Hey guys, I bought a 97 Accord LX Auto with 59K miles about 2 weeks ago. The car is working fine however yesterday I notice the “Maintenance” indicator changed to amber. I also noticed the exhaust is making a louder noise when I’m only around 2000-2500 RPM. I think the exhaust note is louder than usual in general. Is the engine struggling to make power? I’m posting this to get an idea what may be wrong BEFORE I go to a shop. The dealer changed the engine and transmission oil when I bought the car. No other warning lights are on.
The switch is the one you use to turn the lights on at the end of the blinker stalk, and goes down into the steering column (it does more than one thing, hence the name combination switch). If you are going to fix things on your own car, I suggest you buy a shop manual for details on troubleshooting/testing and maintenance. There are cheap manuals (Haynes, Chiltons) for under $20 at autoparts stores. Helm factory manuals are the best, but they cost about $80.
The maintenance required light comes on at mileage intervals, just as a reminder to do the required maintenance. It does not mean there is something wrong with the car. It should be reset when maintenance is done. You can reset the light yourself by inserting a key (or any small pointy object) into the slot next to the light. The exhaust note getting louder may be a hole in the exhaust getting larger.
You guys are right, but I believe 7,500 is when the switch to yellow is made and 12,000 is when the switch to red is made. The 7,500 mark is supposedly what the manufacturer says is the oil change interval, which I don't buy for a minute it seems too long to me. I think that the indicator is there to remind people to have they're oil changed. Since I've always done mine right around 3,000 give or take a couple hundred I never paid attention to it.
Everybody told me not to worry about it. It's easy to reset.
It seems these maintenance required lights are not useful, and confuse a lot of people. Even the owners who know what they are for, don't use them. :confuse: Does anyone think the maintenance minder is better, same, or worse?
No the 12,000 was when the indicator went from yellow to red. I never went 12,000 without an oil change. My parents have blown too many engines doing that.
What I meant by the 12,000 mile mark is just that hey you need to have the car taken in now.
Since you're a big advocate for reading the manual it's in there. Not trying to get smart.
Wouldn't it make more sense to say "hey get my oil changed NOW" at 7,500 miles, when the book says to, and to say "you need to make an appointment to get my oil changed" a few hundred miles before that?
I'm not sure what would make more sense, but I do remember that's what is said. It would probably make more sense for them to drop the whole maintenance required thingy and let people read the stickers they get when the oil is done. But hey I've always gone at 3,000 or so because I am just more comfortable that way.
I second that recommendation on the Helm's manual. If you do anything mechanically on your cars it is worth it's weight in (insert name of precious metal here).
My daughter's car is a 97 Accord EX with 98k miles. Recently put almost $2k into maintenance items, front axles, pan gasket, etc. One of the main items was the timing belt package, including new water pump. Well, 4 days after coming out of the shop, she is driving the car back to college, the check engine light comes on, so she gets off at the next exit. The radiator has a large split across the front, probably 18 inches long. We tow it back to the dealer that did the work. Head is warped, rod knocks, so it needs a new motor. Seems a strange coincidence to me that this happens so soon after major maintenance. Any opinions out there on how to approach this with the dealer?
Also, they are getting me the pricing options on new/used motors. How much would this normally cost?
4 days after a new waterpump is installed the engine dies of an overheat?
Well that's more than co-incidence. The evidence is circumstantial but compelling.
Your problem however, is that the dealer can argue that even if the pump was installed incorrectly, your daughter should have stopped the car before the engine was destroyed, by watching the heat gauge. And that's a good defense.
So this might end as some 50-50 compromise on parts and labor. You could try to reach an agreement with the dealer, such as you buy the used engine and they install it for free (or vice-versa) or you could go to Small Claims Court and see what the judge says.
Without knowing all the facts, my offhand opinion is "mutual fault, so mutual contribution to expenses".
Thanks for the feedback and objective perspective. Late yesterday, the dealer called and proposed putting in a 'low mileage used long block'. They would reuse the water pump, timing belt, etc. from the existing motor. Total cost, parts and labor, $2600.00, comes with 12 mo/20k warranty. Does this cost seem reasonable?
Also, back to my original message, is it normal for the radiator to just split open. It does not appear to be near any of the seams, which is where I would have expected such a failure, if it was really a coincidental issue and not caused by some external force. I have searched the forum and it does not seem to be a common occurrence.
