Nissan 350Z and 370Z engine and exterior tuneups

louiloui Member Posts: 4
edited April 2014 in Nissan
Hello, im Allan
i just got a 350z 2003 for my first is black on black...... and i really wanted to sup this car up.. i want headers, intake,,(loud, nice puring)exhaust, coolers, HID lights, lambo doors, and more stuff done to my enigne....
i was wondering off all you good people of edmunds could recommend,,what parts, the top name brand,, and the order in which i would install the parts......also i was thinkin of lamborghini doors,,which pop out and go directly vertical instead of those other brands that go vertical/horizantal...which would inflict in me parking...

so please help me and tell me wat you thiink

thank yall


  • 350matz350matz Member Posts: 3
    I have put in a Injen cold air intake and an injen true duel ses exhaust and i love it i have noticed a significant power gain in the 3500 + rpm range i am considering header but at this point i do not even know if it pays cause u are not goin to get that much more power from what i have herd and after the exhaust its pretty load but if u did i would go for brola.
  • 350matz350matz Member Posts: 3
    Does any one know any thing on Proformance ecu's and what chips are good for the Z also if they make any where you can change the profomance chariteristics in the car with out using a laptop?
  • turbodude84turbodude84 Member Posts: 26
    I have heard that there is turbo kits out there for that car and it makes about 390 or so HP... they are around 5600 dollars or so

    Later Derek
  • louiloui Member Posts: 4
    naaa im not up to the turbo ye...and before i get a turbo i have to put everything i want in the engine before i put that bad boy on

    but what brand do yall think would give me the most hp and also for the exhaust would be the loudest....and for the intake...which one is the brand(iforgot the name) that when your car switches gear, its makes it sound like you have a turbo

    and what do yall think about fuel injectors and headers, along with the basic i want exhaust, and intake
    what else? and what brand,,,and what order should they be installed in
  • louiloui Member Posts: 4
    well so far it seems like ima adding:
    Borla Stainless Steel True Dual Exhaust
    Injen cold air intake (not that sure on this intake tho any suggesting?)
    Crawford Headers

    im still looking for a good intercooler....fuel injectors....and a good set of lambo doors
    so im still lookin for a good coolers

    and maybe somethign else i dnt know about i need advice and suggestions
  • 350matz350matz Member Posts: 3
    why would u put an itercooler in u have no need for one and fuel injector at this point is a waist of $$$ get springs instead it will make a would of difference in handling
  • louiloui Member Posts: 4
    ok heres my final list for the engine,,,but i still need advice on which lambo doors..indash...and any other suggestions?...
    bora dual exhaust
    greedy or AEM intake
    greddy headers,downpipe, and when i got enough turbokti with injectors
    fuel managment system
    boost controller
    and blow off valve
  • pre452pre452 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 350Z. I already have the cold air intake which is giving me about 11 more HP. I was wondering if there was anything else I could do besides something like a turbo kit, that would increase my HP and possibly my MPG. I have heard a few people mention chips, but don't know exactly what that will do or how much they cost. If someone could help me out to figure out some things to do that are on the less expensive end, that would be great.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,600
    There is really nothing that will increase your MPG. Some may CLAIM your mileage will go up, but its highly unlikely. I used to get 25 mpg average in my Z with about 70% highway driving and a very heavy foot the other 30%. I thought that was just phenomenal mileage.

    Anyway, have you checked out the intake plenum replacements? They used to have a spacer you could buy that improved fuel delivery, but I heard from an owner just the other weekend that there is now a complete replacement plenum that will work with the stock shock brace.

    What have you done in the tire department? The stock Z tires would go up in smoke on the stock engine output, so upgrading to better tires would help launches the most.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A turbo would consume more gas, but you'd definitely get more HP.

    Some chips work, some don't. It really depends on the reputation of the vendor. I myself wouldn't install a chip unless you could speak with another 350Z owner who did it and has evidence that it worked (that is, a dyno slip).

    Better fuel mileage and more power are incompatible concepts IMO.
  • fochfoch Member Posts: 4
    I have a stock 2005 350Z and want to improve performance. There are a lot of suggestions out there but I want to know if someone has come across an improvement that offered surprising results (HP, cornering, etc.) at an affordable price.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,600
    WElll... depends on how you define "surprising" and "affordable."

    Actual dyno sheets have shown the popcharger can net 10hp. For the money, I'd say that's a deal.

    The biggest bang, of course, is the turbo, but it is anything but cheap.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tarnowskitarnowski Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me how the "Nissan" 350Z hood and trunk emblems are secured to the body and how to remove them?
  • zbartzbart Member Posts: 1
    I used wd-40. Work it into and around emblem backside with a small plastic knife, I even have used a metal one coated with vaseline (careful). Take your time, once the emblem begins to release you can then pull it loose and apply the wd-40 behind it as you go. After the emblem is off just work the residue off with the remaining wd-40. Takes time but I to like the new symbols better. zbart
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Some people have used dental floss or lightweight monofilament fishing line with good results. Softening the adhesive a little with a heat gun can also help, but careful with the heat. Goo-gone is another option for getting rid of the residue.
  • 04ztouring04ztouring Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 350z with popcharger, testpipes and injen ses exhaust on the way...alng wit some other stuff...but my good friends 350z is turboed and nothing but problems and headaches.....supercharging is diff better considering doing it evenutally...not to mention more reliable.]

