I'm sorry, I said Voyager, but it is the Commander. I didn't think Voyager looked right, so I finally got to the Tekonsha site and looked it up. Sorry everyone for being off topic slightly.
Bob - you state "they've installed (steering shaft) in dozens of vehicles around here alone to fix this problem", I'm curious, do you work for a dealer? BTW, Thanks for the info and the part number. The service dept loves when you come in prepared.
Kanton - It sounds as if we have the same problem. My truck is an LT which was assembled in Oshawa Ontario Canada (week of Jan 10. I believe). I'm anxious to hear if the steering shaft resolves your problems.
Nothing personal taken. My '92 actually had the limited slip as you said and my '90 had no limited slip. I agree that as far as options go it was one of the first on my list but I wasn't about to go through the long wait just to get it.
I've apparently got some work to do to get this 1500LS shaped up the way I want it. Just have to be careful not to do something that might void the warranty...can't have that. Not sure what I'm gonna do yet, but thanks for all the input guys.
odenmeyer - No I don't work for a dealer, but have two close friends who I know outside of work and they have told me that this is what they are doing. BTW, they didn't know what to do either until I gave them info from this site so these type sites are definitely helping the dealers as well. By the part being on National Back Order for several weeks goes to prove that GM had problems with one of it's suppliers.
I think all this information on the Web and sites like this probably give the manufacture heart burn, but it's helping all of us get our vehicles fixed faster and sooner then if we just had to rely on our local dealerships.
PS....The spring rubbers helped the spring slap/clunking from the rear springs as well and the 'Blue' Transfer case fluid (PT #12378508)cured my driveline clunk and noise. Hopefully it's fixed....
Have found that the dull black factory wheel flares are available at the dealer (John Miles Chevrolet, Conyers, GA) for $121 plus tax (set of four). They also have the glossy black finished ones. Auto repair shops can get them also to repair damaged ones.
Well with all the discussion on lockers and people saying that it engages within 3/4 revolution, i decided to try for myself yesterday with my 2000 3/4 ton w/locker. Since we got 6-8 iches of snow yesterday i decided to see when it engages, Well i was disappointed, i went about 100 foot from a dead stop and all i got was one wheel peel outs. I let on an off several times but it never locked. i tried this about 4 times then i had to put it four wheel to get out of the parking lot. After driving home i decided to try it again from a dead stop, sure enough it locked it after many revolutions. I then went around the block and tried again then it would not lock, looks like It's time for the dealer to look at it. After about 8 tries i would say that it locked up maybe 4 times.
Can Anybody give me a good description of the difference between a Locking Rear Diff and a Limited Slip Diff. I have the locking rear diff in my 99 LS 5.3l. Is this better than the limited slip?????
My brother has a '99 Silverado LS regular cab shortbox (fleetside) 4WD.It's loaded with everything except leather. 5.3 V8,autotrac,Z71,power bench seats,trailer pkg, etc. It's an excellent truck! Only thing he relpaced was the shocks. He put a set of Edelbrock IAS shock absorbers. The factory shocks were very rough with the short box. These Edelbrock are great. Carlike ride over bumps, yet firm ride through corners, etc.
Does anybody think that the extended cab is worth the extra $3500 bucks more then the regular cab??? Any information from someone who selected the extended cab over the regular cab would be great! rcoos
I didn't think 3 doors was worth it, esp the longer wait at the time with the rear 3rd door on passgr.
If I did it again, would get the 4 door ext long bed instead of my reg cab. But then again, the difference between $22K and $25.5 might even push me all the way to a one ton crew cab of the SD or new 8.1L Silverado variety.
When you consider that 85% of trucks sold are extended cabs, it's usually not a consideration of if it's worth the extra money.
I got the regular cab, not so much to save money, but because I knew I'd just be throwing stuff back there, not people. I got a long bed regular cab with a nice tool chest for my stuff, and a shorter truck than an extended cab short bed.
i think a while back some of you were talking about hood/bug deflectors that install using nylon inserts in some square holes under the hood. is this correct? wondering what brand of shield is using that method, sounds great to me! looking for a place to get one! thanks!