It could have burst from extreme pressure, and probably did.
The dealer's offer doesn't sound bad, especially with the warranty. However I would go over with him what the warranty includes and excludes. I would also go over with your daughter the circumstances of the event, without blame, to see what signs/signals she might have ignored, if any. In other words, if she drove with the car misbehaving, smelling strange, engine light blinking, etc, that might have been a really bad idea. She might need some instruction.
My feeling is that the coolant leaked out somehow and the radiator blew up and then the engine cooked itself.
I have a 96 accord lx 4cyl. I am having problems with oil getting in to where my sparkplugs are located. I changed the sparkplugs and wires and the headcover gasket. however, oil is still getting into where my sparkplugs are located. my brother said the "head" maybe cracked or warped. I dont know what the hell the "head" is or if that is the actual name of the part.
Any suggestions on what the problem could possibly be?
I have a 97 Accord EX with 98k miles. It needs a new motor, probably around $2500. I am the second owner, the car has been maintained very well. I always hear about these cars running for close to 200k miles, but am wondering how much I will spend in the next xx years on maintenance or replacement of major components. Transmission comes to mind, how long do they normally last.
This car is only driven 10-15k per year, so if it will really last that long, the new motor is a no brainer. I just don't want it to end up being a money pit.
This problem has nothing to do with your heads. The oil can be getting in from one or both seams in the spark plug tubes. One seam is for the valve cover itself, and one is under the rockerarm assembly. The ones under the valve cover would be easy to replace. The o-rings under the rockerarms are a lot more complicated. If your head gasket was leaking the oil would be under the spark plug, not on top. If you want to try and repair this yourself, I may be able to find a link to a DIY.
matt75035, If you don't mind, what happened to the motor? If the transmission fluid has been changed/maintained and it works normally, it should last much longer. Accords are rarely "money pits".
Hi Elroy, I had this on another thread, but just to recap. This is my daughter's car, she's a college student. I had just spent about $2000 on maintenance and repair items, timing belt, water pump, front axles, oil pan gasket, etc. Four days later, she was on her way back to school (about 3 hours drive), when the check engine light came on. She got off at the next exit, where it died. I went to tow it back to the dealer where the work was done, and found a split in the top of the radiator about 18 inches long. Funny thing is, it's not near any seams, which is where I would expect it to burst if it was a fatigue-related issue. Anyway, when the dealer looked at it, they found the head warped and a rod-knock, basically that it overheated and fried the motor. So now they want to ding me another $2500 for a new motor and radiator. I am still negotiating with them on that. I am very suspicious they caused the radiator damage when it was in the shop, but not really any way to prove that I guess.
OK, now I remember your previous post. The plastic on top of the radiators are known to split (it happened to my 92 Accord), and overheating an Aluminum engine is never good. This is very unfortunate, and I can understand your apprehension about the car at this point. I would suggest though, that the car should not have any other major problems. If only the overheating could have been prevented, but hey, things happen. Hope you can negotiate some more expense off the bill, if that's what you decide to do. Good luck.
I went to start my car today and it was completely dead. When I got out of my 1997 Honda Accord 2 days before the lights were still on for my A/C and recirrculation controls on the panel after I turned the car off. I played with them for a minute and they when out. I jumped the car and it started up. I let it run for awhile and the lights just died down. I turned the blower on while the keys were out and air blew out. Why when the car is off that my blower is working? I know this drained my battery through what needs replaced so the power shuts off to the temperature control panel? Thanks
When my 1996 Accord was in the dealership for the 150K service, the technician mentioned that he noticed oil in the spark plug wells, caused by leaks from the cam shaft seal. I had the seal replaced at a cost of ~$250 sight unseen and hopefully they told me the truth.
the technician mentioned that he noticed oil in the spark plug wells, caused by leaks from the cam shaft seal.
The part I call the camshaft seal is at the end of the camshaft, and it would leak into the timing belt area (under where the drive belts are). The rockerarm assembly (where the 4 o-rings are, that could leak into the spark plug wells) holds the camshaft down, so that may be what he was referring to. Oil leaking through the 0-rings into the spark plug wells is common with these engines. It happened to my 92 Accord, and I changed the o-rings myself.
