I'd get stainless regardless of where you live. Blacks rust the fastest...and chrome will even rust...regardless of what you do...
Chome plated stainless is new....and I would imagine it would be better?....but the outside still rusts?....most rust is an inside out thing though..
Solid Stainless is expensive...I know first hand...but I feel worth every penny. When I sell this truck...hell...I'm taking them with me for what I paid!
I have also been feeling what seems like a drag at idle and acceleration. Thought it might be just me, coming out of a '71 Chevy truck with a 350 and a 4 speed manual. At idle...500 rpm's...the truck pushes 3-4 mph top speed in drive, on a smooth level road. It feels like I'm pulling a trailer. Releasing the brake just doesn't get the push, I believe it should, from a stop. 19K on my 99 1500 ext. But once I reach mid range rpm's it seems to hit the power band.
Rear leafs just replaced, seems to have disguised the launch shutter. Not quite as detectable. But it is still there. I told them my 2 pc. drive shaft cocked side ways, so they made adjustments. Still slightly cocked...still slightly vibrating...enough to know something is not right.
Anyone else know what there idle speed averages in drive? Aftershocks gone with new rear leafs and new front shocks.
i've ordered a '00 ext. cab LS/5.3L loaded with all the goodies except leather seats. ordered on 3/16 and got tpw of 4/24. was at dealership today and saw 2 new 4 drs. and both had door handles on outside of rear doors, sorta looks like the Tundra. they look totally absurd. will mine come like this or is there a way to get the factory to exclude these from my order. my sales guy said it
was a new change in response to customer requests. he does'nt know if they'll be on mine or that if we can get the truck without them. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Just filled up for the first time today, ran 321 miles on 20.4 gallons, equates to 15.7 MPG. 5.3 engine, 3.42 rear, with 50/50 city/highway driving, nothing over 60 MPH. Should improve as motor loosens up. I realize that I will get some Cowpoke comments about the top speed so far, but it's my truck.....
My truck had the computer update from the factory. It has the latest update for the detonation. I also put a 180 degree thermostat from Hypertech in my truck.
I installed the TR6 plugs tonight (one range colder firing and copper core). Just from about 25 miles of driving, it seems to have rectified about 95% of the detonation. Two things still to consider to rectify fully.
1. I talked to the NGK tech today to get a recommended gap. He apparently has had tons of people contacting him of the exact situation and has also worked with numerous GM techs to rectify the detonation issue that almost all the new model 5.3l are having. He said the colder firing TR6's are pre-gapped at .039 and should not be gapped any wider than .049. He said that if it is only detontating under a load or in the Summer heat, go with the copper core replacement plug of the same temp range (TR55's), only decrease the gap to .050 instead of the stock .060. I told this guy that my truck detonates all the time, even when not under a load. He recommended trying the TR6's with a gap of .049 and then decrease to .045 if it still was pinging.
Even with the TR6's gapped at .049, my truck idles much much much smoother, has an "INCREASE" in power and acceleration, and almost entirely rid the ping. It even "sounds" smoother, no more uneven acceleration (almost like it is missing not firing evenly).
2. I think I will drive it a few hundred miles and if it still is pinging (after the computer has time to re-learn), I will decrease the gap to .045 and try that.
Even as it is, it was definately worth the $16 for plugs and an hour of my time.
I also found that the 5.3l has a compression of 9.5:1. The high output and heavy duty 350 that GM puts in the previous model 2500's has a compression of 9.4:1. The 5.3l has a smaller displacement, yet a higher compression. No wonder it is more prone to detonate on regular octane gas.
I know I'm just setting myself up for attacks - and typically I don't do this - just be quiet and they will eventually go away - but jumboballs has none - he is RED in disguise. He is being the same jerk in the Zaino forum and using the same lousy names. He even had the balls to tell them there that he was liked and appreciated in this channel. Have fun RED. And fire away - shame you have nothing useful to contribute.
By the way - so this post isn't totally wasted - my HPP III is at home, had a friend pick it up off my porch where UPS left it. Will work on the speedo settings this weekend.
That's really interesting. I hope putting them in wasn't too much of a struggle. Guess not if it only took an hour.
