I got an 02 Axiom and had similar engine light issues and dealer said it's a wiring harness ($950) and it's a common problem, not sure if that's helpful but, I can say i too have smoked many of these little punks in their hondas and mitsu's and stuff, I love the look of surprise on their faces.
I though some people who may use there MP3 player in their axiom may be interested in this. I have been trying to find the best interface between my MP3 player and stereo for a long time.
I got tired of hearing the tape hiss using a cassette adapter with my MP3 player. So, I tried using an inline FM modulator which sounded horrible. I couldn't believe how badly it sounded. Just poor, poor quality.
I knew from taking out the head unit several times that it is made by Clarion. So, I searched the web and found a product called "PIE CLR-AUX" on cardomain. This device plugs in between the CD changer and our head unit and gives us an auxilary RCA input. You can then use a headphone to RCA cable to hook your MP3 up.
To use it, you push the CD button on the deck (with CD cartridge and CD in the changer) and when the MP3 player is powerd on, it overides the sound from the CD changer and plays the MP3 player. Once you turn off the MP3 player, it goes back to playing the CD. The only downside is that the head unit thinks it is playing a CD, so it will continue playing the CD. That means that there will be a short pause when the CD swithces to another disk. No big deal if you just hit the repeat button.
I installed mine yesterday and it worked amazingly well. I now have CD clarity sound from my MP3 player. Much better than any FM transmitter or cassette adapter I have tried.
Finally, I can play my MP3 music with the sound quality they were meant to be heard in!
Considering trading the '02 in soon, anyone traded in theirs lately? The trade in values I have looked up are not where an MSRP $30k SUV should be.... Curious as to what people have experienced on trade in. Not looking forward to the old haggle game again. Thanks
How hard is this to hook up behind the dash? I'm a little leery of messing something up back there. I'd like to hook this up for my XM Roady unit, which gets much worse signal on its FM modulator in my Axiom than in my Altima.
Its really easy. You don't have to even supply the device with power since it gets it from the CD changer wiring. You simply unplug the CD changer cable that goes into the head unit. Plug the output cable of the device into the head unit. Finally, connect the input cable of the device to the stock CD changer cable. No cutting or splicing of wires since the plugs are the same kind as the stock unit. I did the entire job in about 20 minutes. Let me know if you need directions on removing the deck.
I bought a dash mountable headphone jack that I installed just above the auxillary power port and hooked it up to the RCA inputs of the device. Now, I just need to connect a headphone to headphone cable between my MP3 player and the headphone jack.
Ok, guys. I'm geting a little desperate here. My brother says this can be done at home, but I'm not sure, so I thought I'd ask. I hate paying the dealer...
My stereo will not work AT ALL after the battery in my Ax died. I think you just need to pull out a fuse and leave it out for a certain amount of time in order to reset it, but I'm not sure.
Anyone done this or have any information on it? All help is appreciated!
I just thought I would share my thoughts on the CLR-AUX adapter. I bought one so that I could hookup Sirius. After I installed I started getting a scratching, static sound when I first turned on my radio. I also noticed that my radio would be off when I started my car, even if I left it on when I turned my car off. The sound from the satellite radio was better than using an FM modulator but it was significantly lower in volume. This could have been due to my satellite receiver. Anwyay...I uninstalled the device and the stereo is back to normal operation. I've been trying to find another way to gain the auxillary input but no luck unless I want to replace the whole unit. (Major customizing) Did you experience any of these symptoms? My next project is to replace all of the oem speakers and install aftermakret amps for a better sound.
No, I haven't had those symptoms. No crackling or weird on/off of the stereo. The volume is lower than the cd, but turning up the volume makes up for that. When you installed yours, did you install it at the deck or at the CD changer? It is supposed to be at the deck.
I did install it right behind the deck. I'm going to give it another try since installing is pretty simple. I may contact that vendor to see if they have had any similar problems. thanks
Thanks for the heads up on the PIE CLR-AUX; a couple of questions: Can you provide directions for removing the deck, and Do you have a link for the dash mountable headphone jack you installed?
Using a small flathead screw driver, press the three clips holding the GPS and clock sensor plate on top of the center stack. The plate will hinge backwards and then out. Disconnect the two sensors by removing the clip. There is a pushable lock on each clip you remove during this process.
Remove three screws hidden by the top plate.
Remove two screws above MID (I think that is where they are).
Open ash tray and remove the tray. There is one screw behind there that you have to remove.
