Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Noise and Vibration

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Comments

  • I have a 2002 Sierra K1500 4x4. High mileage, but very clean and well taken care of.

    I just recently noticed a low speed (30 or less mph) noise when coasting or braking to a stop.

    The noise is coming from the right rear (Had a brave passenger lean out and listen).

    I replaced the brakes and rotors nearly 1 year ago. I also completely removed the parking brake shoes and adjusters from both sides to see if that was the source of the noise. Since that didn't do it, I took both rear rotors off and inspected the backing plates to make sure they were not making contact with the rotor. Then I swapped the rear rotors and the noise was still on the right side.

    I put the vehicle on a 2 post lift, placed it in gear, and with a rag in hand, applied drag to the right rear by pressing on the inside sidewall. I was able to recreate the noise. So, I replaced the right rear wheel bearing and seal. I noticed the C-Clip was wearing more toward the outer diameter on the side that faced the side gear, so I put it back in facing the other way to start fresh and reduce lateral movement of the axle.

    The noise is still there and I am getting desperate.

    Has anybody else had experience with this elusive noise?

    Thanks in advance.
  • I checked the westin website they reccomend 74 foot lbs torque for the tubes not sure if the installer did this, seems to me they just used a impact wrench, never did see them torque anything, BTW my wife needs those steps too.......
  • Look at your exhaust manifold bolts and make sure they're not broke. I have a 2000 chevy that sounds like i lifter noise but its actually the rear manifold bolt is broke.
  • Try talking to the dealer about the GM mobility program, if you or any of your family members have a problem getting in or out of the truck, and you can get a doctor's slip stating this , they will pay up to $1000.00 to install steps or a lift. I had running boards installed on my silverado when I bought it, and GM paid for everything. I am looking for a new truck now, and I asked the dealer if they still have the program,and he said they did. my wife has implants in both knees,and she has trouble lifting her leg high enough to get in I hope this helps. maybe they can install anew set of bars.
  • i recently purchsed a brand new body style silverado 4/28/07. i then waited about 2 months and noticed that when ever I hit a bump going like 5-15 miles per hour there is a VERY noticeable clunking noise coming from the rear end... didnt think much of it till it started getting worse... i now have a 6" lift and 35s on the truck, the clunking is the same it was after 3 months... im gonna be taking my truck into the dealer on monday for my hindges that are rough when closing the driver door, and the same as some other people the side steps. i ordered OEM running boards and put them on and now theres a creaking noise coming from the door... only when the doors are closed though... im not happy with the vehicle that i decided to purchase... im a big chevrolet fan but the last thing i need is for GM to tell me to wait and then have my whole rear end fall out going down route 28, or to have my driver door to fall of, or even have my running boards snap on me... as far as the rear end goes i thought it was a chevrolet thing.. then i see al these other posts about it and how they had to pay $400 to get it fixed... my truck only has 6,500 miles on her. i dont feel i should have to pay anything... :mad:
  • Hey, After looking at westins website, I found that there is a one eight inch minimum clearance on the front body pocket mounts for the steps bracket, sure enough the installer did not follow this in the instructions for installing the tubes, I crawled under the truck the other day and loosend the steps and adjusted to specs, Then torqued to 74 foot pounds, and Voila no more creeks or noise.........Why did i pay someone to install these..........Damn
  • I have a 05 silverado 4X4 5.3 it has a vibration at 45mph-55mph after it shifts in over drive,if i give gas it stops vibrating if i let off the gas it stops vibrating. This happens around 1400 rpms
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    I have an '07 Classic Ext. Cab 2WD 6cyl with 6500 miles. I am taking it in for warranty work today. I have a vibration in the gas pedal that begins at 35mph. There is also a slight vibraton in the steering wheel at the same time. Just wanted to know if anyone else has had a similar problem.
  • jhawkes2jhawkes2 Posts: 1
    i have the same truck and the same problem. been in shop twice and changed a heat shield and the exaust. truck is still doing it, please if you know anything different let me know! gets so bad sometimes front end shakes!
  • alc8alc8 Posts: 4
    new to the board. o4 silverado 4.8 extended cab. getting a vibration at 45 mph. dealer has checked and rechecked everything from tire balance to replacing the driveshaft. final determination was there isn't a cure except to run with 200-300 lbs of weight in the bed. any thoughts or suggestions?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    Take it to a tire shop that has a hunter 9700 or better. Lots of these dealerships will send the tires out to rebalance and others will balance with older equipement. Do yourself a favor and have those tires checked out with a hunter machine.