I believe I have a milder case, but Colorado thin atmosphere lowers combustion pressures, and our normal cooler/seasonal temperatures are a plus.
Still, I'll get a crackle at 1500 rpm when it's hot, under light load. Step into it hard, I think it reads the TPS and retards spark to prevent something truly harmful, detonation under a heavy load.
I think if possible, I would like to investigate using one colder heat range on a platinum plug. Of course, copper has superior heat dissipation, is a better conductor of heat, but the platinum has better resistance to corrosion, since it is higher up the galvanic scale. But that just reflects my desire to maintain the longevity of the advertised 100,000 mile life, whether true or not for me...I don't want to change plugs as often as you might...Kudos to you!
great name you have there. i'll never go away. i enjoy reading what you guys talk about. i know that i have nothing of interest to post so i am keeping quiet. as i said awhile back i'm not going to get involved in ribbin' anyone 'cause it only looks childish and it's boring to the ones that aren't involved. no, i'll just sit back and watch. i think i suggested something once that i thought was OK only to be called anal. yep, i've got to keep my mouth shut here. i'm not as smart as some of you guys. you guys know way more about these trucks than i ever will, maybe even GM as well. just look at the last few posts. Spark plugs and HPP111, now why can't GM see that these problems need to be addressed. oh, i know 'cause they probably don't have time to come here and learn from guys like you. their too busy building trucks that you aftermarket techs will repair anyway. alterntors and maybe power steering pumps, i'm sure these need more power too don't they? oh well i guess i'll have to wait until you guys get to those problems.
no, i'm keeping my mouth shut, unless i want to know something, and then i can ask Obyone or Blue.they do seem to know what their talking about, plus they have class.
Mr. Balls, unless you have something real important to talk about, watch yourself. some of these guys will cut you like an animal if they don't like your response. as far as zaino topic is concerned, i'm the one who put my foot in my mouth (as usual) so don't be to hard on 'em.
One piece of advise that you will thank me for later. Whatever header you decide to go with make sure that you get it with a ceramic coating and/or Jet-Hot coat on it. The primary purpose being to keep the heat from disapating into the engine area.
sorry for the typo's .....35%-40% is correct though! i know this is hard to believe and ofcourse its the maximum gains....... but never the less its possible. 15% from the headers, 10% from k&n, 15% from catback(depending on how its set up). more realistic would most likely be @30%(-). this is because the maximum gains were produced on finely-tuned test vehicles and under optimum conditions. not to say that you dont do the best you can to keep your vehicles in the best running condition that you can..... im just saying that everyday driving and other variables preclude your truck from performing the same way that the testing was performed
Its all about you, isnt it? Like a little puppy, smack its nose and comes back for more! Okay, hows this....you better check your truck, I thought I saw bird droppings in that pic, you know that can ruin your paint, right? LOL -scott
Someone in an earlier post mentioned their 2-piece driveshaft was cocked? My 2000 Ext. Cab has a one-piece aluminum driveshaft, thats about 9 inches in diameter. No launch shudder at all.
2000 Silveradp 1500 LS extended cab 4x2 short bed in Pewter (cloth graphite interior) with bucket seats, tape player, cast aluminum wheels.. love it!
I would definitely recommend my dealer.. Bobby Bramlett @ Covert Country in Taylor (near Austin, Texas). www.covertcountry.com He'll search the state to find what you want if they don't have it on the lot. And he's a real person! No slimy pushy car salesman attitude here! You can tell him I sent you if you like.
WT, Tell me more about this single piece 9 inch diameter drive shaft on your truck. I'm sure that my ext. cab is a 2-piece shaft of maybe 4 inch diameter max. There is a crossmember support between the front shaft and the rear shaft.
So far I've put about 500 miles an my Silverado and I've had no trouble with it. It's everything I wanted and expected. Here are some of the little things that I like and dislike about it.
