I have a 2000 Miata and periodically it starts and sputters much like above. The check engine light then starts flashing. Then, when I turn it off and then start it again, it seems to run fine. The check engine light is on but not flashing. After a couple of days the light goes out and the car keeps running fine until the next incident a few weeks later. In the last few months I have had the car in to the dealer several tines. The code usually is random misfire. So far the injectors have been cleaned, the plugs and wires replaced, the catalytic converter repalced twice, and the air filter replaced. The last time I had it in, the dealer couldn't find anything wrong. Does anyone have any ideas? I hate to keep starting the car with my fingers crossed.
This happened to my 1999 Miata and it went back and forth to the dealer for weeks. I finally found somone else with the same problem on a Miata Forum and it was the ignition coil. The dealer had to have someone from Mazda headquarters research this and "bingo", they not only replaced the ignition coil at no charge, but they also had to replace the catalytic converter which was damaged by this problem. (I did have to pay for all the service visits where they couldnt figure it out)
I had the exact same problem with my 99 Miata. I had it in the shop several times, had the spark plugs & wires changed, and nothing helped. The Mazda service shop was no help at all. After researching the problem myself Online and reading what other Miata owner's were experiencing, we determined it was the ignition coil. My catalytic converter was also damaged by this problem. The coil and converter were both replaced under the emissions warranty. It has run great since. My bet is that this is definitely your problem. Good Luck!
I am thinking of buying a 1993 miata convertible. 128,000 miles. The air bag light continuously flashes, any ideas what this is, how to fix or ugh..disconnect. Any idea what a fair price is? Some hail damage.
I bought my wife this car it came with an auto alarm. The dealer did not have the buttons and the alarm manufacturer didn't service this model anymore. So I started removing the wiring. The alarm wiring was tied into most of the wires in the harness. I got all the wires out and the harness cleaned up. The only problem now is the stock antenna does not go up or down. There are two antenna cable looking wires coming from behind the radio compartment. I wish I could get the radio out to see the back of the radio.
Does anyone know where to find directions on removing the radio and an exploded view of the removal.
someone asked "how do you line up the timing marks on the crank and cams " . here is the answer: go to website http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart2.htm and go to step #7. Set engine at TDC (Piston #1). Also see step #16. Install Timing Belt
My 2001 miata has an check engine light that stays on when I checked the codes it showed error # 37 That code checks out as a problem dealing with the O2 sensor it says to check either the O2 sensor heater fuse or O2 sensor heater relay. My dealer doesnt know anything about a relay for this car. I tried purchasing a manual for the miata from a local parts shop but they dont show one as being available for a 2001. This car has 2 sensors and I dont know if the code 37 is for the one before the catalytic converter or behind. Has anyone else had this problem.
You may need to get the Mazda shop manual for the info you need. Try to google "Miata shop manual" of "Miata enthusiasts shop manual" and you should be able to find it. Be forewarned...the manual I'm referring to costs substantially more than the Chiltons manual.
Many Miata owners swap out their factory wheels for aftermarket ones. Try Goodwinracing.com and click on the alloy wheels section to veiw thier inventory. They have many of the most popular aftermarket Miata wheels (konig heliums, rota slistreams, even SSR competitions, etc.).
I have been experiencing the same problem with my 2000 Miata. I did a complete tune-up as per the dealer's suggestion. Problem still there, I went back to the dealer and he said that the coil may be the problem. I told him that this forum had indicated that this was the problem. He said that I had to pay for the coil replacement and if the catalytic converter was damaged they would replace it under warranty.
I called Mazda today and they told me that they would replace the catalytic converter if it was damaged but that I had to pay for the coil replacement.
The cost of the coil is $275 plus tax from the dealer and installation another $100 or more. I can buy the coil for a lot less at a local parts dealer and install it myself but Mazda said that if I do myself they might not warranty the converter.
