Small accident on my YUKON 07’ “rear bumper”. Al sensors were not affected except the first on the right rear. It was not broken but the wire inside was almost damaged; service park assist was on the drive information center (DIC). I fixed the wire but still the same message. How could I know that the sensor is ok or not? Do I have to change all the sensors? Does it need to reprogram? Please help. The local lousy dealer said maybe I need to change all the rear sensors and might need to change other sensors somewhere inside the car. Hoping for your kindly assistance
I keep getting the error below. Do you have special access to the gmgoodwrench.com site? I tried logging on to the site but my options for parts were limited.
"This server has encountered an internal error which prevents it from fulfilling your request. The most likely cause is a misconfiguration. Please ask the administrator to look for messages in the server's error log."
The upgraded console you are referring to was part of a mid-year upgrade to the Tahoe. The woodgrain console cover is part of the LTZ package. You do not need to buy an entire console. I know because I went through the same process as you are going through. What you need is GM part # 15943546. This part is available through GM, or you can order it online. The best price I found on this item was through gmpartsdirect.com. Type in this part number in the search line. The part that comes up is described as a bezel, which sounds confusing. This is the woodgrain console cover. This part snaps in place in place of the current black console/cupholder unit. Installation takes about 3 mins. The price for this part including shipping was about $110.00 delivered, which is a long way from $800. If you buy one of these on e-bay, make sure that you get one for a Tahoe. If you buy the unit for the Yukon, it will not match as the Yukon woodgrain is darker. Hope this helps
Thanks for the information. Just one question.. the web site doesn't have 2007 model year for the Tahoe listed. How did you locate the part number? If I have to order other parts for the 2007 tahoe from this website what would be the best way to search? When I tried searching for the part number you provided for the 2006 model year (since that's the latest on the site) I came up with "not found". I appreciate your help.
I found the part number on another web site. On the gmpartsdirect.com site, there is a space in the upper left hand corner of the home page to type in part numbers. Simply type in this part number in the space provided and click on go. Do not enter any model year info. In order to purchase other parts through this site, I believe you would either need to know the part number or email them and tell them what you are looking for. Hope this helps
Being a Tahoe and Subaru owner, I'd say wait until you can afford a 2007 (new or used). I'd guess some are coming off lease or showing up on lots maybe this fall. The `07 models are just way better than the older models. The pre `07 models drive and feel way more like a truck and nothing like a Subaru.
I'd say $26k for a `04 is too high. One internet search showed prices in the $22k range in the Minneaoplis area. We paid a little more than that when we bought out 2003 Tahoe used in fall of 2003 (1 year old truck).
Consider a Saturn Outlook or GMC Acadia? Similar in size to the Tahoe, but much more car like in driving style. Base models start under $30k
We're in the market for a Yukon Denali, but considering we might be nearing the end of a "model year", would rather wait for an '08, avoid the depreciation hit, or find better incentives for '07's they're trying to clear out. Our salesman says there "probably" won't be better incentives since his Yukons were flying off the lot, and we might be waiting until October/November for an '08. Of course, he had 20 Yukons sitting there, I re-test drove the same one a week later, and I'm looking for other opinions.
Thanks for the info, Jay. I have actually noticed a few 2007's listed on some websites as coming off Lease. After you suggested it, I took a look and do see some. That would push it over the $30k mark, but as the months tick by, the prices should come down. Also, being in New England, people tend to forget about the snow around May/June and look to other trucks/cars. Plus, with gas moving up again, you never know who will unload.
I have always liked the Tahoe. I have recently started a new job where I can work 100% from home so I can splurge a little on the mileage. Honestly, the Tahoe is probably the only American truck I would consider- I have thought about the Subaru Tribeca, but it is really lacking for power; and amenities.