The rockerarm assembly (where the 4 o-rings are, that could leak into the spark plug wells) holds the camshaft down, so that may be what he was referring to.
That must be it. The term they used in the service record is "Cam Tower Seal" and there were four of them replaced.
I have a 1996 Accord LX coupe at 160K miles. Did not need any repairs until about 150K miles besides regular maintenance following the normal schedule, front brake pads at 90K, rear brake shoes at 150K, batteries at 60K and 150K.
The car is still running strong, though I have and will have to fix a few things: Cam tower seals at 150K ($280 dealer) Front motor mount broken ($170 dealer quoted) Outer CV boots at 160K ($180 at an independent mechanic) Oil pan seepage without dripping ($350 dealer quoted) Hairline crack at the top of the radiator ($???)
I am planning drive this car to 200K and beyond, and from the look of it, it is doable.
Just one word, but there is a big difference between cam seal, and cam tower seal. Yes they are known to leak. It was the only thing I ever had to replace on my engine, so I was happy with it.
I am planning drive this car to 200K and beyond, and from the look of it, it is doable.
Oh yes. You can tell by how these cars are put together, they can go a long way. (with a little maintenance and care).
I am having problems with my A/C in my 97 Accord. It all started when my battery when dead. I drove the car to get the battery checked and I had the A/C going. It was nice and cold. I was about to turn onto the road and my car had a loud screaching sound come from it. I turned off the car and opened the hood. A little smoke came out and I had no idea what was happening. I started the car and it ran for a minute and the same thing. I think one of the wheels locked up and caused the componets not to turn like they should. I pushed the car back to my house. I got the battery replaced and it was fine. I had the car in my garage and started it up. I didn't want to turn on the A/C to find the problem again though I had to find out what is the problem. I turned the fan to the second notch and it was really cold. I left it there for a minute. I turned the knob to full and I heard a click and the cold air stopped. The fan kept blowing air just not A/C. I turned it off and on and no more cold air.
Any suggestions to what this could be? FYI I changed my radiator about 4 months ago. I guess this must be just a thing that happened on its own though I change the radiator on my 91 Accord and 6 months later the A/C stopped working. Just trying to give as much info. Thanks
Here is an update. I checked the pressure in the system and it was really high up and around 90 lbs. I relieved some pressure. What only came out was air. No freon. I added some freon or R-134a what ever is okay for the enviroment and it was really cold. I guess I will have to wait a couple of days to see if it holds the same pressure. I am just not sure why the system would increase in pressure that much since it is a closed system. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The transmission on my 97 Accord LX appears to have gone bad. I think the tranny fluid was leaking and went dry and I made the boneheaded mistake of not getting it fixed fast enough. Anyway, I took it back to the used dealership I bought it from and they said they would replace it with a used transmission, and not charge me for labor. They are telling me that the used transmission will cost 760 though. I'm just wondering if this is a good price. I am only a bit wary because this is a used car dealership and they already seem to be shady and have screwed me over a couple times now. I know transmissions are expensive, so i won't be surprised if thats an accurate price, I'm just trying to find out for sure. I also am worried that the tranny wasn't really in busted and they are going to charge me for a smaller repair but it was in bad condition. The gears were slipping, not shifting when they were supposed to, and it was not really drivable anymore. But im not a car expert. Thanks
Hello all, I'm not really a car guy, don't know much about them except changing oil, brakes, air filter. Anywho, when my parents bought the car back in 2002 it never came with the owners manual so I'm stuck trying to replace the low beam light bulb. Thought it would be easy but the driver side headlamp is blocked by the battery, air filter and this other box. So at the moment I'm not sure how to remove the box in order to replace the bulb, can anyone help?
Another problem is that the car shakes and rattle pretty hard now every time I brake and it doesn't brake smoothly, kind if you were to slowly roll the car and tap the brake repeatly. I just replaced my brakes 2-3 months ago.
Last but not least does anyone know the average cost of repair the CV (sp) bearings/joints?
I'll help with one of your questions....your brake pulsation is caused by warped rotors. Jack up the vehicle and put on jack stands, take off the tire, remove the caliper w/brakepads, replace the rotor, put the caliper back on, tire back on, good to go.
Not trying to be cute or anything here but I would not take my car back to a place that has "screwed me over a couple times now". Pay the labor somewhere else to have it done by someone you trust. Money is tight I understand, but saving money at places I knew I shouldn't be at has always come back to bite me in the butt.