Well I had the replacement steering shaft installed and guess what... the rattle is still there. No change what-so-ever!! Back to the drawing board, the dealer has said they will get to the bottom of this. They want to have the truck back again and really go through it to determine the problem. Fine with me, it just sucks and is frustrating that I have to take it back again and waste more time. But on the brighter side, the dealer is intrigued with the noise and wants to resolve it. They are not giving me any kind of run -around.
When the truck was at the dealer I drove my mom's '96 Yukon around. There was about 2" of snow on the ground, and it performed different than my Silverado. In 2 wheel drive the rear wheels got much more traction than my Eaton Posi. I figured she had the locker. I looked at the info plate in the glove box, and sure enough G80, the locker was listed. From the way this thing performed, you can bet my next truck will have a locker. It was much better than the Eaton Posi I have. Kyle
checkout the following link for the bug deflector. I got the Interceptor for my 2000 LS. It came with 5 square plastic inserts to place into 5 existing holes in hood. Just screw it in. Took about 5 minutes. No problems after 8500 miles. You can find it at most truck accessory website. good luck.
I picked up the Bugflector II. Probably all of them use the 5 nylon plugs. I like mine, looks nice and seems to work pretty well. I did notice the slightest of flutters, but I had to listen for it.
Ive just been very busy with school. No ones talking bout anything good anyways
And for anyone who doesnt know me NO I DIDNT BUY A TUNDRA just wanted to clear that up. I did sit in one at the autoshow yesterday and i feel sorry for whoever in this world who has to ride in that hell hole of a back seat.
On a side note i do like the chevy avalanche. Inside seems to be the same of the tahoe,silverado, and the suburban.
Has anyone else went to the chicago autoshow it didnt seem as good this year as last even though they had more cars this yr something was missing i wasnt that impressed this year.
Any of yawl replace your psgr compartment air filter yet, gonna go by and get a filter on the way home from work.
1999 Sil 1/2 ton 4x4 4.8L manual at 17K. Still happy. Avg fuel econ 16 to 17. Best 18 slow highway. Worst 7 mpg towing uphill.
Sorry Tim, but my buddy's F350SD CC with V10 is still the nicest/best PU I have ridden in or driven. He gets about 13 out on the road and has plenty of power.
The traction comparison is not valid because of the difference in size between the Yukon and the Silverado. The Silverado has much longer wheel base unless you have a regular short bed. Not to mention tire differences. Compare pples to apples not apples to oranges
Is the autoshow worth going to? I was going to go on Sat, but if it sucks I won't bother.
As far as the extended cab vs not goes, my humble opinion is if you don't get the extended cab, definitely get the long bed. The short bed without the extended cab just doesn't look right to me, and doesn't have as much functionality as a regular cab long bed or extended cab short or long bed. I have a friend who has a 90 Silverado long bed, and he is getting a 2000 extended cab short bed.
Go its worth it definitly its just that last yr i went for one reason The new silverado. I was so excited to go you know this yr was a little let down but they have alot of cars and trucks. Id go again (i had free tix ) A weekday is much better to go though less people i enjoy the weekdays better. I really liked the terradyne i stood and listened to the guy talk about it for 15-25 min. That thing cost 3 million dollars to build i doubt itll be made you have to go see that thing its amazing. Hope you have fun Go you will enjoy it
yeah, I would much prefer a week day, but it just didn't work into the schedule. Oh well, maybe if I get their right when it opens, it won't be too bad. Yeah, right.
I'm surprised there are no after market "hepa" filters for these trucks out yet & the dealer having to order it doesn't make any sense either, sounds like he's just trying to keep his overhead costs down.
I choose reg cab because I need a long bed and don't want to drive such a long truck. Also I have a car to carry people so I don't need the space. I really like having storage behind the seat for tools etc. You loose that with the ext cab.
You should get that locker looked at. I tested mine on a road with some loose dirt and left two even length stripes. I also tried it with one wheel on a dirt shoulder and one on the road and got very little spin on the dirt side. The Eaton site says it will kick-in in one revolution.
Well, after going from my 200HP FWD, to 285 RWD, pulling out into traffic on wet roads is an adventure. Not used to fishtailing it, but I do know that my locker is working.
Remember kids, don't try this at home... Boy, where can I find a professional driver on a close road when I need one?