Ok, I know this may sound weird, but it has happened many times in my Tahoe and was wondering if it had happened to anyone else. When I have accelerated and then let my foot off the gas suddenly (like when accelerating and then the light turns yellow and I must stop), I hear a sound that sounds exactly like a small, foreign car horn honk. At first, that's what I thought it was. (I have given many a dirty look in error.) Then it was happening when cars weren't around. Passengers have heard it, too, so I'm not totally crazy. I don't know what it is, but it lasts about 3 seconds and it doesn't happen consistently. I happened today and I haven't heard it for about a month. Maybe it's unique to mine, but since others have heard the "zap" noise from the radio as I have, I thought perhaps others may have heard a "small-car horn" sound. Thanks for reading this!! :>)
They come with the new LTZs along with chrome door handles and mirror caps. I'm sure you can order thru your parts dept or someplace like gmpartsdirect. Also may be on ebay.
I've noticed my overall gas mileage dropping and dropping. I usually make a 320 mile round trip of which 90% is on highways. I used to average about 18-19 MPG. The last few weeks, my aveage for the same trip has been about 15 MPG. I have almost 26,500 miles on my '07 Tahoe.I checked tire pressure and it was right on the money.. I deceided to look at the air filter. It really didn't look bad but i bought a new one anyway. Well.. I replaced it before this weeks trip and guess what.. I averaged 20 MPG on the same 320 mile trip.. An amazing recovery for just replacing the air filter. If you notice your mileage dropping, check your air filter.. Steve
Just traded my 2004 Tahoe Z71 for a 2007 Tahoe Z71. I can't believe the difference in the ride quality! Even those Bridgestone AT tires are amazingly quiet compared to the Goodyears that were on my 2004. Those comments I heard about a smoother ride, even with the Z71 package, hold true. Now for the down side, less than 48 hours after driving out of the dealership, I was back with a major leak from the right rear shock. None in stock, so they ordered and it was there overnite. While it was up on the rack, they found another leak in the front coming from the steering gear assembly! That part they had in stock and fixed it but they had to do a complete alignment which left me roaming the dealership drooling over the 2 Corvettes they had on the floor. Anyway, love the new Tahoe with all the extra goodies I've always wanted (Nav system, etc.).
My 2007 tahoe is doing the same thing...when i turn corners and accelerating. It is in the shop now again for the 5 time for the same problem along with many more. I have told them about that weird horn noise every time, and they have rode with them and hear the noise also however can not fix it. Or they say we could not duplicate the problem. i am about to file a lemon law if they can not fix the problem, b/c it is getting worse and I am tired of going back to get it fixed!
I just started towing with my 05 Yukon XL and it sucked. So added 410 gears and a diablosport, this did help. The trailer weight is 5500 pounds. This weekend I had it out and coming back over the hills is lost about a quart of tranie fluid. Does anyone have any idea to why?
I had a 1999 Suburban and it pulled great. I don't know what deal is it should be able to handle towing that trailer
lahunter2 - Something you "may" want to check is the clearance between the rear springs and the frame rail. After having some work done on mine, I ended up with the spring scuffing the frame rail, making what I think might possibly be the same noise you and tony20fan are hearing. All I had to do to address the situation was to drop the shock and jack up the body until I was able to move the spring over to a more inboard spot on it's perch (roughly 1/4 - 3/8"). Hopefully it is something simple like that for your vehicles as well! Happy hunting!
Did your 99 Suburban have a 5.7l (350ci) V8, or the more recent 5.3l? While the 5.3l (supposedly) makes more overall power and torque, it's weaker on the bottom end. That makes the 5.7 better for towing, where that extra low-end grunt edge it has over the 5.3l shows up most of all. You have to keep the 5.3l wound up a bit more to get at its power.
I have no real idea why you'd have lost any transmission fluid though.
How many people and/or cargo did you have in the Tahoe? Do you have a tranny cooler? (I'm not sure if the Tahoe comes with one or not). I'm guessing the loss of tranny fluid is from over heating of the transmission. Did you use the tow/haul mode? Did it shift in/out of overdrive a lot?
