I bought my Sport MT in March, and have about 4400 miles on it. My work commute is 12 miles each way on the Interstate, where I travel at about 65 to 75 mph. I notice that when I'm in 5th gear the gear shift vibrates when I accelerate. If I take my foot off, it stops, but put my foot back on and it starts - it makes a really annoying buzzing sound that I normally don't notice if I've got music turned on loud enough to mask it. But if I'm driving in relative quiet, there it is, totally annoying. I can see the shift actually move as I take my foot on and off the accelerator.
Anyone else experience this problem? It seems noticeable only in 5th gear.
I'm still wondering if anyone with a manual transmission is experience gear shift vibration and rattling in fifth gear at highway speeds. I took my Fit into the dealer yesterday to get it checked out (when I made the appointment the guy seemed to think it might be transmission related), but after waiting for two hours (!) they said the wheels were out of balance, they balanced them and rotated, the Tech drove it and all was fine.
I got in, only to see he'd only driven .4 miles (some test drive!) and the gear shift still rattles in fifth at highway speeds. How can you get up to 70 mph in .4 miles in a commercial district with a four lane divided road?
I called the dealer when I got home, told them it's still making the noise, it's not fixed, I knew it wasn't the wheels being out of balance (I would have known if the wheels had been out of balance), I appreciate the free balancing/rotation, but now what do I do? And he says I should go back. Should I bother?
The noise will only be an issue on a long highway road trip, with no music playing. And then, of course, it will drive me insane. Otherwise, it's not an impediment, nor a hazard. What should I do? Does anyone else have this issue?
I'm still wondering if anyone with a manual transmission is experience gear shift vibration and rattling in fifth gear at highway speeds.
I drove 260 miles yesterday averaging 70mph in my Sport 5spd manual and I did not experience any vibrating/rattling sound coming from 5th gear.
Have they checked the actual stick shift to see if a piece is loose? Unscrew the shift ball and remove the plastic piece to see what is causing the vibration/rattle.
I just brought my 2008 honda fit to dealership for the same problem/noise. They already knew what exactly was wrong. In fact, i was second customer who had same problem with 2008 fit.
One of the bracket near firewall is too close to cooling wiring. It tends to make noise at high speed and/or accel. They moved the bracket little bit and no more noise.
Hey, thanks, afit2008, this definitely helps! I wonder if I should go back to the same dealership, with this forum post printed out (or just mention it), or try a whole new dealer. I can't believe they sent me away after claiming it was the wheels being out of balance.
I belive we all having the same problem, i asked the service deparment about that problem. figured it was becauce we have shape of the car, when u rolled back windown down. the winds blow into ur back trunk and it's becomes like tornado rolls inside from ur back car to the front. btw.. I bought a Honda Fit Auto Sport on May 2007, the reason i bought this car is because it said 31/37 mpg on sticker, but it only goes around 20mpg,1/2highway/city. i start calling up the dealer ask them what's wrong. they told it's a brand new car, it need times before it breaks in. they tell me to wait. i waited until 1700 miles, it doesn't seem any better, i finally bought it to honda to check what's wrong. they checked the car they told it has nothing wrong with the car. it just because it's summer, air conditions and stereo can cause it getting less MPG. so i test it with everything off. NO AC, NO TEREO, NO WIPERS, NO LIGHTS, samething. i called the manufactory. they told me i should have wait a little more, they told me after the first oil change it would get better. on 3500miles bought it to oil chance and service. i told the guy that my car getting bad milage. they told me i have to leave for more than a week to check. and they not guaranteed they will find problems. and since they dont think there's a problem, they wont provide the loaner car. i been contacting Honda Dealer, service, even honda main company. they wont see to help anything.. HELP>>>
I wanted to thank you on how to change the Cabin filter. Took me less then 5 minutes. The old one was dirty so it needed changing. I now have 15,100 miles on my FIT. I love it more and more each day..
I just changed the oil on my wife's fit. Used a full Syn. She noticed that her gas mileage went down significantly. I told her it was a coincidence. I put in low mileage oil. 5w-30. It's a coincidence, right?
in reading up a bit, I've found the 30 can lower MPG, but only by 1.5%. additionally the jury seems to be out which viscosity is better for the engine overall. Opinions?
