BMW 335i 2007+

mickey25

I purchased a bmw 335i on APRIL 1, 2007. I live in Arizona and , of course, the temperature is running hot,i.e.260 to 280. The dealer Knows of the standard oil cooler on the March 1 production but laughs at any update and bmw of na is not returning telephone calls! I have serious concerns about the longevity of that engine!

kdshapiro

That half-way point is probably around where I reside as well.

acgordon

Hey Donna,

So sorry I dropped the ball on you. This was my first time posting in this forum, and frankly, have been side tracked! You are supposed to get this cable FREE from BMW. I got it right from the parts department. Yes, it's fantastic! Much better than the aux only. You see the playlists, artists, songs, the whole thing! Yes, mine is in the center console too. Hopefully by this time you've already resolved this issue. Sorry again for the delay.

Adam

donnabgood1

Hey Adam,

Thanks so much for your reply. After your post I spoke with BMW and described what you had and they are over nighting it to me today..The parts dept. guy says it has a usb port on one end and then a USB port for the i-Pod and aux cable. Is that the same as what works for you? I am a little unclear though if you don't mind..I have a i-Pod Video 60gig..the parts guy said I hook the usb port with the Aux port on the i-Pod Is that on the top or bottom of the i-pod? is the aux on the I-pod the head phone jack? Looking at the I-pod I would think the usb port is on the bottom, but there is some tiny, and I mean tiny looking usb port on top too..please if you have a moment just describe where I should put the cable. Really, really appreciate your help with this..

and thanks for your time.

Lucky you, are you driving a 335i? What other features did you get in your car -- and which are your favorites? I can tell when it comes to music and cars we think alike.:)

Donna

circlew

KD, nice pix in your carspace!

Regards,
OW

acgordon

Hi again,

You'll totally understand once you get it. The end that connects to the iPod is not a usb, rather it connects to the bottom of the iPod using the same connection as you use to hook it to the computer. The other splits into two - the aux and the usb that both go into the car. Once you have it in hand, it'll become very clear, there's only one way to connect it.

Adam

donnabgood1

Thanks so much Adam for your time answering my questions.. I can hardly wait to get it!

Any recommendations for good driving music?

Donna

circlew

If you like jazz/rock, check out Joe Satriani. One of the best guitarists I've heard. In the Clapton/Hendricks/Duane Allman tier, IMHO. Be careful with "Satch Boogie and "Surfing with the Alien"!

Enjoy your ride. I also enjoy your posts and have learned a lot from you. Drive with passion!

Regards,
OW

acgordon

I like "The Eels". Not for everybody!

Adam

donnabgood1

You guys are pretty good, just as cool with your music selections as you are with your choice of cars..I was listening to Bruce Springsteen on my drive today, and some 70's soul and loving every second of it.. but I am going to definitely go to I-tunes and download the Eels and Joe Santini and think of you guys as I drive the coast of Malibu..and Adam you were right the USB hookup is everything you said it would be..and OW thanks for the nice compliment..I feel the same about your posts.. your enthusiasm really comes through.

Thanks for everything,
Donna

dhanley

Ah, the music. When i was attacking corners in the green mountians, i was playing some serious nitzer ebb. Good stuff.

circlew

Donnabgood1, Satriani. Joe Satriani.

Thanks and Regards,
OW

circlew

Here is some interesting feedback from Automobile. If this is correct, then the 335 is most likely the most powerful in it's class. It's a whole lotta luvin'!

You may remember our previous story about the BMW 335i being run on a dynometer and displaying some impressive figures. In the earlier tests, the 335i made 275hp and 406Nm torque at the wheels. Estimating drive-train loss of roughly 20-25%, this equates at close to 350hp and 480Nm of torque at the flywheel.

Automobile mag went back to the dynometer and tested the 335i again, this time under cooler conditions that would yield better figures. The 335i managed to get 285hp, then 282hp, and finally 287hp, which is even more impressive than the last unit. Finally, they found one case where the 335i peaked at almost 300hp at the wheels, which puts actual output at close to 375hp. It looks like BMW engineers have seriously underrated this engine.

