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Would you inflate them to the maximum lbs.shown on the tires?
Regards,
Buster
My tire says 44 # max and the car mfg specs 32lbs, I will go to 38 #.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/tires-auto-parts/auto-parts/carcare-myth- s-vs-reality-1205/overview/index.htm?resultPageIndex=3&resultIndex=24&searchTerm- =tire%20pressure
Thanks. Bubba keeps her Fit tires at 38 lbs.
Regards,
Buster
mileage getting better with age, I'm at 31k miles
sport auto and 33 mpg avg.
I have 6600 miles on my car that was purchased in January 2008.
northernfit,
That is a handy link! And it reinforces what many have said on the forum.
Proper tire pressure is a balance of tire specs, weight of vehicle, safety and ride. Thanks
Kip
I had been running the tires in my 3/4 ton truck at a lower pressure than recommended to get better traction in the winter. I posed a question to the folks at Consumer Reports and they said told me not to since the vehicle had been tested with 60 psi in the front and 80 psi in the rear. Definitely a conservative approach, but I like to be conservative with my vehicles (and not much else )
That doesn't mean the amount of fuel used hardly increases. The extra aero drag created as speeds go up increases in an exponential way.
Also...
RPMs should increase by more than 500 for every 15 MPH in a fit, in fifth gear. That is more than "hardly" to me.
I agree, The wind drag would be considerable at the speeds reported. I suspect the "fill up" after that particular trip was one of those "flukes" we all experience from time to time. :confuse:
shneor,
I drive our Pilot and am very particular how I refuel. Run the pump on the lowest "auto" setting. Go 1 click after the initial shut off. Try to use the same pump, and in the cool of the morning. With my typical local driving, the mileage is most always 17-19 MPG. However it has ranged from 14 to 21 with identical driving patterns and conditions. ? ? ?
Fuel tanks contain an air pocket, as the filler tube generally goes into the side of the tank. It is high, but still in the side. With our two cars, when the right front wheel is lower than the rest of the car it will hold more fuel. Apparently the tilt of the car allows more air to escape from the tank during the fill up, which allows more gas to go in.
Kip
But what was additionally perplexing was that the Fit Sport gets 1-2 mpg worse both city/hwy mileage than the Fit base, even with the same automatic transmission. :confuse:
Is the Fit Sport that much heavier? Or is it the paddleshifters? There was no mileage difference listed between the Fit base and Fit Sport with the first generation.
It amounts to the fact that the automatic has taller gearing than the manual (allowing the engine to run at a lower RPM at higher speeds). They gear the manual shorter to prevent the driver from having to manually downshift too much all the time on the highway (more usable power is available the higher the RPMs are, so downshiting is required less).
I'd sacrifice available performance for fuel economy!
i've put 3100 miles on it.
most of the time i average 33.5 mpg.
the highest i can remember having = 37mpg.
i drive carefully, no rip-roaring starts off of the line.
though at times on the hwy i do 80mph steadily. i never go faster than 80.
i'd love to get 45mph!
Ah, of course. That makes sense. I would also guess, then, that the '09 automatic would be significantly less peppy than the manual? anyone have acceleration numbers? the slightly worse mileage might be worthwhile if the manual is notably quicker.
I'm surprised that Honda didn't offer a six speed manual, but I would venture that it's in the works for later years, since competitor Nissan Versa has one.
Anyway, I'm still wondering why the Sport is 1-2 mpg worse in mileage than the base Fit. There is a weight difference, but not huge. I wonder what items on the Sport add the most weight? Could there be anything besides weight that makes the Sport get worse mileage, with the same transmission?
A skilled driver can get better mileage with the MT in city or local driving. However most drivers are not as "skilled" as they think and the AT shifting logic may win out.
On the road the torque convertor locks up and doesn't slip any longer. Road RPM at a given speed will be lower with the AT due to the higher overall gearing.
Another gear would help both the AT and the MT.
Kip
1st fill 192 miles, 4.98g = 38.55mpg, computer said 43.2.
2nd fill 244 miles, 7.38g = 33mpg. Computer said 38.1.
