Options

Ford Super Duty - Continued V

meredithmeredith Member Posts: 575
edited March 2014 in Ford
This topic is a continuation of Topic 1356....

Ford Super Duty - Continued IV. Please continue
these discussions here.
«13456712

Comments

  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Nothing much to say.. 3200 miles on the truck and all is well! The 5sp is getting a little easier to shift, at first it was a little tight compared to my Ranger that has 190,000 on it..

    Y2K F250 XLT 4x2 SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS White
  • mainecowgirlmainecowgirl Member Posts: 103
    What you wrote about your truck buying experience here in Maine is almost exactly what I have experienced. I am still being hounded by Whited to buy that used '99 with the (now) new bedliner. As with you it has been like pulling teeth to get prices on new trucks that would have to be ordered and my trade. I walked into Kallis and chatted with Tim. He's great..so laid back, not assuming he knows more than you. Like you said a real straight shooter. He gave me a lower price than Wiscasset.

    The only concern I have is the FDAF cost is $250. Is that a bit high? And do you know if that can be negotiated...although I am tempted to just let it go only because it has been so easy to get a good deal on all other fronts. You said you ordered your truck in November. When did you receive it? I am thinking that the wait for a super cab is not quite what it is for a crew. Tim said about 3-4 months, but you didn't seem to wait that long. I am getting a '00 F250 SD SC 4X4 auto SWB V10 XLT 3.73 reg. axle toreador red/silver. Quite similar to yours. I'll be ordering in the next day or so, so the wait will be on.

    Thanks for your input on the Maine truck buying experience. Now you can even use your 4X4. We got about 10" of snow here in Lincolnville!
  • sailboatsailboat Member Posts: 21
    I'm still clean and unscheduled, so naturally I Keep thinking about possible changes to the truck (F250 4WD CC SWB XLT V10 auto 3.73 265's). Just wondering about the axle. Read all the stuff about ratios, torque, etc. posted on SD IV, but I'm wondering if anybody has real world experience they'd like to share about various axles (towing, acceleration, climbing hills, down shifting). Point of reference, I'm in AZ, so if you're familiar, I'm curious about the I-17 climb from PHX to FLG, or PHX to Payson. If this thing would just get a build date I wouldn't have to keep thinking about it!
  • lilelmolilelmo Member Posts: 144
    bess: I had to smile when I read about the Ranger with 190,000. It reminded me of when I was first married and could only afford an old clapped out Vega GT that I drove to work. It had a sleeved engine, a Holley 2-stage carb, and positrac rear. It also had a great four speed that just loved to shift into 2nd AND 3rd at the same time! :) I crawled under that thing many a time to un jam. But..... it shifted like creamy peanut butter.

    sailboat: Hold the faith. In three days, I'll have been on order for exactly three months for my 2000 V10,CC,4X4,3.73, shortbed,auto,265s,etc. too. I'm starting to wonder if I ought to look on the lots agains, but I really don't think I want a diesel as good as they are. Hang in there.

    (but if YOU cancel, maybe, I'll move up one notch and get off this "clean and unscheduled hook,hmmmmmm.....) Just kidding, just kidding. ;)
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    I realize this is only my opinion and not gospel but here it goes. I always purchase the highest numerical gear ratio available from the factory. I even have changed them on my Mustangs to high 3's on the 5.0 and low 4's on my '97 Cobra. I'm not to concerned about fuel economy, especially on a truck. What I'm concerned about is getting the most performance/acceleration pulling capability etc. that I can have from the factory. If you are now or in the future planning to put taller tires on your truck you effectively lower the gear ratio(numerically) back down anyway. I'll give up a mile or two in gas mileage for the extra performance.
  • jlapointe1jlapointe1 Member Posts: 7
    I may have mislead you, I actually bought a truck that Kallis had on their lot, so I can't provide any input on ordering and delivery time. Regarding the FDAF fee, I didn't dig into it. They had the truck I wanted, and they were very fair with my trade-in against the invoice price, so I bought it right after I test drove it. I payed a little more than I would have if I had ordered it, but they had the only new 250 V-10 I found between Yarmouth and Bangor at the time and they knew it. I still feel that I was treated fairly without nay of the typical car dealer shenanigans.

