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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • Etrexler and Ttaupier1,
    I reported my brake line which failed on my 2003 to the NHTSA about a year ago and recently they have responded asking for more details on the problem. Who knows, maybe something will come of it if more people continue to report the issue.
  • I thought i would follow up to my brake job issue. I ended up replacing - the front calipers, front brake lines, master cylinder, front pads, rear shoes, springs & wheel cylinder and that didn't fix the problem. I called my uncle and explained the situation and he told me to "slam" the brakes a couple of times and then rebleed. I did and that solved the problem. He said that valve gets stuck over a period of time and needs to be "kicked". Now the brakes are better then when I purchased the truck new.
  • I inherited a 1996 chevysilverado 1500 extended cab. The right front brake pads wont release the pressure on the rotor. I have replaced the caliper, but it didn't seem to fix the problem. The left side is fine. Anybody have any other suggestions?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    If the brake hoses to the calipers were not replaced, it might be a good idea to do that. Also look for compression damage to the brake line from a possible previous off-road (or not) debris attack.
  • I had an appointment on 1/30/2010 for a simple LOF,and tire rotation,before I was able to leave the dealership the service manager had me talk to the mechanic that was servicing my truck,at this time he pointed out that the inside brake pad was only using 1/3 of the rotor surface on both rear rotors,I asked him if this was common and I was told only on the 2000-2005 trucks,the repair will cost me $426.00 and he tells me this will happen again in about five years,and GM doesn't know why this occurs,,,this should be a recall item on our braking system as a safety device hazard if you ask me!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Which third of the rotor was the pad in contact with? What did he do for $426.00? Did he explain why it would happen again within 5 years? If he did suspect it to happen again did he use the same parts to correct the problem? and was that why he expects it to happen again?
  • my 2008 2500 Duramax had brake failure twice in the past month. Once backing up the peddle went to the floor and the second time approaching a stop light and the peddle also went to the floor. Unfortunately the truck went through the light and was hit by a car. Fortunately no one was hurt. But a ticket was given to the driver. It wasn't me driving this time. The local GM dealer towed the truck to their shop and tested every componet they could but no failure resulted. Any help out there?
  • It was the inside third of the rotor closest to the hub,I didn't have the dealer fix the problem because they are going to use the same brand replacement parts that will promote the same situation in app. five years according to the mechanic,mind you he was very limited to what info. he would give me,however he claims that GM doesn't know what makes this happen,that is all he would say so he would still have a job!!! I'm getting a couple estimates from neighborhood repair shops and want to see what their professional input will be,I will update my repair status when I get this [non-permissible content removed] resolved.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I have seen the same problem. The rubber hose that runs between the steel line at the frame and the caliper can come apart internally when it gets old. Just replace the hoses, front and rear would be a good idea, and flush the brake fluid to get any reamaing garbage out of the system. On a vehicle this old, not a bad idea to flush the brake system anyway.

    Good luck
  • I have been having brake issues with my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. When I purchases the truck the brakes worked fine, and after about 10,000 miles of driving they started to get bad. I changed out my front rotors and brake pads hoping that would fix them but it hasn't.

    My problem is when I am coming to a complete stop and I brake, the peddle begins to go down, the truck keeps moving slowly, the brakes push down a little further, then I come to a complete stop. It's almost like the peddle goes down, you can feel the brakes being applied, then it feels like the brake crunches and goes down a little further coming to a complete stop. Also when I am turning and braking, sometimes there is a weird grind noise coming from my front rotors.

    I took the truck into the shop, they bled the brake line, adjusted my rear drum brakes, and even put on two new tie rods. They told me they saw NO leaks and everything was ok. After I drove it away, the problem still occurs.

    My thoughts are it might be the a bad master cylinder, or ball joints, but I am not sure why it does this. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED PLEASE!!! I WANT TO GET THIS PROBLEM FIXED!
  • I just changed out my rear brake shoes and rotors. my driver side had a leaking wheel seal. After changing the seal and test driving the truck, the driver side made a chirping noise and became extremely hot, in 20 degrees weather. my conclusion was the caliper was dragging. a machanic friend thought the hose to the caliper was the suspect. after replacing the hose and bleeding the rear brake lines, the dragging brake seems to be fixed. unfortunetly, the wheel seal (new) is still leaking. did the extreme heat from the rotor cause distortion in the seal? I did have to tighten the nut that holds the hub two more full turns. could that be the reason? Anybody got any thoughts?
  • can t seem to get rear brake from dragging, even after replacing pads,rotor, rubber hose, and caliper, and bleeding more than a quart of fluid. Does any one know if theres something I should be doing that I m not?
  • What I would try next would be ABS, look for fuse's controler's or sensor problems. Whatever the case may be you could have a fault somewhere in your ABS system that fools your truck into a "hard braking situation" when in fact you are simply slowing down. From the noises and situations your describing thats what leads me to believe your ABS system could be at fault, and the fact that you bled and replaced pads and rotors there's not much left.
  • Hi Barrail,

    Sounds like the parking brake may need to be repaired or adjusted, if there is a grinding noise and all the "DISC-BRAKE", side seems good. I would be leaning to investigate the back side.. the non visible side or parking brake linkage and springs....

    I have a about 65K miles since my last brake job(130K total on truck)...and need to do a brake job.. I also never use my parking my guess is.. this is the part that may be rubbing and not resetting..

    I also have SSBC/Tri-piston in the rear and notice that the brake pads wear much quicker than the front. The rotor seems fine but the pads definitely see more action than the stock pads. I've not had any issues with anything sounding like rubbing...with the SSBC calipers, however..

