Honda Fit Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

steveskyrm

We went into a dealer, and put down a $500 deposit on a Sport A/T. Gave them 3 color choices, and they said they'd start looking for one. 2 days later, another local dealer shows one coming in on their website. I call dealer A, and they ignore my info, and never contact dealer B. Dealer A wants to add $500 paint/fabric protector, and isn't real firm on my trade-in value. Is it EVER possible to get your deposit back? They won't budge.

Thanks,

Steve

Kirstie_H

Not only is it possible, in most cases they have to give you your deposit back. You don't even have a signed sales agreement, obviously, since a firm prices hasn't even been agreed on. If you want your deposit back, get tough with Dealer A - they don't have the right to keep it.

dylaninal

Wondering is anyone has any thought on the going price for a used S-10 Chevy pick-up, 2001 with 20,000 miles---they are asking $8 for it---really want it but seems like this is too high---any suggestions?

Kirstie_H

Hi dylaninal,
Since this topic is about Honda Fit pricing, you're better off visiting our Real-World Trade-In Values discussion. If you click that link, you'll be taken to the right topic.

ardenne

I went into Fit shopping a couple of weeks ago expecting to pay sticker + destination + tax, but so far I've found only a few dealers willing to even say they'll sell it at sticker price -- and then it turns out that they've added all kinds of extra fees on top of that, like an $800 'dealer prep fee' or a $400 'processing fee,' jacking the price up to anywhere from $1000-$2500 over sticker.

What kinds of fees, if any, should I accept as reasonable, or should I keep trying to hold out for sticker + destination + tax and nothing more, period?

We're in KY, in case it varies by state. Thanks in advance.

fitman548

any 'fees' you pay other than dock, which is $550 IIRC, are bogus. Now, most dealers are adding features like window tint, pin striping, protectant, etc etc. That's to be expected on this car, but at least you GET something for the money.

Dealer prep fees are a crock.

ardenne

That's what I thought, but I wanted to be sure, since I'm not an expert at the new-car buying game. Thanks.

I guess we'll just keep on hunting for an honest dealer.

gearhead1

You should pay:

-MSRP or neg price off of MSRP.
-destination
-doc fee
-sales tax

note: doc fees can vary wildly from dealer to dealer. A doc fee can range from $50.00 to $700.00 in my experience so check around. Once a dealer sets their doc fee they have to legally charge everybody the same fee. It is not negotiable. Even the dealer pays the doc fee from a legal stand point, though he may cut himself a pretty good deal way below invoice . He better show a doc fee in his paper work. So don't try to negotiate the doc fee. Negotiate the price of the car and keep the doc fee in mind when deciding what you want to pay for the car. The doc fee is after all just built in profit especially when it's pushing $700.00.

A typical ploy are dealerships that advertise all their vehicles are $500 over invoice, but they have a $700.00 doc fee when you hit the finance office.

I paid a $249.00 doc fee at my dealer and MSRP, dest, tax.

fitman548

The Honda website has the $550 as the Destination charge.

ardenne

Thanks, all of you. I had the MSRP, invoice, and destination charges off of Edmunds and the Honda web site, but I just wasn't sure what other fees, if any, were appropriate.

Should I expect to have to pay an extra fee for temporary tags? One dealer said they'd have to charge me $400 for temp tags, but no one else mentioned anything similar -- is it perhaps built into the 'doc' fee, most of the time?

gearhead1

Should I expect to have to pay an extra fee for temporary tags? One dealer said they'd have to charge me $400 for temp tags, but no one else mentioned anything similar -- is it perhaps built into the 'doc' fee, most of the time?

$400 sounds like their doc fee. There might be some other small fees but they should be very reasonable. If he is saying temp tags are $400 and their doc fee is $500 or something like that, run away.

gearhead1

OK, I just looked at my reciept and there were these fees:

-Fit including destination $16,520
-Dealer documentary service fee $249.95
-sales tax $1048.12
-license and registration 43.50
-fees: age based/property assessment $150.00
-state waste tire recycling fee $5.00

out the door for 18,016.57 for Fit Sport AT/paddles

fitsutra

Steve,

I had the same problem with a dealer. The salesperson said the deposit was refundable. Since I purchased my FIT from another dealer, I called back the salesperson and asked for a refund for my deposit. He said he will credit my card to refund ym deposit. A few days later, still no credit. I talked to his sales manager and he said the deposit was non-refundable. I told the SM that was BS because I was told by his salesperson that the deposit was refundable.

