2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Lease Questions

area51ufo

I'm in the Chicago area and will need the 15,000 miles based on my daily commute.

area51ufo

Hey Rob,

When I add up the taxes and other fees I get $2038.54. Divide that by 36 and I get $56.63. So when I subtract that from the $384.84 I get $328.21 which is a little under what you think a good price would be. I'm just choosing to have the taxes and fees rolled into the monthly payments so I don't have to pay anything other then the first payment.

robertw477

Sorry about that! I forgot you had such high sales taxes etc. That looks like a very good rate to me.

Rob

shavh

Hi -

I received a lease price of $349
for the following:

Honda 4 dr sedan EX L V-6
36 mths
12,000 miles

Have no idea if this is reasonable

bvdj84

Is that with $0 down? If it is, I think its great!! Apparently you can get a 4cyl EX-L for about $340..or so take on about $2k in options, and you have your quote..

That is what I would like... the V6 EX-L

sleepysoo

hey! yes...it's somewhere between $275 and $276/month before taxes.

we went to the dealership in cerritos. I think you can do better than me though...i would at least try!!!

but, check to see if the money factor and residuals are still the same. if it's lower, then you can get a lower payment. I think they're still doing the $1500 dealer incentive though...so that hasn't changed!

jlee8071

thanks for the reply. How much do you think I should shoot for LX ? (3 yrs/12k miles)

If I dont need moon-roof and CD changer and power seat, are there other reasons that I should get EX instead of LX?

how good is the security system?

thanks for your hep!

pacinpelo

If this is a ZERO down lease (only 1st mo, reg), it seems like a great deal.

koftheworld

Hey guys,

I just wanted to get your opinion on the lease I just signed. Keep in mind I live in Central NJ.

Accord LX w/ wheel locks, splash guards, and trunk protector
36 months, 12,000 miles/year
$244/month
$1,300 total out of pocket (included 1st month, taxes, tire fees, other fees, etc.)

Thanks!

fmejia83

where in NJ? Not sure if i'm going about this the wrong way but i'm currently in the market for a lease for above mentioned car but with Nav. I've been to two dealerships that only want to talk about monthly payments i want to make and what i need to put down to get to that payment. When i asked what the final selling price of the vehicle was they told me that's not important and i need $2600 down to be at $378\month\36 months! I have a top tier credit rating. Any help would be great as to how to approach a dealership where they take me serious. I'm only 26 but look 18 so i'm not sure if that is working against me. I wasn't sure how to post this question on car space as i'm new to all this. Thanks in advance!

fmejia83

Not sure if i'm going about this the wrong way but i'm currently in the market for a lease for an 09 4cyl coupe with navi. I've been to two dealerships that only want to talk about monthly payments i want to make and what i need to put down to get to that payment. When i asked what the final selling price of the vehicle was they told me that's not important and i need $2600 down to be at $378\month\36 months! I have a top tier credit rating. Any help would be great as to how to approach a dealership where they take me serious. I'm only 26 but look 18 so i'm not sure if that is working against me. i have an appointment with yet another dealership in NJ that is saying selling price $24,523 at $378\month for 36 monts with $1500 that includes dealer fees and inceptions. Is that good or should i balk

robertw477

Read these forums. See what people like myself and others have been reporting pricewise. Ask for a sign and drive lease only with a detailed list on any startup costs like first month, tag etc.

SIGN AND DRIVE ONLY No cap cost. Compare the prices to what you see here.
Of course they would love to fleece you. Happens all the time. Some will lie and say only with money down. Or e can lower your payments when you put thousands of dollars down on a lease.

Robert

fmejia83

I have been but haven't been able to find anything for a 09 accord coupe EX-L with navi. I did the math myself using MF of .00207 and a 55% residual using the Selling price of $24,378 and an MSRP of $29,225 with 7% tax rolled in and i came to $336\36 months with absolutely nothing down. What are normal inception fees in NJ? What's the MF and residual value currently for july for the coupe ex-l 4 cyl auto with nav?

CarMan@Edmunds

Yes, avalon2000, I concur.

Car_man
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CarMan@Edmunds

Hi Josh. The best way for me to evaluate this deal is to look at the selling price that it was based upon. The selling prices of leased vehicles are negotiable, just as if you were paying cash for or financing them. Without this number, it is difficult to tell how large a dealer discount you are getting. Let us know what this car's selling price is and I'm sure that either myself or another knowledgeable community member will be happy to tell you what they think.

