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I got tired of hearing the tape hiss using a cassette adapter with my MP3 player. So, I tried using an inline FM modulator which sounded horrible. I couldn't believe how badly it sounded. Just poor, poor quality.
I knew from taking out the head unit several times that it is made by Clarion. So, I searched the web and found a product called "PIE CLR-AUX" on cardomain. This device plugs in between the CD changer and our head unit and gives us an auxilary RCA input. You can then use a headphone to RCA cable to hook your MP3 up.
To use it, you push the CD button on the deck (with CD cartridge and CD in the changer) and when the MP3 player is powerd on, it overides the sound from the CD changer and plays the MP3 player. Once you turn off the MP3 player, it goes back to playing the CD. The only downside is that the head unit thinks it is playing a CD, so it will continue playing the CD. That means that there will be a short pause when the CD swithces to another disk. No big deal if you just hit the repeat button.
I installed mine yesterday and it worked amazingly well. I now have CD clarity sound from my MP3 player. Much better than any FM transmitter or cassette adapter I have tried.
Finally, I can play my MP3 music with the sound quality they were meant to be heard in!
Hope this may help someone else.
The resale value on these has never been great--I plan to drive mine into the ground.
I bought a dash mountable headphone jack that I installed just above the auxillary power port and hooked it up to the RCA inputs of the device. Now, I just need to connect a headphone to headphone cable between my MP3 player and the headphone jack.
Good luck!
My stereo will not work AT ALL after the battery in my Ax died. I think you just need to pull out a fuse and leave it out for a certain amount of time in order to reset it, but I'm not sure.
Anyone done this or have any information on it? All help is appreciated!
Did you experience any of these symptoms? My next project is to replace all of the oem speakers and install aftermakret amps for a better sound.
Keith
Yours may be defective. Sorry to hear that.
thanks
Can you provide directions for removing the deck, and
Do you have a link for the dash mountable headphone jack
you installed?
Using a small flathead screw driver, press the three clips holding the GPS and clock sensor plate on top of the center stack. The plate will hinge backwards and then out. Disconnect the two sensors by removing the clip. There is a pushable lock on each clip you remove during this process.
Remove three screws hidden by the top plate.
Remove two screws above MID (I think that is where they are).
Open ash tray and remove the tray. There is one screw behind there that you have to remove.
Pull off black pads on both sides of center stack. These are the pads about ankle high. They are held in by clips and easily release when pulling on the pads.
Pull off center stack bezel. You may need to put the gear shift in to L position to remove the bezel. Remove the cigarette lighter wires and ash tray light if needed.
Remove 4 screws holding the deck in. Remove the deck.
It will be obvious which cable you need to remove from the deck. It looks just like the cables on the PIE interface. Remove the cable and hook up the PIE interface. I double stick taped the interface on top of the deck so it wouldn't be rattling around behind the dash.
Reverse the process to reinstall.
I purchased the dash mount headphone jack from circuit city. It was in the automotive section and it is marketed as a boat accessory. It is white, but doesn't bother me as I can hardly see it.
Good luck!
(note: I'm really new to this car, like 2 days)
Thanks,
martin
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6358
martin
martin
Hopefully you will have better luck with the Kuhmo's than I did. Kuhmo did not return my call or reply, but I will say Discount Tire stood by them! The tires do handle extremely well on dry pavement, winter handling horrible after the first year, and the belt seperation was the worst and only I have ever experienced in tires. Good luck with them and keep them rotated!
I'm still trying to find out how to change the display on my head unit that says "Drive Further" when you turn it on. I have seen pictures of it changed but not sure how they did it. Any ideas ?
I do know that you can't change the date or the minutes on the clock--that comes from the satellite. I've seen people on here complain that their clock or calendar gets out of whack and it can't be changed.
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?p=89019&highlight=#89019
I don't know if it will help though. The Axiom is the same vehicle as a Rodeo and similar to a Honda Passport so if you check out this issue on the web I would include searches with those cars as well. Since the light came on it undoubtedly created an error code that can be checked by someone with the right tools. I have read that some auto parts places will help you check these for free. I have no first hand knowledge of this though. If it were me, I would have my mechanic to read the code.
