the road. That eliminates the binding up when maneuvering in parking lots.
Lewac, the PSD is covered for 100,000 miles under the standard warranty. However, I've been told that some things may not be, maybe like belts, which can get pricey. Any truth to that, and did your extended warranty pick up that slack?
For me, I'll be getting a little nervous next winter. I didn't opt for the extended warranty, and I should be hitting 36,000 miles by the end of summer. I got the extended warranty on my 92 and didn't get any use out of it. I had some pre-36,000 mile warranty work done, but none between 36,000 and 72,000. The extended warranty at that time didn't cover stuff like shocks, brakes, belts, hoses, clutches, etc. It basically only covered major drive train problems.
I like the clearance lights. They grow on you. With my camper on, I'm lit up like a Christmas tree anyway.
Thanks for the responses, I guess my question was much more of a question about real or percieved slack in the front assembly. To put it very simply, my 97 HD250 hopped just like all 4wd's in the locked mode and sharper than normal situations, ie parking, switch backs etc. The 350 seems to start the hops like normal but there seems to be some slack that is used up and then another hop. I know I may not be explaining it very well, it almost sounds like putting the clutch in when you have in understress, that kind of taking up of the slack in the drive train. Just seems to be noticeably more than my past 4wd's. Thanks again for any thoughts
2400 miles Y2K 350 V10 auto 3.73ls CC Lariat 4x4, 11.3 mpg 60/30/10 city/hwy/offroad. Best so far 16.2 I-10 San Antonio to Houston empty 70 mph. Yesterday,I got stuck in a water hole about 3 ft deep! Could not open the doors, front bumper and half the grille under water. We burned the clutch out of a Suzuki, and stuck a Toy, but the bad part is a D****e pulled me out (he was straining). But I guess it dont matter, I got out with mimium damage(running boards and pride). BTW what does "lol" mean?
I called the CAC today as advise in an earlier post. It takes a little more time than the VOPC and the information is still the same (clean and unscheduled), but I must say that talking to a live and polite person was a better experience than the listening to a computer.
I got an email from Sunset on Jan 21 telling me they had an F350 Lariat, 4x4, PSD, shortbed, etc. Not exactly what you ordered, but close enough that I'd think they'd offer it to you after 6 months! The big difference here is you ordered and I did not...at least from them. Seems to me they're feeding you a line about giving you the option on incoming retails. Probably also giving you a line on the diesel as the cause for the delay. The BIG delays seem to be with the V10 gassers, not diesels. I did see crew cab diesel on the lot at Ernhardts Ford in Tempe, maybe try them. Six months seems like a long time. By the way, I told them I had an order at another dealer at $500 over and they asked if I'd be interested in $300 under invoice! Yes I would, but not for a 6-month plus wait. My advise, check around and see what others can do, or go back and work them for a better price!
I've been browsing this forum daily since last November and it's been informative and entertaining. Test drove a Y2K F250 PSD in December. What a truck! Finally ordered on 01/05/2000 - F250 SD, 2WD, XLT, SC, LWB, PSD, AUTO, 3.73LS, 265/OWL, CMP PKG, TOW PKG, PWR-TTM, CD, CAB STEPS, CAB LIGHTS, etc ($300 over dealer invoice). Went to dealer and got copy of DORA a week later then settled in for the rest of the 12 week average wait. Don't really want or need the truck until the first of April. Saw the same configuration in Wedgewood Blue with Dark Denim Blue interior yesterday and thought I would change color. Great looking truck. I could put up with the extra heat and showing dust from the dark color. The dark colors just look outstanding when they are clean. Trotted over to the dealer this afternoon and asked if I could change the color on my order. "Sure, if it hasn't been scheduled yet. Let me check." He plugged in my order number on his terminal. "I don't believe this!" He picked up the 'phone and made a call to confirm what he just saw. "Sorry, it's too late. Your truck is already built and waiting for a rail car." THIRTY ONE days from order date to build complete date. Miracles do happen.... Could it be that someone felt I deserved this truck since I've driven the same ole rusty GMC since April 1977? Sure hope this is not a mistake on Ford's part. Now if it just doesn't decide to ride the rails and tour the country for the next umpteen weeks, I'll be crusin' in style by the end of this month. ETA date 02/24/2000. Maybe this is a good sign of things to come for the rest of you folks that are waiting.
I ordered a Y2K F250 PSD CC 4WD XLT on December 8th. My truck has been built and should be here next week (assuming it does have to go to Michigan first). Things seem to be moving faster after the New Year (for PSDs). I think your salesman is not being straight with you. It seems to me that Ford has been building many CCs lately. If I were you I would find another dealership.
Lewac-Reading your posts is like reading a great technical manual. Did you ever think a year ago that you would be the world's authority on truck orders? You are THE Ford orders information guy! A few of my horsey friends are in Florida this winter for a couple of months of warm-weather riding. I'll tell them to keep an eye out for the best looking Oxford White dually on the road ...clearance lights and all!