Step 1: I called Honda of America (800-999-1009) to open a case against this dealership. HMA said they will contact the General Manager and will inform them a case has filed against his dealership.
Step 2: I called my credit card to dispute the charges.

Two weeks later I received my refund. Your deposit is refundable. You definitely need to get your money back.

frogdaddy

I live in Atlanta and all I seem to see in transit or at dealers are automatics. Honda must think we spend lots of time in traffic so we wouldn't desire a manual. The manual is going to be faster off the line, no? I hear the paddles are useless because the thing will shift for you anyway (don't want someone forgetting they're in manual mode and break it). So, it's only good for passing?

Also, every dealer seems to be adding 800+ with the sealer crap for fabric and body? How can I avoid that? "It's because dealers aren't making much money on them"

Thanks.

mattschechter

Hi Ardenne,

I'm in So Cal where these cars are selling at quite the premium but using the internet I was able to get Base AT for MSRP + Tax + $45 doc fee. I'd recommend using the quote requests from Edmunds, KBB, and fit.honda.com to get quotes from as many dealers in your area as possible. The internet managers nearly always push the price below the "walk-in" price and they know that internet shoppers are informed, savvy, and not easily scammed (unlike the rest of the impulsive car-buying population). Take these quotes and shop around... you'd be surprised by how many dealers are willing to meet or beat their competitor's prices.

Another trick to getting the low price you want is to stress the fact that, with the right deal, you're ready to put money down today. Dealerships hate to pass up on an easy and sure sale, even if their profit margins aren't as large as they'd like (it's not like they're not making money).

The last piece of advice is, if possible, make appointments with the internet sales folks mid-week and mid-day. They aren't going to be very busy and they know that if they make the sale their managers are going to be pleased because there's not much action anywhere else in the dealership. This is, of course, in your favor.

Hope this helps and good luck!!

fittastic

After reading some of these posts, I feel very fortunate to have found my new Fit. I bought it Thursday night for $200 under the MSRP! That alone made me smile from ear to ear because I knew it would be difficult to get under MSRP. (Note that I called every single Honda dealer within 100 miles to get the best "out the door" price... 95% said MSRP plus tax, title, etc and 95% said that there was a good several week to several MONTH wait on them).

I got the base model in white (wanted black, but beggers can't be choosers eh) with MT and I absolutely love this car. It's so much roomier inside than it looks and it drives wonderfully. I bought it with 95 miles already on it (transfer) and now have 510 miles. I picked the car up with a full tank of gas and put 355 miles on it before having to put 9.2 gallons of gas in it.

I can't say enough GOOD things about this car! I've gone from a 16-year-old Accord to a brand new, tiny Fit and all I can say is... the FIT IS GO!

This car is the best

johnnyvj

Also, every dealer seems to be adding $800+ with the sealer crap for fabric and body? How can I avoid that? "It's because dealers aren't making much money on them".

Thats an excuse dealers love to give, but frankly, its full of crap.

Yes, the Fit's MSRP is priced only about $600 or so above invoice, but its not like the dealer gets ONLY that $600... there's also another kickback (forget what its called) that goes to the dealer that's worth at least 3% of the invoice price.

So, even if the dealer sells you a Fit at MSRP, they're probably making over $1000 on it... not too shabby. Also, you now know why Honda dealerships have no problem selling oodles of Accords at invoice... they are NOT 'just breaking even' on the deal, they are still making money.

As the $800 'fabric treatments', 'rustproofing' and 'clear coating' stuff is nearly pure profit padding (actual cost to the dealer is a fraction of that, and its utility to the buyer is dubious, at best), I'd say 'adios' to any dealer who insists that you swallow such an add-on as part of the deal. Or who tries to add it in at the last minute.

Shop around 'til you find a dealer who's happy to make 'merely' $1000 off of a MSRP deal on the Fit, and/or wait a couple of months for the initial feeding frenzy to die down. You'll get your Fit for MSRP, without the stupid rip-off add-ons, if you're willing to do the legwork and/or wait a little while.

frogdaddy

Well then I guess I got screwed. I negotiated 16365 MSRP.
+550.

johnnyvj

Yeah, maybe you did a bit. But I would say that a lot of the early adopters of the Fit did. Supply vs demand and all that.

On the plus side, you got the car before almost everybody else. You'll probably get a lot of questions/compliments about it. :shades:

ardenne

Thanks again, everyone.

