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Tahoe Suburban Brake Questions



  • Each and every time I apply my brakes on my 2007 Suburban, 3800 miles, they squeak severely. I continue to bring it in to the dealership and they continue to tell me that this is normal?? Is this accurate?? Any advise??
  • bk777bk777 Posts: 32
    Normal...not! Don't accept that answer. Make em' track it down and fix the problem. Brake noise is a possible sign of a serious problem.

    Ask the dealer to pull the wheels and inspect everything...including the parking brake assemblies. It is not impossible to have a premature wear-out on the PB...there have been problems with that design.
  • I have a 2003 Tahoe Lt 4x4, just had front and rear pads and rotors replaced, hoped this would give the pedal a better feel, to no avail. my wife feels like the truck is not going to stop on time. the garage installed semi metallic pads, would a different type have helped or am I going to have to live with it?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Have you tried bleeding your brake lines? If air accumulates in them the brakes will have a mushy feel.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • biglubiglu Posts: 7
    I just got my used 02 Tahoe! I can hear the right wheel squeaking when I brake. I checked the brake fluid and it is between max and min. What should I do next?
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    biglu said: I just got my used 02 Tahoe! I can hear the right wheel squeaking when I brake. I checked the brake fluid and it is between max and min. What should I do next?
    Take the vehicle to a good brake have some serious problems here, probably caliper/pad/disc wear. And the longer you wait to repair it the more costly it will be.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    "Ask the dealer to pull the wheels and inspect everything...including the parking brake assemblies. It is not impossible to have a premature wear-out on the PB...there have been problems with that design."

    Are you sure the PB is the same design in the 2007 GM 900's that it was for the prior generation of trucks (GM 800 series)?
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    You're just going to have to live with it. Common issue. Welcome to the world of early 21st century Chevy brakes. There is a fix. Unfortunately it involves buying a new / later model truck; one built after the problem(s) were corrected.
  • jewaldjewald Posts: 1
    On Sunday i put a waverunner in the water then went home. Noticed that my turn signal were flashing fast. Then Mon. night noticed that now had NO turn signals, no brake lights, no parking lights. Fixed the turn signals but can't figure out others. All fuses are fine, no relays to be found. WOuld it be the turn signal switch? Would the water have caused all the problems? Or was that just coincidence?
  • Extremley hard braking is required to stop vehicle. All new brake parts (master cyl, slaves, calipers, pads, drums, fluid, etc.) replaced. Has been this way since purchased used. Serviced by prof. mechs. that can't figured it out. Every thing appears to be routed correctly. Has 2" lift. Mechs. thought it might be the rear proportioning, but does not appear to be that. Anyone have any experience with this?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Doesn't that sound like a power brake booster problem?
  • That is what we originally thought. Everything has been changed with the exception of the lines and proportioning valves (front and rear). Besides the boost is a helper and should be able to be overriden with hard braking but it is nearly impossible to lock up the brakes. Except on wet pavement. Several mechanics have been stumped. They have pressure tested the entire system at the cylinders and this is within specs. Tried different pads and shoes, everything. It calls for semi-metallic but tried a straight organic and this helps only slightly but wear excessively fast. I know the vehicle is heavy but you would think that the brakes would still lock up. :cry: It is just frustrating. It is most likely a small oversight that is obvious no one is seeing it. I even thought the rubber flex lines might be swelling and not applying all the pressure but that also check out. :cry: :cry:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you replace the brake booster also? Is it getting the necessary vaccuum?
  • 07 suburban 1500 with roughly 24,000 miles. this truck has had 4 sets of brake pads since it was purchased 1 year ago due to very loud squeeking. i have been told that chevrolet has an updated pad due to all of the complaints. has anyone else heard of this. we have been blown off by several dealers but i found a dealer that seems to have found the update on chevy's tech support line. any information would be helpful
  • toi1toi1 Posts: 3
    Hi i cant help but im having the same problem with my 1997 suburban. Can you help if you already fixed it? the bulbs and fuses are ok abd the indicator ionside blinks fast however brake and turn signal light at rear dont work.