Likes -Chime to notify you if you've been driving with your blinker on. I found out about this one day when I was going down a long exit ramp. -Message center(so far only Low Fuel and Security) -Engine hour meter -Spare tire hoist lock -Wiper fluid nozzles mounted on wipers Dislikes -Cup holders-worst I've seen -Cheap plastic latches on flip-out windows. Still the windows stay latched even with considerable pressure applied -Audio is anemic in bass range
The 4x4's have a one piece larger diameter driveshaft. The 2wd have a 2 piece smaller diameter driveshaft.
On another note. My truck is scheduled to be delivered today. Ordered it through my hometown dealer. Am going home tomorrow for the holiday so may as well pick up the truck too right? Or is it the other way around now?
Hey guys, I'm starting to count the weeks before I order my 01 Silverado. I love the pictures and the comments. I have settled on a 2 tone black / with pewter bottom Z71 short (composite) box, reg cab LS. I can't seem to make up my mind about the flares though. I love them in the solid colors and I want them, but the two tone colors seem a little awkward. Anybody with pics or comments on that?
OK, I'm not trying to be a jerk here, so don't take this wrong, but I think you are being a bit too optimistic about the power gains from those accessories. Just because K&N says 10%, headers say 15%, and cat back say 15%, doesn't mean you would get a net 40%, or even 30% power increase. Do you realize that 30% would be 85 HP at the flywheel? That is not likely to happen. If it worked that way we could all be driving 4000 HP Silverados if we had the cash. The more you modify the engine, the harder it is to reach the next gain. For example, lets say the muffler is the worst part of the exhaust system, (might actually be the stock manifolds, I don't know) you change the muffler, to a good performance one. Do you still think the headers are going to add another 15%? Not likely, diminishing returns starts to creep in. You already got rid of the terrible muffler, so the headers aren't going to make near as much of a difference as they would have with the stock muffler. It doesn't just add up like that. You have to watch the claims of these products too. Usually when they claim 15% increase in power, what it actually means is that somewhere along the RPM curve they gained 15%. That would rarely translate into a 15% peak power increase. Again, I'm not trying to attack you. I just want to point out that those claims are made to sell products. And while I am not saying they are lying, I am saying that it isn't always obvious from the ads what you should really expect to see in real world driving.
Todd, 2WD ext cabs have no transfer case..obviously...so they use a 2 piece driver shaft to take up the extra room.. ..9"???...My 3/4 ton drive shaft is huge...but I'd say about 6" in diameter?....better check again boss..
Crossfire,
2-tone with flares is awesome. Black with pewter flares/bottom looks real good....as does blue with pewter bottom/flares. Juts about all 2-tones with flares are cool..
Personal favorite is Burgandy with Gold bottom and flares. I went with all Black/black falres as an LT does not come in 2 tone. If they don't offer it by 2002...I will have it done custom...as I want the above combo bad next time..
Only problem is what leather do you get with Burgandy/brown?....has to be Oak...and the oak leather...is well.....horrible! An orange-make-ya-wanna-puke crime scene!
i agree on the diminishing returns bit..... however i didnt get my info from adds in the magazines!! as a matter of fact, i havent seen one in quite awhile. my info comes from a couple of buddies in San Antonio. they have a private speed shop and work with some of the drivers that come through there. i have access to a dyno thru them as well as a plethera of misc knowledge and facts. your probably right on the fact that im being optimistic, personally i wouldnt expect gains greater than 30%. and thats if i had them installed in SA. one other point, hp measured at the flywheel will be significantly different than hp measured on a dynamo ie:30% at the flywheel translates to @18%-20% at the rear. i realize that this helps validate your points(some of which i agree with), im just clarifying.
My Silverado/Sierra literature shows only the grays as the two two tone colors available from the factory. I've seen that color combo on the Tahoes/Yukons. Is it a dealer (bodyshop) request on the pickups? Or are people in other parts of the country being offered this two-tone option from the factory on the pickups?
Can you compare a tundra to a SILVERADO? Thats like comparing night and day. I dont get it. I was at a stop light by a toyota dealer and they are sooooo small. I dont know BUT HEY it had FLARES on it. hmmm maybe i should go test drive it.
Yesterday I saw a silver Silverado. This was not pewter, I know what pewter looks like. I see them everyday and my next door neighbor has a pewter sierra. This truck was brand new also, no plates on it yet. Are they now offering the silver of the past, or was this a custom aftermarket paint job on a new truck? If so, that bums me out because that is the color I really wanted.
