I own a '98 K1500 and it's great! The new Silverado's, while designed to be better, are having enough problems (drive-line vibrations, wind noise, clunking noises, etc.), that I'd recommend staying away from them till at least the 2001 models (and even then I'd still wait till mid year and let others be the guinea pigs). If you get a trouble free Silverado, they're better in almost every way than the C/K's. About the only thing better on the C/K's is:
substantually more low-end torque on the 5.7L compared to the new 5.3L (but the 5.3L wins big-time at high rpm's)
better looking (my opinion)
more after-market add-ons available (but that's quickly improving for the new trucks)
If you're talking about the 3/4 ton trucks (and chances are that you are since they don't make 1/2 ton C/K's anymore unless you're considering used), the 6.0L is a HUGE improvement over the 5.7L. You can compare the torque curves at www.gmpowertrain.com . Of course, the 7.4L is available in the 3/4 ton C/K's. That would be my choice for a heavy-duty truck with torque (and the mileage is almost as good as the 6.0L). -powerisfun
Bud Light Dude, What I was trying to say in the other topic area was that I had found a cool jacket online that just happened to be name Silverado. Thought you guys who drove these trucks and seemed to be from the Midwest where its very cold in the winter would like to know about this jacket. Its the kind that also if your like "Tim" from the other topic group whould like to go hunting in. The only thing bad I had to say in that message was about the truck Silverado. I actually really like the Midwest since my sister lives out there in its largest city. OK!
PS: There's a least one thing we agree on naming our Town Hall persona's after beers.
I also own a 98 ext-cab Z-71. I think they are better looking than the new models. I also didn't want to be a guinea pig for these new trucks and after reading of all the problems they are having I'm glad I bought the old style. The new trucks have alot of improvements over the old but untill they fix all of the teething problems I would stick to the old body style.
Amen. What color is your Z71? Is it a GMC or Chevy? At the time I bought mine I had the choice of three that had everything I wanted (basically loaded with everything including the third door, but with no leather). Two were GMC's: one white, one navy blue. The other was a Chevy in torreador red. It was a tough decision, but the white won out. I'm very happy with it. So easy to keep clean and much cooler in the summer than my wife's burgundy Buick. -powerisfun
Even the older body style is not without problems and you still don't get all the new technology that the new models have. Even with a few minor problems that were all fixed, I am much happier with the new models than the older model. The difference is night and day between them.
Anyone whos crys they are glad they waited...due to problems...is pulling their own leg.
yeah...here it may seem like a problem....but remember..people come here when they have problems.
the only combo that seems to give probs is an ext.cab 2WD with 3:42's
1500 Z71's..(which is about 85% of all sales) seem to be fine.
Get a reality check...the new Silverado is solid....especially in 2500.
The old 88 K1500 was great...but do I wish it was back???..hell no!
yeah the 350 had more torque than the 326 (5.3)...but the 5.3 has more HP....although I only know what the 6.0 is really like up close and long term..friggin' kick [non-permissible content removed]!
Out with the old....In with the new Silverado.
get over it man.....quit waiting....the future is here!
The Silvo's in it were built to run on ethenol. But some of the tunes that were performed are a great idea for normal gas power versions boring out the cylinders to 346 ci or more and a 10.6:1 compression ratio, forged crank, vette 'rods,s' steel valves with titanium springs in ported and polished heads and one or two 'chargers or a blower. But if you really want to go fast not quick in your C/K or Silvo follow the ideas of the 'vette race car get a vette engine bore it to 6.0 and follow the rest of their examples like changing the valves among other things. The best truck to do this in would be a Slivo 1500 Reg Cab with 2wd unless you like the 4wd it really doesn't matter with all that power also make sure to slam , change the info gauges and speed governer. There are two great shows that are on Saturday afternoons on this topic HP TV and Trucks both on TNN. -Jim
The GM Powertrain site is filled with good info but one thing that boggles my mind is the use of an iron crank in the Vortech Red Race Engine why not Titanium or Tungsan the strongest metal in the world. I mean it is a race engine!
