Hyundai Sonata Real World MPG
This topic is for Sonata owners to share their actual MPG with others.
"Real World" Fuel Economy vs. EPA Estimates
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"Real World" Fuel Economy vs. EPA Estimates
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Did your milage improve after reaching some magic number of miles, as others have stated? Based on my driving conditions, I'm not complaining. But your MPG sounds great and was wondering if I might expect some increase in MPG after reaching a certain number of miles.
It was gradual. My initial mileage (during the car's very first tankful) was abysmal - 16 mpg city and 21 mpg highway. I broke it in easy as the owner's manual directed, though not exceeding 55 mph for the first 1,200 miles was agonizing - saw lotsa middle fingers even though I stayed in the right lane! By 4,000 miles I was up to about where you are now, and by about 6,000 miles I was within 2 mpg of the figures I listed above. Thereafter further improvements were very gradual and it's probably about as good as it's gonna get. These 2.7L engines are generally economical cruisers, but they'll suck the tank dry if they're unnecessarily pushed. One thing you really have to watch, though, bhmr59 are short trips that don't fully warm the engine. They're "H" on motor oil and a terrific way to develop a prematurely sludged-up engine. (This is an internal combustion engine problem, NOT a Hyundai engine problem.) Get it out once a week for 20 miles or more at constant speed to evaporate water condensation and burn off fuel dilution in the oil - both are longevity enemies. Take Hyundai's 7,500 mile oil change interval with a grain of salt, too, if you use conventional motor oil. 5,000 miles is more appropriate unless you pop for a full-synthetic. I change every 3,000 miles - partly because I'm anal and partly because I take so long to rack up miles.
I did change my oil @ 3100 miles and plan to follow Hyundai's "severe use"/whatever it's called and change every 3 to 3500 miles.
Thanks again.
Thanks.
I see that Hyundai's conservative run-in approach hasn't changed with the introduction of the 2006 Sonatas. (My '03 Sonata V6's run-in instructions were identical.) Hyundai's apparently alone among car manufacturers in still observing a 1,200 mile run-in. (Most, if not all, recommend no more than 600 miles, and some don't make any suggestion.) I imagine Hyundai's engineers put the company's test track to good use in developing the new engines and feel their run-in recommendations are appropriate. But, one of the nice things about a democracy is that once you've plopped your bucks down and own the car, or taken on the lease or loan payments, you can drive it any way you choose. If you have reason to believe that a higher top speed during run-in is advantageous, it's your call. Of equal, or even more importance is the need to alter your speed when safe to do so. Proper piston rign seating to the cylinder bores requires doing so. Moderate acceleration (without forcing a downshift) up to whatever limit you set for yourself positively "loads" the piston rings during the compression stroke. Foot off the accelerator to slow the car to around 40 mph negatively loads the piston rings during the resulting vacuum during the intake stroke. Fifteen or so such cycles will pretty much seat the piston rings properly to minimize future oil consumption problems. Personally, I doubt that even running it like ya' stole it during run-in will elliminate the possibility of ever seeing 100,000 miles, and the majority of drivers rarely keep their cars much past that anyway. But people I've talked to over the years who keep their cars in excess of 300,000 miles without the need of deep repair work on their cars' engines have generally agreed on one thing - follow the manufacturer's advice during run-in. I don't know whether they're right or wrong, but I do know that doing so is only an immediate "hardship" in the overall scheme of things during ownership. Hopefully someone of the "run-it-like-ya'-stole-it" run-in philosphy will chime in and give us his experience. Finally, also remember that it's not merely the engine that's running-in. So is the transmission. Early all-out acceleration might have an effect on the automatic transmission's friction materials that could lead to premature or excessive wear.
I'm almost certain that's your issue. I would really doubt there is anything unusually wrong with your car. I don't have a Sonata, but I have an Elantra and over its 20,000 mile life I have ranged from 19-40mpg all because of the route and the distance. Furthermore, if your commute is a short distance that's going to hurt too because the engine won't even be fully warming up.
So, if your car does get a 2-3mpg improvement over the next year or two and beyond, you might eventually see 20-23mpg on your commute and that maybe that could be considered reasonable since you have a slightly larger and much more powerful engine.
On the highway, I do get significantly better mileage. About 27 at 77 mph with the AC on. The service manager did say that as the engine gets some more miles on it, there should be a slight increase. Good luck.
With my daily commute, and around-town driving, my overall MPG has been just a hair over 24 MPG.
This has all been hand-calculated, although I must say that the trip computer is remarkably accurate, usually only off by 0.1 or 0.2 MPG per tank.