    Use this link to find a hunter near you.

    Hunter balancer
  • openend22openend22 Posts: 12
    How long ago did the vibration start? I had one that was doing the same and went thru the dealership 3 times.. they rebalanced the tires and even balanced them on a machine they called a road force balancer.. it moved the vibration up to start at 55mph then.. anyways took it to a old timer front end shop.. we took it for a ride and he came back to the shop put it up in the air then ran the truck with the wheels off the ground.. He pointed to my right rear tire.. It was slightly out of round and thats what the problem was. I had the tire replaced and its fine now.. hope that helps..
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    The vibration in the steering wheel and gas pedal are nearly 95% gone. I got the same run a round from the dealers, "not abnormal, they all do it, it's the step tubes causing it". I'm retired and have plenty of time to make myself a pain in the a** at the dealers. Finally they put a short piece of flex pipe on the exhaust.....no difference. Then they "just discovered" a fix for the vibration from GM. They installed two vibration dampeners on the exhaust system. (part no. 10199232)
    Getting Chevrolet to honor the new vehicle warranty that I paid for in the price of the truck is like pulling teeth.
  • Hey all
    I have a problem that I cannot get fixed. I have had the vehicle to the dealer 3 times and they cannot find the problem. Here are the symptoms.
    When I apply the brakes, the truck starts bouncing in the front end. I have replaced the rotors and brake pads and the ball joints are supposedly good. Had them checked out the last time in, and I was told they are ok. I have bought new upper and lower to replace the old ones, but was told it would be a waste of money.