Gearhead, the dealer with the $400 fee for the temp tags claimed that it was necessary because he's in a neighboring state -- ie, we'd be registering it out of state. He also had a separate doc fee of several hundred dollars, so given what I know at this point, I'm going to just completely avoid that dealership in the future.

I think we're probably going to put our purchase on hold for a few months to see if the market calms down a bit, then go the online quotes route to find the best price. I really appreciate all of the helpful info I've gathered here so far and will probably continue to lurk around while we're waiting!

nordo

I have a question for the Honda Salespeople out there.

I put down a deposit for Vivid Blue Pearl, Fit Sport, 5M on May 15. It was not on thier list. They were going to dealer swap for it and order it to see what got there first.

I just got a call form the Salesman today saying North American Honda is not taking any orders for the 5 Speed Manual Fit. Is this true? Am I being fed a line?

He said they have looked in the 5 states that border mine and have not been able to find one. He was the first to offer my deposit back.
I am away on a deployment right now and won’t be back till the end of the month.
Thanks for your help

kyfdx

ardenne...

Like you.... I live in KY, and bought a car in a neighboring state... My total fees, other than sales tax were $114.. I don't have a breakdown, but this included temporary tags, registration, plates... everything..

Buying a FIT is kind of tough, as they are popular and in short supply, so I can't say you'll have an easy time... Just keep in mind that separate "document" fees that don't go specifically to the government for a specific purpose are only there to add to the profit margin.

regards,
kyfdx

dotseurat

So I picked up my storm silver base model today. I went in there totally intending on not going with an extended warranty (but in the back of my mind thinking...what if I regret it? haha). Well, I meet with the finance guy, and he talks me into it. Damnit. I lived with it and walked out of there being okay with paying $256 a month. Hours later, it dawns on me. I don't know why I didn't realize it when I was supposed to! He changed it to 66 months rather than 60!! What the hell was wrong with me?! Then I'm reminded of my dear old departed Dad'd advice...extended warranties are just ways for them to make money and are a waste of money on our part. I guess what really bugged me, though, was that I was suddely paying over 66 months. So I called the finance guy and asked him what we can do to cancel it. He told me I could either come in and draw up a new contract (but I couldn't do it til the end of the week, which was a problem) or he could could cancel the warranty, keep my payment plan as is, and I'll just end up paying it off sooner. He said he'd send me a letter confirming this and the warranty will come off of my statement when I get my first one. So I chose that option as I can't go there until Friday. He said in order to write up a new contract it would have to be right away because the bank already knows it's out there and it has to be sent to them (and Honda would be paying interest on those days to wait).

So...do I trust this guy? Do I wait to see if this truly does go through? I have some people at the freakfit.net forums telling me I can't trust him. I'm sick to my stomach with myself right now. I can't believe I messed this up- I thought I was smarter than that. I'm most certainly old enough to do this on my own, but I still mess it up. Any advice is appreciated.

frogdaddy

I supposedly got dinged on my trade. Do believe he said I would get dinged on my trade because the tires weren't V rates tires therefore, it wouldn't qualify as honda certified (2004 Accord 36+ miles)? Whatever. Question though can I get a cheaper deal on an extended warranty? Finance guy was somewhat irritated when I said know to the $1300 extended warranty. Then he tried a $550 dollar maintainance agreement for each service interval. I said no. All in all I think it worked out. I love this car. The paddles are cool. Now I really believe you can work down the dealer bump sticker (895). Enjoy!!!!

mattschechter

Well, I don't know about trusting the finance guy or not... go with your gut. I do know that Honda Care has a 60 day no penalty opt out period but I can't say the same for non-Honda Care warranties (most dealers try to sell non-Honda Care b/c there's more profit). Along those lines, I would highly recommend buying Honda Care (Full Disclosure: I'm not a dealer and I don't work for Honda). If one major item goes wrong during the life of the warranty, it can pay for itself many times over. The other advantage is that every Honda dealer across the nation must honor it and is familiar with the terms. The same cannot be said for Dealer Warranty X.

That said, don't bother buying Honda Care from the dealer that sold you the car because he's just going to screw you for more profit. Instead, take advantage of the fact that ANY Honda dealer can sell you Honda Care within the first 6000 miles of your new car without paying a penalty. Check out http://www.collegehillshonda.com/hondacare/warranty.htm and http://www.jayhondacare.com/Fit.htm for the best deals I could find online, and good luck getting your money back!!

frogdaddy

I mispelled something. I didn't get the $1300 extended he was pushing. So, I can buy this thing even though I didn't buy it right away?
Thanks.

frogdaddy

One more thing. Is the $100 deductible per occurence or year? I don't know if that makes sense.

mattschechter

Yes, if you have less than 6000 miles you can buy it without paying a delay penalty. Between 6000-36,000 miles you'll pay a small penalty of less than $100 (I think). I've also heard that you pay no penalty through 2 Years/24,000 but I've yet to see that in writing.