I am a pretty conservative driver used to milking vehicles for best mpg. This represents about 50% highway vs city.
This is a bit perplexing. Why is my math nearly 5mpg worse than the computer shows? The first fill was just a top off as I couldn't stand the mpg curiosity and I wanted to start with a tank I filled since I couldn't be sure how full the dealer filled. I just fill until the pump clicks off.
I bought the auto based on the better mpg rating. I'm not sure this is valid at this point. I did not realize the Sport was rated worse than the Base. I probably would have bought a base if I would have known this.
If the final drive is the same, and the overall diameter of the Sport tires is more than the Base, there is more mass to get into motion and could hurt "City". However on the road the Sport would be turning fewer RPM at a given speed, as the tires are traveling a little farther with each revolution.
Here is an example. On an old Chevy van that we used for camper towing at 2500 RPM we were moving 58 mph. However, with any 10 mile stretch of X-way mile markers, the odometer would show we had been 10.7 miles.
Next time we got tires I went with a much larger set as we were not camping any longer. The tach still showed 2500 at 58 mph. Which it should. But the odometer now shows we traveled 9.9 miles.
If the readings with the smaller tires had of been accurate (10 miles), then changing to the larger tires would have then shown we had only been 9.2 miles., instead of the 10 we actually traveled. So instead of getting the 16 mpg, the odometer reading divided by gallons would have been more like 14.6.
So did Honda re calibrate for any differences in overall tire size? Only measuring with mileage markers or using a GPS for actual miles driven, when compared to the odometer, would tell for sure.
Putting larger diameter tires on any car without re calibrating the odometer, will show a drop in MPG even though it may not have actually changed. The ground effects and spoiler on the Fit Sport may also cause some additional drag. :sick:
Kip
The previous Fit Sport looked like this, as tested by Motor Trend magazine:
5AT - 11.4s to 60 MPH
5MT - 8.7s to 60 MPH
A large difference, but you must account for launch technique, as well. The manual can have the clutch dropped at a high RPM to get some wheelspin, which helps times for acceleration versus an automatic.
Conclusion we came to is that you can exceed the EPA mileage estimates if you are able to control a combination of a number of factors that can increase mileage. We did not try any of the strange "hypermiler" techniques we've been reading about, such as not braking through curves (i.e., too fast for them) or coasting down hills in neutral or even shutting off the engine down hills or when stopped, or "drafting on the tail of semitruck trailers (highly dangerous).
Yes, there are bigger/heavier cars that can get better fuel economy than the Fit, but how many of them are more fun to drive? And how many of them can you buy new for $16-18K? For the "bang for you buck" factor, the Fit gets pretty high marks in my book.
Exactly !
Also a considerable time can be dropped from the AT 0-60 time by holding the left foot on the brake and giving enough throttle to "Pump up" the torque converter to a point of one of the front wheels actually turning slightly.
This would enable the car to "leave" with more RPM, thus more horse power.
Doubt if many or any of the car rags do that!
Kip
This would enable the car to "leave" with more RPM, thus more horse power.
Doubt if many or any of the car rags do that!
Actually, I believe I've read that they do! Many rags (such as MotorTrend) use whatever means to get the fastest time possible, and make no bones about it.
Consumer reports does not, however. They simply put foot to the floor. Their numbers are probably a good judgment for 99% of the people out there, since that's how most people drive.
Because those cars tend be faster than the Fit without having to drive foot-to-the-floor.
I have driven both a 2008 and the new 2009 Fit. They make my 130hp Accord feel fast, but they are neat cars that are fun to drive; it is just that forward progress isn't the reason they're fast. Go-Carts are fun but don't go fast.
I'll tell you some that can't hang - Caliber SE, Accent GLS, Kia Rio 5, Versa, Suzuki Reno, and Yaris.
2888 lbs./130 HP Accord = 22.22 lbs./HP (Edmunds data)
2432 lbs./109 HP Fit = 22.31 lbs/HP
Pretty even. Yea my old Accord LX Coupe Automatic felt pretty fast until I got beat by a 4.0L Ford Ranger.