  • toi1toi1 Posts: 3
    The blinkers on dash blink rapidly fast however turn signal and brakelights at rear dont work. Can anyone please help?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your bulbs, you have one with most likely a broken filament.
  • toi1toi1 Posts: 3
    Yes i went out and got new bulbs and the problem still exists. The parking lights and everything else back there works fine.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    The blinkers on dash blink rapidly fast however turn signal and brakelights at rear dont work. Can anyone please help?
    Sounds to me like you have some burned out bulbs. Take the lens off the tail/backup light and check the bulbs. You should be able to see if the filiments are broken or not. Even if they look OK you might want to switch out the bulbs because sometimes you can't see the break in the filament. Bulbs are cheap, give it a try. If they still don't work you will at least have some spare bulbs after you find the real problem which is now probably wiring related.
  • hello,i have a 2002 chevrolet tahoe,4x4,my brakes are terrible,when you push the pedal faster to stop the car,it doenst happen,but when you press the pedal slowly to stop the car,starts to vibrate ,and you can feel it on your foot,i already change my brake caliper from the passenger side,but still doing the same thing,anyone here has any ideia what could be?thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Most likely your front rotors are warped.
  • jwood3jwood3 Posts: 1
    My 96 suburban started having problems with brake lights and cruise control when it rained. Found a group of damaged wires where they pass from body to frame behind the kick panel next to the drivers left foot. I am tall and my foot rests against that panel but it might be more common as there was no chaffe protection for the wires.
  • I am at a stop with my wifes 02 tahoe. This does not happen all the time.
    The brakes on the tahoe are stiking or dragging. I took the the truck to a local shop and they adjusted the rear parking brakes. last night when I drove the truck it felt heavy, and whe we got home the wheel were very hot.
    This morning I raised the front wheel of the truck and its spins fine so I don't think its the wheel bearing and I don't think there is an adjustment for the brakes.
    Any help will be appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Which wheels were hot? The rear, were the local shop adjusted the brakes....or the fronts?

    If it is the fronts that were hot, try jacking up the car and turning the wheels after the wheels are opposed to when they've cooled down overnight. I suspect you'll find one or both hard to turn. If so, you'll want to replace your front calipers, and might as well do new pads while you have everything apart. Check the front rotors for heat spots, replace rotors if heat spots....or, if you have brake pulsating while stopping.

    Make sure they flush the brake system with new brake fluid.
  • Thanks for the responce,
    All 4 wheels were hot. I took the truck to local auto parts store and they pointed to the brake booster, I went back to the local shop and they said that the brakes don't have adjustment(I knew that), then he said that problem seems to be the brake booster or the master cylinder.
    A friend of mine that works on cars also pointed to the booster. He also said that he would help me install the unit at no charge! It will be in tomorow.
    I will post in a couple of days..
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Personally, I would suspect the master cylinder before the brake booster.
  • I replaced the brake booster and no more problems. but now I hear a small amount of air coming from inside the brake booster when brakes are applied all the way in.
    I talked to the autoparts store and it will be replace with another unit.
    Thanks on the master cylinder suggestion, I think I'm going to replace that also.since I'm already there.
  • We have had nothing but brake problems with our '03 Suburban since day one. We repeatedly took it in for a "rubbing" brake noise. No cause was ever found. It has been in with e-brake problems. Had to be replaced because was hanging up. Then last winter the e-brake would freeze and we would be stuck! We were told that this can happen and not to set our brake! Well that is NOT acceptable. We finally took it back to the dealership where we got it and had them replace rotor and all. Last Friday we had park brake cable replaced because it had broke. Now last night the brake froze again!!!! I keep being told to not set it, but this must be a design flaw because we have NEVER had this happen on any other GM vehicle or truck we have owned!

    Any others out there with the same problem??
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Never had a problem with previous GM Truck, or either of the two Suburbans we've had for collectively over 12 years. I think what I'd do on the parking brake problem, is oil that up soo good that any moisture in the cable would be repelled away. That's a pretty mechanical linkage, not sure why they can't fix the problem.
  • I have an 01 burb, 4WD,115Kmi., and same thing happens at odd times. Dealer has told me the fix involves ABS controls and would cost at least 1K but still might not solve the problem! Started originally when ABS engaged in snowy conditions and light would not go out until vehicle turned off. Can't modern diagnostics accurately id a problem like this? I'm not handy enough to mess with it myself... Thanks for any help.
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