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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems



  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    had the same problem once with a 350 (similar engine). we finally had to pull distributor and replace pick-up coil.
  • **Update** I haven't totally fixed problem yet but I started checking for wiring problems. Found that both battery cables were severly corroded inside their plastic housings. So I've replaced the cables and the motor is now running much stronger but still has the misfire. Now a new code has come up, crank sensor intermittant.
  • I had the exact same problem with my 91 sonoma, 4cyl - 2.5. I had just tuned it and everything.

    It ended up being a distributor problem - which became a bigger problem with the limited production run of these engines.

    I ended up installing a Multiple Spark Discharge - distributorless spark delivery system.

    Now the truck runs like a dream...a little 4 banger pounding along like a v6 - I recommend the MSD for ANYONE with spark issues in the the older s series trucks.
  • *** Final update *** The problem is now solved. It appears that the crank positon sensor that was replaced directly after problem arose was either the wrong one or was bad. Replaced sensor with new one and truck runs perfectly. This was rather annoying as the no codes alluding to this were seen until EVERY sensor on top of engine was replaced.
  • I have a 1997 Sonoma with 4.3 V-6. I'm getting the SES light and Autozone says there are 2 codes and both say that #3 clyinder is misfiring. My truck worked fine until it sat in my garage for almost a week when it was in the 20's and 30's out every day. I then went to leave for work an now it idles rough, sounds like a hole in my muffler an the SES light is always on. I have replaced the plugs and wires and rest the computer buy still giving same SES codes. One thing I noticed when changing the #3 plu was there was a little oil on it. Has anyone else had this problem? I have read somepeople have had similar problems but not this issue. Can anyone please help? I love my truck and don't want to have major engine problems.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    What are the codes??
  • I think they are 302? I'm not 100% though.
  • chukchuk Posts: 10
    I am trying to replace the heater core in my 2000 S-Blazer. I got the dash out and the heater/ventilation unit loose except for what appear to be 2 bolts coming through from the engine side of the firewall at the bottom. I am working from a Haynes manual, but there is no mention of these bolts. If I am right, the only recourse is to depressurize the A/C system & remove the evaporator to get to these 2 bolts. Seems ridiculous to have to do this to replace a heater core.

    Looking for any help or advice that might be out there.

  • elfeoelfeo Posts: 1
    Dear thebigal,
    Sounds like you might have a 99 cent problem. Remove your distributor cap and peek behind at the base of the distributor to see if oil is seeping from there. You might have to use a small mirror and flashlight to look back there. If so remove your distributor (make sure and turn crank to TDC and mark direction of rotor before removing) and replace the rubber O-ring on the distributor housing. This O-ring will cost about 99 cents at your local auto parts shop. Bring the distributor with you to the parts shop so they can match up the right O-ring. They usually carry an assortment of different sizes. I had a similar problem recently on my '93 Sonoma (2.8 V6) and was relieved to find out it wasn't the rear main seal. Hope this helps you out.
  • I have a 1996 Chevy s10 and the number 3 cylinder misfires constantly. I have had to replace the spark plug 3 times because it is causing the porcelain part of the spark plug to crack. Any ideas why this is happening? I have replace plug wire, and spark plugs.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    This is the first time I ever heard of a cylinder misfiring caused the porcelain to go bad. That's a new one for me. One time I got a plug that had faulty porcelain. Also on occasion I have cracked the porcelain installing the plug. Is it possible that the socket isn't properly aligned when tightening and causing the plug to crack? I know some of the plugs on my S-10 are a bare to get to, especially on the driver’s side. What I do now when its time to change out the plugs is remove the front wheels and go in above the A-frame with long extensions on 3/8 in drive. As for the miss on #3 cyl., have you ran a compression check?
    Good luck :)
  • The compression has been checked and everything appears to be fine. It's weird because I will be driving down the road, then the service engine light comes on and then there is a big pop sound and that's when I know the porcelain on the spark plug has cracked. I just keep an extra spark plug handy.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    When you say "the porcelain is cracked" are you talking about the top part of the plug or the part that is actually inside the cylinder??
  • It has cracked once where the porcelain goes into the plug and then again about mid-way down the porcelain.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    As hoodlatch said, some plugs can be a bear to get to....are you sure you aren't cracking them when you install them?