"Anyone whos crys they are glad they waited...due to problems...is pulling their own leg."
In my case, because of the timing, I ended up paying $5000 less for a similarly equipped C/K over a Silverado/New-Sierra. The only things I really envy about the new trucks is the 4-wheel disk brakes, and the high-end horsepower. But with $5000 that I saved, I can install a set of rear-disk brakes ($700 from JCWhitney) and a supercharger (which I'm planning on doing which would bring my horsepower to 350+) and still have $1000 left over. Plus the C/K's look better, IMO. I'm glad I waited.
"yeah...here it may seem like a problem....but remember..people come here when they have problems."
That's true, but people also come here to brag and just because of their excitement for having gotten a new truck. I don't think it's as negatively biased as you think. Still, every other poster seems to be having some problems. You are correct about the 2500's, though, I've seen very little reports about any problems with them. I think the only one I've seen is the rough idle, but all the vortecs (including my 5.7L) seen to have some problem with that. I don't know if it's really even a problem.
"the only combo that seems to give probs is an ext.cab 2WD with 3:42's"
That's not true. I've seen many others with 4WD and with 3.73's that are still having problems.
The new trucks are better, and the C/K's aren't without their problems, but the gamble seems higher risk in going with the Silverado/Sierra right now. Just my opinion. -powerisfun
Instead of saying "I'm glad I waited", I really meant to say, "I'm glad I didn't get a '99 or '00." I'm not waiting for anything now. My '98 is paid for and is a great truck so I'm keeping it for at least 10 years. -powerisfun
P.S. Don't make this personal by implying that I'm "crying". I don't appreciate that.
Did you read the press releases about the Vortec Red Race Engine for ASA? One of the major reasons behind the switch to this engine is to lower the cost to the race teams! Titanium cranks would be counter productive to say the least. Besides, with target HP around 450, there is no advantage to a titanium crank. A good 4340 forged steel crank is reliable over 700 HP with RPM near 9000, (This is what NASCAR uses). Titanium being lighter would allow an engine to rev higher and faster, and allow more power potential, but if the target power is less than 500 HP, why waste the $$$? Further, tungsten is only used in small amounts in cranks to balance them, when necessary, as it is one of the heaviest metals known to man. So no crank would ever be made out of tungsten, period.
Okay, sorry I misunderstood. No thanks on the beer, though. I can't stand the stuff. Although, I did have a Tequiza the other day at a friend's house and it was surprisingly good. The tequila takes away the usual bitter taste of beer. Still, I'd rather have a Margarita. -powerisfun
I bought a 1999 C/K 1500 4x4 Ext Cab about a year and two months ago. It's a great truck, good ride, good power, but I noticed since it was newer, that it consumes a quart of motor oil every three thousand miles. I contacted the service mangager at my local dealer, and he said this is normal. It only has 12,000 miles. Has anyone else noticed this on their C/K??? I'm planning on trading it in for a Honda Accord, I don't need to be paying $30,000 for a truck that burns oil, so I'll just lower my payment and get a quality vehicle, and as far as a pickup, I'll just buy an old beater for a few thousand, anyway if the beater wastes oil, oh well it's normal right?
You are pretty nieve if you think that your Honda is going to not have any problems.
A quart in 3k miles is normal. The auto industry has said that for years. My past GM trucks have used a slight bit between oil changes, but nothing to complain about. Very similar to your report. All of my trucks have been very reliable and good trucks. They never had oil smoke coming out the tail pipe, but always a little low on oil between changes. A lot of that comes from conventional petroleum based oils. Most of oil consumption on new vehilces is from oil that has broken down in composition, not from poor tolerances of internal parts, etc.
If you want to stop or at least greatly reduce the oil consumption of your truck, use a good synthetic. If you are going to do it, now is much better than later. Synthetics break down much less quickly than conventionals and will be consumed much less. You may even eliminate the oil consumption all together.
You have a normal condition. Your reaction is what drives most people to erroneously blame the auto industry and slam car makes when there really wasn't a real problem. They usually buy something else, only to have some of the same problems with that vehicle and they slam that make also. Eventually they run out of vehicles to go to and they return to the brand that they had in the very beginning. Seen it too many times.