My wife and I were on a road trip last weekend, and she was driving. When she accelerated to about 90mph to pass another vehicle, the rear plastic cover on the top of the lift gate flew off. We knew it flew off because we had two bicycles on a hitch rack, and it hit the bikes and made a loud noise. Initially I thought one of the bikes flew off. When I pulled over I noticed the entire cover (including third brake light) was gone. The bikes were not able to make contact with this piece, so that was instantly ruled out as a cause. Has anybody else had anything fly off while driving? Hopefully Chevy will warranty the part. I only have 8k miles.
I'm sure they'll cover it (no pun intended). The 2003 Trailblazer I used to have also had problems with that piece. It sounds like it's still attached with the 3M molding adhesive tape type stuff on the 07's too. I noticed that the TB's was loose while washing it at a car wash (higher pressure wand had it coming up about 1/4" or so from the glass), so I took it to my dealership and they took care of the problem. I didn't see / ask what they did specifically, but it didn't come up again afterwards. I am a bit surprised it took the 3rd brake light with it though. I'd have thought the wiring harness would've kept at least part of that housing from going with the cover and the red lens part!
It was really windy/gusty when we were driving, and I guess combined with the 90mph speed it just up and went. The clip is still there though where it plugs into the third brake light.
As far as losing tranny fluid goes, I would guess that your tranny got VERY hot. If you haven't already done so, I would change the tranny fluid and filter, I would also add an aftermarket auxillary tranny cooler. I put one on my 03 Burb, it cost about $50, but its a whole lot cheaper than a new tranny.
BTW can you elaborate on "it sucks towing", some details would be helpful if you want more insightful answers to your problem.
I think its the spoiler your were talking about with the 3rd brake light incorporated in it that got flew off? There must be something wrong with the fastener or a cracked piece inside the spoiler. After reading your post and the reply from 'jerrywimer', I had a close look at mine (07 Yukon Denali). Its absolutely NOT attached by 3M tapes (if there is any used at all), instead the spoiler is installed with screws to each of the rear glass hinges and possibly 3 more to the rear glass as well, there may be more clips under the spoiler that I can not see. For those that are attached using only 3M Tapes are mostly after market add-ons either installed by your dealership or a previous owner, very unlikely to be OEM... Anyhow, I hope by now your dealership has already replaced it for you under warranty.
Hate to break it to you, but the 03 Trailblazer I had was new off the lot, and I wasn't the only owner of those vehicles to notice issues with the painted plastic "spoiler" coming loose / off. Not that I have a problem with GM using fasteners of any sort on newer vehicles- I'd hope that they would improve their designs to address any issues they've had in the past (aka learn from their mistakes). So I'm glad to hear that your Yukon is different. Though that brings up the question of why tony97gt's Tahoe spoiler was able to come off, even at that speed with crosswinds.
My spoiler was OEM and I am the only owner. My vehicle is 1yr old and has 8k miles. It appeared at first glance that the screws underneath the glass would run all the way through to the spoiler, but a closer look revealed they dont.
Can someone who has an '07 LT Tahoe (w/bucket seats and center console) please share the dimensions (LxWxH) of the storage area in the center console? I'm looking for the dimensions of the rectangular area that sits between the cup holders and the dash board.
I have a portable GPS unit and I'm trying to configure a mounting system for this that would sit securely in this area.
My current mounting apparatus is a 2 1/2" round plate w/slots for machine screws. Does anyone know what lies directly underneath that storage area - or how thick its base is (safe to place a few 1" machine screw through w/o damaging anything underneath)?
The Bose subwoofer is located under the portion of the console you're referring to. Don't know how much clearance you'd have for screws. How about a couple of strips of Velcro? Of course you can always fall back on the ubquitous duct tape.
Thanks for the idea. I'm using a set of RAM mounts, and they do make a specially sized 2.5" round double/sided tape disk that can eliminate the need for drilling holes. I was hesitant to use that, as it may leave a sticky residue when the base is removed (which I guess could not be any worse than screw holes....).