Car_man
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CarMan@Edmunds

Hey koftheworld. Congrats on getting your new Accord. It's a great value (I've leased a couple of them in the past myself). What is this car's selling price? It should list it on your lease contract. That number will help us to evaluate your deal.

Car_man
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ccosta

I am looking to trade my 2003 ford explorer on a 10000 mile/yr (possibly 12000) 2 year lease for a Honda Accord LX-S 2dr.
Msrp 23,205 Invoice 21,044

Kbb puts my trade in value 6700 for "good" condition, which it is, and it is paid off. I want a just straight up trade (I know it is odd but it fits my unique situation perfectly). I have cash available that I would prefer not to use, but will If I see value.

I chose this model Accord because it seemed to fit the equal trade the closest based on the lease calculators I have been using. I am a using residual of 66% and not sure how/if the money factor is relevant.

I want to be aggressive in what in get in return for my trade, but even trade is almost ideal (ideally I would get cash back). How can I expect the dealer to view this? Am I in the right range as far as MSRP to meet my goal? Overall, how can I maximize the car I get in return for what I am offering?

avalon2000

OK, at 3 yrs/15k, so a 2009 EXL-V6 w/Nav residual is 51%. Is the 2009 EXL-V4 w/Nav, what, 55% :confuse:

Thanks!

fmejia83

I'm being offered $384 a month for 36 months with $750 down to cover first month and inceptions for an 09 accord coupe 4cyl auto with nav. Selling price $24925 residual is 51% for 12k miles and money factor is .00171. Does this look like a good deal?

sleepysoo

you know...if you don't need all that stuff, then i would go with the LX and then just get a separate security system. i mean, if it's not necessary, than you don't need to pay all that extra money for all those other things!

well, based on my calculations, you should be able to get somewhere around $237.42 on up. here are my assumptions to come to that number...remember, i don't know if these have changed for july or not...

money factor: .00207
Residual: 60%
12k miles/year
3 years
8.75% tax (OC tax rate)

Basically, the number i got up there is the invoice price minus the $1500 dealer incentive (they call it a marketing allowance). Without $1500 off, it's $286.11/month.

I hope they're still doing the $1500 dealer marketing allowance. if they are, and all the other numbers are correct, then you should be able to get something between the two numbers i mentioned above...just depends on how much you want the dealership to make!

oh yeah...this is with 0 down. probably need to make 1st month payment and doc fees. but, that number i posted above includes the destination fee. so, don't let them make you pay that up front. if they do, then the payments should be lower!

kingpcgeek

Leasing a Honda with nav is a mistake. You wind up paying for all of the nav during the lease instead of just the depreciation part. Whenever a manufacturer list separate lease factors for non nav and nav versions of a car that is a red flag.

avalon2000

A NYC Honda dealer just gave me the following quote today:

2009 Honda Accord 4-dr sdn 2.4 EX-L w/Nav & auto tran -- $29,315 sticker

Options:
back-up sensors -- $510 retail installed
fog lights - $280 retail installed
all weather mats - $142 retail
splash guards - $101 retail installed
color: optional, prefer white

Adjusted Sticker: $30,348
according to www.truecar.com, without above options, vehicle could be had for $24,500 in the NYC metro area. Add in a reasonable 50% cost of options retail cost, $517 + $24,500 = $25,017 true base cap, but, as seen below, dealer wants a calculated $26,785.

Sign & Drive Lease w/Honda Finance
36 mo./ 15k miles @ yr.
Tier 1 Credit
NYC sales tax 8.375%
Residual 51%
Money Factor .00195
$436 @ mo.

Based upon my Lease Calculator computations for dealer quoted prices, working backwards:

MSRP: 30348
Base Cap Cost: 26785 [dealer asked]
Costs Added to Lease: 195 [doc. fee]
Cap Cost Reductions 0.00
Adjusted Cap Cost: 26785
Residual Value: 15477 [51%]
Money factor: .00195
Term (months) 36
Sales Tax %: 8.375

Monthly Payment: $402.32 + $33.69 tax = $436.01

Depreciation: 11503
Finance (Rent) Charge: 2980
Total Sales Tax: 1213
Total of All Payments: 15696
Total Lease Cost: 15696

If Base Cap Cost is $25,017, as per my above calculation, then monthly lease payment becomes $379.05, tax incl. And this ASSUMES that the Residual value is correctly a low 51%, as this is the same as for the V-6.