    So I guess my question is, should I go ahead and have them replaced anyways, and also have the steering link replaced along with the front end bushings?? Anyone ever come across this problem??? The truck has 190K miles on it and the ball joints are the originals, but I do grease them, along with the rest of the lube points, with every oil change.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    When was the last time you changed your shocks?
  • I forgot to add that I changed shocks last year when this problem started. That was one of the first things I thought of. I put on some good biltstein shocks, and my old shocks were really not in bad shape.
  • HI--I purchased a lightly used 2004 Sierra off of a GMC dealer about 6 weeks ago. It has the big block 496 and the Allison 5 speed and is very fun to drive and I assume that come camping season it will pull my camper effortlessly. In the last couple of days though I have noticed that if I lightly apply the throttle from a dead stop I get this minor thump or thunk. I have asked people riding if they have felt or heard it and nobody notices it. It is there and I certainly notice it---so my question is whether anybody else has this combo and notices it or whether it is "normal" with these Allisons. It almost feels like what a bad u joint would do...... I have also read alot about the torque converter bolts loosening on these trucks. Hellllllllllllllllllllppppppp I love the truck but don't want any trouble on a 4 year old rig with 40,000 miles.
  • brian04brian04 Posts: 3
    What was the problem?
  • gavinhgavinh Posts: 3
    i have a 94 serria 4x4 with overdrive auto trans,at approx 105 kph and 2000 rpm the front end shakes so violently i think its going to come apart,if i let off or step on the gas it quits as long as i stay out of the "sour spot",just put new tires on it and the shop didnt say anything about bent rims,im lost
  • gavinhgavinh Posts: 3
    it sounds like we have the exact same problem,did you have any luck sourcing out the promlem?
  • gavinhgavinh Posts: 3
    i have the same problem as you,any luck fixing it?
  • It seems we may have the same problem, with no solution in sight. I have a 2006 1500 Z-71 4x4. When I hit my breaks and/or railroad tracks at any speed, I feel a slight vibration underfoot and in the steering wheel and quickly moves through the whole vehicle growing in intensity until the front-end tires are bouncing off the road and you feel like at any minute you could fly off the road. While you're in this bouncing around, I slow down to 25 to 30 mph to get it to stop. I've replaced front rotors and breaks, rear drums and breaks. I have 20 inch rims: they're 275-55-20 Perrelli Scorpions with "road force balancing." It's got 60,000 miles on it. It is at a point now that I am afriad to have my wife drive my truck because of what could happen. Fortunately, I still have warranty left, just a little concerned they will think I am crazy. Feel free to share ANY information, good or bad, that I can use to correct the problem.
  • gmcman815gmcman815 Posts: 2
    The truck is a 2006 5.3L single cab Z71 with 60,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago I noticed a rattling/tinging metallic sound coming from the front left wheel area while driving at low speeds. 2 weeks ago I was driving at 50mph and a loud rubbing/grinding noise started coming from the same area. Almost sounded like the tire was rubbing the fender. The noise comes and goes. It will drive fine for a couple of days and then the noise comes again. It sometimes sounds worse than others. It does it at all speeds. I have carried it to the dealer 2 times and the truck wasnt making the noise when I got there. They say they can't work on it if it isn't doing something major. Applying brakes does not affect the noise. Sometimes it sounds like the whole front drivetrain is about to lock up. The noise sounds like it is in sync with 1/2 of a wheel rotation. I am not comfortable with driving the truck when it does this. My first thought would be a wheel bearing, but wouldnt a bad bearing cause the noise to happen all the time? Any help is appreciated.
  • gmcman815gmcman815 Posts: 2
    My truck just started acting up again. It made a loud squalling sound from the left front wheel....sounds like brake pads are worn out now. But it is definitely in the brakes. I am going to replace pads next week and see what happens.
  • I just purchased a 2004 Sierra Club Cab, seems like a nice truck however I have a clunking sound during auto shift from 1st to 2nd etc, also on take off. Repair shop states no problem found, anyone with similar problem??Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    Driveline - Bump/Clunk/Squawking Noises

    Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004B

    Date: January 05, 2005

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke)

    Models

    Supercede:

    This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

    Cause

    A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

    Diagnostic Tips

    There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:

    ^ Symptoms - Propeller Shaft

    ^ Knock or Clunk Noise

    ^ Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)

    ^ Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin # 02-04-17-001

    ^ Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin # 01-07-30-042

    ^ Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin # 03-07-30-028


    Correction

    Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.

    Follow the service procedure below.

    1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

    2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.

    Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.

    3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.

    4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.

    5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.

    Note: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.

    6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.

    Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.

    7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.

    8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.

    9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.

    10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.

    11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.

    12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.

    13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.

    14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.

    15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.

    16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.

    17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.

    18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.

    19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.

    20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.

    21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.

    22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.

    23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.

    24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.

    Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.

    25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.

    26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.

    27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.

    28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.

    29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

    30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.

    31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.

    32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts.

    Tighten

    Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N.m (19 lb ft).

    33. Lower the vehicle
    Parts Information

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
  • I just got a 2003 Chevy 2500HD LT that is in near new condition (30,000 miles) on the way home I started to hear this crackling noise that seems to be from the upper driverside of the windshield.???? The truck has a bug guard and on-star ant. and I'm wondering if that is where the noise is comming from. Could the windshield be loose?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    Could the windshield be loose?

    That has been a common problem caused by the bug deflector. Buy some window sealant from Checkers and reseal the windshield.
  • Did you ever find out what this was? I have the exact same problem with my 03 4X4. I've replaced the front wheel bearing assembly and that wasn't it. Any help wil be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Todd
  • I have a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (RWD Ext Cab/5.3 V8) and started to notice a popping noise in the vicinity of the center floorboard hump. The rate of the pop doesn't increase or decrease with the engine RPMs and it doesn't increase or decrease when the truck is in gear, parked, or being driven. I opened the hood to see if the noise could be heard from the engine compartment and I listened from underneath the truck, but did not hear anything. Anyone have the same or similar problem?
  • Looking for a solution. The 2002 Sierra 1500 extended cab drives as if all 4 tires are badly out of balance. The problem begins at approximately 40 mph and felt primarily on the drivers side. So far, every experiment seems to aggravate the problem. We have consulted with a tire company, 5 GM dealerships, GM, and no experiment has helped. Considerable attentiion has be given the wheels, tires, drive shaft, mounts, and barrings. GM recommends replacement body mounts and if that doesn't work, then replace the drive shaft. GM does not know how to correct the problem. Has anyone found a solution to this problem which seems to be characteristic of this GM truck?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    A couple of questions:

    -2 or 4wd?
    -When did this start?
    -Some of the dealerships have a vibration tracking device. Costs about $2500 so not all of them have it. Has this been used at any of the 5 dealerships?
  • Thanks for your questions.
    2 wd.
    Problem started several months ago and has gotton progressively worse.
    Yes, has been checked on 2 different machines-nothing found.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    Vibrations are almost always wheel/tire related. Have you had the wheels balanced using a Hunter GSP9700? If not you can find one near you here:

    Hunter GSP 9700

    Most harmonic vibrations start at around 50-55 mph. The fact that yours start at 40 is unusual. The only thing that happens at that mph is the torque converter locks up at 39 mph and driving at that speed had generated some amount of complaints as the engine tends to lug which might be associated with a type of vibration. Not sure if this would be the case as you've had the truck for awhile and would've noticed this sooner if it was a problem.

    Was anything replaced on the truck prior to this happening?
  • No, nothing had been done to the truck prior to the development of this problem.
  • 2007 silverado
    Had it 12 months bought new 5.3L auto. Been in shop 8 times for vibration and noise problems at 1500 and 2000 rpm, at 1500 rpm I shift down so I just stay in 8 cyl just to avoid noise.
    Got the runaround at first then they handed me a bulletin #06-06-05-001B that states vibration and noise is normal when engine is in 4 cylinder . I belive thats their new way of repairing problems just write up a bulletin. I was also in for a vibration at 60 mph (noticed mirrors shaking), they replaced tires seems to have worked. Been a Chevy man since first truck in 87 very dissapointed on this one.
  • Was wondering if anyone ever figured out what was making this noise. I have the chirping noise also in my 02 Silverado 1500HD. Changed belt.
  • I bought a 2007 Silverado Z 71, V8 5.3l with fuel management system, crew cab, last year and as soon as I put about 5000 miles on it a vibration started. When I come to a stop and the RPM drops to about 500 there is a vibration and it's not a constant vibration, it's an on and off vibration, at times it's more on than off.
    I read on-line that changin the stock spark plug wire with a Taylor 8 or 10mm wire will help, and at the dealer they told me that if I do that I will void my waranty.
    Has anybody else experienced this problem, or do you know how to fix it?
    Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    The changing of the wires sounds plausible. I'd use Magnecore myself however it's up to you. The stock wires aren't the greatest and you might also want to change the plugs while you're at it.

    As far as the dealer voiding warranty...who did you talk to at the dealership? And would they put that denial in writing? I seriously doubt it. Plugs and wires are consumable items and are covered under the Moss Magnuson Act which prohibits the manufacturer from forcing you to use their products by voiding your warranty.