    LAtr joe
  • vservvserv Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for a billet fuel door for a 2004 coupe. Anyone know where I can find one?

  • mahoffmahoff Member Posts: 1
    I want to get a turbo kit for my 05 350z but im not sure which one will give me the most horsepower. Does anyone have any suggestions for a turbo kit?
  • zkashzkash Member Posts: 3

    Please help me out over here. I am thinking about getting HID bulbs but I don't know if my car have the HID capability. I don't really wana get those coversion kits...

    Anybody has similar experience?


  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    any one think that good tires will help me out. i installed stillen stainless steel headers. a high performance clutch kit an AEM intake and an HKS exhaust system. my car stock would do 14.5 sec on the quarter mile. and now it seems like im doing 14.9 that sucks. when i step on it the car is peeling out fish tailing and bouncing heavy like a little ball and i end up losing against a st0ck 350z. they told me something about some semi slick tires because the dyno reported i should do @ 13.2 seconds at the qrt. mile. between 99 & 102 mph i need good advice can some one hook me up
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Tires are definitely your problem, probably reaction time too but tires you can fix easily.

    Anytime you add more power you should always upgrade tires and brakes accordingly. If you can't get the power to the ground, you won't go fast.

    I'd suggest a set of BFG KDxxx tires. Very good at the drag strip from what I've heard. Also might try some dedicated 1/4 mile tires as well like Hoosiers or some drage radials.

  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    and how can i get good in reaction b cuz i admit i do pretty bad
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,600
    practice practice practice

    by the way, traction is even a problem for bone-stock Zs, so I have no doubt you need better tires.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    my nissan misfires alot. u can hear it out the exhaust pipes. is it the spark plugs? the service engine lighted up and when the car is on 4 a while the light flashes? u can feel the car shakes alot
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,600
    could be any number of things. if it is shaking, yeah, it sounds like you may have a fouled plug, but why is it fouled is the real question. Could be as simple as bad gas or it could be as major as a bad valve. There are just too many possibilities and not enough info. With the light on, you need to take it somewhere and get that code read, that's the only starting point.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What mods are done on the shaking 350z?

  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    i took care of the problem thank u guys for ur tips. a spark plug was touching completely like it didnt have no gap at all. it was tight closed. and that plug was a little wet with oil. why did the plug get like that. u guys think is because of my gas? or my valve because its just one. the others are fine. i know my valve cover gaskets are bad and thats why it gets wet with oil. could that be the reason 4 the plug messing up. the plugs are ngk platinum and i had them bearly for 1 month
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    That plug probably got wet with oil because the gap was closed up, and so there was no spark in that cylinder. Plug gaps do not just close up by themselves. There is a reason that happened. Probably the most likely possibility is that someone dropped the plug when it was first being installed, and that impact closed up the gap. In that case, the cylinder never fired properly since the plugs were put in.

    Another possibility is that there was a foreign object in the cylinder that hit the plug at one point. If that was the case, it has hopefully blown out through the exhaust valve by now.

    The third possibility is that the wrong plug type was installed in the engine, and at least one of them was hit by the piston. Check all the plugs to see if they have the exact same part number as the one that closed up, and look for signs that the ground electrode on other plugs may have been hit. The stock NGK platinum plug is #PLFR5A-11 (stock #6240) The gap should be .044" If an NGK iridium plug was used, the part number would be LFR5AIX-11 (stock #4469).

    If you check all these points and don't find any problems, considering you have a modified engine and drive it hard, there is a chance that the platinum plugs are too hot for the engine under hard driving. Platinum plugs will sometimes show less tolerance for heat than plain old nickel electrode plugs. So you might need to go to a colder plug. And, if this is the case, and you stay with the plugs you've now got, one of them may close up again in hard driving, or the insulator might break up. That could potentially do more damage to the engine than just making it miss.

    With a modified engine, I'd consider going one or two heat ranges colder. One range colder in iridium would be #LFR6AIX-11 (stock #6619). Two ranges colder would be #LFR7AIX (stock #2309).
  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    thank you. it helped me alot. im going to try these procedures.. but what brand of plugs do u recomend me?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    If the other plugs all had the same part number as the one that closed up, and it was the part number I said was the stock recommendation, then I would go to a colder plug. You can use either an NGK iridium plug, or a silver electrode racing plug made by a company called Brisk. The Brisk will give you more power, but it is not carried in local stores, so it would have to be ordered online through The Brisk part number is ER14YS. And you'd have to set the gap before installing.