Regards,
OW

habitat1

"Estimating drive-train loss of roughly 20-25%."

That seems like an excessive estimate of drive train loss for a manual transmissioned RWD car.

Last year a friend of mine turned in his leased 2001 911 Turbo. He had a couple of approved modifications - larger turbochargers, revised programming, exhaust system, clutch, etc. Before turning it in, he took it to a nearby track and also had it dyno'd. It showed 520+ hp at the wheels. If you apply the 20-25% loss factor, that would equate to 650-690 hp at the flywheel. He thought 15% loss (610 hp) would be more like it. The car did run a 1/4 mile in 10.55, for what it's worth.

He later took the 2006 911S he purchased to the same shop. It's rated at 355 hp and showed an average of 313 hp at the wheels (12% loss). Interestingly, a previously tested 911 C4S (AWD) showed 300 hp at the wheels (16% loss), which equates roughly to the 4-5% additional drive train loss my dealer estimated on the AWD models. Also, a previous generation M5 (rated at 394 hp) showed 325 hp at the wheels (17% loss).

It does seem that both Porsche and BMW tend to be conservative on their horsepower and performance ratings. But I don't think 20-25% drivetrain loss would be considered normal, unless they are testing a slushbox equiped AWD car. If anyone is more technically knowledgeable about "drive train loss", I'll stand aside.

tayl0rd

Nah. That is an excessive drivetrain loss percentage. The new Mustang GT puts the same numbers to the wheels, and it, too, is rated at 300HP. But we figure it's real rating is somewhere along the lines of 325HP+/- at the flywheel.

circlew

The car did run a 1/4 mile in 10.55, for what it's worth.

That sounds like a 600HP+ car! I'm not sure about the $/HP cost, but that is an outstanding upgrade on a very capable chassis. Did he think about keeping it at any point? The thing is, if he already invested, what was his motivation to turn it back in? I assume future cost-to-repair or the urge of a new model.

BTW, I'll wager it costs a lot more for many capable stock cars to get the E.T. in the mid-10's. That is Super Stock/Super Comp times according to the N.H.R.A....and those cars can only do real good going straight! (and cost big $ to boot).

You know what you can do with a 911 at the end of a long straightaway!

Regards,

habitat1

"Did he think about keeping it at any point?"

In 5 years, he only put 11,000 miles on the car. It might have had bragging rights at the track, but it was definitely not a friendly daily driver. He let me drive it once and I don't think I stalled out as much with my very first manual transmission 30+ years ago. The clutch was a bear. And once you did get it going, hitting a pebble on the road would rattle your fillings. He decided to let it go and get a new 911S Coupe. Not nearly as intense, but he drives it everywhere.

I will double check that 1/4 mile time, but I am pretty sure it's correct. In addition to 520 hp at the wheels, it was estimated to have 520+ ft. lbs of torque at the wheels. That's considerably more than the Carerra GT and, with the Turbo's AWD, all of that power went into forward motion. I did let him give me a taste of it on an empty road. I can honestly say that I've never experienced anything like it. My eyeballs felt like they were being pushed back in my head and I must have looked like I was going to black out, because he looked over at my white face after the short blast of a run and apologized. My own 911S (which according to road tests is capable of 3.9 to 4.2 seconds 0-60) felt absolutely anemic for the next week or two.

At some point however, you have to wonder where the performance - and specifically horsepower/acceleration - will end. Another friend of mine called me a couple of weeks ago from Chicago to gush over his new Mercedes E63. Claims with 500+ horsepower that it's faster (in a straight line) than my 911S. He's probably right. But he was calling me from a cell phone going 30 mph in bumper to bumper traffic. When I called him back a couple days ago, I asked him how his new car was. "Not so good - I only got 11 mpg on my first two tanks of gas" (he has a 50 mile roundtrip commute). I resisted the urge to remind him that the E350 Bluetec cost $30k less, gets 30+ mpg and can still significantlty outaccelerate my old 1984 Toyota Supra (the car he always envied).

circlew

At some point however, you have to wonder where the performance - and specifically horsepower/acceleration - will end.