Well, it happened fast and furious, I'm a have. 10 and a half weeks. I called my salesman several times this week and he finally told me last night I would see my truck somewhere from the 9th-16th. Took bowhunting's advice and called customer service, I already knew from VOPC mine was supposed to be at the ramp. CAC said it was not only at the ramp but already unloaded. I left a message implying such to my salesman and asked if he could possibly call for me this AM. He did, and they told him they couldn't help him because my truck was already delivered. That shook him, he's a Mazda salesman, so he called the fleet guy at the affiliated Ford dealer, who still insisted the info he gave us Thursday was good. After another round of calls, the salesman convinced the desk-bound wonder to take a walk outside. Bullseye, a brand new dually F350 CC 4x4 SWB truck with all my gear and VIN sitting right on his lot!! I picked it up a few hours ago after they drove it 40 miles to the Mazda dealer. Thanks Bowhunting for the prompt!!!!!!!!! I had to push this fleet salesman through the whole process, he was either clueless or just doesn't care. More the latter I suspect, they don't make a lot off of us, and I never did feel he was too concerned with my order. At least he obviously had a good allotment. This forum allowed me to educate him and give that extra push. Thanks all!!
I have to admit, I ordered this truck sight unseen, never even drove one either. I needed a truck to carry a slide in camper and for me this truck was the only option I had. I thought maybe a few of you were just a little too happy with your trucks. But after spending two hours under, over and in this thing at the dealers, and then jumping on the freeway with this beast and driving awhile, it's an incredible truck - you all were right - awesome. I didn't find my slide in camper certification, so that remains to be solved, Brutus - what does it look like?? A paper, sticker, label?? They're going to call Ford for help Monday, but I'd like to know this one ahead of them too if I can.
ashewitt, my truck has a Kentucky sticker and VIN, so as we talked about previously, their recording must say foreign assembly plant to everybody. Dwucher, you won't get a VIN until after it's scheduled as far as I recall. The best news of all was it fit in the garage with about 2" to spare top and end. I can deal with that. Sorry this is so long, just a little pumped now that it's here.
Just an update on the progress of my truck across the states.
Porky, the railcar holding my truck switched trains in Spokane, then took the Northern route over Stevens Pass. It was supposed to arrive in Kent WA. tomorrow morning, but it actually got there tonite, so I did not get a chance to see the train rumble by with my truck on it. I'll keep checking the Burlington-Northern VIN tracking tool, 'cause they have an "unloaded" status that tells you the truck is off the railcar.
Looks like sometime in the next week, I should be switching from a "have-not" to a "have"!
Northpole1 & Brutus: Thanks for the response and education.(Post #399 & #400) This is the first vehicle that I have ordered with an engine block heater and I think my reasoning for doing so has been shot to s--t. My thought was, since the beast would not fit in my garage and would have to be left out in the elements --- I could plug in a block heater and have "warm" water circulate throughout the system including the heater core. In essence, reducing any moisture inside the cab from sitting a couple of days. Western Washington State just doesn't see to many -10 to -30 nights ( or days for that matter!! If ever!!!) Oh well -- ignorance is bliss and when I finally sell, maybe it will be to someone from Alaska. Thanks again!!
Sdman: Hope you don't get a "run around" like lewac!!!! Will be looking for your post, "being a HAVE" before next week end !!! Good Luck !!! You WILL be THRILLED when you get your paws on it!! I have a friend in Woodinville -- works for the city of Redmond -- D. Brunelle. Know him????
just took delivery on F-250 SD SC V-10 Auto w/ ESOF. Ordered on Oct. 5 , the wait was worth it. I would like any info on snowplows, what brand, what you like about yours (and don't) etc. I am leaning toward a Curtis SNO-PRO 3000 8 foot. Does anyone out there have one of this brand? If so have you ever owned a different brand and which do you like better? My 79 F-250 has a Western on it and I never had any trouble with it in all these years. Need some input to help me decide, THANKS!!
Can't wait to get the new rig! I ordered on December 8th, so the wait has not been too bad. My wife is even more excited than I am. I am also going to get a spray-in bedliner. Any recommendations for a Seattle-area installer?
original delivery was verbally "estimated" 12 weeks -- both my original salesman and the fleet manager have changed over since I placed the order back in August. When I called the salesman back for a VIN number, he said it would not be assigned until the build date was assigned. I did look at the VOC from last August and it showed a priority 10, VOPC last week still showed it "clean and unscheduled". 3 weeks ago I requested a DORA -- no response from the dealership. I tried calling the fleet manager 2 weeks ago about the delivery -- he appeared "annoyed", said I needed to deal with the salesman, and transferred my call before I could even finish describing my circumstance.
Per your post and others, sounds like I ended up with a poor dealership. Having bought 3 GMCs and 2 Dodges in the past 10 years, I can only say my 1st attempt at Ford ownership hasn't been pleasant. Ironic -- I have one of those Ford Visa cards and ended up losing expired rebate $ because the delivery didn't show up by year-end. At least my "honey" had fun building them up!!