    The NGK iridium plug is part #LFR7AIX, (stock #2309). If your local stores don't carry it, you can order it online at They are $8.00 each from that source. These plugs come set to a smaller gap than your engine needs, so their gaps will also have to be reset before installing.
  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    ngk-R laser Platinum Premium (PLFR5A-11) 6240
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I assume you are saying that the plug number you posted is what is now in your engine. That is the stock plug. So those plugs are now probably too hot for engine, because of the modifications you've made.

    I would recommend ordering a set of Brisk ER14YS from

    The last time I ordered from them, they sent a card that had a promo code of "LESLIE" on it. If you enter that code on the form when you order, they'll give you a free gift.
  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    thank u very much i will order brisk er14ys and will keep in contact a/s/a/p
  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    i fixed my car. headers, exhaust, cold air intake. high perf. clutch. it worked badass. NOW!! my o-2 sensors are low my mass air flow sensor is damaged it turned on my cel on. my car doesnt feel powerful any more. i step on it and i dont feel what i used to. when i change gears it doesnt kick me bak no more.(well sometimes it does.) my 1/4 mile run is worse than when i was st0ck. why is that can anybody help me out? is it because of my mass air flow sensor? or my o-2 sensors or what can i do to it? i love my z and i hate to give it up. stock z's kick my [non-permissible content removed] and i dont get it why?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    The last time you posted here, you said you would order a set of Brisk plugs. So did you get them, and what happened?

    Besides the fact that your stock plugs are too hot, the low O2 sensor readings mean that your engine is running too lean. The headers, exhaust, and cold air intake all lean out the air/fuel ratio. When you make changes like that, you then have to richen up the fuel mixture in order to get the potential power gains those modifications can produce. And the way to richen the mixture is by having a shop that does dyno tuning tweak your computer to correct the too lean fuel mixture. Some shops have the knowledge and skill to do that, but many others don't. So find out beforehand from professional racers about which shops are good at that very specialized type of work. And it will cost you some bucks, but there's no way to modify an engine and get results without correcting the fuel mixture, period.

    Many times, people make very good modifications to their engines, but then find they have less power than they did before. This frequently means that the fuel mixture has gone off because of the modifications. But when you take that badly running car and straighten out the mixture, it becomes a whole different type of animal.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,600
    just return your car to stock. that's my best advice.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have to agree with Zaken. First you need to fix your Mass Air Flow Sensor and O2 sensor in order to do anything. Then you need to get it to a dyno-tuner who can tune it. This will run you anywhere from $400-1000 depending on who is doing the tuning, where you live, etc. That is the only way to take advantage of the bolt-on parts you put in. While you are at it, once you increase power you need to modify your brakes, suspension and tires to handle the new-found power, this is the #1 way to wreck a nicely tuned car is to plow into something because the car couldn't stick or stop well.

  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    yes sir. i got the iridium brisks. i have more power and my car is doing my problem is the o2 sensors. i was told exactly the same thing about my gas being too lean. that is why now i trust my mechanic because im also hearing it from you. do u think i also need to replace my o2 sensors or i should only get the gas tuning? my mechanic says my sensors are slow and that they should be between .400 and .800 but when he did the tests they were .150 and lower. what is better 4 my ride a reflash or a gas management programmer
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I'm glad to hear you got the cold plugs! It sounds to me like your O2 sensors are probably not broken. The low and slow readings are to be expected, when your mixture is too lean. That just means the sensors are doing their job. When the mixture is corrected, the sensors will read faster and the levels will be higher.

    A stock reflash would just reinstall the original specs into the computer, and that wouldn't change your fuel mixture. But maybe you were referring to reflashing the computer with a higher performance map for the fuel mixture. I don't know if that is an available option. If there is a reflash of a modified fuel map out there, it would cost less to install than a fuel management programmer. But the fuel management programmer would allow you to adjust the mixture to get the best performance, while the reflash would lock you into whatever mixture settings were written into it. If the reflash specs were intended for an engine with just bolt on modifications, like you have, it would probably work OK; but if it was intended for a supercharged or all out race motor, the mixture wouldn't be right for your needs.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    After writing the note above, I did some checking around, and found that there is now a fuel and ignition controller made for your car by AEM, which is made to connect to the car's stock computer. It can change the injection pulse width by infinitely variable steps, up to an 100% increase. And that should enable precise setting of as much additional fuel as you'd ever need! It also allows retuning if you make future modifications to the engine. Because this controller works in combination with the stock computer, it is much less expensive than a stand alone unit. It will probably need to be initially programmed by connecting it to a laptop or desktop PC. AEM developed this part for the 350Z, so there is no question about it working well. The current ones may need to be hard wired into the vehicle. They're talking about making it a direct plug in system later on.

    Summit Racing has this unit in stock under part number AVM-30-1910, and sells them for $397.95.
  • 03nissan03nissan Member Posts: 11
    thanks 4 looking up on that for me. i appreciate it and i will keep that in mind
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Fun stuff, but it may not it to the States.

    NISMO's Nissan 370Z S-tune



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