That extra quart of oil could cost $0.69 a month if you drive 36,000 miles a year. That's too high a price to pay!
Me too. I'm going out right now, and trade my '99 oil burning Silverado for an Accord. Heck, most people don't need a truck, and and Accord has 90% of what most owners need, steering wheel, seats, wipers etc. If you need to haul something, well that's what UPS if for.
For Your Info, All my life I've owned japanese cars, and I can put it on my mom that none of them have burnt a miligram of oil, and I've always used the same brand of oil. Not to mention, I'm hard on them little four bangers, and they have always come through. I have nothing against chevy, I own a 72 pickup, which is hot rodded out, and it doesn't even burn a whole quart every 3,000. Of course back in 72 the original owner only paid oh maybe $1,200 for it, not $30,000 the price of an acre of land! And you want me to chance it an try synthetic, and what? Wait till it consumes a quart every 1,000 miles? I'd think about it before I go around calling people "Nieve". You're nieve to get burnt by the GM corporation. They don't care about little old you or me, they're a billion dollar corporation!!!
You are a bitter person, but i've spent many years mechanic-ing, and i'm here to tell you that, the oil consumption is fine. Its not that your engine is crappy or worn out. I've put many miles on GMs, some used oil, some didn't. I've heard the later models use a little oil, and since I just bought a '98, i'm going to find out.
I know a guy who has a old 7.3 diesel Ford. From day 1, it used a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. It has been his business/work truck for 7 years. It now has 210,000 miles on it, and it still uses a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. And running strong.
Sorry you think GM all burned us. I'm satisfied, as well as Quad and BLD.
But i'm laughing at why you bought a truck in the first place if you're replacing it with a car...
Its normal. don't worry about it. That engine will outlast the rest of the truck. just keep an eye on the oil every 2 or 3 weeks.
You are right. None of us know anything about trucks. You "should" trade that junker off for a Honda. That Honda won't have any problems. Certainly won't use any oil. However, please do us a favor. When you trade that junker off, please don't post in here any more. We all like our oil burning GM junk here and it is very disrespectful and sets people wrong when you slam our trucks which you obviously know very little if anything about.
well guys, sorry if I sounded rude, but I decided to keep it, anyway if the engine blows up, I can build one of my "special recipe" small blocks that will outperform the vortec. You're a mechanic, would I have a hard time fitting in a different V-8 to the tranny? I mean like a 454 or a older 350 to a late 90's tranny?
If you want to put good engine in your truck the old 67-79 Pontiac 6.6 or 400 is a very good engine if the current engine blows acorrding to what I have read. It costs $4000 to Rebuild this engine yourself once you have found one but for up to 451 HP & 459 of torque in unsupercharged form one would think it to be worth it. The new issue of the Petersen "Engines" Yearly has the specifics on what you would have to do to start and finish this project on your own, but make sure you consult with a mechanic like "cdean" just in case you make a mistake.
Not sure how an older engine will fit the tranny. Never had to do that. I'd say 454 won't fit. Older 350 probably will fit the tranny, but will take quite a few modifications to fit the rest of the truck (throttle cable, AC, fuel lines, steering, exhaust, all potential pains in the [non-permissible content removed], but do-able.) don't worry, you shouldn't have to.
How does a guy own a "hot-rodded out" 72 Chevy and consider trading his 99 for a Honda Accord? This makes no sense. None. One would assume that there are major differences between a small car to a full-size truck. Would you use the 72 as the "utility" vehicle? A hot-rod? I'm confused.
My 78 F-250 with the 351 has been burning up a quart of oil every 3-4k since Day One. That truck has outlasted many over the years for my firm. I think it was worth the extra 1.25.