Also, I have seen a 2500 4x4 4 door two tone. white with pewter. I did not believe it so I stopped and looked. 2500 emblem and 8 bolt aluminum wheels. Are two tone 3/4 tons being offered now or did this guy have it custom painted?
My salesman told me a new silver color like that of the past was going to be available for the 2001 model yr trucks maybe they are out a lil early like the door handles. Hope this helps you out
new outside rear door handles on the new 4DR Silverados? I might have to buy a 2000 4DR if this is a feature of the 2001 and they look too clunky. I wonder if you will still have to open the front door first before you can open the rear door.
If i was gonna get another truck id get black on top with grey on bottom i really think thats a good looking truck. Couldnt get the grey flares though. WOuld have to get black
Here in the Cleveland area it seemed that the dealers knew how to order only two colors. When I started my search I could only find pewter or black, almost no tutone were around unless it was black/pewter. Ryan your truck looks great! I went with the dark carmine red over pewter with the grey interior. No flares; I liked them when I first saw them but many of them didn't seem to fit right and I kind of like the cleaner look you get without them. I also got the trailering mirrors which are black instead of chrome and went with 265's blackwalls. I think the truck looks great! I swear that the dealer I wanted to get my truck from thinks everyone wants a split bench seat! I think he would order Corvettes with split bench and sliding rear window if he could! No variety! only buckets were in LTs.! I ordered mine elsewhere! Sorry it took so long to get back to you about your pictures but I've been out driving!
Now I need everyone to put on their thinking caps please....
It doesn't seem too likely that GM would offer 4 door handles if you still had to open the front doors to get the rear doors open, maybe I'm wrong, but it kind of defeats the purpose of having 4 exterior door handles. In order to open the doors simultaneously, that would mean that the doors couldn't overlap. GM would have to re-engineer the truck to have a B pillar, in order to have a place for the doors to seal against when they're closed. That would mean months of engineering, as well as strength/vibration/flexability and crash testing, re-tooling the factory to accomodate these design changes, re-training some employeees, etc. Millions of dollars.
Now, don't get me wrong, I know this is the same company that introduced the truck with 3 doors in 1999 just to re-engineer it 18 months later with 4 doors, but to make massive design changes AGAIN in a 2 year period, here's the kicker...to compete with the Tundra, a truck they're already outselling by far, doesn't seem too likely. I think GM would leave well enough alone in this case.
Someone is pulling our leg on this 4 door handle BS
For the vote of confidence. I might change my mind back and forth 30 more time before I order it though. I like the boldness of the flares, but Gotribe 1 has a point too about the "cleaner" look without them.
Hey everyone, I have found a 98 c1500 extended cab 5.0 v-8, 2 wheel drive. w/ 5000 miles. In what seems to be great shape. I have been reading the posts for some time about chevys as well as reviews. My question is- will this truck last me for 10 years, averaging 7000k per year? Some light hauling and a road trip from time to time. I take care of my vehicles, but never have had a chevy. What problems should I be on the lookout for other than the vibrations people have been talking about and fighting with Chevrolet if I do have problems?
The main problem with 1998 chevy trucks is the brakes. Drive a 2000 and test the brakes - then test a 1998. You will see a big difference in stopping power. I have both trucks and know first hand.
The 98 with the 5.7 (350) engine has good power, but the 5.3 (326) is faster.
When making your decision on a two tone truck, first ask yourself how long do you plan to keep it. If less than 5 years, go for it. If 10+, go with a solid color. Although two tone trucks look great the model year they are introduced, the two tone is also the tattletell of how old it is, kinda like a 50's hairdo. It can make a new truck look old, sooner than you think.
I see a few posts regarding the 2 pc. drive shaft in the 1500 ext. cabs. Has anyone noticed if their 2 pc. shaft appears crooked (side to side) at the carrier bearing? The dealer claims to have straightened it, but it is still obvious.
