Cadillac Deville: Problems & Solutions

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
edited March 2014 in Cadillac


  • mdrealtormdrealtor Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 DeVille. When making a right hand turn, I hear a knock when turning the wheel. I checked the TSB board and the problem was posted there so someone else has had this problem as well. I've had two Front End experts look at the car to no avail. Does anyone know a remedy for this? (also posted on Sedans Message Board)
  • raibeauxraibeaux Member Posts: 2
    Wondering if others are having this problem. I have an '01 Deville that gets GREAT milage, and is comfortable to sit in. I bought a new 2004 DHS that has seats hard as bricks, and the milage is absolutely horrible. Dealer says milage will improve around 6000 miles which sounds like hogwash to me (unless the cyl walls need the time to ream out ha). No fixes for the seats, but anyone know what's wrong with the milage? I'm wondering if the transmission has something to do with it. Thanks much.
  • garyegarye Member Posts: 1
    I own a "98 Concourse Deville, on three occassions I recieved a notice from my local dealer that it is due for service. Within three weeks, wierd things started going wrong with the car. Alerts and warnings about unrelated system failures started occurring, even the antenna suddenly failed to function. This is the third time this has happened after the dealer's notice. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • griffman12griffman12 Member Posts: 18
    Well I thought they solved this problem in 2000. I had a 1999 Deville that was a terrific car except!!! The seats would put your legs to sleep. The bolstering be hind the knees was very hard. Both front seats had the problem. Dealer could not help. Sold it, in the first 6 months. Bought a new Volvo S-80, T-6 Super car and super comfort. Poorest service I have ever encountered. Details are to numerous to list. There were no manuals on this car so I sold it and went back to my old stand by a T & C Van. Fourth one since 1984. Rides like a dream and no problems. It 34 months and 54,000 miles still have lots of tread on the tires and the break pads have about half their lining left. Pulled the wheels and checked them.

  • msazslimmsazslim Member Posts: 1
    Trying to repair wiring for window controls and passenger seat controls. Any help would be great!
  • denshewdenshew Member Posts: 1

    I have a 1993 Sedan deVille with 132,000 miles. Have had it for over 10 years and it has been babied. Just got back from a 600 mile trip to North Carolina. This morning the battery was dead (a 28 month old Optima). Charger indicated it was bad. Replaced it with another battery, now the lights on the inside of the car stay on all the time (like a door is open) and it will not lock the doors when shifting into drive. Starts normal. Have not drove it yet. Disconnected the battery a couple of times and still the same result. Suspect the computer is kaput...advice??.. thanks..ds
  • gokjosgokjos Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1986 Cadillac DeVille V8-252 4.1L with 230k miles on it.

    It runs fine when cold or cool, but stalls when hot (Las Vegas + 10 miles). It will start back up but, stall again until it is allowed to cool about 5-10 minutes. Then it will run for a while. After a stall, the fuel line still have some pressure on the return side.

    Any ideas?