In my first post I said I planned on getting an older truck that I could pay off, and get a new Accord, and still save money, good old Rocles knows it all to knock me. As for your Ford, well Fords burn oil period, I've had 60's 283's, and they burned none, so if you want to go and get burnt that it's normal for a New engine to burn oil, well that's due to your ingnorance. If I build an engine and it burns oil, well it's time to pull it and get to the bottom of it, I haven't had one yet. But I don't know about you, Oh, I forgot, you're a ford guy. And duh, no I wouldn't use my non-oil-burning hot rod for utility, if you knew how to read, you would have known, that I planned to buy a junker like your ford,---NOT a chevy of course. And don't knock chevys cuz my new one burns oil, I just got stuck with a lemon. So don't get confused, well you already are, you own a Ford, and you think its NORMAL for an engine to burn oil. Fords don't blow up because they don't have enough power to blow themselves up. I've seen maniacs blow Chevies with push-rods comin out of the hood, and rods, and mains out the oil pan. And they ran great up until they locked up. As for guys like you two, what are you going to tell me next? That if it starts knocking, that's normal too???!!! I wouldn't doubt it!HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA
most older vehicles burned oil when rings weren't properly seated. those vehicles engines only lasted 100,000 miles because the tight seal wore the rings quickly.
FAST FORWARD to 2000. engineering has improved. ring material is MUCH better and longer lasting. today's engines can go up to and over 300K w/o losing compression due to ringwear.
the price paid for this harder longer lasting material is difficult to fully seal and that it couldburn a little oil. some trucks do, some don't, BUT THEY ALL LAST.
For further reference, please reread post# 35. you didn't get a lemon. it will be naive and a poor decision to get rid of your truck for that reason alone. especially since it sounds like you like the truck.
not being condescending, just trying to help. i'm an ex-mechanic, currently a mechanical engineer. trust me, your truck will be fine.
I heard in another post that these new engines had Plastic valve stem seals, and that they failed on a guy at about 69,000 miles, by then my warranty will go out, and I'll be stuck having to do that myself. The guy also said by then that his truck was wasting over a quart every thousand miles. What if that happens to me. I'll probably blow it by then anyway, don't you think? Post#35, So you're tellin me that for $30k you get to keep an eye on the oil!? Maybe I should put a mini-intercom system and listen for knocks too huh?
chevyck1, What's wrong? Did I strike a nerve? I've owned more GM products in 15 years than you'll ever own. So why start a brand war and call ALL Fords junkers? Who is teh know-it-all now? Uh..response? Did you notice that I said I had a 78? Do you think the comparable 350 and 360 of the day were better? Oh...like to hear this one. 283s? Yeah...stop qouting some stupid hot-rod mag--they weren't that great. Back then, people would kill for the Hemis. (whoops--He probably thinks ALL Dodges are crap too!) I also own a personal 89 K-1500 to complement my 98 F-150. That 350 also eats oil--is it a lemon? Any comments? Instead of a stupid brand war, I was merely pointing out in my earlier post that an $1.25 for an oil change is nothing to cry like a girl about. So your truck(as you claim you own) eats oil? So what? What self-respecting Chevy(or junker-ie-Ford/Dodge brand) owner would sell his truck for an ACCORD? Oh sure....you're also getting a junker? Sure--like that wouldn't have problems...LOL!!
with ya all the way Roc! Sounds like one of those Tundra owners that claims superiority, but can't tell anyone specifics of why the Tundra is superior. They can't explain to anyone how their truck's design is beneficial over any other or how and why their Tundra is more reliable. Their comments always go back to something they read in "Consumer Reports" magazine, which is known to be highly biased to the imports. Nothing of real value to prove their points. The comments here sound the same.
Chevyck1 Listen buddy, you need to calm down and actually listen. Your engine will be fine, and nothing is going to blow up. I don't know where you get this stuff from.
GM's are known for their valve guide stems leaking. rarely does the oil usage get as high as 1 qt per 1000.
BUT IF YOU HAD ACTUALLY READ ONE OF MY PREVIOUS POSTS, YOU WOULD REMEMBER THAT I TOLD YOU REPLACING THE VALVE GUIDE SEALS IS AN EASY, CHEAP OPERATION THAT CAN BE PERFORMED BY THE DEALERSHIP, or even the average shade tree mechanic. all you need is a couple of tools and an air compressor.