I appreciate your feedback on the HP issue. For the 335 six, 300+ HP is quite good and darn close to the previous M version. Now the M will get the V8 so no end in sight there.

I assume it will be similar in cycle at the end of the 60's when environmental and energy conservation ended the then famous HP wars. I had a '77 Pontiac GP with a 400 C.I. V-8 with only 180HP that would have had at least 350 HP in 1969.

As gas creeps ever so humbly to the $4/gal. mark and beyond, the E63 your friend has will cost over $70 to fill up every 200 or so miles. It's nice to have the power but I'd call it an imbalance and so goes the energy use and the costs follow. A wolf in sheep's clothing is still a wolf. Sedans with 500+ HP will become very rare relative to the cost of energy. "Yous gets what yous pay for!"

Regards,
OW

shipo

"I assume it will be similar in cycle at the end of the 60's when environmental and energy conservation ended the then famous HP wars. I had a '77 Pontiac GP with a 400 C.I. V-8 with only 180HP that would have had at least 350 HP in 1969."

While it is true that the smogging of our cars in the mid 1970s did emasculate them from a performance perspective, what is often missed it these types of discussions is that the horsepower wasn't created equally. IIRC, horsepower numbers from the 1960s were calculated with the bare engine sitting on a stand and hooked to a dynamometer, no exhaust, no alternator, no coolant and fuel pumps, and sure as hell no A/C need apply for that job. By something like 1973, the automakers were coerced to provide real world(ish) HP numbers by testing the complete engine as it was installed in the vehicle, complete with exhaust system.

So, saying that the 400 in you 1977 Grand Prix only had 180 HP while that same engine in the 1960s had more like 350 is missing the mark a bit. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

circlew

So, saying that the 400 in you 1977 Grand Prix only had 180 HP while that same engine in the 1960s had more like 350 is missing the mark a bit.

Put another way, a 1970 GP with the same C.I. engine put much more power to the road than the 1977 version (sometime between then and now HP was changed from being measured in Gross terms to Net HP today). In fact, everything by 1973 was pretty much deneutered in the power department, IMO. Not until the mid-90's did the U.S. mfg's figure out a better balance in HP/torque. Then again, weight problem in most U.S. cars went under the same knife, and a lot of design muscle went down the drain, IMO. The rest of the world was insanely more successful in the total package during the last 30 years!

I agree 300 horsepower today is not = to 300 HP in the '60's

Regards,
OW

shipo

Hehe, just messing with ya here... ;-)

"Not until the mid-90's did the U.S. mfg's figure out a better balance in HP/torque."

Hmmm, the 2.2 liter engine in my 1985 Dodge Daytona had 150 HP and 168 lb-ft of torque. That same engine in my 1989 Chrysler LeBaron GTC had 174 HP and 200 lb-ft of torque. Both were strong and reliable engines, each delivering 100,000 miles before I traded them in.

Best Regards,
Shipo

white6

My 335i coupe has the oil cooler. Easy to see in the right front wheelwell. It hasn't really warmed up here yet, but with ambient temps at about 80, the oil temp runs a steady 240 degrees; just left of center. I assume that's why they bumped it to 340 max, so that normal operating temps would read left of center (psychological thing).

circlew

I just did some quick research and I believe the 335 I-6 is running around 310 - 325 horse power at the flywheel. That would be a gross rating. That would allow 1/4 mile E.T.'s in the low to mid 13 second range. Based on my calculations, I reviewed some time trials and the results ring true.

The past/current generation M3 (stock) are running low to mid 13 second E.T.'s also.

Case closed. Go figure!

Regards,
OW

jenno2

I have read many different reviews of both cars, and I am torn between the two. I realize if money is no object, the 335i is the hands down winner. But if you are on a budget, does the price premium justify the choice of the 335i? I had this same dilemma four years ago when I was deciding between the 325 and and 330i sedan. I chose the 330i, and I have never looked back. Any insight from those who have driven both would be appreciated.

kdshapiro

"I chose the 330i, and I have never looked back."