...For those with 4x4 and experiencing "HOP" turning sharp corners, this is normal especially if the wheels are not allowed to slip. The slippage BRUTUS talked about just about sums it up. Even with slippage, turning sharp corners at slow speed, you will still experience the hop....like trying to perform a "u-ee". As far as driving 4x4 mode on DRY pavement, this is an ABSOLUTE NO-NO!! For intermittant slick spots, pulling a boat out of a lake you will be okay. If the roads are WET, you also should be okay. The problems driving on dry pavement with 4x4 mode for extended periods is the same as turning sharp corners. The dry pavement does not allow the front axle to "slip" therefore parts start to bind up due to the stress placed on the drivetrain. Generally, the U-Joints are the weakest link in the drivetrain and are the first to go. Best thing to do is to call a reputable 4x4 shop, or tranny shop if more tech. information is required. ...For SNOWPLOW information, here in Central ILL, WESTERN is the plow of choice, although the newer BOSS plows are becoming more and more popular. The BOSS has a unique plow that you can put in a "V" position, or the standard straight blade. I checked into a few different models and the cost was anywhere between $3000.00 and $4500.00 depending on model(the v-boss blade the latter price), this was installed. If you live close to central ILL, I can give the name of the company I checked. They have the best reputation in the area. ....Something of a side note...pulled a SEMI out of our loading dock at work on thursday. We had some freezing rain and the tractor rig didn't have enough weight to overcome the incline/ice. Hooked tow rop up to front tow hook, put in low-range and backed up. The extra pull from the V-10 was enough to get him up and over the incline!! GO V-10 POWER!!
The Ford dealer that I have been working with has been great. He has been very patient as I changed my mind through the process. He always spends the time to answer my questions. Originally he told me it might take 12-14 weeks for the order to arrive. It looks like my truck will arrive in 8 weeks! It is a family owned business in a small town. Very customer focused. In my opinion, it is not Ford that is your problem, it is the dealership. Good Luck
Y2K F250 XLT PSD 6SP 4WD CC Red - ordered at Eatonville Ford, Eatonville Washington on 12/8/99, eta next week!
I want to add a truck tool box. My wife wants a deep aluminum box to hold luggage and other gear. I want a box that will last but not cost a ransom. Any recommendations on brand?
You'll find the CAC number at Ford.com in either the buyer or owners connection under the contact us section. I've got a 2nd cousin there named Bruce Jelinek, ever run across him??
I received a survey from Ford Mo. Co. shortly after taking delivery of my truck. Almost all of the questions pertained to how you would rate your experience at the dealership where you purchased your truck. Goodness sakes knows that you have waited long enough for your truck, that it would not be worth the effort to tell the dealership to take a hike and start over. So, just as a suggestion, when you do receive the survey --- fill it out honestly!!!!! Tell them what a couple of jerks they have representing Ford at this dealership and that you would never go back or recommend them to a friend. There really isn't space for comments but that didn't stop me from writing between the lines, telling them exactly how I felt. My personal experience was excellent except for the wait. I told them if it wasn't for the "friendly service" and "how can I help you today" attitude of the salesperson, I would have given up and bought a "Cheby" as Crazyelvis would put it. (I'm making a basic assumption that everyone received this survey and that it was not a spot check from Ford.)
For those of you that have called VOPC and thought you heard that your truck has been released from the "foreign assembly plant", I believe what the message really says is "Ford assembly plant". Some folks who are hearing this message KNOW that their trucks are coming from the Kentucky Truck Plant; a VIN that starts with 1 confirms that a vehicle is built in the U.S. If your VIN starts with 3, your truck is coming from Mexico.
Now I know Ford is making too much profit off of us, they are giving all there employees computers. I also heard you can't order any more SC for 2000, they closed the ordering, but there taking orders for 2001. But don't feel bad I was skimping thru chevy's conferance room and people are being told it will be 5 to 6 months on ordering there too. They say my truck should be here sometine in the next two weeks.....Going to miss the warm garage where I have parked my company van for the last 5 months....but at least that spot will be filled with my 00 CC.
I think I had to initial something at the dealership that acknowledged that I had been given the camper certification. I think the certification was just another piece of paper in my owner's manual. I pretty much ignored it. I'm running about 500-700 over the 11,200 GVWR of my truck with the camper on, loaded for a trip, including passengers.
I found a website with some pictures of Superdutys (and other trucks) and slide-in campers (mainly Bigfoot and Lance). One of the rigs looks very similar to mine. The website is:
Click on Picture Gallery. Then click on Trucks & Slide-in Campers. The one that looks similar to mine belongs to a guy named Brian Aut. The differences are: my truck is black instead of grey; mine is a V-10, instead of PSD; my camper is a 99 model, although it looks the same as his 98; the trim on my camper is green, instead of maroon. The size and model of truck and camper are the same.
Brutus... only the engine is warranted for 100k & that doesn't include normal maintenance items (belts are considered a maintenance item from my understanding). the extended warranty from GEICO is basically bumper to bumper but excludes all maintenance items such as lamps, belts, brake pads, tires, etc. you also must obtain prior approval b4 taking it in for repair. I'm concerned about things like A/C, alternators (we ordered dual) starters, radiators, pumps, transmission, transfer case, differentials... major like components.
