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Mazda Miata Problems and Solutions
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I finally found somone else with the same problem on a Miata Forum and it was the ignition coil. The dealer had to have someone from Mazda headquarters research this and "bingo", they not only replaced the ignition coil at no charge, but they also had to replace the catalytic converter which was damaged by this problem.
(I did have to pay for all the service visits where they couldnt figure it out)
Does anyone know where to find directions on removing the radio and an exploded view of the removal.
Thanks
"how do you line up the timing marks on the crank and cams " .
here is the answer:
go to website http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart2.htm and
go to step #7. Set engine at TDC (Piston #1).
Also see step #16. Install Timing Belt
You may want to read all steps at
http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart2.htm
Lots of helppful photos there to guide through the steps.
Other related helpful steps are at sites
http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart1.htm
http://www.miata.net/garage/timingbelt.html
Good Luck!
I got my car worked with the replaced timing belt and waterpump using the steps in the above websites.
My car is a 2005 Miata Black Cherry Mica I think the chromes would look better than the alloys, but I don't want to make a mistake.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks
newzoomer
Will check out the site.
newzoomer
I called Mazda today and they told me that they would replace the catalytic converter if it was damaged but that I had to pay for the coil replacement.
The cost of the coil is $275 plus tax from the dealer and installation another $100 or more. I can buy the coil for a lot less at a local parts dealer and install it myself but Mazda said that if I do myself they might not warranty the converter.
I told them about this forum and that some of the members had both replaced under the emissions warranty and they denied it.
So what did you do to have them replace both?
Thanks
So...any suggestions on how to get that bugger off the shaft? Will I damage the gear shift if I twist it too much? Would heating it with a torch damage the transmission?
THANKS for any help!!
Heating the metal "collar" with a torch to try to get it off will not damage the transmission...I would be really careful about accidentally burning / melting any bits of interior trim.
Without a CEL, it may be difficult to track the problem down (with regards to a sensor anyway).
Good luck.
By the way, replacing the stock Mazda radio is something I now realize I should have done years ago (it's a '96). Without changing the speakers, it now sounds SOOOOOO much better....never would have believed the improvement. Not like it cost much: I put in a Blaupunkt that I got for $79 at BJ's wholesale club.
At the time I was researching this, I couldn't find anyone else with the problem. I'm told I should have pursued the manufactured to honor this under their warranty. It would help to know that this was a problem with other Miatas.
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoPlusSizing.dos
ALL LIGHTS STILL WORK.
MY PROBLEM IS I TOOK OFF MY BUMPER AND EVERYTHING DOWN TO THE LAST TWO PARTS AND THEY ARE WELDED ON.
I DO NOT KNOW HOW TO GET THEM OFF AND ANOTHER QUESTION IS , IF I GET THEM OFF, WILL I HAVE TO WELD THE NEW ONES BACK ON????????????
THESE LAST TWO PARTS ARE RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR AND THE CONDENSER.
THE TWO PIECES SEEMED TO BE WELDED TO THE CAR ITSELF, NOT TO ANOTHER PART
THANKS PRECIOUSE013
PLEASE HELP
Thanks
Just wondered what knowledgable owners were doing.
Bud
Anyway, I decided to lube the slider pins in the front calipers, as per the instruction in Keith Tanners Projects book, to see if maybe it would help. Well it did help, the vreaking sound is almost totally gone, but I can still hear it. I'll give it a few days to see if it reverts to as bad as it was.
BTW the pads were fine, not worn out, or even close to it.
Any other ideas as to what might be causing this?
The first time I had it towed and it cranked immediately at the dealership. They cleaned the injectors, just to be safe, but 8 months later is doing it again.
I haven't towed it again, because I was hoping it is something simple.....any thoughts?
Chuck
Chuck
Where do you get a resonably priced manual.
Thanks Bud
Trussville Mazda link
Chuck
My favorite maunal is Keith Tanner's Miata Projects book. It has detailed procedures for how to do anything a shade tree mechanic would want to do to improve and/or maintain thier NA or NB Miata. It even has info on advanced stuff like engine swaps. For less than $20 it is a real bargain, trust me. I may end up buying another to replace mine before too long as I've used it som much that much of it is covered in grease, oil and filth...it's getting kind of nasty.
http://www.gweep.net/~sfoskett/miata/nbaudio/head/
Good luck
Thanks
Cappies
double pump the gas to get going. also when i downshift turning onto a street.
there is black soot around my gas cap and in the exhaust pipe. i am having
the fuel filter changed. any thoughts or suggestions as to the problem and the
solution?
thank you
I'm only willing to spend $6000 Cdn max on it. I've decided to get a Miata and believe it will be able to satisfy my desperate need for some fun in driving. I see that I will be only able to get Miatas that are at least 10 years old and over 120,000km with my tight budget. I was browsing online and some of them seemed pretty decent.
I would just like to know, from you proud Miata owners, whether this is a good decision or should I be getting something else like the VW Golf Cabriolet? And if I were to get the Miata, what problems should I pay attention to most when I go for the test drive? In other words, what are some common problems of old Miatas that I should be aware of? I'm especially worried about the roof that may leak when I park the car outside, as well as mechanical problems that will cost me a fortune to fix but will make the car unsafe to drive if left unfixed.
Looking forward to your responses.
When looking at older cars the main thing to look for is not the odometer reading or the age but rather the condition. There are many 99's out there that are in poor condition compared to my 90. There are also many Miata's out there with far fewer miles that are in worse shape mechanically due to neglect or sheer idiocy on the part of previous owners.
You should be able to tell with a cursory inspection whether the car is in good shape or not. See how it drives and look for rattles, jittery ride, rough idling, etc. For the body, look for faded paint/ fresh paint. Check the tires...often the best clue as to the care the previious owner had for the car.
For me, it was important to try to find one from a new car dealer (especially a Mazda dealer). They are better inspectors than I am and, typically, if an older car (like my 90) is in good enough shape to stay on a new car dealer's lot it is a good indication that it is in good shape. You will pay less from a wholesaler's lot but they tend to get the second pickings that new car dealers deem unfit for their lots.
Good luck! The Miata is an incredibly durable little car if it's been taken care of properly.
Here in Canada we can check ar car's history with the VIN number for a small fee. I am not sure, however, if we can check if the car has been in an accident or not. I will go into that later.
I've had some bad experiences previously by getting pre-owned cars at the dealer. I bought a Nissan which looked new and had only 20,000km on it. The car was 3 years old at the time. I found out the fuel consumption was ridiculous for a car its size and when I went to trade-in the car, the inspection revealed that the car's front end had been damaged severely and everthing had been rebuilt before it was sold in the lot. Darn, how I wished I was a mechanic at the time.
But as you said, with careful inspection, buying at the dealer makes sense because they usually buy back cars that are in good condition.