On the Silerados, there is a vacume operated indicator. The dirtier the filter, the more vacume created, the more the indicator moves.. The indicator "sticks" to the highest level reached, and is resettable at filter changes. Or you could do it the old way. Take it out, if one side is almost black and you can't see pinholes of light as you hold it up to the sun, replace it.
If you're only going to have rear wheel drive, get the locker. If you're getting "4WD", do you REALLY need the locker as well? When it's engaged, you've got front wheel drive + normal rear wheel drive.
What GM SHOULD provide is something like hardware controlled Quadradrive from the Jeeps or the Electronic wheel spin control on all the Mercedes. If you've got ABS brakes you already have the sensors at each wheel, and a brake modulator. How hard could it be to ADD brake
2000ryan - i got the bugflector ii also. found it at pepboys, $39.95, 5 minute install. no wind noise or flutter up to 85 mph. didn't affect how the washer fluid hit the windshield either. lund interceptor looked nice too, but they didn't have it in stock (saw it in the catalog) so i said, ok, 40 bucks, let's go...
rcoos - i like my extended cab. it lets me keep things warm, dry, and locked up if i want to until i get a cap for the bed. for example, groceries, luggage, personal gear, etc. it's nice to have, but it all depends what you want your truck for. i will also use my truck to shuttle people around, and when i have kids, god knows they'll fit back there for quite a few years before they get too big for it.
tim - you have access to your web site? i have digital photos (jpg's) of my truck now, and would like to post them. email me at kwerking@aol.com if you would. thanks...anyone looking to see what onyx black over light pewter z71 looks like, stand by...it'll be here soon.
markbuck - BE CAREFUL!!! What year do you have??? If it is a 99 or newer the front and rear differentials, including the Limited Slip, use Synthetic fluid.
I have an extended cab because I have a 11 yr old son and a 14 yr old son. Both fit back there with no problem and my 14 yr old is 5' 11" tall. It looks sharper than the reg cab (in my opinion).
Also, I noticed in the manual it says that the message center will alert you to when to change the oil. Have any of you had good luck with it informing you at good mileage intervals. I normally change the oil in a vehicle every 4,000 miles and my last car had 192,000 miles on it when I sold it. It still ran great. Help me out here.
How are you doing MAJORMORGY? Have you received a build date yet?
Mine came on for the first time at about 4600 miles, with a mix of city and highway driving. I only let it go to what the indicator says because I use synthetic oil, though. GM says it is calibrated for regular oil, but I figure if I change it when the light comes on with synthetic, my engine should last a long, long time. I'm hoping to get many, many years out of this truck, so that's important to me.
1) My engine air filter (the extra capacity one) is just fine on the 4.8 at 17,000 miles. The pressure drop indicator is less than 1/2 way to the top.
2) At one year, supposed to replace the inside air filter for the HVAC system. While running the fan on #3, grabbed the cover on this filter and tweaked it a little and bunch of dust blew out on the HP side. Figured it was time to replace as I have dog, dust,... Will reclean the old one after new one put in and probably rotate these. Dealer ordered the "kit", now wondering if GM sells the filter alone for less money. The part number in owners manual is for the kit. Will report next week on outcome.
3) Front diff TSB's say the 1999 is filled with conventional lube. May use synthetic for extreme cold weather. Will probably refill front with Mobil1 gear lube as it costs about 1/4 what the special GM rear diff lube. Transfer case (manual) says just use Dextron III. Will fill that with Mobil1 ATF.
4) Firm believer in the new oil change indicator. First trigger at 3200, second after 3600, third at 2900, and the fourth trigger has yet to happen at over 4000 miles. These trigger points seem to track the usage (cold vs hot weather, mostly city vs hwy trips) quite well.
Oh ya, didn't trust the system for the first 10,000 miles and followed a 1,000 then every 3,000 mile change interval. Reset the oil light only when it triggered. I now reset it when I change my oil.
Mine came on for the first time at about 4600 miles, with a mix of city and highway driving. I only let it go to what the indicator says because I use synthetic oil, though. GM says it is calibrated for regular oil, but I figure if I change it when the light comes on with synthetic, my engine should last a long, long time. I'm hoping to get many, many years out of this truck, so that's important to me.