    Happy trucking,and be patient!
    Jeff L
    P.S. about 20 inches of the white stuff out in the yard this morning, I guess I'll go fire up the snow blower.
  • toro98toro98 Member Posts: 7
    hello. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a durable floor mat for my y2k 250 sc 4x4 XLT superduty. I've had husky liners in my previous truck but didnt' care for the look of them all that much. I have come across something new to me in the world of floor mats. They are called catch-all molded carpeted floor mats. They are made for your veichele and have an O.E. color match. I will probably purchase these because of the look and the durability. Has anyone out there put these in there superduty and if so, do you like them? Thanks.
  • dave84dave84 Member Posts: 75
    I have the Catch-All molded floor mats on my 99.5 F-250 SD. I installed them on April 30 '99, the day I brought my truck home. Yesterday was the first snow we've gotten since then, so I haven't had much slush/snow brought into the truck yet to see how they work in winter weather. But, when my large orange juice flew out of the cupholder in a turn and landed on the passenger side floor mat, it was all contained very nicely, and cleaned up easily. So far I'm a satisfied customer.

    Dave
  • whalercatwhalercat Member Posts: 40
    There is a private individual selling the above configuration asking 27,500. He would probably take 26,500. Options: ESOF, Leather Captain's Chairs, Sliding Rear Window, Auto, Tow Package, Off-Road Package, Cassette/CD, Hitch Receiver, Bedliner. Does this sound like a good value? Mileage is a little high at 20,000, states that it's "like new". I am a little concerned that the 99 5.4L V-8 only had 235 hp. Is it much slower than the 2000 models? Thanks
  • rnewmanrnewman Member Posts: 33
    Regarding the back-up lights. They are a small rectangular lamp approx 1.5" x 4.5" (55 watts each. When mounted to the square tubing of the trail tow receiver they don't stick down bellow the spare tire. So I think they are very well protected. As far as the make or model #, I'll have to check, I think I still have the packaging. But I got them at an Autozone store. They were $24.95. .... newman
  • sunscreensunscreen Member Posts: 22
    I went to the LA Auto Show this weekend, and I saw a lot of cool vehicles. One vehicle that was not cool was the Desert Excursion. It looks like an overgrown Suzuki Amigo. urgh!!!

    The Dodge Power Wagon was a wonderful truck to behold though. Wow!!! It looks great and 780 lb/lbs of torque$#^## Wow wow!!!

    Also, 4Wheel Parts is having a grand-opening at their Southern Cal Redondo Beach Branch this Saturday. The guy at the auto show said that everyhting will be up to %60 off on parts and %50 off on labor. I went there last week and it was huge!
  • sunscreensunscreen Member Posts: 22
    toro98

    Where can you get these? Any pictures to share with us?
  • smithrl1smithrl1 Member Posts: 12
    Put the first tank into my new SD (SC V10 Auto LB 4x2) and ended up with 12.7 MPG. Mostly highway, cruising on 2-lane roads. Slightly better than I expected for the first tank, if indeed it improves once the engine is broken in.
    FYI I drive with a very light foot. Still, I can't wait to get a few more miles on it so I can see how it does when I really floor it!
  • toro98toro98 Member Posts: 7
    For those of you interested in the Catch-All floor mats, I have found a few sites that should provide you with the information that you need to know.
    Site 1: www.sportwing.com
    Site 2: www.protruckoutfitters.com

    The third site is the Rowell's Inc. From this site you can order a Ford catalog which will be sent to you. The catch-all floormats are advertised in the catalog. (They are not shown on the website) The address is www.rowells.com
  • mainecowgirlmainecowgirl Member Posts: 103
    motvptnl- I'm ordering my truck tomorrow 250SD SB 4X4 auto tow pkg. I would be willing to go with the 4.30 axle on my hauling truck, but was told by someone whose opinion I value that the LS eats tires. Is this true in your opinion? Do you have any idea why the 4.30 is only available in a LS?
    Thanks

    jlapointe1- You didn't mislead me don't you worry! You did have my hopes up for a minute, however... You are one lucky fellow to have found one on the lot! I asked Tim whether the FDAF is negotiable and he said no, that Ford sets that price not the dealer. I don't really even want to know if that's the case because like you I feel that I am getting a pretty great deal. I plowed my farm yesterday with my '93 F150 and got a bit sad thinking I was getting rid of it. I get attached to vehicles that have been good to me, and that is one good little plow truck!
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    I don't know why, but if you get the auto tranny, you can get a 3.73LS with the V10, but with the 5sp, you can only get a 4.30LS if you want limitded slip..