    Since it seems to be an idle problem, you might also want to check/clean your idle air controller.
  • I just recently bought a 2008 Z71 4x4 regular cab and has the same problem on idle like yours. I went to the dealer and they calibrated the spark plugs and told me that if it continues, which it did, that it is normal. So I went again and they said that its normal and theres nothing they could do to it and that supposely all the trucks do the same thing. Don't know if I should take it to another dealer. I just don't know what to do. The truck just has 800 miles on it right now. If you find a solution, please let me know. I feel bad because it is a new truck and I'm already having this problem.
  • I know two more people at work that own 2007 silverado trucks, one of them has a 6.0L V8, and they both have the same vibration when the truck idles. I use mobil 1 5W30 fully synthetic oil in my truck and it seems to make a slight difference. From what I gathered changing the spark plug wires with an 8mm more performant set will supposatly take care of the problem. Some mechanics seem to believe that it will help and some say that it will not make a difference, and I haven't done the change yet so I do not know.
    Let me know if you hear anything else or if you change you spark plug wire set. Thanks.
  • A friend was the maintenance supervisor for Northern Natural Gas and recommended that I dump a quart of lacquer thinner in the gas tank when filling up the tank. Ran much better after that and no noise. Better gas mileage too. Oh I researched his recommendation and since the lacquer thinner is made from toluene, (is a known cancer causing agent so don't spill it on your skin, duh) basically it is a detergent for your engine. cleans the heck out of it without harming anything. since it is oil based just like your fuel.
  • Mine did the same thing, I had it replaced with a new one from a qualified mechanic...had to drop the tank to do it. That solved the problem, no more sound from it.
  • Hi! guys

    I'm from Quebec Canada, and have a mix of steering/vibration/wheel problems with 2005 sierra 4x4.
    have been hearing clunky sound from left front wheel and rough ride since 20,000miles
    Dealer couldn't or wouldn't identify the problem.
    Then had the lube job done, then some sort of column repair and still not up to par.
    Then went to an independent shop where they found that the bushing for the left side torsion bar was totally finished. Last night started to get a serious grinding noise from the same area, perhaps a bearing or CV joint, but I suspect it is all related. Some serious flaws going on here.
    Has anyone else checked /and or had torsion bar problems?
    Also, limited slip doesn't always work
    Frustrated and pissed off
  • I have this same problem. GM dealer di not find anything, but another independent mechanic found that the torsion bar bushing was finished, i seen this myself. That was 2 months ago and now seems like I'm having a wheel bearing or CV joint problem or brake caliper, as last night something was starting to grind and smell behind the same driver side wheel It just never ends, am thinking it is all related somehow.
  • jmech1jmech1 Posts: 1
    The truck is a 2006 5.3L single cab Z71 with 60,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago I noticed a rattling/tinging metallic sound coming from the front left wheel area while driving at low speeds. 2 weeks ago I was driving at 50mph and a loud rubbing/grinding noise started coming from the same area. Almost sounded like the tire was rubbing the fender. The noise comes and goes. It will drive fine for a couple of days and then the noise comes again. It sometimes sounds worse than others. It does it at all speeds. I have carried it to the dealer 2 times and the truck wasnt making the noise when I got there. They say they can't work on it if it isn't doing something major. Applying brakes does not affect the noise. Sometimes it sounds like the whole front drivetrain is about to lock up. The noise sounds like it is in sync with 1/2 of a wheel rotation. I am not comfortable with driving the truck when it does this. My first thought would be a wheel bearing, but wouldnt a bad bearing cause the noise to happen all the time? Any help is appreciated.

    Same truck (2003 4X4), same problem...Has anyone found a solution to this mysterious noise?
  • RDGWVARDGWVA Posts: 1
    I believe you will find the problem to be worn-out wheel bearings. I have an '06 Z71, only has 24,677 miles on it and it started that very scenario today. I stopped at a service station, they put it on the hoist, and my right front wheel bearings are shot! Jack your vehicle up to remove the weight from the front wheel in question. Grap it at the 9 and 3 positions and rock back and forth; then the 12 and 6 positions. If the wheel rocks back and forth as you do this and is not solid, then your bearings are shot. I have heard this is a problem with GMC and Chevys, now I am seeing it for real. My truck is parked at a GMC Dealership 60 miles from my house as I type, waiting for them to work on it. It is still on warranty. This should not happen at 24 or 60,000 miles! If the problem gets bad enough, your wheel can fly off!
  • I have the same noise , can you tell me how they relocated the dipstick. Thanks
  • I have a 04 silverado, when you hit a bump in the road at night the dash lights will get very bright then they will go back to dim were i have them set can anyone help me with this. I also have a rattling noise at low rpms around 30mph and can't figure out what it is. I read were some said they relocated the dipstick I am going to look in to that .
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