Haven't received a build date yet. i called the 800 # last friday to see if they had any info. They didn't have a build date then. The operator offered to call me on fridays to keep me informed. thought that was nice of him. will see if he follows thru. Bet you're enjoying your new wheels! Tried it in the snow yet? we're suppose to get a storm friday about noon time here south of Boston. I wonder how GM calibrates the need for an oil change. do they take engine hours into consideration? I normally change oil & filter every 3,000. My father uses mobil1 and only changes the filter and 1 quart every 3,000. don't know that i agree with that. even tho the oil doesn't break down, it certainly must get dirty. Comments?
# starts, temp of oil at 1 minute intervals, miles,....
Just an algorithm that counts ticks. Once ticks exceed the tick limit, light goes on.
Lots of ticks for starts and low or high oil temps. Not many ticks for nominal engine temp. Believe the algorithm will trigger somewhere between 3000 km and 15000 km.
Read about this on one of these posts. I suspect I explained about 50% right....
Comments
is the front too low??.....not really....
- Tim
Sorry everyone for being off topic slightly.
Have a nice day..
Roger
Kanton - It sounds as if we have the same problem. My truck is an LT which was assembled in Oshawa Ontario Canada (week of Jan 10. I believe). I'm anxious to hear if the steering shaft resolves your problems.
Mark
The answer is: Silver-ado.
Mike
I think all this information on the Web and sites like this probably give the manufacture heart burn, but it's helping all of us get our vehicles fixed faster and sooner then if we just had to rely on our local dealerships.
PS....The spring rubbers helped the spring slap/clunking from the rear springs as well and the 'Blue' Transfer case fluid (PT #12378508)cured my driveline clunk and noise. Hopefully it's fixed....
A locking differential, upon sensing slippage on one wheel, and sends the motive power to both rear wheels simultaneously.
As to which is better, everyone here has a different opinion......
Hope this helps a little,
Ryan
Ray T.
Does anybody think that the extended cab is worth the extra $3500 bucks more then the regular cab??? Any information from someone who selected the extended cab over the regular cab would be great!
rcoos
If I did it again, would get the 4 door ext long bed instead of my reg cab. But then again, the difference between $22K and $25.5 might even push me all the way to a one ton crew cab of the SD or new 8.1L Silverado variety.
I got the regular cab, not so much to save money, but because I knew I'd just be throwing stuff back there, not people. I got a long bed regular cab with a nice tool chest for my stuff, and a shorter truck than an extended cab short bed.
Just depends on how you are going to use it.
When the truck was at the dealer I drove my mom's '96 Yukon around. There was about 2" of snow on the ground, and it performed different than my Silverado. In 2 wheel drive the rear wheels got much more traction than my Eaton Posi. I figured she had the locker. I looked at the info plate in the glove box, and sure enough G80, the locker was listed. From the way this thing performed, you can bet my next truck will have a locker. It was much better than the Eaton Posi I have.
Kyle
It came with 5 square plastic inserts to place into 5 existing holes in hood. Just screw it in. Took about 5 minutes. No problems after 8500 miles. You can find it at most truck accessory website. good luck.
http://www.detailshop.com/hood.htm
Keith.
Ryan
You need this place man...
LOL
- Tim
0 for Ryan for hiding
Ive just been very busy with school. No ones talking bout anything good anyways
And for anyone who doesnt know me NO I DIDNT BUY A TUNDRA just wanted to clear that up. I did sit in one at the autoshow yesterday and i feel sorry for whoever in this world who has to ride in that hell hole of a back seat.
On a side note i do like the chevy avalanche. Inside seems to be the same of the tahoe,silverado, and the suburban.
Has anyone else went to the chicago autoshow it didnt seem as good this year as last even though they had more cars this yr something was missing i wasnt that impressed this year.
Its nice to be back
Ryan
1999 Sil 1/2 ton 4x4 4.8L manual at 17K. Still happy. Avg fuel econ 16 to 17. Best 18 slow highway. Worst 7 mpg towing uphill.
Sorry Tim, but my buddy's F350SD CC with V10 is still the nicest/best PU I have ridden in or driven. He gets about 13 out on the road and has plenty of power.
The new 8.1L Silverado CC looks good though too.