Pull off black pads on both sides of center stack. These are the pads about ankle high. They are held in by clips and easily release when pulling on the pads.
Pull off center stack bezel. You may need to put the gear shift in to L position to remove the bezel. Remove the cigarette lighter wires and ash tray light if needed.
Remove 4 screws holding the deck in. Remove the deck.
It will be obvious which cable you need to remove from the deck. It looks just like the cables on the PIE interface. Remove the cable and hook up the PIE interface. I double stick taped the interface on top of the deck so it wouldn't be rattling around behind the dash.
Reverse the process to reinstall.
I purchased the dash mount headphone jack from circuit city. It was in the automotive section and it is marketed as a boat accessory. It is white, but doesn't bother me as I can hardly see it.
I'm reading this and and very interested in trying it. What year AX are you guys dealing with? I have a 2004 and would like to know if these instructions and the CLR-AUX unit would work with that. (note: I'm really new to this car, like 2 days) Thanks, martin
Mine is a 2002. I assume that it would work on an 04. Does yours have the CD changer in the center console? If so, it is most likely the same clarion changer and deck in the 02 and so the CLR-AUX should work.
Thanks. From what I can tell though the 04 unit looks the same as your 02 unit. I read this (below link) on another forum and got a little concerned. It doesn't totally break the system but it didn't work on this guys unit. Thanks though. http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6358
Bought an 03' Ax about a month ago,and recently ran into this forum while surfing the net.I must admit I was a little disappointed reading some of the topics written by owners on major issues concerning the transmission.I've already had to take it to a local dealer to have an oil leak repair.Apparently the seal had to be replaced.Luckily it has 57,000 mi. and I'm covered til 60,000.I'm also starting to experience alot of other issues owners have been complaining about that I didn't notice while test driving it.Things like "the bump you feel after you come to a stop and during exceleration.Anyways, I'm just concerned that I'll be having problems with my Ax in the future.Hopefully its just a handful of owners having these problems, and mine will be dependable for many years to come.
My Axiom has about 30K miles and recently the ABS light came on. I noted on some of the messages that a recall had been issued for the ABS but I don't recall having had any notice from Isuzu. If anyone has info on this, would appreciate the help.
Hey all, forum here is a bit sparse, I sold the Axiom a few weeks ago (to a buddy though), so the silver bullet will still be around. Quite disappointed with trade in value for a 5 year old vehicle with an MSRP of almost $30k. Has been a great vehicle in terms of reliability though. I had written a post a long while back on Kuhmo Escta STX tires, just an update: they failed after 3.5 years. All had belt seperation, Kuhmo would not return phone calls. Needless to say will never purchase the Korean brand again. Cheers to all and hope everyone had a Happy 4th!
Opinions on the possible purchase of an 03 Axiom XS mileage in the low 40k miles asking mid $13K? What is a reasonable price, concerns to look for? Strong points vs weak points of the Axiom XS 4wdr. Appears to be very clean, 2 owners. No longer a local Isuzu dealer in town or in the state. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
My opinion is only going to be of a limited value because I am a fairly new owner of an 04, but the price doesn't seem out of line. Mine had 34k milesa and I got it for a dealer friends special price of $15000.00. I was able to purcaase a 4 year warantee for an additional 2 grand and I did that. So far I love the car. I wish it had a place for a sub woofer but other than that it's great. Drives real nice, gets decent milage and handles great. Actually it looks too good fort me. I am reluctant to take it out in the woods and trash it up like I did with my Cherokee. martin
rpino69, Hopefully you will have better luck with the Kuhmo's than I did. Kuhmo did not return my call or reply, but I will say Discount Tire stood by them! The tires do handle extremely well on dry pavement, winter handling horrible after the first year, and the belt seperation was the worst and only I have ever experienced in tires. Good luck with them and keep them rotated!
So far so good,almost 28,000 on my Ax and converter still holding up. Have had no issues to speak of. I have a neighbor that has a 2000 Rodeo which is basically an Axiom with a diff body. He has been back to the Isuzu dealer 4 times trying to aget a transmission leak fixed. Our local dealer has changed hands 3 times just since I got mine a few years ago from them. Most of the time it's just a big used car lot until they get a shipment of the pickups which seem to sell very well. I wonder if Isuzu goes out of business who will honor our warranties ? I know GM covered Daewoo cars after they closed down but I believe has sold it's stake in Isuzu. Hopefully it won't come to that. I'm still trying to find out how to change the display on my head unit that says "Drive Further" when you turn it on. I have seen pictures of it changed but not sure how they did it. Any ideas ?