    I'm still not sure from your answer whether the plug is cracking inside the cylinder or outside. I'm not aware of anything that can be wrong with the engine that would cause the plug to crack on the outside of the cylinder. Inside is a different story...detonation, backfiring etc......several things can crack a plug internally.
  • I have a 2001 Chevy S10, automatic with a 2.2 engine code 5.

    It was running great when one very cold morning on the way to work it died and blew oil out of the dip stick and all over the motor.

    When I restarted the truck, it was very hard to get started. It was missing terribly and the crank case pressure was so high that it blows the dip stick out. A pressure test was good except one cylinder was getting so much fuel that it was making my compression gage shoot up to 300 psi.

    I was told o change the fuel regulator, which is in the fuel filter. I should mention that this truck has California Emmissions. After that the truck still ran like one cylinder was missing. I cahnged the plugs, coils, ignition module and catalytic converter with no success.

    If the truck is setting idling in park and you rev it up, it begins cutting out and will begin to puffing smoke out of the dip stick. At one point it was so bad that it blew the dipstick out so hard that it knocked a chunk out of my wall.

    Does anyone have any ideas? I am stumped, frustrated and about broke! The truck ran beautiful until that morning. I did have one code present P0410 "secondary air injection malfunction" after I replaced the fuel regulator this code went away and I have no codes present.

    I did read that you can get this code if you are getting excessive fuel.

    I need help!!!!!!!
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    It sounds like your getting compression in the crank case. If that's the case my guess would be something like a hole in a piston or broken rings or both. Is it possible you dropped a valve and knocked a hole in the top of a piston?
  • Thanks for the response. Last night I removed the valve cover and the rocker arms and then using compressed air, I pressurized each cylinder, every one had some sort of leak into the crankcase, #1 and #4 were really bad. #4 dumped the air right back out of the dip stick. I believe your right, the rings are probably shot. It was running great until that one minute.

    I am in the process of taking the head off. I'll let you know what I find.
  • Engine skipping is about the best way for me to describe this problem. It is on my 03 s-10. It only happens when I am at low RPMs and I'm putting my truck in a little bit of a strain. I've replaced the plugs/wires, catalytic converter (took it out), and fuel filter. I have tried these things and nothing has cured it.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I don't know if the 03's still had distributors or not but a bad cap can cause that. A weak coil or dirty fuel injector can also cause the same symptoms you described. I have a 93 with the 4.3L and every so often I have to pull the cap and rotor and scrape the corrosion with a pocket knife. :)
  • Hi all,
    I have a 98 S-10 2.2L with 199K+, and I've had the dreaded oil-drip for quite some time. I know that it's getting worse and it looks to be the rear main. (Dramatic pause)
    I've packed my lunch and told everyone not to bother me for the weekend. It appears to be major surgery here. I was hoping that someone had some tips and tricks on making the process a little smoother.

    Thanks for the help.

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Recommend before you start to hose down the exhaust pipe bolts and nuts with PB Blaster. It might keep you from twisting them off, (Ouch). :)
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Rent a transmission jack.
  • Thanks for the advice.

  • fudogfudog Posts: 3
    2002 GMC Sonoma 82,000 miles 2.2 Engine
    Distributorless ignition. Developed a clattering in the engine that sounds like it is coming from the valve train area. This has been going on for months and it is getting louder, now there is a vibration accompanying the noise. The engine has excellent oil pressure, runs cool and has new plugs and wires. While at idle the noise is minimal but increases when RPM is at 2000 and above. Has anyone had this similar problem? I have tried using high test gasoline, injector cleaner besides the new plugs and wires. Any advise would be appreciated.
  • These 2.2L were real bad about breaking the timing chain tensioner. Probably need a chain and gear set. Tensioner should come with it.

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