    The limited slip does not eat tires like full locking diff (ie detroit locker etc) will.
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    I am getting the f250 sd cc 4x4 v10 sb 5sp. Was told today that I had to go with the 4.30 ls. Wanted ls, but thought that 3.73 would be better fit. Not going to tow a lot, but wanted to make sure that I could sell to people who would. From what I've gathered here the 3.73 would get better fuel and lower rpm on highway. Got the snow and tow package. Will be plowing driveway on new property in colorado. Have been told minute mount is good. Will the 4.30 be beneficial for this, or am I being stupid, and should I go ahead and get the 3.73 and the auto. Really want the 5sp, I'm a stick kinda guy. Any info would be appreciated.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    IMHO, go with the 5sp.. I bet your mileage will be very close with auto + 3.73 vs 5sp + 4.30 just because you have more control of when you shift and the efficiency of the 5sp vs auto tranny itself.

    Resale will be the same. With the 4.30 you can even re-sell to folks who want to do heavy towing or who want to put huge lifts and big rubber on it.
    The only difficult part about re-sale is some say that its hard to re-sell with a stick shift.. I don't agree but we all have our opinions.

    Y2K F250 XLT 4x2 SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS
  • dbarbee1dbarbee1 Member Posts: 13
    I got my build date yeaaaa.I checked the vopc on 12-21 and got build date of 1-31-00. It only took 5 months to get it and a lot of yelling about it. I order the truck on 7-26-99. I order a F250 sd cc v10 4.30 rear end lb now I can hardly wait. Anyone know how long after built I have to wait???
  • sunscreensunscreen Member Posts: 22
    You will have to drive it everyday. There's no point driving something that you don't like. Go for it! Get the 4.1 with the 5sp.

    Do it... :)
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    I like the control of the 5sp better myself. I'm sure that I can get the mpg out of it. My original order was the 5.4l 4.10, but the fleet manager told me that my chances of getting the v10 over the 5.4 with them was just as fast. There not making any more either way, so I had to believe them. Still getting invoice, at Nichols Ford, Fort Worth, TX Either way, towing people wil always go with the psd and auto, wouldn't you?
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    No more changes now. Can't wait. Have DORA from last Friday. They say 10 to 12, allocation is great, will have to see. Going to be a beast!
  • sailboatsailboat Member Posts: 21
    If anyone is interested, there is a F350 XLT CC LWB 4WD V10 w/ tow, camper, power seats, etc. on the lot at Berge Ford in Mesa/Chandler/Gilbert area of AZ! Don't know what they will sell it for, but MSRP was around 35K.
  • porkyporky Member Posts: 83
    Thanks for the reply. Don't have an auto store called "Autozone" around these parts -- so I could really use the brand and part number if you get a chance to look at it on your next trip to the auto part store. Also, call me ignorant, but could a hot wire be attached somewhere between the trucks wire bundle and the light itself ??? With a switch inside the truck, I could turn them on without being in reverse -- (for those sometimes irritating people that like to ride your bumper, after hooking up to the trailer and still needing illumination, or just to see where I've been :] ). Could there be a feedback problem ???? Also any driving/fog light suggestions ?? I've looked at "PIAA" lights -- but that's as far as I have gotten -- LOOK !!!! Good Grief they are expensive !! I'm looking for something that will mount on either side of the front license plate. THANKS for the input !!
    Paul
  • deanwadeanwa Member Posts: 5
    If I understand the warranty book for my '99 superduty correctly, emission parts are covered for 5 years/50,000 miles on any vehicle over 8800 gvw, which includes all superduties. Is this how everybody else reads it too? Are 2000 models the same?
  • 1cjd1cjd Member Posts: 9
    Dwucher, Sailboat and Others: I've read a lot of discussion of axle ratios on this forum in the last 18 months, or so. I would like to put in my two-cents worth, and maybe, put a different spin on the subject.

    I took delivery of a 99 350 supercab,sb v10 5spd 4.30 a year ago. Commute 10 mi in the city to work most of the time and pull a 7000 lb 5th wheel for pleasure. Now 13K mi, no problems and still love the truck.