ANY COMMENTS???

cinbee

I have been trying to negotiate a lease for a 2009 Accord Coupe LX-S or EX for the past 3 weeks, and I seem to be hitting a wall. I'm working through the internet department as I have in the past for 5 other leases. I thought the economy was bad, but I can't get what I want, unless I'm being unreasonable. What do you think?

So far my quotes for an LX-S 36 mo. 12,000 miles with $1000 out of pocket have been about $280 per month with tax and for the EX same numbers about $300 per month with tax. All the dealers I am talking/seeing are about the same, give or take a dollar or two. Is this high, or is this about right?

I'm limiting myself to $1000 out of pocket since I have a Mazda to return on a lease with a $400 return fee, plus God only knows what excess wear and tear they will charge although car in good shape.

Any ideas or thoughts appreciated! I'm about ready to just buy a bike!!!!
Both auto trans

koftheworld

Thanks for the reply Car_man! Is the selling price the "agreed upon value of the vehicle" on the contract? If so it was $18,867.90.

avalon2000

Being that I have already leased an Acura TL-S & two Honda EXL-V6's all with navigation, I have to say that the Honda unit [I think Alpine manufactured] is far superior than any of the add-on windshield types, and I've used almost all of them on other vehicles, and once hooked one up to one of the Hondas to see the difference, as it was very inferior. Also, the built-ins have dead reckoning whereby if you lose the satellite it automatically switches to the wheel spin to calculate your location, then self-correcting as needed once it picks up the satellite again.

If only someone would figure out how to get the portable units off the windshields and into some universal slip-in space in the dashboard wherein it would also hook into a built-in roof top GPS antenna, then I'd consider it.

Also, had OnStar in my 2003 TL-S, w/Nav as a separate factory built in. Have to say that OnStar is fabulous, worth every penny! Why Acura dropped it I'll never know. I now have it in my 2007 Saab 9-7X 5.3 SUV, and it is still wonderful, it now has turn-by-turn navigation, though I also have the factory built in nav anyway.

sleepysoo

I agree...the factory installed navi is SOOOO much better than the portable ones. i've had several acuras and accords with navi, and i have to say, they're WAYYYYY better than mercedes or bmw's navis.

i also wish they had some kind of universal space that we can put a portable navi into without putting it on the windshield...it's so annoying!!!

but, if i could afford it, i would have most definitely gotten the accord with navi...i just love honda/acura's navigation systems! for the amount i use navigation and for the convenience of it, it's totally worth my money. too bad i'm poor these days!!! :P

ja54

Hello,

Does anyone know the July MF and residual for an EX-L, 12k/yr 36 mo lease?

Thanks,

fmejia83

I was told recently that for a 4 cyl coupe EX-L with navi residual is 51% and for tge top tier MF is .00171. Hope this helps

jlee8071

Thanks sleepysoo. Is the $237 lease payment before or after tax? I got a quote for $250 after tax for LX (3 yr/36K) with around $700 drive-off (1st month, license, doc fees)

thanks

sleepysoo

it's after tax. but, it's with the OC tax rate. the drive offs sound right though!

assuming all the numbers are still the same (MF, residual, etc), that sounds like a decent deal. sounds like they're splitting the difference on the $1500 marketing incentive.

jlee8071

Thanks again.

I'm not sure if residual is the same. The sales person put LX at 57%. I guess your EX has higher residual? The money factor is 0.00171. Is 57% correct?

markonline007

A few newbie items:

First, let me start by thanking the contributors to this post. I have learned so much in the past few weeks of reading about leases (and realized how badly I have been taken advantage of in past leases!). I have three questions:

1. When you call a dealership and ask for the money factor and residual on a particular vehicle, how does one know they are providing accurate information? They could give you a residual percent a point or two lower to hide some of the profit they are trying to get knowing that you will be calculating your own payment.

2. Having said that, could someone provide the latest money factor and residual % on a 2009 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L (no nav, V4) 36 month lease, 15K miles per year?

3. Why does the lease calculator on Edmunds.com ask for the mileage per year on the lease vehicle? If you are entering the residual you received from the dealer based on your mileage per year, what else is the form doing to the calculation with that information? I've been calculating on my own spreadsheet as I look at cars but if I'm not mistaken this is a flaw with the automated form.