I told them about this forum and that some of the members had both replaced under the emissions warranty and they denied it.
I have a 1992 with 145,000 plus miles. I change the oil every 3K to 4K and a full service every 30K to 40K. Never had mechanical problems and do not look to get ride of it until it passes 200K. Let me know when you are ready to sell.
I just spent $88 for my seconded new electric window cables system. My first attempt at replacing it was disastrous. Undeterred, but with a little less confidence, I am going to attempt to replace it again. Do you have any suggestions on how to thread and screw the cable into the motor with out damaging the plastic cable guide?
I wanted to replace the radio in my wife's '96 Miata (original owner, 29,500 miles). Looked up instructions on net and, following them, tried to remove the gear shift knob (so I could remove the center console, etc.....). The wood part of the shift knob came off right off, but left the round metal piece (about 1 inch flange and about 3/4 inch high) behind on the gear shift shaft. Of course, the shift boot won't fit over the thing. Tried using a vice grips to turn it...won't budge and I was putting some major torque on the shaft.
So...any suggestions on how to get that bugger off the shaft? Will I damage the gear shift if I twist it too much? Would heating it with a torch damage the transmission?
I have a 2001 Miata that will occassionally, but consistently, die while I'm driving. I'll just stop running. I'll sit by the side of the road for about 5 minutes and then it'll just start up again as if it hadn't died. When I try to turn it over during that 5 minutes, there's nothing or a little sputter. I thought it was because I was running the air conditioner on long trips, but that wasn't it because it dies even when I don't have the air conditioner on. The mechanics say they can't fix the problem unless it dies while they are test driving it, which is unlikely to happen. They won't even run a diagnostic check without me paying $125 and even then they say if it's a computer problem they won't be able to determine the problem unless it dies while they are checking it out. Has anyone else had this kind of problem with their miata?
Hmmm...did the wooden part of the knob pull off, or did you manage to unscrew it? Either way, you may want to try some penetrating lube. Just spray it around the shaft and wait a few hours and give it another go.
Heating the metal "collar" with a torch to try to get it off will not damage the transmission...I would be really careful about accidentally burning / melting any bits of interior trim.
It's got about 70K miles on it, so it's not under warranty anymore. I've had all the routine maintenance done and they've never found anything irregular. A mechanic friend said it might be a sensor or something, but unless it's at the shop when it dies, nobody seems to know what the problem could be.
I would suggest checking out the fuel filter (doubtful the problem), the coil packs, the catalytic converter and its various sensors. Then perhaps check out the fuel injection system and fuel-air sensors.
Without a CEL, it may be difficult to track the problem down (with regards to a sensor anyway).
I used some WD-40 and it did the trick! Thanks again for the suggestion.
By the way, replacing the stock Mazda radio is something I now realize I should have done years ago (it's a '96). Without changing the speakers, it now sounds SOOOOOO much better....never would have believed the improvement. Not like it cost much: I put in a Blaupunkt that I got for $79 at BJ's wholesale club.
I just had a GPS tracking system installed under the dash in my 94 miata. It has an automatic transmission and the hold light flashes when driving. I took it back to the installer of the GPS who said that the flashing of the hold button means that the transmission is going out. Is this true? It never did it before and the transmission seems to be shifting smoothly. Any suggestions? The tracking device was installed under the dash and I also had him install the rear defroster at the same time. What should I look for if the transmission is going out?
I have a 99 miata with a manual 5 speed transmission. Suddenly, I can not get it to shift into 5th gear. No grinding or other sounds, it is as if the 5th gear doesn't exist. All the other gears are operating just fine. Has anybody else run into this problem?