    The reason I changed the calipers in the rear to begin with, was my front rotors were warping once a month due to the back calipers, factory one piston disc, were frozen to the slide guide pins, just make sure your rear calipers are not frozen to the guide slider pins that allow the caliper to align on the rotors..

    Hopefully this helps.. let us know what you find..

    Cheers, Ted
  • Hey Airpac,

    wow sounds very close to my original posts, way back when I was having my new truck brake issues.. The rear calipers are junk.. I'm so disappointed with GM on this full size truck issue, for about $1500, at the factory they could have upgraded the brakes to something worth while..

    My truck had the same issue, and GM mechanics have know about the issue and the TSB for some time, maybe the problem its so old now none of the new mechanics are even trained on it.. search my name and look for my earlier post's i describe this problem and the issue that GM knows they have..

    Basically.. the rear calipers freeze on their slider guide pins and then the caliper can not grab the rotor...
  • Hi ttaupier1 thanks for the response. drivers side rear brake has a new rotor,caliper, and flex rubber hose to the caliper. a new wheel seal that has been a constant nuisance. the original had failed and the first replacement also leaked between the inner seals. so i about to reinstall the second replacement seal. As far as the brakes are concerned, the
    e-brake was backed off all the way so as to eliminate any confusion about brake adjustment. what I hope is the solution is that some how (1) to much grease on the caliper bolts, (2) bled the rear brakes incorrectly and I hope this is the solution. Heading back out to reinstall the new seal and take it for a testdrive, hope it works.
  • I think the brake problem is solved. the wheel seal, only time will tell. stay tuned.
  • front left wheel started squeling on this mornings roadtest. After returning to the garage, realized front brake rotors were shot. $216.00 later, new rotors and pads are installed. after the road test, squeling still there.
    i noticed while i had the rotor off, the the spindle was pretty woblly.
    hey ted, have you ever had the front knuckle apart? it seems pretty straight forward.any tips or cautions would be appreciateld. also after bleeding all the brake lines again, I dont have a great pedal. Has it become obvious that I dont do this very often. any suggestions would be welcome.
  • mooseyemooseye Posts: 2
    I don't see how they can call this a regional problem. My truck has faulty anti-lock breaks and also the rusted brake lines. I am pretty sure the truck came from up north somewhere but I now own it in Tennessee. And guess what? The problem did not magically disappear when the truck was resold in TN.
    Why should some owners be burdened with the cost of repair and some not?
    Why is this real safety problem not addressed? Is Toyota's problem bigger?
    Do I have to have a break failure and run over a lady with a baby for it to be a recognized problem in all states?
  • tcbusatcbusa Posts: 4
    I have an 08'sierra sle crewcab & recently noticed a pulseing feel@ the pedal when braking from about 40mph to 0.It as if the abs system is operating without cause.Left frt.rotor is slightly grooved,24,000k.Anyone else having same issue on 08 model.Thank's tcbusa959
  • annmacannmac Posts: 1
  • jdio121jdio121 Posts: 1
    i bought a 09 silverado LT 1500 ext 4x4 w/rear drums and out of the blue 3000miles my brakes started pulsating good at hard stop as well as slightly at slow speeds(doesn't feel like abs tripping) i took the rotors and had them cut, re-installed and made no difference. im taking it to dealer this week regardless, but the only thing that makes sense is rear drums,brakes? anybody else have this issue?
  • duke30duke30 Posts: 2
    86,000 kms on my truck on my second set of pads this year will soon have to replace my rotors i put on six months ago. Front disc grab and stick on occasionally and can smell burning in cab.I have had it to several garages tell me they cannot find problem.I replaced calipers anyway and pins are clean and new.Seems to be worse on passenger side,braking hardest. Anyone have any ideas?
  • chomp1974chomp1974 Posts: 7
    edited April 2010
    I recently changed the front pass wheel bearing hub assembly 2001 Silverado 4x4 and now everytime I go to use the brakes the ABS is kicking in making it actually hard to stop. No ABS light coming on or other problems noted. I have removed the ABS fuse and everything is back to normal but technically there is no ABS capabilities right now. I was surprised that the ABS light has not come on on the instrument panel---PUZZELED--anybody come across this?????? I personally do not like ABS anyway.
  • edb3163edb3163 Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 1500 crew cab, recently i installed 22" wheels and tires. Since i put these wheels on the front end shakes and vibrates. I have replaced rotors and pads on the front, and still the front end vibrates. I have drums on the rear and was gonna replace them next to see if it made a difference. I stumbled on this site and figured I would inquire before I do any further repairs/mods that will cost me more money. Could someone help me determine what my next move should be?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    I am from GM Customer Service. I would recommend taking it to the dealership to have the concern diagnosed. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Since the change was adding the wheels and tires, have a tire shop with the appropriate equipment check that the wheel/tire assembly is balance and true.
    If the front and rear are the same size, see if rotating them makes the problem move.
  • stutsstuts Posts: 2
    just bought used gmc z71 sierra and found abs fuse pulled. well i replaced it wow talk about affecting braking almost hit someone and pulled fuse immediatly.been doing some research 700.00 to replace unit . is it worth it ? does it affect four wheel drive wheel sensoring . can just the electronics be repaired or does the whole unit have to be replaced? please help! maybe a pulled fuse is the only answer will say the location of ehcu is poor at best hoo ray for our engineers in design 101
  • edb3163edb3163 Posts: 2
    I replaced the tires, computer balanced them. The vibration got better but still there. Could it be the rotors? wheel bearings? What else could it be?
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