Older Ford F-Series (20+ years) Questions

noooobienoooobie Member Posts: 1
edited July 2014 in Ford
I Own A 1977 Ford F150.. It Has a new carb. and a new fuel pump but when i start it it will run for a few minates then stalls out like its running out of fuel? i've taken the fuel line off and watched it and it pumps out the fuel.. So any kind of "HELP" will do.


  • mrguinnessmrguinness Member Posts: 6
    Anyone know how I can find out the blue book value (the value I could claim for a donation, actually) for this type of vehicle?

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H EdmundsAdministrator Posts: 11,114
    I know that the laws have changed regarding donation deductions, but since I am not an expert, I'll point you toward our discussion called Real-World Trade-In Values. Folks over there can give you some ideas.

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  • huncherhuncher Member Posts: 2
    Am having trouble finding an original photo and specs for my 1977 F-250 High boy truck. Am trying to get classic plates and PA DMV is saying that it has a lift kit on it and will not okay the classic plates. I know that it came from the factory like that, but am having trouble documenting it.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    You may want to contact Ford Customer Service on this one. With the VIN, they should be able to produce a production sheet and possibly other info that will authenticate the factory ride height.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • car50ncar50n Member Posts: 1
    When the Truck is cold. Turn key on fuel pump will run constantly. Truck will not start. After turning it off and on 30 40 times truck will start. It runs Ruff for 5 mins then runs smooth and if you shut it off and turn back on, Fuel pump run for about 3 seconds and shuts off and truck will start. Fuel pressure 55 not running 50 when running holds 50psi in off position.
    Dual Tank system rear Tank pump not working.
  • scubarashscubarash Member Posts: 4
    i am having a similair problem with my 1990 ford f-150. Do your pumps run and run and run for a long time too, and if so will the truck not start until the pump stops. I have replaced everything from the pumps to the filter to the fuel pump relays to the fuel pressure regulator. I can't seem to fix my problem. :confuse:
  • huncherhuncher Member Posts: 2
  • hektohekto Member Posts: 2
    You may be interested in classic plates collection - www.ussrlicenseplates.com
  • hektohekto Member Posts: 2
    You may be interested in classic plates collection - link title
  • kjmac1kjmac1 Member Posts: 2
    Have an '82 F100 P/U-302W.
    Having a hard time finding out where the neg coil wire terminates.
    Original location seemed to go into the cab of the truck (under dash). No indication where the connection point is. Anyone out there have an idea?
  • kjmac1kjmac1 Member Posts: 2
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Most likely the negative wire would go into the wiring harness into the steering column and thru the ignition switch. to a common ground.
  • bbrannanbbrannan Member Posts: 1
    I'm wanting to shorten my 1960 F 600 & put a pickup box on the it. The problem is I'm not sure if the cab style for the F 600 was the same as the 100, 200, or 300. I'm contemplating widening a step side or puting a fleet side for a dully - I don't know which would look better. I have a tiny budget but I have time and tools. Any advice would be greatly appreicated.
  • clilnickerclilnicker Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know if there is any other transfer case that is interchangeable with this truck 7.3 diesel 5spd? I have a borg warner 1356.
  • trukin250trukin250 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1975 f-250 2wd. i am wanting to make it 4wd but dont know what to do, help?
  • tonyf250tonyf250 Member Posts: 1
    I changed the ignition coil, ignition module and still no spark,.
    Fuel pumps are fine, Any ideas? :confuse:
  • tweetybyrd505tweetybyrd505 Member Posts: 2
    Hope somebody can help. Have a 1960 Ford F100 newly rebuilt engine. when we turn the key there is nothing, won't start, no lights, no nothing. Cannot jump it from the battery, but will start if jumped from the starter solenoid. What could be causing this to happen. WE have changed out the starter solenoid, ignition switch, with no luck.
    thanks in advance
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    A ULEV car built today produces 90% less smog forming pollutants running down the highway at 50 mph than your 1960 sitting in the driveway with the engine off...(if there is gas in the tank)

  • 1stchoice1stchoice Member Posts: 1
    I am having problems getting my truck to start i replaced the coil wires, plugs cap and rotor and the points. i am getting fire from the coil to the cap but not to the plugs. what do i do next? i have read the books and did everything i can think of.
  • cigamwil2001cigamwil2001 Member Posts: 1
    Need advice: I'm getting ready to doll it up for street/highway driving. Has original 5.0 302 but need to replace original 5 sp elect Auto OD transmission. Do I have option for other tranny , or do I already have the best. Also is good overhaul as good as a after market tranny.

  • tweetybyrd505tweetybyrd505 Member Posts: 2
  • joe29001joe29001 Member Posts: 48
    Q: How many smog-forming pollutants are released during the production of a new ULEV vehicle? How many smog-forming pollutants are released while crushing a 1960 Ford F100?
    A: Lots.

    Q: How smog-forming pollutants are released to produce the 1960 Ford F100?
    A: None.