Anyone else tried mounting anything in that area? My truck is being built the week of 4/23 --- and I did not spring for the Bose audio system. Perhaps w/o that subwoofer, I might be able to install as originally discussed.
You can always use Goo Gone or Disolv-it to remove the adhesive residue. I personally don't blind drill into anything. Guy at work did and got to talk to 440 volts. :sick:
I have all kinds of 2 way radio gear, and GPS in my Tahoe. I also run Sirius satellite in addition to the XM which came with the truck. Most of this stuff is mounted on RAM mounts. To secure the RAM mount base, I use RTV silicone. I disassemble the mount and use the just base. I put 3 drops on it, and set it gently down in the desired location. When that stuff dries, you have an amazingly secure mount which can be removed with a putty knife and razor blade later on.
That whole rectangular storage area is held in the center console with clips, and can be removed fairly easily. The latest Avalanche LTZ models off the line now come with the covered plastic wood grain storage bin / cupholder assembly that the Yukon Denalis have had from the beginning (the only difference being the color of the fake wood matching the Tahoe / Suburban / Avalanche interior rather than the darker GMC stuff). Some folks on another Avalanche forum I'm a member of with earlier build Avalanches (like mine), having the black plastic bin like the Tahoe you're mentioning, have replaced theirs with the newer style.
They basically "popped" the standard black insert out(remove the cupholder, the remove the insert), then just popped the newer part in. If you wanted to drill holes I'd recommend pulling the insert from the center console area, checking under it to make sure you'll have clearance, possibly drilling / mounting the plate while it's still out, then reinstalling the whole thing.
Or you could just go the easier, probably safer and in the long term, less destructive route. That being, adhesive, hook-and-loop, etc. Then, as others have said, if you ever change your mind, or trade the Tahoe, you can use something like Goo Gone to clean up, and essentially have it returned to factory stock appearance without having to buy another replacement insert.
I did, in fact, install a RAM Mount for my Lowrance iWay 500 GPS in my brand new '07 Tahoe, exactly like you want to do. The IWay 500 is a LARGE screen heavy GPS unit, with a hard drive, so takes up a lot of space and, I feel, needs a solid mounting.
Yes, there ARE electronics under there, and I could not figure out how to remove the "box" as apparently is possible. I simply removed and losened everything I could on the left side of the console assembly and was able to get my arm up and under the front part of the console. I then felt around and decided that I could use some short sheet metal screws, but there was limited clearance. I carefully drilled some small pilot holes thru the bottom of the "box" and used the drill bit as a feeler gage to see how much clearance I had. Think I used 1" sheet metal screws, but don't remember exactly - I may have used several lengths since the RAM had four mounting holes in the circular base.
All worked out OK (perhaps I was lucky) but with some care, it can be done without removing the "box".
I needed to connect the remote GPS antenna, since the unit installed in that spot sits to low to acquire satellites, and wanted it on the left hand side of the dash, as close to the corner as possible. I snaked the antenna lead between the front left side of the dash and the windshield molding down behind the dash to the hidden front of the console and into the "box" area. I don't know if the roof mounted antenna is standard or if any leads installed. Might want to check out how the GM/Chevy GPS factory units are wired up are and/or routed.
To power the Lowrance unit, I went through the back of the "box" into and between the cup holders and into the main console in order to use the cigarette lighter adapter in the console which now powers the GPS.
End result, a nice clean solid installation with wires hidden. It's been working fine for me for about 10 months now. If you want some photos of the finished installation, send an e-mail to chuck@sprick.net and I'll shoot a couple and send them to you.
I was telling a friend of mine about this great website to discuss my 07 Tahoe. He asked if I'd inquire of all of you if the 07 Avalanche braking system would allow it to be towed behind a motorhome. He has an 05 Av that has hydraulic brakes and is unable to be towed. He wants an 07, but needs to be able to tow it. Does anyone know, or does he need to go with the Tahoe? Thanks so much.
