Tahoe Suburban Brake Questions

in Chevrolet
What is the problem whe the abs light comes on.
0
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Comments
tidester, host
j_rohas, "Isuzu Axiom" #2397, 8 Apr 2006 7:42 pm
Please continue over there. You may want to check out Stop here! Let's talk about brakes. Thanks,
Steve, Host
tidester, host
If this is a low speed problem , it usually occurs when parking ,what they call the curb bumper. The brakes fail to a point that you lunge into the curb ,or concrete tire stops at parking lots. Its GMs problem to fix . check out gm recalls.
If this is a low speed problem , it usually occurs when parking ,what they call the curb bumper. The brakes fail to a point that you lunge into the curb ,or concrete tire stops at parking lots. Its GMs problem to fix . check out gm recalls.
I have attached a description of the recall that i found on line.
http://www.uautono.com/recallsarchive2005.html
GM to recall 553,000 SUVs, trucks to fix brakes (12/24/05)
General Motors Corp. is expanding an earlier recall of sport utility vehicles and pickup trucks to include another 553,000 vehicles because of potential problems with brakes. Unwanted application of the anti-lock brake system in some vehicles can cause increased stopping distances during low-speed braking. GM in August recalled 804,000 full-size pickup trucks and SUVs in 14 states for the same problem. The recall is being expanded to include Delaware, Iowa, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Wisconsin and the District of Columbia. Vehicles affected by the recall include the Chevrolet Avalanche and Silverado pickups and the Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe SUVs. The GMC Sierra pickup and Yukon and Yukon XL SUVs are also affected. All the vehicles are from the 1999-2002 model years. More than 200 crashes and some minor injuries were linked to the recall.
OK its covered under the extended warranty.
Its due for tires and alignment that was on my radar already anyway.
Now the shocker. He says I a complete brake job on all 4 wheels. Rotors drums the works. The vehichle has 53K on it.
OK I could see needing some brake work at that mileage (mostly highway). But having everything re done?
So is there an inherent issue with the brakes on this vehicle that I don't know about? Is there anything I can do to address or correct his issue so I'm not repeating the complete brake job again a year or 2 down the road?
Thanks,
Chris
Do you feel something wrong with brakes when you use them? Have you looked at your brakes yourself?
--Arrie--
Usually this indicates that you need new shocks for your vehicle but in some vehicles, like in a 1500 4x4 Dodge ram that I have, it seems to be a bad design as the new stock shocks don't help.
--Arrie--
Get used to it!!!. My wife's 97 Suburban has about 90k miles on it. The 1st set of pads were toasted along with the rotors with less that 15k miles. The dealer did the 1st change out of the pads/rotors, albeit on our our nickel. By switching to to the new more expensive ceramic pads, we tend to get about 20-25k between pad changes. The rear brakes have been get changed every other time we do the front pads. We were also impacted by the corrosion build-up in the front hubs which cause the ABS system to malfunction. That's an easy fix as well if your vehicle isn't covered with the GM selective recall.
Hope this puts a little perspective on the issue given the vehicle weighs in at over two tons empty.
Thanks,
Joe
I thank you in advance for your advise.
I am new to this forum. Please advise if this post is in a wrong forum.
Is anyone seeing the rear brake pads wearing WAY faster than the fronts? I have a 2003 Tahoe 4WD and I am now on my 3rd set of rear pads and have not touched the fronts.
My thought is that the proportioning valve is either malfunctioning, or set up incorrectly as I have always been under the impression that most of the braking is done by the front brakes.
Thanks for any input.
Erik.
Yesterday while out doing a little four wheeling I notice my brakes did not work that well.
While on a dirt road, going slightly down hill and at the bottom I stepped on my brakes to avoid going through the dip to fast. I was in 4 HI and only going about 10mph. As I applied my brakes to slow down they just pulsated instead of having a steady braking action. They would not allow me to come to a complete stop and had a very hard time trying to slow down. I've drove for many years and have owned several vehicles and even now have another 4 wheel drive Jeep. What happened did not seem right.
Does anyone know if this is the same problem with the Tahoe Brakes, and if so is this part of the recall to where I could have it corrected?
Thanks
A solution when off roading is to lower your tire pressures to 25 PSI or lower and get tires with better off road tread pattern.
Second question, I have the push button 4WD and when I engage the 4WD and drive it for 1-2 miles the service 4x4 light comes on but I still have 4WD. But I cannot disengage the 4WD until I turn off the truck for a few minutes then re-start it and it will then dis-engage. Anyone?
Thanks
tidester, host
I have tried to use various makes of rotors and pads, the braking distance is pathetically long (about double of any other vehicle i have ever driven), yet they all wear out in about 10-15k Mi. The consensus seems that: "they are all like that" & "they have improved on them after 2000 and again 2003" My burb is an ex police Hwy interceptor, I can not imagine how they did high speed chases with non existent brakes. I just heard that you can actually put the master cylinder of a K2500 on these and that is suppose to reduce braking distance. does anyone have any experience with them, or modifying the hydro booster?
Tnx
Ty
Thanks
Drivers side works normal.
I Try to push the brake pads back and no go.
I open the bleed and the caliper moves back like normal.
Pump the brakes back up and drags again not just a little but like you are pushing the brakes
I can bleed it at the master cylinder fitting and the caliper will push back.
I have never had one side to the other not working the same,
Any info would be great.
The brake hose on the right side had swelled.
When you pushed the brake the hose would open from the pressure but would not let the fluid return making the pads drag.
If you think you have this problem pump up the brake and crack open the bleed line.
The brake fluid leaks and the brake pad stops draging.
Pump the brake again and crack open the brake line at the top of the hose at the frame.
If the brake is still dragging then your hose is not letting the fluid back out and making the brake drag.
The hose has swelled on the in side and is not letting the fluid return.
Ask the dealer to pull the wheels and inspect everything...including the parking brake assemblies. It is not impossible to have a premature wear-out on the PB...there have been problems with that design.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Take the vehicle to a good brake shop.....you have some serious problems here, probably caliper/pad/disc wear. And the longer you wait to repair it the more costly it will be.
Are you sure the PB is the same design in the 2007 GM 900's that it was for the prior generation of trucks (GM 800 series)?
Thanks,
[email protected]
Thanks,
[email protected]
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Sounds to me like you have some burned out bulbs. Take the lens off the tail/backup light and check the bulbs. You should be able to see if the filiments are broken or not. Even if they look OK you might want to switch out the bulbs because sometimes you can't see the break in the filament. Bulbs are cheap, give it a try. If they still don't work you will at least have some spare bulbs after you find the real problem which is now probably wiring related.