Maincowgirl... yeah, people often tell me to just give them the time!... don't tell them how to build the watch. honestly, though; I've learned much from this board in regard to a bunch of different issues. mostly just common sense application. all of these trucks are simply awesome (no matter the config) & it's the only reason some of us tolerate all the delays.
oturner1... "Husky". That was the brand I remember seeing in past posts. I think we can obtain them from our local truck accessory store... will be visiting them in a couple of weeks for some other stuff (getting line-X liner installed next Thurs then we pay a visit to the truck store). thanks.
dwucher... the average? don't know. but the average for a dealer with adequate allocation for your config ought to be no more than a couple of weeks after the DORA. note that you normally obtain a VIN well b4 you're scheduled... but not always. scheduling mostly has to do with dealer allocation. being "locked" has to do with the truck inventory (you don't get locked until ALL the parts for the truck are available for the build). your VIN (probably) could get held back due to the chassis itself not being avail. but is that realistic? no chassis? I don't think so. One thing, though; you NEED that VIN because it "ties" you directly to YOUR truck. finally, what time frame did they quote you for the various "stages"? are they in line with their "quotes"? if not?....
tbender1... my .o2. that kind of treatment is totally uncalled for & reason alone to abandon that dealership. AND they are WAY over their estimate (remember that MY delay was beyond dealership control and they busted "buns" to find where the hell the thing went. that's not the case here). look at some of the posts here... people are getting their trucks in as little as 5 to 6 weeks! the fact that this dealership can't keep people also tells a story in itself. and you need to order promptly (as my salesperson indicated a Ford shutdown on taking orders is not far in the future (had absolutely NO reason to "lie" about that))... As mentioned above (as well as others in prior posts); the VIN is MOST often issued BEFORE a build scheduling. remember. just because everyone has "left" should not change your "deal" with a "deal"-ership one iota. yes. you do have 6 months vested. but you also STILL do NOT have a VIN or scheduled build date! the problem now with a reorder is that Ford may have cut-off brand new orders (at least on some configs). check with a few dealers mentioned on this board & see what they say. remember that you can reorder a SECOND truck b4 you cancel this first one! keep us posted.
Mine was also off about 5 degrees when I picked it up. (no pulling, just crooked) I called the dealer when I got home the first day (I spent the day hauling two boats and picking up a load of 12' drywall) and he suggested I go ahead and load the truck with its permanent cargo (ladder rack/tool boxes in bed) and they would do an alignment with the first oil change. By that time it had settled a little and the wheel was straight - no adjustments were needed.
With all this discussion re: bedliners I thought I would just point out that the SD has plastic caps on the bed rails. If you pull them off, you are left with a LOT of holes. The caps are held on by way of 1/2"x2" holes in the sheet metal. There are two rows of them about 9" apart the whole length of the bed. They would be great for tying stuff down (there are enough of them and they fit the strap hooks) except that the sheet metal has NO reinforcing and will deform very easily. (It's only a double layer sheet metal). I think that Ford is counting on the plastic caps to help add rigidity.
I choose to remove the caps and have my Rhino liner sprayed over the rail, but I then mounted my high-side toolboxes on the rail, so the holes were covered up again. Last year no one was making aluminum rail caps for the superdutys (that may have changed)
(yet another post - I'm catching up on replies from being gone two weeks) I installed DeeZee Brite Tread running boards (about $475 for pair of crew cab front and dually long box) and they look really sharp. They look to cut ground clearance (especially with the LWB) but there are other parts that hang lower. Trucks this big can't fit on rock-crawling trails anyway - I'll have to use my "compact truck" (Chevy Suburban) for those (tow it to the trailhead with the SD)
I did notice that the DeeZee extruded running boards on the Suburban have much better grip. Diamond tread aluminum is NOT a slip resistant finish.
The DeeZee installation was very simple (although it took a while because I put them on all the way and then took them back off to add undercoating, rubber, and silicone for weatherproofing.) They slipped right into the factory step holes, all I had to drill were a few sheetmetal screw holes for the mudflap parts. If you just put them on once, you could do all 4 in a weekend day.
I to recieved a Customer Satisfaction Form..CSF..back in late October...I filled it out..answered it honestly....had a few problems with the dealer finance dude....Sent it back in the same day....I haven't heard one thing from anyone...I didn't expect to either. I don't think they REALLY care about what you have to say. If they did I would have heard back I would think. And where is my blanket or cooler???!!!!!!!
Yeeeeehaw. Bought a truck. Y2k SC longbed F350 SRW 4x4 XLT with 5.4 and 5 speed/4.10LS. Trailer tow, cab steps, marker lights and carpet delete. Deep wedgewood blue, gray interior. I reached the conclusion a week or two ago I wasn't going to be able to order and receive the Lariat I wanted by the time I needed it (next month), so it was going to have to be a stock truck. Try finding a gas supercab longbed in New England. They're parked right next to the white unicorns. Thursday I was in Eastern Mass. on business and heading for the Mass. Turnpike to go home. Framingham Ford is close by, so I dropped in. They had the truck sitting on the lot since last fall (special ordered April 99), and it's not a popular config for the city with a longbed and stick. I did't expect to like the 5.4/5spd., but was I wrong. It has good power across the board, and is very responsive to the throttle. Not a V10, but not a slug, either. Spent maybe ten minutes on the numbers with salesman Gary Clopeck and Brian McNulty, the truck manager. They wanted to sell. I wanted to buy. Bada bing bada boom, we signed a deal at a VERY friendly price and I'm ridin' tall. The 5 spd. shifts very smoothly, and the Triton has a nice V8 growl when tromped, which I confess to doing once or twice. We've got about 250 happy miles together, and I think we'll have many more. I want to thank everyone in this forum for all the guidance, and especially thank whomever recommended Framingham Ford here a week or two back. Gary and Brian are total professionals and good guys. There was absolutely no doubletalk or razzle-dazzle, no pressure or surprises. The company has been owned by one family for years. It's their only store, and Ford is their only franchise. They have several nice diesel dually supercabs on the lot, among others. None in gas,though. Next I need a Class IV hitch (one of the 11-12k rated ones?) and some kind of bedliner other than the Weyerhauser brand (4x8 plywood) I've used before. I'll post mileage and towing impressions when we load up the cargo trailer and hit the interstate. Thanks again, gang. Love this truck.