Just bought a 2008 orange Sport Fit. Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty adamant about using their" Honda premium grade 5W20, displaying THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)". Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the dealer every time? Thx for any advice...
Just bought a 2008 orange Sport Fit. Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty adamant using their" premium grade 5W20, displaying THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)". Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the dealer every time? Thx for any advice...
While the glove box is open and if you look on the sides, you'll notice that the glove box is held in by a spongy block/stopper. I usually just press the sides while pulling gently to let the stopper through. The glove box just unlatches so you can see behind it. It doesn't actually come off.
I don't have a fit yet but I think I might be able to give you a good answer to Oil Viscosity.
~This is not bearing in mind extreme weather conditions~
The newer the car (lower mileage) the thinner the oil you want. It has to do with correct oil pressure and protectionswithin the Piston/Cyclinder.
A newer engine has less room between the piston and cyclinder wall. A thicker oil will not squeeze effectively into the small gap and therefore not protect your components as effectively as a thinner oil.
As the engine ages normal wear and tear widen the gap between pitson and cyclinder and therefore a thicker oil is necessary to 1.) Properly Protect and 2.) Maintain Proper Oil Pressure.
So at that point you begin increasing the thickness of the oil, i.e. 5W20, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50, etc.
Not sure how or why you would be getting better gas mileage with a thicker oil but I believe engine life is more important than gas mileage. If the car is not worned down quickly due to racing, long change intervals, overheating etc. I have always heard around 75K is the time to jump up to the 2nd Tier, accroding to what you beginning Viscosity is. I don't know of any cars starting above 5W20 from go but assume some are out there, mayb trucks/vans, not sure.
I think there are a lot of myths regarding oil that are out there and it takes quite awhile to understadn it since most of us are not engine builders/lab scientists or engineers working with it.
Good luck. There is alos much debate between Petrol vs. Synth Oil. My only recommmendation on that is do not follow the Synth oil change interval. I would not exceed you manufacturers recommendation. And if you change your own oil I would get familiar with the timing based on color/smell.
Anyone feel free to correct me on anything I wrote. I am not an expert.
I'm guessing the Fit is an Inline Engine which makes me think it would be a chain and not a belt. Timing Belts a re usually for "Vee" engines, V6, V8, etc.
I think chains are better. They are easier to replace and replaced less often. Chains take longer to stretch than a rubber belt. The only downside is a chain is more expesive than a rubber belt.
I went to the Honda dealership to get my 30,000 mile check-up. They said it would cost $245. I looked in the Owner's Manual to see what the 30,000 mile check-up covered. Not much listed in the manual. Anyway, on my odometer the code said B 1,2. So, that means oil change, tires rotated, air filter and cabin filter changed. It costs me about $80 for an oil change and tire rotation....so why are they charging an additional $165?
I asked the Service Manager how much an air filter costs.....$20, how much to install...no charge. Cabin filter.......$136!!! WHAT? I told him to change the air filter but not the cabin filter.
I went on-line and found a cabin filter for $20. When I picked up my Fit, I asked the Service Manager how much the cabin filter would cost......$60. I asked him why it was so much more expensive than on-line. He said he didn't know. He said if it was an after market part it wouldn't fit. Which I really question.
Here is a link for the 07 Fit. You will need to scroll down to the maintenance section. The image is not yet available but you will find the cabin filter description. It is listing for $18.09 http://www.handa-accessories.com/fit07.html
If you are looking for Genuine Honda parts buy it here. They usually provide instructions as well through this site but for some reason they are not listing it with this Cabin Filter. You may need to check your owner manual or a service manual for the instructions. Or look on-line. I am sure instructions are out there for free somewhere.
I just went over 30k, and I too had the B12 message. I ordered the air and cabin filters from H and A above, and installed them myself in about 3 minutes. The air filter is really easy...just three or four clips holding the plastic case in place.
It seems like most people are ok with trusting the maintnenance minder as to timing of oil changes. However, I am not sure how to handle the "minder" if I change the oil earlier than recommended. If I regularly re-set after an oil change that when I am only at 40% on the minder, is it going to tell me to get a major tuneup at 45,000 miles? The last Honda I owned pre-dated the "minder" so I am not quote sure how to treat it if I choose to change out oil more than every 7-10K miles.