Anybody got a part number.
Doing the 1 yr T&S myself.
As far as the extended cab vs not goes, my humble opinion is if you don't get the extended cab, definitely get the long bed. The short bed without the extended cab just doesn't look right to me, and doesn't have as much functionality as a regular cab long bed or extended cab short or long bed. I have a friend who has a 90 Silverado long bed, and he is getting a 2000 extended cab short bed.
Ryan
Probably gonna change MT fluid and front diff.
Will only top off rear locker with the $23 per qt
synth oil.
No need to change it frequently like Tim thinks unless you submerge the rear diff in water.
Oh ya, 'bout $23 for a new passenger comp filter, and the dealer had to order it....
Probably gonna change MT fluid and front diff while at it.
Will only top off rear locker with the $23 per qt
synth oil.
No need to change it frequently like Tim thinks unless you submerge the rear diff in water.
Oh ya, 'bout $23 for a new passenger comp filter, and the dealer had to order it....
Ray T.
It should be standard on a $30,000 truck!
$23 for an air filter? How do you know when it needs replacing?
Plus it looks better!
Remember kids, don't try this at home... Boy, where can I find a professional driver on a close road when I need one?
Keith
What GM SHOULD provide is something like hardware controlled Quadradrive from the Jeeps or the Electronic wheel spin control on all the Mercedes. If you've got ABS brakes you already have the sensors at each wheel, and a brake modulator. How hard could it be to ADD brake
rcoos - i like my extended cab. it lets me keep things warm, dry, and locked up if i want to until i get a cap for the bed. for example, groceries, luggage, personal gear, etc. it's nice to have, but it all depends what you want your truck for. i will also use my truck to shuttle people around, and when i have kids, god knows they'll fit back there for quite a few years before they get too big for it.
tim - you have access to your web site? i have digital photos (jpg's) of my truck now, and would like to post them. email me at kwerking@aol.com if you would. thanks...anyone looking to see what onyx black over light pewter z71 looks like, stand by...it'll be here soon.
kyle
Also, I noticed in the manual it says that the message center will alert you to when to change the oil. Have any of you had good luck with it informing you at good mileage intervals. I normally change the oil in a vehicle every 4,000 miles and my last car had 192,000 miles on it when I sold it. It still ran great. Help me out here.
How are you doing MAJORMORGY? Have you received a build date yet?
2) At one year, supposed to replace the inside air filter for the HVAC system. While running the fan on #3, grabbed the cover on this filter and tweaked it a little and bunch of dust blew out on the HP side. Figured it was time to replace as I have dog, dust,... Will reclean the old one after new one put in and probably rotate these. Dealer ordered the "kit", now wondering if GM sells the filter alone for less money. The part number in owners manual is for the kit. Will report next week on outcome.
3) Front diff TSB's say the 1999 is filled with conventional lube. May use synthetic for extreme cold weather. Will probably refill front with Mobil1 gear lube as it costs about 1/4 what the special GM rear diff lube. Transfer case (manual) says just use Dextron III. Will fill that with Mobil1 ATF.
4) Firm believer in the new oil change indicator. First trigger at 3200, second after 3600, third at 2900, and the fourth trigger has yet to happen at over 4000 miles. These trigger points seem to track the usage (cold vs hot weather, mostly city vs hwy trips) quite well.
Oh ya, didn't trust the system for the first 10,000 miles and followed a 1,000 then every 3,000 mile change interval. Reset the oil light only when it triggered. I now reset it when I change my oil.
Bet you're enjoying your new wheels! Tried it in the snow yet? we're suppose to get a storm friday about noon time here south of Boston.
I wonder how GM calibrates the need for an oil change. do they take engine hours into consideration? I normally change oil & filter every 3,000. My father uses mobil1 and only changes the filter and 1 quart every 3,000. don't know that i agree with that. even tho the oil doesn't break down, it certainly must get dirty.
Comments?
Just an algorithm that counts ticks. Once ticks exceed the tick limit, light goes on.
Lots of ticks for starts and low or high oil temps. Not many ticks for nominal engine temp. Believe the algorithm will trigger somewhere between 3000 km and 15000 km.
Read about this on one of these posts. I suspect I explained about 50% right....
Anybody remember the website