Thanks again,
Mark

kingpcgeek

When you call a dealership and ask for the money factor and residual on a particular vehicle, how does one know they are providing accurate information? They could give you a residual percent a point or two lower to hide some of the profit they are trying to get knowing that you will be calculating your own payment.

They CANNOT change the residual. That is set by the finance company (AHFC in this case). Some will markup the MF, but I have never heard of a Honda dealer doing so, so I don' t know if AHFC allows them to do it.

th83

Money Factor (for all Accord models):

0.00171 (or 4.1%) for top tier

Residual Values (sedans only):

12k miles/year - LX, LX-P, EX I4 = 57%; EX V6 = 56%; EX-L I4 = 55%;

15k miles/year - LX, LX-P, EX I4 = 55%; EX V6 = 54%; EX-L I4 = 53%

I don't know the residuals for the coupes, but their residuals are usually 1-2% lower than the sedans. Nav-equipped models have an even lower residual, but I'm not sure if it's 1 or 2 % lower. As for the EX-L V6, the only residuals I've seen posted for this month have been for nav-equipped models at 51% with a 15k mile/year allowance. I can only assume that the residual value for an EX-L V6 non-Navi with 12k/year is 54%.

sleepysoo

wow...so they lowered the money factor, but lowered the residual from last month! eh...probably evens out at the end...a lot changes in a month!

jlee8071 - here's how the numbers look with the above mentioned residuals and money factor...

at Invoice: $268.48 (without tax...add your county tax to this)

w/ $1500 marketing incentive: $224.21/month (w/o tax)

so, try to work something in between. you should be getting a good deal! good luck!

avalon2000

Not to bash Honda, wherein I currently lease a 2006 Accord EXL-V-6 w/Nav and absolutely love it! ... but look what Toyota is now up to for their top of the line 2010 Camry XLE 4DR SDN w/Nav [has std back up camera too!]:

2010 Camry XLE 4DR SDN w/Nav
36 mo/15K
Tier 1+ [need min. 730 credit score]

fixed $ residual: $18,052 [55+%]
fixed money factor: .00048
fixed Toyota Fin. Orig Fee: $650
$500 new lease rebate

... but this exact vehicle requires Premium gas, though insurance rate much lower for Camry than Accord in my GEICO experience [20%+], with a AAA non-blemished insurance record.

markonline007

Signed the lease for my car, thank you for the help outlined here.

I know I did better than before with this knowledge but there were still some parts of the transaction that were unclear so I have this sinking feeling I could have done better.

Northern New Jersey
2009 Honda Accord EX-L
36 Month Lease
15,000 Per Year
Monthly Payment with Tax: $340
Out of Pocket: $600
MSRP: 26,925.00
Gross Capitalized Cost: $24,389.50
Money Factor: .00171
Residual: 53%
Captilized Cost Reduction: $244.20 (the portion of the $600 they used for cap cost reduction, with the other $340 going to first month and then two misc fees for the remaining $15.80 (tire fee, on-line processing fee)).
Adjusted Capitalized Cost: 24,145.30

When I calculate the above terms, I get a monthly payment of $364. My $340 looks good then, as it should based on the $1500 dealer cash being offered, so I know that they still aren't loosing money. But I'm wondering how much closer should the Gross Capitalized Cost been to the invoice price? How does one know how close they can get the dealership to the invoice price? Should I have been more aggressive? Getting the payment below $340 met serious resistance at three separate dealerships, which let me walk, so I felt like I must have been near the bottom?!!?

Also, one thing I missed from reading the posts here was the bank fee. I followed the advice to put only the first months payment and doc fees out of pocket. They also wanted another $595 in bank fees. I told them to roll that in since I was unsure how to handle based the advice here.

Any Monday morning quarterbacking is welcome and I hope the details of my deal help others.

Mark

th83

I've been thinking about this a lot lately (and the last post kinda adds to my anxiety over the situation), but are dealers less willing to deal on the price of the car when it comes to leasing?

For example, I see many people in the prices paid forum stating that they only paid $22,500 or $22,700 or [insert low price here] + TTL for a 2009 Accord EX-L I4 automatic sedan. However, here in the leasing forum, you very rarely see anyone lease that same car with such a low selling price (and that's why the previous post makes me nervous).