I do the majority of my own work. And for what I cannot or will not do I have a personal mechanic who is more trustworthy than a dealer. His business name is Budget Transmission. His name is Mike. Let him know Jesse from Motorcarzdirect referrred you. Her is a block away from the Pyramid in Miramar. Aside from myself, Mike and one other friend I don't trust people with my car. Most people want to have a dealer do all their work while still under warranty, which is understandable, for that I would just go to whichever one is closest. But if you keep the car after warranty I would stop going to the dealer and go to Mike. Good luck on finding a reliable, trustworthy, repair shop.
I bought the Element locking gas cap for the 2007 Fit but found that the outside of the cap would turn freely even after I locked the gas cap. Can anybody who has installed the new locking gas cap tell me if this normal and the center part of the locking gas cap is locked tightly in such case ?
I don't have a locking gas cap but that sounds like the way one should work. The idea is that when it's locked, nobody but the key holder should be able to get it off, so locking it lets the outside of the cap turn free and not let anyone take the cap off.
The locking gas caps are made so they rotate freely (when installed) in the counter-clockwise direction unless the key is inserted and turned. In the clock-wise direction, they click when turned beyond that needed to secure the cap. Save some money and buy the Stant locking gas cap #11507 at Advance Auto Parts for about $13. It works great in my 2008 Fit Sport and much less than the Honda version.
Thanks a lot for the confirmation. Unfortunately I have already bought the Element gas cap otherwise I would have bought the Stan version. I guess if it is not sealed properly when locked I would have the warning light on the dash.
I've had my Fit Sport Automatic for less than a week and love it. The only complaint I have is the lack of a locking gas cap. So I went to San Francisco Honda to purchase the Element locking gas cap and was told by the parts mgr that "Honda" doesn't want the existing gas cap removed, it has to be cut off etc. I left without buying one. If the Element cap truly fits the Fit, I guess I'll buy one online.
Can you clarify? I am trying to do this myself since my mechanic is charging $50 dollars for labor to do mine. It is not as expensive as most others but if it is something I can do in 5 minutes.
With the glove box open I see the left rubber but the right is slightly hidden. Do you pull the side of the plastic box inward --> <-- while pulling the box out towards you? I do not not know how much force to use.
I do not have a Fit. But on my '07 Accord you have to use a small amount of force to get the "bar" out of place. In my car it is a snap on piece. Once it is unsnapped the glove box will swing down freely and hang in place giving you access to the filter. I'm guessing they probably use a similar design for the Fit. Hopefully ~~~kagedude~~~ can give you insight to clarify this.
Great question. I am thinking that certain parts of the minder are based off of a monitoring system and other aspects are based on intervals. Example, Oil changes are set according to things like engine temp, total rpms, etc. to determine when oil has lost its usefulnes. The code to also replace the filter when changin oil is set to everything other oil change. I would guess if the timing of the maintenance to be handled can be scheduled according to a computer monitoring system and also under a more classic interval type schedule than I would trust the minder.
Even if the "45K Major" maintenance comes early, let's say 36K or whatever, and the minder was somehow not taking into consideration your early changes of oil in my opinion more maitneneace more often has never hurt anything. Maybe the pocket a little but if your keeping your car forever it shouldn't be a big deal either way.
I would ask a dealer to try and give you insight on this.
With the glove box open I see the left rubber but the right is slightly hidden. Do you pull the side of the plastic box inward -->
Correct. I usually push the sides of the plastic box inward --> <-- while pulling the glove box down. I just use enough force to let the rubber stoppers through.
I can't seem to get the air filter cover off after undoing the clips. Does the cover come off with the rubber accordion tube or does the tube stay attached? Is there a special trick for getting the cover and tube separated? I have tried using various pliers for separating the two, but the air filter cover hardly budges.
The accordion tube stays attached to the car. You undo the clips and pull the hood straight up. There is a small part of the hood that extends into the accordion part.
Some grease and dirt may have "sealed" it shut..don't be afraid to use a little force.