Like me, you've discovered that the 5sp + 4.10LS can make the SD lively with the 5.4L. Like you said, its not a V10, but you won't be the bottle neck in traffic either..
About the satisfaction form, don't worry they care The dealer gets a copy of that form after ford records it in the dealer QC file. Any negitive or positive responce should come from the dealer.
I would contact your Geico insurance rep, about that extended warranty, you should be able to get a 100000 mile bumper to bumper warranty for $6.00 per month with the $250.00 deductable Thats what they have here in Calif anyway, plus you shoulden't have to by it now, they should give you one year or 11000 mi on your truck before you have to by it. Since Ford gives you a 36000 bumper to bumper warranty anyway there isn't any reason to buy it before that first 11000 miles is up.
Buy the way LOL stands for laughing out loud. John
Here in Northeast Ohio(Lake Erie Snow Belt) The most popular plow is the Meyers followed by the Westerns. The road department where I live has started buying the Bose and they like them a lot. I have a friend who just bought a 8 foot Bose and paid $3700 installed. I can have a 7.5 foot Meyers installed for $1800. I currently have a Meyers 7.5 on my 95 F250 and the only problem has been a bad relay after two years of use. The nice thing I see with the Bose is when you remove the plow between snows everything is removed as one unit pump, blade, and lights leaving only the frame mount.but I personally don't think this is worth the added expense.
How do you think the ESOF will hold up to the constant heavy use with plowing ? I had originally ordered the ESOF but changed my mind and stuck with the old get out lock in the hubs and pull the lever. Less things to go wrong as I see it.
Call me a dummy now, but "STAGES" were never discussed. Was told at the time 1/10/00 that allotment was best in fort worth, and took them at their word. I'm not really to concerned, but will be on the phone tomorrow just to check it out. Will try to find out how many are in front, and hit them with a few more questions that I have picked up from here since ordering. I should get a better feel about what's going on after that. Was originally told 10 to 12. Just for laughs, I read a post on the diesel site. The guy said he ordered around 01/17, and his build date was 02/07. Go figure??? V10 tooo!
Thanks for the info, I have not seen a Bose yet. Are they the ones that can convert to a V plow? I'm a weldor (I've owned my own shop for the past 23 yrs. ) and it seems to me that we repair a lot more Fishers than any other brand. Not too many Meyers around here for some reason but the ones I've seen in the past seem very similar to the westerns. That Curtis that I'm looking at can be seen on the net at www.curtisplow.com if you care to look. The Curtis is like the Bose because all of it comes off also. That $1800 price for the Meyers seems very good when compared to the westerns etc. I'm looking at around $2500 for the Curtis and I think the Westerns are close.
I don't know about the ESOF, I just took a chance on it. My salesman told me to switch my lockouts to the lock position when I plow ( they are either in auto or lock) but the owners manual says nothing about doing that. I don't see where it should make any difference, the manual position should be needed only if the auto system fails I think. You are right though, the old system does have less to go wrong and always worked good for me too. I haven't bought a new truck in 20 yrs. so I guess I went a little nuts on this one. So far I'm loving it.
earn a living by giving sound advice and suing people when it is necessary. I'm the kind that gets his facts straight so that I don't threaten recourses that don't exist (and I'm not in the auto business), and I try to counsel people against doing silly things.
The only ego I've seen on this site, ma'am (and I've only been tuning in since early last fall) is where some folks opine about things that they might not know a whole lot about, in which case it's their ego talking, not their know-how.
Thanks for the info on Curtiss, your right it is very similar to the Boss in it's mounting and design, I had never heard of them until now. As for the Boss they come in both a straight blade and the v blade they have a web site a www.bossplow.com where you can get all there info on both types of plow. I think if I had the ESOF I would still want to lock in the hubs manually, as this is a positive hub connection that does not use the magnets to place drive power to the front wheels. In 95 the magnetic hubs were not rated for plowing, they maybe heavy enough now but I wouldn't want to take the chance. My thinking is take the time to lock the hubs manually if your plowing as it is not going to hurt anything.
Well, I am hoping for the big call from the dealer sometime this week. According to the Burlington-Northern site, the truck has been unloaded at the Orillia vehicle facility (which is only about 10 miles from the dealership). Got my financing lined up through eloan.com (it was extremely painless), but I before I hand over the eloan draft, I'll see if the dealer cares to beat the interest rate.
I still need to figure out where to get my spray-in bedliner done. based on the posts I've read, I plan on going with line-x, but there are three dealers to choose from in the Seattle area, and I am still hoping to get a recommendation from someone who has used one of them.
