I know this may sound weird, but did you think to go to a local Kia dealer and order a new spare tire? That may save you time and money rather than searching all over the place...
My last five or six cars, the spare tire never set foot on pavement. If you travel in unpopulated areas often, I would worry about having a spare tire. Just my opinion. (Knock on wood)
A typical problem with many new cars. Our Rondo experienced this too, but we realized it was simply a loose gas cap - you must turn the cap at least 3 "clicks" for it to seal properly. It may take a couple restarts for the light to go off. Problem solved. We love out Rondo after 18 months and 25,000 kms - you will love yours!
If re-tightening the gas cap doesn't help you should have the trouble code pulled. I've heard a lot of complaints about the mass air flow sensor being defective on new models.
I just recently purchased a used 2008 Rondo with 13,414 miles. When I got it, it only had one key fob. Does any one know how to program a new Fob? Thanks in advance for any useable input.
Every new car magazine and even the fliers I am getting from Kia with all the new 2010 vehicles Not one of them include any mention of a 2010 Kia Rondo. Is it because it may not be produced anymore? Is the new Sorento going to take over the Rondo's spot? Does anyone have any information on this?
yes this same question is being discussed on another forum also, but the Korean factory built 2,853 Carens/Rondo's in July for export (don't have August figures yet), so something must be happening. But like you I can't seem to find anything anywhere on what the changes for 2010 Rondo are going to be. KIA said they are going to change the whole lineup by 2012 and by that time the Borrego will be the oldest vehicle in the pack. You would think there would be hints of some changes as you seem to know all about the other models.
i just noticed that some of the other Rondo have a lockable fuel filler lid (close flat and has to be opened from inside pulling a latch), but mine is not lockable. is this new to the 09 model or is it only available to certain trim?
the lockable fuel filler lid was opened by pushing a button on the drivers door, this was only on the '07 and '08 models. It was changed to the none lockable type for '09.
they keep changing bits of things each year - but why they go backwards is beyond me! The '07 was the best equipped model for the little things.
Can't help you on a lockable cap, but there is other auto stores besides Cdn Tire. What's the dealer say? I've never had the need for one, even all my other vehicles that had non-lockable cap covers - never was an issue.
Canadian - '08 Rondo EX, 2.4L
(when is this site ever going to get upto date with other forums and allow signatures and profiles that show up with each posting - its the only forum that I belong too that is so backward in this respect - its a pain! They said over a year ago it was going to change but nothings happened yet!)
as of the end of September '09, the only models made at the China factory are the Pride (Rio), Cerato, Forte, Optima, Carnival, and Sportage, no indication yet on the Carens.
I'm using fluid rated for minus 20F. I had to put a couple of ziplock bags filled with hot water on the nozzles to get them to thaw out. There was no ice covering the nozzles or anything. A half an hour later they unfroze. The back nozzle started working after the front nozzles unfroze. I'm not sure how that worked.
Temperatures have been in the teens and projected to get 5 to 10 below zero later this week,
Pretty hazardous situation. Wondering if I should invest in a heater for the fluid?
I would suspect the number one reason to change more often is the warm up cycle which will take longer in colder climate. Mixture is richer during warmup and blow-by will condense in cold oil. Because of the extreme temperature change during warm up I'd definitely consider an engine heater even if changing every 4 months. Constantly cycling through the extremes would add to metal fatigue.
I have a new Malibu and living in southern GA. The computer determines when to change, but as of now it looks like that will be about 12,000 miles and I will make the one year mark first. I'm sure I'll change earlier though.
in the warmer months, with 60/40 city/hwy driving, my Venture's (3.4 V6) oil life monitor would indicate to change oil at around 7,000km (4,000 miles).
Chevy is just like the Rondo, i believe the US/Cdn versions have different programming for the oil change interval.
i'm switching to full synthetic next time i change the oil, hope i'll have time to send a sample to oil analysis to determin the proper oil change interval. i want to be good to the environment.
I just joined this forum because my fiance just purchased an '08 Rondo. Unfortunately it didn't come with fog lights, which is a handy option up here in Wisconsin. I acquired OEM fog lights and bezel blanking covers before I discovered that the Rondo puts the switch in the turn signal arm. Has anyone here installed an aftermarket switch? If so where? Any/all advice on this would be most appreciated.
fyi--I advocated for the purchase. I really like the Rondo's roominess and elegant simplicity. It reminds me of my AWD Honda Element.