I have gotten even less confident in the accuracy of the "minder." I have put 400 miles on the car - almost all city driving with lots of hills -- and the oil life indicator is still at 100%. So apparently 8000 miles of hard city mileage still isn't enough to warrant an oil change. I just am not sure I trust this thing. So.... is there any compelling reason NOT to change my oil after the first 500 - 600 miles as I would have done if there were not a tool on the dashboard telling me not to?
Good point. I have my own curiosity to the legitimacy of a maintenance minder. I still use the quality fo rthe oil when I change it to determine how quickly it is breaking down, color, smell, texture... To add to your doubts the Cost of Maintenance has become a new factor in a new vehicle purchase. So part of it could be an advertising ploy. "Buy us because you'lkl change your oil less." That's my cynical side coming out. Most cars are getting more mileage out of an oil change becasue our engines are getting better. I also don't think companies whose #1 selling point is reliability would shoot themselves in the foot for large sales that could only last 5-10 years. That's when it would be obvious that longer oil changes are a mistake.
I would always err on the side of caution and change more often if you are concerned about it. Also I am not sure where you are getting the 8000 mile number from.
And, YES!!!, if it is your first oil change wait until the minder has you change the oil. New cars have an oil additive put in the original factory fill. It is a chemical which grabs small metal deposits and debris from the engine scoring itself and creating all of its grooves. You will risk damaging your engine if you change it too soon. There is a lot of forums and postings on this topic which can explain it in greater detail.
I wanted to share some info about Fit motor oil and filters. First of all, I have only 13,000 km (8,000 miles) on my fit. The 15% oil remaining came on around 5500 miles. I took it in (the first oil change is free in Canada) and dropped off 4 qt of Quaker State 5W20 full synthetic oil and a genuine Honda filter. (Believe it or not, the filter is not required to be changed according to the manual) That was fine and the dealer changed the oil and the filter for me.
I drove off and was happy but since I was an AMSOIL Dealer, I went onto the Amsoil website and looked up their recommended oil for the Fit. I was surprised to find that they recommended Amsoil 0W20 to replace the 5w20 weight. I ordered a case of it and some Amsoil Eao filters which are very good by the way. I know how good these filters are from using them in my F-350 Ford turbo diesel. This is the only filter that will keep the oil clean for 4500 miles before it darkens noticeably. The reason is that it filters down to 15 microns absolute which surpasses all other canister type filters. My freshly changed oil had 90% remaining but I figured, why not, and changed it out to the Amsoil 0w20 and the Eao filter.
What I have noticed with this 0w20 oil is that there is a very light but noticeable buzzing noise under acceleration. This definitely a mechanical noise and it only shows up under moderate to heavy accelleration. I think that this oil is not cushioning adequately and hence the buzzing. I am going to switch it out back to the 5w20 again and will report back if the noise changes, or not. Meanwhile, I CANNOT RECOMMEND THIS OIL UNTIL FURTHER TESTING!
The filter though appears to be doing its job and the oil is very clean. I will say that the engine is performing very well now and my mileage even in mid winter is usually above 15 km per liter of regular fuel (no ethanol). The power just keeps getting better with racking up the miles and I do not spare the engine at all for break in. I am a firm believer in the "Break it in just like you will run it" concept, keeping the cylinder pressure up as much as possible.
My techniques for fuel savings are to run it through First, and Second gear to 30 mph then shift right into Fifth gear and drive around town in Fifth whenever possible. This runs about 1500 RPM most of the time and is quite smooth on my Fit. The other thing I do, is to shutdown the engine during long traffic light stops. Consider that your mileage is ZERO while sitting there idling. In the Hybrids, the engine automatically shuts down any time you are stopped, and automatically starts when you accelerate away from the light. This technique only makes sense on the long duration red lights that seem to be popping up everywhere now.
One of these days I will try to run on the highway at 60 mph instead of 70 or 75 and see what the difference is for mileage. But first I will finish the break-in process and keep the power up.
Mine had the same problem when I picked it up; the salesman said that it had to be re-set by the service department for free and that they would do it the next day. Next day I go down and they tell me I will have to leave it for 3 days! So I left and checked the tire pressures with a gauge. They were all at 38 psi or so (after driving 10 miles) so I dropped them to 35, restarted the car and the TPMS light turned off and has stayed off. I am not sure why the TPMS is so sensitive to being over-pressured -- underpressured is a problem but I like to keep them firm and would leave the tires at 38 or so if it weren't for the idiot light.