I'd love to be able to help, but I've never towed (or even looked into towing) anything other than a 2004 front wheel drive car (using a U-Haul tow dolly, so the drive wheels were on the dolly). I'm guessing that the RV needs to tap into the braking system of the towed vehicle to use them the same way that normal brake controllers are used with trailers?
In any case, so far as I know nearly *all* vehicles have hydraulic brakes, and I've seen plenty of other vehicles being flat-towed, including at least one Silverado. So I'm not sure what he means about the hydraulic brakes making it unable to be towed.
The GPS antenna is separate from the roof mounted external antenna. The one on the roof of the 07's is a combined XM / OnStar cellular antenna (assuming you have either, or both of those). I believe the factory GPS antenna is located somewhere under the dash.
I've tried making private contact with you through your CarSpace page, since I don't want to post any links here to other forums. The last I'd heard, Edmunds' frowns on that (okay, maybe more than frowns! ).
The site I'll send the link for includes pictures in at least one of the topics covering the subject, so it'll be easier to understand. But here's the basics so far as I've found (having to search those forums to find the posts where I read about it- I have actually been debating doing the woodgrain lidded console replacement thing in my Av).
1) Remove anything from the large rectangular area (including the cupholder assembly- it just snaps out). 2) Gently, but firmly lift up on the rear edge of the large rectangular bin. The clips should come out of the holes they fasten into (clips run around the edge of the assembly just under the 'lip' that overlaps onto the console itself).
I believe that's all there is to it. But I'll send you a private message in your CarSpace area once I find the relevent post(s) at the other site.
I've *really* got to read up on using my CarSpace account to discuss stuff with my 'Friends'. In the few minutes I've had to spare this morning I've only seen how to send messages to groups of them, not to individuals only. Fortunately I did see where I can leave comments on my 'friends' CarSpace pages. So check your CarSpace page Comments hardin. I've posted the link there(great pics in that particular forum topic!).
I am considering a new Yukon vs Yukon XL. The XL will fit in the garage but without all that much room behind it. How much room does it need behind it for the liftgate to open?
Also, I can't seem to verify mileage on the XL. Does anyone know if there is much difference?
If you have a standard length double garage you won't be able to open the Suburban liftgate with the garage door closed...it should open with the Tahoe. The gas mileage is about the same for both....I think the EPA rating on the Tahoe is about 1 mpg higher than the Suburban. Neither model is an economy machine and people don't but them for that. If you need max hauling room go for the Suburban. If not try the Tahoe. Both drive out really well.
Hello all with opinions! I am ready to buy but anguishing over which vehicle. I currently have 185,000 on my 2000 Denali and it has been a great vehicle.
I love my SUV, but wanted better fuel economy. For months, I thought I was going to buy an Acadia or Enclave. Then I test-drove an Acadia immediately followed by the Denali. I realized then I am just not ready to give up the luxurious ride and space of the big SUV. I also found out how much I hate the FWD format when accelerting or turning fast. So, until gas gets over $4 a gallon I will bite the bullet and keep an SUV....
In deciding between Yukon/Tahoe vs Denali, and regular vs XL, I would love some more advice from this forum; 1) Any of you with the AFM engines have a heavy foot in the interstate and willing to report your fuel economy? (I currently get 12-13 mpg with my Denali. It could probably be 15-16 on the interstate except that we typically drive 80-85 mph, and probably aren't going to change. Before anyone starts railing on my, let me say I drive on low-traffic roads, I have driven approx 800,000 miles, and never been in an accident). The Denali doesn't come with AFM. I could theoretically get a Yukon/Tahoe and add all of the options that are on the Denali. I would like to buy the AFM even if it saves me just 1-2 MPG, but I wonder if it really will because of the way I drive.
2) Anyone else really compared the ride of the Denali to a Yukon/Tahoe with autoride suspension? The salesman told me they should be the same, but it seemed to me the Denali ride was still much better.
