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http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/accessoriesjsp/accessorydetail.jsp?make=chevrolet&mo- - del=tahoe&year=2006&detail=06_TAH_80NSJ353&sid=8727298735325721
Try ebay and other aftermarket suppliers.
The local lousy dealer said maybe I need to change all the rear sensors and might need to change other sensors somewhere inside the car.
Hoping for your kindly assistance
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Thx
I'd say $26k for a `04 is too high. One internet search showed prices in the $22k range in the Minneaoplis area. We paid a little more than that when we bought out 2003 Tahoe used in fall of 2003 (1 year old truck).
Consider a Saturn Outlook or GMC Acadia? Similar in size to the Tahoe, but much more car like in driving style. Base models start under $30k
--jay
We're in the market for a Yukon Denali, but considering we might be nearing the end of a "model year", would rather wait for an '08, avoid the depreciation hit, or find better incentives for '07's they're trying to clear out. Our salesman says there "probably" won't be better incentives since his Yukons were flying off the lot, and we might be waiting until October/November for an '08. Of course, he had 20 Yukons sitting there, I re-test drove the same one a week later, and I'm looking for other opinions.
I have always liked the Tahoe. I have recently started a new job where I can work 100% from home so I can splurge a little on the mileage. Honestly, the Tahoe is probably the only American truck I would consider- I have thought about the Subaru Tribeca, but it is really lacking for power; and amenities.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tom S.
Donovan
I had a 1999 Suburban and it pulled great. I don't know what deal is it should be able to handle towing that trailer
Something you "may" want to check is the clearance between the rear springs and the frame rail. After having some work done on mine, I ended up with the spring scuffing the frame rail, making what I think might possibly be the same noise you and tony20fan are hearing. All I had to do to address the situation was to drop the shock and jack up the body until I was able to move the spring over to a more inboard spot on it's perch (roughly 1/4 - 3/8"). Hopefully it is something simple like that for your vehicles as well!
Happy hunting!
I have no real idea why you'd have lost any transmission fluid though.
I agree with above post on 5.7 vs 5.3.
As far as losing tranny fluid goes, I would guess that your tranny got VERY hot. If you haven't already done so, I would change the tranny fluid and filter, I would also add an aftermarket auxillary tranny cooler. I put one on my 03 Burb, it cost about $50, but its a whole lot cheaper than a new tranny.
BTW can you elaborate on "it sucks towing", some details would be helpful if you want more insightful answers to your problem.
I have a portable GPS unit and I'm trying to configure a mounting system for this that would sit securely in this area.
My current mounting apparatus is a 2 1/2" round plate w/slots for machine screws. Does anyone know what lies directly underneath that storage area - or how thick its base is (safe to place a few 1" machine screw through w/o damaging anything underneath)?
Thanks in advance for any info.
Bill
Firesource
Of course you can always fall back on the ubquitous duct tape.
Anyone else tried mounting anything in that area? My truck is being built the week of 4/23 --- and I did not spring for the Bose audio system. Perhaps w/o that subwoofer, I might be able to install as originally discussed.
Thanks again for any other comments / ideas!
They basically "popped" the standard black insert out(remove the cupholder, the remove the insert), then just popped the newer part in. If you wanted to drill holes I'd recommend pulling the insert from the center console area, checking under it to make sure you'll have clearance, possibly drilling / mounting the plate while it's still out, then reinstalling the whole thing.
Or you could just go the easier, probably safer and in the long term, less destructive route. That being, adhesive, hook-and-loop, etc. Then, as others have said, if you ever change your mind, or trade the Tahoe, you can use something like Goo Gone to clean up, and essentially have it returned to factory stock appearance without having to buy another replacement insert.
Yes, there ARE electronics under there, and I could not figure out how to remove the "box" as apparently is possible. I simply removed and losened everything I could on the left side of the console assembly and was able to get my arm up and under the front part of the console. I then felt around and decided that I could use some short sheet metal screws, but there was limited clearance. I carefully drilled some small pilot holes thru the bottom of the "box" and used the drill bit as a feeler gage to see how much clearance I had. Think I used 1" sheet metal screws, but don't remember exactly - I may have used several lengths since the RAM had four mounting holes in the circular base.
All worked out OK (perhaps I was lucky) but with some care, it can be done without removing the "box".
I needed to connect the remote GPS antenna, since the unit installed in that spot sits to low to acquire satellites, and wanted it on the left hand side of the dash, as close to the corner as possible. I snaked the antenna lead between the front left side of the dash and the windshield molding down behind the dash to the hidden front of the console and into the "box" area. I don't know if the roof mounted antenna is standard or if any leads installed. Might want to check out how the GM/Chevy GPS factory units are wired up are and/or routed.