This happened to my 2001 Miata last summer. It had less than 36,000 miles but was three weeks out of warranty period. The dealership told me the same thing. They would not be able to locate the problem unless it happened when it was hooked up to the computer. I took the car to a certified mechanic and this was the process: "unable to duplicate proglem while hooked up to computer"; tuned engine; replaced spark plugs & fuel filter; flushed fuel injectors = $386. Still had problem with car stalling & brought back to shop two weeks later. Hooked up to computer and worked with for day and half. Diagnosed & replaced CAM Sensor & Crank Sensor = $477. At the time I was researching this, I couldn't find anyone else with the problem. I'm told I should have pursued the manufactured to honor this under their warranty. It would help to know that this was a problem with other Miatas.
I've replaced the factory 14x6" wheels with 17x7" wheels. But be careful you have to step down the profile of the tire as you increase your tire width to insure the same rolling diameter, for instance the 14" wheels had P185/60R14 Goodyear American Eagles- I stepped up to P205/40/ZR17 Pirelli P-Zero Neros. If rolling diameter confuses you go to this web site.... http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoPlusSizing.dos
I WAS HIT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE BUMPER ANDSIDE LIGHTS. ALL LIGHTS STILL WORK. MY PROBLEM IS I TOOK OFF MY BUMPER AND EVERYTHING DOWN TO THE LAST TWO PARTS AND THEY ARE WELDED ON. I DO NOT KNOW HOW TO GET THEM OFF AND ANOTHER QUESTION IS , IF I GET THEM OFF, WILL I HAVE TO WELD THE NEW ONES BACK ON???????????? THESE LAST TWO PARTS ARE RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR AND THE CONDENSER. THE TWO PIECES SEEMED TO BE WELDED TO THE CAR ITSELF, NOT TO ANOTHER PART THANKS PRECIOUSE013 PLEASE HELP
I have similar problem with my MX5. It reminds me of an identical scenario I had with a Jensen Healey some years ago. I think that (as with the Jensen) the breather to the fuel tank is blocked, this meant that the pump couldn't pull fuel from the tank because of the tanks apparrent vaccuum. Resting for 10 or so mins meant that air some how re-entered the tank and vaccuum was lost. When i remove the fuel filler on the MX5 there is the woosh of air entering. I suspect this to be the problem. I dont know enough of the MX5 workings to know where to clear the breather. Help?
Look on the rear inside part of the drivers side door (where the door meets the jamb). There should be a label stating the recommended pressure. FYI, my 90 says to inflate to 27 psi.
Well I stomped on the gas to avoid a deer one day and since then the brakes have a "Creaking" sound when ever I use them. The sound is clearly coming from the drivers side front brake. I felt no peddle shuddering so I don't figure it to be a warpped rotor.
Anyway, I decided to lube the slider pins in the front calipers, as per the instruction in Keith Tanners Projects book, to see if maybe it would help. Well it did help, the vreaking sound is almost totally gone, but I can still hear it. I'll give it a few days to see if it reverts to as bad as it was.
BTW the pads were fine, not worn out, or even close to it.
Has anyone else had trouble with the Miata 10 year anniversary edition not firing. Twice it has set for a week and upon my return it will not fire to complete the crank. The first time I had it towed and it cranked immediately at the dealership. They cleaned the injectors, just to be safe, but 8 months later is doing it again. I haven't towed it again, because I was hoping it is something simple.....any thoughts?
I have a 99 Miata that has the check engine light on contineously. The computer reads excessive EGR Flow. I've ordered both oxygen censors but am not sure this is what I need. Have any of you had the same problems? I am unable to get the car inspected due to this problem.
I have a 97 Miata. Just today it started making a this HORRIBLE screeching sound. Not all the time... but I think I have it localized to when the clutch is in, but I have it in a gear. No screeching in neutral with clutch in or out. A friend thinks it might just be that the clutch is out of adjustment, and almost engaging even though the clutch is in. Has anyone ever experienced this? Is it something I can readjust on my own, or do I need to plan a trip to the dealership? I'm planning to run in a road rally this weekend with my local Miata club, so am desperate to get it fixed! Thanks.