3) Thoughts on the AWD vs the 4WD in serious snow? My Denali was the last year they made it with real 4WD, so I am concerned that a new Denali won't do as well. We don't get many blizzards in Indiana, but it costs me a lot of revenue to miss work. Even 2-3 days a year of serious snow is worth a lot to me. It looks like the Yukons only have 0.1 inches more of ground clearance than the Denali, so that isn't significant.
4)Am I understanding correctly that nothing from the factory is configured so that you can listen to a CD while your kids are watching a DVD in the back?! Stupid SH** likes that makes me wonder who is smoking what when they design these things... why can't they offer the 6-disc CD changer in the center console like my 2000 Denali has... I admit we are starting to use our MP3 more than CD's but to leave that out of a $40,000+ vehicle is infuriating.
5)I understand why GM doesn't offer bluetooth (though it again annoys me) and I love the OnStar safety features. The plans they offer of adding hands-free phone service with Verizon are a little unclear to me. For those of you with such a plan, how much extra are you really paying to use the Verizon phone account this way? Does it limit anything else such as family plans, etc?
6)More thoughts on Yukon vs Yukon XL... sure I can live with the regular length but would always like more. I can squeeze the XL in my garage but am more concerned about parking. The only place the Denali gives me trouble is in city parking garages, which I rarely use. I am also wondering if anyone puts a dog behind the folded-forward 3rd seat. The mat behind the 3rd seat wouldn't come up to it when it is folded forward, which could leave the dog hair (or also anything that gets spilled back there) to be a real mess. I wouldn't be taking the 3rd seats out often as we will sometimes be picking up extra kids. This practicality is what originally had me looking at only fold-flat 3rd rows and now has me thinking about a longer vehicle so we can still get dogs/groceries/etc on a mat. Share your thoughts/regrets with me on the XLs....
I think I can answer your question 5. I have another Chevy product, an '06 Impala SS, with the same OnStar feature. Like you, I wish it had a bluetooth phone system (a la DCX Uconnect) but I'm stuck with their very expensive call rates so rarely use it. Unfortunately, the tie up with Verizon is exclusive so I can't add the car phone to my Cingular account. Anyway, as I understand it, if you have, or set up, a Verizon family account, you can register the car phone (which has its own unique number) as one of the family and pay the extra $10 or whatever per month. Calls made to and from that phone will then use minutes from your family package. Hope this helps.
Comments
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/accessoriesjsp/accessorydetail.jsp?make=chevrolet&mo- - del=tahoe&year=2006&detail=06_TAH_80NSJ353&sid=8727298735325721
Try ebay and other aftermarket suppliers.
The local lousy dealer said maybe I need to change all the rear sensors and might need to change other sensors somewhere inside the car.
Hoping for your kindly assistance
"This server has encountered an internal error which prevents it from fulfilling your request. The most likely cause is a misconfiguration. Please ask the administrator to look for messages in the server's error log."
Thx
I'd say $26k for a `04 is too high. One internet search showed prices in the $22k range in the Minneaoplis area. We paid a little more than that when we bought out 2003 Tahoe used in fall of 2003 (1 year old truck).
Consider a Saturn Outlook or GMC Acadia? Similar in size to the Tahoe, but much more car like in driving style. Base models start under $30k
--jay
We're in the market for a Yukon Denali, but considering we might be nearing the end of a "model year", would rather wait for an '08, avoid the depreciation hit, or find better incentives for '07's they're trying to clear out. Our salesman says there "probably" won't be better incentives since his Yukons were flying off the lot, and we might be waiting until October/November for an '08. Of course, he had 20 Yukons sitting there, I re-test drove the same one a week later, and I'm looking for other opinions.
I have always liked the Tahoe. I have recently started a new job where I can work 100% from home so I can splurge a little on the mileage. Honestly, the Tahoe is probably the only American truck I would consider- I have thought about the Subaru Tribeca, but it is really lacking for power; and amenities.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tom S.
