Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair
This discussion is for finding answers to your Suburban issues.
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
0
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The second dealer (place of purchase)heard the knock and would only check to see if there was a "bulletin". When there was not any bulletins they said too this was "normal". In frustration I disconnect 1 plug at a time and isolated the knock to ONLY 1 cylinder. It was the 3rd one back from the front on the passenger side. I described it in about 2 or 3 TYPED sentences and took it back to where I purchased it for the second time. Low and behold it did exactly what I said and when I said it would. After 30 seconds the knock started for about 30 more seconds. The "TECH" assistance people at GM I am told think possibly it is a wrist pin. I think they are going to put in a pressed pin. It's been at the dealer since last Monday May 15, 2006. They really did not want to inconvience me as this was going to take a while. I told them please KEEP IT/FIX IT I have another car. They are sticking to there story though in that if this does not cure knock it probably could be piston slapping due to design and they will "NOT" fix that and well you have 36,000 miles of guaranty. GM wonders why people buy japanese vehicles??????????
Anyone ever experience this? Probable cause?
thanks
Zeke
Thanks!
John
John
I'd lean to this being a probl with the fuel pump. I have heard of several people with fuel pump probs that show up when feul is low, but prob tends to be very intermittent regardless of fuel level.
One question is do you hear the fuel pump come on every time you turn the key to on? I know the fuel pumps on Suburbans tend to by louder than most, so it should be easy for you to hear.
Other possibilities are the main relay for the fuel pump, and the fuel pressure regulator. Unfortunately these probs can be very difficult to diagnose, especially if it an electrical short in the main relay, or elsewhere.
I know personally, I just finally fixed my son's Accord that had a bad main relay. Unfortunately, I put a new fuel pump in first, as well as a pressure regulator.
until it expands with the heat.
If you have had no loss of power, then most likely not
an internal issue with the converter.
a/c. It is a temperature sensor.
Most likely the sleve bearings are dirty/going bad.
You could open it up and put a drop of very fine oil
on it, or replace motor. It is very small.
Lee
Stweve, Host
Maybe I can interest you in a 1970 DeVille convertible?
Steve, Host
I've towed a boat all those summers, and it didn't make a difference (in the Subby) whether in 2HI or 4WD.
The Denali's being AWD, developed the same problems, even with a different design front end.
After having to pay for the Subby 3 times, I promised myself to always get an extended warranty on future GM SUV's, and its paid off many times over.
I've spent $2500 a pop on the axle repairs (dealer), so your figure is pretty good...
As for towing in Full Time 4WD, it is not necessary. You would only need the traction if pulling out of a boat launch with slippery conditions. Otherwise, it only wastes gas. If you are towing off-road or in snow, I feel for you.
Dave
Thanks,
Daryl
Thanks
Anyway, I am looking for an effective way to fix this fun problem and I don't want to spend a ton. I am thinking about a rear disc brake conversion and getting better calipers for the front. Do any of you have experience with this and what did you do? Any other suggestions?
Thank you very much for your input.
There are brake conversion kits, that allow you to put on larger diameter front discs. I don't believe you can just put on rear discs, because the master cylinder output is proportional to its disc/drum design. You'd have to change it too with some aftermarket thing.
Towing my Mastercraft PS205, and subsequent X-Star, I'd go through brakes every 5k in the summers. Living in Tahoe is torture due to the mountain climbs. They front rotors would warp, and the rear drums get hot-spots that drove me crazy. The solution of course was to turn them, and when too thin, replace them. It was still cheaper than spending several grand on aftermarket brakes, considering I only keep these trucks a few years.
In any event, your talking thousands.... Is it worth it?
I've since bought an '07 GM, and the brakes are like night and day, compared to the '96 and '01 and '05 I had.
What could be causing this problem? :confuse:
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I had a '92 Suburban with over 130K miles and never replaced the fuel pump. However if you should decide to replace the pump $600 is way to much. Try this sight: http://www.auto-parts-wholesale.com/
They have a pump for your vehicle selling for just over $100. Can't be that much of a job to replace it.
We had the same problem with our 97 Burb. Although we took it to over 4 dealers and transmission places no one could figure it out. It became very expensive...our transmission went while on vacation 4 states away and then after fixing that they finally (after 7 months) realized the hard shifting was the shift solenoid. If there is a grinding it is the shift sensor on the transfer case - we ended up replacing all.
Good luck.