Same applies to the 335i.

roadburner

I've driven the convertible variants back-to-back and I would say that the 328i works better with the MT, while the 335i is great with either the MT or the slushbox.

bruceedmonds

2007 BMW 335i. (3) months old. All (4) wheel hubs covered with rust. Dealer claims this is normal. I find it difficult to accept this unsightly condition is normal. Have any others experienced this condition? Others I have looked at appear to have a dull silver paint or plating on them.

kyfdx

Wheel hubs? Or, brake rotors?

lovemyclk

BMW uses a brake pad compound that does emit dust as used. Thes pads provide the stopping power BMW desires, so there is a mild trade-off. I simply keep Meguiar's wheel cleaner handy and wash my wheels in the early evening without getting the car wet. I use my yard/leaf blower to eliminate standing water on the wheels/tires - takes 10 minutes and good as new!

There are after market brake pad suppliers that reduce brake dust you can investigate after your warranty expires...

roadburner

Have any others experienced this condition?

I assume that you are referring to the brake rotors, as the hubs are not visible once the rotors and wheels are fitted. As for the rust, ome BMW rotors do, some don't. If it really bothers you, simply pull the wheels, mask off the rotor discs and give the center hat a shot of high temperature engine or caliper paint. Or do what I do: drive the car the way Munich intended- any rusty area will soon be coated with black brake dust...

bruceedmonds

Not the area the brake pads ride on (rotors)It is the area to the center of that (hub) The area the wheels bolt to. It is like a hat and is visible thru the wheels. Minimal rust would be understandable. This however is significant and blotchy. It just looks bad and does not seem like it should be that way. It is not brake pad dust. I understand what that is. This to me looks like a mistake. I could pull the wheels and paint them but that does not seem like something I should need to do to a $42,000 entry level luxury ultimate driving machine.

tcn2k

Can you show us a pic?

bruceedmonds

http://www.mypicshare.com/ablotyenpic.html Photo rusty hub.

bruceedmonds

http://www.mypicshare.com/byphgotbpic.html Another Rusty Hub photo from (3) month old 2007 BMW 335i.

shipo

Personally I'm not understanding what all the fuss is about. Most brake rotors are made of ferrous metals, and by definition ferrous metals rust. If you want to go out and buy a $5,000 exotic big brake kit with two piece rotors and forged hats, then most likely there will be no rust. For the rest of us, the rusted hat will do just fine. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

cdnpinhead

are made of cast iron for a number of reasons, the most significant of which probably have to do with the fact that the properties don't change a lot when the part is heated & cooled in the temperature ranges seen for brake parts, even for high-performance cars. It's actually called ductile iron, but. . .

Cast iron rusts.

The sun comes up in the East.

Go figure.

tcn2k

I totally agree, why would someone take off their brakes and get worried about the hubs being rusted? Parionoid...

circlew

Besides, The rust holds the wheels on so tight you don't even need lugs!

Regards,
OW

kyfdx

I didn't think the hubs were visible with the wheels on, either..

But, I went out and looked at our E46, and sure enough, you can see the hub.. And, while I know that where the mounting plate of the wheel meets the hub is extremely rusty (which you can see with the wheel off), the visible part of our hubs aren't. Just a dull dark gray..

I'm used to seeing rusty brake rotors from overnight condensation, etc... But, I'm not sure I would like seeing those rusty hubs on my new $50K BMW, either..

Just seems weird, as I've never noticed it on other BMWs, and most of them have pretty open wheel designs.

Maybe there is some kind of electrostatic paint that you could apply, since the area doesn't have any contact with moving parts? Similar to how they paint brake calipers?

regards,
kyfdx
(not the host here)

roadburner

Maybe there is some kind of electrostatic paint that you could apply, since the area doesn't have any contact with moving parts? Similar to how they paint brake calipers?

I suggested that, but the OP wasn't interested. That said, I put new BMW rotors on my 3er several months ago, and the OEM gray paint on the hubs still looks good.

circlew

My '06 330 has no visible rust on the rotors or the wheel hub but it is ALWAYS garaged. I wonder if the problem is more apparent to condensation overnight as you suggest.