I recently had the same problem with my speedo, I searched a nationwide website that goes out to all of the junkyards or "auto recyclers". The one I bought only had 13 more miles on the odometer than my existing broken one. www.uneedapart.com is the website. I only paid $35.00 for it and that included shipping. Keep in mind that if you buy a new one you'll obviously have to note the odometer discrepency somewhere on the car and that'll classify your car as "true milage unknown" or TMU.
I'm contemplating buying a '97 with 157k miles. It's in great shape and I know the owner took great care of it and has full maintenance records. I think a new timing belt was installed around 30k miles ago. Could I expect to get another 100k miles out of it myself? He's only asking $3500 for it which is $1500 below KBB private party value.
Just want to make sure this particular model doesn't have a bad history for a major component. Thanks.
I think you should be ok. That is an excellent price for the car (I'm likely going to ask more than that for my 1996 LX Sedan (4-cyl) with 175k!)
I don't recall hearing about any major component problems with cars from this generation, at all. Glad to hear the timing belt is new; that would have been a big question I'd have asked.
The early Accord V6 engines were not so great. The small power increase over the 4cylinder was barely enough to compensate for the added weight. I don't think the V6 engines were all aluminum at that time (heads only), so they were pretty heavy. The power increase is not worth the penalty on gas mileage, IMO. It is a reliable car though, if the other stuff doesn't matter too much to you.
I gotcha. The V6 of yesteryear has the power and torque (170hp/165lb-ft)of today's I4. Then again, yesteryear's I4 had 130hp/139lb-ft, so its still an improvement, although marginal.
What kind of gas mileage should I expect? Low 20's in city and mid-20's on the highway?
For performance, all I need is something that's reliable and will get fairly good gas mileage. It's just going to be driven to/from work 30 miles/day and that's about it. From what I've heard, I'd trust an Accord or Camry in this price range over anything from the Big 3.
I saw some listed on cars.com that were asking more with 50k+ more miles on it than the one I'm looking at.
Comments
Please HELP Thanks, Damian
Exactly. Mine doesn't really "light up" though, but what elroy said about resetting is exactly right.
If I recall correctly, it changes from green to yellow after 6,000 miles from being reset, and from yellow to red after 7,500 miles from being reset.
If you know the oil was changed within the last 6,000-7,500 miles, just reset it yourself.
Everybody told me not to worry about it. It's easy to reset.
7,500 is the maximum interval you are supposed to go in this car, and that is in easier conditions.
I like the Maintenance Minder. My Accord just hit 15% so I know it is time for an oil change and tire rotation.
This system is much better than the green/yellow/red colors. Those are not lights but colors on some sort of band that move with the odometer.
What I meant by the 12,000 mile mark is just that hey you need to have the car taken in now.
Since you're a big advocate for reading the manual it's in there.
The MM began with the 06. It's a system the measures what the engine is doing more than just relying on miles for scheduled maintenance.
Also, they are getting me the pricing options on new/used motors. How much would this normally cost?
Well that's more than co-incidence. The evidence is circumstantial but compelling.
Your problem however, is that the dealer can argue that even if the pump was installed incorrectly, your daughter should have stopped the car before the engine was destroyed, by watching the heat gauge. And that's a good defense.
So this might end as some 50-50 compromise on parts and labor. You could try to reach an agreement with the dealer, such as you buy the used engine and they install it for free (or vice-versa) or you could go to Small Claims Court and see what the judge says.
Without knowing all the facts, my offhand opinion is "mutual fault, so mutual contribution to expenses".
Also, back to my original message, is it normal for the radiator to just split open. It does not appear to be near any of the seams, which is where I would have expected such a failure, if it was really a coincidental issue and not caused by some external force. I have searched the forum and it does not seem to be a common occurrence.
The dealer's offer doesn't sound bad, especially with the warranty. However I would go over with him what the warranty includes and excludes. I would also go over with your daughter the circumstances of the event, without blame, to see what signs/signals she might have ignored, if any. In other words, if she drove with the car misbehaving, smelling strange, engine light blinking, etc, that might have been a really bad idea. She might need some instruction.
My feeling is that the coolant leaked out somehow and the radiator blew up and then the engine cooked itself.