The high brake light on my '04 Axiom has gone out. The brake lights in the taillights still work, and the fuse appears to be OK. Any instructions for fixing this thing? It looks like you have to take the inside of the liftgate apart to get to it.
Sorry Steve, not sure how to get to those but if they are like the heads up ones I had on an old Camero, when you replace them, be carefull not to touch the bulb itself. For some reason, I was told the oil on our hands will destroy the bulb. They were very expensive if I remember correctly. Hopefully the Ax has lesser expensive ones. Let me know if you figure it out, I'll make a note of how you did it when comes time to replace mine. I'm still trying to find out how you change the display on the head unit from the silly "drive further" message on start up. Bought one of those adapters the other guy posted about connecting and MP3 player. Let you know how it goes later. Good luck and let me know if you can't figure it out, I'll try to get to mind to see how you do it for the lights, you know, two heads better than one theory. :-)
I don't know about that message. Are you sure it can be changed? If you saw just a photo, it could've been photoshopped that way.
I do know that you can't change the date or the minutes on the clock--that comes from the satellite. I've seen people on here complain that their clock or calendar gets out of whack and it can't be changed.
Has anyone been able to fit 24" rims on the Axiom. I have an 04' and many fitment guides online will only go as high as 20". It seems 24's would fit though when measuring the wheel wells. Any luck anyone?
Does anyone have any knowledge of the Reduced Power warning light on an '02 Axiom, and what it could potentially mean? A few days ago, while sitting in a parking lot with the car idling, the engine stalled suddenly. When I restarted it, the "reduced power" and the check engine lights were on, the engine was idling very low (probably below 500 rpm) and the engine did not rev up when I touched the accelerator. After a few more stalls, the Reduced Power light went away, and the check engine light remained. The engine seemed to be ok. And a little while later, the check engine light went out after a shut off and re-start. I have not seen either light since, and have had no problems. Any advice on this? please.........
Well, the short answer is there is something wrong with your car and that for safety's sake the engine is only going to run at less than full power until the problem goes away. The exact reasons for the warning light are probably listed in the manual (which is not at my disposal right now). I was doing a search on this problem and I found something related here:
I don't know if it will help though. The Axiom is the same vehicle as a Rodeo and similar to a Honda Passport so if you check out this issue on the web I would include searches with those cars as well. Since the light came on it undoubtedly created an error code that can be checked by someone with the right tools. I have read that some auto parts places will help you check these for free. I have no first hand knowledge of this though. If it were me, I would have my mechanic to read the code. Wish I could be more helpful. martin
I have a 2002 Axiom with 32K miles on it and the mechanic let me know the transmission pan is "seeping". The mechanic said it is fine for a while but if I can get it fixed under warrenty then I should. The mechanic said it would be about 220 dollars to fix it if it is not a warrentied item.
Has anyone heard of this or had it happen on there Axiom.
Hi, I have had my Axiom since Nov 03; it's an 03 XS 2wd. I have Kumho Solice tires, but otherwise exactly like from the factory. The thing is...at highway speeds it feels like I could lose control of the vehicle very easily (abrupt manuever, etc). It was this way with th stock tires too. I have tried switching the SPORT mode on and off, no difference. I am guessing it is due to the unconventional steering setup used by Isuzu. Other than this, it has been a great vehicle, and gets a combo of around 17 MPG which isn't toooo bad.
Does anyone else feel this way? Has anyone figured out a solution?
I am also somewhat a new owner of an '04 myself. Mine had 34,000 miles too! Out the door with the 100,000 warranty I paid 16,500. I am in Tampa and I thought I got a great deal. That next week though, the rear main seal went out so I was a little weary of my purchase, but after that fix no other problems. I also felt like I made a huge upgrade from my other vehicle.
My 04 has been really sturdy and always felt safe. I have kept it in Sport mode more often than Comfort mode. But I feel a little out of control when on the highway and one morning with very little rain and great traction on the road, I spun out and smashed into a merging sign and ran into a ditch. The estimate was over 4,000!! When I got it back (after driving rentals) I definately feel like it's "floating" now in either mode when it rains. I think I have been tramatized because I will have no problem doing 40 on the highway on a light sprinkle. I now feel top heavy, I may need to have the suspension checked just to be safe.