  • cleverlandcleverland Member Posts: 1
    I have a 87 Cadillac Deville V8 4.1 that won't start. I checked if I was getting sparks and I was. Not sure on what I should check next. Any suggestions?
  • richvillerichville Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 1998 Deville NorthStar and once in a while its tends to make a knock sound on right hand turns. Its not a real bad sound but Im just wondering what it could be and if it could get worse? Did you find anything out? Also I was having problems on start up. Sometimes in the morning on a cold start it pops right off, other times it has to roll over several times. I had the fuel rail and fuel line replaced at the dealer and it seemed to help, but it still does it, just not as much. Please get back to me.
  • arizartarizart Member Posts: 1
    I am not sure what your problem is but I have to ask, how did you get 230k miles out of a 4.1? Did you do an engine swap? I have the same car and its really been a challenge to keep running at 95k.
  • beachlady1beachlady1 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to remove the heater Core from a 1995 Cadillac sedan deVille? My husband thinks he has to go through the glove box but isn't sure.Thanks for any help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    He needs to buy the factory workshop manual to tackle a job like that. He'll regret it if he doesn't get the info directly from the factory manual. It'll tell him where all the hidden bolts and clips and more important the sequence of removal. It's a pretty big job, you don't want to go into it blind.
  • cadillacman97cadillacman97 Member Posts: 1
    Check the cig. lighter fuses in the trunk fusebox. and make sure there are no shorted lighters and lighter sockets (coins, gum foil etc.) sounds wild but a bad fuse in lighter can cause a dome light to stay on in those Cadillacs, also optimas can and will test or show bad when they are below 10.5 volts. They are usually still good! good luck!
  • jlwalkerjlwalker Member Posts: 4
    My 99 Deville had a similar problem under the front end. Under warranty; dealer said replaced hose, and I think there was a recall about it.
  • pmetzpmetz Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Deville with 57,000 miles on it. I bought it new and had to have these sensors replaced for the second time. First time under warranty and this time out of pocket repair by cadillac dealer. I am finding out that these sensors were a problem on this year car. Dealer says obviously this is not normal but can do nothing without Cadillac's help. I contacted customer care and filed a complaint but as yet have not heard back. Can anyone shed light on this? I can find no technical service bulletins for this. Did Cadillac provide solution for this and I somehow missed it?
  • rmannrmann Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Concours. I have close to same problem. Was wondering if you could put normal struts on instead of cadillac struts. Price comparison $900 each for cadillac compared to $350 each for normal
  • jspencer1jspencer1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '98 Deville that will not start on an intermittent basis. Sometimes it will start just fine, turn off the engine and turn the key to hear a click like the solenoid. Turn the key several times and nothing but the click. Wait for a period of time, turn the key and fire right up. The battery has a full charge and tight connections. Could it be cables? solenoid going bad? Or the starter going bad? Any insight would be appreciated.
  • avila65avila65 Member Posts: 3
    I'm sorry I don't have an answer to your question, but I have one for you. My father's window is stuck down and he can't get the door panel off. Knows there's something by the handle keeping it on, but can't see anything. Can you tell us how to remove the door panel?
  • will4857will4857 Member Posts: 2
    I am not sure this will work for your father. But, on a few occasions, The driver's side window on my Deville would stick in the down position. The dealer showed me a trick that has so far worked - Hold the window switch in the up position (normally with the left hand) and strike the arm rest sharply with your right fist. Might be worth a try.
  • sshelton007sshelton007 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem on my 99 Seville SLS!

    It doesn't "click" it just won't turn over. I had it towed to a dealership (even though it started 1/2 and hour later) and they couldn't duplicate the problem.

    Did you ever get an answer on this one?
  • lclivelclive Member Posts: 2
    My Deville is overheating. After I start the engine, 3 to 5mins later the water start to boil. I check the oil for water mix. The oil and water is clean. Do you think I need to replace the heads or just change the head gasket.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to say. I'm just speculating here but on a super-fast overheat like that, you are perhaps boiling water with exhaust gases. The head gasket could break between the cylinder and a water galley and so you wouldn't get oil contamination but also the head could crack at the exhaust valve allowing exhaust gases directly into the coolant.

    You can actually have the coolant tested for CO contamination, that would tell you right off. A compression test might not pick it up.

    Have you checked the thermostat, just on a long shot?
  • tcottertcotter Member Posts: 1
    I also have a '98 Deville and I have been recently getting the message "Top Speed - Fuel off" and the engine cuts out. I had it at a dealership in another town since it happened on a trip. Dealer sent it to a local garage. They did the diagnostics and found the the "Throttle speed sensor" had tripped five different times. It tested perfectly, so they cleaned up and leads and I paid them and took my car back for a 300 mile drive home. First the cruise control quit functioning (and anybody who has a solution to this, please write) then that old message started popping up every time I hit 77 or 78 "Top speed - Fuel off" and the engine would cut out, then restart itself a few seconds later. I don't have an owners manual so I cna't look it up. Any advice???