I don't think most people here do things that they don't know about. Most of us listen to advice from fellow truck buyers that have had similar experiences or problems that might have a solution. Not to so called lawyers that as of yet have not answered the question about if you are working for the auto industry or not. John
Actually, he did say that he didn't work for the auto industry.
Just a suggestion since I was the one who didn't let the semi-insulting comment that basically said anyone who would recommend using the threat of negative recourse against a dealership they feel wronged them......let's not get into a [non-permissible content removed] for tat. If you check out some of the other topics, such as many of the Tundra topics where you have a lot of the Toyota bashers against the Toyota lovers, there isn't much uselful information being exchanged. I think we've done a pretty good job of staying fairly focused and tend not to stray far from the subject (when we do, I'm often one of the offenders). I'll take the blame for this diversion and drop it. Everyone can determine their own recourse if they run into problems with their dealership.
(well, not much offense taken), and none was intended; just a spirited debate and trying to offer help in an area I know a little about. Always good to shake hands after a game. Good suggestion: consider it dropped on this end, and a hand extended.
Does anyone out there have any experience with the TRAC RAC system on their super duty. I recently purchased a system, and it doesn't seem to be a good match with stock bed rail protectors on my 2000 super duty. I can probably make it work with some ingenuity, but any help would be great. Thanks in advance! Jeff L
geez man....you are such a trouble maker!!!! But since you know A LOT about trucks and such....I think we will give you a pass....ha ha ha..... Lewac.....what's up....or as the bud commercial goes.... whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaas Uuuuuuuuuuuup Ahhhhhhhhhhh!
I have a 99 sd.sc. sb. with the track rack ladder racks they are great! No trouble to install at all. Absoluteley the best racks i have ever owned (and i have owned a lot) if you get them i don't think you'll regret it at all
Sorry about the end of my last post i guess i did not read your whole question. What do you have to alter to install, mine just fit right in the existing stake pockets over the plastic bed rails No trouble at all! You can email me if you want and i"ll post photo's if it will help.
Comments
Other than turning, does anyone know what, if any, reason driving in 4wd would hurt on dry pavement if you are driving, say, on a straight stretch of interestate at hwy speeds? Obviously, with more parts moving, things will get a little more wear over time, but is there anything damaging, like there might be if you had in full 4wd on dry pavement in town where you would be making a lot of turns?
I flip the ESOF to 2wd going into parking lots and then shift it back to 4wd to get out of the parking lot and back on the road. That eliminates the binding up when maneuvering in parking lots.
Lewac, the PSD is covered for 100,000 miles under the standard warranty. However, I've been told that some things may not be, maybe like belts, which can get pricey. Any truth to that, and did your extended warranty pick up that slack?
For me, I'll be getting a little nervous next winter. I didn't opt for the extended warranty, and I should be hitting 36,000 miles by the end of summer. I got the extended warranty on my 92 and didn't get any use out of it. I had some pre-36,000 mile warranty work done, but none between 36,000 and 72,000. The extended warranty at that time didn't cover stuff like shocks, brakes, belts, hoses, clutches, etc. It basically only covered major drive train problems.
I like the clearance lights. They grow on you. With my camper on, I'm lit up like a Christmas tree anyway.
I know I may not be explaining it very well, it almost sounds like putting the clutch in when you have in understress, that kind of taking up of the slack in the drive train.
Just seems to be noticeably more than my past 4wd's.
Thanks again for any thoughts
ROTFLMAO = rolling on the floor laughing my @$$ off
Lewac-Reading your posts is like reading a great technical manual. Did you ever think a year ago that you would be the world's authority on truck orders? You are THE Ford orders information guy! A few of my horsey friends are in Florida this winter for a couple of months of warm-weather riding. I'll tell them to keep an eye out for the best looking Oxford White dually on the road ...clearance lights and all!
Cowpokes-Thank you
I had to push this fleet salesman through the whole process, he was either clueless or just doesn't care. More the latter I suspect, they don't make a lot off of us, and I never did feel he was too concerned with my order. At least he obviously had a good allotment. This forum allowed me to educate him and give that extra push. Thanks all!!
I have to admit, I ordered this truck sight unseen, never even drove one either. I needed a truck to carry a slide in camper and for me this truck was the only option I had. I thought maybe a few of you were just a little too happy with your trucks. But after spending two hours under, over and in this thing at the dealers, and then jumping on the freeway with this beast and driving awhile, it's an incredible truck - you all were right - awesome. I didn't find my slide in camper certification, so that remains to be solved, Brutus - what does it look like?? A paper, sticker, label?? They're going to call Ford for help Monday, but I'd like to know this one ahead of them too if I can.
ashewitt, my truck has a Kentucky sticker and VIN, so as we talked about previously, their recording must say foreign assembly plant to everybody. Dwucher, you won't get a VIN until after it's scheduled as far as I recall. The best news of all was it fit in the garage with about 2" to spare top and end. I can deal with that. Sorry this is so long, just a little pumped now that it's here.
