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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems



  • fudogfudog Posts: 3
    One mechanic said that could be the problem and one mechanic told told me that is not the problem. The sound does not sound like it is coming from that area though. I will consider it, thanks.
  • I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma. It started up normally this morning but about 20 minutes into my drive to work, the engine started "sputtering" when I gave it gas and truck started shaking and the Check Engine Light started to flash. Problem?
  • john180john180 Posts: 2
    If it was a damp or rainy day I'd check your plug wires.They are in behind the wheels and get wet very easily.If this is the case spray the plug wires and caps with some sort of silicone based spray.
  • halfstickhalfstick Posts: 4
    With warmer weather the front of the engine has begun to whine pretty loud. Removed the fan
    belt, no change. The whine varies opposite load (ie quieter with acceleration). We had a
    warm day during a cold week and the noise started for the first time. It went away again
    with the cold. Sounds like one of those toy cars where you rip the cord to start a wheel
    spinning then launch the car on the ground. Any thoughts on the source of this? I love this truck.
  • jayme4jayme4 Posts: 2
    Hello, I just had the EGR vavle replaced and now when I accelerate, it ticks - a clicky ticking (not the ticking the lifters make) and when you accelerate harder or need power to go uphill you can hear suction sounds. This tick actually sounds like its coming right out of the vents, so it seems to me it's coming from the valve or nearby. The more I accelerate, the louder/faster the tick. When the suction sound starts, I back off becuase I don't know what will happen and I don't want to make matters worse. If I'm idling or coasting, no strange sounds - it never did anything like this until I picked it up from having the EGR valve put in. And the hose that holds the PCV valve was replaced too. It was recently 'plugged in' and it's diagnosis was the egr valve, no other problems. Please help :) I really need my truck and am looking to have to take it to a shop now and don't want to get repairs I don't need. A friend put the valve in - could something be hooked up wrong? The engine is a Chevy S10 6 cyl. 4.3 automatic. Thank you very much
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Maybe it was a faulty EGR valve right out of the box. Rent or borrow a vacuume hand pump to trouble shoot the diaphragm on the EGR valve, and the vacuume lines also. I assume you used a new gasket on it when you replaced the old EGR valve. Let us know what you find out. Good luck :)
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Is there any way someone could have ran over something and it got caught up and wrapped around something? Maybe some plastic or some kind of wire? Good luck :)
  • Actually my truck is doing this to. When i first start my engine, when it is cold, and rev my engine a few times it will whine, but only for a few revs and it will rev itself out. I dont think it is the belts. I have replaced my belts recently. It may just be the weather because it has never done this to me before. My buddy has a late eighties Cadillac and his did it all the time, and when he got a new radiator it fixed the squeal. So any help getting this solved before it turns into an actual problem will help.
  • halfstickhalfstick Posts: 4
    I'll check out the debris issue around the crank pulley. The more i think about this the more I'm thinking timing chain gears or tensioner. The noise is also similar to a dentist drill. A little heavier. Thanks for your input.
  • halfstickhalfstick Posts: 4
    I removed my belt prior to starting diconnecting all other spinning stuff and pulleys. For me the sound doesn't go away, it just fades with load. With the belt off you can check bearings on all those pulleys.
  • I very much doubt that it is debris if it is doing the same thing as mine. Mine just sounds like the belts rubbing on something, but i know that they are not.
  • So Im driving around town about three months ago. Keeping in mind that i was looking for a truck to dink around in and play with. I drive by this '85 S15 4X4 with the 2.8 and i picked it up for a cool 300 from an older gentleman that had bought it new, never drove it in the winter, it has only surface rust. 137k, brand new Hankook tires, 2 year old radiator, 4 year old alternator, new battery, new bed liner and a full tank of gas ;).

    What I did to it:

    Right away i had to fix a bad oil leak, changed the plugs and had to replace the water pump, it was backfiring out of the carb-fixed that, the linkage was all messed up so you had to jam it into park-fixed that, the previous owner had a lifetime warranty on a muffler from 91, so i had him sign that over to me, so that was free to replace. All in all i dropped about $300 into it.