Do you know what the chemical/additive is called that they add for the first fill at the factory? I'm not doubting you, just curious as I had not heard of that before -- I thought all cars needed an oil change after the first 500-1000 miles and letting it go so many miles just feels wrong somehow. Is that additive something that would have any use later in the car's life, and could owners purchase it?
As for the 8000 mile figure, I thought that the minder counted at 5% intervals, and that if 400 is less than 5% of the life then the life = 8000 or more. But the minder went to 90% between 500 and 600 and I never saw a 95% figure, so maybe it is set to 10% intervals....
I will try to trust in the manual and leave that original oil in there for until the minder calls for more. Thanks for the info.
Mine went down 10% at a time slowly over about a year, then suddenly during the last 500 miles went down by 5% at a time rather quickly for the last 20%.
Hi Afit2008, I'm experiencing the same problem that you had while in 5th gear and accelerating. I brought it into my dealer and they said they haven't seen any bulletins on it.
Can I ask which dealership you went to have your problem fixed? I'd like to contact them and find out exactly what the fix is so I can have my car running 'quiet' again. Thanks in advance Afit2008 D.
I have gotten even less confident in the accuracy of the "minder." I have put 400 miles on the car - almost all city driving with lots of hills -- and the oil life indicator is still at 100%. So apparently 8000 miles of hard city mileage still isn't enough to warrant an oil change. I just am not sure I trust this thing. So.... is there any compelling reason NOT to change my oil after the first 500 - 600 miles as I would have done if there were not a tool on the dashboard telling me not to?
I believe the maintenance minder strictly goes by mileage. My 07 Honda Fit now has 56K miles and has dropped to 15% when its nearing the 6K miles mark. Its consistently done this the last 9 oil changes.
The older maintenance minder or whatever it was called which was with past Hondas (the one that has three colors and switches to yellow and then red) was based strictly on the mileage driven and tied to the manufacturer's recommended maintenance interval. The current Maintenance Minder, on the other hand, reads not only the mileage driven but also takes the internal driving conditions (e.g., RPM and engine temperature) into consideration. With all things equal, the percentage figure should drop more rapidly by not ever shifting your car above the third gear than driving normally, for example.
The older maintenance minder or whatever it was called which was with past Hondas (the one that has three colors and switches to yellow and then red) was based strictly on the mileage driven and tied to the manufacturer's recommended maintenance interval. The current Maintenance Minder, on the other hand, reads not only the mileage driven but also takes the internal driving conditions (e.g., RPM and engine temperature) into consideration. With all things equal, the percentage figure should drop more rapidly by not ever shifting your car above the third gear than driving normally, for example.
I tried to research the current maintenance minder but didn't see any tech writing if it really does do other things to affect the oil change interval. Maybe it checks for the other maintenance items like spark plugs, etc?
I have to confirm that the oil interval is by mileage (6K) for my Fit at least. Checked my service records and they are in intervals of 6k miles.
My first 8 oil changes, I was driving 90% hwy. Maintenance minder comes on around 6k miles. Avg oil change interval was every 2 mos.
Just got my last oil change, I drove approx 60% city/ 40% hwy. My maintenance minder still came on around 6K miles but after 3 mos.
I looked this up by going to http://www.edmunds.com ... Tips&Advice ... Maintenance Costs, then entering 2007 Fit and other info. Here're just the key items:
The oil change indicator is smarter than using just mileage. My daughter's Fit oil change indicator came on at about 6000 miles, which made more sense than 10000 miles since my daughter does a lot of short city trips. Perhaps other indicators will occur sooner than Edmunds forecasts given harsher driving conditions. But the Edmunds forecast gives a good idea of when maintenance will be needed.
The Maintenance Minder on my Fit MT came on for its first oil change at less than 5,000 miles. I believe it was 4,800+. And I don't do city driving at all, but I have been zooming back and forth across highways at 80 mph a lot lately.
My Fit sport is at 59K miles and the engine purrs as it was when it was new. I'm definitely not changing the spark-plugs and will follow Honda's recommendation.