    I still remember my lessons 40+ years ago when my dad was trying to teach his 14 year-old son how to drive his trucks (pickups, stake-beds through 18 wheelers). His main point regarding shifting, was that the engine and the rest of the drive train was most happy running in the rpm range from 1500 to 2500. Lugging loads below 1500 rpm is very bad; going over 2500 rpm occasionally for more rapid acceleration or pulling uphill was ok. A helpful rule of thumb is that if you can go faster in another gear (either up or down) at the same throttle position, you should shift.

    Nowadays, automatic transmissions have taken much of the fun and skill out shifting, and federally-mandated fuel-economy standards have pushed cars and light trucks to higher axle ratios. However, it really bugs me to drive my wife's car and have it shift back and forth between 3rd and 4th with small speed changes in the city or to have it downshift when gently accelerating out of a curve in the country. It can't be doing the car any good either.

    As you have probably gathered by now, I like the control over engine rpm's that I get from the 5-spd manual. Now the relevance to axle ratios - For my type of driving with the 5 spd, it doesn't make much difference what axle ratio that I have. In the city or in the mountains, I cruise along between 1500 and 2000 rpm using 3rd or 4th gear, depending on the speed that I am trying to maintain. On the highway, I upshift to 5th, but don't have to rev much over 2000 rpm, even at 70 mph. I opted for the 4.30 ratio, mostly to get the ultra-low granny for parking and maneuvering the 5th wheel and normally start-out in 2nd.

    I also have an Explorer with the 3.73 ratio and 5-spd manual. With this vehicle, I start-out in 1st and almost never use 5th, except when I'm cruising over 70 mph on level ground. The point of these two examples is that with the 5 spd, I have an "extra" gear in both, 1st in the Superduty and 5th in the Explorer - While driving, I choose the appropriate gear to maintain 1500 to 2000 rpm while cruising. For the record, I have been getting about 12 mpg in the Superduty, both city and highway - 10 to 12 mpg while towing (mountains included).

    Now some towing-performance stories for Sailboat: I live in Southern California, but have relatives near Florence, Az. Over Christmas, we pulled the 5th wheel from Florence through Phoenix and on up to Flagstaff. Cruised most of the way in 5th and only had to drop to 4th near the top of some of the steeper grades. Don't remember dropping to 3rd for any of them. In California, I am able to easily go up the Grapevine at 55 mph in 4th.
    One of my favorite towing experiences last summer was going up Tioga Pass (backside of Yosimite) at about 35 to 40 mph in 3rd - Some kids in a compact car had to use a turnout to let us through.

    Jim
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    It's already been answered but limited slip does not eat tires. In theory it could actually increase tire wear. Without LS your tire without traction will spin until it finds traction or buries itself. LS will transfer power to the wheel with traction decreasing tire spin.

    While I prefer a 5speed one thing that bugged me on my '89 F350 CC 5speed was when I tried to sell it private party there were no takers. I did get wholesale for it on trade in at the dealer but I was hoping for more. Have no idea if an Auto would have sold quicker but the 5speed was the reason people claimed they weren't interested.
  • jraskejraske Member Posts: 131
    Hey crazy elvis, Haven't heard much about your front end problem lately, did you ever get that problem fixed?
    For every one trying to figure out tire sizes and gear ratios check out http://www.4lo.com they have got lots of useful info.
    John
  • wildside1wildside1 Member Posts: 77
    Took a drive from Oky City to Waco,TX and back over the weekend ... mostly flat roads .... a little over 600 miles roundtrip. Had a big headwind going down, drove around 80 + and - .... got 10.7 MPG. No wind on the way back and drove 60-65 mph for 150 miles and got 14.7 MPG. Drove 75 mph rest of trip and got 13.4. (250 CC V-10 auto 3.73 LS 4X4) Looks like speed sure decides the MPG with the V-10.

    For your info: Talked to a guy that hauls horse trailers all over the country. He had two 99 - 350 PSD duallys with 6 speed. He couldn't keep clutches in them so when he ordered new 2000 models, he got the Automatic tranny with the PSD's.

    For your info II: When talking fuel economy and automatic versus 5-speed, don't forget that the automatics torque converter locks up in 3rd and 4th which makes it just as efficient as the manual shifter when cruising.

    For your info III: To confirm a previous post, my 250 auto V-10 3.73ls 4x4 with 265 tires runs 2000 rpm at 70 mph and 2200 rpm at 75 mph.