Porky, the railcar holding my truck switched trains in Spokane, then took the Northern route over Stevens Pass. It was supposed to arrive in Kent WA. tomorrow morning, but it actually got there tonite, so I did not get a chance to see the train rumble by with my truck on it. I'll keep checking the Burlington-Northern VIN tracking tool, 'cause they have an "unloaded" status that tells you the truck is off the railcar.
Looks like sometime in the next week, I should be switching from a "have-not" to a "have"!
My thought was, since the beast would not fit in my garage and would have to be left out in the elements --- I could plug in a block heater and have "warm" water circulate throughout the system including the heater core. In essence, reducing any moisture inside the cab from sitting a couple of days. Western Washington State just doesn't see to many -10 to -30 nights ( or days for that matter!! If ever!!!) Oh well -- ignorance is bliss and when I finally sell, maybe it will be to someone from Alaska. Thanks again!!
Sdman: Hope you don't get a "run around" like lewac!!!! Will be looking for your post, "being a HAVE" before next week end !!! Good Luck !!! You WILL be THRILLED when you get your paws on it!!
I have a friend in Woodinville -- works for the city of Redmond -- D. Brunelle. Know him????
Can't wait to get the new rig! I ordered on December 8th, so the wait has not been too bad. My wife is even more excited than I am. I am also going to get a spray-in bedliner. Any recommendations for a Seattle-area installer?
Per your post and others, sounds like I ended up with a poor dealership. Having bought 3 GMCs and 2 Dodges in the past 10 years, I can only say my 1st attempt at Ford ownership hasn't been pleasant. Ironic -- I have one of those Ford Visa cards and ended up losing expired rebate $ because the delivery didn't show up by year-end. At least my "honey" had fun building them up!!
...For SNOWPLOW information, here in Central ILL, WESTERN is the plow of choice, although the newer BOSS plows are becoming more and more popular. The BOSS has a unique plow that you can put in a "V" position, or the standard straight blade. I checked into a few different models and the cost was anywhere between $3000.00 and $4500.00 depending on model(the v-boss blade the latter price), this was installed. If you live close to central ILL, I can give the name of the company I checked. They have the best reputation in the area.
....Something of a side note...pulled a SEMI out of our loading dock at work on thursday. We had some freezing rain and the tractor rig didn't have enough weight to overcome the incline/ice. Hooked tow rop up to front tow hook, put in low-range and backed up. The extra pull from the V-10 was enough to get him up and over the incline!! GO V-10 POWER!!
Y2K F250 XLT PSD 6SP 4WD CC Red - ordered at Eatonville Ford, Eatonville Washington on 12/8/99, eta next week!
So, just as a suggestion, when you do receive the survey --- fill it out honestly!!!!! Tell them what a couple of jerks they have representing Ford at this dealership and that you would never go back or recommend them to a friend. There really isn't space for comments but that didn't stop me from writing between the lines, telling them exactly how I felt. My personal experience was excellent except for the wait. I told them if it wasn't for the "friendly service" and "how can I help you today" attitude of the salesperson, I would have given up and bought a "Cheby" as Crazyelvis would put it.
(I'm making a basic assumption that everyone received this survey and that it was not a spot check from Ford.)
Hope this clears up any confusion.
Dave
I found a website with some pictures of Superdutys (and other trucks) and slide-in campers (mainly Bigfoot and Lance). One of the rigs looks very similar to mine. The website is:
www.duedall.fit.edu/bbff/
Click on Picture Gallery. Then click on Trucks & Slide-in Campers. The one that looks similar to mine belongs to a guy named Brian Aut. The differences are: my truck is black instead of grey; mine is a V-10, instead of PSD; my camper is a 99 model, although it looks the same as his 98; the trim on my camper is green, instead of maroon. The size and model of truck and camper are the same.
Maincowgirl... yeah, people often tell me to just give them the time!... don't tell them how to build the watch. honestly, though; I've learned much from this board in regard to a bunch of different issues. mostly just common sense application. all of these trucks are simply awesome (no matter the config) & it's the only reason some of us tolerate all the delays.
oturner1... "Husky". That was the brand I remember seeing in past posts. I think we can obtain them from our local truck accessory store... will be visiting them in a couple of weeks for some other stuff (getting line-X liner installed next Thurs then we pay a visit to the truck store). thanks.
dwucher... the average? don't know. but the average for a dealer with adequate allocation for your config ought to be no more than a couple of weeks after the DORA. note that you normally obtain a VIN well b4 you're scheduled... but not always. scheduling mostly has to do with dealer allocation. being "locked" has to do with the truck inventory (you don't get locked until ALL the parts for the truck are available for the build). your VIN (probably) could get held back due to the chassis itself not being avail. but is that realistic? no chassis? I don't think so. One thing, though; you NEED that VIN because it "ties" you directly to YOUR truck. finally, what time frame did they quote you for the various "stages"? are they in line with their "quotes"? if not?....
tbender1... my .o2. that kind of treatment is totally uncalled for & reason alone to abandon that dealership. AND they are WAY over their estimate (remember that MY delay was beyond dealership control and they busted "buns" to find where the hell the thing went. that's not the case here). look at some of the posts here... people are getting their trucks in as little as 5 to 6 weeks! the fact that this dealership can't keep people also tells a story in itself. and you need to order promptly (as my salesperson indicated a Ford shutdown on taking orders is not far in the future (had absolutely NO reason to "lie" about that))... As mentioned above (as well as others in prior posts); the VIN is MOST often issued BEFORE a build scheduling. remember. just because everyone has "left" should not change your "deal" with a "deal"-ership one iota. yes. you do have 6 months vested. but you also STILL do NOT have a VIN or scheduled build date! the problem now with a reorder is that Ford may have cut-off brand new orders (at least on some configs). check with a few dealers mentioned on this board & see what they say. remember that you can reorder a SECOND truck b4 you cancel this first one! keep us posted.