I do need to start shopping for new tires. I'm still on the original Dunlops and doing the penny test, its now on Lincoln's mid-hair.
I heard from an Accord owner that the maintenance minder can be reset by pushing the trip button for 5-10 sec while on the oil minder. It will go back to zero. If it is mileage independent, then it should correct itself from 100% to whatever the level was before right?
Comments
Anyone else experience this problem? It seems noticeable only in 5th gear.
I'm still wondering if anyone with a manual transmission is experience gear shift vibration and rattling in fifth gear at highway speeds. I took my Fit into the dealer yesterday to get it checked out (when I made the appointment the guy seemed to think it might be transmission related), but after waiting for two hours (!) they said the wheels were out of balance, they balanced them and rotated, the Tech drove it and all was fine.
I got in, only to see he'd only driven .4 miles (some test drive!) and the gear shift still rattles in fifth at highway speeds. How can you get up to 70 mph in .4 miles in a commercial district with a four lane divided road?
I called the dealer when I got home, told them it's still making the noise, it's not fixed, I knew it wasn't the wheels being out of balance (I would have known if the wheels had been out of balance), I appreciate the free balancing/rotation, but now what do I do? And he says I should go back. Should I bother?
The noise will only be an issue on a long highway road trip, with no music playing. And then, of course, it will drive me insane. Otherwise, it's not an impediment, nor a hazard. What should I do? Does anyone else have this issue?
I drove 260 miles yesterday averaging 70mph in my Sport 5spd manual and I did not experience any vibrating/rattling sound coming from 5th gear.
Have they checked the actual stick shift to see if a piece is loose? Unscrew the shift ball and remove the plastic piece to see what is causing the vibration/rattle.
One of the bracket near firewall is too close to cooling wiring. It tends to make noise at high speed and/or accel. They moved the bracket little bit and no more noise.
hope this helps...
btw.. I bought a Honda Fit Auto Sport on May 2007, the reason i bought this car is because it said 31/37 mpg on sticker, but it only goes around 20mpg,1/2highway/city. i start calling up the dealer ask them what's wrong. they told it's a brand new car, it need times before it breaks in. they tell me to wait. i waited until 1700 miles, it doesn't seem any better, i finally bought it to honda to check what's wrong. they checked the car they told it has nothing wrong with the car. it just because it's summer, air conditions and stereo can cause it getting less MPG. so i test it with everything off. NO AC, NO TEREO, NO WIPERS, NO LIGHTS, samething. i called the manufactory. they told me i should have wait a little more, they told me after the first oil change it would get better. on 3500miles bought it to oil chance and service. i told the guy that my car getting bad milage. they told me i have to leave for more than a week to check. and they not guaranteed they will find problems. and since they dont think there's a problem, they wont provide the loaner car. i been contacting Honda Dealer, service, even honda main company. they wont see to help anything.. HELP>>>
Opinions?
Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty
adamant about using their" Honda premium grade 5W20, displaying THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)".
Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the
dealer every time?
Thx for any advice...
Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty
adamant using their" premium grade 5W20, displaying
THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)".
Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the
dealer every time?
Thx for any advice...
When I arrived home I checked the tire pressures which were: 42,38,40,46. This was after waiting 1.5 hrs for the dealer to prep the car!
Anybody know how to reset the warning light so I don't have to drive 130 miles (RT) to the dealer? Thanks in advance!!
Hope that helps.
~This is not bearing in mind extreme weather conditions~
The newer the car (lower mileage) the thinner the oil you want. It has to do with correct oil pressure and protectionswithin the Piston/Cyclinder.
A newer engine has less room between the piston and cyclinder wall. A thicker oil will not squeeze effectively into the small gap and therefore not protect your components as effectively as a thinner oil.
As the engine ages normal wear and tear widen the gap between pitson and cyclinder and therefore a thicker oil is necessary to 1.) Properly Protect and 2.) Maintain Proper Oil Pressure.
So at that point you begin increasing the thickness of the oil, i.e. 5W20, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50, etc.