IMO synthetic is the way to go, its proven to me to simply work better because I also ride Harley-Davidsons. On my air-cooled V-twins, running synthetic actually lowers my engines temperature.
I have a '08 EX Rondo with the factory fog lights. In my own experience I really haven't found any necessity to need them (I thought it was a good thing to have when I bought it). I find the regular low beam with the distinctive cut-off and wide spread seems to do a terrific job - works great in heavy snow too. Have you tested them in your local fog first?
i agree with conwelpic, mine has factory fog lights and to be honest with you, they don't make your visibility any better in those foggy nights.
after talking to my friends they also have same experience (with different makes and models), i can only say they make your car look better, not the driver.
having said that, after market fog lights with a yellowish tint may be different ? according to law of physics, lights closer to the red end of the spectrum do penetrate better through the atomosphere.
IMO regular oil changes are the cheapest engine insurance possible. I wouldn't go past 4K miles even with the synthetic I use. I'm sure the owner's manual recommendation is sufficient to keep the engine going till the end of the warranty period. But, I'm also certain they're not gonna put a new mill in if it breaks later.
=== i agree with conwelpic, mine has factory fog lights and to be honest with you, they don't make your visibility any better in those foggy nights. ===
In foggy weather, I noticed incoming cars are easily seen when their foglights are on. For this reason, I turn on my foglights. To be seen by incoming vehicles.
Another example of idiots in Detroit. As you stated, the shorter wave length of light penetrates fog better, far better than white light of which much will be reflected back blinding the driver. Red near infra-red would be best but red is only legal on the back. So the next best would be a near red Amber. Also, I hate those yellow lights on the back. Red is the only color that does not cause night blindness and that is why it is used on aircraft carriers during night operations.
Some drivers are using fog lights for regular driving. It's very blinding to older drivers and is being considered for a policing ban when there is no fog; by some locales in NA (North American)..
i find that the HID lights are even worse, they are making driving at night, especially rainy night a hazard for all the drivers with regular halogen lights.
We bought a 2010 Kia Rondo with tan interior and have found the seats stain from raindrops if you don't close the door quickly, snow if it happens to fall on the seats, and some water from a water bottle that tipped. I have never had any vehicle do this. I left a white towel on it to absorb the water bottle stain. It stained the towel brown. Took the kids sleigh riding, some snow on their coats made the seat belts run and stain. Part of the seat belt is now a darker tan. We are not happy at all with spending money on a 2010 vehicle and having it look like it is 10 years old in 4 months. We are taking it to the dealership to have an inspection done, which the results then go to the district manager, and then to Kia. We will see where we get with this, but obviously Kia has not addressed their upholstery fabric issue since 2008.
When we bought our 09 gray Rondo, I would not let anyone use it until I had sprayed the cloth seats with Scotchgard 3x. I thought the fabric looked like it would stain easily. Also, I had read things on these forums.
But, I wd have done the Scotchgard route anyway. I have been a big fan of the stuff ever since I sprayed it on a white purse (to be used by dau at a wedding) and water just beaded up & ran off it.
It has been working well for me & I have been driving it more than a year.
Scotchgard has bad chemicals which will affect the environment and your and your family's health. They break down eventually and seep into your tissues.
We had a 2007 with grey leather and now have a 2011 with black leather. We are finding the leather quite easy to clean, even with 2 kids. Plus, when we still had the 2007, the leather was showing little sign of wear at all. A friend had a 2008 with cloth, I did not hear her mention how easy/hard it was to clean.
Has anyone had problems with warped brake rotors? I have a 2007 EX V6 with 30,000 miles on it. Getting a severe vibration in the steering wheel during moderate to hard braking. Pads are fine. I assume it's the rotors or front end wayout of alignment. Do they even resurface rotors anymore or just replace them?
tsm280z, I replaced all 4 brakes (!) in 2010, at about 30,000 miles. The rear calipers had frozen due to our very salty climate and I wasn't proactive enough to notice it. I did think that the front brakes were working harder than normal but by the time I had the brakes checked, the rears were rotted and the fronts had begun to warp. Partly the fault of our climate, and partly my fault. (Our climate is so salty, my 2002 PT Cruiser's rocker panels are almost non-existent!) Considering that I replaced 4 rotors, 4 sets of pads and needed to free up the rear calipers, the cost wasn't too bad. Now that I have a 2011 Rondo EX V6, I will be paying closer attention to my brakes!
Thanks bgw. My wifes' Taurus had the same problem at 30,000 miles. Turned out Ford used crappy rotors ... common problem. Just curoius how many other Rondo owners have a similar problem.