As Far as post #35, i don't know what kind of owner you are, but I keep an eye on the engine oil of all my items. Lawn mower, boat, car, weed eater, generator, etc. I don't care if the SOB costs $40 or $40,000, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP ON EYE ON THE OIL!!!! an inconspicous leak can occur in anything. if you are too lazy to pop the hood every 2 weeks, you should be taking a cab. that way you don't have to start it the car, put it in gear, use the blinker....
I've just been trying to help you make a good decision, but with your attitude, I'm going to make a new recomendation. Get rid of the truck. Someone else deserves the great GM powertrain more than you.
OK, Tim, I'm through. Think of this as a little relief pitching for you, ball is back in your glove.
Comments
substantually more low-end torque on the 5.7L
compared to the new 5.3L (but the 5.3L wins
big-time at high rpm's)
better looking (my opinion)
more after-market add-ons available (but that's
quickly improving for the new trucks)
Good luck whatever you decide.
-powerisfun
the 6.0L is a HUGE improvement over the 5.7L. You can compare the torque curves at www.gmpowertrain.com . Of course, the 7.4L is available in the 3/4 ton C/K's. That would be my choice for a heavy-duty truck with torque (and the mileage is almost as good as the 6.0L).
-powerisfun
Was this intended as a derogatory statement of some sort, having no merit or were you actually making a good point about something somewhere?
I actually really like the Midwest since my sister lives out there in its largest city. OK!
PS: There's a least one thing we agree on naming our Town Hall persona's after beers.
-powerisfun
Anyone whos crys they are glad they waited...due to problems...is pulling their own leg.
yeah...here it may seem like a problem....but remember..people come here when they have problems.
the only combo that seems to give probs is an ext.cab 2WD with 3:42's
1500 Z71's..(which is about 85% of all sales) seem to be fine.
Get a reality check...the new Silverado is solid....especially in 2500.
The old 88 K1500 was great...but do I wish it was back???..hell no!
yeah the 350 had more torque than the 326 (5.3)...but the 5.3 has more HP....although I only know what the 6.0 is really like up close and long term..friggin' kick [non-permissible content removed]!
Out with the old....In with the new Silverado.
get over it man.....quit waiting....the future is here!
- Tim
But some of the tunes that were performed are a great idea for normal gas power versions boring out the cylinders to 346 ci or more and a 10.6:1 compression ratio, forged crank, vette 'rods,s' steel valves with titanium springs in ported and polished heads and one or two 'chargers or a blower. But if you really want to go fast not quick in your C/K or Silvo follow the ideas of the 'vette race car get a vette engine bore it to 6.0 and follow the rest of their examples like changing the valves among other things. The best truck to do this in would be a Slivo 1500 Reg Cab with 2wd unless you like the 4wd it really doesn't matter with all that power also make sure to slam , change the info gauges and speed governer. There are two great shows that
are on Saturday afternoons on this topic HP TV and Trucks both on TNN.
-Jim
to problems...is pulling their own leg."
In my case, because of the timing, I ended up paying $5000 less for a similarly equipped C/K
over a Silverado/New-Sierra. The only things I really envy about the new trucks is the 4-wheel disk brakes, and the high-end horsepower. But with $5000 that I saved, I can install a set of rear-disk brakes ($700 from JCWhitney) and a supercharger (which I'm planning on doing which would bring my horsepower to 350+) and still have $1000 left over. Plus the C/K's look better, IMO. I'm glad I waited.
"yeah...here it may seem like a problem....but
remember..people come here when they have problems."
That's true, but people also come here to brag and just because of their excitement for having gotten a new truck. I don't think it's as negatively biased as you think. Still, every other poster seems to be having some problems. You are correct about the 2500's, though, I've seen very little reports about any problems with them. I think the only one I've seen is the rough idle, but all the vortecs (including my 5.7L) seen to have some problem with that. I don't know if it's really even a problem.
"the only combo that seems to give probs is an
ext.cab 2WD with 3:42's"
That's not true. I've seen many others with 4WD and with 3.73's that are still having problems.