Not sure how or why you would be getting better gas mileage with a thicker oil but I believe engine life is more important than gas mileage. If the car is not worned down quickly due to racing, long change intervals, overheating etc. I have always heard around 75K is the time to jump up to the 2nd Tier, accroding to what you beginning Viscosity is. I don't know of any cars starting above 5W20 from go but assume some are out there, mayb trucks/vans, not sure.
I think there are a lot of myths regarding oil that are out there and it takes quite awhile to understadn it since most of us are not engine builders/lab scientists or engineers working with it.
Good luck. There is alos much debate between Petrol vs. Synth Oil. My only recommmendation on that is do not follow the Synth oil change interval. I would not exceed you manufacturers recommendation. And if you change your own oil I would get familiar with the timing based on color/smell.
Anyone feel free to correct me on anything I wrote. I am not an expert.
I think chains are better. They are easier to replace and replaced less often. Chains take longer to stretch than a rubber belt. The only downside is a chain is more expesive than a rubber belt.
So, that means oil change, tires rotated, air filter and cabin filter changed. It costs me about $80 for an oil change and tire rotation....so why are they charging an additional $165?
I asked the Service Manager how much an air filter costs.....$20, how much to install...no charge. Cabin filter.......$136!!! WHAT? I told him to change the air filter but not the cabin filter.
I went on-line and found a cabin filter for $20. When I picked up my Fit, I asked the Service Manager how much the cabin filter would cost......$60. I asked him why it was so much more expensive than on-line. He said he didn't know. He said if it was an after market part it wouldn't fit. Which I really question.
Any thoughts or insights?
Thanks,
Suzecruise
Here is a link for the 07 Fit. You will need to scroll down to the maintenance section. The image is not yet available but you will find the cabin filter description. It is listing for $18.09 http://www.handa-accessories.com/fit07.html
If you are looking for Genuine Honda parts buy it here. They usually provide instructions as well through this site but for some reason they are not listing it with this Cabin Filter. You may need to check your owner manual or a service manual for the instructions. Or look on-line. I am sure instructions are out there for free somewhere.
Hope this helps.
Suzecruise
Thanks.
That make sense?
Thanks again and Happy New Year to you.
With the glove box open I see the left rubber but the right is slightly hidden. Do you pull the side of the plastic box inward --> <-- while pulling the box out towards you? I do not not know how much force to use.
Even if the "45K Major" maintenance comes early, let's say 36K or whatever, and the minder was somehow not taking into consideration your early changes of oil in my opinion more maitneneace more often has never hurt anything. Maybe the pocket a little but if your keeping your car forever it shouldn't be a big deal either way.
I would ask a dealer to try and give you insight on this.
Correct. I usually push the sides of the plastic box inward --> <-- while pulling the glove box down. I just use enough force to let the rubber stoppers through.
Thanks for your help!
Some grease and dirt may have "sealed" it shut..don't be afraid to use a little force.
I would always err on the side of caution and change more often if you are concerned about it. Also I am not sure where you are getting the 8000 mile number from.
And, YES!!!, if it is your first oil change wait until the minder has you change the oil. New cars have an oil additive put in the original factory fill. It is a chemical which grabs small metal deposits and debris from the engine scoring itself and creating all of its grooves. You will risk damaging your engine if you change it too soon. There is a lot of forums and postings on this topic which can explain it in greater detail.
First of all, I have only 13,000 km (8,000 miles) on my fit. The 15% oil remaining came on around 5500 miles. I took it in (the first oil change is free in Canada) and dropped off 4 qt of Quaker State 5W20 full synthetic oil and a genuine Honda filter. (Believe it or not, the filter is not required to be changed according to the manual) That was fine and the dealer changed the oil and the filter for me.
I drove off and was happy but since I was an AMSOIL Dealer, I went onto the Amsoil website and looked up their recommended oil for the Fit. I was surprised to find that they recommended Amsoil 0W20 to replace the 5w20 weight. I ordered a case of it and some Amsoil Eao filters which are very good by the way. I know how good these filters are from using them in my F-350 Ford turbo diesel. This is the only filter that will keep the oil clean for 4500 miles before it darkens noticeably. The reason is that it filters down to 15 microns absolute which surpasses all other canister type filters. My freshly changed oil had 90% remaining but I figured, why not, and changed it out to the Amsoil 0w20 and the Eao filter.