    Dr. Tom Cotter
  • lclivelclive Member Posts: 2
    I took out the thermostat. I tried engine blocked seal . It held for about a month.
    Can I check for contamination myself. If It is contaminated do that mean I need to change the head gasket. Someone told me water maybe leaking into the intake
    manifold. I don't know help please.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No you can't check for CO contamination without the proper tester. If you had water leaking into the oil, your oil would look "milky and gray" when you pulled out the dip stick. There are various tests for a bad head gasket and you probably should have those done by a reputable garage. Solving overheat problems isn't easy sometimes.
  • 98etc98etc Member Posts: 1
    I've been having a problem with my 98 ETC, 76K miles, as well. I have slowly been losing coolant but no leak could be ever found. I have now over heated twice. Pressure builds and it blows out what ever is left through the overflow hose at the top of the resevoir. What has been happening is that a head gasket failure is allowing coolant into the chamber, not the crank case. If it was in the crank case, your oil dip stick would be a little "foamy". That's a sure sign that the coolant is getting in. My problem is coolant is leaking into firing chamber. Question: When you step on it, can white or grey smoke be seen from the exhaust?. You should never see white smoke. You make have a head gasket that is failing. Unfortunately, this is very explensive repair and I'm investing all options. good luck! I'll write again if you respond.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Once again, the cooling system can be tested for combustion gases.
  • bunnyrabbitbunnyrabbit Member Posts: 3
    I'm thinking about buying a 2000 DTS with 53,000 miles. Based on your experience sholud I purchase it?
  • bunnyrabbitbunnyrabbit Member Posts: 3
    Would anyone with experience related to buying used devilles please offer your feedback. I'm thinking about buying a 2000 DTS with 53,000 miles. Based on your experience sholud I purchase it?
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    That sounds like that may be a good buy. But as with any used vehicle, take a competent mechanic along with you to inspect it. I have an '03 Deville DTS that has been an amazing vehicle. These are some of the nicest luxury cars you can buy. At a bargain price. The only major problems you're likely to encounter is because this is a 2000 Northstar you'll likely have a minor oil-burning problem. Figure something like 1/2 quart every 1500-2000 miles. Anything above that is abnormal. Oil-burning is typical of the Northstar engine. I wish it were different, but this a very complex engine that has a lot of moving parts, so it's to be expected. Don't be afraid to buy because of that. I've had a Lexus LS 400, A Infiniti Q45, and a Lincoln T-Car (which is the reason I came back to the American standard Cadillac) and they all had some sort of oil-burn or oil-sludge build-up problem. Other than that, you're likely to have a huge gas bill(or is that just me?) because you are going to love laying into that Northstar just to here it sing. But since this later Northstar runs on regular 87, it'll be a little lighter on your wallet. Finally, if the price is right, jump on it. 5 years old and only 53,000 miles sounds to be a winner.

    P.S. Whatever you do , run a Carfax on it if you don't do anything else. Remember my friend, AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURE.
  • bunnyrabbitbunnyrabbit Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for taking the time to respond Hemi. I'm going to take the plunge. I'll keepyou posted.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    When you take it out on the test drive, drive like you just robbed the bank. Nail the accelerator to the floor and stomp on the brake pedal. I know this sounds a little iffy, but trust me you should do this in order to see if the engine is in fine tune(ie: you should hear absolutely no pinging, rattling) and the brakes should be stable without ANY steering wheel wander and the abs or brake light should not illuminate. The braking system on this car is very expensive, just like any large premium car's system is. I had a friend to buy a '00 Deville DHS and two days later he had to replace 2 calipers 2 rotors, and a whole set of brakes. Grand total for all was $779, and that's with him putting them on himself. If all checks out, you got a winner.
  • rockinrandyrockinrandy Member Posts: 1
    My 90 Caddy DeVille has 200,000 miles and runs great except when it shifts down a gear for acceleration. Then it vibrates and feels like it is only firing on 1/2 the cylinders. Once it reaches cruising speed the car is normal. I have had it to 2 garages and both ran diagnostics that were normal and could not find the problem. Anyone have a clue about my problem? Thanks in advance.
  • joe771476joe771476 Member Posts: 19
    Yeah it's called job security! Get out of the dealerships and go to an independent garage! FAST!
  • joe771476joe771476 Member Posts: 19
    If it cranks but won't start, try a control module which is in the distributor.. The Standard brand ignition numbers run like LX301, LX 315 etc. Go to a parts house and have them look it up.
  • joe771476joe771476 Member Posts: 19
    Join the club! I'm struggling to get this car to 180K with the second engine! Struts went, 3 of the 4 power windows don't work right sometimes, had more brake problems with this 85 Deville than with all my other cars I've owned combined!
  • joe771476joe771476 Member Posts: 19
    Had you been to the dealer prior to these occurrences? If so, they might have tampered with the car. It's just one of the horror stories I've heard. The dealerships make more money in the garage dept. than they do on car sales. The mechanics get paid for fixing cars whether they have something wrong with them or not. He doesn't get paid for standing around! Use dealers ONLY for warranty work and get a work order signed by service manager saying repairs will be made at no cost BEFORE you leave!
  • joe771476joe771476 Member Posts: 19
    Does it turn over, but not catch? Did it die all of a sudden while it was running? It's probably the control module under the rotor in the distributor. It costs $75.00 at NAPA. It's easy to put in. The most important thing when removing the distributor cap is to mark the wires and draw a diagram so you can reattach the wires correctly!
  • joe771476joe771476 Member Posts: 19
    Good question! I had to replace mine at 68,000. I'm struggling at 181,000 to keep this car going but all my Fords got 250,000 with one engine so I'll be damned if I get less with two!
  • kwanlkwanl Member Posts: 2
    I have a same problem with my 94 Cadillac Concourse. Exactly same !!! Please, let me know how to fix this problem when you fix it.
    So far I have replaced the fuel pump, filter, pressure check. They were not the problem..
    Please, I need help..