Donovan
I had a 1999 Suburban and it pulled great. I don't know what deal is it should be able to handle towing that trailer
Something you "may" want to check is the clearance between the rear springs and the frame rail. After having some work done on mine, I ended up with the spring scuffing the frame rail, making what I think might possibly be the same noise you and tony20fan are hearing. All I had to do to address the situation was to drop the shock and jack up the body until I was able to move the spring over to a more inboard spot on it's perch (roughly 1/4 - 3/8"). Hopefully it is something simple like that for your vehicles as well!
Happy hunting!
I have no real idea why you'd have lost any transmission fluid though.
I agree with above post on 5.7 vs 5.3.
As far as losing tranny fluid goes, I would guess that your tranny got VERY hot. If you haven't already done so, I would change the tranny fluid and filter, I would also add an aftermarket auxillary tranny cooler. I put one on my 03 Burb, it cost about $50, but its a whole lot cheaper than a new tranny.
BTW can you elaborate on "it sucks towing", some details would be helpful if you want more insightful answers to your problem.
I have a portable GPS unit and I'm trying to configure a mounting system for this that would sit securely in this area.
My current mounting apparatus is a 2 1/2" round plate w/slots for machine screws. Does anyone know what lies directly underneath that storage area - or how thick its base is (safe to place a few 1" machine screw through w/o damaging anything underneath)?
Thanks in advance for any info.
Bill
Firesource
Of course you can always fall back on the ubquitous duct tape.
Anyone else tried mounting anything in that area? My truck is being built the week of 4/23 --- and I did not spring for the Bose audio system. Perhaps w/o that subwoofer, I might be able to install as originally discussed.
Thanks again for any other comments / ideas!
They basically "popped" the standard black insert out(remove the cupholder, the remove the insert), then just popped the newer part in. If you wanted to drill holes I'd recommend pulling the insert from the center console area, checking under it to make sure you'll have clearance, possibly drilling / mounting the plate while it's still out, then reinstalling the whole thing.
Or you could just go the easier, probably safer and in the long term, less destructive route. That being, adhesive, hook-and-loop, etc. Then, as others have said, if you ever change your mind, or trade the Tahoe, you can use something like Goo Gone to clean up, and essentially have it returned to factory stock appearance without having to buy another replacement insert.
Yes, there ARE electronics under there, and I could not figure out how to remove the "box" as apparently is possible. I simply removed and losened everything I could on the left side of the console assembly and was able to get my arm up and under the front part of the console. I then felt around and decided that I could use some short sheet metal screws, but there was limited clearance. I carefully drilled some small pilot holes thru the bottom of the "box" and used the drill bit as a feeler gage to see how much clearance I had. Think I used 1" sheet metal screws, but don't remember exactly - I may have used several lengths since the RAM had four mounting holes in the circular base.
All worked out OK (perhaps I was lucky) but with some care, it can be done without removing the "box".
I needed to connect the remote GPS antenna, since the unit installed in that spot sits to low to acquire satellites, and wanted it on the left hand side of the dash, as close to the corner as possible. I snaked the antenna lead between the front left side of the dash and the windshield molding down behind the dash to the hidden front of the console and into the "box" area. I don't know if the roof mounted antenna is standard or if any leads installed. Might want to check out how the GM/Chevy GPS factory units are wired up are and/or routed.
To power the Lowrance unit, I went through the back of the "box" into and between the cup holders and into the main console in order to use the cigarette lighter adapter in the console which now powers the GPS.
End result, a nice clean solid installation with wires hidden. It's been working fine for me for about 10 months now. If you want some photos of the finished installation, send an e-mail to chuck@sprick.net and I'll shoot a couple and send them to you.
Be sure to tell him how easy it is to sign up for himself!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
In any case, so far as I know nearly *all* vehicles have hydraulic brakes, and I've seen plenty of other vehicles being flat-towed, including at least one Silverado. So I'm not sure what he means about the hydraulic brakes making it unable to be towed.