    My questions are:

    I have quite a rough idle, im going to replace the distributor cap and plug wires here shortly, any other suggestions to help smooth that out?

    My drivers side door window keeps braking the clip that holds it from falling forward, i've changed it numerous times, it will work for about a week, then it will just break again... and its pissing me off, what can I do?

    Basically the only spot that is rusted through is a corner of the drivers floor panel, exsposing the carpet ans such. What can I do to patch that up?

    As it is about to shift into third gear, it will make a odd sort of over revving noise, but it appears to only do it when it is about to shift into third, any ideas?
  • sknnytnysknnytny Posts: 3
    i have a S10 blazer having a problem keeping it running right i've changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor and ive changed the fuel pump and sending unit but it still hezertates and dies
  • sknnytnysknnytny Posts: 3
    hi my name is tony and i have a 93 that is doing the same thing i was woundering if u found the problem please call (617)281-5590
  • sknnytnysknnytny Posts: 3
    i have a 93 blazer with a 4.3 vortec and im having a problem keeping it running and when i get it running it bogs like it aint getting enough gas ive already changed the pugs, wires, cap, rotor, throto sensor,ditributor modual,and the gas pump and sending unit can any1 help
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Checked for plugged cat converter.Unbolt the pipe before the cat and then see how it runs.
  • I saw on here a message about an s10 that was sputtering and making noise at idle. I'm having a similar problem and have already put a lot of money in trying to figure it out.

    Only when at speed and trying to maintain, my engine stutters. A computer check says that #2 and #3 are misfiring. I've recently had a new fuel pump installed, new plugs and wires, a new #2/#3 ignition coil and had the injectors all professionally cleaned (not just fuel additives). My regular mechanic is stumped and I can't afford to give my truck over to a dealership for several days of diagnosing right now.

    The stuttering does not occur at idle, acceleration or deceleration. It even stutters while on cruise, but not nearly as much. It seems that the instant you release pressure on the gas peddle (while maintaining speed, or during shifting) is when it seems to occur.

    Any one have some ideas?

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sounds like a nice fix it-upper. About the transmission, it might be worth while to check out the vacuume modulator. Sometimes they wear out or the vacuume line gets old and leaks. Its not that difficult to change out even if it is bad. Good luck Brah. :)
  • First off, my blinkers have quit working on my 85 gmc s15 w/ the 2.8 v6. They have acted up for a while, like they would work when they wanted to, but now they dont work at all. The fuse is not blown, and the bulbs are new.

    Second, if i "pump" my gas at all while driving at slow speeds in reverse it will act like it wants to stall out, and sometimes it will. Could this be a fuel filter issue? because that brings me to my next question, how do I change that?

    My truck seems to be running very hot, coolant levels are good, oil levels are good, and my radiator is only like 2 years old. Even my hood will be to hot to touch sometimes.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    You might want to have a look at our general Maintenance & Repair board, since you've got a work in progress!


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  • dws1dws1 Posts: 1
    My isuzu d-max pick-up is too bouncy for the passenger sitting on the back seat even when im driving on a paved road. Has anybody changed leaf spring of shocks on your d-max? Can you tell me what brand and model?
  • czbillczbill Posts: 2
    I have a '92 S-10 Sonoma with 51,000 original miles. It is a 4.3 V-6, 5 speed standard transmission, extended cab. Has A/C, PB & PS and not miuch else. Every 4-6 month the truck starts running a little rough, even with the A/C off. After about a week or so of this, it won't start, cranks fine but no spark and no TBI fuel being injected. On rare occasions, such as yesterday, I can let the truck sit for a couple of hours, and after moving and fiddlng with the two module connections, the truck will start. It made it home, stalling twice but restarting. Today it won't start for anything no matter what is done to the connectors.

    Every time this happens, I install a new ignition module and everything is fine for another few months. This is a problem of the last two years or so, before it was perfect. I have replaced 4 modules in the last 18 months.

    The plugs are relatively new, the wires the same. Have run the truck at night with the hood up, don't see any sparks or lights. The ignition module connectors have been cleaned and lubricated, they are tight when installed. The proper grease is used under the module, it is tightened evenly and snugly, but not overtightened.

    Does anyone have a similar experience or see something I am missing?

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