To power the Lowrance unit, I went through the back of the "box" into and between the cup holders and into the main console in order to use the cigarette lighter adapter in the console which now powers the GPS.
End result, a nice clean solid installation with wires hidden. It's been working fine for me for about 10 months now. If you want some photos of the finished installation, send an e-mail to chuck@sprick.net and I'll shoot a couple and send them to you.
Be sure to tell him how easy it is to sign up for himself!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
In any case, so far as I know nearly *all* vehicles have hydraulic brakes, and I've seen plenty of other vehicles being flat-towed, including at least one Silverado. So I'm not sure what he means about the hydraulic brakes making it unable to be towed.
The site I'll send the link for includes pictures in at least one of the topics covering the subject, so it'll be easier to understand. But here's the basics so far as I've found (having to search those forums to find the posts where I read about it- I have actually been debating doing the woodgrain lidded console replacement thing in my Av).
1) Remove anything from the large rectangular area (including the cupholder assembly- it just snaps out).
2) Gently, but firmly lift up on the rear edge of the large rectangular bin. The clips should come out of the holes they fasten into (clips run around the edge of the assembly just under the 'lip' that overlaps onto the console itself).
I believe that's all there is to it. But I'll send you a private message in your CarSpace area once I find the relevent post(s) at the other site.
Also, I can't seem to verify mileage on the XL. Does anyone know if there is much difference?
Thanks for any thoughts!
Kim
I love my SUV, but wanted better fuel economy. For months, I thought I was going to buy an Acadia or Enclave. Then I test-drove an Acadia immediately followed by the Denali. I realized then I am just not ready to give up the luxurious ride and space of the big SUV. I also found out how much I hate the FWD format when accelerting or turning fast. So, until gas gets over $4 a gallon I will bite the bullet and keep an SUV....
In deciding between Yukon/Tahoe vs Denali, and regular vs XL, I would love some more advice from this forum;
1) Any of you with the AFM engines have a heavy foot in the interstate and willing to report your fuel economy? (I currently get 12-13 mpg with my Denali. It could probably be 15-16 on the interstate except that we typically drive 80-85 mph, and probably aren't going to change. Before anyone starts railing on my, let me say I drive on low-traffic roads, I have driven approx 800,000 miles, and never been in an accident).
The Denali doesn't come with AFM. I could theoretically get a Yukon/Tahoe and add all of the options that are on the Denali. I would like to buy the AFM even if it saves me just 1-2 MPG, but I wonder if it really will because of the way I drive.
2) Anyone else really compared the ride of the Denali to a Yukon/Tahoe with autoride suspension? The salesman told me they should be the same, but it seemed to me the Denali ride was still much better.
3) Thoughts on the AWD vs the 4WD in serious snow? My Denali was the last year they made it with real 4WD, so I am concerned that a new Denali won't do as well. We don't get many blizzards in Indiana, but it costs me a lot of revenue to miss work. Even 2-3 days a year of serious snow is worth a lot to me. It looks like the Yukons only have 0.1 inches more of ground clearance than the Denali, so that isn't significant.
4)Am I understanding correctly that nothing from the factory is configured so that you can listen to a CD while your kids are watching a DVD in the back?! Stupid SH** likes that makes me wonder who is smoking what when they design these things... why can't they offer the 6-disc CD changer in the center console like my 2000 Denali has... I admit we are starting to use our MP3 more than CD's but to leave that out of a $40,000+ vehicle is infuriating.
5)I understand why GM doesn't offer bluetooth (though it again annoys me) and I love the OnStar safety features. The plans they offer of adding hands-free phone service with Verizon are a little unclear to me. For those of you with such a plan, how much extra are you really paying to use the Verizon phone account this way? Does it limit anything else such as family plans, etc?
6)More thoughts on Yukon vs Yukon XL... sure I can live with the regular length but would always like more. I can squeeze the XL in my garage but am more concerned about parking. The only place the Denali gives me trouble is in city parking garages, which I rarely use.
I am also wondering if anyone puts a dog behind the folded-forward 3rd seat. The mat behind the 3rd seat wouldn't come up to it when it is folded forward, which could leave the dog hair (or also anything that gets spilled back there) to be a real mess. I wouldn't be taking the 3rd seats out often as we will sometimes be picking up extra kids. This practicality is what originally had me looking at only fold-flat 3rd rows and now has me thinking about a longer vehicle so we can still get dogs/groceries/etc on a mat. Share your thoughts/regrets with me on the XLs....