Are there different transmissions in the 4wd and 2wd? I am still feeling the launch shutter after rear leafs changed, but not as much. It is obviously not the fix and just a bandaid. Has anyone had a tranny replaced to fix the launch shutter?
I live in Florida and my 4.8 pings all the time. What about a colder plug. The dealer claims it to be normal noises. Almost sounds like an exhaust leak, actually it does stop when the truck body lifts up from the frame, like from a hump in the road. Could that be somehow closing a gap? I have also read of heat shield noise. More noticable on drivers side.
Comments
Chome plated stainless is new....and I would imagine it would be better?....but the outside still rusts?....most rust is an inside out thing though..
Solid Stainless is expensive...I know first hand...but I feel worth every penny. When I sell this truck...hell...I'm taking them with me for what I paid!
LOL
(Click for bigger pic)
Good Luck
- Tim
At idle...500 rpm's...the truck pushes 3-4 mph top speed in drive, on a smooth level road. It feels like I'm pulling a trailer. Releasing the brake just doesn't get the push, I believe it should, from a stop. 19K on my 99 1500 ext. But once I reach mid range rpm's it seems to hit the power band.
Rear leafs just replaced, seems to have disguised the launch shutter. Not quite as detectable. But it is still there. I told them my 2 pc. drive shaft cocked side ways, so they made adjustments. Still slightly cocked...still slightly vibrating...enough to know something is not right.
Anyone else know what there idle speed averages in drive?
Aftershocks gone with new rear leafs and new front shocks.
Keith
all the goodies except leather seats.
ordered on 3/16 and got tpw of 4/24.
was at dealership today and saw 2 new 4 drs. and
both had door handles on outside of rear doors,
sorta looks like the Tundra.
they look totally absurd. will mine come like
this or is there a way to get the factory to
exclude these from my order. my sales guy said it
was a new change in response to customer
requests.
he does'nt know if they'll be on mine or that if
we can get the truck without them.
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
jumbo
It has the latest update for the detonation. I also put a 180 degree thermostat from Hypertech in my truck.
I installed the TR6 plugs tonight (one range colder firing and copper core). Just from about 25 miles of driving, it seems to have rectified about 95% of the detonation. Two things still to consider to rectify fully.
1. I talked to the NGK tech today to get a recommended gap. He apparently has had tons of people contacting him of the exact situation and has also worked with numerous GM techs to rectify the detonation issue that almost all the new model 5.3l are having. He said the colder firing TR6's are pre-gapped at .039 and should not be gapped any wider than .049. He said that if it is only detontating under a load or in the Summer heat, go with the copper core replacement plug of the same temp range (TR55's), only decrease the gap to .050 instead of the stock .060.
I told this guy that my truck detonates all the time, even when not under a load. He recommended trying the TR6's with a gap of .049 and then decrease to .045 if it still was pinging.
Even with the TR6's gapped at .049, my truck idles much much much smoother, has an "INCREASE" in power and acceleration, and almost entirely rid the ping. It even "sounds" smoother, no more uneven acceleration (almost like it is missing not firing evenly).
2. I think I will drive it a few hundred miles and if it still is pinging (after the computer has time to re-learn), I will decrease the gap to .045 and try that.
Even as it is, it was definately worth the $16 for plugs and an hour of my time.
I also found that the 5.3l has a compression of 9.5:1. The high output and heavy duty 350 that GM puts in the previous model 2500's has a compression of 9.4:1. The 5.3l has a smaller displacement, yet a higher compression. No wonder it is more prone to detonate on regular octane gas.
By the way - so this post isn't totally wasted - my HPP III is at home, had a friend pick it up off my porch where UPS left it. Will work on the speedo settings this weekend.
I believe I have a milder case, but Colorado thin atmosphere lowers combustion pressures, and our normal cooler/seasonal temperatures are a plus.
Still, I'll get a crackle at 1500 rpm when it's hot, under light load. Step into it hard, I think it reads the TPS and retards spark to prevent something truly harmful, detonation under a heavy load.