    It sounds like the 1960 F100 owner is the true environmentalist. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.
  • matrixmanmatrixman Member Posts: 1
    My stick shift, 300ci six idles nice, but if I try to accelerate moderately, it flutters and misfires. It does it in any gear. If I floor the accelerator, the flutter and misfiring ceases and it accelerates sharply with no misfiring.
    Have replaced the wires, plugs, Ignition (high voltage) coil, fuel filter, and checked the fuel pressure. Took the ignition module out and it tested fine at the local parts store. The parts store said maybe its the coil inside the distributer. I was told to pull the distributer, remove the gear on the end of the shaft, and disassemble the distributer to install a new one. While I'm not opposed to doing the work, it would be nice to have someone else agree with the parts store that this coil could cause the problem I've described. Any comments will be appreciated~!
  • mowerguymowerguy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 74 f-250 xlt 2wd, I am lookig for a repair manual or some exploded views on the power steering box, i have a leak on the input shaft and need to fix it. this vehicle is in pefect working condition and lives in fairview alberta and i use it for my seasonal business, can you help me out here? [email protected] or 780-834-7665

    U.S. Army (Ret.)
  • chaseman113chaseman113 Member Posts: 1
    Well didn't it take pollution to make that new vehicle? While that old truck has been going around for twice or more time that the ULEV will ever last. Plus a lot of new car parts are made in countries of lower pollution laws then first world countries.

  • carl5251carl5251 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys/Gals!

    I have a BW 1356 transfer case on my 88 F-250 4x4 and I am planning on rebuilding it myself. There is a site that sells videos on rebuilding transfer cases but I don't know which video to get. There are 3 choices: New Process 203, New Process 205, and a New Process 208. Here is the link to the site. http://www.technicalvideos.com/videos/transfercase.phtml

    I called them on the phone and the woman who answered the phone could not tell me which video to get. She told me to ask transmission shops or part shops....weird.

    Could any of you explain which video I might need or if there is better information available? Thanks in advance.


    Ps: the video is under $30 and I thought I could watch it and then decide if I could tackle the job myself.
  • ws6mavs41ws6mavs41 Member Posts: 1
    Is $1,400 a good price for a 1965 Ford F100? It is in good condition with a boss 302 motor, but it does need a radiator and new battery? I'm trying to find out how many miles it has on it, but I don't know as of yet. :)
  • mrsixpackmrsixpack Member Posts: 39
    I know this is a older post but I just found this site. It sounds to me like you could have a bad acc. pump on the carb. Get a kit and rebuild it, make sure the kit includes the acc. pump and its set right ! It has to be the carb or the dist. Before you tear apart the dist go get a old one from a junk yard and try it....if that sloves the problem then ya know it was the dist ! My bet is the carb !
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Old trucks are not valued quite like old cars---trucks always have a usefulness that is worth something. Since a battery and radiator only cost maybe $300 and are easy to install, I'd say $1700 is fair enough for the truck, presuming it is not a mangled, rusted, beat up old piece of junk.

    If the engine is overheating and the seller claims its the radiator's fault, you might not want to take his word for it, and check for a bad head gasket also. But if the radiator is just leaking a lot, then that's the problem obviously.