I have an 04 and love the ability to change from sport to comfort (even though I don't feel much, the bounce feels the same) But what is this power button you speak of. Where would it be in my vehicle? Maybe they got rid of it for the 04 model.
My 04 Axiom had the abs light come on while I was driving.I wanted to know what this may mean before I take it in. Several months before this light came on, I have sometimes smelled like something was burning or being "rubbed up" on when I would leave my vehicle like the tires. Maybe i'm crazy, but the light isn't something I cannot just leave without inspection. Can anyone help explain any of this?
I've had this thing since June 03. I got it about 10k off sticker. I got the first oil change at 1500 miles. 3k miles every change since.
0-200 miles. Tranny light comes on. Tranny is shot. Turns out, I got a vehicle from a dealer who lost his medallion and used the vehicle I bought for a parts car, then sold it off to another dealer. Referb tranny never shifts like I would expect it to, but shrug.
10000-11000 miles. I had a number of spinouts going up hills under power. None of which are due to driving. I raced cars for years, I know tires. God forbid my wife was in this thing when the dangerously inferior GoodYear integrity tires let go on a 20% uphill grade. I replaced with Yokohamas Geolanders. On the vehicle today.
At 30000, front brakes are shot. Fixed that.
At 45k, the gas gauge went nutz. Then the tranny went nutz. Bucking and slamming.
Turns out, the yoke for the 4x4 needs lube regularly. I ask for it at the lube shop but it doesn't seem to happen. The truck has clunked from start/stop since pretty much new
At 50k, I got new front Yokos.
At 67k, something happened with the emission...I didn't have a code reader then but I suspect it was the dumb "small leak detected". they fixed it.
At 84k, the tranny was shot. Replaced that. Had a shot ignitor, whole lot of other stuff. I still haven't done the timing belt.
The new tranny is still fuxxored at 109k. It works most of the time, but will just NOT shift into OD randomly.
All this time, since about 60k, the rear shocks have been essentially shot. Well, they work...to amplify any shock on the road into 3x the amount of vehicle movement. I've considered replacing that..but..if I hit sport mode to close the blow-off valves it shuts that down.
July 2008- 108k miles. It still runs, rides like a piece of crap and never fails to start. This thing will probably go 300k miles...I'm just annoyed that I have to be the one to do it instead of some 17yo
So, I guess I should sum it all up.
If you have one of these and it works for you, great!. I have one, I put a hitch on it, it works. Mine gets 18.4 overall. Not that great, but better than others.
If you're thinking of buying one? Think again unless it's an offer you can't refuse.
It hasn't been a bad vehicle, but in a 5 year do-over...I wouldn't do it again.
I have a 2002 Isuzu Axiom with 107K miles. Approx 2 mos. ago the Check TOD light started flashing intermittently. This happens infrequenty, but enough to be a concern. The truck has been maintained per manuf recommendation. I think I read somewhere that it could be a sensor wire that could be damaged. The tranny does not appear to be slipping. Any thoughts?
I had to have the clutch solenoid in the TOD unit replaced after about 70K miles. TOD would engage and would work until the entire system warmed up after about 10 miles of driving. Then, it would shut off and the TOD light would blink. Luckily, it was covered under warranty.
Carty1: I can certainly sympathize with the top-heavy sproingy ride issue. Mine has done that for years. Used to be much worse when I had the original Goodyear factory OEM tires on it. Changed to Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires, which handle water on the road much better, which is important in Florida where we get rainstorms that white out the road and can cause you to fishtail. I recommend these tires highly and you can get them at Sams Club or Sears, or any Michelin dealer. Great traction and a lot safer than regular tires.
But, to be sure what the cause of your problem is, whether it is the Active Ride Suspension or the tires that is causing your problem, there is a test you can try. Disable the Active Ride system under the hood by removing the 30 amp fuse. This fuse is located underneath the hood on the LH side of the engine compartment in a small black plastic fuse box with a snap-on waterproof lid. The fuse is orangish. Removing this fuse will only deactivate the Active Ride system. Your shocks will still work fine, but your ride will be a little bit stiffer than normal, similar to the sport ride. If the problem is the Active Ride system, then a test drive with it disabled will reveal that (heck I drove around for several weeks with my fuse unplugged). If the problem is the ARS, then you need to see my posting about disabling the ARS and replacing the ARS shocks with regular Monroe shocks (or similar brand). In the opinion of most Axiom drivers, the ARS is a piece of crap with a very flawed design. The main problem is the control loop seems to have too much PID gain and the system overreacts to any change in condition, which may be what you are encountering.