They would be great for tying stuff down (there are enough of them and they fit the strap hooks) except that the sheet metal has NO reinforcing and will deform very easily. (It's only a double layer sheet metal). I think that Ford is counting on the plastic caps to help add rigidity.
I choose to remove the caps and have my Rhino liner sprayed over the rail, but I then mounted my high-side toolboxes on the rail, so the holes were covered up again. Last year no one was making aluminum rail caps for the superdutys (that may have changed)
I installed DeeZee Brite Tread running boards (about $475 for pair of crew cab front and dually long box) and they look really sharp.
They look to cut ground clearance (especially with the LWB) but there are other parts that hang lower. Trucks this big can't fit on rock-crawling trails anyway - I'll have to use my "compact truck" (Chevy Suburban) for those (tow it to the trailhead with the SD)
I did notice that the DeeZee extruded running boards on the Suburban have much better grip. Diamond tread aluminum is NOT a slip resistant finish.
The DeeZee installation was very simple (although it took a while because I put them on all the way and then took them back off to add undercoating, rubber, and silicone for weatherproofing.) They slipped right into the factory step holes, all I had to drill were a few sheetmetal screw holes for the mudflap parts. If you just put them on once, you could do all 4 in a weekend day.
And where is my blanket or cooler???!!!!!!!
Next I need a Class IV hitch (one of the 11-12k rated ones?) and some kind of bedliner other than the Weyerhauser brand (4x8 plywood) I've used before. I'll post mileage and towing impressions when we load up the cargo trailer and hit the interstate. Thanks again, gang. Love this truck.
Happy towing!
The dealer gets a copy of that form after ford
records it in the dealer QC file. Any negitive
or positive responce should come from the dealer.
Believe me, that form has a lot of meaning!
Buy the way LOL stands for laughing out loud.
John
MY .02.
How do you think the ESOF will hold up to the constant heavy use with plowing ? I had originally ordered the ESOF but changed my mind and stuck with the old get out lock in the hubs and pull the lever. Less things to go wrong as I see it.
00 250 sd,sc,lariat,4x4,sb,V10,auto ordered 11/06/99
a weldor (I've owned my own shop for the past 23 yrs. ) and it seems to me that we repair a lot more Fishers than any other brand. Not too many Meyers around here for some reason but the ones I've seen in the past seem very similar to the westerns. That Curtis that I'm looking at can be seen on the net at www.curtisplow.com if you care to look. The Curtis is like the Bose because all of it comes off also. That $1800 price for the Meyers seems very good when compared to the westerns etc. I'm looking at around $2500 for the Curtis and I think the Westerns are close.
I don't know about the ESOF, I just took a chance on it. My salesman told me to switch my lockouts to the lock position when I plow ( they are either in auto or lock) but the owners manual says nothing about doing that. I don't see where it should make any difference, the manual position should be needed only if the auto system fails I think. You are right though, the old system does have less to go wrong and always worked good for me too. I haven't bought a new truck in 20 yrs. so I guess I went a little nuts on this one. So far I'm loving it.
The only ego I've seen on this site, ma'am (and I've only been tuning in since early last fall) is where some folks opine about things that they might not know a whole lot about, in which case it's their ego talking, not their know-how.
As for the Boss they come in both a straight blade and the v blade they have a web site a www.bossplow.com where you can get all there info on both types of plow.
I think if I had the ESOF I would still want to lock in the hubs manually, as this is a positive hub connection that does not use the magnets to place drive power to the front wheels. In 95 the magnetic hubs were not rated for plowing, they maybe heavy enough now but I wouldn't want to take the chance. My thinking is take the time to lock the hubs manually if your plowing as it is not going to hurt anything.
I still need to figure out where to get my spray-in bedliner done. based on the posts I've read, I plan on going with line-x, but there are three dealers to choose from in the Seattle area, and I am still hoping to get a recommendation from someone who has used one of them.
Not to so called lawyers that as of yet have not answered the question about if you are working for the auto industry or not.
John
Just a suggestion since I was the one who didn't let the semi-insulting comment that basically said anyone who would recommend using the threat of negative recourse against a dealership they feel wronged them......let's not get into a [non-permissible content removed] for tat. If you check out some of the other topics, such as many of the Tundra topics where you have a lot of the Toyota bashers against the Toyota lovers, there isn't much uselful information being exchanged. I think we've done a pretty good job of staying fairly focused and tend not to stray far from the subject (when we do, I'm often one of the offenders). I'll take the blame for this diversion and drop it. Everyone can determine their own recourse if they run into problems with their dealership.
Jeff L
Lewac.....what's up....or as the bud commercial goes....
whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaas Uuuuuuuuuuuup Ahhhhhhhhhhh!