It seems like tire shops are always telling people to over inflate their tires. 30 or 35 PSI is way too much for a Miata. Your car will ride like a tank with those pressures! I have 205-50-15's on mine & I find that 27 PSI works well for me. Every type of tire is different & your tires may like a little more pressure or a little less. 26 or 27 is a good starting point.
If your noise is when the clutch peddle is in or depressed I'd bet it's the clutch throwout bearing. Bad news is that to fix it the transmission has to come out. If you're going to fix the throwout bearing you might as well have a new clutch installed at the same time. Your car could go many miles making that noise, if you can stand the racket.
I've bought quite a few parts including a factory manual from Trussville Mazda. Good prices & great service. My local dealer is very expensive & carries few parts. These guys beat the locals prices & ship fast. I'm not affiliated in any way, just a satisfied customer.
I've used the Haynes manual some. Just go to Advance Auto Parts, they carry them.
My favorite maunal is Keith Tanner's Miata Projects book. It has detailed procedures for how to do anything a shade tree mechanic would want to do to improve and/or maintain thier NA or NB Miata. It even has info on advanced stuff like engine swaps. For less than $20 it is a real bargain, trust me. I may end up buying another to replace mine before too long as I've used it som much that much of it is covered in grease, oil and filth...it's getting kind of nasty.
My check engine light on my 99 Mazda Miata just started coming on. I took it to auto zone and it read the same code as yours; EGR valve, which costs 289.99 there. I am hesitant to replace it without further checking at that price. Have you corrected yours yet? What do you replace? Thanks Cappies
hello. i have a 90 miata with 67,000 miles. whenever i start to drive i have to double pump the gas to get going. also when i downshift turning onto a street. there is black soot around my gas cap and in the exhaust pipe. i am having the fuel filter changed. any thoughts or suggestions as to the problem and the solution?
If it is off, gears shift easily... when you start it, it stays in neutral. It just happened for the first time this morning and still can't get it to work. Suggestions?
I currently drive a 2003 Toyota Camry SE V6 shared by my family, so you get an idea of the fun I'm getting out of it. Well, I would like to get a great summer car that's more fun to drive than a Camry. Oh wait, what I meant was, WAY more fun than a Camry!
I'm only willing to spend $6000 Cdn max on it. I've decided to get a Miata and believe it will be able to satisfy my desperate need for some fun in driving. I see that I will be only able to get Miatas that are at least 10 years old and over 120,000km with my tight budget. I was browsing online and some of them seemed pretty decent.
I would just like to know, from you proud Miata owners, whether this is a good decision or should I be getting something else like the VW Golf Cabriolet? And if I were to get the Miata, what problems should I pay attention to most when I go for the test drive? In other words, what are some common problems of old Miatas that I should be aware of? I'm especially worried about the roof that may leak when I park the car outside, as well as mechanical problems that will cost me a fortune to fix but will make the car unsafe to drive if left unfixed.
Well I am/was in the same situation as you, although I later ditched my Toyota b/c I never drove it and stuck with my "old" Miata. I got a 1990 with about 124,000 miles on it. It needed a new soft top but other than that it was in good condition.
When looking at older cars the main thing to look for is not the odometer reading or the age but rather the condition. There are many 99's out there that are in poor condition compared to my 90. There are also many Miata's out there with far fewer miles that are in worse shape mechanically due to neglect or sheer idiocy on the part of previous owners.
You should be able to tell with a cursory inspection whether the car is in good shape or not. See how it drives and look for rattles, jittery ride, rough idling, etc. For the body, look for faded paint/ fresh paint. Check the tires...often the best clue as to the care the previious owner had for the car.
For me, it was important to try to find one from a new car dealer (especially a Mazda dealer). They are better inspectors than I am and, typically, if an older car (like my 90) is in good enough shape to stay on a new car dealer's lot it is a good indication that it is in good shape. You will pay less from a wholesaler's lot but they tend to get the second pickings that new car dealers deem unfit for their lots.
Good luck! The Miata is an incredibly durable little car if it's been taken care of properly.
Thank you for your advice. I will definitely pay attention to details when I go for the test drive. Glad to hear that you're enjoying your Miata. And it is glad to know that it is possible to get an old Miata in good condition.
Here in Canada we can check ar car's history with the VIN number for a small fee. I am not sure, however, if we can check if the car has been in an accident or not. I will go into that later.
I've had some bad experiences previously by getting pre-owned cars at the dealer. I bought a Nissan which looked new and had only 20,000km on it. The car was 3 years old at the time. I found out the fuel consumption was ridiculous for a car its size and when I went to trade-in the car, the inspection revealed that the car's front end had been damaged severely and everthing had been rebuilt before it was sold in the lot. Darn, how I wished I was a mechanic at the time.
But as you said, with careful inspection, buying at the dealer makes sense because they usually buy back cars that are in good condition.
Comments
I finally found somone else with the same problem on a Miata Forum and it was the ignition coil. The dealer had to have someone from Mazda headquarters research this and "bingo", they not only replaced the ignition coil at no charge, but they also had to replace the catalytic converter which was damaged by this problem.
(I did have to pay for all the service visits where they couldnt figure it out)
Does anyone know where to find directions on removing the radio and an exploded view of the removal.
Thanks
"how do you line up the timing marks on the crank and cams " .
here is the answer:
go to website http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart2.htm and
go to step #7. Set engine at TDC (Piston #1).
Also see step #16. Install Timing Belt
You may want to read all steps at
http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart2.htm
Lots of helppful photos there to guide through the steps.
Other related helpful steps are at sites
http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart1.htm
http://www.miata.net/garage/timingbelt.html
Good Luck!
I got my car worked with the replaced timing belt and waterpump using the steps in the above websites.
My car is a 2005 Miata Black Cherry Mica I think the chromes would look better than the alloys, but I don't want to make a mistake.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks
newzoomer
Will check out the site.
newzoomer
I called Mazda today and they told me that they would replace the catalytic converter if it was damaged but that I had to pay for the coil replacement.
The cost of the coil is $275 plus tax from the dealer and installation another $100 or more. I can buy the coil for a lot less at a local parts dealer and install it myself but Mazda said that if I do myself they might not warranty the converter.
I told them about this forum and that some of the members had both replaced under the emissions warranty and they denied it.
So what did you do to have them replace both?
Thanks
So...any suggestions on how to get that bugger off the shaft? Will I damage the gear shift if I twist it too much? Would heating it with a torch damage the transmission?
THANKS for any help!!
Heating the metal "collar" with a torch to try to get it off will not damage the transmission...I would be really careful about accidentally burning / melting any bits of interior trim.
Without a CEL, it may be difficult to track the problem down (with regards to a sensor anyway).
Good luck.
By the way, replacing the stock Mazda radio is something I now realize I should have done years ago (it's a '96). Without changing the speakers, it now sounds SOOOOOO much better....never would have believed the improvement. Not like it cost much: I put in a Blaupunkt that I got for $79 at BJ's wholesale club.
At the time I was researching this, I couldn't find anyone else with the problem. I'm told I should have pursued the manufactured to honor this under their warranty. It would help to know that this was a problem with other Miatas.
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoPlusSizing.dos
ALL LIGHTS STILL WORK.
MY PROBLEM IS I TOOK OFF MY BUMPER AND EVERYTHING DOWN TO THE LAST TWO PARTS AND THEY ARE WELDED ON.
I DO NOT KNOW HOW TO GET THEM OFF AND ANOTHER QUESTION IS , IF I GET THEM OFF, WILL I HAVE TO WELD THE NEW ONES BACK ON????????????
THESE LAST TWO PARTS ARE RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR AND THE CONDENSER.