If taking out the fuse does not fix the problem, then it may be your tires, or it could be that you have a leaky or bad shock. Check the shocks to see if there is any fluid leaking out of them (they will look greasy vs. dry and dusty). If the shocks look good, it may just be tires with poor traction and the basic top heavy design of the vehicle. Not much you can do about the vehicle design and top heavy nature. All Axioms have that to a certain extent, but you can improve traction by getting the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires - they are outstanding, albeit pricey.
Sold my 2002 Axiom to my friend, since he purchased it, it dies out intermittently. Usually when at a stop or in heavy traffic. Any ideas on how to fix?
Comments
I got tired of hearing the tape hiss using a cassette adapter with my MP3 player. So, I tried using an inline FM modulator which sounded horrible. I couldn't believe how badly it sounded. Just poor, poor quality.
I knew from taking out the head unit several times that it is made by Clarion. So, I searched the web and found a product called "PIE CLR-AUX" on cardomain. This device plugs in between the CD changer and our head unit and gives us an auxilary RCA input. You can then use a headphone to RCA cable to hook your MP3 up.
To use it, you push the CD button on the deck (with CD cartridge and CD in the changer) and when the MP3 player is powerd on, it overides the sound from the CD changer and plays the MP3 player. Once you turn off the MP3 player, it goes back to playing the CD. The only downside is that the head unit thinks it is playing a CD, so it will continue playing the CD. That means that there will be a short pause when the CD swithces to another disk. No big deal if you just hit the repeat button.
I installed mine yesterday and it worked amazingly well. I now have CD clarity sound from my MP3 player. Much better than any FM transmitter or cassette adapter I have tried.
Finally, I can play my MP3 music with the sound quality they were meant to be heard in!
Hope this may help someone else.
The resale value on these has never been great--I plan to drive mine into the ground.
I bought a dash mountable headphone jack that I installed just above the auxillary power port and hooked it up to the RCA inputs of the device. Now, I just need to connect a headphone to headphone cable between my MP3 player and the headphone jack.
Good luck!
My stereo will not work AT ALL after the battery in my Ax died. I think you just need to pull out a fuse and leave it out for a certain amount of time in order to reset it, but I'm not sure.
Anyone done this or have any information on it? All help is appreciated!
Did you experience any of these symptoms? My next project is to replace all of the oem speakers and install aftermakret amps for a better sound.
Keith
Yours may be defective. Sorry to hear that.
thanks
Can you provide directions for removing the deck, and
Do you have a link for the dash mountable headphone jack
you installed?
Using a small flathead screw driver, press the three clips holding the GPS and clock sensor plate on top of the center stack. The plate will hinge backwards and then out. Disconnect the two sensors by removing the clip. There is a pushable lock on each clip you remove during this process.
Remove three screws hidden by the top plate.
Remove two screws above MID (I think that is where they are).
Open ash tray and remove the tray. There is one screw behind there that you have to remove.
Pull off black pads on both sides of center stack. These are the pads about ankle high. They are held in by clips and easily release when pulling on the pads.
Pull off center stack bezel. You may need to put the gear shift in to L position to remove the bezel. Remove the cigarette lighter wires and ash tray light if needed.
Remove 4 screws holding the deck in. Remove the deck.
It will be obvious which cable you need to remove from the deck. It looks just like the cables on the PIE interface. Remove the cable and hook up the PIE interface. I double stick taped the interface on top of the deck so it wouldn't be rattling around behind the dash.
Reverse the process to reinstall.
I purchased the dash mount headphone jack from circuit city. It was in the automotive section and it is marketed as a boat accessory. It is white, but doesn't bother me as I can hardly see it.
Good luck!
(note: I'm really new to this car, like 2 days)
Thanks,
martin
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6358
martin
martin
Hopefully you will have better luck with the Kuhmo's than I did. Kuhmo did not return my call or reply, but I will say Discount Tire stood by them! The tires do handle extremely well on dry pavement, winter handling horrible after the first year, and the belt seperation was the worst and only I have ever experienced in tires. Good luck with them and keep them rotated!
I'm still trying to find out how to change the display on my head unit that says "Drive Further" when you turn it on. I have seen pictures of it changed but not sure how they did it. Any ideas ?