In answer to your other question, there are at least two types of plans. The $100 deductible is about $100 cheaper at the time of purchase but they charge you $100 per visit (NOTE: this is not "per item" so if 1 or 100 things are fixed during a single visit you only pay $100 but if you go in 3 times for 3 different things then that's $300). The $0 deductible plans are $100 more expensive when you buy it but realize that if you use the plan just once you've broken even (chances are good that you'll use the warranty at some point in the car's life... these are complicated machines!). If I were you, I'd spend the extra $100 now and get a no-deductible plan so you don't have to fork it out again and again later. Let me know if I can help with anything else!

frogdaddy

Thanks for your feedback. I'll still be saving $300 bucks by not going through the dealer and their "Hendrick" warranty. And I'd probably be getting more from Honda.

One more thing and I'll let you be. Does it cover more components or the "little things" than others?

Thanks again.

fitman548

I originally opted for a Mechanical Service Plan from Executive, sold to me thorugh the dealer. 6 years, 100,000 miles on everything but fluids, brake pads, hoses, the basic limited wear items. It was $1320 at signing.

however, I just realized that Geico, through its new car risk package, has 7 year 100,000 mile coverage for mechanical break down of the same parts. And that's only $28 every 6 mos!

I have to go to the dealer and fill out a paper within 30 days of the purchase date to cancel the Executive service plan. you don't get a refund; the money gets send to Honda of America (the lien holder) and deducted off of the principal.

mattschechter

No bother at all! Honda Care is an exclusionary warranty which means that it covers everything that isn't listed on a short list of non-covered items. This is the best list I could find: http://www.curryhondacare.com/coverage.cfm?CFID=21899&CFTOKEN=53568710 but the contract you sign should have all of the details. I don't know how this compares to the "other guys" (I would guess it stacks up well) but I do know that you get genuine Honda parts and certified Honda technicians working on your car FWIW.

skikidd

Hey Frog,
I'm in the AL/GA area and looking desperately for a base MT. You said you knew of several dealers who were getting some in July?? Anyway I can get that information from you? I need a car w/ in the next 3 weeks and am having a hell of a time finding a MT! Anywhere!

frogdaddy

I may have not typed correctly or used the right acronym. I don't know if they will have Manuals. I looked at Autonation and they had nothing but automatics (base and sport)in Tennessee or Florida. I looked at every surrounding dealer in Atlanta and no Manuals. So I just went with the next sport A/T that came in and was the color I wanted. This past tues. I was called by Gwinnett Place Honda, they just came off the truck and hadn't even been prepped yet. I got a Silver with 12 miles on it. The dealer says they base the number they get on the number of civics they sell I guess because this is the first year of the fit in U.S. In July they are getting a crap load of them. Call around and find out what's in transit. I really don't buy their is a waiting list at this point because I saw them last Friday and test drove a base and he showed me a transit list for this week and then all of July. So, if there was such a list then why did he call me 4 days later and no one else grabbed them before me? I wasn't lulled into a deposit either. Good luck with finding a manual. I like the paddles myself.
I have the option to have a little fun or just let the car drive in traffic when I want. Cool concept!!!

frogdaddy

Thanks. Some reason I like sticking with the Honda idea.
Some of these places if you google them have complaints or strict stipulations when having work done or they're fly by night co's. If you don't follow the agreement to the word they won't cover.

moparbad

What is vehicle theft registration?

dap2006

Thanks for the excellent overview. I put a $500 deposit on a Storm Silver Sport AT my dealer's internet manager tells me was scheduled to be built 9 Jun. I'm in Tucson - how long would you estimate my car will take to get here? I'm being told 3 - 4 weeks but I'm discovering the person I'm dealing with isn't very responsive :mad: so I'm interested in your thoughts. :confuse:

fitman548

When I put a deposit on my fit in mid to late May, it had a VIN already, so it had been built.

it was shipped and delivered to the dealer on June 13. I'm in Phoenix. It hit San Diego on 6/7 and took 6 days to get here. The dealer should get motification, or can find out, when it hits California

poohbear62

Try contacting the better business bureau, or threaten to report the dealership to the State Attorney General. You pay taxes so big brother can watchout for you.

dap2006

I also made my deposit in late May - the 23rd to be exact. My receipt has a VIN number but wasn't due to be built 'til 9 Jun according to my dealer POC. Does Honda in fact not assign a VIN number prior to build as I was told they did? :confuse: Were you told what date your car was built? Were you given a ship date?