    Bess.... Was it you that had the fix for the drink holders? If so, would you mind repeating the steps .... I would sure appreciate it!
    Happy motoring!!!
  • rnewmanrnewman Member Posts: 33
    You certainly could hook up the lights through a separate switch and be able to turn them on at will. I would be lucky enough though to probably blind an off duty cop though with such a temptation. In important consideration is the current draw of these type of lights (similar to fog or driving lights for the front) The pair of lights at 55 watts each draw just under 10 amps together. You don't want to be feeding this from just any wire run to the back of the truck. This is an ivitation to burn up your wiring harness. The backup circuit and running like circuit for the trailer tow harness have a combined rating of 15.5 amps as indicated in the instructions that came with my trailer tow relays and fuse package. So the 10 amp back lites are ok. Running separate wires to a fused switch inside the cab certainly could be done safely. Regarding fog or driving lites. I did the same search and installed the Hella FF100 lights in the lower section of the bumber. There is a nice opening here and plenty of room to mount oval or rectangular shaped lights. I paid $109 for them at a National Auto store. The are nicely protected inside the bumper and the look and work great. Also the Hella's came with a real nice pre made wiring harness with power relay, fuse and illuminated switch. This made installation a breeze.. .....newman
  • baybearbaybear Member Posts: 18
    I have ordered a set of Hella microDE fog lights which will fit in the space beside the license plate bracket.( at least they should if they are the dimensions they claim they are) These are a new model and I should have them in about a week.List price $184.00...ouch. You can check these and other Hella lights/specs. at
    www.hellausa.com.
    To those who responded to my ESOF illumination problem....I pulled the ESOF panel. There is an obvious space for the bulb but there's no wiring
    to it.I don't know if this was a factory slip-up
    or they just don't wire them any longer. I plan to check it with the dealer when I take it back
    for warranty work. (the cupholder was broken from day one) Also I noticed headlight switch panel and symbols do not illuminate when you turn on the lights. The very center of the headlight switch does show a faint glow. Is this the way it is or is this another missing bulb/wiring?(I haven't pulled this panel yet.)
  • todlaketodlake Member Posts: 48
    Your question re: the ESOF panel caused me to look over my whole dash for lighting problems. While my ESOF switch and panel are lighted, my headlamp panel is dark with the same dim illumination on the switch that you mentioned. 99 F250SD XLT CC SB 4X4 V10 Auto 3.73LS.
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    Wildside, the mph impact on mpg is even more noticable with the 4.30 axle ratio since that axle ratio is pulling more rpms at all speeds. Since I'm pulling 2,400 rpms at 70 with the 4.30 and you're pulling 2,200 with the 3.73 at 75, my 70 mph is probably pretty similar to your 80. I average 11.5-12 hwy at 65-70mph.

    99 F-350 SC 4x4 V-10 auto trans 4.30 dually A/T tires (235s for the dually)
  • lilelmolilelmo Member Posts: 144
    Waiting on my dealer to call with the update (I'll check it myself later).Got the word that two others of the same profile ordered a couple of weeks before mine came in last week. Maybe the logjam's moving. The dealer had a nice green 250,V10 CC 4X4,265s,LS,SB,auto.XLT there today with almost the same equipment as the ones you and I have ordered. I looked at it mighty.... hard, but a few items were missing (off road pkg., TT mirrors, CD player,color wasn't right-not red,etc). I'll wait. It's hard, but I'll wait. Hang in.
  • lilelmolilelmo Member Posts: 144
    You didn't cancel did you? I just checked the VOPC and I'm finally scheduled for a build date the week of 2/7. We'll see how that holds.
  • chrispalchrispal Member Posts: 35
    My FDAF was $160 when I ordered in 10/99.

    Interesting to hear about the clutches. I'll see what happens with my PSD/6SPD combo when I get my fifth wheel. I asked a service manager before I ordered which was more reliable (auto or std). He said they had about the same number of problems either way (including clutch problems) and I prefer the standard for everyday driving so that's what I got. (Also, I liked the fact that the six speed was supposed to be heavy duty.)

