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Please HELP Thanks, Damian
Exactly. Mine doesn't really "light up" though, but what elroy said about resetting is exactly right.
If I recall correctly, it changes from green to yellow after 6,000 miles from being reset, and from yellow to red after 7,500 miles from being reset.
If you know the oil was changed within the last 6,000-7,500 miles, just reset it yourself.
Everybody told me not to worry about it. It's easy to reset.
7,500 is the maximum interval you are supposed to go in this car, and that is in easier conditions.
I like the Maintenance Minder. My Accord just hit 15% so I know it is time for an oil change and tire rotation.
This system is much better than the green/yellow/red colors. Those are not lights but colors on some sort of band that move with the odometer.
What I meant by the 12,000 mile mark is just that hey you need to have the car taken in now.
Since you're a big advocate for reading the manual it's in there.
The MM began with the 06. It's a system the measures what the engine is doing more than just relying on miles for scheduled maintenance.
Also, they are getting me the pricing options on new/used motors. How much would this normally cost?
Well that's more than co-incidence. The evidence is circumstantial but compelling.
Your problem however, is that the dealer can argue that even if the pump was installed incorrectly, your daughter should have stopped the car before the engine was destroyed, by watching the heat gauge. And that's a good defense.
So this might end as some 50-50 compromise on parts and labor. You could try to reach an agreement with the dealer, such as you buy the used engine and they install it for free (or vice-versa) or you could go to Small Claims Court and see what the judge says.
Without knowing all the facts, my offhand opinion is "mutual fault, so mutual contribution to expenses".
Also, back to my original message, is it normal for the radiator to just split open. It does not appear to be near any of the seams, which is where I would have expected such a failure, if it was really a coincidental issue and not caused by some external force. I have searched the forum and it does not seem to be a common occurrence.
The dealer's offer doesn't sound bad, especially with the warranty. However I would go over with him what the warranty includes and excludes. I would also go over with your daughter the circumstances of the event, without blame, to see what signs/signals she might have ignored, if any. In other words, if she drove with the car misbehaving, smelling strange, engine light blinking, etc, that might have been a really bad idea. She might need some instruction.
My feeling is that the coolant leaked out somehow and the radiator blew up and then the engine cooked itself.
Any suggestions on what the problem could possibly be?
This car is only driven 10-15k per year, so if it will really last that long, the new motor is a no brainer. I just don't want it to end up being a money pit.
Thoughts?
This problem has nothing to do with your heads. The oil can be getting in from one or both seams in the spark plug tubes. One seam is for the valve cover itself, and one is under the rockerarm assembly. The ones under the valve cover would be easy to replace. The o-rings under the rockerarms are a lot more complicated. If your head gasket was leaking the oil would be under the spark plug, not on top. If you want to try and repair this yourself, I may be able to find a link to a DIY.
If you don't mind, what happened to the motor? If the transmission fluid has been changed/maintained and it works normally, it should last much longer. Accords are rarely "money pits".
I had this on another thread, but just to recap. This is my daughter's car, she's a college student. I had just spent about $2000 on maintenance and repair items, timing belt, water pump, front axles, oil pan gasket, etc. Four days later, she was on her way back to school (about 3 hours drive), when the check engine light came on. She got off at the next exit, where it died. I went to tow it back to the dealer where the work was done, and found a split in the top of the radiator about 18 inches long. Funny thing is, it's not near any seams, which is where I would expect it to burst if it was a fatigue-related issue. Anyway, when the dealer looked at it, they found the head warped and a rod-knock, basically that it overheated and fried the motor. So now they want to ding me another $2500 for a new motor and radiator. I am still negotiating with them on that. I am very suspicious they caused the radiator damage when it was in the shop, but not really any way to prove that I guess.
The part I call the camshaft seal is at the end of the camshaft, and it would leak into the timing belt area (under where the drive belts are). The rockerarm assembly (where the 4 o-rings are, that could leak into the spark plug wells) holds the camshaft down, so that may be what he was referring to. Oil leaking through the 0-rings into the spark plug wells is common with these engines. It happened to my 92 Accord, and I changed the o-rings myself.
That must be it. The term they used in the service record is "Cam Tower Seal" and there were four of them replaced.
The car is still running strong, though I have and will have to fix a few things:
Cam tower seals at 150K ($280 dealer)
Front motor mount broken ($170 dealer quoted)
Outer CV boots at 160K ($180 at an independent mechanic)
Oil pan seepage without dripping ($350 dealer quoted)
Hairline crack at the top of the radiator ($???)
I am planning drive this car to 200K and beyond, and from the look of it, it is doable.
I am planning drive this car to 200K and beyond, and from the look of it, it is doable.
Oh yes. You can tell by how these cars are put together, they can go a long way. (with a little maintenance and care).
Any suggestions to what this could be? FYI I changed my radiator about 4 months ago. I guess this must be just a thing that happened on its own though I change the radiator on my 91 Accord and 6 months later the A/C stopped working. Just trying to give as much info. Thanks
Thanks
I'm not really a car guy, don't know much about them except changing oil, brakes, air filter. Anywho, when my parents bought the car back in 2002 it never came with the owners manual so I'm stuck trying to replace the low beam light bulb. Thought it would be easy but the driver side headlamp is blocked by the battery, air filter and this other box. So at the moment I'm not sure how to remove the box in order to replace the bulb, can anyone help?
Another problem is that the car shakes and rattle pretty hard now every time I brake and it doesn't brake smoothly, kind if you were to slowly roll the car and tap the brake repeatly. I just replaced my brakes 2-3 months ago.
Last but not least does anyone know the average cost of repair the CV (sp) bearings/joints?
Thank you
good luck!
1996 Honda Accord
My Accord runs smoothly, with no mechanical problems. Not bad for 175k miles.
The video was originally a lot longer but my camera battery died during the upload! I'll try and get a few more later!
Just want to make sure this particular model doesn't have a bad history for a major component. Thanks.
I don't recall hearing about any major component problems with cars from this generation, at all. Glad to hear the timing belt is new; that would have been a big question I'd have asked.
I say go for it.
Side-note: The 2.7L V6 in the 1995-1997 Accord is from the old Acura Legend.
For performance, all I need is something that's reliable and will get fairly good gas mileage. It's just going to be driven to/from work 30 miles/day and that's about it. From what I've heard, I'd trust an Accord or Camry in this price range over anything from the Big 3.
I saw some listed on cars.com that were asking more with 50k+ more miles on it than the one I'm looking at.