If within the past few thousand miles anyone dropped the wheels for rotation, brake check, etc. take it to them. You might try gotcha by asking to see their wheel changers torque wrench. But he might actually have one, just did not use it. Most are now recognizing that failure to use torque wrench is the reason for warped rotors. It has been a long known fact but denied by many mechanics. GM has even put out bulletins to mechanics to always use a torque wrench for the wheels because doing otherwise will damage rotors and even the wheel base. If you have cast aluminum wheels, the improper torque warps the mounting face as well as the rotor, so just replacing the rotor still leaves you with a warped wheel. I would not accept a turned rotor because the problem may resurface, but to a lesser degree. The metal will try to rebound a little if properly torqued. If you can prove they improperly torqued, say an impact wrench, with or without torque-stix was used, then I'd say they owe you new wheels and rotors.
I have a high pitched sound coming from what I believe is from the rear brakes. Sounds similar to the sound the brake wear indicator would make (not sure if Kias have them) but I have plenty of pad left (34,000 miles). It only happens on the highway at speeds over 60 mph. If I tap the brakes the noise goes away and then comes back after I release the brake. This is what makes me believe it's coming from the brakes. If I drop the speed the noise goes away. I've taken the wheels off to inspect but can't find anything out of the ordinary. Anyone else have a similar problem?
OE finally wore out, past 60K. I talked my wife into putting Michelins on. What a difference. Ride quality has improved a lot as well as road noise. Dealer rotated them at next oil change, prematurely since they only had 1000 miles, but idiots used impact wrench, not torque wrench. The warped rotor vibration was starting before I realized it. Some of it has gone away with proper torqueing. The dealer apparently has added their own alignment rack so they no longer slep the job out and tire installation was done in dealer shop. Steering seems a little loose when it comes to highway control. A bit more than what had been. It always had a bit of control issue in crosswinds and passing vehicles. A good wax job may reduce some of it, but I also get the feeling that tie rod ends may be involved or the alignment.
Comments
Can anyone tell me if there's anything special I need to look for, or will a spare from any Kia fit?
BTW, it's an '07 EX 4-cyl model--great deal :shades:
I'd try checking salvage yards.
Problem solved.
We love out Rondo after 18 months and 25,000 kms - you will love yours!
I've heard a lot of complaints about the mass air flow sensor being defective on new models.
But like you I can't seem to find anything anywhere on what the changes for 2010 Rondo are going to be. KIA said they are going to change the whole lineup by 2012 and by that time the Borrego will be the oldest vehicle in the pack. You would think there would be hints of some changes as you seem to know all about the other models.
Own: 2008 Rondo EX, 2.4 for 22 months
is this new to the 09 model or is it only available to certain trim?
09 Rondo EX 7-seater I4
'08 Rondo EX, 5-seater, 2.4L (Canadian)
i'm not able to find a lockable cap from Canadian Tire, any recommendation?
Can't help you on a lockable cap, but there is other auto stores besides Cdn Tire. What's the dealer say? I've never had the need for one, even all my other vehicles that had non-lockable cap covers - never was an issue.
Canadian - '08 Rondo EX, 2.4L
(when is this site ever going to get upto date with other forums and allow signatures and profiles that show up with each posting - its the only forum that I belong too that is so backward in this respect - its a pain! They said over a year ago it was going to change but nothings happened yet!)
http://kia.ca/Default.aspx
http://autonews.gasgoo.com/auto-news/1008679/Kia-Carens-MPV-to-be-China-made-by-- 2010.html
07 Rondo has:
Cargo light
Glove box light
Better cup holder
08 Rondo has:
Trip computer
Aux audio input
Anyway, the 09 model seems to be the worse among the 3. Nevertheless, new features are added to the 2010.
Fram has an Xtended Gard oil filter, the oil change interval is 16,000km (10,000 miles) with synthetic oil.
is anyone using synthetic oil who can provide some recommendation, and will this cause any problem with the factory warranty?
.
according to their respective owner's manuals:
US : 7,500 miles (12,000km) or 1 year
CDN: (5,000 miles) 8,000km or 4 months
.
Temperatures have been in the teens and projected to get 5 to 10 below zero later this week,
Pretty hazardous situation. Wondering if I should invest in a heater for the fluid?
Because of the extreme temperature change during warm up I'd definitely consider an engine heater even if changing every 4 months. Constantly cycling through the extremes would add to metal fatigue.