    Just passed 2500 miles and got 18.5 mpg on my last tank (F350/SC/LB/PSD/6SPD/4WD/3.73/ESOF/SRW). Two trips to Breckenridge and no noticeable loss of power going over Hoosier pass (about 12,500').
  • lewaclewac Member Posts: 151
    Latest update. But first a little "history" for those that are new. Ordered F350 DRW 4X4 CC PSD SWB 6SPD ESOF LARIAT TTMirrors on 9.30.99 with "promised" delivery around 12.15.99. As of today the truck is STILL NOT at the rail head! The truck was built on 11.27.99 but was not shipped until 12.26.99. Nice. A whole frikking month goes by for naught.

    We received a prompt enough schedule & build to subsequently receive the truck basically "on-time" or a few days one way or the other. However; what has occurred since the build has been a complete "disaster"… 7 weeks after the build & still the truck has "allegedly" not arrived at the rail head.

    Crazyelvis… there's TWO rail yards in TAMPA! One of those is the "main" CSX railhead and the other is the Allied shipping railhead (which you probably got involved with) & they are "connected" by rail (not road tractor). Trucks come out of the factory & are FIRST delivered to the CSX railhead & those being shipped via Allied THEN go over to that railhead (a couple of miles apart from what Ken told me). When the truck arrives at the "final" Allied railhead you then get the VOPC message update (a few days later) that the vehicle is "at-the-ramp".

    The dealer now has Ford involved with tracing the whereabouts of the truck (which they SHOULD have done weeks ago). Ford says SOMEONE "signed" for the truck at the CSX railhead on 12.31.99. Guess what? The CSX railhead was shut down that day due to the holiday (we now assume "ghosts" are in the "mix")! So Ford's "story" is obviously bogus. Upon hearing this news Ford's gone back to the "drawing board" (for subsequent design of their latest "excuse"?). They're going to report their "findings" of the trace to the dealership tomorrow & the dealership's going to relay that info to us.

    So MAYBE we'll actually "see" this truck b4 the thing "rusts" away.

    my .02: as Chrispal mentioned; we're a mite curious about the clutch replacements. what driver habits are involved? some people "ride" their brakes & don't even know it. others apply brakes for NO reason whatsoever (watch the red lights on the interstate anytime). and others ride their clutch petal w/o being aware of it. and others "slip" their clutch to hold the load on steep upgrades. well, these practices will fry any clutch b4 it's "time". generally, the less time a clutch spends around the friction point the better. the thing ought to be fully engaged or disengaged. I also neutral the tranny for long standing periods to minimize throw-out bearing wear. this practice has resulted in NEVER having the distasteful opportunity of replacing one (& most of my driving years have been on manuals).
  • bigred2000bigred2000 Member Posts: 20
    The truck I ordered will have the heavy duty
    suspension package. Is there any advantage to
    purchase the camper package instead? From the
    specs, the only difference is the rear stabilizer
    bar and the camper certification. I don't plan on
    having a camper, so is there any advantage to
    paying more for the camper package?
  • ibsmurfibsmurf Member Posts: 24
    I got a copy of the Ford truck accessory catalog today. For anybody that has it, there is a picture of a Super Duty w/ what are probably Ford fog lamps on page 10 (the red one wearing the front end cover). You have to look close to see them. Looks like they mount on either side of the middle hole in the air dam. Just in case anybody is interested....
  • ibsmurfibsmurf Member Posts: 24
    Keep raising he!! about it (and demand a discount for the lost time). :) I'm sure you'll have it one of these days.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    On your fyi II above:
    Even with the torque converter locked, there is more energy drain in the auto tranny vs stickshift, (lots of fluid pressures etc). Although the torque converter lock is a huge improvement.


    Here is my cupholder fix:
    From what I've heard, the SD dash cup holders don't hold drinks all that well. Now that my SD has arrived, I agree that the design could be improved upon..
    It seems like the open sides (on the outside) are the key problem.. I've implemented a very cheap home remedy fix, that can be installed in about 1/2 hour and completly uninstalled in 10 secs if it turns out you don't like the fix.