I do know that you can't change the date or the minutes on the clock--that comes from the satellite. I've seen people on here complain that their clock or calendar gets out of whack and it can't be changed.
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?p=89019&highlight=#89019
I don't know if it will help though. The Axiom is the same vehicle as a Rodeo and similar to a Honda Passport so if you check out this issue on the web I would include searches with those cars as well. Since the light came on it undoubtedly created an error code that can be checked by someone with the right tools. I have read that some auto parts places will help you check these for free. I have no first hand knowledge of this though. If it were me, I would have my mechanic to read the code.
Wish I could be more helpful.
martin
Has anyone heard of this or had it happen on there Axiom.
Any insight would be great.
Thanks
Dennis P.
Isuzu to quit light-vehicle market in U.S (Straightline)
Does anyone else feel this way? Has anyone figured out a solution?
When I got it back (after driving rentals) I definately feel like it's "floating" now in either mode when it rains. I think I have been tramatized because I will have no problem doing 40 on the highway on a light sprinkle. I now feel top heavy, I may need to have the suspension checked just to be safe.
0-200 miles. Tranny light comes on. Tranny is shot. Turns out, I got a vehicle from a dealer who lost his medallion and used the vehicle I bought for a parts car, then sold it off to another dealer. Referb tranny never shifts like I would expect it to, but shrug.
10000-11000 miles. I had a number of spinouts going up hills under power. None of which are due to driving. I raced cars for years, I know tires. God forbid my wife was in this thing when the dangerously inferior GoodYear integrity tires let go on a 20% uphill grade. I replaced with Yokohamas Geolanders. On the vehicle today.
At 30000, front brakes are shot. Fixed that.
At 45k, the gas gauge went nutz. Then the tranny went nutz. Bucking and slamming.
Turns out, the yoke for the 4x4 needs lube regularly. I ask for it at the lube shop but it doesn't seem to happen. The truck has clunked from start/stop since pretty much new
At 50k, I got new front Yokos.
At 67k, something happened with the emission...I didn't have a code reader then but I suspect it was the dumb "small leak detected". they fixed it.
At 84k, the tranny was shot. Replaced that. Had a shot ignitor, whole lot of other stuff. I still haven't done the timing belt.
The new tranny is still fuxxored at 109k. It works most of the time, but will just NOT shift into OD randomly.
All this time, since about 60k, the rear shocks have been essentially shot. Well, they work...to amplify any shock on the road into 3x the amount of vehicle movement. I've considered replacing that..but..if I hit sport mode to close the blow-off valves it shuts that down.
July 2008- 108k miles. It still runs, rides like a piece of crap and never fails to start. This thing will probably go 300k miles...I'm just annoyed that I have to be the one to do it instead of some 17yo
So, I guess I should sum it all up.
If you have one of these and it works for you, great!. I have one, I put a hitch on it, it works. Mine gets 18.4 overall. Not that great, but better than others.
If you're thinking of buying one? Think again unless it's an offer you can't refuse.
It hasn't been a bad vehicle, but in a 5 year do-over...I wouldn't do it again.
But, to be sure what the cause of your problem is, whether it is the Active Ride Suspension or the tires that is causing your problem, there is a test you can try. Disable the Active Ride system under the hood by removing the 30 amp fuse. This fuse is located underneath the hood on the LH side of the engine compartment in a small black plastic fuse box with a snap-on waterproof lid. The fuse is orangish. Removing this fuse will only deactivate the Active Ride system. Your shocks will still work fine, but your ride will be a little bit stiffer than normal, similar to the sport ride. If the problem is the Active Ride system, then a test drive with it disabled will reveal that (heck I drove around for several weeks with my fuse unplugged). If the problem is the ARS, then you need to see my posting about disabling the ARS and replacing the ARS shocks with regular Monroe shocks (or similar brand). In the opinion of most Axiom drivers, the ARS is a piece of crap with a very flawed design. The main problem is the control loop seems to have too much PID gain and the system overreacts to any change in condition, which may be what you are encountering.
If taking out the fuse does not fix the problem, then it may be your tires, or it could be that you have a leaky or bad shock. Check the shocks to see if there is any fluid leaking out of them (they will look greasy vs. dry and dusty). If the shocks look good, it may just be tires with poor traction and the basic top heavy design of the vehicle. Not much you can do about the vehicle design and top heavy nature. All Axioms have that to a certain extent, but you can improve traction by getting the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires - they are outstanding, albeit pricey.
Hope this helps.