I have a new Malibu and living in southern GA. The computer determines when to change, but as of now it looks like that will be about 12,000 miles and I will make the one year mark first. I'm sure I'll change earlier though.
That could be the case. I'd love to find a flat heater to mount under the area with a switch inside.
in the warmer months, with 60/40 city/hwy driving, my Venture's (3.4 V6) oil life monitor would indicate to change oil at around 7,000km (4,000 miles).
Chevy is just like the Rondo, i believe the US/Cdn versions have different programming for the oil change interval.
i'm switching to full synthetic next time i change the oil, hope i'll have time to send a sample to oil analysis to determin the proper oil change interval. i want to be good to the environment.
.
Has anyone here installed an aftermarket switch? If so where? Any/all advice on this would be most appreciated.
fyi--I advocated for the purchase. I really like the Rondo's roominess and elegant simplicity. It reminds me of my AWD Honda Element.
Have you tested them in your local fog first?
my location: Ontario, Canada
i agree with conwelpic, mine has factory fog lights and to be honest with you, they don't make your visibility any better in those foggy nights.
after talking to my friends they also have same experience (with different makes and models), i can only say they make your car look better, not the driver.
having said that, after market fog lights with a yellowish tint may be different ?
according to law of physics, lights closer to the red end of the spectrum do penetrate better through the atomosphere.
.
i agree with conwelpic, mine has factory fog lights and to be honest with you, they don't make your visibility any better in those foggy nights.
===
In foggy weather, I noticed incoming cars are easily seen when their foglights are on. For this reason, I turn on my foglights. To be seen by incoming vehicles.
Also, I hate those yellow lights on the back. Red is the only color that does not cause night blindness and that is why it is used on aircraft carriers during night operations.
Mechanic told me it's in the fuel tank!!
.
But, I wd have done the Scotchgard route anyway. I have been a big fan of the stuff ever since I sprayed it on a white purse (to be used by dau at a wedding) and water just beaded up & ran off it.
It has been working well for me & I have been driving it more than a year.
I have a 2007 EX V6 with 30,000 miles on it. Getting a severe vibration in the steering wheel during moderate to hard braking. Pads are fine. I assume it's the rotors or front end wayout of alignment. Do they even resurface rotors anymore or just replace them?
I replaced all 4 brakes (!) in 2010, at about 30,000 miles. The rear calipers had frozen due to our very salty climate and I wasn't proactive enough to notice it. I did think that the front brakes were working harder than normal but by the time I had the brakes checked, the rears were rotted and the fronts had begun to warp. Partly the fault of our climate, and partly my fault. (Our climate is so salty, my 2002 PT Cruiser's rocker panels are almost non-existent!)
Considering that I replaced 4 rotors, 4 sets of pads and needed to free up the rear calipers, the cost wasn't too bad. Now that I have a 2011 Rondo EX V6, I will be paying closer attention to my brakes!
Turned out Ford used crappy rotors ... common problem.
Just curoius how many other Rondo owners have a similar problem.
Most are now recognizing that failure to use torque wrench is the reason for warped rotors. It has been a long known fact but denied by many mechanics. GM has even put out bulletins to mechanics to always use a torque wrench for the wheels because doing otherwise will damage rotors and even the wheel base. If you have cast aluminum wheels, the improper torque warps the mounting face as well as the rotor, so just replacing the rotor still leaves you with a warped wheel. I would not accept a turned rotor because the problem may resurface, but to a lesser degree. The metal will try to rebound a little if properly torqued.
If you can prove they improperly torqued, say an impact wrench, with or without torque-stix was used, then I'd say they owe you new wheels and rotors.
It only happens on the highway at speeds over 60 mph. If I tap the brakes the noise goes away
and then comes back after I release the brake. This is what makes me believe it's coming from the brakes. If I drop the speed the noise goes away.
I've taken the wheels off to inspect but can't find anything out of the ordinary.
Anyone else have a similar problem?
Dealer rotated them at next oil change, prematurely since they only had 1000 miles, but idiots used impact wrench, not torque wrench. The warped rotor vibration was starting before I realized it. Some of it has gone away with proper torqueing.
The dealer apparently has added their own alignment rack so they no longer slep the job out and tire installation was done in dealer shop.
Steering seems a little loose when it comes to highway control. A bit more than what had been. It always had a bit of control issue in crosswinds and passing vehicles. A good wax job may reduce some of it, but I also get the feeling that tie rod ends may be involved or the alignment.
Anyone out there who has had there timing belt replaced at 60,000 miles?
Experiences?