I was planning on going into my local dealer on Friday (the 31st) and offering $22,500 for an EX-L I4 when it came down to negotiation time, but now I'm afraid that they might say something to the effect of, "Well, if you were buying the car, we could accept that. However, since you're leasing, the best we can do is $24,000." That would make a huge difference in my monthly payment. With a base cap cost of $22,500, 12k miles/year allowance, factoring in all fees and my state's tax of 3%, I've calculated that I'd pay about $330/month (give or take a few dollars) on a sign and drive lease, and around $300/month with $1000 out of pocket. A selling price of $24,000 would raise those payments by $43-44.

It also seems apparent (in my experience) that dealers don't want to talk about the price of the car when it comes to leasing. It's all about the payment amount, and they like to dance around the selling price by saying "Well, you could get the payment you want if you just put down $X". It's like they figure the lessee won't mind how much money they put down as long as the monthly payment is what they want. That doesn't sit right with me, so I think I'm going to wait until we get the price negotiated before saying "with that price, I should be able to lease it for around $XXX with only $XXX down, right?". I wonder if I'll be able to get away with that?

So, would it be foolish of me to go in on Friday insisting that I get a selling price of $22,500 for an EX-L I4 on a lease? Or should I expect to be turned down and told that's not possible on a lease? I'm hoping that if I go in on the last day of the month, a miracle might happen. I guess we'll see...

sloanesq

Hi. A friend is leasing an Accord LX and the dealer is charging a "destination fee." He is also collecting tax on the destination fee. Can someone tell me if A. the fee is legit and B. it is taxable?

th83

A destination fee is charged on every car sold in the US. It covers the cost of transporting a vehicle from its point of assembly to a dealership. It is legit, it's non-negotiable (no matter how little you pay for a particular new Accord model, you're still paying the full $670 or $710 destination charge), and it is taxable because it's included in the vehicle's price.

sloanesq

Thanks for the info. In case anyone is interested, he's paying $263/mo. including EVERYTHING ($0 down) for a 36 month lease on an Accord LX.

looking4maxima

Thanks for all the help in this forum, I thought I would post the deal I received in order to help others:

Tampa Florida Area
2009 Honda Accord EX-L 4CYL
36 Month Lease
15,000 Per Year
Monthly Payment with Tax: $375.52
Out of Pocket: $1042.36
MSRP: 27,115
Gross Capitalized Cost: $24,830.42
Adjusted Capitalized Cost: 24,516.70

Thanks again for the help. My purchase price for the car was $23,640 +595 dealer fee +595 lease acquisition fee.

sleepysoo

You know, you should go in with a number in your head! What's the worst they can say...no? then you go to another dealership and deal and haggle!!

For me, I work with monthly payments when it comes to leases b/c I already know what the monthly payments should look like if were paying X amount for a car. So, in essence, I'm working with both numbers.

Sure...they ALWAYS say, "you can get it with this much down..." but then all you have to do is say "NO...i want it at that price with 0 down". Make them work. It's always worked for me, and I got my current 2009 Accord EX at under invoice.

I know they say never to go in with monthly payments, but with a final sale price of the car, but if you know what you're doing, it should be fine. Just do some research, plug in some numbers, and go and deal in whichever way you want. The money factor (if you have good credit and you know what the mf is) and residuals don't change at all, so whether you negotiate based on monthly payments or overall sales price of the car, your numbers should come out the same. It has for me!

toyoman8

Ok can some one tell me if this is a good deal.

I live in Texas

ex-l accord 2009 4dr 4cyl LEASE
some options like: Mud guards, Window tint, pin stripe

36x12k
$3500 out of pocket total
293 a mos includes Hazard protection and 3 year service (free oil, rotation, all the maintanace for 3 year is free)

Buy out is $14,400

I belive the sale price was $24,000

anzuelo

Car_man

I'm on the market again for a lease of a 2009 Honda Accord EX-L 4CYL, 36 months, 12K miles/year. Could you please help me with the residual percent and the money factor values ?

I'm living in south Florida area

Thanks in advance

th83

Thanks for the advice, sleepysoo!

I've done the research, I've seen what others are paying for the car in the prices paid forum, and I know the money factor and residual. However, what I don't know is whether or not the marketing support applies to leases anymore. I know they stopped allowing the marketing support to be combined with the special financing offers, but what about leases? The sale prices that I've seen posted for leases have been significantly higher than what people have been buying the car for as of late. Now, due to that difference in price, I have to assume that the $1500 in marketing support can no longer be combined with the lease offer. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

That $1500 pretty much makes or breaks my future lease, as I don't want to pay more than $300 (give or take a few bucks) per month, and I don't want to put any money down (I've made that mistake before). At $22,400 ($23,394 total cap cost, after acquisition fee and doc fee), my lease payment for an EX-L I4 sedan would be ~$310/month (including the 3% NC tax) with only the first month's payment and DMV fees due at signing. At $23,900 ($24,894 total cap cost, which seems to be what other lessees are paying lately), my payment would balloon to ~$355 per month with no cap cost reduction. So, without the marketing support, I'd pretty much have to put $1500 down or lease an EX or LX-P to reach my target payment.