The new trucks are better, and the C/K's aren't without their problems, but the gamble seems higher risk in going with the Silverado/Sierra right now. Just my opinion.
-powerisfun
Quit crying and get one if you are "waiting" for them to be fixed.
Some 88's had problems too when the switched over...mine didn't.
The whole "don't buy the first model year" is justa crock now days.
Get real...Get A Silverado.
yeah...I like the C/K too... I like the 1970 style Chevy the best...
...But I'm willing to move on..
- Tim
-powerisfun
P.S. Don't make this personal by implying that I'm "crying". I don't appreciate that.
Many people are doing just that...crying about it.
If you take it as a direct comment to you...wasn't meant to be that way....
..Now quit crying!...(just kidding...have a beer)
- Tim
-powerisfun
....I'll take a beer....(a big surprise..eh?)
- Tim
staring slowly across the sky,
we said goodbye....
here is an idea for a song title...
"She chews tobacco...but she won't choose me!"
..or.."Ain't no trash been in my trailer since the day I threw you out!"
I can be a country song writer....I know it!
(Thanks to RD for the songs)
- Tim
-powerisfun
LOL
Rock and Roll baby!!
- Tim
She gave me the finger."
hehehhee
- Tim
....."I hope you are happy now that I'm sad?"..
Me too.
LOL!
LOL!
-powerisfun
OK
I'll stop now...
- Tim
I'm planning on trading it in for a Honda Accord, I don't need to be paying $30,000 for a truck that burns oil, so I'll just lower my payment and get a quality vehicle, and as far as a pickup, I'll just buy an old beater for a few thousand, anyway if the beater wastes oil, oh well it's normal right?
A quart in 3k miles is normal. The auto industry has said that for years. My past GM trucks have used a slight bit between oil changes, but nothing to complain about. Very similar to your report. All of my trucks have been very reliable and good trucks. They never had oil smoke coming out the tail pipe, but always a little low on oil between changes. A lot of that comes from conventional petroleum based oils. Most of oil consumption on new vehilces is from oil that has broken down in composition, not from poor tolerances of internal parts, etc.
If you want to stop or at least greatly reduce the oil consumption of your truck, use a good synthetic. If you are going to do it, now is much better than later. Synthetics break down much less quickly than conventionals and will be consumed much less. You may even eliminate the oil consumption all together.
You have a normal condition. Your reaction is what drives most people to erroneously blame the auto industry and slam car makes when there really wasn't a real problem. They usually buy something else, only to have some of the same problems with that vehicle and they slam that make also. Eventually they run out of vehicles to go to and they return to the brand that they had in the very beginning. Seen it too many times.
Me too. I'm going out right now, and trade my '99 oil burning Silverado for an Accord. Heck, most people don't need a truck, and and Accord has 90% of what most owners need, steering wheel, seats, wipers etc. If you need to haul something, well that's what UPS if for.
(LOL!)
the same brand of oil. Not to mention, I'm hard on them little four bangers, and they have always come through. I have nothing against chevy, I own a 72 pickup, which is hot rodded out, and it doesn't even burn a whole quart every 3,000. Of course back in 72 the original owner only paid oh maybe $1,200 for it, not $30,000 the price of an acre of land! And you want me to chance it an try synthetic, and what? Wait till it consumes a quart every 1,000 miles? I'd think about it before I go around calling people "Nieve".
You're nieve to get burnt by the GM corporation. They don't care about little old you or me, they're a billion dollar corporation!!!
You are a bitter person, but i've spent many years mechanic-ing, and i'm here to tell you that, the oil consumption is fine. Its not that your engine is crappy or worn out. I've put many miles on GMs, some used oil, some didn't. I've heard the later models use a little oil, and since I just bought a '98, i'm going to find out.
I know a guy who has a old 7.3 diesel Ford. From day 1, it used a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. It has been his business/work truck for 7 years. It now has 210,000 miles on it, and it still uses a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. And running strong.
Sorry you think GM all burned us. I'm satisfied, as well as Quad and BLD.