I think if possible, I would like to investigate using one colder heat range on a platinum plug. Of course, copper has superior heat dissipation, is a better conductor of heat, but the platinum has better resistance to corrosion, since it is higher up the galvanic scale. But that just reflects my desire to maintain the longevity of the advertised 100,000 mile life, whether true or not for me...I don't want to change plugs as often as you might...Kudos to you!
enjoy reading what you guys talk about. i know
that i have nothing of interest to post so i am
keeping quiet. as i said awhile back i'm not
going to get involved in ribbin' anyone 'cause it
only looks childish and it's boring to the ones
that aren't involved. no, i'll just sit back and
watch. i think i suggested something once that i
thought was OK only to be called anal. yep, i've
got to keep my mouth shut here. i'm not as smart
as some of you guys. you guys know way more about
these trucks than i ever will, maybe even GM as
well. just look at the last few posts. Spark
plugs and HPP111, now why can't GM see that these
problems need to be addressed. oh, i know 'cause
they probably don't have time to come here and
learn from guys like you. their too busy building
trucks that you aftermarket techs will repair
anyway. alterntors and maybe power steering
pumps, i'm sure these need more power too don't
they? oh well i guess i'll have to wait until you
guys get to those problems.
no, i'm keeping my mouth shut, unless i want to
know something, and then i can ask Obyone or
Blue.they do seem to know what their talking
about, plus they have class.
Mr. Balls, unless you have something real
important to talk about, watch yourself. some of
these guys will cut you like an animal if they
don't like your response. as far as zaino topic
is concerned, i'm the one who put my foot in my
mouth (as usual) so don't be to hard on 'em.
...RED
This guy!! (Click for bigger pic)
All you have to do is remember that...and everything else he says makes sense!
He even got a line about him in Grumpy Old Men!
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Menace.wav
Good old Mikee..(Red)
Out there in California...Surrounded by Fruits!
Just ignore him....he has no life and nothing better to do with himself..
(You can see the well thought out post above of his....I rest my case..)
- Tim
yet. go back and read my last response in v-6 or
v-8.
...RED
Ryan
hahaha
more realistic would most likely be @30%(-). this is because the maximum gains were produced on finely-tuned test vehicles and under optimum conditions. not to say that you dont do the best you can to keep your vehicles in the best running condition that you can..... im just saying that everyday driving and other variables preclude your truck from performing the same way that the testing was performed
Okay, hows this....you better check your truck, I thought I saw bird droppings in that pic, you know that can ruin your paint, right? LOL -scott
Did the 99's have a 2-piece driveshaft?
-Todd
2000 Silveradp 1500 LS extended cab 4x2 short bed in Pewter (cloth graphite interior) with bucket seats, tape player, cast aluminum wheels.. love it!
I would definitely recommend my dealer.. Bobby Bramlett @ Covert Country in Taylor (near Austin, Texas). www.covertcountry.com He'll search the state to find what you want if they don't have it on the lot. And he's a real person! No slimy pushy car salesman attitude here! You can tell him I sent you if you like.
Meredith Thompson
(mcthomp@fnfi.com)
Tell me more about this single piece 9 inch diameter drive shaft on your truck. I'm sure that my ext. cab is a 2-piece shaft of maybe 4 inch diameter max. There is a crossmember support between the front shaft and the rear shaft.
Larry
Likes
-Chime to notify you if you've been driving with your blinker on. I found out about this one day when I was going down a long exit ramp.
-Message center(so far only Low Fuel and Security)
-Engine hour meter
-Spare tire hoist lock
-Wiper fluid nozzles mounted on wipers
Dislikes
-Cup holders-worst I've seen
-Cheap plastic latches on flip-out windows. Still the windows stay latched even with considerable pressure applied
-Audio is anemic in bass range
Overall I love my new truck.
On another note. My truck is scheduled to be delivered today. Ordered it through my hometown dealer. Am going home tomorrow for the holiday so may as well pick up the truck too right? Or is it the other way around now?
Was built in Pontiac, MI on Monday. Can't wait!!!
Kevin
Richard
I can't seem to make up my mind about the flares though. I love them in the solid colors and I want them, but the two tone colors seem a little awkward. Anybody with pics or comments on that?
2WD ext cabs have no transfer case..obviously...so they use a 2 piece driver shaft to take up the extra room..
