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Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?
Mr_Shiftright
Member Posts: 64,481
Ever had a shocking experience when pricing out placement shocks or struts for your car?
This forum was suggested by a member who will share his stories and would like to find ways of bringing down the cost of shock/strut replacement.
Another poster notes that "Shock selection at the factory produces virtually a custom shock absorber tailored for the vehicle's characteristics."
This forum was suggested by a member who will share his stories and would like to find ways of bringing down the cost of shock/strut replacement.
Another poster notes that "Shock selection at the factory produces virtually a custom shock absorber tailored for the vehicle's characteristics."
0
Comments
Some day soon you will have to look at auto repair labor as the same as hiring a custom cabinet maker or expert brick layer or tile sculpturist.
And if you can find anybody who can replace struts in 15 minutes, including bringing the car in, hoisting it, removing the old struts and installing the new ones, road testing, parking the car, and processing the paperwork in 15 minutes, then please send me his phone number. I'll hire him in a blink.
We might try changing the title of the forum, like the one on Brakes...if you'd like....
Shifty the Host
Shock and Strut Replacement: Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?
I recently took my 1993 Volvo 850, into my regular (and to my knowledge trustworthy) shop for an oil change and inspection. I was told that I need strut mount, struts, and rear shocks replaced. Their extimated cost for this was $1,500. Does anyone know if this is within the normal cost range? I'm planning on calling another mechanic and asking for a second estimate, just to make sure.
Any advice, I obviously want to be safe, feel a bit of a scare tactic from the shop, but don't want to spend $600 for a car that is worth $1,500.
THANKS
Regarding the shop that gave you the life and death scenario, not only would I run from that shop as fast as I could, I'd even consider reporting them to the BBB or some other such consumer protection group.
Best Regards,
Shipo
first time, be gentle. I have a 2001 Avalon XLS and it gets loose on the highway. Tires are good and I run new X-Ice in the winter. Suggestions for shocks. I've been considering the Tokico.
Thanks
My car is a 1997 Nissan Altima with about 167K miles on it. I haven't had the struts checked/replaced since I bought it about 6 years ago, but now clearly need to do that before I drive it much further.
Just thought I would pass that along.
Eric
I own a 1997 nissan max with 146,000. it runs and performs like new. I have never replaced the struts or brakes for that matter.
The rubber around the stuts is ripped. I have been told that it is not hurting the car to drive with some tears but that I should have them replaced. The estimate is about $1,000 for all 4.
Thank you
Scott
Usually 80,000 miles is a good time to replace the struts or at least think about it...that's when they start losing their edge. If you ever had to put the car through some hard work, like hauling stuff or very rough roads, as those old struts heated up you'd notice it I'm sure. They work okay right now but they have no "reserve".
Secondly I was told 2 hours for each side so at another shop they did it for 1 hour each side. The job was done in 1.5 hours. So in this case my bill went from ~$750.00 to ~$275.00!
1) What is the difference between the all-in-one and the regular type strut?
2) This is a sport model; will this type strut provide equivalent handling and support?
3) Is the price quoted reasonable, or should I call around to more garages?
I am shopping for front struts and mounts for my T & C 2001 LTD minivan. I am confused as to what brand I should go with.I am not shopping for price, I am shopping for simply the best in quality and if the best is worth all the price. My shop suggests that they replace with only MONROE replacement parts as their experience is best with them. I can understand the commercial interest to certain extent, but I would like an honest opinion and a kind of comparison for all the replacement brands.
I hope to hear from you soon as I intend getting the job done in the next couple of weeks.
Thanks in advance for your tips.
Happy Holidays.
Prakash :surprise:
First, however, I will comment on labor.
Many cars, especially Japanese labels, require removal of the rear seat to access the upper rear strut mounts. This is why rears are more time than front. Age of the car, if you live in a "salt" state will add time on both ends.
I sell Monroe, KYB, and other brands that are special orderes to customer specifications. Monroe Sensa Tracs, IMO, give a good combination of ride and handling. KYB's have firmer ride in their peformance lines, and do well for the more aggressive driver. Bilsteins are high price high performace preferred by many drivers of Europian cars.
If your car is older, and high miles, the mechanic may recommend strut mounts and bearings, rubber isolators, and boot and bumper kits with the strut job. If all these are needed, the repair cost can be scary. Depending on the car, a four strut job could runs from around $450 to several thousand dollars. When they first came out, the electrically controlled air struts on the Lincoln Continental were more than the price of a whole new Huyndai.
Harry
Thanks
Greg
Probably the whole job, done well and professionally by people who know Audis, would be around $800.
Given that it takes a pro 4.5 hours, you'd have to figure it would take you 8.0 hours or so, if you had the right tools. Probably doing the rear shocks would be easier for you.
What do you think?
meghan
As for "unfreezing" them, they should regain their normal function after driving them for a while---you don't have to defrost them, no. They should warm up on their own from road action.
You could inspect your struts on a lift for leakage, that would be the first thing to do.
Can someone recommend a replacement part (someone suggested KYB gr-2) and a cheap mechanic in the bay area for a student like me to have their shocks replaced.
Thanx
You are talking about a shock, not a strut correct? A strut is an integrated unit, comprised of a longer shock with a spring wrapped arount it.
Assuming this is a shock, what you are saying is that the shock itself has broken into two pieces. The bottom mounting piece of the shock has had the weld broken apart from the bottom of the shock. Correct?
Assuming correct, then there are a couple different types of bottom shock mountings that are typically seen. One is a U-shaped frame, the shock mount with rubber bushing slips between the U, and a bolt goes thru both sides of the U and the shock mount. Another typical connection seen is a bolt that is mounted on one side only with the threaded end sticking out, and the rubber bushing shock mount is put over that, followed by a big flat washer and a nut. Is it the latter that you have?
If so, then you should be able to remove the nut and washer, and slide the rubber bushing shock mount off. Normally you would have the shock attached which you can pry on to get it off, but in your case you may have to get a big screwdriver behind the bushing to get some leverage.
Sometimes the shock mount is just a rubber bushing, sometimes it is a rubber bushing with a metal tube thru it, which slides over the bolt.
If it is just the rubber, the rubber can get sticky and actually stick itself to the bolt....making it hard to get off. Usually what I try to do is put a pair of pliers or vise grips on the shock mount, and try to spin it on its' axis to break that sticky grip it may have.
If you have the type with a metal tube thru it, sometimes the metal tube will deform and become hard to get off.
Good luck
No I wouldn't hit with a hammer, you don't want to bend that mounting bolt, or break it off. I'd try prying it with a big screwdriver, using some frame or wheelpart as a leverage point. If that didn't work, I'd try using a small wheel puller, but not sure you would have one of those.
For one car many years ago before I knew better, I actually burned the rubber off once with a propane torch, but that is particularly dangerous as the rubber catches on fire and burns, and then drops to the floor. Wouldn't recommend doing that.
By the way, you're going to change out both shocks right?