Nissan 350Z and 370Z engine and exterior tuneups
Hello, im Allan
i just got a 350z 2003 for my first car....it is black on black...... and i really wanted to sup this car up.. i want headers, intake,,(loud, nice puring)exhaust, coolers, HID lights, lambo doors, and more stuff done to my enigne....
i was wondering off all you good people of edmunds could recommend,,what parts, the top name brand,, and the order in which i would install the parts......also i was thinkin of lamborghini doors,,which pop out and go directly vertical instead of those other brands that go vertical/horizantal...which would inflict in me parking...
so please help me and tell me wat you thiink
thank yall
i just got a 350z 2003 for my first car....it is black on black...... and i really wanted to sup this car up.. i want headers, intake,,(loud, nice puring)exhaust, coolers, HID lights, lambo doors, and more stuff done to my enigne....
i was wondering off all you good people of edmunds could recommend,,what parts, the top name brand,, and the order in which i would install the parts......also i was thinkin of lamborghini doors,,which pop out and go directly vertical instead of those other brands that go vertical/horizantal...which would inflict in me parking...
so please help me and tell me wat you thiink
thank yall
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Comments
Later Derek
but what brand do yall think would give me the most hp and also for the exhaust would be the loudest....and for the intake...which one is the brand(iforgot the name) that when your car switches gear, its makes it sound like you have a turbo
and what do yall think about fuel injectors and headers, along with the basic i want exhaust, and intake
what else? and what brand,,,and what order should they be installed in
Borla Stainless Steel True Dual Exhaust
Injen cold air intake (not that sure on this intake tho any suggesting?)
Crawford Headers
im still looking for a good intercooler....fuel injectors....and a good set of lambo doors
so im still lookin for a good coolers
and maybe somethign else i dnt know about i need advice and suggestions
bora dual exhaust
greedy or AEM intake
greddy headers,downpipe, and when i got enough turbokti with injectors
intercooler
fuel managment system
boost controller
and blow off valve
Anyway, have you checked out the intake plenum replacements? They used to have a spacer you could buy that improved fuel delivery, but I heard from an owner just the other weekend that there is now a complete replacement plenum that will work with the stock shock brace.
What have you done in the tire department? The stock Z tires would go up in smoke on the stock engine output, so upgrading to better tires would help launches the most.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Some chips work, some don't. It really depends on the reputation of the vendor. I myself wouldn't install a chip unless you could speak with another 350Z owner who did it and has evidence that it worked (that is, a dyno slip).
Better fuel mileage and more power are incompatible concepts IMO.
foch.
Actual dyno sheets have shown the popcharger can net 10hp. For the money, I'd say that's a deal.
The biggest bang, of course, is the turbo, but it is anything but cheap.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Jon
LAtr joe
vs
Please help me out over here. I am thinking about getting HID bulbs but I don't know if my car have the HID capability. I don't really wana get those coversion kits...
Anybody has similar experience?
Thanks
Zmike
Anytime you add more power you should always upgrade tires and brakes accordingly. If you can't get the power to the ground, you won't go fast.
I'd suggest a set of BFG KDxxx tires. Very good at the drag strip from what I've heard. Also might try some dedicated 1/4 mile tires as well like Hoosiers or some drage radials.
-mike
by the way, traction is even a problem for bone-stock Zs, so I have no doubt you need better tires.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
-mike
Another possibility is that there was a foreign object in the cylinder that hit the plug at one point. If that was the case, it has hopefully blown out through the exhaust valve by now.
The third possibility is that the wrong plug type was installed in the engine, and at least one of them was hit by the piston. Check all the plugs to see if they have the exact same part number as the one that closed up, and look for signs that the ground electrode on other plugs may have been hit. The stock NGK platinum plug is #PLFR5A-11 (stock #6240) The gap should be .044" If an NGK iridium plug was used, the part number would be LFR5AIX-11 (stock #4469).
If you check all these points and don't find any problems, considering you have a modified engine and drive it hard, there is a chance that the platinum plugs are too hot for the engine under hard driving. Platinum plugs will sometimes show less tolerance for heat than plain old nickel electrode plugs. So you might need to go to a colder plug. And, if this is the case, and you stay with the plugs you've now got, one of them may close up again in hard driving, or the insulator might break up. That could potentially do more damage to the engine than just making it miss.
With a modified engine, I'd consider going one or two heat ranges colder. One range colder in iridium would be #LFR6AIX-11 (stock #6619). Two ranges colder would be #LFR7AIX (stock #2309).
The NGK iridium plug is part #LFR7AIX, (stock #2309). If your local stores don't carry it, you can order it online at sparkplugs.com They are $8.00 each from that source. These plugs come set to a smaller gap than your engine needs, so their gaps will also have to be reset before installing.
I would recommend ordering a set of Brisk ER14YS from briskracing.com
The last time I ordered from them, they sent a card that had a promo code of "LESLIE" on it. If you enter that code on the form when you order, they'll give you a free gift.
Besides the fact that your stock plugs are too hot, the low O2 sensor readings mean that your engine is running too lean. The headers, exhaust, and cold air intake all lean out the air/fuel ratio. When you make changes like that, you then have to richen up the fuel mixture in order to get the potential power gains those modifications can produce. And the way to richen the mixture is by having a shop that does dyno tuning tweak your computer to correct the too lean fuel mixture. Some shops have the knowledge and skill to do that, but many others don't. So find out beforehand from professional racers about which shops are good at that very specialized type of work. And it will cost you some bucks, but there's no way to modify an engine and get results without correcting the fuel mixture, period.
Many times, people make very good modifications to their engines, but then find they have less power than they did before. This frequently means that the fuel mixture has gone off because of the modifications. But when you take that badly running car and straighten out the mixture, it becomes a whole different type of animal.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
-mike
A stock reflash would just reinstall the original specs into the computer, and that wouldn't change your fuel mixture. But maybe you were referring to reflashing the computer with a higher performance map for the fuel mixture. I don't know if that is an available option. If there is a reflash of a modified fuel map out there, it would cost less to install than a fuel management programmer. But the fuel management programmer would allow you to adjust the mixture to get the best performance, while the reflash would lock you into whatever mixture settings were written into it. If the reflash specs were intended for an engine with just bolt on modifications, like you have, it would probably work OK; but if it was intended for a supercharged or all out race motor, the mixture wouldn't be right for your needs.
Summit Racing has this unit in stock under part number AVM-30-1910, and sells them for $397.95.
NISMO's Nissan 370Z S-tune