As far as fast goes, I used to think 10 second cars were fast until I saw 6 second ones (at the track, of course). Then the 10 second ones looked like traffic going by on the highway. Subjective.
Around town, my Accord feels much peppier because of the available torque. To be fair, I know my Accord isn't fast. On an open road with a 65 MPH limit and a red light I actually did a standing start timed 0-60 run; it did it in 9.9 seconds (about 1.5s faster than the old Fit). Not a big deal since neither car is going to be raced.
And before you ask; no, I'm not a race-car type driver. I'm usually right at 5 MPH over the limit, and keep it under 3k RPM in town. That was a rare instance for me! .
Anyway, I've taken us far enough off-topic, and I apologize! :shades:
TheGrad
Interior quality, flexibility, and handling are clearly in the Fit's favor though. If acceleration and economy are the only factors then Yaris clearly beats the Fit at least with the 2007-08 models. See the Motor Trend comparison of the 07 Fit, Yaris, and Versa for just one example.
I haven't seen a direct comparison of 0-60 and quarter miles times between the 08 and 09 Fit.
Then go to msg #53.
Versa does have more room for rear seat passengers, but definitely not as versitale as some others. Mileage for the Versa, according to those reporting on
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ , is 25.6-30.7 average combined for AT. The Fit is 29.9-31.9 mpg average combined for AT. Not enough difference to get excited about, but still a difference.
For car poolers, the Versa might be a better choice. For utility it is not.
Kip
Actually had more recalls and minor problems with each of our 2 Hondas than with the Maxima. :confuse:
Kip
These two car companies have changed a lot in ten years, so I don't know that this means anything.
I took these facts to my dealer, booked an appointment with the service department and was rewarded with blank stares. Of course, the service guys said that there was no discernible problem and that, somehow, this anomaly was due to the car not being "broken in," and would improve or go away after 1500 miles. Also, they said that measuring fuel mileage was not an exact science and that my expectations were too high for the meters' accuracy.
As an engineer, I am baffled as to how an mpg meter can possibly profit from learning my driving habits over 1500 miles. If it doesn't actually measure fuel consumption, what does it measure and what is the correlation? If it does measure fuel consumption, then why would its accuracy improve over time? Even as a rough estimate, a meter that exhibits 25% or more of error either has a design flaw or is broken (mis-adjusted). I called Honda Customer Care, but, though they were unable to tell me how the meter worked or why it might "get better" after 1500 miles, they stuck to the party line about the mysterious improving meter.
There is no mention of a break-in accuracy period for the mpg meter in any of the manuals. They couldn't find anything in any of their manuals either.
Anyone else experience a hugely optimistic meter in their 2009? You can bet your booties that they would be all over this problem if their meter was 25% pessimistic!
1st fill 192 miles, 4.98g = 38.55mpg, Computer said 43.2. 4.65 discrepancy
2nd fill 244 miles, 7.38g = 33mpg. Computer said 38.1. 5.1 discrepancy
3rd fill 308 miles, 8.86g = 34.8mpg. Computer said 37.4 2.6 discrepancy
I too am perplexed by the computer discrepency but I'm not seeing 10mgp difference. I wonder if the fact the you're filling after on 50 miles has some impact on this. My wife, who doesn't fret about these things as much, say's the computer will get better over time. I can't understand why it would change but that doesn't mean in won't. My previous vehicle-a Dodge- computer was within 1-2mpg. 5-10 or more seems like a lot, no matter how it measures.
BTW...my last manually calculated MPG for my '07 Sport Auto was 36.2mpg mosly highway with suburb driving. I've found (like most cars) that keeping the speed 65mph or less on the highway as compared to driving between 65-70 mph improves my MPG by 2-3mpg in my mixed highway/suburb driving.
Thanks!
I guess we'll have to see if this reconciles itself in 650 miles when I hit the magic 1,500 mark. It's funny, if the meter didn't exist, I'd be happy pulling 33 in mixed conditions... Now I just feel like I'm getting jipped.