Regards,
OW

tcn2k

I take what I said back, the rust on the rotor hub is pretty bad. I also have a 2007 335i and mine looks fine. But then again, mine is garaged as well and have not been through a winter salts yet. Is yours garaged? Do you have a lot of salt during the winter months where you live?

I would throw a fit with bmw na and service manager to see what they can do. For a car that is price this high and have visible rust is no excuse. I own x5 and previous 325 and never seen this problem on the rotor hubs before.

bcdhedstrom

Do you need iDrive to have full control over the iPod via the USB connection? I've seen the video of controlling an iPod with iDrive but am considering a 328i w/o iDrive but I really want good iPod integration. Can I control the iPod with the stereo head unit interface?

pyotseff

Found this forum after searching for info on the rusty drums. Any update on your situation? Any response from the service dept? Mine are pretty bad, all 4 drums have rusted and has gone through to the lug nuts on the outside. Has attracted attention and comments. It is Ugly and appears faulty...ferrous or not. I have a 2 yr old X5, have not noticed on other BMW's in our area...South Florida (yes higher humidity, but no salt). Taking it in for service next week and will complain, but prelim response over the phone from service rep was that..."this can be normal". :mad: Disappointing that a $50K vehicle can be causing questions from strangers about safety issues. Any suggestions about what to ask of the service manager...replacement, cleaning, paint...? Thanks!

tcn2k

All I can say is throw a big fit. That rust is horrible! BMW NA will do jacksh&t about it. I am done dealing with BMW NA on the oil cooler issue and have a service appointment myself to bring my 335i car in next week to a local dealership. I am going to raise hell there since my car oil temp on a 90 degrees day is running at 280-290 F.

pyotseff

Missed the discussion on the oiler cooler. Sounds like you got bigger fish to fry than the rust. Good luck! Keep us up to date on what happens next week...selfishly...especially on the brakes. Haven't even tried with BMW NA, thought I would if I got no satisfaction from the local dealer. Doesn't look promising.

donnabgood1

Get the USB option it is money well spent. I am doubtful (though do not know for sure) if you have the exact same control f the Ipod without I-Drive ((I have i-drive and the usb option). You only need I-drive to scroll through the playlist and songs, like the wheel of your i-pod, and of course it easier to read the display of song and artist on the lcd screen) but what the USB option does is make your steering wheel controls useable (not just for volume but for next song too)and charge the ipod while in use. I have over 7 thousand songs on my i-pod and I just hit shuffle songs on the player and drive wherever the music takes me..and if music is really important to you get the H/K Logic 7. It is the best factory stereo I have ever had personally..I also may be one of the few but I love i-drive too, but know for a lot of you purists out there it is a little to gadget y..

erickpl

I love the iDrive as well. Compared to Audi's MMi, which has more external buttons + the control knob, I find it easy to use. Voice activation is a plus for it as well.

-Paul

bruceedmonds

I live in Michigan. Purchased the 2007 335i end of Feb 2007. It is kept in a garage when not in use. It has 3,400 miles on it. The dealer told me the rust condition was normal on the 3 series. I have been taking notice of other 335i hubs. Some are just as bad looking as mine and some are fine. The dealer asked what kind of wheel cleaner I am using (I am using none). The car is at the BMW dealer now. In the (3) months we have had it the push button ignition start has started to take 5 to 10 seconds of turning over to start the car. It does not fire up as quickly as it did when we got it and seems to be getting progressively worse. BMW dealer says they have a service bulletin on that and are repairing it. On the rusty hubs that are visible through the open wheels which is normal for BMW's (I guess not for Audi's, Accura,s,Hundi's etc.)the dealer has offered to pull the wheels, clean the rust off the hubs, and paint with a silver brake paint. If this solution keeps the excessivly rusty hubs from being visiable I am satisfied. Do not get me wrong. I love the car. It is a joy to drive. I am just suprised BMW would knowingly put out a product that looked the way these came to look in less than (3) months and 3,000 miles.

pyotseff

It is not just the rusty drums that are visible through the open wheels, it is also the lug nuts that have rusted, making it much more obvious. Did they rust through on your 335i? I am hoping that my local dealer will offer me the same option. I also enjoy driving my car, but come on..... :confuse: