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Mazda Miata Problems and Solutions
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One alternative is to buy a top and frame (together) from a 1999 - 2005 model from a salvage yard. With the top already attached to the frame, unbolting the old one and bolting in the new one is a relatively simple task. This will give you the glass rear window. Quite often, this option is cheaper than a new glass-window top that you still have to install on your existing frame.
10 years is about right, I replaced mine just before it turned 11.
And yes, you can get a glass window. There are many choices for tops, actually, the hard part is choosing an installer. A lot of them will only work with tops that they are familiar with.
So I'd shop that way, call installers in your area, looks under "Automobile - Upholstery" in the yellow pages. I got quotes for $700 to $1200, depending on if it was a vinyl or glass windows, and if it had a rear defroster (not really necessary I've found).
Bolting the rain rail is very, very hard. It took me one full day to remove the old top, one full day to install the new one. I was sore for days, even bruised up. I think for a beginner it's best to hire an upholstery shop to install it.
I don't think I'd do it again, put it that way. If you feel very brave, try to find a local Miata owner that is willing to help you out that has done this before. But it's not easy labor by any means, and if you screw up you might end up tearing or ruining a $460 top.
Good luck.
-juice
To install a new window, you gotta take the top halfway off, including the rain rail. It's a lot of work.
I had a broken rear glass window, and even with a brand new top I found it was not worth replacing the glass alone. It was only something like $90 less than a whole new top for the glass + rain rail pre-installed. And again, not much labor saved either.
I really suggest you replace both. The $90 you save won't seem worth it in 3 months when the top starts cracking and leaking.
10 years is par for the course, tops don't last much longer than that.
-juice
OK, so here are some options, they all come with rain rails because customers were ruining tops by doing this wrong:
$365 - Vinyl, zippered, plastic window
$449 - Vinyl, No zipper, glass window
$495 - Vinyl, zippered, glass window
Glass only replacement is $359! Ouch.
As you can see, replacing the glass section alone is totally not worth it. You'd be much better off with a whole new top and a vinyl window for about the same price. Or spend just a little more and get the no-zipper top, which is what I did.
The no-zipper basically converts your top to work like a '99. The back does not open seperately, but when you fold the top down, the glass slides out of the way automatically. I'm happy with it, since it takes less time to take down.
Warning - the work is hard to do, it took me two days, one to remove, one to install the new one. Get help, preferably from someone who has done it before, or get it professionally installed.
Good luck.
-juice
-juice
-juice
-juice
Also check transmission mounts and engine mounts.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/sb05-001.03.html
-juice
-juice
Do your headlights go off when you switch off the ignition? If so, I'd look there next.
If the clutch pedal has slack, goes stiff and then soft, and the fluid level is low, it could just be that. It was for me.
Got a kit, $10.74 plus a little brake fluid later my clutch is still fine. The fix was 2 years ago and my clutch is OK.
Registration is required to view this photo album, but if you have those symptoms it's worth it:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=4289876491
Pic 1: how I bled the system
pic 2: old and new slave cylinder contents
pic 3: hydraulice lines once slave cylinder was removed
pic 4: old slave cylinder (rubber gasket was spent)
pic 5: turkey baster used to remove brake fluid from clutch master cylinder reservoir
If you can bleed brakes, you can replace a clutch slave. It's pretty easy, though access is tight and you need a 2nd person to pump the clutch pedal when you bleed it.
-juice
The previous owner would have been foolish not to have it in the car somewhere - if so he could not have changed a flat!
-juice
Any and all help is appreciated.
We found that Mazda OE parts were pretty pricey, so our bills for the old 626 piled up quick. Wife had all the work done at Gaithersburg Mazda.
I work on the Miata myself, though.
-juice
As your car ages, you have to step UP the maintenance, and not just sit back and cross your fingers.
For instance, if you haven't done any of these recently on your Miata, get to it:
spark plug wires
check all drive belts and hoses
flush cooling system
flush brake system and clutch hydraulics
inspect front suspension for wear (alignment shop can do this).
Inspect for coolant and oil leaks
How old is your battery?
AAA tow truck drivers report that most breakdowns are from very minor items that are overlooked in normal maintenance.
spark plug wires - absolutely, stock lasts 30k
check all drive belts and hoses - replace worn ones
flush cooling system
flush brake system and clutch hydraulics - clutch uses same fluid
inspect front suspension for wear (alignment shop can do this) - consider shocks if it rebounds more than once
Inspect for coolant and oil leaks
I'd add a few:
* transmission oil (75w90)
* rear differential oil (75w90)
* fuel filter
* PCV Valve
* O2 Sensor
This is in addition to the usual stuff, oil change, air filter, things like that.
I did most of that when I bought my '93 at 28k miles, and I'm about to do it all again now when I hit 60k.
It's not so much my mileage, it's the age, on mine.
I did not spend that much to do myself, FWIW. I don't think it cost me $200 even, less than half of one car payment.
-juice
You would be my absolute hero; my knight in shining armour if you had any idea how to do this on a 1992 Mazda 929. I recently replaced the battery, and I even know the code, but for some reason "Err" stays up, and I was told to shell out $85 dollars at the dealership. It's the factory radio/cassette/cd changer combo. I'm having another problem with the radio, but as for right now I can't even operate it. Please, please, if you have any idea how to do the same thing you noted here back in October on a 1992 Mazda 929, you'd be the love of my life - or at least my hero.
Cheers,
Inez
When you connect the battery on my Forester, I have to lock and unlock the doors with my keyless several times before the lights stop flashing. Must be something similar with your alarm?
Just a guess.
-juice
On my P5 when I changed the battery, I had to use the keyless alarm to lock and unlock before the car would start. The radio worked fine though... well, I had to reset the presets.
I just did the rear pads on my '93, there was an adjustment screw to release the rear parking brake and then adjust it. Not sure if it's still used for the '04s, but my money's on that being the issue if it still works that way.
-juice
You might just have a worn out clutch, though. It's 15 years old now. That's probably it.
-juice
-juice