But i'm laughing at why you bought a truck in the first place if you're replacing it with a car...
Its normal. don't worry about it. That engine will outlast the rest of the truck. just keep an eye on the oil every 2 or 3 weeks.
Thank you and again, good luck with that Honda.
One would assume that there are major differences between a small car to a full-size truck. Would you use the 72 as the "utility" vehicle? A hot-rod?
I'm confused.
My 78 F-250 with the 351 has been burning up a quart of oil every 3-4k since Day One. That truck has outlasted many over the years for my firm. I think it was worth the extra 1.25.
Your last post is even more ignorant than your originals. Your batting average sucks.
most older vehicles burned oil when rings weren't properly seated. those vehicles engines only lasted 100,000 miles because the tight seal wore the rings quickly.
FAST FORWARD to 2000. engineering has improved. ring material is MUCH better and longer lasting. today's engines can go up to and over 300K w/o losing compression due to ringwear.
the price paid for this harder longer lasting material is difficult to fully seal and that it couldburn a little oil. some trucks do, some don't, BUT THEY ALL LAST.
For further reference, please reread post# 35. you didn't get a lemon. it will be naive and a poor decision to get rid of your truck for that reason alone. especially since it sounds like you like the truck.
not being condescending, just trying to help. i'm an ex-mechanic, currently a mechanical engineer. trust me, your truck will be fine.
Post#35, So you're tellin me that for $30k you get to keep an eye on the oil!? Maybe I should put a mini-intercom system and listen for knocks too huh?
just keep puttin it in and it'll be alright
What's wrong? Did I strike a nerve? I've owned more GM products in 15 years than you'll ever own. So why start a brand war and call ALL Fords junkers? Who is teh know-it-all now? Uh..response?
Did you notice that I said I had a 78? Do you think the comparable 350 and 360 of the day were better? Oh...like to hear this one. 283s? Yeah...stop qouting some stupid hot-rod mag--they weren't that great. Back then, people would kill for the Hemis. (whoops--He probably thinks ALL Dodges are crap too!)
I also own a personal 89 K-1500 to complement my 98 F-150. That 350 also eats oil--is it a lemon? Any comments?
Instead of a stupid brand war, I was merely pointing out in my earlier post that an $1.25 for an oil change is nothing to cry like a girl about. So your truck(as you claim you own) eats oil? So what? What self-respecting Chevy(or junker-ie-Ford/Dodge brand) owner would sell his truck for an ACCORD? Oh sure....you're also getting a junker? Sure--like that wouldn't have problems...LOL!!
You still do not make sense.
LOL
- Tim
I am through with my soapbox now.
Listen buddy, you need to calm down and actually listen. Your engine will be fine, and nothing is going to blow up. I don't know where you get this stuff from.
GM's are known for their valve guide stems leaking. rarely does the oil usage get as high as 1 qt per 1000.
BUT IF YOU HAD ACTUALLY READ ONE OF MY PREVIOUS POSTS, YOU WOULD REMEMBER THAT I TOLD YOU REPLACING THE VALVE GUIDE SEALS IS AN EASY, CHEAP OPERATION THAT CAN BE PERFORMED BY THE DEALERSHIP, or even the average shade tree mechanic. all you need is a couple of tools and an air compressor.
As Far as post #35, i don't know what kind of owner you are, but I keep an eye on the engine oil of all my items. Lawn mower, boat, car, weed eater, generator, etc. I don't care if the SOB costs $40 or $40,000, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP ON EYE ON THE OIL!!!! an inconspicous leak can occur in anything. if you are too lazy to pop the hood every 2 weeks, you should be taking a cab. that way you don't have to start it the car, put it in gear, use the blinker....
I've just been trying to help you make a good decision, but with your attitude, I'm going to make a new recomendation. Get rid of the truck. Someone else deserves the great GM powertrain more than you.
OK, Tim, I'm through. Think of this as a little relief pitching for you, ball is back in your glove.
I've put my soapbox away a long time ago....especially on useless topics like The Tundra!
OOPS
- Tim