    How are the tires? Truck tires are expensive.
  • tango35tango35 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 87/88 f150 it idles fine till i but it in gear when i but it in gear engines dies and ideas would be great thank you
  • mrsixpackmrsixpack Member Posts: 39
    This is a tuff one. I know of one guy that this happened to, it turned out to be something wrong with the vacuum modulator in the auto trans. Putting it in gear changed something and it opened the vacuum wide open....or some such thing. Check all the vacuum lines, see if yours has any type of electric or vacuum solenoid/plunger thingy up on the carb that shoul up the idles when placed in gear ! This is tuff so keep playing with it.....bet its something simple like a lose vacuum line etc !
  • maeleoinmaeleoin Member Posts: 1
    1988 Ford F150 ignition.
    When key is turned, excessive play in the turn and no electrical contact made to spin starter. Examination by mechanic showed battery and connections to be ok, starter to be functioning, solenoid to be ok, starter switch to be ok. Replaced ignition lock cylinder hoping to eliminate looseness in ignition, but discovered that there appears to be side to side movement in the actuator rod leading from the ignition lock down to ignition switch on bottom of steering column.The mechanic found that the truck had been converted to an automatic transmission which probably changed the steering column in some way significant but not obvious. Is there some sort of retaining device or stabilizing retainer for that actuator rod that would prevent sideways movement of the actuator rod (which prevents the spring loaded appearance of the ignition lock from the start position)? Perhaps somewhere hidden just below the ignition lock under the steering column covering? Also, where is the transmission neutral switch located? I suspect that it is either non functioning or perhaps needing adjustment. Is there any other area to investigate that could cause a non start situation?
  • diehardforddiehardford Member Posts: 50
    I used to have a 88 F150 300 six five speed manual. A similar problem turned out to be the secondary ignition module on back of distributor. About 35 dollars to repair. Requires special tool around 5 dollars sold at all parts stores.
  • surclaysurclay Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a 87 f-250 diesel with a simalar problem when i turn the ignition it wont start unless i push up on the sterring wheel. now it barly starts so i belive it is the actuator rod. what do you think? :confuse:
  • treeman01treeman01 Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking for a complete wiring harness for my 1963 Ford F100...where do I look?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You've been directed to sources in our Answers Department, where you also posted. If you can't find your question (should be linked in your e-mail), come back and let us know.
  • edanforthedanforth Member Posts: 1
    How do I find the year of the motor? The air cleaner says 460 but I don't think that was available for 1972.
  • dglarsondglarson Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1982 F150, Straight 6 with automatic transmission with the following problem. With engine running but sitting in park the wipers, turn signals, emergency flashers and heater fan do NOT work. I put the vehicle into Drive and the wipers start working but the turn signals, emergency flashers and heater fan still do NOT work. With the Engine OFF but the ignition key turned to On, the wipers, heater fan, emergency flashers and turn signals all Work.
    This is clearly some kind of electrical problem but I don't know where to look or start.
  • mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    WHAT ?????
  • trobertctrobertc Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1987 Ford F150 (4.9 300ci FI 4x4. 4 speed manual) I have a problem when it warms up it starts choking and stalling.. I replaced the fuel filter because I thought it had some trash in the tank but It still stalls when it gets warm. I am sure I have enough gas but I am lost. Could it be the Rotor cap and button?. I dont think it is the catalytic convert. for it doesnt glow when hot. Can some one help?
  • trobertctrobertc Member Posts: 5
    did replacing the distributor help?.. and did it only do this when warm? my issue sounds about the same but it doesnt accelerate when I floor it.. it stalls out
  • ckelton489ckelton489 Member Posts: 3
    i would start with the steering column i too had the same prob but never acted exactly like that..just some of the stuff didnt work then not realizin it they did work but not thinkin bout it at the time....i just pulled off the steering wheel and started cleanin all the contacts. then everything worked and never had a prob since, now granted this may not fix all of ur probs but it should help alot plus theres not alot of work and its cheap to do.
  • ckelton489ckelton489 Member Posts: 3
    i just put dropped in an all roller 302 fuel injected...which i converted to carb. i installed all new exhust startin with long tube headers and true dual all the way back... i even put in 2 cats for each pipe the truck is quiet id like to have some noise but thats not the issue...i just got pulled over the other day for expired state inspection sticker. i do not have it inspected cause im not sure if i would pass with no smog pump....theres nothin to hook it up to....so does anybody kno what i should do? i didnt get a ticket this time but dont mean i wont. so i need to do somethin soon. i will try next week but im pretty sure of the answer.
  • ckelton489ckelton489 Member Posts: 3
    alrighty bub ur carb needs to be adjusted...the needle and seat aint lettin the fuel into the bowl so its usin the fuel in the bowl till it runs out so the needle and seat aint openin up enough to keep fillin it back up...it should actually stay at one level continuously just adjust that as its runnin till its right...lemme ask is it a holley? they are famous for that and unfortunatly u'll be adjustin it alot...not now but in the future the next time u start it when its cold....and when u get it runnin cont. u'll still have to adjust it then....its tedious i mean u can onlt turn it like 1/32 of an inch at a time till it runs right on and off the throttle...if its a4bbl u'll have 2 bowls 2 needle and seats. front and back right there on top
  • mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Hi Tweetybird,
    Many of the starters produced require a strap (usually copper) which goes under the Battery Positive lead to the solinoid terminal. This supplies power to the ignition system complete and provides power to the solonoid. Without this strap nothing will work (other than jump starting as you have indicated. Install the strap should solve your problem. Mike9408
  • mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    I realise this is an old posting but to clear it up for anyone else out there...The Positive side of the coil comes from the ignition switch (when you turn the switch on it sends power to the coil). The negative side of the coil (while it may appear to go inside the cab) eventually ends up connecting to the Distributer. If you run this wire to a common ground you will either burn up the wiring or burn a fuseable link somewhere in the system. Good luck.
  • crabmanlancrabmanlan Member Posts: 1
    My 86 Ford F250 302 TBI has developed a hard "miss" upon accelleration. It runs well at idle, at any speed reached by slow accelleration but upon hard accelleration as in passing or on a steep hill it missess hard like no fuel or no spark. It will continue to do so until you let off. There is occasionally a Pop.

    Any thoughts?

  • csnovercsnover Member Posts: 2
    I'm guessing you have fixed this problem by now but if not...When I had my 87 ford and I would try to floor it the same thing happened. What I found was that I was sucking in air from my exhaust manifold because of two cracks around where the carb connected in.
  • csnovercsnover Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1977 Ford 150 and the last owner put an after market steering wheel on and after I bought it I realized that the blinker swtich on the steering column just hangs loose. I was wondering what it connects to inside there to keep the tension on it so you can switch the blinkers on and off. I haven't had time to take it apart yet
  • asaleyasaley Member Posts: 1
    You may have trash in your tank. I had about the same problem several years ago after we had the gas shortage (9-11). I would be going down the road and seem to run out of fuel but with plenty left. I ended up pulling the tank and cleaned out a lot of junk . I changed the strainer and filters. I think I got it when I filled up while the were receiving a truck load into a almost empty tank which sturred up the bottom and I got a lot in my tank.
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