I'm curious as to how much info you were given during the process. I purchased a new TL several months back and my salesman was very responsive and helpful. I'm getting my Fit from the same dealer but on the Honda side, of course. I'm starting to get the feeling their "internet manager" knows this is popular car right now so he's not worried about selling this car to someone else, if not me - it seems he allots his customer service skills accordingly. I'll wait and see how the rest of this transaction goes - then I'll be sure to give the appropriate feedback when Honda calls with the post-sale survey.

fitman548

The car is not given a VIN until it's finished being built.

The internet/fleet guy should have a print out. Vehicles with VIN have approxiamte shipping dates..the date it leaves Japan. Vehicles without VINs are 'supposed' to be built. Putting a deposit on one of these means you're still 8 weeks out, and the specs could change.

gbw1

Ordered a Sport, Auto, Blue. Originally wanted a Manual, but a several month wait was not an option. Since the sport comes with the shifting paddles, and I'm getting lazier, I figured what the heck. Additionaly, the auto has lower RPM's at highway speed.
Price: MSRP plus $218 doc fees (16,738). Will be delivered end of July. Getting it from the Honda dealer in Eugene Oregon - about 150 mile drive away.
I'm very happy considering the many offers I recieved. Some dealers had up to a 8 month wait. Most had a 3-4 month wait. Only 2 out of 12 offered it at MSRP. One had it 3,000 over MSRP.
I used the honda website to contact dealers within a 500 mile radius and simply asked for a quote. A few calls and emails, and I had it wrapped up in one morning. No hassles. Using the internet is the only way to go

mavstang73

I too have a deposit on a car. The dealer is in New York.
I've been given a buyer's order with a VIN number.

I made the deposit on June 4 and they said the car would be in next week.
Well obviously that was a couple of weeks ago. They told me the car would be in from the 26-30 now.
I'm just worried they gave me someone else's VIN or something.
I would think the car would be in by now.

fitman548

Well, the cars port in at San Diego. From there to phoenix took about 6 days, so to New York could take another week.

dewaltdakota

My car came into the USA via the Port of Baltimore, then trucked to my dealership in Virginia from there. The thought of a NY Fit coming into the USA through San Diego seems a little strange.

jmurman42

No...your car came to the Port of Baltimore after being on a train from the west coast. The delivery was made to your dealership from the Port of Baltimore.

hungarian83

"The thought of a NY Fit coming into the USA through San Diego seems a little strange."

I would highly doubt that is the case. I think all Fits are transported to a large port in the region. I wouldn't be surprised if the NY Fit would be taken by ship all the way to New York...or maybe a port in New Jersey? (Sorry, I don't know much about that region )

My car's Port of Entry was San Diego, but then again that is where the dealership is too.

nofitforme

Placed an order on May 9th with dealer A. When I learned it wouldn't be in the dealership until late August, I started looking around. Lo and behold, another local dealer had the exact one I wanted. I offered to pay MSRP and he accepted the offer. I got my deposit back from dealer A and went to dealer B. Now dealer B wanted me to buy a bunch of add-ons to increase his profit margin. $1400 worth of add-ons to be exact.

I left and bought a Mazda 6. I paid 17046 delivered plus document fees and tax. I'm happy to have a nice car and be out of the Fit rat race.

roundtrip

Oxford/Anniston, AL-- Sunny King Honda has had MT- base model. Two of their first four in May were manual (at least one MT was Base). We saw the Fit, were really curious, and test drove an automatic. As for our pick of the crop, the salesman told us that the dealership was not able to request models. They would get what they get. (The base was not very attractive to me at all.) I think they sold all 4 of the May shipment. We went to the dealership a couple of weeks later and didn't see any. As of 6/18 they had a MT. Don't know if it was base model. (After I saw there was no armrest in the Fit, I decided I did not want one. I drive a lot and need that silly little piece of equipment. Then later I found out the gas tank is under the front seats. Scary!) Good luck.

roundtrip

Thanks for your great breakdown. What was the $ destination fee?

carfanatic007

It's from Japan, does it matter?