Wish I could be more helpful.
martin
Has anyone heard of this or had it happen on there Axiom.
Any insight would be great.
Thanks
Dennis P.
Isuzu to quit light-vehicle market in U.S (Straightline)
Does anyone else feel this way? Has anyone figured out a solution?
When I got it back (after driving rentals) I definately feel like it's "floating" now in either mode when it rains. I think I have been tramatized because I will have no problem doing 40 on the highway on a light sprinkle. I now feel top heavy, I may need to have the suspension checked just to be safe.
0-200 miles. Tranny light comes on. Tranny is shot. Turns out, I got a vehicle from a dealer who lost his medallion and used the vehicle I bought for a parts car, then sold it off to another dealer. Referb tranny never shifts like I would expect it to, but shrug.
10000-11000 miles. I had a number of spinouts going up hills under power. None of which are due to driving. I raced cars for years, I know tires. God forbid my wife was in this thing when the dangerously inferior GoodYear integrity tires let go on a 20% uphill grade. I replaced with Yokohamas Geolanders. On the vehicle today.
At 30000, front brakes are shot. Fixed that.
At 45k, the gas gauge went nutz. Then the tranny went nutz. Bucking and slamming.
Turns out, the yoke for the 4x4 needs lube regularly. I ask for it at the lube shop but it doesn't seem to happen. The truck has clunked from start/stop since pretty much new
At 50k, I got new front Yokos.
At 67k, something happened with the emission...I didn't have a code reader then but I suspect it was the dumb "small leak detected". they fixed it.
At 84k, the tranny was shot. Replaced that. Had a shot ignitor, whole lot of other stuff. I still haven't done the timing belt.
The new tranny is still fuxxored at 109k. It works most of the time, but will just NOT shift into OD randomly.
All this time, since about 60k, the rear shocks have been essentially shot. Well, they work...to amplify any shock on the road into 3x the amount of vehicle movement. I've considered replacing that..but..if I hit sport mode to close the blow-off valves it shuts that down.
July 2008- 108k miles. It still runs, rides like a piece of crap and never fails to start. This thing will probably go 300k miles...I'm just annoyed that I have to be the one to do it instead of some 17yo
So, I guess I should sum it all up.
If you have one of these and it works for you, great!. I have one, I put a hitch on it, it works. Mine gets 18.4 overall. Not that great, but better than others.
If you're thinking of buying one? Think again unless it's an offer you can't refuse.
It hasn't been a bad vehicle, but in a 5 year do-over...I wouldn't do it again.
But, to be sure what the cause of your problem is, whether it is the Active Ride Suspension or the tires that is causing your problem, there is a test you can try. Disable the Active Ride system under the hood by removing the 30 amp fuse. This fuse is located underneath the hood on the LH side of the engine compartment in a small black plastic fuse box with a snap-on waterproof lid. The fuse is orangish. Removing this fuse will only deactivate the Active Ride system. Your shocks will still work fine, but your ride will be a little bit stiffer than normal, similar to the sport ride. If the problem is the Active Ride system, then a test drive with it disabled will reveal that (heck I drove around for several weeks with my fuse unplugged). If the problem is the ARS, then you need to see my posting about disabling the ARS and replacing the ARS shocks with regular Monroe shocks (or similar brand). In the opinion of most Axiom drivers, the ARS is a piece of crap with a very flawed design. The main problem is the control loop seems to have too much PID gain and the system overreacts to any change in condition, which may be what you are encountering.
If taking out the fuse does not fix the problem, then it may be your tires, or it could be that you have a leaky or bad shock. Check the shocks to see if there is any fluid leaking out of them (they will look greasy vs. dry and dusty). If the shocks look good, it may just be tires with poor traction and the basic top heavy design of the vehicle. Not much you can do about the vehicle design and top heavy nature. All Axioms have that to a certain extent, but you can improve traction by getting the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires - they are outstanding, albeit pricey.
Hope this helps.