    Parts needed:
    2 10" x 4mm stretch cords (available at your favorite wal-mart for 1.97 or so. In the auto section)
    1 small piece of wire

    tools needed:
    3/16 in drill bit w/cordless drill (don't worry there are NO visible holes)
    Pair of needlenose pliers

    Procedure:
    Open the cupholder and examine the 2 'jaws I'll call them' that pop up. Each jaw has a slit where a rubberized type of material is inserted. Basically we're going to put a cord that attaches to both jaws, so when the cup holder is 'out', the cord will support the side of the cup especially when cornering. When folded, the jaws collapse down, pulling the cord down nicely out of the way.

    a. Gently pull part of the rubberized material out of the slot. You don't have to pull the whole thing out, just enough to see the slot.
    Do this on the 4 outside corners of the cupholder.

    b. Place the drill bit on the outside most part of the slot and make a rounded hole there.. (I tried to squeeze the cord in the slot without drilling, but it needed to be a tiny bit wider, thus the drilling).
    Do this on all 4 corners.

    c. Take the stretch cord, and cut 1 end off, remove the 2 hooks from the stretch cord and discard them.
    (Note how the hooks were attached to the cord.. We're doing the same thing later on in step f).

    d. Feed the cord from the back side of the jaw closest to the dash out the front of that jaw, then in the front of the opposing jaw and out the back. So the long end of the cord is closest to you..

    e. With the cupholder fully open, I made it so the cord was a straight line but not stretched, and cut the excess part of the cord off. Leave a little extra cord so you can tie it off.

    If you cut the cord too short, it will probably intefere with the jaws automatically opening. If you leave it too long, when the jaws close up on folding, the cord might snag/get pinched in the slide mechanism.


    f. Now I hold the jaws down which allows me to pull the cord farther out the back so its easier to fold/loop the cord back onto itself at the tip and use the wire to hold the loop..

    Repeat this on the other side.

    g. Put the rubberized material back in the slot.

    I wish I had a digital camera so I could show pictures, it would make it
    much easier..

    With mine, the little loop/knot tucks nicely in the little groove in the
    back.

    Removal:
    If for some reason you want to remove this, just cut the cord and slide it out. No one will even know you hacked it..

    I'm not a technical writer by trade, so if I'm not clear, let me know and I'll try to
    explain better.

    I hope this helps
    Roger Bess
  • mainecowgirlmainecowgirl Member Posts: 103
    Risking expulsion from this forum, I am still completely undecided on the 3.73 vs. 4.3 LS differential debate on my 00 250 sd sb v10 4X4 auto which will tow 90% of the time. Will I really be able to tell a dramatic difference in pulling performance between the two if my GVWR of my trailer is 7000#? And can you tell, other than decreased MPG, that you have a 4.3LS axle in day to day driving w/o trailer, i.e. whining, whistling, singing, humming? I am fixating on this, and it is driving me crazy. Thanks for any and all help...even past helper repeats!
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    You are as bad as me about this. I'm getting the 5sp v10 4.30 ls. I will never need it, but I want the 5sp. I've read every post here, and I figure that Ford made the 4.30 for a reason. And from what is sounds like to me, you will be towing, a lot! They should both be fine, I say more is always better than less. Good luck.
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    I thought this was as super duty truck site?
  • jtcjtc Member Posts: 17
    There used to be a web site at //users.erols.com/kdpeterson/recall.html that listed recalls for 2000 SD's. Cannot get to this site anymore. Anyone know anything about it?
    Thanks
  • dbowers2dbowers2 Member Posts: 4
    FYI. I ordered a '00 F350 SC LWB 4X4 V10 5spd with the 3.73ls rear end on 12/29/99 from a local dealer. The Ford website allowed me to build it that way and it was also clearly listed as an option in the dealers' 2000 source book. I also just received my copy of the DORA and it went through fine. I made the dealer double check because I wasn't able to build the same truck on msn carpoint with the 3.73ls. So far the dealer hasn't come back and said he can't do it. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Don't know about that one, but give this a try....http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Member Posts: 262
    After reading all your posts on waiting for your trucks, now I don't feel too bad, I ordered mine on Sept 27th, before Xmas they said I had a build date & a delivery date for Jan3,00. Well the 3rd rolled around, no truck....discovered it wasn't scheduled, no explanation from Ford. I saw the paperwork. So I sit and wait for 00 SD Crew 4xr with a 5.4.
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    www.carwizard.com states that the 3.73 with the v10 requires the automatic transmission. I went over this with my dealer, and was told that it could not be done. I would love to find out if your deal is true. I don't need the 4.30, but will take it if I have to.
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    Sorry, I gave your the wrong information. The 4.30 is a must with the v10 F250 5sp, but according to www.carwizard.com it is available on the F350 v10 5sp. Don't know why.
This discussion has been closed.