..9"???...My 3/4 ton drive shaft is huge...but I'd say about 6" in diameter?....better check again boss..
Crossfire,
2-tone with flares is awesome. Black with pewter flares/bottom looks real good....as does blue with pewter bottom/flares.
Juts about all 2-tones with flares are cool..
Personal favorite is Burgandy with Gold bottom and flares. I went with all Black/black falres as an LT does not come in 2 tone. If they don't offer it by 2002...I will have it done custom...as I want the above combo bad next time..
Only problem is what leather do you get with Burgandy/brown?....has to be Oak...and the oak leather...is well.....horrible!
An orange-make-ya-wanna-puke crime scene!
Good Luck
Black/Pewter with pewter flares looks real good.
- Tim
- Tim
I'll check the 2500 vs 1500 driveshaft diameter next month when my 2500 shows up.
Mike L
99 Silverado 1500 4x4 Reg Cab 4.8L 5spd
00 Silverado 2500 4x4 Reg Cab 6.0L 5spd (TPW 4-24)
Deadhorse, Alaska 6-6-99
your probably right on the fact that im being optimistic, personally i wouldnt expect gains greater than 30%. and thats if i had them installed in SA. one other point, hp measured at the flywheel will be significantly different than hp measured on a dynamo ie:30% at the flywheel translates to @18%-20% at the rear. i realize that this helps validate your points(some of which i agree with), im just clarifying.
Ryan
Also, I have seen a 2500 4x4 4 door two tone. white with pewter. I did not believe it so I stopped and looked. 2500 emblem and 8 bolt aluminum wheels. Are two tone 3/4 tons being offered now or did this guy have it custom painted?
Ryan
Two tone 2500's have always been around...in LS format..
LT is what you can't get 2 tone in....1500 or 2500.
GRRRRRRR
- Tim
Black/Pewter
Blue/Pewter
Black/Gold
Black/Grey
Blue/Grey
White/Grey
Pewter/Grey
White/Gold
....er...just about every combo..
Pewter is not the only bottom color
I know I have seen Gold/grey..if not others as well..
Good Luck
- Tim
Ryan
It doesn't seem too likely that GM would offer 4 door handles if you still had to open the front doors to get the rear doors open, maybe I'm wrong, but it kind of defeats the purpose of having 4 exterior door handles.
In order to open the doors simultaneously, that would mean that the doors couldn't overlap. GM would have to re-engineer the truck to have a B pillar, in order to have a place for the doors to seal against when they're closed. That would mean months of engineering, as well as strength/vibration/flexability and crash testing, re-tooling the factory to accomodate these design changes, re-training some employeees, etc. Millions of dollars.
Now, don't get me wrong, I know this is the same company that introduced the truck with 3 doors in 1999 just to re-engineer it 18 months later with 4 doors, but to make massive design changes AGAIN in a 2 year period, here's the kicker...to compete with the Tundra, a truck they're already outselling by far, doesn't seem too likely. I think GM would leave well enough alone in this case.
Someone is pulling our leg on this 4 door handle BS
http://www-st.towson.edu/~plever1/lincoln/lincoln.html
Once you've had black ...
The only rear doors that I have seen with handles are the crew cabs.
10,000 miles on my '99 now. Time to change to Mobil One! (actually I only waited so I could use up my old oil).
Richard
The main problem with 1998 chevy trucks is the brakes. Drive a 2000 and test the brakes - then test a 1998. You will see a big difference in stopping power. I have both trucks and know first hand.
The 98 with the 5.7 (350) engine has good power, but the 5.3 (326) is faster.
Are there different transmissions in the 4wd and 2wd? I am still feeling the launch shutter after rear leafs changed, but not as much. It is obviously not the fix and just a bandaid. Has anyone had a tranny replaced to fix the launch shutter?
I live in Florida and my 4.8 pings all the time. What about a colder plug. The dealer claims it to be normal noises. Almost sounds like an exhaust leak, actually it does stop when the truck body lifts up from the frame, like from a hump in the road. Could that be somehow closing a gap? I have also read of heat shield noise. More noticable on drivers side.
Keith
Thanx rwagoner, I needed a laugh