THE TWO PIECES SEEMED TO BE WELDED TO THE CAR ITSELF, NOT TO ANOTHER PART
THANKS PRECIOUSE013
PLEASE HELP
Thanks
Just wondered what knowledgable owners were doing.
Bud
Anyway, I decided to lube the slider pins in the front calipers, as per the instruction in Keith Tanners Projects book, to see if maybe it would help. Well it did help, the vreaking sound is almost totally gone, but I can still hear it. I'll give it a few days to see if it reverts to as bad as it was.
BTW the pads were fine, not worn out, or even close to it.
Any other ideas as to what might be causing this?
The first time I had it towed and it cranked immediately at the dealership. They cleaned the injectors, just to be safe, but 8 months later is doing it again.
I haven't towed it again, because I was hoping it is something simple.....any thoughts?
Chuck
Chuck
Where do you get a resonably priced manual.
Thanks Bud
Trussville Mazda link
Chuck
My favorite maunal is Keith Tanner's Miata Projects book. It has detailed procedures for how to do anything a shade tree mechanic would want to do to improve and/or maintain thier NA or NB Miata. It even has info on advanced stuff like engine swaps. For less than $20 it is a real bargain, trust me. I may end up buying another to replace mine before too long as I've used it som much that much of it is covered in grease, oil and filth...it's getting kind of nasty.
http://www.gweep.net/~sfoskett/miata/nbaudio/head/
Good luck
Thanks
Cappies
double pump the gas to get going. also when i downshift turning onto a street.
there is black soot around my gas cap and in the exhaust pipe. i am having
the fuel filter changed. any thoughts or suggestions as to the problem and the
solution?
thank you
I'm only willing to spend $6000 Cdn max on it. I've decided to get a Miata and believe it will be able to satisfy my desperate need for some fun in driving. I see that I will be only able to get Miatas that are at least 10 years old and over 120,000km with my tight budget. I was browsing online and some of them seemed pretty decent.
I would just like to know, from you proud Miata owners, whether this is a good decision or should I be getting something else like the VW Golf Cabriolet? And if I were to get the Miata, what problems should I pay attention to most when I go for the test drive? In other words, what are some common problems of old Miatas that I should be aware of? I'm especially worried about the roof that may leak when I park the car outside, as well as mechanical problems that will cost me a fortune to fix but will make the car unsafe to drive if left unfixed.
Looking forward to your responses.
When looking at older cars the main thing to look for is not the odometer reading or the age but rather the condition. There are many 99's out there that are in poor condition compared to my 90. There are also many Miata's out there with far fewer miles that are in worse shape mechanically due to neglect or sheer idiocy on the part of previous owners.
You should be able to tell with a cursory inspection whether the car is in good shape or not. See how it drives and look for rattles, jittery ride, rough idling, etc. For the body, look for faded paint/ fresh paint. Check the tires...often the best clue as to the care the previious owner had for the car.
For me, it was important to try to find one from a new car dealer (especially a Mazda dealer). They are better inspectors than I am and, typically, if an older car (like my 90) is in good enough shape to stay on a new car dealer's lot it is a good indication that it is in good shape. You will pay less from a wholesaler's lot but they tend to get the second pickings that new car dealers deem unfit for their lots.
Good luck! The Miata is an incredibly durable little car if it's been taken care of properly.
Here in Canada we can check ar car's history with the VIN number for a small fee. I am not sure, however, if we can check if the car has been in an accident or not. I will go into that later.
I've had some bad experiences previously by getting pre-owned cars at the dealer. I bought a Nissan which looked new and had only 20,000km on it. The car was 3 years old at the time. I found out the fuel consumption was ridiculous for a car its size and when I went to trade-in the car, the inspection revealed that the car's front end had been damaged severely and everthing had been rebuilt before it was sold in the lot. Darn, how I wished I was a mechanic at the time.
But as you said, with careful inspection, buying at the dealer makes sense because they usually buy back cars that are in good condition.