What I have noticed with this 0w20 oil is that there is a very light but noticeable buzzing noise under acceleration. This definitely a mechanical noise and it only shows up under moderate to heavy accelleration. I think that this oil is not cushioning adequately and hence the buzzing. I am going to switch it out back to the 5w20 again and will report back if the noise changes, or not. Meanwhile, I CANNOT RECOMMEND THIS OIL UNTIL FURTHER TESTING!
The filter though appears to be doing its job and the oil is very clean. I will say that the engine is performing very well now and my mileage even in mid winter is usually above 15 km per liter of regular fuel (no ethanol). The power just keeps getting better with racking up the miles and I do not spare the engine at all for break in. I am a firm believer in the "Break it in just like you will run it" concept, keeping the cylinder pressure up as much as possible.
My techniques for fuel savings are to run it through First, and Second gear to 30 mph then shift right into Fifth gear and drive around town in Fifth whenever possible. This runs about 1500 RPM most of the time and is quite smooth on my Fit. The other thing I do, is to shutdown the engine during long traffic light stops. Consider that your mileage is ZERO while sitting there idling. In the Hybrids, the engine automatically shuts down any time you are stopped, and automatically starts when you accelerate away from the light. This technique only makes sense on the long duration red lights that seem to be popping up everywhere now.
One of these days I will try to run on the highway at 60 mph instead of 70 or 75 and see what the difference is for mileage. But first I will finish the break-in process and keep the power up.
Cheers, Pete
As for the 8000 mile figure, I thought that the minder counted at 5% intervals, and that if 400 is less than 5% of the life then the life = 8000 or more. But the minder went to 90% between 500 and 600 and I never saw a 95% figure, so maybe it is set to 10% intervals....
I will try to trust in the manual and leave that original oil in there for until the minder calls for more. Thanks for the info.
I'm experiencing the same problem that you had while in 5th gear and accelerating. I brought it into my dealer and they said they haven't seen any bulletins on it.
Can I ask which dealership you went to have your problem fixed? I'd like to contact them and find out exactly what the fix is so I can have my car running 'quiet' again. Thanks in advance Afit2008
D.
I believe the maintenance minder strictly goes by mileage. My 07 Honda Fit now has 56K miles and has dropped to 15% when its nearing the 6K miles mark. Its consistently done this the last 9 oil changes.
Did it drop to 90% when it hit over 600 miles?
I tried to research the current maintenance minder but didn't see any tech writing if it really does do other things to affect the oil change interval. Maybe it checks for the other maintenance items like spark plugs, etc?
I have to confirm that the oil interval is by mileage (6K) for my Fit at least. Checked my service records and they are in intervals of 6k miles.
My first 8 oil changes, I was driving 90% hwy. Maintenance minder comes on around 6k miles. Avg oil change interval was every 2 mos.
Just got my last oil change, I drove approx 60% city/ 40% hwy. My maintenance minder still came on around 6K miles but after 3 mos.
A = replace engine oil (every 10000 miles)
B = replace engine filter; other checks (every 15000)
1 = rotate tires (every 10000)
2 = replace air and pollen filters (every 30000)
3 = replace transmission fluid (every 60000)
4 = replace spark plugs (every 60000)
5 = replace coolant (every 120000)
...also brake fluid, which has no code
The oil change indicator is smarter than using just mileage. My daughter's Fit oil change indicator came on at about 6000 miles, which made more sense than 10000 miles since my daughter does a lot of short city trips. Perhaps other indicators will occur sooner than Edmunds forecasts given harsher driving conditions. But the Edmunds forecast gives a good idea of when maintenance will be needed.
Jerry Fehribach
http://automobiles.honda.com/fit/specifications.aspx
My Fit sport is at 59K miles and the engine purrs as it was when it was new. I'm definitely not changing the spark-plugs and will follow Honda's recommendation.
I do need to start shopping for new tires. I'm still on the original Dunlops and doing the penny test, its now on Lincoln's mid-hair.
I heard from an Accord owner that the maintenance minder can be reset by pushing the trip button for 5-10 sec while on the oil minder. It will go back to zero. If it is mileage independent, then it should correct itself from 100% to whatever the level was before right?