Your trip computer difference is most likely due to "rounding." You may be a kook like me, comparing the miles to the .1 and the gallons to the .001. The computer doesn't consider my quirk and may be more accurate than the gas pump reading when getting down to the .001 gallons.
I'm in CT. In the last week, with the colder weather, I've noticed a slight decrease in MPG (about .3). Based on my other cars I'm sure it will drop lower as we get sustained colder temperatures. Have you noticed a drop in MPG yet?
As far as break-in, I used the "run it like you intend to keep it" method for the most part. But I must admit that with the temptation of that much horsepower under my right foot, I did allow myself to be a bad boy on occasion :-)
I basically just tried NOT to keep the RPM's constant for long periods.
As far as my mileage goes, it has dropped dramatically on day-to-day driving since the cold weather hit here in NJ. On my daily commute I am averaging just about 21 MPG now.
I should also mention that I let the dealer do the first oil change and they used 10W-30 oil, instead of the 5W-20 that is recommended. I think the thinner oil would do much better in the cold. But I'll be at my second oil change soon and will get to test that theory since I'll be changing it myself.
Here in IL where the Interstate speed limit is 65MPH, if I drive at 60 to 65MPH consistently, I get excellent fuel mileage. Heck, I can even get 26 to 27MPG with my old 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan ES with a 3.3L V6, and it's a heavy, large box with significant wind resistance. Once I go over 70MPH with my Hyundai, the mileage starts to drop considerably. And, if I drive over 80MPH, I really don't have to worry about spending money for fuel, as speeding tickets issued my the State Police become the primary expense!
i was referring to my 2006 Sonata LX, with the V6 automatic.
New with 11 miles on the odometer from the dealer lot till Sunday night I got 25mpg over 220 miles driven.
During my 42 mile commute to work I got 28mpg this morning.
Overall I am happy with these numbers considering the engine is still pretty "green".
Your fuel useage will continue to improve measurably at each, or nearly so, gasoline fill-up on out to 5,000 miles, though at a progressively slower pace. All this means is that, though it's now safe for you drive at any sane speed you wish, by Hyundai's recommendations, there IS still some engine running-in taking place on the engine's sliding parts and cylinder walls. I just turned 18K miles on my '03. My most recent canonball run from California to Arizona netted me just under 32 mpg with the 2.7L V6 at 75 mph with cruise control engaged, using California's 10% ethanol/gasoline 87 octane unleaded blend and a good quality, conventional 10W-30 motor oil.* I did find it prudent to slow down to 65 mph when I entered Arizona. Arizona's highway patrol officers seem to be genetically engineered with hair-trigger reflexes to turn on the red light for cars with California license plates traveling any faster than the posted speed limit. In other words, I did nothing special to enhance fuel economy. This was a ~440 mile round trip on one tankfull of fuel. It took a tad under 14 gallons to refill the tank. I don't believe it's unreasonable for you to expect similar results eventually. Just keep doin' whatcher doin'!
*Chevron Supreme
LOL, I know what you mean, I think I'm still on a first name basis w/ some of those officers
While having cruse control certainly makes long driving trips more enjoyable, it's no no for fuel economy. Unless your driving in Kansas or on a giant pool table, chances are that you'll be burning a lot more fuel than needed especially when climbing uphill.
Keep in mind that mileage numbers posted by the EPA are estimates only. They are meant to be used in comparisons of fuel efficiency of particular vehicles, not an indication of what an owner should expect to see. To expect your actual gas mileage to match EPA estimates is sheer folly! The whole idea behind EPA "driving conditions" is that are reproducable with a combination of driving speeds and stop periods.
While having cruse control certainly makes long driving trips more enjoyable, it's no no for fuel economy. Unless your driving in Kansas or on a giant pool table, chances are that you'll be burning a lot more fuel than needed especially when climbing uphill :lemon:
This is incorrect. The ability of cruise control to maintain a near constant speed will always result in better fuel economy.
Using the "hill climbing" as an example, most drivers will vary thier speed, conservatively speaking, 2.5 mph either side of the speed they intend to go (i.e. increasing their speed on the downhill, decreasing their speed on the uphill) that's a five mph variance in speed that requires fairly significant throttle adjustments. A cruise control is able to provide a much narrower variance with less throttle response, resulting in better fuel economy.
Everything you find regarding "cruise control and fuel economy" will back that up. Google it and see!
I reset all functions on my trip computer at every fill up. Recently I started to manually calculate my mileage immediately after fill up by using a calculator. The calculator is telling me that the trip computer is off by 1 mpg. I am actually getting 1mpg less than what the trip computer is showing. Has anyone else experienced this?
I trust the trip computer more than I trust fuel shut offs at the local pit and git.