Any suggestions on what the problem could possibly be?
This car is only driven 10-15k per year, so if it will really last that long, the new motor is a no brainer. I just don't want it to end up being a money pit.
Thoughts?
This problem has nothing to do with your heads. The oil can be getting in from one or both seams in the spark plug tubes. One seam is for the valve cover itself, and one is under the rockerarm assembly. The ones under the valve cover would be easy to replace. The o-rings under the rockerarms are a lot more complicated. If your head gasket was leaking the oil would be under the spark plug, not on top. If you want to try and repair this yourself, I may be able to find a link to a DIY.
If you don't mind, what happened to the motor? If the transmission fluid has been changed/maintained and it works normally, it should last much longer. Accords are rarely "money pits".
I had this on another thread, but just to recap. This is my daughter's car, she's a college student. I had just spent about $2000 on maintenance and repair items, timing belt, water pump, front axles, oil pan gasket, etc. Four days later, she was on her way back to school (about 3 hours drive), when the check engine light came on. She got off at the next exit, where it died. I went to tow it back to the dealer where the work was done, and found a split in the top of the radiator about 18 inches long. Funny thing is, it's not near any seams, which is where I would expect it to burst if it was a fatigue-related issue. Anyway, when the dealer looked at it, they found the head warped and a rod-knock, basically that it overheated and fried the motor. So now they want to ding me another $2500 for a new motor and radiator. I am still negotiating with them on that. I am very suspicious they caused the radiator damage when it was in the shop, but not really any way to prove that I guess.
The part I call the camshaft seal is at the end of the camshaft, and it would leak into the timing belt area (under where the drive belts are). The rockerarm assembly (where the 4 o-rings are, that could leak into the spark plug wells) holds the camshaft down, so that may be what he was referring to. Oil leaking through the 0-rings into the spark plug wells is common with these engines. It happened to my 92 Accord, and I changed the o-rings myself.
That must be it. The term they used in the service record is "Cam Tower Seal" and there were four of them replaced.
The car is still running strong, though I have and will have to fix a few things:
Cam tower seals at 150K ($280 dealer)
Front motor mount broken ($170 dealer quoted)
Outer CV boots at 160K ($180 at an independent mechanic)
Oil pan seepage without dripping ($350 dealer quoted)
Hairline crack at the top of the radiator ($???)
I am planning drive this car to 200K and beyond, and from the look of it, it is doable.
I am planning drive this car to 200K and beyond, and from the look of it, it is doable.
Oh yes. You can tell by how these cars are put together, they can go a long way. (with a little maintenance and care).
Any suggestions to what this could be? FYI I changed my radiator about 4 months ago. I guess this must be just a thing that happened on its own though I change the radiator on my 91 Accord and 6 months later the A/C stopped working. Just trying to give as much info. Thanks
Thanks
I'm not really a car guy, don't know much about them except changing oil, brakes, air filter. Anywho, when my parents bought the car back in 2002 it never came with the owners manual so I'm stuck trying to replace the low beam light bulb. Thought it would be easy but the driver side headlamp is blocked by the battery, air filter and this other box. So at the moment I'm not sure how to remove the box in order to replace the bulb, can anyone help?
Another problem is that the car shakes and rattle pretty hard now every time I brake and it doesn't brake smoothly, kind if you were to slowly roll the car and tap the brake repeatly. I just replaced my brakes 2-3 months ago.
Last but not least does anyone know the average cost of repair the CV (sp) bearings/joints?
Thank you
good luck!
1996 Honda Accord
My Accord runs smoothly, with no mechanical problems. Not bad for 175k miles.
The video was originally a lot longer but my camera battery died during the upload! I'll try and get a few more later!
Just want to make sure this particular model doesn't have a bad history for a major component. Thanks.
I don't recall hearing about any major component problems with cars from this generation, at all. Glad to hear the timing belt is new; that would have been a big question I'd have asked.
I say go for it.
Side-note: The 2.7L V6 in the 1995-1997 Accord is from the old Acura Legend.
For performance, all I need is something that's reliable and will get fairly good gas mileage. It's just going to be driven to/from work 30 miles/day and that's about it. From what I've heard, I'd trust an Accord or Camry in this price range over anything from the Big 3.
I saw some listed on cars.com that were asking more with 50k+ more miles on it than the one I'm looking at.