Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

rayt2

My L.R. disc rotor was worn to the bone and had metal to metal contact on inside face of rotor when I pulled it apart at my buddies garage. $300 later new rotor, caliper installed and disc pads on both sides. To look from the outside all seemed OK, nice shiny rotor, the damage was all inboard not to be seen with typical brake check. The rotors only had 40k on them when last changed on all 4 wheels.
Now the rocker panel cancer is taking hold spreading like poison ivy. I found 4" wide black duct tape blends in well and covers the 2" x 24" rust hole that is on drivers side and appearing on pasenger side of my General Malfunction rust bucket. Bubbles also showing on passenger side fenders front and rear as the cancer takes hold in that location. Maybe time to buy the plastic fender flare add ons to cover that up. Chevy Junk strikes again.............

hateful_jim

dont feel bad about the rocker panels. My 01 silverado extended cab, with step sides, had both rocker panels on both sides rotted out. Just waiting for it to fall apart.

chuck1

So you had 40K on the brake pads and didn't do a full inspection. If you would have done a full inspection you would have caught the inside pad. In addition, where you live uses salt on the roads, and you have rust. Both of the above items are somehow Chevy's fault?

rayt2

IF YOU READ WHAT I WROTE, there was 40k on rotors from last change. All 4 were changed at 50k because of the junk metal used by GM. They literally were delaminatng. The front rotors had been turned once by dealer at 10k because of warpage, GM said standard procedure they don't replace nor consider it a defect under factory warranty. The rear rotors were within spec.
The disc pads on all 4 wheels had 20k on them from last brake job.
Yes I live in the northeast and roads get salted during winter. I wash the vehicle often during those times in a heated garage so the salt does not hang out long on my truck. The last 3 GM products (all trucks) I owned turned into rust buckets by year 7. All in the same areas they do to this day ie: door bottoms, rocker panels, rear cab corners, fenderwells
Pay attention to what was said before you criticize. Your not related to GM Sarah are ya ??

bikerbuddy

sweetlb said:

I have a 2001 Silverado 1500 4wd with 55,000 miles. The past month or so, when I am coming to a slow stop (under 20 mph), when I touch the brake pedal, it starts to pulsate/shudder and press back towards me. The only thing I can do to stop is to start pumping the brakes repeatedly and hard.
So now, when coming to traffic lights and stop signs, I start braking well before giving myself space.
I’ve already replaced the rear pads and rotors about 12,000 miles ago because of squealing. Bought after market parts from local Autozone.

I took the truck to the local mechanic who said he thinks it’s the speed sensor. When I picked it up, he said “the speed sensor is fine and the computer shows nothing wrong. When it gets worse, bring it back and we’ll put it back on the computer.” Not a very reassuring answer.

Only thing I can think to do is replace the front rotors/pads, but don’t want to waste my money/time if that’s not it.

Any ideas what I should check/replace?

bikerbuddy

Any time you apply your brakes and u feel the pedal is pulsating that is a strong indication that your rotor is warp and it need to be replaced or turn down . no if or but about it .

thecardoc3

That's a classic description of a false ABS activation in sweetlb's comment. Here are some of the tricks to prove which wheel the computer thinks is locking up. Using the factory Tech II scan tool, drive between 3-5mph and watch the wheel speeds. Quite often you will see one (or two) mis-report the vehicle speed from time to time. It may help to take a snapshot of the data and download it to a PC where you can graph it out. Another trick is to watch the control solenoid commands. Whatever isolation and dump valves are reported as being turned on, that's the wheel speed signal that is dropping causing the computer to think the wheel is locking up.

thecardoc3

repsol17 said:

Hello, new to site and hoping for help !
I'm pretty much a DIY guy but I'm currently baffled by something that's never troubled me before, installing brakes. I recently purchased a 95 stepside (excellent shape) from someone who mostly garaged the truck. At the purchase I was informed that there was a "pulling to the left" when ever you stepped on the brakes.

Snip

anyone have any suggestions..would be greatly appreciated
thx

This is a bit of a late response but what usually is occurring when a truck has this symptom is the front brake hoses are being squeezed by the bracket that holds them to the upper control arm. The bracket corrodes, and the corrosion growing on the surface of the bracket pinches the hose shut. On this one the truck pulls to the left when you hit the brakes, that means the RH caliper didn't apply as fast and is the one that is restricted. It's not a fix, but to prove this is what is going on you simply have to spread the bracket out where the hose is being held and take the pressure off of the hose and the truck will then usually brake correctly.

gclemons

chuck1 said:

So you had 40K on the brake pads and didn't do a full inspection. If you would have done a full inspection you would have caught the inside pad. In addition, where you live uses salt on the roads, and you have rust. Both of the above items are somehow Chevy's fault?

gclemons

to sweetb and anyone else having the brake problem where the brake when going slow pushes back and u have pump the brakes again to get them to stop i needed and replaced all lines because they all rusted out calipers rotors and shoes cost me 2000 dollars that seems to be an issue with the 2002 silverado but believe it or not to fix hard brake issue all i had to do was take out a 10 amp brake fuse no more braking problem just annoying abs light so it takes two seconds to try this fix good luck its better than an accident gm should have a safety recall somethings very very wrong here!!!

thecardoc3

That is not how to "fix it".

tkupiec59

I have a 2000 1500 wheel drive silverado. REplaced all the brake lines with ss. Bleed everything out and what happens is the rear brakes are getting really hot, like burn your finger on the rotor hot after moderate driving and the front just get warm. Plus the rear new pads burned out after like 6 thousand miles. Looks like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping. What can cause this? I am verifying the lines are hooked up right to the abs, plus I unplugged the 2 wire connector on the ABS to eliminate it as a problem. Please advise!!

Tom

forresth

Add Fuel line and Transmission oil cooler lines to the rust brigade.

forresth

Had low speed ABS kicking on for no valid reason. Local shop wanted $1500 to replace front shafts because they said there was rust in the reluctors. I replaced the ABS wheel sensors for $86 and the problem went away. BTW the shaft reluctors are fine.

forresth

It is a never ending story. 3 more of the lines that were replaced have rusted through again. Luckily it was in my driveway when the pedal went to the floor. Unfortunately my wife was the one that jumped in to move it for me when the lines failed on her.

downtown_slim1

canayjun64 said:

Hi everyone,

Just like post # 14, my ABS has been kicking in just as I'm about to make a complete stop (on dry surfaces) Thankfully, it won't do this on higher speeds. Before I send my 4WD 2000 Silverado in for repairs, is there something I can do to remedy this? Perhaps a simple sensor replacement?

(FYI)I got the recall done on this about a year ago.

Thanks

had the same problem = dirty wheel speed sensor get dirty inside hubs pull and clean magnetized on the end