The site I'll send the link for includes pictures in at least one of the topics covering the subject, so it'll be easier to understand. But here's the basics so far as I've found (having to search those forums to find the posts where I read about it- I have actually been debating doing the woodgrain lidded console replacement thing in my Av).
1) Remove anything from the large rectangular area (including the cupholder assembly- it just snaps out).
2) Gently, but firmly lift up on the rear edge of the large rectangular bin. The clips should come out of the holes they fasten into (clips run around the edge of the assembly just under the 'lip' that overlaps onto the console itself).
I believe that's all there is to it. But I'll send you a private message in your CarSpace area once I find the relevent post(s) at the other site.
Also, I can't seem to verify mileage on the XL. Does anyone know if there is much difference?
Thanks for any thoughts!
Kim
I love my SUV, but wanted better fuel economy. For months, I thought I was going to buy an Acadia or Enclave. Then I test-drove an Acadia immediately followed by the Denali. I realized then I am just not ready to give up the luxurious ride and space of the big SUV. I also found out how much I hate the FWD format when accelerting or turning fast. So, until gas gets over $4 a gallon I will bite the bullet and keep an SUV....
In deciding between Yukon/Tahoe vs Denali, and regular vs XL, I would love some more advice from this forum;
1) Any of you with the AFM engines have a heavy foot in the interstate and willing to report your fuel economy? (I currently get 12-13 mpg with my Denali. It could probably be 15-16 on the interstate except that we typically drive 80-85 mph, and probably aren't going to change. Before anyone starts railing on my, let me say I drive on low-traffic roads, I have driven approx 800,000 miles, and never been in an accident).
The Denali doesn't come with AFM. I could theoretically get a Yukon/Tahoe and add all of the options that are on the Denali. I would like to buy the AFM even if it saves me just 1-2 MPG, but I wonder if it really will because of the way I drive.
2) Anyone else really compared the ride of the Denali to a Yukon/Tahoe with autoride suspension? The salesman told me they should be the same, but it seemed to me the Denali ride was still much better.
3) Thoughts on the AWD vs the 4WD in serious snow? My Denali was the last year they made it with real 4WD, so I am concerned that a new Denali won't do as well. We don't get many blizzards in Indiana, but it costs me a lot of revenue to miss work. Even 2-3 days a year of serious snow is worth a lot to me. It looks like the Yukons only have 0.1 inches more of ground clearance than the Denali, so that isn't significant.
4)Am I understanding correctly that nothing from the factory is configured so that you can listen to a CD while your kids are watching a DVD in the back?! Stupid SH** likes that makes me wonder who is smoking what when they design these things... why can't they offer the 6-disc CD changer in the center console like my 2000 Denali has... I admit we are starting to use our MP3 more than CD's but to leave that out of a $40,000+ vehicle is infuriating.
5)I understand why GM doesn't offer bluetooth (though it again annoys me) and I love the OnStar safety features. The plans they offer of adding hands-free phone service with Verizon are a little unclear to me. For those of you with such a plan, how much extra are you really paying to use the Verizon phone account this way? Does it limit anything else such as family plans, etc?
6)More thoughts on Yukon vs Yukon XL... sure I can live with the regular length but would always like more. I can squeeze the XL in my garage but am more concerned about parking. The only place the Denali gives me trouble is in city parking garages, which I rarely use.
I am also wondering if anyone puts a dog behind the folded-forward 3rd seat. The mat behind the 3rd seat wouldn't come up to it when it is folded forward, which could leave the dog hair (or also anything that gets spilled back there) to be a real mess. I wouldn't be taking the 3rd seats out often as we will sometimes be picking up extra kids. This practicality is what originally had me looking at only fold-flat 3rd rows and now has me thinking about a longer vehicle so we can still get dogs/groceries/etc on a mat. Share your thoughts/regrets with me on the XLs....