    Thank you.
  • kwanlkwanl Member Posts: 2
    I have a same problem with my 94 Cadillac concourse(4.6L).
    So far, I have replaced the fuel pump, filter. Pressure check. These are not the problem. Please, let me know if you fix the problem.

    Thank you.
  • jgroatjgroat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 DeVille with over 200000 miles. The car runs and drives great but recently it will occassionally drop in rpms and stall while sitting at idle. There is no pattern to when it happens. After I start it back up I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling again. After a few minutes it's fine again. Also, a few times when I have been driving on the highway the car seems to be trying to stop. It feels like the car has geared down and my foot is off the gas. It will do this for 3 or more seconds and then go back to normal. Are these two completly unrelated problems or the same thing? When I checked the codes I got cranshaft sensor errors as well as traction control. The mechanic at the dealership says he's never heard of these problems and he will have to do diagnostic testing. Can anyone help me out with a little background knowledge about this? I don't trust the dealership here (even more then any other dealership).
  • deblardeblar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 DeVille with 115000 miles that does the exact same thing. That is why I came to this forum. I have tried numerous dealerships and mechanics who cannot figure it out. With mine, it seems to be at a set time during the warmup period. It always happens 2-3 miles into a drive after the car has been sitting for awhile (overnight or for long periods during the day). I have even had it stall out on the freeway at 75 MPH while coasting. If my foot is on the gas, it will "chug" for a second and then its fine. Once you get past this point, it will run great all day.
    If I let it warm up as its pretty cold out now, it will stall about 5 minutes into the warmup. Once I start it again, no problem.
    Does anyone else out there know what these common problems could be? I have had it on the computer, but after changing numerous sensors the problem is still not resolved.
  • ad513ad513 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 STS which I bought from the original owner...I have had the trans. rebuilt; and now my head gasket is leaking coolant into combustion chambers (coolant on plugs) the dealer told me that with 140k miles they would not fix the gasket because it would cause the bottom half to blow...what are my options besides replacing the engine
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The dealer's comment doesn't make sense or you maybe didn't hear it right?

    Maybe what he meant was (if you have the Northstar engine) is that the heads might be warped and Cadillac considers warped heads throw-aways---they generally don't rebuild old cylinder heads. And putting new heads on an old engine might stress out the bottom end of the engine, that's true.

    If you do have the Northstar, don't try to rebuild it---get a new engine from Cadillac. Hopefully you won't need that, but......

    Anyway, if the heads aren't warped or cracked, I don't see why you couldn't replace head gaskets. The problem is, once you open the engine up you have to be prepared for the worst.
  • ruffoloruffolo Member Posts: 3
    Check the stabaliser bar I had similar problem on my 97 STS its inexpensive .
  • devilliandevillian Member Posts: 1
    at about 41 or 42 mph when the car shifts into last gear and you are giving it some gas it starts to cut out and wont go. it stops at about 50 unless u are flooring it. Also just recently the car ONLY when in drive starts going from 625 or 650 rpms to like 700 then down to 575 and it makes a jolt, kind of a shake. other than that the car runs great. any ideas?? would be greatly appreciated.
  • daneslaxdaneslax Member Posts: 1
    Try having a mechanic test your M.A.P. sensor. It's the module that controls the air/fuel ratio for your engine. It could be the reason for the inconsistant RPM's and lack of acceleration. I had a simialr problem with my 86' Mustang and had it fixed for around $300. Let me know how it goes...
  • daviss31daviss31 Member Posts: 1
    I have had this problem with my 1997 Deville. But, I have never gone to a dealer to have them fixed after warranty. It only takes about thirty minutes to change and they cost about 23 bucks at autozone. My suggestion is to check the wiring harness. The reason mine kept going out was the exhaust manifold was melting the wiring. After putting heatrestant tape on them, I've had absolutely no problem.
  • glennoppermanglennopperman Member Posts: 2
    i have plenty of juice in the battery but when i go to start there is nothing. no crank, no clicking, nothing. in fact with the key on, the power antenna goes up and with the key in the start position the power antenna is coming down.
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