That's why I've gotta know if the marketing support still applies to leases! :P

markonline007

It is my understanding that the $1500 applies to leases. My dealer mentioned it when I was negotiating my lease.

The thing I wonder is that there seems to be some resistance to figuring a lease payment off of a price that would be achievable in a purchase. As previously noted, contributors to this forum have reported $22,400 as a purchase price on a EX-L I4 but based on the math this would equal a lease payment around $300 as you said. However, nobody has been able to achieve a payment this low leaving me to believe that they won't/don't/can't start the negotiations from that point.

The only other thing I wanted to point out is that no money down = first month payment + DMV costs (around $300 in my case in NJ) + bank fee of $595. Don't forget to figure in the bank fee; whether you roll it into your payments of pay it up front it was a surprise I didn't calculate into my assumptions.

These are just my observations I may be totally off base.

kingpcgeek

The only other thing I wanted to point out is that no money down = first month payment + DMV costs (around $300 in my case in NJ) + bank fee of $595.

That is not entirely an accurate statement. Many people consider no money down to mean first months payment only, while rolling the dmv and bank fee into the lease.

th83

The bank fee is also known as the AHFC acquisition fee. On my current lease, they rolled it, along with the dealer's ridiculous $399 doc fee (pure profit, I'm sure), into the cap cost of the vehicle. The DMV fees and first month's payment only added up to be about $425 or so, which I'm hoping will be the same for this next lease.

I haven't been in a Honda dealer since my current Accord was being serviced back in February. That day, while waiting, I test-drove an EX-L sedan and after that, they ran some numbers for me (they really wanted to put me in a new car that day, of course :P ). At that point, I had 7 payments remaining on my current lease, which added up to over 2 grand. Not only that, but they determined that, even in excellent condition, my car's trade-in value was over $3k less than the payoff amount. Even so, they swore my payment would be less than $320, but only if I put down $2000. However, even though they really wanted to make a sale that day, they still suggested that it would be in my best interest to wait until I was closer to the end of my lease (surprisingly thoughtful of them, actually). So, I decided to wait (obviously). I had planned on waiting until October, but AHFC sent me a letter back in June stating that I was pre-approved and that they would pay up to 3 remaining payments on my current lease. That got me back into the market again.

Back in February, they never told me exactly how much negative equity I would've rolled into the new lease, but if it was anywhere near the $3k+ difference between the car's value and the payoff amount, I may have been able to get the car for $310-320/month with $0 down without the negative equity. It should be even better now with the 2009 clearance, increased marketing support ($1500 vs. $750 in February), and lower money factor, but I guess it really depends on the individual dealer. The salesman I dealt with back in February was a really nice guy, and he got right down to business, bringing out his manager right away to try to give me the best deal he could (with his manager's approval). This same dealership's internet salesman, on the other hand, wanted to play hard-ball a few weeks ago with quotes so high that I didn't even feel like making counter-offers. He told me via e-mail that my payments would be $338/month plus tax with $1000 out of pocket for an EX-L I4 automatic. Crazy considering that's about the same amount they wanted 5 months ago when I had significant negative equity. I'd also asked for quotes on an EX I4 automatic and an EX V6 sedan, and he replied with $298 and $333, respectively, both with $1000 out of pocket. Needless to say, I decided to wait...again.

I'm hoping that the end of this month will bring better deals, but we'll see. The only problem with waiting until the end of this month is the dwindling dealer supply of Accords. Just a few days ago, Hendrick had 115 Accords on their lot. They're now down to 95. At this rate, they may run out of Accords by the time I decide to act. I hope not, but as long as they still have at least one Mystic Green Metallic EX-L sedan on the lot on August 31st, I'll be happy

toyoman8

Leased a car in Texas. Leather, Tint, Mud Guards, Maintenance Package for 3 years

Payed $24,500
36mx12k
$3500 down
$263 payments

good deal?